Elsie Green Vintage Home Decor Comes to Sebastopol

A visit to reseller and retailer Elsie Green’s new store in Sebastopol’s Barlow is a master class in housewares curation and home design.

The new location, the first addition to the brand’s successful Concord store, offers what one might expect from a purveyor of French vintage finds, but Elsie Green takes everything a beautiful step further.

Why get comfy in the proven chicness of all-white 30-foot walls of the Barlow’s retail spaces, when you can coat just one wall in a deep teal and witness customers’ dropping of jaws at entering?

And why dismiss ticking as an outdated, overdone attempt at nostalgia, when you can cover a vintage couch in it, put a modern raw-edge wood end table beside it and make customers feel they suddenly have to have ticking?

Elsie Green has all that plus glimmering oversized copper pots, silverware, earthenware and more – all vintage. Add in stemless cylindrical wine glasses, new, from Morocco and then ask yourself, “How did Elsie do that?”

According to marketing director Kelsey Schmidt, Elsie Green’s team travels to France quarterly and ships several containers of coveted flea market wares back to the Bay Area. The vintage treasures then find a new home in Elsie Green’s Concord and Sebastopol stores. Equipped with a curator’s eye for unique finds, Elsie Green founder Laurie Furber, nee Cain, (LC, get it?), is the mastermind behind the operation, able to identify the needle in every haystack (or warehouse). 

Furber’s talent is backed by an education in art history and years as an executive for a major home design retailer. Along with husband, JP, a veteran of retail merchandising, Furber identified a “dead space in the market for sustainable design and vintage goods,” said Schmidt.

Furber was set to share her idea with her then employer, but made the decision to leave her post and branch out on her own. Two stores and twenty-five thousand Instagram followers later, Elsie Green is carving out her own little corner in the design world.

“What’s more green than not buying something new?” said Schmidt of the store which has a stock she estimates is ninety percent vintage.

From the call to be green, Elsie Green solves a design puzzle that re-imagines those vintage items in a new look. Brass candlesticks, a mainstay of many antique stores, are reborn at Elsie Green assembled in a collection against a smoky brown wall.

In this way, Elsie Green manages to achieve a contemporary, somewhat minimalist aesthetic, but interestingly, through using unique, older pieces. And there’s something about this mix of old and new that seems so very now.

Elsie Green, Open Monday-Sunday 10am-6pm, The Barlow, 6770 McKinley Street #140, Sebastopol, 707-634 0333, elsiegreen.com

Adelle Stoll Opens Storefront Studio in Sebastopol

The Adele Stoll handbag, home decor and jewelry line, produced only in Sonoma County, is made up of modernist style pieces, in shapes and configurations that are a beautiful mix of innovation and simplicity.

In fact, the look is so high-style, you might envision the designer to be some fussy artisan or fashion world stereotype of sternness and snobbery. But Adelle Stoll the person, who is present in her new Sebastopol storefront-slash-studio at the Barlow, is welcoming and engaging and happy to discuss her design and fabrication process.

Stoll’s resumé includes many roles in retail, real estate and design. Her conversation and lively manner of buzzing around her products and desk—on which swaths of fabric for new projects are spread out—make one thing very clear: she is passionate about what she does.

The small but airy Sebastopol storefront, with the signature Barlow-chic rolling door, has numerous items on display including pillows with angular cut-outs, modernist leather necklaces, purses in multiple shapes, and linen modern frocks by other local makers.

The design ingenuity prompted this shopping writer to ask if one of the pillows had foam core adornments on top. “Girl,” Stoll said, “that’s leather!”

Stoll takes her materials very seriously. Her leather is sourced in the U.S. and her felt is a German-made “filz,” upcycled from a New York company that provides decorative soundproofing panels to well-designed spaces. Stoll buys the remnants in as many colors as available, which provides a great intersection of inspiration, affordability and sustainability.

“I design on the daily,” she says. The move to the studio sales space has helped Stoll get her material out of her house. She calls herself a “messy minimalist” and says her kids have had to ask her to move the leather off the couch so they could watch a movie.

Stoll says she hopes to expand her manufacturing and design work to include the mentoring of at-risk youth. Stoll, herself a reluctant student and self-proclaimed late bloomer, says she’d like to help artistically inclined kids monetize their talents.

Stoll says it’s been a “long road” to get where she’s able to do the work she feels she’s meant to do. Previously owning a retail shop, selling her line in other stores, and years of working “a J-O-B” as she calls it, helped set her up with the shop she’s in today. She attributes this path to her “being scrappy,” a trait she wants to pass on to other aspiring creatives.

Adelle Stoll, 6780 McKinley St #140, Sebastopol, 707-291-4484, adellestoll.com

A High School Rugby Team Triumphs by Defying the Divides That Shape Santa Rosa

The Lobo Rugby Club in a scrum during a game against Santa Rosa High held at Elsie Allen Friday evening. March 25, 2017. (Photo: Erik Castro/for The Press Democrat)

Alan Petty was irritated.

He was watching his rugby squad run a passing drill at Elsie Allen High School in February last year, and in his studied opinion, the ball was hitting the ground far too frequently. This was not the mark of the storied program Petty has built here over two decades and against all odds — a foreign-born sport anchored by student-athletes from diverse backgrounds at a campus that draws from one of Santa Rosa’s poorest neighborhoods.

“Seven drops is loser shit!” Petty boomed. “When one person drops the ball, we all drop the ball. Be perfect or get lost.”

Petty is a tall, sturdy, stoop-shouldered man with a graying goatee. A former collegiate rugby player at Long Beach State and Cal, he has led the Elsie Allen squad to 11 league championships and two state titles. He commands respect on the field, and usually carries himself with a quiet calm. So when Petty blows steam, his athletes pay attention.

Seeing one lazy pass too many, he ordered his players to perform a dance of thigh-burning lunges. And so, as lanky cross-country runners from an exclusive private academy across town circled their track, the Lobos lunged.

Lobos Rugby Club doesn’t look like most other school teams in Sonoma County, and not just because of the wide range of body types. The fluid roster of some 30 kids is composed of boys from well-to-do households, first-generation Mexican immigrants from the neighborhood, a few black and Asian students, and, most notably, a large contingent of Pacific Islanders, for whom the sport has deep cultural roots.

When families come to watch games at Elmer Brown Field on the Elsie Allen campus, it’s one of the few settings in Wine Country where you can expect vineyard workers, cops, and corporate executives to mix freely and casually.

The boys on the squad don’t seem to dwell on such things, at least when they are on the field. During their practice, much of their banter was predictably irreverent. “Someone tell me why Osei smells like perfume?” one of them said with an eye roll, needling teammate Dominic “Osei” Walker, a freshman at the time. But even here, one thing was clear. There is no social hierarchy on this field. Petty and his assistant coaches push everyone equally.

“You can come from any background, come to rugby, and nobody cares where you’re from,” said Jaden Groesbeck, the ginger-haired son of a health care executive. Last year, he was a junior at Maria Carrillo High School, another public campus across town that draws from a wealthier area of eastern Santa Rosa. “They don’t judge you. Which is really cool.”

The players of Lobos Rugby don’t enjoy the glory that is showered upon most high school football and basketball teams. Their games are sparsely attended and rarely chronicled in local media. But Elsie Allen rugby has become important, even iconic, to those who come through the program. Petty and his team have established a proud bloodline and a culture of excellence, defying the deep socio-economic divides that shape Santa Rosa.

“I always tell everybody I have two families,” said Manny Leighton, who lived in Napa but had joined the Lobos for his senior season. “Even though it’s my first year, I tell them when we’re down, ‘We have 20 years of tradition that we have to make up for right now. Twenty years of guys who played before us. Come on, let’s go.’”

Petaluma High Junior Luke Haggard, 17, warming up before a Lobo Rugby Club game against Santa Rosa High held at Elsie Allen High School Friday evening. March 25, 2017. (Photo: Erik Castro/for The Press Democrat)
Luke Haggard warms up before a Lobos Rugby game. Haggard is a student at Petaluma High but, like many Lobos Rugby players, commutes to Elsie Allen. (Photo by Erik Castro)

In the front-office lobby of the Elsie Allen campus in southwestern Santa Rosa hang 50 flags from countries across the world, representing the home nations of the school’s roughly 1,100 students and their families. More than 60 percent of the student body is Latino, but the administration translates its parent forms into 11 languages.

“I have some classes where there’s not one white kid,” said Petty, 52, who teaches history at Elsie Allen and lives in eastern Santa Rosa. “Then I go to church in Rincon Valley and everyone is white. A lot of people who live next to you would never cross 101.”

That’s Highway 101, the north-south axis that splits Santa Rosa and has long demarcated a line between the city’s more affluent and politically powerful neighborhoods on the eastern side and less wealthy, more ethnically diverse areas to the west. One clear metric of division: No member of the Santa Rosa City Council for at least a generation has lived anywhere near Elsie’s base south of Roseland, a predominantly Latino neighborhood, though that could change later this year under Santa Rosa’s new system of district elections.

The Elsie Allen campus is lovely, with clean, modern classrooms surrounded by playing fields that give way to pastureland. Elsie features a state-of-the-art Performing Arts Center, a laptop computer lab, and honors and Advanced Placement classes across an array of subjects. The arts program has won honors from Congress, while one-act plays developed through the school’s drama program were performed at the Edinburgh Fringe Festival in Scotland in 2011. The Elsie Allen Drum Line is fire.

The school has developed innovative academic programs, too. The University Center on campus connects qualified kids with classes at Sonoma State University. The Elsie Allen High School Foundation, whose board includes La Tortilla Factory co-founder Willie Tamayo, awards about $100,000 worth of scholarships every year to deserving students with financial need.

And yet Elsie Allen has frequently been the school that families want to leave. A chart supplied by Santa Rosa City Schools shows that in the current academic year, 170 students living in Elsie Allen’s designated area filed requests to attend other high schools. In the other direction, five students requested to leave their own schools of residence and attend Elsie Allen.

Principal Mary Gail Stablein noted that Santa Rosa City Schools has tightened its standards for open-enrollment transfers, and that her school retained year.

“But it has happened,” Stablein said. “I think that’s definitely something that’s pretty common knowledge.” This flight only deepens the socio-economic imbalances in the city. Elsie Allen has a far higher share of low-income students and non-English speakers than the other four public high schools in Santa Rosa. One out of every five students at the campus is an English-language learner, according to Stablein, though the state puts that number closer to one out of every three students. Up to 90 percent of Elsie students receive free or reduced-cost lunch, and the state’s Department of Education puts the proportion of socio-economically disadvantaged students attending Elsie Allen at 82 percent.

At Maria Carrillo, the corresponding figures are 5 percent Englishlanguage learners and 18.4 percent socio-economically disadvantaged.

The poverty that surrounds the Elsie Allen campus casts its own shadow, including violence that even the rugby squad hasn’t escaped. Petty said he has buried 27 students and rugby players during his 22 years at the school.

The sports stadium, at the south end of campus off Bellevue Avenue, sits less than a mile from the vacant lot where, in 2013, 13-year-old Andy Lopez was fatally shot by a Sonoma County sheriff’s deputy — a tragedy that somehow is less unthinkable here than it might be in other parts of town.

Many of the Lobos players come from families with little disposable income. Many struggle in the classroom, and too many have lost loved ones to addiction or jail. They are teenagers that the wider community could easily dismiss.

But the kids reject this portrayal. Lobos Rugby has taught them that it isn’t always the boys with the expensive cars who win the games; that you can be great at something even if you’ve been told a hundred times that you’ll never amount to anything; that if you have been disappointed by or even abandoned by adults in the past, it isn’t going to happen on this field, on this campus.

“The good teachers here don’t leave at 3,” said Dan Bartholome, Petty’s top assistant coach and a math teacher at Elsie Allen.

Lobo Rugby Club players during a playoff game against Center Parkway Harlequins from Sacramento held at Elsie Allen High School in Santa Rosa. April 28, 2017. (Photo: Erik Castro/for The Press Democrat)
Lobos Rugby players during a playoff game against Sacramento team Center Parkway Harlequins. (Photo by Erik Castro)

In the Elsie Allen gym, there are no banners celebrating the achievements of Lobos Rugby. That’s because it is a club team, outside the governance of the California Interscholastic Federation, which oversees 19 official high school sports.

As a club team, the Lobos are never composed entirely of Elsie Allen students. In the last full season, when the squad allowed Sonoma magazine to tag along for a few months, the team actually had a minority of Elsie kids. The rest came from other neighborhoods in Santa Rosa, from Sebastopol, from Petaluma, even from Napa, 40 miles away.

But don’t let the lack of banners fool you. Since Petty founded the program 21 years ago, the Lobos have claimed two state championships, finishing runner-up on another occasion. Three times, they have qualified for the national championships.

“We have won a couple of hundred games,” Petty said, nonchalantly. “I quit counting at 100.” That was in 2004.

This makes the rugby team an anomaly at Elsie Allen. With a few notable exceptions, like boys’ soccer and boys’ basketball, the Lobos athletic programs are perpetually overmatched. Neither the football team nor the softball team (as of this writing) has won a league game since 2005, the girls’ basketball team since 2011. The baseball team went 6-131 in league play from 2007 to 2017, according to sports clearinghouse MaxPreps.com.

This is not a failing of Elsie Allen coaches or the result of any shortfall in athletic potential. To a large extent, it’s another symptom of the emigration that has undercut the school and helped drive the success of others.

Intra-district transfers aren’t supposed to be based on sports opportunities. But in reality, many kids move because they want to play for a better basketball or soccer team. It creates a vicious cycle for Elsie Allen.

A Lobos baseball coach once described a scene he said was common at home games. Players from Montgomery High, on Santa Rosa’s east side, would arrive at Elsie Allen by bus. They’d play the game, Montgomery would win, and two-thirds of the players would get back on the bus for the return trip. The other third would simply disperse to their houses in the Elsie neighborhood.

“The big issue is keeping kids from trashing our school,” Petty said. “If we can keep kids in our district, we’ll be fine.”

So the rugby team’s success stands out. Just as boys in Cardinal Newman High School families dream of playing football and girls in Rincon Valley aspire to play soccer at Maria Carrillo, a lot of boys in south Santa Rosa look forward to digging in on the Elsie rugby field.

Lobo Rugby Club players during their Lobo yell during a playoff game against Center Parkway Harlequins from Sacramento held at Elsie Allen High School in Santa Rosa. April 28, 2017. (Photo: Erik Castro/for The Press Democrat)
Lobo Rugby Club players doing their “Lobo yell” during a playoff game against Center Parkway Harlequins from Sacramento. (Photo by Erik Castro)

Inside Petty’s classroom, a wall is lined with 11 rugby balls, 10 of them covered in signatures. They represent the Lobos’ 11 league championships. The classroom is where Petty checks in with his athletes, goes over strategy, reminds them of team guidelines, and nags about missing paperwork.

On an afternoon in late March 2017, the coach had good news. The Lobos had been accepted to play at the Boys High School Rugby National Championships in Kansas City, Missouri, in May. Elsie Allen would be going up against the top teenage competition in the country. It was a huge accomplishment, and the boys greeted it with roars and backslaps.

Much of Petty’s message that day was devoted to rules for the trip to Kansas City. “If I catch you with alcohol, I will send you home,” Petty said. “I will buy a one-way ticket and put you on a plane.”

It would be the first flight for many of the players, and for some their first time out of California. The team, Petty said, would travel as a group in blue blazers, white shirts, and khaki slacks. (Weeks later, as they embarked at San Francisco International Airport, a pilot would notice them, invite them to pre-board, and give them a shout-out over the intercom.) The number of kids bound for Kansas City, Petty added, would necessarily depend on how much money they raised. He hoped to take 26, and would base the final roster on attendance and effort. Some players would be left behind.

As a club team, the Lobos pay their own expenses, excluding a few small outside donations. Every player on the roster had already ponied up a $250 participation fee for the season. It’s a considerable sum for many of these kids. When Daniel Nguyen started playing as a sophomore, he knew his parents, Vietnamese immigrants, would be wary. So he asked them for $10 for a meal here, $15 for a book there, and squirreled it away for rugby.

“At first, I had to be a little more surreptitious,” Nguyen said. “I’d contribute a few dollars each week and try to be a little sneaky about it. That worked for the first year of me playing rugby. Afterward, I thought it would be a better idea to just come out with it.”

This self-supported program couldn’t exist without constant shepherding by the coaches. It starts with Petty, a tough-love coach who has extensive ties to collegiate rugby programs. He is regarded as the dean of Bay Area high school rugby, and is the longest-tenured coach in California.

Bartholome, 58, his chief assistant, is a retired Santa Rosa cop who got into teaching as a second career. Petty reveres him. He tells a story about an Elsie Allen kid who developed an infection and went into sepsis, which can be fatal. The parents were too strung out on drugs to help, so Bartholome spent two hours in the boy’s hospital room every single day. “He didn’t tell me for two weeks,” Petty said.

The Lobos have other seasoned assistants and also get contributions from Mick Harrison, a physical trainer originally from New Zealand — a rugby hotbed — who helps out once a week for no charge. Dr. John Tomasin, a Healdsburg orthopedist who played rugby at UC Davis, has treated players with no insurance for at least 20 years, a donation of care that piles up as the injuries come every season. His nephew, Stephen Tomasin, was a high school football star at Cardinal Newman, the local Catholic sports powerhouse, who transitioned to rugby and very nearly made the U.S. Olympic team in 2016.

“I don’t think he can be complimented enough,” John Tomasin said of Petty. “Elsie Allen doesn’t have a lot of positives that come out of it. Other athletic programs there don’t do well, and rugby is something they can be proud of.”

Petty had one more rule for his players in Kansas City. Should the Lobos pull off an upset and win the national championship, they’d have to stay up all night and celebrate.

“It’s the most amazing feeling in life,” he told the boys. “I’ve had three kids. That’s cool. You wake up the next day, and it’s awesome, but it’s not the same. It will never feel like it does that night. So stay up all night and hang out with your friends.”

Rancho Cotati High School Junior Epi Feoko, 16, during Lobo Rugby Club practice at Elsie Allen High School in Santa Rosa, California. March 2, 2017. (Photo: Erik Castro/for The Press Democrat)
“The bond you have on and off the field. It’s a special thing.” Rancho Cotati High School Junior Epi Feoko, a Lobos Rugby player, originally from Fiji. (Photo by Erik Castro)

It was a practice in late March, and Petty and Bartholome were not in attendance. They had given the keys to a young assistant, Leroy Lam. On some high school sports teams, that would trigger a mutiny. And there was some grab-ass on the Elsie field, but for the most part kids remained attentive.

The day’s drill was centered on the scrum machine, a neo-medieval- looking contraption that might have been borrowed from a Mad Max set. It’s a heavy skid of various levers and pads that players were trying to move through the mud of a wet North Bay spring. The boys dug in their cleats, set, grunted, heaved — and moved the scrum machine a couple inches at most.

Lam guided the drill and offered instruction as experienced players pulled younger kids aside to explain the finer points. One, Luke Haggard, a junior at the time, beckoned two teammates. “Lap and talk, lap and talk,” he said, before leading them in a tight circle around the drill to quietly hash out a flaw.

Captured in a casual moment, the Lobos’ makeup was striking. Bartholome recalled a game against a team from Indiana a few years ago: “The Indiana parents were pissed because they were losing to ‘these little Mexican kids.’” Athletes from Latino families are stalwarts of Lobos squads, with agility, speed, and footwork often taken from years on the soccer pitch.

But Islanders make up another sizable block of players. Rugby is the dominant sport in Polynesia and Melanesia. For kids in places like Fiji, Tonga, and Samoa, it can mean a rare chance to attend college abroad. “Rugby is everything in Fiji,” said one standout player, Josh Kauvesi, whose uncle has managed the Fijian national team.

That fervor has been transplanted to California, and especially to the North Bay. Nothing cures homesickness like a game of rugby.

The Islanders are among the best players on the team. At times last season the starting lineup featured an all-Fijian back line. They can be massive, as you might expect if you’re a fan of NFL football, where Samoans have become staples of the offensive and defensive lines. But there is more to Island rugby than size.

Osei Walker called Fijians the “kings of flair.” As an example, he pointed to teammate Epi Feoko, a Rancho Cotate High student with a chipped-tooth smile and gravity-defying hair. On-target passing is a huge element in rugby, but Feoko’s passing isn’t just accurate. It’s beautiful and inventive. Using a ball that resembles a large watermelon, he somehow plays rugby like Stephen Curry plays basketball. Feoko passes over his shoulder and behind his back. He passes left while looking right. He passes after going airborne, and right before absorbing a bone-rattling hit. And his style is infectious.

“Epi joined the team,” Bartholome said, “and within a few hours, all of our kids were Fijian.”

Feoko, now 18 and a senior, came to the United States, and to Sonoma County, when he was 15. On his first day here, he drove by Elsie Allen with his dad and saw a team practicing. He thought it was football at first. When he realized they were playing rugby, he was overjoyed.

“It’s like getting ready for Christmas. I can’t wait to play,” Feoko said. When he was young he practiced by himself, passing to imaginary teammates. Now his ties to those on the field have deepened his love of the sport. “The bond you have on and off the field. It’s a special thing.”

The true wealth of diversity in this program is its mosaic of personality and circumstance.

Few high school activities could so smoothly mix kids like Manny Leighton, who was holding down two after-school jobs in Napa last year (CVS and the toney Meadowood Napa Valley resort, where he was a server); Jaden Groesbeck, a Mormon boy who sings bass in the Maria Carrillo choir; and Rashawn Miles, now a Montgomery High sophomore, a gentle, burly African-American kid who wants to be an engineer, and whose single mother juggles college classes and social work to keep them in their Santa Rosa apartment.

As a club sport, Petty’s team is not subject to CIF grade standards, and some of the Lobos Rugby players last season were barely hanging on academically. Not so for Nguyen, the Vietnamese-American teen whose parents didn’t want him to play. His father works in a factory. His mother is a tailor. They live near Elsie Allen and are of modest means. But Daniel is a classroom superhero with boundless curiosity and energy. He applied to 27 colleges and eventually settled on Harvard, where he is now enrolled. Nguyen called the rugby pitch his “safe haven,” a place where he can unclutter his mind.

Then there’s Thorton McKay, who on some teams might be regarded simply as a mascot. McKay has a troubled background that his guardians want to safeguard and he currently lives in foster care. In his thoughts and actions, everything about Big Thor is just a little different. When the team goes through “burpee” exercises on the field, he inadvertently adds an extra step to the up-down-up motion, yet still cranks out as many as anyone else.

McKay showed up to one parent meeting wearing a purple velvet suit and a bow tie. He knows what it’s like to be an outsider. It’s not something he has to worry about with his rugby teammates.

“They let me feel a certain dignity and self-respect for myself,” he

Lobo Rugby Club players getting a talk from Head Couch Alan Petty after a tough playoff game loss against Center Parkway Harlequins from Sacramento held at Elsie Allen High School in Santa Rosa. April 28, 2017. (Photo: Erik Castro/for The Press Democrat)
Lobos Rugby players getting a talk from Head Couch Alan Petty after a tough playoff game loss against Center Parkway Harlequins from Sacramento held at Elsie Allen High School in Santa Rosa. (Photo by Erik Castro)

At a playoff game at Elsie Allen in late April last year, perhaps 50 fans sat in the bleachers for a showdown against the Sacramento Harlequins. Elmer Brown Field, Elsie’s home turf, is a local rarity — an all-weather field marked for rugby. It was chilly by late afternoon, and a sliver of moon hung over the field like an arched eyebrow.

The Lobos were stronger, both physically and fundamentally. The Harlequins, made up primarily of Islanders, were repeatedly whistled for forward passes, a rugby no-no. But the Sacramento team used its exceptional speed as an equalizer.

“I’ve never seen us miss so many tackles,” Petty said to no one in particular.

Most American sports fans would use football as a reference point when watching rugby. In both games, there is throwing, catching, tackling, and running over the goal line. It’s the differences you notice, though. The ball has a similar shape, but appears to have been pumped with too much air. And except for brief interludes that follow scoring plays, the activity is continuous in rugby. This relentless motion is one of the things players say they love about the game.

The action is often frenetic, alternating between full-out sprints off of lateral pitches, and intense closed-space grappling. In the mystifying rugby scrum, teams cluster in interlocking masses and strain one against the other. Not much visibly occurs, and then someone will plop the ball on the ground behind the scrum; another player picks it up and runs, gets tackled, and the whole thing starts over.

Players don’t wear helmets or plastic pads in rugby, so everyone leaves the field with bruises, and there are bloody noses and sometimes separated shoulders. And, yes, the occasional concussion. But the lower speed of the contact, and the absence of weaponized helmets, has spared rugby of the existential crisis that currently plagues football. Some even think it can be an alternative.

With a little under 17 minutes to play last April, Pita Mataau scored for the Lobos to put them ahead 23-22. The visitors rallied and regained the lead, 27-23, with 11 minutes remaining. The Lobos needed an answer, but it wasn’t to be. Sacramento scored twice more, both on long runs, and won 37-23.

The loss did not signal the end of the Lobos’ season, but they were downcast. Taking it hardest of all was Leighton, the Napa boy. He had quit his high school rugby team after playing against Elsie Allen and seeing the camaraderie with which the Lobos played.

His dedication ran so deep that even when Wine Country roads were flooded during last year’s historically wet winter, he followed the detours and made it to every practice. “It, like, crushes my heart to see that a lot of guys didn’t put in enough effort,” Leighton said, explaining why he left Napa for Elsie Allen.

After losing to Sacramento, his heart looked crushed again.

The Elsie players shrugged it off. There was a handshake line after the contest, and it felt less pro forma than what you might have seen at a hundred high school football games.

Petty addressed his players, and both squads assembled at midfield, where the coaches formally complimented their opponents. Then two captains from each side took turns singling out kids from the opposing team for praise, explaining what earned their admiration.

Finally, the two rivals, having pounded one another for 60 minutes, trudged to the snack bar area and mingled. The home team was grilling dinner for the visitors.

Elsie Allen Junior Kevin Fisiiahi-Thomayer, 16, during Lobo Rugby Club practice at Elsie Allen High School in Santa Rosa, California. February 28, 2017. (Photo: Erik Castro/for The Press Democrat)
Elsie Allen Junior Kevin Fisiiahi-Thomayer, 16, during Lobos Rugby Club practice at Elsie Allen High School in Santa Rosa. (Photo by Erik Castro)

The Lobos’ 2016-17 season came to a close last year without the storybook ending. They lost the third-place game in the Northern California playoffs in early May, falling to SacPAL, another Sacramento team, on a field in Stockton. Handed a low seed at nationals a couple weeks later, they had to open the tournament against the No. 1 seed in their division, Fort Hunt of Virginia. The Santa Rosa boys played well but lost 40-15. A slim 18-17 loss to the Kansas City Blues preceded their last match for the season, an exciting 38-34 win over West End, also from Virginia.

The current season started in the wake of the fires that raged through Wine Country in early October. No one on the team lost their home, though it was touch-and-go for Bartholome, the assistant coach who lives in Larkfield.

The morning after the fires erupted, Elsie Allen was used as an evacuation center, and “a bunch of former ruggers,” as Petty put it, showed up to attend to senior citizens who had fled Oakmont of Villa Capri, a senior memory care facility in Fountaingrove that burned to the ground.

With a high percentage of returning players, the 2017-18 team has fared better in its early matches, establishing a 10-3 record by late March, with the only losses coming to opponents who were headed to nationals.

Every Lobos season, no matter the success, comes to a close with a team banquet, and the 2017 squad held its party last May at Bethlehem Lutheran Church in east Santa Rosa. There were introductions, speeches, proud parents, and giant pans of pasta and green salad.

Petty’s gift to each player was a team photo. “To remind you why you play,” he said.

The coaches gave short tributes to each player. Petty recalled how senior Augie Buschman had injured himself during a game, yet managed to lunge for a ball carrier even as he lay on the ground. Bartholome described freshman Jamesa Rogoimuri, so polite that he raised his hand in the back seat during a long drive to an away game, asking meekly if they could stop to pee.

It was perfectly normal night in high school athletics that still offered glimpses of what makes rugby special and Lobos Rugby unique.

Foremost is the atmosphere of respect — for teammates, staff, family, and opponents. It’s an ethic that seems to be woven into the sport, and it lends a solemnity to a game played by teenagers.

“(Playing football) at Carrillo, we had some leaders that were kind of full of themselves and prideful,” Groesbeck said. “So when the person next to them messed up, they’d get down on them, like, ‘What are you doing?’ We don’t say that here. It’s like, ‘Get ’em next time.’ That’s the difference in rugby. People don’t tear each other down, they pick each other up.”

And the boost can be lasting. Petty spoke of Tyler Ahlborn, a member of his first Lobos team who lugged a 0.3 GPA to the program —lower than a D average.

Ahlborn fell in love with rugby, improved his school attendance, graduated, enrolled at Santa Rosa Junior College, and went on to UC Davis. He now teaches at Midrose High School, an alternative school that shares the Elsie Allen campus.

Petty later shared a letter that he calls one of his most cherished possessions. It was written to him in 2010 by Roberto Aguilar, who at the time was a U.S. Marine deployed in Iraq. Aguilar was scheduled to come home. But the corps had asked for volunteers for a tour in Afghanistan, and he had signed up.

Aguilar had come to Elsie Allen nearly a decade earlier as a wild, directionless boy. Now 30, he has a wife, two children, a steady job and an EMT certification. Aguilar credited the influence of Petty, and of Elsie sports.

“It was you that kept me and my closest friends from serving 15-25 years, or ending up 6 feet below,” Aguilar wrote in the letter. “Teaching us rugby and football kept us from ending up like some of the kids that I have read about on The Press Democrat online.

“I guess it’s why I feel like I need to go to Afghanistan. You know that when my brothers need me to stand next to them at their time of need, I cannot say no. Whether it is on the field, on the streets, or on the Hindu-Kush mountains of Afghanistan, I cannot say no.

“Part of me would not be able to ever look you in the eye, knowing that I walked away and did nothing when my brothers needed me the most.”

The message was clear: The bonds don’t fray here. The lessons are remembered, even as one year of rugby bleeds into the next. The sport can’t miraculously save these kids, but it can give them some of the tools that will allow them to save themselves.

And behind them, if they are members of Lobos Rugby, will be a big, brawny, loving, many-colored family pushing forward as one.

“Petty used to say, ‘Hard work will set you free,’ like every time we worked out,” Aguilar said by phone. “He showed us that if we worked hard, we could have it. In a lot of ways in life, after rugby and football, that has proven true. If you want to go somewhere in life, you have to work hard for it.”

Kenwood Inn Reopens with a Fresh Look and New Offerings

When wildfires whipped through the Sonoma Valley last fall, guests at the luxury Kenwood Inn & Spa fled in the night with no check-out. Alerted by the innkeeper, who had been keeping a wary eye on red skies to the east, many in their haste didn’t even stop to close their doors.

The fire came within a quarter-mile of the boutique hideaway on Highway 12, causing extensive smoke damage and forcing the inn to shut down for months of cleaning and renovation.

But when it reopened this spring, the 29-room inn hugging a hillside was not only sparkling clean with fresh and more authentic Italian-style plaster. It was showing off a few new features, including an updated reception area with special touches like a custom-milled oak and black marble-topped desk and new limestone fireplace mantels. And at a time when most hotels are going for electronic locks, the Kenwood Inn is dialing back to the Old World, with big brass and tasseled room keys stored in their own wooden key cabinet, all custom made in Italy.

Other subtle interior design details have been incorporated by Salt + Bones, a design studio in Carmel that specializes in hotels and restaurants.

This fall, a whole new spa will be unveiled. Guests coming in for treatments can cozy up to a larger fireplace, relax in a new waiting area and dress in new men’s and women’s locker rooms.

A 12-foot communal walnut trestle table, shipped over from Italy, has been added to the small dining room. And guests, through special package arrangements ordered in advance, may now enjoy a full five-course dinner at the inn, in addition to the small plates that have been available.

Inn General Manager Scarlett Graham says it was difficult after the fire. The hotel was sold out the night the fires broke out, and many people left all their belongings behind.

After a lengthy evacuation, she and the inn’s chief engineer went room to room, meticulously packing up sunglasses, passports, cameras, car keys, and wine purchases and mailing them back to their guests.

The inn is offering a Passport to Spring Package with 20 percent off regular room rates, a $50 spa credit, complimentary bottle of wine, and discounts.

kenwoodinn.com

Emeril Lagasse Pays It Forward for North Bay Fire Victims

Stephanie Choate and Brian Kish at Arista Winery for “Party at Dan’s” in June 2018. Photo: Allyson Wiley
Stephanie Choate and Brian Kish at Arista Winery for “Party at Dan’s” in June 2018. Photo: Allyson Wiley

Winemaker Dan Kosta is used to being asked to donate to charity events. Over the years, his critically acclaimed wines garnered thousands for nonprofits, including celebrity Chef Emeril Lagasse’s charitable foundation in New Orleans.

Dan Kosta's Trailer at Arista. Photo: Molly Loubiere (ELF)
Dan Kosta’s trailer at Arista. Photo: Allyson Wiley

So when wildfires tore through Sonoma County last October and Kosta was among the thousands who lost homes, Lagasse — a longtime friend and business collaborator — was eager to find a way to give back to his friend and the Wine Country fire victims.

“So many of the winemakers, donors, sponsors, and friends who make the foundation’s fundraising efforts possible were affected by the California fires,” Lagasse said. “My wife, Alden, and I are grateful for their tremendous generosity year after year, and we’re honored to be able to pay it forward and give back to those in need in the Napa Valley and Sonoma regions.

“People just got on the phone and asked Dan to come to New Orleans,” Lagasse added. “Dan has never said no to us, ever, when we asked for his help with charity work. He’s done so much for us, and we take care of each other.”

On a lark, the two decided to auction off a one-night wine and dinner party at the 40-by-40-foot trailer that Kosta lived in for several months. The trailer was recently moved to Arista Winery for the party.

Chef Mark Stark and Chef David Zimmerman at Arista Winery for Dan's Trailer Party in June 2018. Photo: Molly Loubiere (ELF)
Chef Mark Stark and Chef David Zimmerman (Chef Dustin Valette, far right)  prepare a Low Country shrimp boil at Arista Winery for “Party at Dan’s” in June 2018. Photo: Allyson Wiley

Thus was born “Party at Dan’s,” a single auction package that raised a whopping $500,000 for Napa and Sonoma fire relief during Lagasse’s annual Carnivale du Vin in New Orleans last November.

High-dollar donors vied for a coveted spot at the Sonoma event, held last Friday at Arista Winery in Healdsburg. Many of the attendees were from the Gulf Coast, which has also seen its share of natural disasters. In total, the 2017 Carnivale du Vin raised more than $1.5 million for the Emeril Lagasse Foundation, which helps inspire youth through culinary, nutrition and arts education.

Kosta said it took just 10 minutes for attendees at the winter auction to donate half a million dollars to fire relief. “I donated $25,000 and asked people to follow my lead. For anyone who donated, we promised a party this June at Dan’s Trailer,” said Kosta. “They just really stepped up.”

With green hills, cleared rubble and recovery well underway this spring, it seemed time for a celebration, according to Kosta, who invited some of the region’s best chefs and vintners in the name of recovery and philanthropy.

Emeril Lagasse, Antonia Keller, Michael Mina, Brian Kish and Adam Sobel at Arista Winery for Dan's Trailer Party in June 2018. Photo: Molly Loubiere (ELF)
Emeril Lagasse, Antonia Keller, Michael Mina, Brian Kish and Adam Sobel at Arista Winery for “Party at Dan’s” in June 2018. Photo:  Allyson Wiley

The lineup included chefs Michael Mina, Dustin Valette (Valette, Healdsburg), Ken Frank (La Toque, Napa), Mark Stark (Stark Reality Restaurants) and Timothy Kaulfers (Arista Winery) along with winemakers from Darioush, Limerick Lane, Three Sticks, The Setting Wine, Riverain, Fleury Estate, Pride Mountain and AldenAlli (a joint venture with Lagasse and Kosta).

Others attending the event included musician Sammy Hagar along with Juliana Martinelli (Martinelli Winery), Michael Haney (Sonoma County Vintners) and Suzanne Pride Bryan (Pride Mountain Winery).

Kosta said he is not planning to rebuild a home in Sonoma County and that losing his home was freeing in some ways.

“It’s humbling. It shakes you up and you know the difference between what you want and what you need,” Kosta said. “You realize that happiness in life is a choice. It offers up perspective.”

At Arista Winery for Dan's Trailer Party in June 2018. Photo: Molly Loubiere (ELF)
At Arista Winery for “Party at Dan’s” in June 2018. Photo: Allyson Wiley

Though the party brought a festive vibe to the trailer last week, Kosta spent a less celebratory three months living in the space with his family. Kosta has since moved to a home in Healdsburg.

He says the time after losing his home changed him, helping him focus on helping others rather than worrying about his own possessions.

“I know that so many people suffered so much loss,” he said. “I’ve never felt so lucky, and I have so much empathy for those who weren’t as lucky,” he said.

Kosta now plans to sell the trailer and is looking forward to a new chapter in his life. “Home is where you’re at,” he said. “I like blowing in the wind right now.”

During Lagasse’s November charity auction, a 2015 The Setting Cabernet Sauvignon sold for $350,000, the most ever paid for a single bottle of wine.

The $500,000 raised by the Emeril Lagasse Foundation was split between the Community Foundation of Sonoma County and the Napa Valley Community Foundation. Both are working toward the long-term efforts of rebuilding communities after the fires. The Community Foundation of Sonoma County was unable to disclose which specific nonprofits received the funding from the Emeril Lagasse Foundation.

“It was my pleasure to help our friends when Sonoma County needed us,” Lagasse said. “We are still recovering from Hurricane Katrina 13 years later,” he added, with a nod to the home he lost in New Orleans. “We know how long it takes.”

Finding Real Deal Sushi at Sake 107 in Petaluma

Five piece nigiri at Sake 107 in Petaluma. Heather Irwin/PD
Five piece nigiri at Sake 107 in Petaluma. Heather Irwin/PD

You don’t fall in love with sushi at an all-you-can-eat Chinese buffet. Sadly, however, it’s often the first spot many Americans encounter the concept of eating raw fish on a pile of rice.

And no wonder people run screaming from those dried up, horrifying, evil little bits of nastiness. That’s like comparing Little Caesar’s to a fresh wood-fired pizza made with 00 flour, fresh mozzarella and basil by a trained pizzaolo. No contest, because when you start with the bad stuff, there’s little impetus to actually try the good stuff. Strawberry Hill Boone’s Farm ain’t prepping you for the wonders of a single vineyard Flowers chardonnay.

Five piece nigiri at Sake 107 in Petaluma. Heather Irwin/PD
Five piece nigiri at Sake 107 in Petaluma. Heather Irwin/PD

What’s tragic is that a buttery piece of fiercely fresh tuna belly or fresh salmon handled by a trained sushi chef can be an absolute game changer. It’s also very rare and worth seeking out. We’ve found just that at Sake 107 in Petaluma.

Open nearly a year, the buzz has steadily grown for Chef Eiji Ando, a Hana Japanese alum who has dedicated his life to the craft. It’s awe-inspiring to watch the flicking of his hands as he shapes the seasoned rice and fish into a single perfect bite, and perfect isn’t a word we use lightly when it comes to nigiri. God help you if you are gauche enough to dunk it in soy sauce.

Ando watches me instinctively pour soy sauce into a dish, saying everything by saying nothing.

“No soy sauce?” I ask a bit sheepishly. Honestly, I’m a dunker, because I eat a lot of cheap sushi.

“No soy sauce,” he says, gingerly brushing on a special concoction of soy, sake and rice vinegar atop the fish. No bright pink ginger. No wasabi (they actually have real wasabi should you request it).

Tuna tartar on shrimp crackers at Sake 107 in Petaluma. Heather Irwin/PD
Tuna tartar on shrimp crackers at Sake 107 in Petaluma. Heather Irwin/PD

The umi masu (bright orange ocean trout from Scotland) is a single perfect bite because of what it isn’t — it isn’t fishy or vinegary; it isn’t overly chewy or drowned in salty soy sauce.

The rice is precisely seasoned, without too much or too little, blending into the background rather than sucker-punching you in the tastebuds.

Instead, this bite of nigiri is a cloud of umami covered in an unctuous ocean breeze, assuming that were even possible, but frankly it should be.

No soy sauce is lesson one. Hatcho miso is lesson two.

Made in Ando’s home prefecture of Aichi (smack dab in the middle of Japan), hatcho miso is a dark fermented paste made only with soybeans. Aged two summers and two winters under literal tons of rocks, its used as a base for soup as well as sauces.

Unlike more familiar miso, hatcho has been made at just two factories in Aichi the same way for 650 years, using 200-year old casks and a whole lot of manpower. It adds a slightly bitter, salty flavor to foods that is unlike other more nuanced miso.

Ando’s signature Miso Katsu and Asari-hatcho miso soup are both stellar representations, and it’s a flavor you won’t soon forget.

The third lesson: Sake shouldn’t set your throat on fire.

Tedorigawa sake at Sake 107 sushi and sake bar in Petaluma. Heather Irwin/PD
Tedorigawa sake at Sake 107 sushi and sake bar in Petaluma. Heather Irwin/PD

We’ve had some really cheap sake and some of the world’s most expensive sake, and the good stuff is worth the price.

At $12 per glass, Tedorigawa Yamahai Junmai is a softly assertive representation that will have you rethinking why you never got more into sake.

With a simple menu focused on fresh fish and produce, along with family and vegetable-foods (shrimp tempura, agedashi tofu, chicken teriyaki, garlic eggplant), Sake 107 doesn’t take itself too seriously.

But don’t let Ando’s easy manner fool you, because he’s a real-deal chef who knows his way around a piece of fish — raw or otherwise.

Best Bets

Five Piece Nigiri, $21: Put yourself in the chef’s hands. Personally, we wish we’d doubled or tripled that. There’s not a stinker in the bunch, but don’t miss the Hokkaido uni, ocean trout (umi masu), sake (salmon) or maguro (big eye tuna).

We want so badly to love saba — a marinated and pressed mackerel — but its a strong flavor that takes some getting used to. If you’re into it, Ando has a special off-menu roll he’ll make for you.

Hamachi Umeshiso Age, $12: A small plate with a sort of yellow tail, pickled plum and shiso sandwich fried in tempura batter. The combo of light fishiness, sour plum and astringent shiso wrapped in crunchy batter is a home run.

Hamachi umeshiso age, yellow tail with pickled plum, shiso tempura and green tea salt at Sake 107 in Petaluma. Heather Irwin/PD
Hamachi umeshiso age, yellow tail with pickled plum, shiso tempura and green tea salt at Sake 107 in Petaluma. Heather Irwin/PD

Tuna Lily, $13: A little gimmicky, but a stunning plate of ruby tuna tartare cupped in puffed shrimp crackers.

Miso Katsu, $20: A signature dish and personal favorite of Ando, this is serious comfort food. Kurobuta pork is fried in panko and thinly sliced, with a hatcho miso sauce poured atop the pork, creating a fragrant steam that will have you trying to eat the super hot pork way before its ready for your craw. I have the blisters to prove it (but worth it).

Melts in your mouth roll, $17: Sushi rolls and I don’t get along. I generally find them horrifying, filled with fried nastiness, covered in bad rice and doused with four kinds of sauce. This isn’t that. Daring Ando to overcome that kind of distaste, he threw out a signature roll made with spicy tuna and salmon sitting on a pool of homemade ponzu sauce. I’m still not a spicy tuna fan, but the roll had me at homemade ponzu. This citrusy soy sauce makes what could be cloyingly rich into something with depth and character.

Overall: Seriously awesome sushi and izayaki in downtown Petaluma that reminds us of what great Japanese food can really taste like.

Sake 107, 107 Petaluma Blvd N., Petaluma, 241-7580, sake107.com

Sonoma’s MacArthur Place and Saddles Steakhouse Set for Big Remodel, Headed by Celebrity Chef

Big changes are coming to MacArthur Place Hotel & Spa in Sonoma – and it all involves an Iron Chef.

The resort, located just a few blocks from the historic Sonoma Plaza, features 64 rooms, a spa, and a western-themed steakhouse, Saddles, which has been serving up prime ribs and martinis to hungry and thirsty locals and wine country visitors for over a decade.

However, it seems that even in Sonoma all good things come to an end and while MacArthur Place is here to stay, the property is about to undergo a major facelift.

In October 2017, MacArthur Place was acquired by Arizona-based IMH Financial Corporation from longtime owner, Sonoma local Suzanne Brangham. After the purchase, IMH declared that changes would be made to the propety and, while the exact nature of those changes remained unclear for some time, the company has now hit the ground running with renovations and a new restaurant concept.

Celebrity chef Geoffrey Zakarian has been called in to update the property’s food and beverage program. Zakarian, who won Next Iron Chef in 2011, has done it all: from earning a Michelin star for his former restaurant, Country, to serving as a judge and show host on the Food Network.

Zakarian, who finds inspiration in fashion, design, media and the arts, will bring his signature style to Sonoma with the introduction of three new food and beverage experiences at MacArthur Place.

The kitschy charm of Saddles Steakhouse will be transformed into something more modern: out with the cowboy boots, saddle bar stools, and creepy horse murals; in with the bright interior, clean lines, and farmhouse garden setting of Mediterranean restaurant Layla.

The old hotel bar, famous for its martini happy hour, will be completely transformed and renamed The Bar at MacArthur. Craft cocktails will be on the menu as well as sports games on two big screen TVs; stylish art deco furniture will create an old-school lounge feel.

Zakarian will also introduce The Porch, a coffee bar and marketplace that will serve coffee and pastries in the morning and agua frescas and fresh ice cream into the evening. Craft products will be sourced locally for the “stock house-style” space.

The hotel rooms at MacArthur Place will also get a new look, featuring warm and monochromatic shades and touches like barn doors, furnishings made with natural materials (wood, leather, stone) and fireplaces.

Finally, resort leadership is also undergoing a transition. Long-time general manager Bill Blum will bid farewell to the property he has managed for 18 years as new general manager Rubén Cambero takes over. Cambero comes from acclaimed hospitality stock: his family owned and operated Hotel El Peregrino in Spain, where his mother was a Michelin-starred chef.

The renovations at MacArthur Place Hotel & Spa are anticipated to be completed by early 2019. macarthurplace.com.

Hop On: The Napa Valley Wine Train Gets a Beer Makeover

First it was tequila and now it’s beer – it seems the Napa Wine Train keeps getting sidetracked. On June 18, it diverts from its regular wine route as it turns into The Hop Train, taking passengers on a beer-infused trip through Napa Valley. The two-hour experience, hosted by local craft brewery Napa Palisades Beer Company, includes a two-hour “rail tour,” small bites and Palisades brews.

“We’re putting beer before Bordeaux and cans before corks,” says the Hop Train website. Napa Valley Wine Train managing editor Rich Evans says they are “excited to showcase the region’s incredible beer offerings and provide an alternative experience for those interested in trying something new.”

And something new it is. This is the first beer-centric experience offered by the Napa Valley Wine Train and it also features a new addition to the train: an open air car with 360-degree views. The two-hour trip includes tastings of three Napa Palisades beers: Loco IPA (7.5% ABV), 1849 Gold Rush Red Ale (5.7% ABV), and Little Loco Session IPA (4.9% ABV). Pub grub bites, prepared by the train’s culinary crew, will include chipotle chicken tacos, caprese salad, buffalo wings, mushroom toast, and smoked duck sliders.

The Hop Train starts June 18 and runs through October. Tickets start at $75 per person and $50 for locals. napavalleywinetrain.com.

America’s Favorite Neighborhood Restaurants: Wine Country Bakery Makes the List

America has its fair share of blockbuster restaurants and Michelin stars but, like everywhere else, the best way to dine out (for those of us with average bank accounts) is to eat like a local. While the hotspot du jour might be appealing, the neighborhood restaurant is where you really get a sense of the local culture and cuisine. The food may not be buzzworthy, but you can count on getting a decent meal.

To help hungry travelers and food enthusiasts navigate to the best neighborhood restaurants in the country, Bon Appétit magazine asked some of the most interesting people they know—chefs, novelists, activists, comedians, NBA players, and more—to let them in on their “most-trusted haunts;” places that “make no claim to be the newest or the trendiest.” Among the top picks is Napa’s Butter Cream Bakery. Although we were a little surprised not to find any Sonoma County restaurants on this list, we were also relieved that our favorite hidden gems were not revealed to the masses.

Click through the gallery above to see some of the best Sonoma County bakeries, and let us know in the comments about your favorite neighborhood restaurants (criteria: where everybody knows your name, and they’re always glad you came…). 

Chef Anthony Bourdain Dead at 61, Lives On in the Memories of Sonoma County

01/10/2010: D1: PC: Anthony Bourdain

My phone started blowing up at 8:30 this morning. Chefs aren’t known for their early morning tweets, but when Anthony Bourdain, the patron saint of offal and raconteur of all things edible is found dead in a French hotel room, news travels fast in Sonoma County.

Bourdain, 61, died after an apparent suicide. Best recognized for his CNN travelogue, “Parts Unknown” and groundbreaking kitchen tell-all, “Kitchen Confidential” the news of his passing reverberated through the culinary world, eliciting farewells from former President Barack Obama, close friend, Chef Eric Ripert, food writer Ruth Reichl and thousands of others in the food world who extolled his rogue approach to eating.

Ari Weisswasser of Glen Ellen Star, who once served Bourdain at Restaurant Daniel in New York, was one of the first in Sonoma County to post his thoughts on Instagram, saying “You told me that when they ban foie gras, you would make sure we always had a source. Rest In Peace brother.”

Ari Weisswasser's Instagram post
Ari Weisswasser’s Instagram post

“I got a text from my brother in New York this morning about Bourdain, and I thought it was a prank,” said Weisswasser. He recounts the dinner where he served Bourdain–one filled with exotic ingredients that included wild doves, boar, hare, doves and the legendary ortolan. The tiny bird is eaten whole with a napkin placed on the diner’s head so God won’t see the shameful and decadent thing you’re doing. “They did the whole napkin thing,” said Weisswasser. Seriously.

“After dinner, he came to the kitchen and asked to bum a cigarette. Obviously, he chain-smoked and he had cigarettes with him, but I think it was just a way for him to break the ice and meet the cooks,” said Weisswasser, who was just 23 years old at the time. “We spent a good 30 minutes with him and I think he felt more comfortable with us than all the big names in the room.” With all the fuss about the foie gras ban in California at the time, Bourdain told the cooks that he would always find a supply for the delicacy for them, should they need it. It made an impression on the young cook.

“I think we can all relate to him in some form. On your way up in the kitchen, it’s a grind, it’s never-ending. His books described it perfectly, and I think anyone who has worked in a kitchen like that can relate to the pressure, the heat, the relief after dinner service,” he said.  “No one does this for the money, and you need that immediate gratification that puts a smile on your face and brings you back the next day,” Weisswasser said.

Known for his bad boy persona and proud middle finger to anything he found sycophantic, Bourdain rose to the public consciousness in 1999 with a New Yorker essay about the horrors and wonders of a restaurant kitchen. Bourdain was the first back-of-house cook to tell the world what really happened behind the swinging doors with gut-churning descriptions of his time at New York’s Brasserie Les Halles and other restaurants, and trust us, it wasn’t pretty.

Following up with the seamy, un-put-downable Kitchen Confidential: Adventures in the Culinary Underbelly in 2000, Bourdain chastised diners who ordered fish on Monday (it’s been sitting around since Friday, he claimed) or bellied up to a steam table brunch buffet, like rubes (grossing us all out that it was mostly leftovers). 

But his candor and punk-rock attitude also inspired a generation of chefs. “Reading Kitchen Confidential as a line cook was a game changer,” said Chef Heather Ames, a longtime chef at Skywalker Ranch who currently works at Cardinal Newman High School.

Bourdain was always the anti-celebrity chef, poking fun at anyone he thought lacked the real chops to be telling the rest of us how to cook. The Food Network’s Guy Fieri and Sandra Lee were favorite targets, though any misstep in the food world was fodder for his sharp wit. Emerging at a kinder, gentler moment when clean-cut faces like Emeril Lagasse, Alton Brown, Rachel Ray and Paula Deen ruled the Food Network, Bourdain ripped open the curtain to show us the bloody entrails behind the scenes.

For Jesse Mallgren, executive chef at the Michelin-starred Madrona Manor in Healdsburg, the news of Bourdain’s death hit especially hard. Bourdain has an 11-year-old daughter who he doted on, but now leaves behind. Mallgren himself lost his father at a similarly young age.

You never know what demons other people have. As someone who lost his father to suicide, this one hits close to home. So sad…” said Mallgren on his Twitter feed on Friday. Mallgren was a fourth-grader when his father took his own life, causing him years of pain and confusion. “I still don’t understand it,” he said.

I’m a chef, too, and I can see how someone would want to escape from everything, but being on the other side of it, and seeing personally, I can’t imagine doing that to your kid, to the people you love. It was pretty difficult as a kid to understand why your dad would do that,” he added.

Mallgren’s son, who is the same age he was when his father died, was top of mind Friday morning, “I feel so responsible for my kids I can’t imagine doing that to them. How miserable are you that you would do that?”

Mallgren acknowledged that the kitchen can be a mecca for people who aren’t always comfortable in traditional jobs. “People who don’t always like talking to people gravitate toward the kitchen. You can hide behind the pans and put your head down in the back of the house. Those kinds of likeminded people work with you. There’s a great camaraderie among cooks and they understand each other,” Mallgren said.

“It doesn’t matter how famous you are, we’re all basically the same. We all have our problems,” he added.

Others in Sonoma County recounted inspiration from his books and travelogues. “He was funny, irreverent, roguishly handsome, a great storyteller…I loved his series as it evolved into being more about the people and country with food as the connection,” said Condra Easley, co-owner of Sebastopol’s Patisserie Angelica

In 2010 when Bourdain came to Santa Rosa at the (then) Wells Fargo Center with Eric Ripert, I felt a mix of awe and the impish desire to poke the tobacco-stained, boozy bear, writing:

“I just can’t quit Anthony Bourdain. He’s a smug, foul-mouthed, boozy nihilist. He’s a poster boy for the schticky celebrity chefs he routinely skewers. His kitchen-cred is admittedly questionable, he’s not shy about where women belong, and the whole Quentin Tarantino channeling Hunter S. Thompson gets a little grating after 40 episodes or so.

Yet we, his brooding followers, can never get enough of King Tony’s bad boy antics and alcohol-fueled adventures. As the Patron Saint of Egoist Chefs, Dean of Maliciously Delicious Tweets and Railer Against Food D-Baggery, we eagerly dissect every episode of No Reservations and now, The Layover. We cheer as countless Kitchen Dimwits, Culinary Poseurs, food writers, and, well, most of the Food Network fall upon his sword. Huzzah!” 

During public questions at the event, I challenged Bourdain to explain his feelings on the then-foie gras ban in California, a sticky wicket in the food world if there ever was one. What shocked me was his answer. Instead of throwing out some thoughtless quip studded with f-bombs, Bourdain seemed actually frightened about the whole subject. He said that after numerous run-ins with animal activists, some of whom had threatened his family, he felt that maybe it just wasn’t worth fighting about. I nearly fainted with surprise — but honestly, I think that behind the bravado, Bourdain had the same weaknesses and worries as the rest of us.

“The shock is like a punch to the gut. His work was like a rare jewel, Treasured and coveted. His simple style of questioning his hosts about their lives, their joys, their foods is something I share with the culinary classes. Could watch him interview a blank slate and it would interest me. His daughter is the one to be considered in this situation.” – Marie Ganister, instructor and academic coordinator, Windsor High School.

As someone who has worked closely with many folks in the restaurant industry, I know also first-hand the addictions and mental illness that are rife in creative professions. Bourdain made no secret about his mercurial ways and proclivity for hedonism. 

“I’m still here — on my third life, or maybe fourth. Who knows? I should’ve died in my 20s. I became successful in my 40s. I became a dad in my 50s. I feel like I’ve stolen a car – a really nice car – and I keep looking in the rearview mirror for flashing lights. But there’s been nothing yet,” he told Biography in 2016.

It’s sad and horrible all around, and the man who cut through all the bullshit of celebrity chef-dom and gave us a window into the steamy life of a kitchen drone is gone. No doubt he’d think all the love letters, back-patting and smarmy goodbyes are ridiculous. But somehow deep down, I think he’d also appreciate how many of us he inspired while running from the lights.

Need help? Reach out. Please. 

North Bay Suicide Prevention 24-hour hotline: 855-587-6373

NAMI Sonoma County warmline: 707-527-6655

Sonoma County Psychiatric Emergency Services: 707-576-8181

For information on Sonoma County support groups, call 707-527-6655 or go to namisonomacounty.org