Chefs Charlie Palmer and Scott Romano at Dry Creek Kitchen in Healdsburg. Photo: Paige Green.
Acclaimed Healdsburg chef Charlie Palmer has kept busy during the coronavirus pandemic with live cooking classes on Instagram and a video series, “American Artisan,” which highlights local chefs and winemakers. Now, he’s making the video series available online, and you can watch it right here, on sonomamag.com.
“I’m excited to kick off our new series, American Artisan, where we’ll be showcasing some of my favorite makers. We’ll give you a peek at some of the best products and destinations to put on your wish list when we can safely travel again,” said Palmer about the new series.
Click through the above gallery to watch episode 1-10 of “American Artisan.”
Smoked trout salad with green beans and hard boiled eggs, tomato and stone fruit salad, fried green tomatoes at Blue Ridge Kitchen in Sebastopol. (Heather Irwin / The Press Democrat)
Sebastopol’s Barlow is having its closeup moment. After some stunning lows over the years — namely the 2019 flood that left shops and restaurants literally underwater — the sprawling outdoor marketplace is suddenly a poster child for outdoor entertainment in the pandemic age.
Restaurants are bustling, as are tap rooms, tasting rooms and stores as Bay Area visitors, locals and anyone in need of a little vitamin D with their craft brew gather, socially distanced, for a much-needed outing.
The newest entrant is Blue Ridge Kitchen, a Southern(ish) restaurant that was designed to be a sort of something-for-everyone spot similar to Napa’s Rutherford Grill or the iconic Buckeye Roadhouse. With plenty of fast-casual and cocktail-cool dining concepts in the Barlow, Blue Ridge is the approachable anchor restaurant missing since the departure of Zazu Farm + Restaurant in 2019.
Smoked trout salad with green beans and hard boiled eggs, tomato and stone fruit salad, fried green tomatoes at Blue Ridge Kitchen in Sebastopol. (Heather Irwin)
Not that fellow Barlow restaurants including Sushi Kosho, Farmer’s Wife, Barrio, Acre Pizza and Fern Bar don’t have their own brisk following. It’s just that Blue Ridge is where you take your mom for a two-mimosa brunch with fried chicken and waffles so good she’ll forgive you for the belly button ring in 1997.
But like a good Spongebob episode, Blue Ridge Kitchen transcends its intended audience. Chef Matt D’Ambrosi (Spoonbar, Harmon Guest House, Pizzando) is keen to throw a few curve balls with deconstructed plating (Mississipi mud pie), culinary winks such as Asian pear coulis with the tuna tartare or anise-y fennel pollen ricotta in his tomato salad or surprises like saffron bechemel or caviar classing up the Croque Madame.
Sure, there are moments when things like sumac powder or endless microgreens seem overly fussy. But chefs live for accessorizing their dishes. We think Coco Chanel summed it up best, however, when she decreed that a well-dressed plate should always have one thing removed before leaving the kitchen. Or something like that.
Best Bets
Croque Madame, $25: This showstopper is the Liberace of sandwiches. Its jeweled capelets of griddled broiche sit in a dainty puddle of golden saffron Bechemel. Up top is a jaunty chapeau of sunny-side-up eggs and sequins of caviar. Peering inside, you’ll find a symphony of fontina, country ham and freaking lobster. You can’t look away from that kind of fabulous.
Hardwood Smoked Mt. Lassen Trout Salad, $15: Chef Matt is a longtime fisherman and doesn’t take kindly to bad seafood. That’s why you can’t go wrong with his house hardwood-smoked trout with crunchy haricot verts, olives, cherry tomatoes, fennel, egg and red wine dressing. It’s a riff on Nicoise salad, a food nemesis I recoil from. This has a casual California vibe that’s far more approachable.
Peaches and Sour Cream, $9: Yes, it’s a little thinky, but go with it. Arnold Palmer-flavored granita, tart lemon curd, sour cream “foam” and macerated peaches.
Melon Tomato Gazpacho, $9: Required. Sweet, savory, tart, refreshing, perfect.
Heirloom Tomato Salad with Stone Fruit, $18: The simple seasonal beauty of a ripe tomato gets a little lost between the miso garlic vinaigrette, basil yogurt and fennel-pollen ricotta. But it’s still pretty tasty.
Tuna tartare with Asian pear coulis, avocado, won tons at Blue Ridge Kitchen in Sebastopol. (Heather Irwin)
Ahi Tuna Tartare, $18: When Chef Matt told me this was one of his star dishes a few weeks ago, I had to stifle a snort because, really? There are maybe five Sonoma County restaurants that don’t feature this over-sesame oiled, avocado-smeared nightmare. But overlook this version at your peril. Tiny jewels of fresh tuna are so perfect with dabs of sweet Asian pear and spicy aioli. Restraint plus beauty equals delight.
Required sides: Collard Greens and Creamed Corn, $9: Sharing is for suckers.
Fried Chicken and Waffles, $19: Petite thyme and rosemary waffles that keep their structure, with two manageable pieces of perfectly fried chicken. Bigger isn’t always better. Bits of bacon and smoked syrup bring the whole thing together. I approve this dish.
Fried green tomatoes with hot sauce aioli at Blue Ridge Kitchen in Sebastopol. (Heather Irwin)
Fried Green Tomatoes, $15: I’ve never understood the appeal of unripe fried tomatoes, but maybe you do. These are at least neat and tidy, crispy, with hot sauce aioli. Super-good the next day.
What we’ll return for: It’s pretty impossible to get through the menu in even three or four visits, but we’re looking forward to trying the vegan Cauliflower Steak; Matt’s Smash Burger; a dino-sized Tomahawk steak and the Chef’s Grand Platter, a fresh seafood tower.
Overall: Whether you’re stopping by for a glass of wine and a $10 app or sitting down for a $95 steak with your family, there’s truly something on the menu for all tastes and budgets. Elevated techniques and well-considered dishes make it destination-worthy.
Blue Ridge Kitchen: Open daily from 11:30 a.m. to 8 p.m. (until 9 p.m. Friday and Saturday), 6770 McKinley St., Suite 150, Sebastopol, brkitchen.com
In Sonoma County, you can get a taste of faraway dream destinations without getting on a plane or traveling great distances. Daydreaming of a trip to France? We’ve got some local ideas in the above gallery. Bon voyage! (And don’t forget to social distance and to wear that mask!)
Where do you go for a taste of France in Sonoma County? Let us know in the comments below.
It wasn’t a fluke that the Maker 2019 Mendocino Viognier, packaged in a 250-milliliter can, won a gold medal at The Press Democrat’s North Coast Wine Challenge in July. Produced by Campovida Wines in Hopland, the viognier in its canned format came from Maker Wines in Marin County, a new company founded by two Stanford University business school grads. Their goal: to put traditionally bottled wines in single-serve aluminum containers that appeal to outdoor enthusiasts, recycling and sustainability proponents and millennials seeking unusual wines.
Closer to home, several Sonoma wineries now put fine fermented grape juice — paired with winemaking expertise — in cans, obliterating the notion that tinned wines are made only from low-grade grapes and sold for cheap at prices that reflect the mediocre contents. These easy-access, single-serve wines are worth seeking out, particularly now as hiking, picnicking, trips to the coast and other physically distanced activities have become increasingly popular.
Pandemic or not, the additional benefits of canned wines are many. No tools are necessary to open them. They are lightweight, fit neatly into backpacks and saddle bags — even cargo pants — and once empty, crush down to a tiny size. They’re entirely recyclable with a lower carbon footprint than glass. They’re impervious to damage from light and won’t shatter when dropped on the pool deck.
Many Sonoma canned wines are vintage-dated and appellation-labeled. Pressure-sensitive, wrap-around labels give designers a broad and textured canvas for artwork. The wines tend to be made with no or limited use of oak, which can obscure freshness of aromas and fruit flavors. By keeping levels of sulfur dioxide (a preservative) as low as possible at the canning stage, winemakers prevent the skunky character wines can have when SO2 reacts with the polymeric liner and aluminum.
“In the past, wines weren’t made for canning,” said Matthew Allan, co-founder, with Kenny Rochford, of West + Wilder Wines in Santa Rosa. “In the rush of entrants, the same wines that were going into sub-$10 bottles were put in cans with an expectation of a similar outcome. But canned wines need to be produced differently. They need to be refreshing and bright, with low sugar and low sulfur … and good fruit.”
Here are six Sonoma producers of tasty canned wines, all of them perfect for your next hike, family pool party and single-serve sipping at home, kept cool by a koozy. They may not be the perfect wines for all occasions, although they can be perfect wines for the right occasions.
Brick & Mortar
Healdsburg’s Alexis and Matt Iaconis got into the tin game a few years ago. To counter their high-end $50-range bottled sparkling wines, chardonnays, pinot noirs and cabernet sauvignons, they created a line of canned wines so solid that the couple landed a contract to supply wines to San Francisco’s Chase Center, home of the Golden State Warriors, when the arena reopens after its pandemic shutdown.
Courtesy of Brick & Mortar.
Four of the five wines, in 375-ml cans and bearing the California appellation, are bright and lively, super-clean and refreshing. Two are sparklers — white and rosé. They’re lightly carbonated and the bubbles linger, whereas some canned sparklers go flat soon after the tab is pulled. The still wines, a white blend and a red blend, are a bit weightier, yet still crisp and easy to drink.
The red, labeled Rouge, is a marvel with spicy aromatics and a juicy palate of dark cherry and plum. Cabernet franc, syrah and pinot noir grapes were fermented in stainless steel using native yeasts and aged in older barrels. One would be hard-pressed to tell this wine didn’t come from a glass bottle.
All canned wines are $6. Purchase from the website and at select retail stores.
Filmmaker Francis Ford Coppola introduced his canned sparkling wines in 2004, Sofia Minis, named after his daughter, Sofia Coppola. The little cans were raspberry in color, polymer-lined and came with a straw taped to the side. Sipping fizz out of a mini straw defeats the purpose of enjoying the tickle of the bubbles, though fashion certainly won out over function in the early days of Sofia.
Sofia, the woman, is all grown up now and a movie maker in her own right. A line of 750-ml bottled wines also carry her name and they’re quite good. The simpler minis remain, though improvements in liners and can design and the ability to fill cans at the Geyserville winery (the first minis were canned in Indiana) have lifted the quality considerably.
Courtesy of Francis Ford Coppola Winery.
Coppola’s Sofia California Blanc de Blancs Mini and California Brut Rosé Mini come in packs of four 187-ml cans and sell for $20 (still with straws). A 2018 Diamond Collection Monterey County Pinot Noir canned in Geyserville ($24 for a four-pack of 250-ml cans) is succulent, spicy and juicy, with no hint that it came from a can. Diamond Collection chardonnay, pinot grigio and sauvignon blanc also come in 250-ml cans, at $20 for four. Nationally distributed and available on the website.
Winesecrets, a multifaceted wine services company in Sebastopol, is behind this line of canned wines (plus a New York gin and tonic). Nomikai is the Japanese version of after-work drinks — perhaps small cans mean fewer headaches the next morning? Megan and Ryan Glaub, the wife-and-husband winemaking team at Ryme Cellars in Forestville, consult on this brand, and the two wines currently available are well worth a taste.
Courtesy of Nomikai.
The nonvintage California Red, best served slightly chilled, is dark garnet in color and juicy, with dark cherry, tangy cranberry and earthy spice flavors. Moderately tannic, it still has enough structure to match well with burgers and grilled sausages. The California Rosé Fizzy isn’t pink but rather orange-salmon and not all that carbonated. But it’s delicious and refreshing, tangy and citrus-laced.
Each wine sells for $96 for 24-packs of 187-ml cans, the equivalent of $4 a can and enough wine to fuel a large group. This new brand is working its way through retail channels; for now, order on the website.
In the 1980s, Iron Horse Vineyards founders Barry and Audrey Sterling created Tin Pony as a second label to their main brand, using grapes from young vines that had not yet fulfilled their promise. Tin Pony wines came in glass bottles, of course, and Iron Horse later achieved so much success with its sparkling and still wines from Green River of Russian River Valley that they were able to put Tiny Pony out to pasture.
Courtesy of Tin Pony.
But the Sterlings’ daughter, Joy Sterling, who now manages the business with her brother, Laurence, has ponies back in the stable. That one of Sonoma’s most respected producers has moved to high-quality wine in cans suggests the category is for real, not a flash in the tin pan.
“We are re-imagining (Tin Pony) and establishing a luxury niche … in a fast-growing format,” said Joy Sterling at the Aug. 1 can launch, “giving consumers a different way to appreciate quality wine.”
The Tin Pony 2019 Green Valley of Russian River Valley Chardonnay ($48 for a four-pack of 250-ml cans) is the most polished wine in this series. It’s fresh and juicy, with layers of peach, green apple and citrus flavors, medium body and with good texture and length. It’s very similar in style to Iron Horse’s bottled, unoaked chardonnay ($32 for 750 ml), yet crafted for canning. Purchase at the tasting room or online.
William Allen and Karen Daenen are the shepherds leading this Windsor winery, which began as a hobby in 2010 with 175 wine cases. Production reached 3,200 cases in 2019, and their wines — particularly those made from Rhone Valley grape varieties — have won fans for winemaker Allen’s commitment to using organically and sustainably grown grapes, native-yeast fermentations, minimal sulfur and no new oak for wine aging.
This formula converted beautifully to canning his new 2019 Bucking Luna California Sparkling Cinsault, as easy to like as the shepherds’ adorable miniature donkey, Luna Donato, who was born four days before sheltering in place began in March. Allen blended a rosé of cinsault from Yolo County with a splash of carbonic carignan from Mendocino County for this robustly flavored, slightly spicy, moderately fizzy red wine. While white wines generally offer more refreshment than reds, this one does the trick, thanks to the light tannins and pert carbonation.
Courtesy of Two Shepherds.
Each can ($11) is 375 ml, or one-half bottle of wine. Even though it’s low in alcohol at 10.5%, Luna herself packs a punch, depicted on the label as kicking at a suction-cupped coronavirus sphere. Purchase on the website.
Scribe Winery co-founder Andrew Mariani and his wife, Lia Ices, celebrated the birth of their daughter, Una Lou, by creating a canned wine in her name. While the Una Lou Carneros Rosé of Pinot Noir (made with Andrew’s brother, Adam) is not a Scribe product, it attracts the same millennials (and others) who love the Sonoma winery’s laid-back tastings, hip music playlist, unusual bottle shapes and excitingly oddball varietals such as sylvaner and St. Laurent, in addition to the more traditional chardonnays and pinot noirs.
Courtesy of Una Lou.
The 2019 Una Lou Carneros Rosé of Pinot Noir is light watermelon in color and tastes of tangy raspberries and tart cherries, with a hint of citrus and a snappy finish. It’s light-bodied and direct, with a bit of earthy funk in the aroma.
The 11.5% alcohol wine sells on the website for $40 for a four-pack of 375-ml cans, the equivalent of two standard bottles. Can scaredy cats can purchase the bottled version for $20. A portion of the proceeds from Una Lou go to the Edible Schoolyard and The Center for Land-Based Learning.
Matthew Allan and Kenny Rochford met while working at Medlock Ames winery in Alexander Valley. Rochford went on to management roles at Kosta-Browne and CIRQ wineries, and Allan worked as a marketing and sales executive, with an MBA in sustainable management. The two wanted to work together and founded West + Wilder, as Allan said, “canning wines that someone who really appreciates wine will like.” The company also supports the group 1% for the Planet, with a portion of wine revenues going to such projects as Friends of Trione-Annadel State Park and environmental efforts in Yosemite National Park.
Courtesy of West + Wilder.Courtesy of West + Wilder.
The wines, packaged in three-packs of 250-ml cans and priced at $18, are solid across the board, the most impressive being the American White Blend and Russian River Valley Pinot Noir.
The white, a mix of sauvignon blanc, chenin blanc, viognier, muscat and chardonnay ($17), offers plump, ripe cantaloupe, pear and white peach flavors and a hint of spice; the muscat lends an inviting honeysuckle aroma. The West + Wilder Russian River Valley Pinot Noir has wonderful spice on the nose and palate, along with dark cherry, cranberry, cola and sarsaparilla notes. It smells and tastes like pinot noir and should please pinotphiles for its true-to-type personality and price.
For a walk on the wilder side, try the Sparkling Rosé, racy and mouthwatering and with a gentle spritz of wild strawberry and watermelon flavors.
There is good West Coast distribution of West + Wilder wines; see the website for local retail sellers or to order direct. westandwilder.com
Brewster’s Beer Garden in Petaluma. Heather Irwin/PD
With summer in full swing, outdoor dining in Petaluma is a treat for cooped-up couples, families and solo diners looking for a little respite. We’ve put together some of our favorite restaurants, either for the great food, the welcoming patios or both. Bon appetit, Petaluma!
April Pantry: Super-tasty new spot with a semi-secluded patio for your Billionaire’s BLT or Aloha Plate. 1000 Clegg St., Petaluma, aprilpantry.com.
Ayawaska: One of the prettiest patios in Petaluma is nestled next to the river. Pair up a tart Pisco sour with some Peruvian-style ceviche and you’re set. 101 2nd St #190, Petaluma, ayawaskasf.com.
Pisco punch at Ayawaska in Petaluma. (Heather Irwin)
The Block: Food truck park with well-spaced outdoor seating. On Sundays, check out Kona Ice, which has recently started serving Sonoma County with tasty Hawaiian shave ice! 20 Grey St., Petaluma, theblockpetaluma.com.
Brewsters Beer Garden: There’s no question that the sprawling outdoor patio at this barbecue and burger beer garden is top of list for families and those needing some cocktail/beer refreshment (and really, who doesn’t these days?). Reservations strongly suggested. 229 Water St. North, Petaluma, brewstersbeergarden.com.
Server Olivia Gergus with a tray of beers at Brewsters Beer Garden in Petaluma. (Chris Hardy)Piri Piri Chicken Street Tacos with Portuguese fire-grilled chicken thighs, arugula, Piri Piri sauce and goat cheese from the Butcher Crown Roadhouse in Petaluma. (John Burgess)
Butcher Crown Roadhouse: One of our top picks, this modern barbecue spot is killing it with its smoked ribs and piri piri chicken for curbside pickup, plus burgers and my fave papas fritas and Mexican corn. There are a limited number of patio seats outside should you want the kitchen to plate to your mouth experience. 1905 Bodega Ave., Petaluma, butchercrown.com.
Della Fattoria: Way more than just bread and delightfully decadent desserts. Limited sidewalk seating plus a new mercantile to pick up cheeses, charcuterie and other goodies. 143 Petaluma Blvd. North, Petaluma, dellafattoria.com.
Dempsey’s Restaurant & Brewery: Located along the Petaluma River, Dempsey’s holds the title of oldest craft brewery in Sonoma County, offering a rotating selection of beer on 14 taps. Their outdoor garden patio is also dog-friendly. 50 E Washington St, Petaluma, 707- 765-9694, dempseys.com.
Lagunitas: A Petaluma institution, Lagunitas Brewery has outdoor seating open for craft beers and dining. Reservations not required — check in with the host when you arrive. 1280 N McDowell Blvd, Petaluma, 707-769-4495, lagunitas.com/taproom/petaluma
Lagunitas IPA. (Chris Hardy)
McNear’s: With over 40 dishes and a full-service bar, McNear’s has been a Petaluma favorite for over 30 years and is located in the heart of historic downtown. Their outdoor patio, which is open for dining, features local musicians on Sunday nights. 23 Petaluma Blvd N, Petaluma, CA 94952, 707-765-2121, mcnears.com.
Pearl: Our favorite brunchy-lunchy, Middle East-inspired spot in Petaluma has adorable red patio furniture out front and has expanded to take over some of their neighbor’s space for outside diners. Don’t miss the bocadillo, Israeli picnic or Jerusalem bagel plate. Take-away meal kits available for later. 500 First St., Petaluma, pearlpetaluma.com.
Persian fish stew at Pearl restaurant in Petaluma. (Heather Irwin)
Pub Republic: This popular, family-friendly spot has a broad menu for just about everyone and recently reopened for patio dining. 3120A Lakeville Hwy,. Petaluma, pubrepublic.com.
Risibisi: Critically-acclaimed Italian favorites include plenty of fresh pasta, along with steak, chicken and salmon. Don’t miss the risotto! 154 Petaluma Blvd. North, Petaluma, risibisirestaurant.com.
Sax’s Joint: This ‘50s style diner features a garden patio and outdoor seating. Sax’s offers patrons a variety of classic Americana-inspired dishes, including ‘The Elvis’ — your choice of pancakes, french toast, or waffles, topped with peanut butter and bananas. 317 Petaluma Blvd S, Petaluma, 707-559-3021, saxsjoint.com.
Water Street Bistro: Water Street Bistro puts a Parisian spin on casual cafe dining. Limited patio seating available. 100 Petaluma Blvd N, Petaluma, 707- 763-9563, restaurantji.com/ca/petaluma/water-street-bistro-
Wild Goat Bistro: Located at the Great Petaluma Mill, Wild Goat Bistro offers a rotating menu of seasonal small dishes, sandwiches, and salads. Limited outdoor seating available. 6 Petaluma Blvd N, Petaluma, 707- 658-1156, wildgoatbistro.com
Four Cheese Fig & Pig Pizza at Wild Goat Bistro, in Petaluma. (Christopher Chung)
The Cornerstone Sonoma marketplace features a series of garden installations by Sunset magazine. (Thomas J. Story)
A giant Adirondack chair on the side of Highway 12 marks the entrance to the Cornerstone Sonoma marketplace. While the big, bright orange chair captures the whimsy of the 9-acre complex, it only scratches the surface of the many different things awaiting those who visit.
Here, at the south end of Sonoma Valley, you will find a microcosmos of Sonoma — tasting rooms, restaurants, gardens, boutiques and fine art that, together, capture the spirit of this area. As an additional bonus, the marketplace blends outdoor and indoor spaces in a way that feels just right, right now.
Home to Sunset magazine’s test kitchen and gardens, Cornerstone is dotted with collections of plants — from lush pollinator gardens to raised beds, currently bursting with late-summer bounty: pumpkins, tomatoes and huge stalks of corn. Sturdy aloe vera plants juxtaposed with wispy wildflowers are pleasing to the eye, while a children’s garden— complete with a mini vineyard and brightly colored nesting boxes for barn owls — is a fun space for little ones.
Throughout the landscape, you will also find fine art iron sculptures as well as elaborate art installations — some permanent, others revolving. Take a moment to stand still and take in the scenery, or snap a selfie, in the Serenity Garden against a backdrop of vineyards.
Border planting in Sunset Test Gardens at Cornerstone Sonoma. (Samantha Brown)An assortment of plants from the Sunset Western garden collection at the Sunset Test Gardens at Cornerstone Sonoma. (Erik Castro)
Cornerstone currently houses a trio of stores: Potter Green & Co, Eurasian Interiors and The Loop. (Chateau Sonoma, seller of French vintage finds, is currently in the process of relocating to the Sonoma Plaza and Artefact Design and Salvage has closed). The winery tasting rooms — Highwayman Wines, Meadowcroft Wines and Obsidian Wine Co. — are open for outdoor tastings and sell wine by the glass or by the bottle to-go, while Prohibition Spirits, a producer of limoncello, figcello, bourbon and gin, has a cocktail garden with an array of herbs used for mixed drinks. (Craft spirits to-go are also available for purchase in the tasting room).
After strolling in the gardens and sipping wine and spirits, you may have worked up an appetite. Visitors can bring a picnic—there are tables on the lawns and you can purchase drinks from the tasting rooms—and on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays (11 a.m. – 5 p.m.), Ramekins Catering hosts pop-ups with wine country fare: wood-fired pizzas with local ingredients, fresh takes on crostini (like peaches on burrata) and flavorful salads.
Salvador Dali exhibition at SBHG gallery at Cornerstone Sonoma. (Karen Kizer)
For more art, the SBHG gallery is currently showing (and selling) Salvador Dalí sculptures, lithographs and paintings. The Spanish surrealist’s famous distorted clocks are on display throughout the exhibit, which is free and has been extended to October. With many art museums and galleries closed due to the pandemic, this small and airy space is the perfect spot for a quick art fix.
Another summer highlight at Cornerstone Sonoma is the biannual French Flea Market, hosted by Chateau Sonoma. This year, due to the pandemic, it is taking place online, September 19-20, 2020.
Cornerstone Sonoma, 23570 Arnold Dr., Sonoma, 707-933-3010, cornerstonesonoma.com, Gardens are open from 10am-4pm daily. Restaurant, shops, tasting rooms and Salvador Dali exhibit are open from 10am-5pm. Hours may vary due to special events.
Gravenstein apple pie from recipe developer and cookbook producer Kim Laidlaw. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Apple season is here! It’s time to kick things off with the much-loved, perfectly-sweet-and-sour, very-Sonoma Gravenstein. Whether you just eat the apples, bake them or put them in a pie, we’d like to suggest a few ways to help you channel your apple enthusiasm while supporting local farms and businesses. Click through the above gallery for details.
The outdoor patio for Single Thread at Kistler Vineyards’ Trenton Roadhouse. (Heather Irwin / Sonoma Magazine)
Wineries and chefs are teaming up to create one of the biggest pandemic wins in Wine Country. Pairing wide-open outdoor spaces with destination-worthy meals, it’s a win-win for both struggling industries.
One of the newest entrants is Bricoleur Vineyards, which hired former Chalkboard and Brass Rabbit chef Shane McAnelly last spring. This infant winery has been under construction for nearly five years and on the cusp of opening fell victim to the on-again, off-again pandemic rules surrounding tastings and wineries.
Now the nearly 50-acre winery is up and running with several outdoor dining experiences, the best of which is the Summer Wine Classic series. At the event, which kicked off in early August, guests are seated near a pond under large arbors and served a satisfyingly complete four-course dinner that pairs Bricoleur wines with of-the-moment produce from their own farm and nearby purveyors.
2018 Alexander Valley Zinfancel at Bricoleur Vineyards. (Heather Irwin)Elote agnilotti with roasted corn, charred shishito pepper, lime, cotija, cilantro at Bricoleur Vineyards’ Summer Classic Wine Dinner Series. (Heather Irwin)
McAnelly mans an impressively outfitted kitchen, serving up dishes like his “elote” agnolotti with roasted corn, charred shishito peppers, lime and cotija cheese with the winery’s 2018 Kick Ranch Viogner, a chill little scamp that doesn’t overwhelm with acidity and pairs well with a hint of heat in the peppers. Pasta is an obsession with McAnelly, and it shows in these plump little pockets of pasta filled with sweet corn puree that is easily one of the best dishes of the year.
This time of year there’s magic in heirloom tomatoes with anise-y basil and cucumber, fresh summer squash and berries foraged from nearby bushes. McAnelly plays with them all, piling layers of ripe flavors, like his coconut tres leches cake with roasted strawberries, blackberry, chantilly cream and Greek basil, or using carrot tops for an earthy salsa verde with grilled Snake River farms steak.
The menus change up throughout the rest of the series, with an ode to Julia Child on Aug. 15 and a pig-centric menu on Aug. 29. Tickets cost $150 per person.
If you’re looking for a more affordable, family-friendly experience, the winery hosts pizza nights with wine pairings for grownups and kid-friendly options for everyone else. $65 for adults, $35 for kids.
Also available are to-go picnics on the expansive property, which features a large pond with black swans, a heart-stoppingly beautiful rose garden, a farm and some of the fluffiest chickens you’ll ever see.
More winery-chef collaborations worth checking out
Single Thread in Healdsburg is bringing their carefully curated dining experience to the sprawling 60-acre Kistler Vineyards near Forestville. Guests will be served a 10-course menu with of-the-moment ingredients befitting a three-Michelin star restaurant. Offered through the end of September. Thursday through Monday evenings. $375 per person, reservations required, singlethreadfarms.com.
Big Bottom Market in Guerneville is delivering picnic lunches to several wineries, such as Bowman Cellars in Graton and Iron Horse Vineyards in Sebastopol, as well as AutoCamp in Guerneville. bigbottommarket.com/wine-country-lunch-order-form.
Flowers Vineyards & Winery in Healdsburg has partnered with chef Tyler Florence for “Flowers & Florence To Go” a pickup-option for parties of 4 or 8 featuring Flowers Sonoma Coast Chardonnay or Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir paired with Florence’s fried chicken and locally sourced sides. flowerswinery.com.
Jordan Winery in Healdsburg has created Paris on the Patio and other programs featuring picture-perfect meals from chef Todd Knoll.
Valley Bar and Bottle in Sonoma has the feel of a cozy French cafe. (Conor Hagen/Valley Bar + Bottle)
There’s a new wine bar on the Sonoma Plaza and it’s the first in Sonoma and Napa County to zero in on natural wines.
Valley Bar + Bottle opened in July as a wine bar, restaurant, and bottle shop. Housed in the Leese-Fitch Adobe built in 1836, which was most recently Harvest Moon Cafe, Valley feels like a tiny neighborhood cafe in France. It’s intimate and minimal, yet chic with dusty pink accent walls and a rustic open kitchen. There’s a bar and a few tables inside, but for now, all seating is on the back patio. Visitors can also take wine home from the positively-adorable bottle shop wall at 25 percent off the menu price.
Valley’s interior has the feel of a cozy French cafe. (Conor Hagen photo)
“We wanted it to feel inviting and open but also European and kind of cozy,” said Lauren Feldman, co-founder of Valley. “It was really important to make sure we didn’t change it too much from the fact that it was this amazing historic Adobe. We didn’t change anything architecturally; we just wanted to make it feel humble and clean and as original as we could.”
This unique-to-California Wine Country venture is a partnership between four friends (two couples), all alumni of Scribe Winery. Each founder brings unique skills and experiences to the table, drawing also on time spent in New York and Europe.
The Wine
Feldman said they’re not technically marketing themselves as a natural wine bar—the term can be both controversial and difficult to define since there’s no official regulation on this burgeoning corner of the market—but almost the entire wine list at Valley does fall into the general category of natural wines. This means the wines have received little to no intervention in the cellar, are produced entirely without or with minimal sulfur, and the vintners farm organically sans pesticides.
“We’re focused on farming first. We’re working with people who want to leave the land better than they found it,” said Feldman. “We’re really interested in Indigenous farming methods and regenerative farming.”
Locals may be especially drawn to the wine list, which presents an opportunity to explore wines that go far beyond Sonoma County. While there are a few bottles from local producers like Gail Wines, Source & Sink, Winery Sixteen 600, and Scribe (of course), the lineup mostly hails from Europe — France, Spain, Italy, Germany, Hungary, Slovenia and beyond — while also highlighting other appellations within California. The current by the glass list features unique selections like a sparkling Cabernet Franc from the Loire Valley and a red wine from the Canary Islands. Don’t be embarrassed if you discover several grape varieties you aren’t familiar with and likewise can’t pronounce; you’re not alone and that’s part of the fun.
Take bottles to go from Valley’s bottle shop. (Conor Hagen photo)
Curated by Feldman and her beau/co-founder Tanner Walle, the list “has something for everyone” and is a good balance of “some really weird stuff” (her style) and more classic (his). “We’re also not proponents of wines that are super flawed,” she said, acknowledging a common critique of the natural wine category. “The best wines and the worst wines you’ll ever have are natural wines.” Patrons will also find a selection of beers and ciders sourced from all over the U.S.
The Food
Partner Emma Lipp, who was the Culinary Director at Scribe for five years, is responsible for Valley’s food menu, along with co-founder and chef Stephanie Reagor. Lipp said the concept for the fare is California home cooking that’s ingredient- driven, rustic, and simple using traditional methods of cooking. “We want our food to facilitate the experience of sharing wine and conversation,” she said. “We want it to feel nourishing and satisfying, and we emphasize brightness and levity.”
Lipp made many connections with local farmers during her time at Scribe and said “working with small, local farms and purveyors is the cornerstone of the food program” at Valley. The list of farms she’s working with is long and impressive: 11 different operations for produce, TwoXSea for fresh fish, and Cream Company for meat, chickens, and eggs, just to name a few.
Tin and Chips are one of the small plate offerings at Valley. (Courtesy of Valley Bar + Bottle)
“We source everything for Valley with the same agenda: stewardship for the land and care for people,” said Lipp, who seeks out “farmers and purveyors that farm sustainably, who eschew chemical farming, and who invest in human culture and economy.”
The XO Egg topped with the iconic, spicy Hong Kong condiment, are a must-order. Other small plates on offer include mortadella, a pink shrimp roll, tins and chips (with your choice of a tin of razor clams, mussels, or octopus), and eggplant with ginger and garlic. There are two main dishes—a half chicken with fried potatoes and Bolinas King salmon with cucumber and sesame—plus a selection of desserts. The menu does shift slightly depending on what produce and ingredients are available each week. Valley is open Thursday-Monday, 5-9 p.m.
Festival goers of all ages, Saturday August 13, 2011 enjoyed the Gravenstein Apple Fair in Sebastopol. (Kent Porter / Press Democrat) 2011
The much-loved Gravenstein Apple Fair is canceled this year due to the pandemic, but don’t despair: apple lovers can still get their fix thanks to a new “Grav & Go” event.
Taking place on the weekend of Aug. 15 and 16, the event will feature a variety of products — apple-scented soaps, ciders, juice, pies and more — from local farmers and producers, including Backyard restaurant, Dutton Ranch, Lala’s Jam Bar & Urban Farmstead, Meyer Apples, Mom’s Apple Pie, North Coast Organic, Tilted Shed Ciderworks, and The Soap Cauldron.
All products are made from Gravenstein apples and will be available for curbside pickup at the Sebastopol Community Cultural Center during the weekend event. Orders should be placed in advance online (deadline is Aug. 13, at noon).
The annual fair, now in its 47th year, is the primary fundraiser for local nonprofit Sonoma County Farm Trails and continues to benefit the organization through this year’s event. All participating vendors are members of the “Farm Trails family” and customers can choose to add a donation to their order. (If you donate $50 or more, you will receive an apple-themed reversible cloth face mask sewn by Farm Trails volunteers).
“Connecting the public with our local growers and producers is a big part of what we do,” said Carmen Snyder, Farm Trails’ executive director and manager of the Gravenstein Apple Fair. “In the absence of the fair this year, the pop-up concept provides a safe way to do that and add a little taste of the fair in the process. We’re making the pickup experience as fun and festive as possible.”
