Recipe: Farm-Fresh Spring Butter Mochi

Butter mochi.

Cheese, it is said, is milk’s leap toward immortality. As true as that may be, butter takes it at least halfway there. Butter was discovered, not invented: a container of raw milk, carried by horse or a rickety cart over a bumpy road, turns itself into butter, as it is the simple process of agitation that causes the cream to separate and solidify.

In Sonoma County’s earliest years, dairy farmers made their living by selling butter, not milk, because of the lack of refrigeration needed to distribute fresh milk. The whey, sometimes called buttermilk, was fed to other farm animals, especially pigs.

Butter concentrates milk’s flavors, and its character depends on what the cows, sheep, or goats eat. Animals that graze on fresh grass produce the richest, most nutritious, and most delicious milk. It is a gift of sunlight, captured by tender blades of spring grass.

Sonoma currently has three commercial butter producers: Clover Sonoma, Straus Family Creamery, and Petaluma Creamery. Local butter is truly one of our sweetest, freshest treasures in spring.

Butter Mochi

Makes about 24 squares Butter mochi highlights the voluptuous texture of spring butter better than almost any other sweet, and it is very easy to make at home. It’s also naturally gluten-free.

• 2 teaspoons butter, at room temperature, to line baking pan

•1 pound mochiko (sweet rice flour)

• 2 ½ cups granulated sugar

• 2 teaspoons baking powder

• 1 teaspoon kosher salt

• 2 12-ounce cans full-fat coconut milk

• 5 large farm eggs, well beaten

• 4 ounces local butter, melted

• 1 teaspoon vanilla

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

Cut a sheet of parchment or wax paper to fit the bottom of a 9 x 13-inch baking pan and secure it in place with a dab of butter. Lightly coat the paper as well as the sides and corners of the pan with butter.

Put the mochiko, sugar, baking powder, and salt in a medium mixing bowl and stir with a fork to blend well.

Put the coconut milk into another medium mixing bowl and whisk until smooth. Add the beaten eggs, and whisk together. Add the melted butter and vanilla, mix thoroughly, and add the dry ingredients, whisking or mixing with an electric mixer until very smooth.

Pour the batter into the prepared pan, set on the middle rack of the oven, and bake until the mixture is set but not too firm, about 1 to 1 ¼ hours. The mochi should have a golden crust over the top. Remove from the oven and cool until you can handle the pan. Invert the butter mochi onto a wire rack, remove the parchment paper, invert onto a work surface, and slide back onto the rack.
Let cool to room temperature, cut into squares, and arrange on a platter. Enjoy right away or refrigerate, covered, until 30 minutes before serving. Butter mochi will keep refrigerated for about three days.

Local Chefs Win $500,000 Investment on ‘Shark Tank’

After nearly losing their fledgling truffle business during the pandemic, two former French Laundry chefs recently charmed billionaire Mark Cuban into investing $501,000 in their revamped cooking class and meal kit concept — which, of course, includes plenty of truffles.

Tyler Vorce and Jason McKinney, who starred on a recent episode of ABC’s reality show “Shark Tank,” are the owners of Bay Area-based Truffle Shuffle, along with McKinney’s wife, Sarah, who also worked at the Michelin-starred Yountville restaurant. “Shark Tank” introduces budding entrepreneurs to multimillionaire and billionaire tycoons, “sharks,” who are willing to invest in the entrepreneurs’ businesses in exchange for equity — if they are sufficiently impressed by their pitches.

The two Truffle Shuffle business partners spent months rehearsing their pitch to the “Shark Tank” investors before participating on the show. Once they were on the show, they got several nibbles. But it was Cuban who ultimately offered the $501,000 loan in exchange for an 18% stake in the company.

Vorce and the McKinneys launched their business in 2018 as a way for chefs to ethically source truffles from Italy. Things were off to a good start until March 2020, when all of their restaurant accounts dried up and the team was left with 20 pounds of highly perishable truffles worth $1,000 per pound, according to Jason McKinney.

A serendipitous request from a private club for an online cooking class, featuring home-delivered ingredients for truffle risotto, turned things around. The online event sold out in a few hours and so did Truffle Shuffle’s entire inventory.

In a daring move, the company began pivoting to weekly online cooking master classes with meal prep kits sent in advance. At around $99 per class, they soon became popular; Sarah McKinney said they’ve cooked in front of more than 100,000 viewers since last year. (You can watch the classes for free on Instagram or on Truffle Shuffle’s YouTube channel.)

The pivot paid off. Shuffle Truffle now employs more than 40 people who work out of the company’s new Oakland headquarters. Their virtual cooking classes are hosted by special guests such as Snoop Dogg.

Truffle Shuffle has a number of upcoming classes planned, including one on how to make the Crepes Suzette shown on “Shark Tank,” Spiced Lamb Loin and Kurabota Pork Belly. On-demand classes ship out ingredients for Black Truffle Risotto, Lemon Ricotta Gnocchi and a Truffle Cheese Board with cheeses from Cowgirl Creamery and Cypress Grove along with their Truffle Honey.

Check out their offerings, including private events, at truffleshufflesf.com.

Surprise Sculpture Garden Transforms Overlooked Space in Sebastopol

Two kinetic sculptures designed by artist Ned Kahn to move in the wind in the temporary “Air Garden” on the site of the future Hotel Sebastopol on Friday, December 11, 2020. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

Ned Kahn’s uniquely engineered kinetic artwork — all hinged squares, flapping chain mail, patterns, and shapes — is displayed in public places around the globe and someday soon it could fly aboard the International Space Station. Though usually constructed on a grand scale — resulting in huge, reflective expanses that respond to wind and shifting air currents — Khan’s latest endeavor treats his Sebastopol neighbors to a temporary collection of smaller pieces right downtown, on Depot Street.

On the site of the future Hotel Sebastopol, artist and MacArthur genius grant winner Ned Kahn has created a kinetic installation called the “Air Garden.”

Kahn and his “trusty right arm,” Santa Rosa artist and ceramicist Todd Barricklow, erected the sculptures on the future site of Hotel Sebastopol — a development project currently on hold because of the pandemic. Kahn and Barricklow are calling the 1¼-acre area the “Air Garden,” a tribute to Kahn’s fascination with structures that make air visible — and, he hopes, render it more vibrant in the consciousness of those who see his work.

The sculpture garden is temporarily enclosed by a chain-link fence, for safety and security reasons, but Kahn hopes there will soon be opportunities to invite the public to experience the work up close. And when his crew is done moving heavy equipment and cranes around the lot, he plans to seed native grasses and flowering plants, creating “a little oasis of nature, kind of embedded in the heart of the town.”

Looking upward through a 30-foot "Twisted Tower" covered in laser cut teflon squares designed to move in the wind in a temporary "Air Garden" created by artist Ned Kahn on the site of the future Hotel Sebastopol on Friday, December 11, 2020. (Photo by John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Looking upward through a 30-foot “Twisted Tower” covered in laser cut teflon squares designed to move in the wind in a temporary “Air Garden” created by artist Ned Kahn on the site of the future Hotel Sebastopol. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

Already there’s a 30-foot twisting tower of white Teflon pieces, a large “wind hammock” stretching 44 feet across, a series of sunset-colored panels, and a suspended circular piece that looks like a dream catcher. Passersby “have been so nice,” says Kahn. “That’s been probably the funnest part of the whole thing. All the feedback has been super positive.”

Kahn, who was named a MacArthur Fellow in 2003 (winning what’s commonly known as the “genius grant”) is best known for huge, shimmering arrays of metal and other materials set in motion by the air. He wants to do more than make strikingly vivid artwork, however. He hopes to inspire love for the air that animates it.

His work has always shown a fascination with physics and movement — the ways in which fog and light, sand, or even seeds can be coaxed and manipulated into intriguing scenes of beauty. “If you could alter people’s sense of stewardship and love for the Earth and the atmosphere and the air, then maybe you could change the way they feel about the air. Because the air, being invisible, it’s so easy to forget about it,” explains Kahn. Make it visible, he says, and people will remember.

“I guess my hope — and maybe it’s just a fantasy — is that some small number of people, when they see the air, how beautiful it is, it will shift their thinking, their relationship with the air and kind of fall in love… You love your kids so much you would do anything for your kids. If you had that same feeling, or even a trace of it, for the air …” he says, his voice trailing off.

Fantastic Mother’s Day Gifts under $100 from Sonoma Stores

Mom may have told you she has everything she needs, but was she thinking about spectacular geode coasters when she said that? This Mother’s Day, give her that little thing of beauty she didn’t know she wanted or needed — a visit to a few Sonoma County boutiques might reveal just the perfect gift. Of course, that doesn’t get you off the hook for spending the gift of time together. But as far as giving things goes, here’s a list of some of our favorites, all under $100. Click through the above gallery for details.

This Modern Design Hotel in Healdsburg Offers Inspiration for Your Home

H2hotel in Healdsburg is an eco-friendly design gem. The boutique hotel — one of four in the Piazza Hospitality collection — opened in 2010 and showcases an innovative approach to both sustainability and aesthetics, blending the two by incorporating natural elements in the design.

Architecture firm David Baker + Partners designed the hotel and Marie Fisher Interior Design, a San Francisco based design studio, created the interior design. The hotel is LEED NC Gold certified (LEED NC — New Construction — is a rating system that promotes the design and construction of high-performance green buildings). The decor is modern and pared-down, but a few design surprises — bold colors and patterns, green walls and roofs, artwork and colorful design objects — contribute to a rich visual experience.

A stay at the hotel or a visit to the property’s restaurant, Spoonbar, offers an opportunity to immerse yourself in the hotel’s design. While you can’t stay at the hotel forever, you can take home some design inspiration to apply to your own space. Click through the above gallery for a few design concepts that this beauty of a hotel does so well.

10 Sonoma Wineries with Gorgeous Gardens

There’s something special about spring in Sonoma County. Wildflowers bloom along country roads and in vineyard rows, with emerald green hills in the background. At wineries, bees start buzzing in culinary gardens while visitors sip wine on terraces and patios. On a sunny day, the whole area looks spectacular but some wineries are especially eye-catching come spring with carefully landscaped gardens full of roses, tulips, daffodils and other beautiful plants beckoning visitors to step outside. We’ve listed a few of our favorite Sonoma County winery gardens in the gallery above. Did we miss your favorite winery garden? Let us know in the comments below.

4 Sonoma County Parks Where You Can Hike with Cows

Oak trees, hikers and cows at Crane Creek Regional Park in Rohnert Park. (Sonoma County Regional Parks)

Click through the above gallery for things to think about when you hike near cattle.

For those in search of a new hiking adventure, Sonoma County Regional Parks boast a plethora of trails that motivate us to get outside more often. From seaside strolls to mountain climbs, there’s something for everyone to explore. Trails with vineyard views remind hikers of how wineries and agriculture shape this area, but there are other reminders of our agricultural roots that like to pop up along the route.

Cows graze in four Sonoma County regional parks: seasonally at Taylor Mountain, Crane Creek and North Sonoma Mountain, and year-round at Tolay Lake Regional Park. The cows are owned and managed by local ranchers, not the park system. Along with providing a share-worthy photo (taken at a distance, of course), cattle grazing in parks help reduce wildfire risk and offer a host of other benefits.

“Well-managed livestock grazing plays a vital ecological role in maintaining California’s grasslands,” says Lulu Waks, Park Program Supervisor, Sonoma County Regional Parks. “Grazing prevents conversion of grasslands to shrublands – a common successional trend in California’s Coast Ranges when disturbance by grazing or fire is absent – and this conversion can cause a loss of grassland plants and animals.”

Grazing also helps prevent the buildup of thatch, or dead plant material. Accumulation of plant matter can stave off the germination and growth of many native species and cause a decline in biodiversity.

Cows roam Tolay Lake Regional Park year-round, but it’s up to Mother Nature to decide when livestock will appear at the Taylor Mountain, Crane Creek and North Sonoma Mountain parks. Cattle are traditionally brought to parks when winter rains set in and stay until the grass dries, approximately December through May or June. But if winter rains arrive late or, in the case of this year, hardly come at all, the timeline can change.

Cows are not aggressive by nature and tend to keep to themselves, but there are things outdoor enthusiasts can do to help humans and animals enjoy their day in the park.

“If cattle are blocking the trail, approach them slowly, speak normally, and allow them to move away,” says Waks. “If they don’t move away on their own, provide a wide berth by walking around them off-trail.”

If you come across a calf that appears to be alone, leave it be. Mom is often nearby; remember to never get between a cow and her calf. If a cow doesn’t look well or is acting aggressive, make a note of the animal’s location and, if you can easily see it, the number on its ear tag. Report what you saw to the park officials and they’ll take it from there.

At first, sharing trails with cows might feel a little intimidating, but with knowledge and time, an encounter with cows can become a memorable experience, while at the same time serving as a reminder of where our food comes from and how grazing can be beneficial to the landscape.

“Livestock, like all wild animals, should be treated with respect – and, yes, watch where you step,” says Waks.

Sip Wine Along the Trail On Guided Spring Hikes in Sonoma County

Sonoma County boasts some of the best hiking trails in Northern California. The mild weather allows for year-round outdoor activities but spring may be one of our favorite seasons to explore the area on foot. This spring, local wineries and hotels are offering guided hikes with boxed lunches and wine tastings. Click through the gallery above for three guided hikes to sign up for this spring. Did we miss one of your favorites? Leave a comment below.

City Garden Doughnuts Closing Santa Rosa Bakery

Brioche donuts at City Garden Donuts in Santa Rosa. (Heather Irwin / The Press Democrat)

 We’ve got a doughnut hole in our heart because April 18 will be the last day to get your hands on a fresh maple bacon brioche doughnut at City Garden Doughnuts before the 4-year-old artisan bakery closes its doors.

Cue agonized screaming.

But fear not fried dough lovers, because the renowned Johnny Doughnuts will take up residence just a few weeks later at the same east Santa Rosa location. In addition to doughnuts, the new shop will serve up Crodoughs (a take on Cronuts, or croissant doughnuts), Bismarks (aka jelly doughnuts), cinnamon rolls, wheat-free doughnuts, vegan doughnuts and Equator coffee and tea.

It’s a bittersweet goodbye to Alan and Terri McCandless, who launched one of Sonoma County’s first farm-to-fryer doughnutteries, using local produce for their glazes, local bacon, Guisto flour, and other high-quality ingredients at the much-loved Fourth Street bakery.

It’s not an exaggeration to say their doughnuts provided stress relief over the last year, opening each week to swarms of sweet-lovers picking up their treats in a time of COVID.

 The couple say they’re ready for new adventures (not in the food business) and met Johnny Doughnut owner Craig Blum several months ago. Their passions for high-quality pastries jived, and Blum’s expansion from a simple food truck to a Bay Area artisan bakery staple impressed Alan McCandless.

“We were the only two people in the North Bay in the same doughnut world,” said McCandless. “We started talking about the future of artisanal doughnuts and what that looked like and after seeing how far advanced (Johnny Doughnuts) were, and able to maintain a great product, we said, ‘It’s time for Johnny Doughnuts to enter Sonoma County,’” he said.

“We would not feel good bowing out if they weren’t coming in,” McCandless added.

Thus, a deal was struck and by early May, Johnny Doughnuts will open in Santa Rosa.

Blum, who says he will retain existing City Garden employees and bring in additional staff, says he’s excited about the opportunity to get involved in the community.

“Santa Rosa is so community-oriented and neighborly and we’re always looking for opportunities to help out in these crazy times,” said Blum. His doughnut trucks provided pastries for first responders during recent fires and hospital workers during the pandemic.

But the real question is, how are the doughnuts?

Though Johnny Doughnuts doesn’t use brioche dough, like City Garden Doughnuts, they’ve got their own special recipe from the 1920s that uses potatoes as the secret ingredient.

If the pictures are any indication, we’ll be in good hands. Stay tuned for more details and taste testing soon.

Duke’s Founders Make Surprise Announcement, Depart From Healdsburg Bar

Duke founders Steven Maduro, Tara Heffernon, Laura Sanfilippo and Cappy Sorentino. Courtesy photo.

On the cusp of the five-year anniversary of Duke’s Spirited Cocktails in Healdsburg, the four founders of the popular farm-to-glass bar have parted ways and departed from their business. The decision leaves the bar and a forthcoming restaurant in flux during the transition to new management.

Longtime friends Tara Heffernon, Laura Sanfilippo, Cappy Sorentino and Steven Maduro made the announcement last week with little explanation following the delayed opening of Burdock, their new small plates and cocktails restaurant in Healdsburg. The four met while working at nearby Spoonbar and decided to launch a craft cocktail bar of their own.

Founding investor David Ducommon (nicknamed “Duke” and the bar’s namesake) will continue to be involved in the business, according to Aaron Flores (formerly of Brass Rabbit), who was recently tapped as the new general manager of Duke’s. Bartenders Chris Baker (Jackson’s Bar and Oven, Perch and Plow) and Marilyn Rodriguez (Perch and Plow) are currently running the bar program and will help with the transition.

“(Ducommon) will stay on and wants to keep the bar alive. He tried to keep (the founding partners) on, but they were not in agreement,” Flores said. “COVID has done a number on people, and it just wore everyone down.”

Ducommon did not immediately respond to a request for an interview. Flores said he is actively looking for staff as talented as Heffernon and Sanfilippo to take over the bar program at Duke’s. According to Flores, the goal is to open Burdock in late May with chef Sean Kelley (formerly of Underwood Bar and Bistro) at the helm.

Though the four partners have been tight-lipped about their decision to part ways just as they were about to open a new restaurant, Sanfilippo said that, despite the abruptness of the announcement, the split was amicable.

“We’re all still the best of friends. We’re deciding to part ways and do our own thing. Tara (Heffernon) and I went through the most difficult year for restaurants and bars and we’re ready to relax, see family and start new chapters,” she said, adding that a new business was on the horizon at some point.

Sorentino said the split came down to a business decision between the partners and investor. “It’s a business relationship, and things happen and change. (It) was something we couldn’t resolve,” he said. Sorentino will continue to work for an offshoot business of Duke’s, a canned cocktail line called Cappy Shakes.

Duke’s became known as a bar that highlighted the flavors, spirits and produce of Sonoma County in playful and creative ways.

“For me, and all of us, we were just so proud of what we built, and we’re humbled by the support from the community,” Sanfilippo said. “(It was) something really special, and that’s 100% because of the team. We’re family. I’m excited to recreate that in a new spot someday.”