Peek Inside the Renovated Flamingo Resort in Santa Rosa

Flamingo Resort pool
The pool area at Flamingo Resort in Santa Rosa. (Stephanie Russo / Flamingo Resort)

It’s been a while since any Hollywood celebrities or jet-setters were spotted poolside at the Flamingo Resort in Santa Rosa. But following a recent renovation, reported to have cost nearly $20 million, the property is once again shaping up as a place to be seen.

An old-school, Vegas-style neon sign still welcomes guests as they arrive at the Flamingo. But when they pull up to the new porte-cochère, they’ll discover that the mid-century hotel has received a facelift that makes it look both stylishly retro and contemporary sleek. At the resort entrance, floor-to-ceiling windows now frame the pool and courtyard area beyond. It is a good spot for a picture — but you might just want to keep your phone handy, the photogenic lobby is just steps away.

Upon entering the resort, your eyes are immediately drawn to a large mural created by San Francisco artist Serge Gay, Jr. An explosion of color, it depicts a lobby receptionist called Monroe, who is busy taking room calls while channeling Marilyn. Don’t forget to look up: a chandelier that combines pendant lamps with foliage and feathers is another playful design element in the lobby.

Instead of a traditional front desk, guests are greeted at a counter that resembles a kitchen island. The intention behind this more informal layout was to make guests feel as if they are entering a home, rather than a business, said Wendi Gelfound, director of sales and marketing at the Flamingo Resort.

The lobby mural at the Flamingo Resort is titled Hello, Checking In? It was created by San Francisco-based artist Serge Gay, Jr. (Courtesy of Flamingo Resort)
Sonoma County Library Jayne Mansfield in Santa Rosa at the pool at The Flamingo Hotel, 1960.
Jayne Mansfield poses by the pool at The Flamingo Hotel in Santa Rosa, 1960. (Sonoma County Library)

Set on 10 acres, the Flamingo Resort boasts 170 rooms and suites located in five two-story buildings. Built in 1957, the hotel has been carefully modernized to retain its 1950s charm. Along with comfortable beds and USB ports, guests will find fun retro touches in their rooms, like mint green Trimline telephones and matching tea kettles. Soothing color schemes, teak millwork and abundant natural light come together to create a relaxing vibe and nostalgic ambiance. There’s even a family room with bunk beds for kids.

Scattered throughout the property are half a dozen custom-made pieces by Bay Area artists. Guests are encouraged to wander the grounds to take in the artwork — the HYBYCOZO garden sculpture at the hotel entrance takes on a whole new life after the sun goes down as it glows in the dark. Returning guests should take a closer look at the rope art installation by San Francisco based artist Windy Chien, which hangs in the resort’s event foyer, in what was previously the hotel lobby. If you have memories of what this space used to look like, you might have trouble believing your eyes.

With an eye toward sustainability, hydration stations have been installed throughout hotel grounds. All rooms have refillable glass water pitchers as well as refillable toiletry dispensers in an effort to cut down on single-use plastics.

Renovated guest room at Santa Rosa’s Flamingo Resort. (Courtesy of Flamingo Resort)
Midcentury modern touches at Santa Rosa’s Flamingo Resort. (Courtesy of Flamingo Resort)

With California set to fully reopen by mid-June, the staff at the Flamingo has high hopes for the summer season and beyond. In addition to returning guests sharing memories of the resort with their families, the hotel is hoping to attract younger, millennial travelers.

“We think that people will look to something that’s fresh, a little different, it’s not a cookie-cutter box. It’s still very approachable in price and it has amenities,” said Wendi Gelfound.

A neighborhood hotel that once hosted Hollywood luminaries like Jayne Mansfield and Frankie Avalon, the Flamingo has plenty of stories from halcyon days spent by the pool. Heated year-round, the pool and spacious inner courtyard will continue to serve as the social hub of the property. A list of poolside plans are in the works, including a vintage trailer that will be converted into a bar, and a cold water bucket experience which guests will be able to pair with a dip in the hot tub.

The new Lazeaway Club restaurant offers indoor and outdoor dining by the pool from a menu with a Cal-Pacific twist (read the review here). The pop-up Wild Bird, which gained a loyal following during the pandemic, will offer more casual poolside service and some of its menu items will be available for in-room dining, too. Work is also being finished on a music lounge, with hopes of hosting a series of outdoor concerts this summer.

The second Sunday of every month, guests and community members are welcome to take part in the resort’s self-care series, hosted in partnership with Montecito Heights Health Club and Spa. Activities like Vinyasa yoga, Shamanic breath work and sound healing with Tibetan singing bowls take place throughout the day. An additional fee is required.

Flamingo Resort, 2777 4th St, Santa Rosa, 707-545-8530, flamingoresort.com. Rates start at $189 a night, plus a $29 experience fee. Resort guests have access to the Montecito Heights Health Club and Spa.

10 Ways to Spruce up Your Home Without Spending a Lot of Time or Money

Who doesn’t love a little home makeover? But who loves endless hours of DIY? Here are some home design tips that are easy to implement but can have a big impact on your space. Once you start small, and enjoy the huge rewards, you might be tempted to do another small task. But don’t worry, we’re not suggesting that you demo your shower or pull out the paint tarps. We asked a few local designers for ways they make homes shine with just a little bit of effort and a small investment. Click through the above gallery for details.

Maker Festival Coming to Sonoma County Fairgrounds This Weekend

The Patchwork Show Modern Makers Festival, which has welcomed 500,000 people to shop local in cities across the U.S. for the past 13 years, is coming to Santa Rosa on June 6.

Taking place at the Sonoma County Fairgrounds, the event will feature handmade finds — home decor, apparel, jewelry and more — from more than 100 vendors. It marks the beginning of a return to normal for local artisans, who, throughout the pandemic, have lost income due to shutdowns.

While many artisans have started to sell their goods online during the pandemic, craft shows like Patchwork offer an additional venue to connect with customers and other craftspersons.

“Not only do they make sales, increase brand visibility and grow their customer base but they also spend a day with other makers,” said Nicole Stevenson, a Santa Rosa-based artist and entrepreneur who organizes the festival. “Most of us creatives work alone in spare rooms or backyard studios. We don’t have a water cooler to hang around to talk shop.”

Stevenson, who owns and operates Dear Handmade Life, organized makers markets in Southern California before moving to Santa Rosa and also offers entrepreneurial coaching and community building for “creatives and passionate small business owners” through her blog, podcasts, conferences and annual maker camps.

The Santa Rosa artist likes to share the knowledge she’s gained from her own, sometimes bumpy, professional road. She started out by selling her paintings in the parking lot of the Hollywood Flea Market and on a blanket in Venice Beach alongside other artists — many of them homeless. After seeing that people were quicker to buy apparel than artwork, she put her hand-painted designs on handbags, which were sold in boutiques. As her artistic designs became increasingly popular, she began silk-screening them onto clothing.

But as Stevenson’s creative business grew, so did her sense of overwhelm. She left Southern California and moved in with a friend in Santa Rosa so she could finish a Master’s degree in English at San Francisco State University. She fell in love with the area — the country roads, the quaint little towns, the ocean and the easy access to San Francisco — and made Sonoma County her home.

Throughout her career, Stevenson has seen how artists and artisans often struggle when it comes to running a business. She realized that many could use some guidance regarding how to price their work, pivot or scale their business according to their goals, so she began offering “Craftcation Conferences,” which she jokingly calls “an MBA in a weekend.” The conferences are typically offered in Ventura, northwest of Los Angeles, but this year they are offered via Zoom.

Right now, however, Stevenson is looking forward to the in-person event at the fairgrounds, which, in addition to maker booths, will feature DIY craft stations and activities as well as music from local DJs. The family-friendly event will also have a Mini Music festival for kids with singalongs and dance from 12:30-1:30 p.m. Due to COVID-19 regulations, food will not be served at the event but attendees can check out a Yelp list of nearby restaurants created by event organizers. Booths will be placed ten feet apart, masks as well as social distancing will be required, and there will be hand sanitizing stations throughout the event area. Find more event information here.

Patchwork Show Modern Makers Festival, June 6, 2021, 11 a.m. to 5 p.m., Sonoma County Fairgrounds (outside The Hall of Flowers), 1350 Bennett Valley Rd., Santa Rosa, dearhandmadelife.com, admission is free.

9 Napa Valley Spots Locals Like to Keep Secret

With nearly four million visitors in 2023, there’s not much of Napa Valley that remains undiscovered but we’ve managed to round up 9 hidden gems that locals probably wish we wouldn’t mention. From grungy dive bars to the area’s best burrito and, yes, a burger with a cheese skirt, here’s where you can do Napa Valley like a local.

La Luna Market & Taqueria, Rutherford

Mexican markets are a dime a dozen in Napa Valley, but ask a local where to find the best burrito in town and they’ll probably direct you to La Luna, which sits in the middle of Napa Valley off the Rutherford Cross Road (a few blocks down from the iconic Rutherford Grill). Head to the back counter, where you can choose from over 20 types of meat — from carne asada to tongue to cheek — and build your own burrito, tacos, quesadilla or torta. This spot tends to get extremely busy around lunchtime, so you might want to call in your order ahead of time for pickup. Don’t leave without a bag of housemade tortilla chips. 1153 Rutherford Road, Rutherford, 707-963-3211, lalunamarket.com

Turtle Rock Bar & Cafe, Napa

The world’s best egg rolls, according to Napa locals, can be found at Turtle Rock, a 1960s institution that’s one part bar, one part general store. Hundreds, if not thousands, of dollar bills hang from the ceiling of this divey biker’s haven, which is a popular stop-off for locals heading to and from Lake Berryessa. In fact, it’s really the only place to pull over for a snack in the rural area. Turtle Rock’s giant egg rolls are so notorious that they sell over a thousand on summer weekends, but they often have other specials too, like burgers, tri-tip, pulled pork, and monthly Taco Tuesdays. 2000 Capell Valley Road, Napa, 707-966-2246

Squeeze Inn Hamburgers, Napa

This hole-in-the-wall burger joint has made appearances on multiple national media outlets, but it remains mostly undiscovered. Tucked away in North Napa’s Bel Air Plaza, the interior is nothing special, but it’s the burger with a cheese skirt (a giant ring of crispy, melted cheese that protrudes from the bun) that people come here for. There are three signature ways to eat it: fold it into the burger, wrap it over your french fries, or pull it off and eat it as a side. And while Turtle Rock has dollar bills hanging from the ceiling, Squeeze Inn has hundreds of toothpicks. You can leave your own mark by shooting one up through a straw. 3383 Solano Avenue, Napa, 707-257-6880, squeezeinnhamburgers.com

Napa Valley Olive Oil Manufacturing Company, St. Helena

Hidden down a residential St. Helena street (a few blocks from Farmstead), the Napa Valley Olive Oil Manufacturing Company is housed in an unassuming white barn. The company has been in operation since 1931 and remains family-owned and operated. This authentic Italian grocery carries salumi, sausage, bread, cheese, pasta, and more, all imported from Italy, but they are locally-famous for their olive oil, sold in multiple sizes – from souvenir and carryon-friendly mini bottles to giant jugs that will last for months. It’s also made in a myriad of flavors, from garlic and black truffle to basil and blood orange. Note: they are cash only. 835 Charter Oak Ave., St. Helena, 707-963-4173, nvoliveoilmfg.com

Cordeiro’s Steakhouse, Napa

Most Napa Valley tourists in search of a steak dinner will head to Cole’s Chop House or Charlie Palmer Steak in downtown Napa, but you won’t find better hospitality than at Cordiero’s, a classic steakhouse — think, white table cloths and Ceasar salad prepared tableside — nestled off-the-beaten-path in the east side of Napa. The meat is cooked to perfection, the service is top-notch, and they even roll out a bar cart of after-dinner drinks before bringing you the check. 2025 Monticello Road, Napa, 707-224-1960, cordeirosssteakhouse.com.

Mozzarella “al Minuto,” St. Helena

It isn’t exactly a place, but this plate of cheesy goodness is one of the most locally-beloved eats in Napa Valley and the trick is knowing where to find it. This hand-pulled, warm, gooey, and made-to-order mozzarella drizzled in olive oil and served on a garlic crostini was a signature dish at the now-defunct Tra Vigne restaurant, but luckily the tradition lives on at two other locations: sister restaurant Pizzeria Tra Vigne and Brasswood Bar + Kitchen (it’s a secret menu item here, so you’ll need to ask for it), both in St. Helena.

Linda Falls, Angwin

Skyline Wilderness Park, Bothe-Napa Valley, and Robert Louis Stevenson State Park are Napa Valley’s most frequented hiking spots, but only one local hiking trail has a waterfall and it’s not the easiest to find. Linda Falls is located in Angwin, a small town on Howell Mountain, northeast of St. Helena. The moderate trail to waterfall is short—less than a mile-and-a-half round trip—though you can extend it and the best time to go is in the spring or after rain. More often than not, you’ll be the only hiker(s) there and many people like to wade around in the pools at the bottom. To find the trailhead, you’ll need to park on the side of the road off Howell Mountain and enter the bike trail located just south of Bishop Place (we recommend parking at the open fields across from the salmon-colored house, which is just next to the trail).

Clemente’s at Val’s, Napa

This isn’t a place you’re likely to stumble upon accidentally, but inside Val’s Liquor in downtown Napa hides some of the best Italian food around—and at half the price of the local eateries. At the back of Val’s is Clemente’s, which serves up traditionally-made Italian food to go, including the notorious malfatti, which was invented in Napa in the 1920s. Named for the Italian slang word for “mistake,” malfatti is basically ravioli filling without the pasta, invented on a night when founder Theresa Tamburelli ran out of ravioli at Napa’s historic Depot Restaurant. Grab a bottle of Italian wine before you go and you’ve got the makings of a perfect night in. Lawler’s Liquors is another, perhaps even lesser-known Napa corner store offering made-from-scratch Italian takeout, located just outside downtown. Clementes, 1531 3rd St., Napa, 707-224-2237

Pancha’s of Yountville

Yountville is by far Napa Valley’s most glitzy town, packed with high-end hotels, shops and wineries — but one spot is totally unlike the others. Pancha’s is a local institution that has managed to stick around throughout Yountville’s evolution from a blue-collar farming town to a luxury destination.

At nearly 40 years old, it is indeed the oldest business on Washington Street, the town’s main drag, and it looks it. This is the definition of a dive bar. It’s cash only and, until recently, patrons were actually still allowed to smoke inside. Even if it’s not quite your scene, a quick beer at Pancha’s at the end of the evening is the best way to rub elbows with the locals. If it is your scene, you’ll want to check out Napa Valley’s other iconic dives: Anna’s Cantina in St. Helena and Susie’s Bar in Calistoga.

After shuttering during the pandemic, locals feared Pancha’s would be torn down and replaced. But Ren and Marilyn Harris, owners of Paradigm Winery in Oakville, acquired the bar in October 2023 and kept it the same — with one or two exceptions. To follow current mandates, smoking inside is no longer permitted and two ADA bathrooms have been installed. 6764 Washington St., Yountville, 707-944-2125

Dillon Beach Coastal Kitchen Reopens

The tiny private community of Dillon Beach has always been a hidden coastal gem worth exploring. With the recent reopening of Dillon Beach Resort and its small cafe, Dillon Beach Coastal Kitchen, now is an extra-special time to make the trip down the coast.

Chef Jennifer McMurray, who operates the gourmet meal-delivery business Viola Supper Club in Sonoma, has taken over the cafe’s kitchen and is offering a deceptively simple menu of burgers, fries, salads, fish and chips, mac and cheese and clam chowder. If you dig a little deeper, however, you’ll see that each dish is a tiny work of art made up of local produce, cheese, meat and bread.

We’ll tease you a little with this: vanilla bean panna cotta with organic strawberries and caramel corn. Or perhaps housemade hummus with organic sugar snap peas, asparagus and baby carrots is more to your liking? That, plus the chance for a walk along the beach and some fresh salt air, has us scrambling to get a reservation ASAP. If you’d like to stay awhile, the historic resort’s family-friendly cabins are now open, as is the charming general store and surf shop.

1 Beach Ave., Dillon Beach, dillonbeachresort.com

This article is from this week’s BiteClub column, read more here. 

Crumbl Cookies Opens in Santa Rosa

When was the last time you had a warm cookie, just out of the oven, all gooey in your hot little hands? If it’s been longer than you can remember, it’s time for some self-love at Crumbl, a new bakery devoted to saucer-size gourmet cookies in rotating flavors like Andes Mint, Kentucky Butter, Churro, Peanut Butter Chocolate Chip, Rocky Road and Confetti Cake. Their signature milk chocolate and sugar cookies are permanent fixtures.

The open-kitchen bakery at 2154 Santa Rosa Ave. in Santa Rosa has had lines out the door since opening in late April. Offering cookies only, Crumbl is a national chain of more than 200 bakeries throughout the country. The mission of its two founders was simple — to create the perfect chocolate chip cookie. The Santa Rosa location is the first in Sonoma County and the only Crumbl bakery in the North Bay (there’s another in Brentwood in the East Bay).

You’ll likely want a friend — or five — to help you devour all six flavors. Or you’ll do like we did: just keep nibbling away at them for a few days as they taunt you on the kitchen counter. Each cookie is $4 and is served in an adorable pink box. You can please a crowd or a party with the 12-pack for $35.25. Cold milk is, of course, available as well. Crumbl offers delivery and pickup.

2154 Santa Rosa Ave., Santa Rosa, 707-324-1781, crumblcookies.com/santarosa

This article is from this week’s BiteClub column, read more here

Favorite Sonoma Spots for Yummy Sushi, Authentic Noodles

Makimono Deluxe Sushi Platter at Hana Japanese Restaurant in Rohnert Park on Tuesday, April 28, 2020. (Erik Castro/for The Press Democrat)

Food brings us all to the table. No matter where you hail from or what kind of food you grew up on, every opportunity to eat is a celebration in our book. May is Asian American and Pacific Islander Heritage Month and we’re celebrating this occasion by paying homage to a few of our favorite AAPI-owned restaurants in Sonoma County. Click through the above gallery for details. This list isn’t comprehensive, so let us know your favorites in the comments.

Around Town with Sebastopol Prop Stylist Alysia Andriola

Sebastopol prop stylist Alysia Andriola has an enviable job, telling stories with objects and working alongside photographers to create eye-catching displays for products from peanut butter to protein bars.

Andriola found her path years ago, while visiting her brother, also a stylist, in New York City. She found herself assisting on a photo shoot and jumped in to choose a platter and linens for a setup with a Thanksgiving turkey.

The client? Gourmet magazine. Andriola’s work was chosen for the cover of their Thanksgiving issue — the prop stylist equivalent of stumbling onto the field during the Super Bowl to score a winning touchdown.

Andriola describes her signature style as fluid, intuitive — and sometimes a little messy. “I’m drawn to textures and shapes. I like to evoke the unseen, too,” she says. She’s quick to point out that behind every aspirational image is a team of artists and hours of preparation. “In my work you carve out this little beautiful moment and it’s really not that big — everywhere else, it’s chaos and confusion. It’s lights and stands, boxes and bins and trash — and our coffees,” she says, laughing.

The Sebastopol home she shares with her teenage son mirrors this contrast. It’s filled with the ceramics she collects, along with her son’s music equipment and boxes of finds in various stages of packing and unpacking for shoots.

Juxtaposition is her muse: witness an oil-stained drip pan, found on the side of the road and now a go-to backdrop for product shoots. Or a scratched sheet of scrap metal with a reflective quality that she explains will photograph beautifully. Creating beautiful moments in an imperfect world — that’s definitely worth aspiring to.

‘In Danger Species’: Petaluma Artist Portrays Black American Experience

Artist Orin Carpenter at his art studio in Novato, Calif., on Sunday, March 14, 2021. (Beth Schlanker/ The Press Democrat)

As Orin Carpenter tells it, his art career began at age 5, with painting on walls. He and his mother had just returned from the library, and he needed to paint. “This was one of those days where I ran out of paper. I was like, ‘You know what? I gotta get this out.’” Seeing the white wall, he couldn’t resist.

Carpenter’s interests have led him from his native Memphis to the Bay Area, from graphic design into a career as an artist and educator. Today, he’s a whirl of activity: teaching art at Marin Catholic, completing a doctorate in educational technology, leading workshops on art and racial justice, and, of course, making art in his studio.

Recently, he’s been immersed in two series: “Quarantine State of Mind,” abstract paintings navigating this past year, and “In Danger Species,” mixed-media meditations on the experience of living while Black in America. Carpenter had been marinating on the ideas behind the latter for some time. Then last year, when Ahmaud Arbery was killed in Georgia, “I said, ‘You know what? I can’t sit on this anymore. I have to create.’ It was more for me to express and have an outlet from the anger, you know? George Floyd and Breonna Taylor, the countless others. That gave the energy for that series.”

Artist Orin Carpenter at his art studio in Novato, Calif., on Sunday, March 14, 2021. (Beth Schlanker / The Press Democrat)
Artist Orin Carpenter at his art studio in Novato, Calif., on Sunday, March 14, 2021. (Beth Schlanker / The Press Democrat)

Carpenter has just been named an artist in residence at MarinMOCA, where he’ll have a solo exhibit this December, and shows his work at the Artize Gallery in Palm Springs. Carpenter has been sheltering-in-place — and teaching high school art remotely — from Petaluma, where he lives with his wife Mickele, son Kaleb, daughter Kyndall, and the family’s two rescue cats, Lando and Phasma.

Here’s how artist Orin Carpenter spends a day. (This is from a Sonoma Magazine series “A day with …” in which we follow local people doing interesting work in Sonoma County). 

4:30 a.m. I’m an early riser. I usually wake up anywhere from 4 to 5. Once I get up, being a Christian, I pray and read devotion and kind of start the day.

6:00 a.m. Sometimes I start working here, with my sketches. Then I have to get out of the space, and being outside is a refresher for me.

A variety of brushes inside artist Orin Carpenter's art studio in Novato, Calif., on Sunday, March 14, 2021. (Beth Schlanker/ The Press Democrat)
A variety of brushes inside artist Orin Carpenter’s art studio in Novato. (Beth Schlanker / The Press Democrat)

7:00 a.m. Early on a weekend morning, when it’s quiet, I’ll wander around downtown Petaluma, kind of meditate, sketch there. I’ll go to Starbucks, get a white chocolate mocha, and maybe a chocolate croissant. (I mean, might as well overdo it with the chocolate!) Then I visit Brian’s Comics. And I don’t care how old you are — you feel like a kid when you walk in the place. I love going there; chatting with Brian about movies, books, writing; and then, of course, buying comic books. It just revives that energy — it reminds me of being a little boy going into the library.

10:00 a.m. I come home, start looking at notes. Right now, I’m working on concepts for some landscapes. I travel a lot with my family, and one of our favorite spots is Italy. I want to revisit Menaggio, because I just love the feel there. It’s funny, because I actually called it “home.” There’s something about it that’s comforting. So, I think of words that kind of go with “home” and Menaggio, start thinking about the color palettes there. I take photos and look at the color schemes and things that were there, and see if I connect with those, and, if so, are those the pieces and colors I want to put in my piece? Then I start playing with the values of those colors, kind of mapping out that series.

1:30 p.m. Because I’m painting, I create lunch here, to take a break and come back and paint. My wife and I joke about Italy. We do our rocket lettuce salad with Gorgonzola cheese and balsamic dressing and glaze, with candied pecans.

The multimedia piece titled "Sick and Tired" by artist Orin Carpenter at his art studio in Novato, Calif., on Sunday, March 14, 2021. (Beth Schlanker / The Press Democrat)
The multimedia piece titled “Sick and Tired” by artist Orin Carpenter at his art studio in Novato. (Beth Schlanker / The Press Democrat)

2:30 p.m. I have another virtual workshop coming up, where we actually use art as a vehicle to have these uncomfortable conversations, dealing with racial injustice. I like to be overprepared, so I make sure all the technical aspects are done, do a test run, and think about trouble spots, how to maneuver through that.

6:00 p.m. The family, we love trying restaurants. I think that’s the beauty of Northern California — you can find great places. La Rosa in Santa Rosa is our top one (500 Fourth St., 707-523-3663). Their carne asada is good, the risotto relleno is good, and the tequila shrimp is one of my favorites. I’ll get something and Mickele will get something, and we’ll try things out.

8:30 p.m. At night, it’s kind of doing a checklist: making sure I had a good stopping point for the creative work I’m doing, seeing if there are other materials I need — making sure I have all the elements, so when I continue to work on it, it doesn’t interrupt the flow. Emails go out for school and my PhD work. Kind of shutting everything down, making sure everything has been taken care of before I can go to sleep.

To see more of Petaluma artist Otis Carpenter’s recent work, visit orincarpenter.com

Americana Opens in Santa Rosa with Locally Sourced Comfort Food

Roasted garlic ranch burger at Americana Restaurant in Santa Rosa’s Railroad Square. (Kelsey Joy Photography)

When Americana opened last March, it was a dream come true for Samantha and Ryan Ramey. The owners of Estero Cafe in Valley Ford had saved for years with the hopes of bringing their field-to-fork diner fare to Santa Rosa.

So it seemed like kismet when the former Pullman Cafe space on Fifth Street in Railroad Square became available. The storied location once housed Josh Silvers’ Syrah restaurant, an incubator for many top kitchen talents in the North Bay. The Rameys leaped just in time for a pandemic to turn everything upside down.

Over the last year, they tried just about everything to keep their new restaurant open. Ultimately, though, they put Americana into hibernation and turned their focus to Estero.

Now they’re ready for another go.

With Americana still in startup mode, the menu is evolving. It’s an ode to classic American comfort food. Think ’50s favorites like burgers, milkshakes, fried chicken and onion rings with a side of the best pie you’ve ever had, but sustainably sourced from local farms and ranchers.

Think holy grail French fries cooked in beef tallow. Yes, just like the original McDonald’s fries that really did taste good. The fat is bought from Stemple Creek (as is the beef for the burgers) and rendered in house. It’s not a simple process, but the results are undeniable.

The couple recently built a walk-up takeout area to make dining from Americana even easier, with the full menu plus some extra baked goodies.

They’ve been open just a few weeks, and Samantha said the menu isn’t exactly what they’d planned originally. They’ve simplified a bit as they ramp up — there are no breakfasts (Estero’s signature) yet. Samantha said she hopes to include more plated entrees in the future.

But even in its infancy, Americana is the kind of uncomplicated, from-the-heart food that’s a panacea for the culinary doldrums and mental fatigue we’re all ready to put behind us.

Best Bets

Corn Dogs, $8.50: Dogs first, corn second. The crispy batter shell is a delight, but the snappy, beefy, salty hot dogs from Stemple Creek are outstanding. Served with house ranch or mustard sauce.

Blue Cheese/Mushroom/Bacon Burger, $21: This is a mouthful of a burger, piled with roasted trumpet mushrooms, fresh lettuce, bacon, homemade aioli and onions on a Village Bakery bun. Our only qualm is that the grass-fed beef could be cooked a little more rare to really get that juiciness we love.

Fried Chicken Sandwich, $19: Juicy, juicy, juicy breast of fried chicken with a light fry. It has more chicken than breading, and coleslaw gives it a second layer of crunch.

Cobb Salad, $18: The fresh ingredients set this salad apart. Butter lettuce with farm-fresh egg, bacon and blue cheese with housemade ranch. Instead of a ribbon for participation, this salad gets a gold medal.

Done For You Salad, $15: You pick the ingredients, and they make it. Think salad bar without the sticky tongs and sneeze guard.

Homemade Hostess Cake: It’s not a Ho-Ho; it’s an oh-my-goodness chocolate experience for one. Pastry chef Jenny Malicki doesn’t overload this devilish dessert with too much sugar, and she lets the chocolate on chocolate speak for itself.

Pies: Crusts always seem to be a waste of calories and the fillings far too sweet for my taste. Malicki’s strawberry-rhubarb pie is the exception. Buttery dough is cooked to a crisp crust with layer upon layer of flakes. Tart rhubarb and fresh in-season strawberries make this the best pie around. Whole pies are $40, daily hand pies are $7.

American Tacos: These weren’t officially on the menu yet. They are a nostalgic tribute to Midwestern moms, with the soft crunch of fried flour tortillas and hamburger, lettuce, sour cream and tomatoes for the win.

Milkshakes, $8: A creamy vanilla shake is a wonder. Made with Straus ice cream, these aren’t full of stabilizer and artificial flavors and gums, but actual milk and vanilla beans. Taste the difference. Try a float with Revive Kombucha root beer for a special treat.

Americana, 205 Fifth St., Santa Rosa, 707-755-1548, americanasr.com. Online ordering available. Hours are currently 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. Thursday, 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. Friday and Saturday and 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Sunday.