Best Thing I Ate in Sonoma County, 2019

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Butternut Ravioli—K&L Bistro, Sebastopol: So old school, but I knew the minute I tasted this, it was going on the list. Creamy brown butter, not-overly-sweet butternut ravioli, morel mushrooms. So often done wrong, it's cause for celebration when done so right. (Heather Irwin)

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Smoked Chicken Salad—Food Mechanic, Sebastopol: Perfect greens, gently smoked shredded chicken, blue cheese, almonds, raisins, fresh dill. Every bite is a little different. Also the best thing I ate during the Kincade Fires when a volunteer surprised me with after several 14-hour days of emergency food response work. Such joy. Angels truly walk among us. (Heather Irwin)

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Jok—Jam’s Joy Bungalow, Sebastopol: This Southeast Asian breakfast dish is a rare find with prickles of spicy ginger, Khao man gai sauce (a traditional Thai street food sauce of fermented soybean paste, tamari, sugar) with a custardy six-minute egg, herbs, fried shallot and green onions. You’ll never look at oatmeal the same way again. (Heather Irwin)

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Elotes—Handline, Sebastopol: Also known as Mexican street corn, this summery dish had a big moment on menus in 2019. Instead of being slathered with mayo and chili pepper, this unassuming version gets a smash of lime, with more understated creaminess and sweet corn that we won't see again until next year. (Heather Irwin)

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Umami Bomb—Fern Bar, Sebastopol: I'm an umami freak, so anything with that rich, savory, meaty flavor is noms. This dish, however, is vegan, turning shiitake "cream", brewers yeast and wild mushrooms into something extraordinary. (Heather Irwin)

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Bingo Oysters—The Shuckery, Petaluma: A mixture of Cognac, mayonnaise, Parmesan and garlic lay over the top of a tasty oyster, baked crispy and browned. Bonus points for the oyster liquor that pools inside the shell, perfumed with garlic. I’m not afraid to say I licked the shells. Even though a small child looked at me with utter disdain. (Heather Irwin)

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New Mexi Joe Burger—Chili Joe’s, Petaluma: A charbroiled beef patty is topped by mild Hatch and poblano peppers, slab of flame-charred sweet white onion and enrobed by melty Jack cheese that caramelizes around the edges. Served on a solid potato bun that holds up to the handful inside. (Heather Irwin)

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Papas Fritas—Butcher Crown Roadhouse, Petaluma: My favorite dish here was actually a squash Relleno special, and it would be mean to tell you about it in too much detail. However, this little engine that could roadhouse has continued to impress, and besides the piri-piri chicken, that papas fritas, loaded with cheese, chorizo, and happy elf juju set you straight. (Heather Irwin)

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Chocolate Eclair—Red Bird Bakery, Cotati: A magical choux pastry shell stuffed with pastry cream and topped with chocolate ganache. The magic? No matter how many you buy, at least two will disappear on the way home. (Heather Irwin)

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Tuna Belly and Sake—Shige Sushi, Sonoma: A raw piece of fish can be so heartbreakingly beautiful. Like a little slice of pink cake with layers of buttery fat. It's not a dish for everyone, but on the rare occasion you buy the really good stuff, it's worth explaining the $30 price tag to your irritated editor. Sorry, not sorry. (Heather Irwin)

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Trio of Mezze—Layla, MacArthur Place, Sonoma: Way beyond your average hummus, this trio includes baba ganoush made with zucchini instead of eggplant, giving it a sweeter, less bitter flavor, topped with pickled white raisins, dots of black garlic paste and walnuts Hummus is made with sweet English peas, again, switching up the flavor profile while keeping true to the intent. (Courtesy photo)

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Trio of Mezze at Layla restaurant at MacArthur Place in Sonoma. (Heather Irwin)

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Breakfast Concha—Tia Maria, Roseland: There is a reason I don't have a good picture of this. It's because I eat them too fast. The base is a concha -- a rich, spiced egg bread topped with a thin crust of sugar. Be warned, they are also ridiculously addictive, especially when made into a warm breakfast sandwich filled with eggs, bacon, and cheese. Sweet, savory, and worth every calorie. (Beth Schlanker)

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Butter Chicken and Chili Momos—Cumin, Santa Rosa: Discovering the difference between chicken tikka masala and butter chicken was a priceless adventure at this unassuming restaurant. A mix of Indian and Tibetan cuisine, the chicken momos with chili sauce are also one of my fave dishes of the year. (Heather Irwin)

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Banchan—Han Bul, Santa Rosa: It's like Christmas for your face. The Banchan Omakase comes with up to 20 bites of, well, whatever’s on the menu -- from raw squid in chili sauce and fish cakes to macaroni salad and pickled onions. Save it to pair up with your grilled items, kind of like a condiment. (Heather Irwin)

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Fleur Sauvage Chocolates—Chef Robert Nieto, Santa Rosa: Jackson Family Wine's resident pastry chef has started his own confection company. Now a competitor on Food Network's Holiday wars, you can watch the season finale on Dec. 22 at Willibees in Santa Rosa and taste some yummy treats. (Heather Irwin)

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Fried chicken and biscuits with a Texas margarita—Sweet T’s, Windsor: Finding emotional closure in a piece of fried chicken? At Sweet T’s you can. The reopening of this beloved bbq spot was a symbol of healing for the community in March. But good vibes only go so far, and the chicken and biscuits are as good as ever. (Heather Irwin)

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Texas margarita at Sweet T’s in Windsor. (Heather Irwin)

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Sauerbraten—Brot, Guerneville: A hunk of braised beef that falls apart faster than a jealous bridesmaid, topped with crispy shallots and pickled cabbage. (Heather Irwin)

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Seasonal Pairing—Ram’s Gate, Sonoma: I never quite found a place to write about this amazing meal, but it was such a standout (especially the dessert). It's a $140 investment (per person), but the five-course, 2.5-hour exploration (with wine pairings) is one of the most luxe in Wine Country. Give yourself plenty of time, and go on a lovely day for the full experience. (Heather Irwin)

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Seasonal pairing dessert at Ram's Gate Winery in Sonoma. (Heather Irwin)

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Estate Tour and Tasting—Jordan Winery, Healdsburg: Oh. My. God. Probably one of the best meals I had all year. The gardens, the estate, the decor, the food. Sadly, you won't be able to try it again until next May, but Chef Todd Knoll serves up tiny pairings of that are almost too cute and delicious to eat. On the Estate Tour, you'll be part of the well-heeled who get to experience this Sonoma wonderland. $125 per person. (Heather Irwin)

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Worth the drive: Clam chowder—Tony’s Seafood, Marshall: Hog Island owner John Finger developed this recipe with two absolutes, no flour to thicken it and only fresh clams. Hog Island grows Manila clams in addition to oysters, so the sweet little clams are piled high in the bowl, shells on, making it an interactive experience as well as a tasty one. It’s heavy on the good stuff, aromatic herbs, fresh cream and bacon, and light on the fillers (potatoes and carrots). This is what chowder should always be and rarely ever achieves. (Heather Irwin)