Is that a hint of Clear Lake I’m detecting in my wine?

Could be. If you’re drinking some of Napa and Sonoma’s most popular wines you may be getting more than just a whiff of Lake County grapes. With its hot summer days, accelerated growing season and cheap land (by northern California standards, at least), the vineyards around Clear Lake have, for years, been a bountiful source of grapes for Beringer, Kendall-Jackson, Fetzer, Mondavi and others.

Surprised? Join the crowd. Historically, Lake County grapes have been quietly blended with their swankier cousins in Napa and Sonoma, getting little label love. But that’s starting to change.

In the last five years, the number of wineries producing Lake County Wines has doubled–from just a handful to nearly 20. In total, approximately 10,000 acres of vineyards are now planted north of Sonoma and Napa counties and newcomers like Six Sigma Ranch, Zoom, Moore Family are names to watch, along with more established wineries Noggle and Brassfield.

One of the coolest places to check out local wines is the recently opened LC Wine Studio in Upper Lake. Featuring a stellar lineup of artisanal producers, the funky, concrete-floored studio (complete with an eager wine pup) caters to the urban-Euro guests of the nearby Tallman Hotel. The lineup includes a mind-boggling 13 wines from Six Sigma Ranch, Spencer-Roloson, Dusniberre Cellars, Noggle and Zoom (new owner and winemaker Matt Hughes helps man the tasting room).

So, is Clear Lake the next Napa? Yes and, uh, definitely no. Jim Fetzer’s Spanish villa/winery/organic gardens/resort community, Ceago, puts pretty much anything on Route 29 to shame. The boutique Tallman Hotel, lovingly resorted by a San Francisco couple, is an off-the-beaten path gem that’s single-handedly reinvigorating the town of Upper Lake. Tasting rooms in Kelseyville have a Calistoga-like vibe and, if you can find it, the Moore Family Winery has unbelievable hillside views.

Conversely, you’ll have a tough time finding top-notch restaurants, cult cabs and shopping that doesn’t include a Wal-Mart greeter.

Call Lake County a promising work-in-progress; a wine region just beginning to discover itself. It’s a place where winemaker-owners like Steve Moore greet you with a glad-to-meetcha handshake at the door. It’s where drinking Steele Winery’s Black Bubbles (think Syrah-flavored soda pop. Brilliant!) by the pool is perfectly okay. It’s a place where you can still get $5 corkage (Blue Wing Saloon & Café), discover a killer syrah (Spencer-Roloson, Moore), get a plate of eggs and hash browns with the locals (Judy’s Junction) and, at the end of the day, dip your toes in the lake. Even if it is a little green.

+++++

Ready to road trip? Upper Lake is about 2 hours from Santa Rosa and about three hours from San Francisco.

WHAT TO DRINK
In this rugged resort country, a longtime haven for boat-hauling families and the casino crowd, it’s somehow fitting that sauvignon blanc–the savage grape–is most identified with the region. But as the region matures, increasingly well-produced zinfandels, syrahs and cabernet sauvignons are taking center stage.

WHERE TO SIP
Lake County Wine Studio: Top-notch artisanal wines at this funky, friendly Upper Lake tasting room. 707.327.6680.

Moore Family Winery: Newly-opened family winery with spectacular views. High-elevation syrah and cabernet sauvignon. Bottle Rock Road, Kelsyville, 707.279.9279.

Steele Winery: Approachable, friendly wines from the man who invented (really) the buttery chardonnay. Former KJ winemaker Jed Steele offers up some tasty drink-em-now wines like the fragrant Steele Viognier and whimsically weird Black Bubbles Syrah. 4350 Thomas Dr. at Hwy 29, Kelseyville.

Ceago: Where else can you pull your jet-ski up to a winery? Jim Fetzer’s Spanish villa is a fantasy spot for sipping under the palm trees. Stroll through the gardens, then head to the tasting room for some biodynamic wines. The winery also has a café and picnic goodies. 5115 East Highway 20, Nice, 707.274.1462.

Wildhurst Vineyards: Downtown Kelseyville tasting room in the former Odd Fellow’s Hall. Don’t miss their sauvignon blanc. 3855 Main Street, Kelseyville, (800) 595-WINE (9463).

Also check out
Brassfield Estate Winery & Vineyards: Top-notch wines from the High Valley appellation. Call ahead, as the winery is sometimes closed. Sauvignon blanc, syrah and zinfandel are best bets. 10915 High Valley Road, Clearlake Oaks, 707.998-1895

Langtry Estate & Vineyards: It’s worth a side trip to the former Guenoc winery, which is part of the Lillie Langtry Estate. Stunning views and leafy arbors await you. Petite sirah and sauvignon blancs are hallmarks. 21000 Butts Canyon Rd, Middletown, 707-987-2385

WHERE TO EAT
Soda Bay*BEST BET* Watercolor Restaurant: It wasn’t until our second trip to Lake County that anyone mentioned this amazing little sleeper. Tucked into a small bayside resort, the spot is quiet and intimate, with just a handful of tables. The decor isn’t much, but the food is top-notch for the region and flavors are well-executed in the hands of the young, eager kitchen. There’s a focus on local, fresh ingredients and the restaurant offers local wines almost exclusively–most in the $25-$35 range. Even better, they’ve got most by the glass, so you can afford to adventurous. The menu changes up frequently, but on a recent visit we were impressed by everything we ordered: ahi tartare, rock shrimp and calamari fritto, St. Louis babyback ribs and a beautiful plate of seared scallops. With four glasses of wine and coffee, the bill was just over $100–high for Lake County, but more than reasonable for the quality of food, service and the romantic bay view. Weekend nights can be crowded, so its recommended that you make reservations. The restaurant also serves a hearty breakfast on weekends. Watercolor Restaurant, Ferdale Resort & Marina, 6190 Soda Bay Road, Soda Bay, 707.279.4866.

Middletown
Boar’s Breath Restaurant & Oven: Only open for dinner, this popular downtown Middletown restaurant has become an institution. And really, who can resist something calls Boar’s Breath onion soup? 21148 Calistoga Street, Middletown, 707-987-9491

Upper Lake
Blue Wing Saloon Café: Attached to the historic Tallman Hotel, this adorable outdoor café and bar has so much potential it hurts. Sit and sip local wines, listen to live music on the patio and stick to the basics–burgers and salads. BiteClub prays for the day some insightful chef decides to put this spot on the map. 9520 Main Street, Upper Lake, 707.275.2233

Judy’s Junction: Don’t miss breakfast at this down home diner. 375 E Highway 20 Spc 5, Upper Lake, 707.275.0905

Clearlake
Main Street Bar and Grill: Though most folks will tell you to steer clear of the down-and-out town of Clearlake, this sprawling grill serves up great burgers, milkshakes and fries with a smile. 14084 Lakeshore Dr., Clearlake, (707) 994-6450

Kelseyville
Saw Shop Gallery Bistro: Sushi meets lamb chops meets spinach ravioli. Wildly eclectic dining at one of the few upscale eateries in Clearlake. 3825 Main Street, Kelseyville, (707) 278.0129

Studebakers Coffee House: A charming sandwich, muffin and coffee spot bustling in the morning. 3990 Main St., Kelseyville, 707-279-8871

Lakeport
Lakeport English Inn: Bed and breakfast serving high tea. 675 N. Main St., Lakeport, 70
7.263.4317

Molly Brennans: Burgers, sandwiches and Irish pub food. Pour me a Guinness and what more could I possibly want? 175 N. Main St., Lakeport, 707.262.1600.

Park Place: Nice salads and sandwiches by the lake. 50 3RD St., Lakeport, (707) 263-0444

STAY
Tallman Hotel: Recently renovated boutique hotel with all the modern amenities. Some rooms have outdoor showers and Japanese soaking tubs; super-comfy beds; charming gardens, pool. Serious country chic. 9550 Main Street, Upper Lake, 707.275.2244

Featherbed Railroad Company: May I show you to your caboose? Movie-themed railroad cars (Casa Blanca, Orient Express, even the Easy Rider) are outfitted with beds, bathtubs and all the modern comforts for your private luxury. No children under 12. 2870 Lakeshore Blvd. Nice, 1-800-966-6322

Let them eat faux gras
When chefs in Chicago were banned from using foie gras in their restaurant, they got creative. Instead of prized duck liver (the animals are force-fed to artificially enlarge the liver), they’re using everything from chicken livers to garbanzo beans to approximate the taste and texture. A recipe for chicken liver faux gras can be found in Michel Richard’s Happy in the Kitchen Cookbook (or here) . So far, Spiaggia’s chef Tony Mantuano hasn’t divulged his secret for vegetarian faux gras, though he says it includes garbanzo beans, vin santo and lots of butter. Listen to his discussion of faux gras on NPR.

Moonshinin’
I have a rule. If I hear about something three times in three days, then it’s probably a trend to pay attention to. Moonshine has popped onto my radar countless times in the last few weeks. Enough times, in fact, that I’m headed to SR’s Beverage People to check out a New Zealand book called The Compleat Distiller. Though running your own still remains illegal in the US (yes, illegal kids-one bad batch and you can go blind), I’m saying here and now that home-brewed spirits are my pick for DIY-trend of the year. Anyone for Meyer Lemon-infused hootch? And hey, if the whole moonshine thing doesn’t work out, you can always use your still to make your own gasoline. Read the distilling FAQ

Cheese so stinky it’s illegal
Epoisse is an artisinal French cheese from Burgundy that’s so incredibly odoriferous that it’s banned on the Paris metro. It also happens to be banned in the US (at least in its original raw-milk form) because, well, a handful of people died from a food-borne illness associated with unpasteurized milk cheeses. Sheesh. More people have died from tainted hamburgers than stinky cheese, folks. I’ve been obsessing about this washed-rind cheese since reading about it in The Devil’s Picnic: Around the World in Pursuit of Forbidden Fruit by Taras Grescoe. Though I hear its not nearly as stinky or delightful (or deadly), you can buy pasteurized Epoisse at Oliver’s for between $6 and $8 per slice. Just don’t try to take it on the Metro.

So sinful it SHOULD be illegal
The final buzz of the week is about Bacon Salt. Despite the fact that some naysayers in New York have declared that the whole artisinal bacon trend has “jumped the shark”, there are those among us that will never, ever, EVER grow tired of the world’s most delightful food. Bacon, that is. And though I’d rather eat glass than put a Baco-Bit in my mouth ever again, the idea of Bacon Salt (basically bacon-flavored, uh, salt) has its appeal. Sprinkle it on your hamburger, your grilled cheese, your ice cream or, well, even your bacon. Because everything really should taste like bacon.

Big changes for the Carneros Inn’s FARM restaurant. Opening chef Kimball Jones, formerly of Campton Place has departed. Jeff Jake, who recently jumped ship after opening Bar Vino in Calistoga (while doing double duty as Brannan’s exec. chef) has been named as executive chef for the Inn (which includes Boon Fly Cafe, FARM and the private dining program). Angele’s Christopher Gerard will serve as FARM’s chef de cuisine.

Everyone loves a comeback story. All the better when it involves Kobe beef.

After years of lurking in the shadows as a solid, but not particularly innovative Sonoma institution, the General’s Daughter has been reinvented as one of the most consistently impressive restaurants in Wine Country. No easy task.

Because the only thing more difficult than opening a restaurant is trying to change the public’s perception of an existing eatery–especially when that perception is one of bridge club luncheons and wedding rehearsal dinners. (I held mine there 10 years ago.)

But with quiet perseverance over the last two years, Chef Preston Dishman has been winning over the hearts, minds and stomachs of locals with his southern take on California classics. Backed by the restaurant’s new owners, Floridians Jim and Bettie Hall, Dishman’s been given free rein over the menu, marrying southern ingredients like andouille sausage with local tomatoes, Dungeness crab cakes with creole mustard butter or goat cheese beignets. He is, after all, a Southern boy.

Dishman stops, however, well short of making the whole thing feel hokey and forced. Calling his food New American with a distinct Southern drawl, Dishman’s obvious mastery of classic French techniques serve as a solid platform for his experimentation in Cal-Ital-Lowcountry cooking.

Bottom line: This ain’t just collard greens and grits. Think foie gras with roasted peaches; heirloom tomatoes with spicy rock shrimp and basil vinaigrette; buttermilk panna cotta with blueberry gelee, brown sugar streusel and blueberry sorbet; venison with harissa spiced carrots. And, okay, West Coast shrimp & grits with andouille and Tabasco butter. (See a sample menu)
It took a plate of Dishman’s slow braised American Kobe short ribs at a recent winemaker dinner, however, to seal the deal. Swoon-inducing, the ribs were melt-in-your-mouth bits of meat and sweet sauce piled on a potato puree (more butter than potatoes, Dishman admits with a smirk) with baby spinach. Professional courtesy was all that kept me from a gushing bear hug of thanks.

Maybe next time. This comeback story still has plenty of chapters waiting to be written.

If you go: Dishman’s menu is arranged by courses, with diners selecting three ($49), four ($61) or five ($73). All menu items are available a la carte should you (and you will) want to share a few extra dishes. “Beginnings” range from salads to oysters; “The Deep Blue” showcase Preston’s skill with seafood (sea scallops with Israeli couscous, Maine lobster with potato gnocchi, tomato and mascarpone cream); “Field and Forest” (lamp chops, beef with polenta, duck breast), a cheese course and dessert (fig tart, buttermilk panna cotta, Meyer lemon crème brulee). The menu change up depending on what’s fresh and seasonal, and Dishman likes to use fresh produce from his chef’s garden at Benziger Winery.

General’s Daughter, 400 West Spain Street, Sonoma, 707.938.4004

The Buzz
Seems Santa Rosa wasn’t quite ready for Nirvana’s high-concept Indian fusion. The restaurant has reportedly closed. Though BiteClub was initially enthusiastic about the food, continued problems with service and consistency–as well some fairly rabid counter-advertising by nearby Sizzling Tandoor–seem to have doomed the restaurant.

The Tightwad
Ferrari tastes on a Volkswagon budget? BiteClub gets it.

Get your bubble on: Domaine Chandon’s usually staid etoile restaurant is attracting some hipsters on a budget during Bubble Hour, featuring half off Chandon wine and $5 sparkling cocktails from 6-7 pm. Thursday nights throughout August, they’ll be offering swing dance lessons for just $10 from 7 to 8pm and a live DJ. One California Drive, Yountville.

All you can eat sushi? Sonoma foodie Kathleen Hill reports in the Sonoma Sun that Shiso Restaurant will offer an all-you-can-eat dinner every Wednesday night from 6pm to 9pm. For $30, you’ve got one hour to cram as much food into your piehole as you’d like (though there is a limited menu). At an upscale sushi house like Ed Metcalfe’s (who plans to open a steakhouse at the SoCo airport this month), that’s quite a deal. 522 Broadway, Sonoma.

Locals night at Dry Creek Kitchen: Charlie Palmer’s Healdsburg outpost offers up a three course tasting menu Monday through Thursday for $30, $45 with wine. 25 Matheson St, Healdsburg.

Applewood Inn, which received a recent Michelin nod, serves up high-end Cal-Ital dishes from Chef Brian Anderson Tuesday through Thursday on their bistro menu. Frequented by romance-seeking tourists on the weekend, the Guerneville spa/hideaway is a nice little getaway for us locals during the busy workweek. Reservations recommended 13555 Highway 116, Guerneville.

The next time Incanto’s Chris Cosentino asks me if I want to watch him break down a whole pig–nose-to-tail–I swear I’m going to take him up on it. One of my biggest foodie regrets, in fact, was passing by the chance to see this offalist at work, elbow-deep in hog.

Because while most of us are a bit squeamish about the seemingly nasty bits of animal left behind after the prime bits of meat have been cut away, this manic organ-ic doesn’t flinch. In fact, the SF chef prizes every usable bit of the animal, sautéing, frying and steaming blood, brains, and, uh, even duck testicles in ways not often seen in the US (at least in the last 75 years or so).

Call it gross. Call it brilliant. Call it a whole new take on sustainability.

And, call it recognized. Cosentino, along with fellow offal-lover Fergus Henderson (sometimes hailed as the father of the organ meats resurgence) of London’s St. John Restaurant were both recently recognized as top Green Chefs by Grist.com.

It’s also a bit of a radical change in thinking. Serious carnivores are rarely hailed by the mostly veggie-centric ecorati. To their defense, animals do take a serious bit of resources to raise, slaughter and process. But when sustainability is part of the total equation–from birth to table–even many hard-core vegetarians are rethinking their stance. In fact, it has recently been reported that flexitarianism “former vegetarians who eat the occasional sausage or hamburger “is a new trend among the formerly meatless. Some credit the influx of more organic, sustainable, humane practices into meat processing for the change.

So, while Alice Waters, Dan Barber and notable French vegetable enthusiast Alain Passard remain usual suspects on “green chef” lists, it’s refreshing to see folks like Cosentino and Henderson’s commitment to waste-less meat eating lauded.

Even if it isn’t your cup of blood pudding.

Check out the other Green Chefs, including Pacific Grove’s Ted Walter and Manresa’s David Kinch, were nominated by Grist.org

In other news: Anthony Bourdain’s No Reservations kicks off its new season tonight (7/30) on the Travel Channel.

After months of anticipation, Railroad
Square’s Toad in the Hole pub will open at the
auspicious hour of 4:20pm Friday, July 27.
If you don’t get the significance, uh, ask your kids. The English style
bar and eatery will offer Bangers & Mash, fish and chips, meat pies and
other tasty Brit fare from former Syrah toque Pam Wilson. And yes, they’ll also
have plenty of foamy pints. No word whether they’ll be passing the hookah.
Which begs the question: Should Anglophiles pass the dutchie to the left hand
side, or the right? Toad in the Hole, 116 Fifth St.,
Santa Rosa, 707.544.8623

Also tonight, Cornerstone Gardens hosts a summer block party from 3:30 to 9pm at it’s Highway 121 location in Sonoma. The fete honors the art and garden center’s re-invention as home to several new lifestyle shops and wine tasting rooms, including a (hopefully) permanent home for the displaced Roshambo Winery. Cornerstone Gardens, 23570 Hwy. 121, Sonoma. Look for the giant blue tree.

Back by popular demand: Fatt Hos at Della Fattoria. Think homemade Ho Hos–those delightful little rolled sponge cakes layered with pastry cream and drenched in chocolate. Della Fattoria, 141 Petaluma Blvd. N. (bet. Washington St. & Western Ave.), Petaluma, 707.763.0161.

Ubuntu almost open: Napa’s new restaurant/yoga studio has attracted top Bay Area toques (most notably Jeremy Fox of Manresa) for its mid-August launch and locals are already buzzing about the vegetable-focused menu. The restaurant will rely heavily on its own biodynamic gardens (stay tuned for more on chef gardens) but promises to satisfy omnivores looking for something a little heartier. Ubuntu, 1140 Main St., Napa.

Details are fuzzy on the possibility of a new restaurant in Sebastopol slated to open this fall; The Sonoma Sun reports that Shiso owner Ed Metcalfe has announced plans to open a new steakhouse in the Sonoma County Airport called SkyLounge (click here to see a menu) and the rumors you’ve heard about the General’s Daughter are all true. Foodies have been abuzz about Chef Preston Dishman’s spicy Southern take on Wine Country classics, but when winemaking kings David Ramey and Mike Benziger are both spotted in the restaurant on the same night there’s clearly something special in the air.

Some buzz about the new barVino in Calistoga. The Left Coast-owned (Brannan’s, Latitude, Checkers) Italian trattoria has been garnering thumbs-up for its small plates and and convivial vibe as meet-up spot in the usually sleepy resort town. Though the restaurant was reportedly opened by Brannan’s executive chef Jeff Jake (doing double duty), we noticed a recent Craigslist ad seeking top chefs for both Brannan’s and barVino. Has Jeff left the building?

Finally, I can’t help but mention the Baconator. Wendy’s recently introduced a double patty, double cheese hamburger with six slices of smoky bacon. Just one of these puppies will set yoiu back about half a day’s worth of calories (830) and 51 grams of fat. So wrong it’s right? Or just wrong?

Watch the ad. It’s so worth it.