BiteClub hears that Petaluma’s Cafe Zazzle will re-open on Friday, January 25 at 11am, according to owners. The restaurant has been closed since late October when a kitchen fire did significant smoke damage to the building. Can they make a comeback?

If the shark has indeed jumped on retro-chic steak joints, nobody told Santa Rosa. Just a week after opening, Mark and Terri Stark’s Railroad Square steakhouse is packed with curious locals willing to pay top dollar for organic, dry aged, corn and grass-fed cuts of beef hand-picked by the city’s favorite chef.

You’ll get the Bogie-and-Bacall vibe right away. Manhattans, aged whiskies and absinthe are served by white-coated bar staff. The seats are leather. Wedge salad and creamed spinach are side staples. A baby grand sits in the corner waiting to tinkle out a tune or two.

Housed in the former Michele’s restaurant, Mark and Terri Stark (who also own the highly-rated Willi’s Wine Bar and Willi’s Seafood in Healdsburg) gutted the historic spot, pretty much starting from scratch.

It’s still a massive space, divided between white-tablecloth restaurant service (reservations recommended) and a come-as-you-are bistro/lounge (first come, first served).

If you’re up for a little wait and a lot of action, vulture for a lounge table on busy weekend nights. Service may get a bit harried when things really start jumping and you may end up with folks standing around your table eyeing your steak hungrily. Down another gin and tonic and soak in the atmosphere.

Not surprisingly, steaks are what you’re here for. Don’t be shy if you don’t know the difference between filet mignon, ribeye, New York Strip, grass-fed or corn-fed. Staff are happy to explain the cuts and preparation. Feel free to guild the lily with a topper of foie gras or ‘popcorn’ sweetbreads along with a side of Béarnaise, Boursin cheese (BiteClub’s personal fave) or truffle aioli. (We won’t tell.) If you’re not a steak and potatoes sort, there are a handful of other choices on the menu, from duck to sole. You just have to ask yourself why you’re eating at a steakhouse, if it ain’t the black and blue you’re after.

Sides are a Stark signature. They’ve trotted out old favorites (mac ‘n cheese among them) along with some killer additions you won’t want to miss: Chicken fried onion rings; yam fries sprinkled with sugar and salt; duck-fat fried frites, and creamed spinach. Indulge your every whim. We insist.

The wine list may have Willi’s devotees scratching their heads, however. Instead of the Stark’s usual heady list of by-the-glass pours, here they’ve focused efforts on half-bottles. It’s a bold move. The in-house sommelier, Paul, says it gives diners the flexibility of trying more than one style of wine (you’ll get about 2.5 glasses or so out of a half bottle) and assures a fresh pour. To that end, Paul’s collected scads of high-end (and more reasonably-priced) petite pours, along with impressive full bottles focused on robust reds. Don’t hesitate to ask for an assist. McNibs and I ended up with a $26 bottle of Mas de Gourgonnier that was just the ticket.

The dessert list is compact, but impressive. Best bet: The crème brulee with sea salt–a sweet, savory end that’s stout enough for sharing.

Drawbacks? Though the restaurant has been touted as a spot for young, urban-minded folks, the $30-plus price tag for most steaks (not including sides, drinks and desserts) may raise the pierced eyebrows of their former-Barcode demographic. You’ll easily drop two Benjamins on dinner and drinks for two. Not outlandish in steakhouse or expense account terms. Not exactly Outback, either.

But what’s it worth to be whisked back to a time when red meat, butter and whiskey were practically health food? A time when bartenders dressed in white coats. And going out for dinner was an event, not an excuse.

Stark’s Steakhouse, 521 Adams St., Santa Rosa, 707.546.5100.
The restaurant will open for weekday lunches Jan. 21, 11:30am to 2:30 pm; dinner Sunday through Thursday from 5pm to 9pm and Friday and Saturday dinners until 10pm.

See a menu | See more photos

Check out the photos of Zazu’s nose to tail feast, held Jan. 20, 2008. Celebrating the Feast of Saint Anthony (the patron saint of butchers), chefs Duskie Estes and John Stewart invited friends and eaters to indulge in an homage to pork. As founder of Black Pig Meat, Stewart is a preserved-meats master and porcine devotee.

On the menu: Housemade salami with pickled grapes; pig head soup, pig heart salad, braised pork shoulder and a little bayleaf gelato for dessert (sadly, no bacon ice cream).

Duskie and John head to New York in coming weeks as part of a state-wide advertising campaign to promote the tastes of California. The two have been chosen, along with Santa Rosa’s Guy Fieri, to serve a luncheon to media as part of the campaign. They’re featuring lamb, along with goat cheese fritters topped with local honey (plus some other stuff I’ve already forgotten). Sante, guys!

I love it when discussions start up spontaneously that get everybody thinking. This week, folks started talking about the area’s best Caesar salad–a thread that spawned from the opening of Stark’s Steakhouse.

And that got me thinking. After a week of shortribs, mashed potatoes and gut-busting stews, where can you get a top-notch salad? Despite the winter chill, raw veggies clearly aren’t just a summer thing with us Northern Californians.

I’ll admit that I rarely order salads when I’m dining out–it seems like a cop-out when I’m jonesing for serious meat-and-potatoe entries. Why fill up on lettuce, when there’s Liberty duck to be had, right? That, and the fact that when I do order them, they always leave me, well, a little cold.

A couple of faves (from my limited experience):

– Spinach, walnut, blue cheese and pear salad at Flavor Bistro, 96 Old Courthouse Square. Santa Rosa, (707) 573-9600.

– Beet and goat cheese salad pretty much anywhere

– Poached egg salad at the Parkside Cafe

– Sauteed mung bean spouts at Chinois

So, the lines are open folks. Where’s the best Caesar (I had no idea Equus did one tableside)? Who’s got a line on the Big Salad? Shout it out.

Oh, and regarding Dempsey’s Caesar: I put in a call to see if Bernadette would part with the recipe, but no luck. She tells me they sell nearly 25,000 of the salads each year and how they make it is a closely guarded secret. She did let a few hints out, however. The use red wine vinegar and the “classic” inclusion of uncooked eggs in the dressing. Hey, we’re willing to play a little food roullette for this salad.

Here are the original posts…
++++++++++++++++++++
Posted By: Loveslifegal (11/01/2008 6:38:53 PM)
Comment: Had dinner at Stark’s last night (the official opening night to the public). Nice atmosphere, beef was fabulous, as were the sides I ordered. The only less than perfect item was the Caesar salad, I would suggest you skip it. If you have ever had a Caesar’s at Dempsey’s you are spoiled for life. I will return to Stark’s very soon!

Posted By: Loveslifegal (14/01/2008 1:47:06 PM)
Comment: To Ms.Steak, the caesar dressing didn’t have any significant amount of lemon, anchovy or garlic flavors. I love a caesar dressing that is big on all of those flavors. The dressing at Stark’s actually tasted like something out of a bottle and there was in fact very little dressing on the salad. If you like caesar salads, treat yourself to the one Dempseys in Petaluma serves. I drive 20 miles just to have it. Wish they would part with the recipe…..

Posted By: garliccrouton (17/01/2008 11:31:47 AM)
Comment: There’s a blog I would love to start…best caesar salad in Sonoma Co. My pick is Cafe Citi, Kenwood.

Posted By: Wojamo (17/01/2008 2:27:17 PM)
Comment: I second the motion for adding a “Best Caesar Salad” post. Not in the running: Union Hotel. It seems to fit “loveslifegal’s” assessment of Stark’s- kind of insipid. Blah.

Posted By: Michelle (17/01/2008 10:09:30 PM)
Comment: The tableside Caesar at Equis is good it’s not the same on the lunch/lounge menu though. When it is done tableside, it tastes better! The caesar salad at Rosso’s is good too. Good blog Garlicrouton!!

Everything but the squeal
Okay, word on the street is that when it comes to food trends, salumi has officially jumped the shark. Along with artisan bacon and, well, anything pig related. I say phooey.
Like the little black dress, Breakfast at Tiffany’s and Chanel No. 5, pork is a timeless classic.

Settling in for the long, porcine haul are the John and Duskie at Zazu. Long committed to the craft of curing, the couple will host a Whole Hog Supper on Sunday, January 20. Featuring just about everything but the squeal, this is serious nose-to-tail eating. The menu goes something like this: Black Pig Salumi with pickled grapes; Hog’s Head Soup with faro and soffritto, Cuoro di Lambrusco (pig heart cooked in red sparkling Lambrusco wine), roasted pork shoulder with mashed potatoes and citrus pound cake with bay leaf gelato. Mmmm.

(Preaching to the choir alert) I’ve become a fan of rustic cuts (admittedly in principle, more than in practice–pork cheeks, ears and skulls are impossible to find retail). If you’re going to eat meat, you darned well better understand that it doesn’t originate in a plastic-wrapped container. Being a carnivore is a brutal business, admittedly. So the least we can do is appreciate as much of the animal–in this case humanely raised, well-tended creatures–as possible. Nose to tail. Call 707.523.4814 to reserve your spot. $70 per person, not including gratuity or tax.

New blood at West County Grill
I’ve heard a lot of grumbling about what was originally touted as the second coming of Alice–or something–over in Sebastopol. My take: The West Country Grill has never quite lived up to the hype. Gossip round the food community is that the souls of the Waters proteges–Jonathan Waxman and Co.–who opened the restaurant seem to be lacking. In any case, a new GM, Louisiana native Terrell Brunet, has taken over head honcho duties. After Katrina, Terrell relocated to SF and has been working in Bay Area bistros. Salvation? We’ll see.

Winey Weekends
Don’t forget about Winter Wineland, this weekend (Jan. 19/20) where Russian River wineries showcase new releases and the famously wild and wacky ZinFest January 23-26 in San Francisco.

Don’t know a Tourtiere from Poulet Basquais? Ever wonder what the heck bouillabaisse actually is? Me too. Over the weekend, I found what’s quite possibly the coolest book ever, 1001 Foods to Die For, a compendium of the most fascinating foods in the world, with entries written by a who’s who of food — from the New York Times’ Mark Bittman to Mario Batali, Donna Hay, Marcella Hazan, Alice Waters and Roadfood’s Jane and Michael Stern with an intro by Atlantic Monthly food writer Corby Kummer.

It’s a big fat read, with tons of lush foodie porn, recipes and straightforward explanations.

So puzzle no longer over okonomiyaki or Welsh Caerphilly gastro-nerds. This Bulgogi’s for you.

1001 Foods to Die For, Andrews McMeel Publishing, $39.95

It’s rare that I’m speechless after a meal. Even rarer when that meal comes out of a take out box. But consider Ms. BiteClub stunned into a reverent silence for the now decimated container of Boeuf Bourguignon from Chloe’s French Cafe. Je suis dans l’amour.

Tipped off by a reader (thank you! thank you!), Chloe’s has been open for just a few weeks in the most unlikely of spots–the Landmark Executive building off Airway Drive in Santa Rosa. Both a sit-down cafe and take-away spot, there’s no exterior signage to tip eaters off to this bonanza of French brasserie-style fare: homemade croissants, brioche, sandwiches (including a hearty Nicoise and zut alor, Croque Monsieur–Béchamel sauce, baked ham and Gruyere on bread) and soups.

But it’s the weekly specials you’re here for, the Bourguignon this week, and at the whim of the chef, things like Coq au Vin and more, usually under $10.

The Bourguignon, which is basically a long-simmered beef and vegetable stew with a heavy dose of red wine, is served on a square of gratin potatoes. I usually really dislike the stuff, because the meat can get tough and gamey and the veggies mushy. With chunks of still-intact mushroom and carrot comingling with beef that literally falls apart in your mouth, BiteClub has is rethinking Bourgogne altogether. The dish should be on the menu through the week and will hopefully reappear throughout the winter.

It should come as little surprise that behind the restaurant are two French brothers, Alain (the pastry chef) and Marc (the sommelier) Pisan whose family have been artisinal bakers for generations. Alain’s wife, Renee (an American) heads up the café and catering kitchen, having immersed herself in the art of French cuisine.

With the remnants of a hazelnut crème puff still on my fingers, BiteClub can confidently report that desserts are Parisian-quality. Alain whips up feather-light éclairs, tarts and cakes each day, most under $3, and some under $2. Raspberry mousse tart? Please.

Marc is putting his wine skills to go use by offering up a happy hour each Friday evening from 4 to 6pm, featuring French and local wines. There are plans for cooking and wine pairing classes in the near future. Sign up for their newsletter at chloesco.com.

So okay, you have your marching orders, eaters. Get steppin’ to Chloe’s. Rapidement! I’ve still got some pastry-eating to do.

If you go: Take the Mendocino exit off 101 and head down Hopper Avenue (look for the Kohl’s Department Store). Make a right on Airway Drive (you think you’re headed for a dead-end) and turn left into the Landmark Executive Center. Go to the far parking lot and enter through the main entrance. Chloe’s is on the left, just use your nose.

Chloe’s French Café, 3883 Airway Dr., Suite 145, Santa Rosa, 707.528.3095. Open 7:30am to 5pm weekdays. Closed on weekends.

Do you have a favorite restuarant you’d like me to know about? Email me at biteclub@pressdemo.com

Chatter over Ubuntu continues. With the Chronicle’s Michael Bauer practically giddy (recently naming it among the Top Openings of 2007) it seemed worth another look. Though I was originally skeptical, Chef Jeremy Fox is converting local carnivores to la vida veggie–at least for a meal or two. Originally written for WineTravel.com, this piece is a different take than my usual first to the table, bite and run stuff. In this case, the reviews were already out, and I wanted to really get under the hood and see what the talk was all about.
All I can say is, Viva Brussels sprouts! Enjoy.

+++++++++++++++

Jeremy Fox spends a lot of time thinking about vegetables.

As chef of Napa’s quirky veg-spot, Ubuntu, he’s a master of meat-free dining. But ask this stoic 31-year-old what he truly craves after a long shift serving cauliflower, arugula and rabe and the answer is surprisingly un-Zen.

“Steak,” says Fox. Spoken like a true carnivore. And somehow reassuring to folks more accustomed to bacon than brewer’s yeast on their plates.

Joining the Napa dining scene in late August, Ubuntu is hard to categorize. Housed in a reclaimed 19th century building, it’s a lofty space that brings together an open-kitchen and bar, communal dining and a yoga studio. Restaurant owner and yoga fanatic Sandy Lawrence’s choice of Fox–a former chef de cuisine of Manresa (a top-ranked Bay Area restaurant)–has kept foodies twittering anxiously since its opening.

But don’t please don’t use the v-word to describe Ubuntu. Both Fox and Lawrence (who admits to being an occasional carnivore) shudder at the restaurant being called “vegetarian,” citing the gourmet ghetto that most tofu and sprout eateries fall into. Leaving lentil salads to others, Lawrence leverages Fox’s classical cooking techniques– like drying potato skins, adding highly flavored broths or hickory smoking Brussels sprouts, to intensify and concentrate flavors.

Winter’s signature dish is a cast-iron pot of roasted, pureed and raw cauliflower bubbling with exotic spices. Also on the menu are fried sunchokes and tomato relish; Brussels sprouts with celery root and cider vinegar gastrique; a gently poached egg atop pureed potatoes or a simple plate of baby radishes with fresh butter and sea salt. Fox’s wife, Deanie (also a Manresa alum), handles the desserts, with best bets being a luxurious layered cheesecake in a jar. Menus change up frequently, as produce comes in from the restaurant’s own organic gardens “so don’t expect today’s sprouts to be available a month from now.

And yes, be assured that Fox doesn’t skimp on the dairy (there’s no shortage of butter, cheese and cream. Though it’s not as prevalent as you might expect from a guy who’s worked with some seriously top toques. There are plenty of purely vegan bites that let the natural garden flavors shine through.

You have to wonder, however, if it isn’t a temptation once in a while to resort to chefs’ usual bag of tricks: Demiglace or, sheesh, even some chicken stock to goose up the flavors. Fox shrugs it off. Not really. The guy’s worked with uber-perfectionist Brit chef Gordon Ramsey, after all. He can handle the challenge.

So, is the food actually edible? Critics recently squelched any lingering snickers, comparing Fox’s dishes to those of the nearby French Laundry and gushing over his “pristine” techniques. The restaurant’s impact has even been compared to the opening of Greens (a Bay Area vegetarian institution) in 1979. High praise for a restaurant devoted to the humble cauliflower and Brussels sprout.

Just don’t call it vegetarian.

Check out a photo gallery featuring more of Fox’s dishes–including the cheesecake–as well the interior of the restaurant. Click here.