There are many things one can reliably consume out of a can. Tuna fish, for one. Soda, certainly. Sardines, black beans, cranberry jelly and other hearty fare, I’ll give you in a pinch. Cheeseburgers…not so much.
Over the last few months, the Internet has been atwitter with gross-out videos of brave folks video-taping themselves eating a horrific German food product — Cheese Burger In A Can. The result is, as you might guess, fairly gag-inducing and makes one thankful, for once, not to have Smell-0-Vision. Continue reading “Cheeseburger in a Can”
I’ve been tracking down former John Ash & Co. chef, Jeffrey Madura for months, after hearing he had a new project in the works. Well, the persistence paid off because Madura is finally talking about his new restaurant — called Jeffrey’s Hillside Cafe”, set to open late summer.
The much-loved chef left his post last July after nearly 20 years, saying that we wanted to spend more time with his family. Seems he couldn’t leave his passion for cooking behind, but he will be saying goodbye to the late nights. Madura’s struck a deal with Bob Coombs of the Hillside Inn to take over the hotel-owners’ Fourth St. restaurant (remember the buckwheat pancakes?), serving only breakfast and lunch.
The menu’s still in development, but Madura says he’s planning to have the usual breakfast items, along with some interesting additions like fromage blanc blintzes with seasonal berries and a tofu scramble with shiitake mushrooms. Lunch is burgers, sandwiches, salads, quiche, pot roast, pasta, chicken piccata, etc. (according to the chef), along with old fashioned milkshakes and smoothies. 2901 4th St, Santa Rosa, (707) 546-9353.
And just a few blocks from Hank’s Creekside…Stay tuned for more details. No worries at Carmen’s Burger Bar
A couple folks were curious what was up at local burgery, Carmen’s when they saw a change of ownership sign. No worries, it’s just some admin stuff, changing from a corporation to a sole proprietorship. Your buns and shakes are safe and sound. 1612 Terrace Way, Santa Rosa, (707) 546-6317.
You know you’re doing something right when folks are lined up, willing to wait 20 minutes for a table on opening day. Not even opening day, according to El Coqui’s Tina Jackson. After months of waiting for the Mendocino Ave. Puerto Rican spot to open, friends and family began spilling into the restaurant last week for a few “preview dinners” — and once passersby saw the lights on, there wasn’t much Tina and her business partner (and cook) Jacqueline Roman, could do.
“We had a line out the door and around the corner. People were drinking beers at Ausiello’s waiting to get in,” says Jackson, buzzing from table to table. She never stops moving — greeting friends, seating eager diners and managing the crush of folks who want to eat. Now.
(If you missed the lead up to the opening, read the post and 60+ comments). Turns out the gals tapped into a local homesickness for Puerto Rican cuisine.
To start, check out the plantain chips with avocado dip (a play on chips and guacamole with a few secret ingredients), or fried green plantains topped with shrimp or beef. Entrees are same at lunch and dinner, but BiteClub was taken with the Palomilla Encebollado: thinly sliced steak covered with sauteed onions — but make sure to get sweet plantains on the side. Very traditional is the Pollo Al Horno, marinated chicken thighs with sweet peppers. We also wolfed down a Sandwich de Bistec — a steak sandwich we ordered with smashed plantains and avocado. Yum.
BITECLUB FAVE: Canoas con Carne Molida, a whole sweet plantain stuffed with ground beef and smothered with cheese. Don’t overlook the bottle of Pique quietly sitting on your table. Here, it’s a mild vinegar sauce studded with garlic, peppers and other tasty herbs.
Desserts rotate, but you’ll want to try the Mantecado de Coco con Guineos Fritos, (coconut ice cream with fried bananas).
The food is flavorful and brightly seasoned without the searing heat of other Latin dishes. Sides include red or black beans and rice, though what I love most about island food are the fried sweet and green plantains — a starchier cousin to the banana.
El Coqui does have a beer and wine license, but for something really exotic, try a Malta (sweet molasses) or Coco Rico (coconut soda). Those raised on the stuff swear by it, but it’s definitely an acquired taste.
The interior has been transformed into a funky, casual dining spot with bright neon beer signs in the window, a tile bar running almost the length of the restaurant and a handful of two and four-top tables. Don’t miss the portrait wall of famous Puerto Ricans as you walk in. As things settle down, expect more native dishes, some live music and (hopefully) a full bar. But until then, be content just to get a table. El Coqui, open for lunch and dinner daily, 400 Mendocino Ave., Santa Rosa, 707.542.8868.
After seeing Food, Inc. on Friday night (and feeling upset and queasy through the whole thing), figured a good way to turn around some of my negative karma points would be to let ya’ll know about this opportunity to help our local markets.
In conjunction with Local Harvest, Care2 is giving away $5000 to a top local food market based on votes. Take a second and vote for Santa Rosa, Sebastopol, Windsor or Healdsburg — whatever your favorite happens to be. (Read my April article on the markets). And feel happy inside.
CLOSED
Lots of buzz about the mega-restaurant that’s been under construction at Stony Point and Todd Roads in Santa Rosa. Now open, the revamped La Strada interior features a large, full-service bar, comfy dining room and private party space, and outdoor patio. The new menu is as sprawling as the space, featuring dozens of seafood specials, daily menudo and birria, taco and enchilada combos and the usual Mex-American burrito/chimichanga fare. Focus, according to the owners, is on seafood (hence the name). First impressions: Great ceviche tostadas, disappointing fish tacos that were neither grilled (as advertised) or edible. 3660 Stony Point Road, Santa Rosa, 541-6140.
If you’re someone who eats food — and I’m guessing you are — it’s worth giving a few minutes of thought to what you’re actually putting in your mouth. Because chances are you have no idea where it came from, let alone what it actually is. At least that’s the premise of the producers of Food, Inc, a new documentary that casts a hard look at commercial food producers who they claim are hiding the truth about what we’re actually eating.
Scary, right?
That’s the idea. Shocking complacent eaters into really taking a harder look at what’s going on our plates — from genetically engineered vegetables to mutant chickens that have been designed to grow breasts so enormous they can barely walk.
Titillating the audience with catch-all soundbites like, “The (food) industry doesn’t want you to know the truth about what you’re eating. Because if you knew, you might not want to eat it,” Food, Inc. has a similar feel to Al Gore’s Inconvient Truth with quick-cut,
“oh my god” urgency, and an all-star lineup (Michael Pollan, Eric Schlosser
et al.). All this earnestness may exhaust some while invigorating others to extreme
action.
Whether you’re a hard-core food purist or merely interested in hearing the other side of gloriously choreographed commercials for cheaper-than-dirt burgers, chips and soda, it’s worth considering the less-glamorous side of the food industry and making up your own mind.
Why you need to go: The film premieres in Santa Rosa at the Rialto Cinemas Lakeside Friday, June 19, 7pm. After that showing, a panel of local food experts including Paula Downing of Santa Rosa Original Farmer’s Market; Marissa Guggiana of Sonoma Direct; Michael Moody of Oliver’s Market and Amy Rice-Jones of Petaluma Bounty will chat with movie-goers about the importance of supporting local foods.
If you miss Friday’s showing, the movie continues throughout the week.
++++++++ Want more to disturbing food theater? End of the Line, a film about over-fishing also opens on June 19, but so far no word if we’ll get it here in Sonoma County. Stay tuned.
For a county that embraces the good life — and all the calories that come with it — Sonoma seems unable to let itself appreciate one of the best things in life: Donuts.
Sure, we have a handful of reasonably okay doughnutteries. But where’s the gusto for greasy goodness wrapped in sugary deliciousness? I mean, as a once-in-a-while kind of treat? Because trust me, you’re not all eating sprouts 24/7. I’ve seen you at Costco, trying on elastic-waisted shorts, darlings.
Other cities embrace their donut-lust with pride. Take Portland’s odd-ball Voodoo Donuts, featuring everything from the Pepto/Nyquil donut (currently on hold) to the Grape Ape (raised doughnut with vanilla frosting and grape powder) or Arnold Palmer (cake doughnut covered with lemon and tea powder), not to mention donuts covered with Cap’n Crunch and even vegan versions of the ‘nut. Or perhaps Seattle’s amazing Top Pot, which truly has the best, most delightful donuts on the planet. Heck, we couldn’t even support a Krispy Kreme. Maybe it has something to do with the coffee culture of the Pacific Northwest.
Fortunately, there are a handful of enterprising local restauranteurs who understand the comfort and joy of a good donut. Call it a bit of nostalgia, throwing a smidgen of caution to the wind, mixed with a smattering of c’est la vie. I applaud you all with a 21-donut hole salute. I’ll worry about my diet tomorrow. Continue reading “Doughnuts. Live a little.”
So I’ve finally gotten the scoop on the shuttered Third St. restaurant directly from Suzan Fleissner, and at this point she’s just not ready to throw in the towel on her dream. Long story short, the location wasn’t working out for her, financial issues arose and ultimately, Fleissner vacated. Currently she’s seeking out a new location to re-open the restaurant, but when and where are still very much up in the air. Here’s the long and short of it from her:
“For a variety of business reasons 3rd St. just wasn’t the fit, as they say location, location, location…so I am on the look out. It’s certainly not easy, but there is some genuine support for this restaurant and people get it. The green light is on sustainability, I tell myself “don’t give up”. When I was reviewed on the 4th day of being open I thought, hmmm, I followed the 3 rules for what make a great restaurant according to that reviewer, simple food done right, a pleasant atmosphere and great service. We did it! And we will again. GG’s is looking for that ideal location.”
UPDATE: I heard from Dino D’Argenzio last Friday evening, whose family trust owns the property. Dino wrote me a long note outlining his thoughts about why the location didn’t work out for Suzan, saying it was more about business practices than the space itself. “There is inaccurate information being thrown around and it is time for a reality check about Susan F, and this property…the location is very good for all kinds of business as is proven by all of the long term established business in that area of downtown.”
At this point in the story it seems like a moot point to continue the debate just for an ongoing “he said, she said.” Suzan feels slighted. Dino feels slighted. There are bad feelings on both sides. You work out the math.
In the end, though, it’s just an all-around shame. Best of luck to both sides. I’ll keep you posted.
adapted from Josh Silvers, Syrah Bistro
Ingredients:
12 oz. Fresh Crab Meat
2 Tablespoons Red Onion (finely diced)
3 Tablespoons Red Bell Pepper (finely diced)
3 Tablespoons Celery (finely diced)
1 Tablespoon Italian Parsley (chopped)
1 Tablespoon Fresh Lemon Juice 1
/2 Cup (approximately) Best Foods Mayonnaise
Salt and Pepper (to taste)
Panko (Japanese style bread crumbs)
Peanut Oil (for sautéing)
Method:
Check crab meat for shells and place in large bowl. Add vegetables, parsley, mayonnaise and lemon juice and mix thoroughly. Then add Panko slowly until the consistency is dry and slightly tacky to the touch. Form cakes and cover with more Panko and set aside.
To Cook:
Heat sauté pan, then add oil and wait until oil is hot. Cook crab cakes until one side is brown and turn over and cook other side until brown. Remove from pan and place on a paper towel. Serve with your favorite condiments.
