Eric Korsh, formerly of Restaurant Eloise in Sebastopol has returned to New York and, according to the New York Times, has been named chef at the fabish Waverly Inn and Garden in Greenwich Village. Perhaps they’ll be more appreciative of his penchant for offal. Also resurfacing is Jeremy Fox, the visionary vegetarian chef of Napa’s Ubuntu. Fox left Napa last winter just as Michelin kudos were being handed out, only to set up camp in LA for several months. He’s returning to the Bay Area, according to published reports, to head up Daniel Patterson’s new Oakland restaurant, Plum.
Rick Bayless Mole Recipe
UPDATE: Kudos for winemaker Reymond Robledo’s invite to the White House State dinner honoring Mexican President Calderon along with a number of local wines with Mexican ties being poured for dignitaries. But as wine blogger, Dr. Vino pointed out in a recent post, uh, couldn’t pretty much every California wine fall into that category? “Raising any glass of California wine then on this august occasion could be accompanied by a mention of their enormous contributions,” said the blog.
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PREVIOUSLY: Joining such bigwigs as Chef Rick Bayless, Beyonce, Whoopi Goldberg, Eva Longoria-Parker, George Lopez, Hilary Clinton and, oh yeah, President Obama and Mexican president Felipe Calderon at a White House State dinner tonight (5/19)… Sonoma County’s own Reynaldo Robledo, founder of the Robledo Family Winery. Reynaldo was asked to be part of the impressive guest list by none other than the Mexican prez himself. No word on whether they’ll be serving his wine at the dinner, but locals know they should be.
Check out the Washington Post site for more details…http://voices.washingtonpost.com/reliable-source/2010/05/the_white_house_mexico_state_d.html
In a related note, Bayless, who’s co-chef in the kitchen for the dinner shares his recipe for a mole sauce being served at the dinner that takes days to make from scratch in includes ingredients from lard and Mexican chocolate to avocado leaves, banana, almonds, tomatillos and stale bread.
RICK BAYLESS’ OAXACAN BLACK MOLE WITH BRAISED CHICKEN
Serves 8 (with about 10 cups of sauce, which will mean
leftovers to make enchiladas or more chicken with)
11 medium (about 5 1/2 ounces) dried mulato chiles
6 medium (about 2 ounces) dried chihualces chiles (see note in Variations and Improvisations below)
6 medium (about 2 ounces) dried pasilla chiles
1 dried chipotle chile (preferably the tan-brown chipotle meco)
1 corn tortilla, torn into small pieces
2 1/4-inch-thick slices of white onion
4 garlic cloves, unpeeled
About 2 cups rich-tasting lard or vegetable oil (for frying the chiles)
1/2 cup sesame seeds, plus a few extra for garnish
1/4 cup pecan halves
1/4 cup unskinned or Spanish peanuts
1/4 cup unskinned almonds
About 10 cups chicken broth (canned or homemade)
1 pound (2 medium-large or 6 to 8 plum) green tomatoes, roughly chopped
4 ounces (2 to 3 medium) tomatillos, husked, rinsed and roughly chopped
2 slices stale bread, toasted until very dark
1/4 teaspoon cloves, preferably freshly ground
1/2 teaspoon black pepper, preferably freshly ground
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon, preferably freshly ground Mexican canela
A scant teaspoon oregano, preferably Mexican
1/2 teaspoon dried thyme
1/2 ripe banana
1/2 cup (about 3 ounces) finely chopped Mexican chocolate
2 or 3 avocado leaves (if you have them)
Salt, about 1 tablespoon depending on the saltiness of the broth
Sugar, about 1/4 cup (or a little more)
2 large (3 1/2- to 4-pound) chickens, cut into quarters
1. Getting started. Pull out the stems (and attached seed pods) from the chiles, tear them open and shake or scrape out the seeds, collecting them as you go.
Now, do something that will seem very odd: scoop the seeds into an ungreased medium-size (8- to 9-inch) skillet along with the torn-up tortilla, set over medium heat, turn on an exhaust fan, open a window and toast your seeds and tortilla, shaking the pan regularly, until thoroughly burned to charcoal black, about 15 minutes. (This is very important to the flavor and color of the mole.) Now, scrape them into a fine-mesh strainer and rinse for 30 seconds or so, then transfer to a blender.
Set an ungreased skillet or griddle over medium heat, lay on a piece of aluminum foil, and lay the onion slices and garlic cloves on that. Roast until soft and very dark (about 5 minutes on each side of the onion slices; peel it off the foil to turn it; about 15 minutes for the garlic ; turn it frequently as it roasts). Cool the garlic a bit, peel it and combine with the onion in a large bowl.
While the onion and garlic are roasting, turn on the oven to 350 degrees (for toasting nuts), return the skillet to medium heat, measure in a scant 2 cups of the lard or oil (you’ll need about 1/2-inch depth), and, when hot, begin frying the chiles a couple at a time: They’ll unfurl quickly, then release their aroma and piquancy (keep that exhaust on and window open) and, after about 30 seconds, have lightened in color and be well toasted (they shouldbe crisp when cool, but not burnt smelling). Drain them
well, gather them into a large bowl, cover with hot tap water, and let rehydrate for 30 minutes, stirring regularly to ensure even soaking. Drain, reserving the soaking liquid.
While the chiles are soaking, toast the seeds and nuts. Spread the sesame seeds onto a baking sheet or ovenproof skillet, spread the pecans, peanuts and almonds onto another baking sheet or skillet, then set both into the oven. In about 12 minutes the sesame seeds will have toasted to a dark brown; the nuts will take slightly longer. Add all of them to the blender (reserving a few sesame seeds for garnish), along with 1 1/2 cups of the
chicken broth and blend to as smooth a puree as you can. Transfer to a small bowl.
Without rinsing the blender, combine the green tomatoes and tomatillos with another 1/2 cup of the broth and puree. Pour into another bowl. Again, without rinsing the blender, combine the roasted onion and garlic with the toasted bread, cloves, black pepper, cinnamon, oregano, thyme, banana and 3/4 cup broth. Blend to a smooth puree and pour into a small bowl.
Finally, without rinsing the blender, scoop in half of the chiles, measure in 1/2 cup of the soaking liquid, blend to a smooth puree, then pour into another bowl. Repeat with the remaining chiles and another 1/2 cup of the soaking liquid.
2. From four purees to mole. In a very large (8- to 9-quart) pot (preferably a Dutch oven or Mexican cazuela), heat 3 tablespoons of the lard or oil (some of what you used for the chiles is fine) and set over medium-high heat. When very hot, add the tomato puree and stir and scrape (a flat-sided wooden spatula works well here) for 15 to 20 minutes until reduced, thick as tomato paste, and very dark (it’ll be the color of cinnamon stick and may be sticking to the pot in places). Add the nut puree and continue the stirring and scraping until reduced, thick and dark again (this time it’ll be the color of black olive paste), about 8 minutes. Then, as you guessed it, add the banana-spice puree and stir and scrape for another 7 or 8 minutes as the whole thing simmers back down to a thick mass about the same color it was before you added this one.
Add the chile puree, stir well and let reduce over medium-low heat until very thick and almost black, about 30 minutes, stirring regularly (but, thankfully, not constantly). Stir in the remaining
7 cups of broth, the chocolate and avocado leaves (if you have them), partially cover and simmer gently for about an hour, for all the flavors to come together. Season with salt and sugar (remembering that this is quite a sweet mole and that sugar helps balance the dark, toasty flavors). Remove the avocado leaves.
In batches in a loosely covered blender, puree the sauce until as smooth as possible, then pass through a medium-mesh strainer into a large bowl.
3. Finishing the dish. Return the mole to the same pot and heat it to a simmer. Nestle the leg-and-thigh quarters of the chicken into the bubbling black liquid, partially cover and time 15 minutes, then nestle in the breast quarters, partially cover and simmer for 20 to 25 minutes, until all the chicken is done.
With a slotted spoon, fish out the chicken pieces and transfer them to a large warm platter. Spoon a generous amount of the mole over and around them, sprinkle with the reserved sesame seeds and set triumphantly before your lucky guests.
Advance Preparation: The mole can be completed through Step 2 several days ahead (it gets better, in fact); cover and refrigerate. Completele Step 3 shortly before serving.
VARIATIONS AND IMPROVISATIONS: Chilhuacle chiles are very difficult to find unless you’re in Oaxaca (even then they’re sometimes hard to obtain). Without them you can make a very respectable black mole with 6 ounces (12 total) dried mulato chiles, 2 1/2 ounces (8 total) dried pasilla chiles and 1 ounce (4 total) dried guajillo chiles.
Sonoma’s Lunch Aquatic: Pool, river & waterside dining
There are few better dining companions than water — running, tinkling, crashing or merely reflecting brilliantly — it’s a built in backdrop and entertainment that turns even every day food into an event.
With the big, golden orb suddenly reappearing in the sky (after how many months of rain?) it suddenly seems like a good time to head outside again and enjoy some poolside, oceanside or riverside dining.
Here are some top spots for dipping your toes in while nibbling away the day…
Snuggle up to a serious burger and local brew at Petaluma’s riverside favorite: Dempsey’s. The outdoor patio is has a tableside view to the local river, which babbles and laps along quietly as you eat. 50 East Washington Street, Petaluma, 765-9694.
Across the river, Water Street Bistro continues to be a favorite breakfast and
lunch spot for locals, with Parisians bistro-inspired daily specials, solid soups, fresh bread, and a homemade touch to everything. The cozy outdoor patio overlooks the water, but bring a jacket because it can sometimes get chilly! 100 Petaluma Blvd North, Petaluma, 763-9563.
A bit more upscale is Calistoga’s Sol Bar, the in-house restaurant for the Solage Spa. But don’t expect just iced tea and lettuce here, Gary Danko-alum Brandon Sharp oversees a ying-yang menu that respects the health-consciousnesss of the spa-set (beet and orange salad, tuna carpaccio, grilled salmon) while also offering heartier fare after a long day of poolside lounging (confit of foie gras, pork belly, shortribs). The zen-like surroundings will put you at peace while the kitchen feeds your soul. 755 Silverado Trail, Calistoga, 226-0850.
Located in Sonoma’s the swank El Dorado Hotel, El Dorado Kitchen is tops for cocktail hour nibbles and drinks. Head out to the garden courtyard for a poolside retreat with seasonal juice martinis (berry cosmo, peach jalapeno) and tasty bar bites. 405 First Street West, Sonoma, 996-3030.
Under the radar is the Water Tower Restaurant at the ultra-luxe Fairmont Sonoma Misison Inn. Whether you’re post-peel or just relaxing by the pool (you can buy a day pass to use the facilities if you’re not a guest), there’s plenty to love about the fresh salads, wraps, burgers bbq pork and frothy cocktails. 100 Boyes Blvd. (Greger St.), Sonoma, 938-9000.
Don’t let it’s shabby looks deceive you. Inside the Marshall Store oyster shack are some of the best oysters to be found in the area. Barbequed, Rockefellered or raw (or all three), they’re prepared while you wait and served up with hearty local bread for dipping all that juice. And the best part? The view is free. Located on Highway 1 in Marshall, Open seven days a week, 10am to 6pm.
Nearby, if you’re feeling adventurous (and have made a reservation well in advance) Hog Island Oysters sells fresh-from-the-bay oysters onsite and has a popular picnic spot right on the bay for grilling them up yourself. Not lucky enough to get a picnic spot, it’s worth crunching over the oyster shells in the parking lot and stopping in just to see the “Farm” where the oysters spend their last 24 hours in huge tanks getting cleaned. Note: You can’t buy prepared oysters here (aw shucks!)
The Farm: Open Tuesday through Sunday from 9am to 5pm; located on Highway 1 in Marshall, about 15 minutes north of Point Reyes Station and
45 minutes south of Bodega Bay. (415) 663-9218.
Sea Ranch: There’s no quick way to get to this remote ocean-side resort, so chances are you’ll be starving by the time you arrive. About thirty miles north of Jenner, along scenic Highway 1, Sea Ranch Lodge hugs the rugged northern California coastline, offering panoramic views from the restaurant and more casual solarium. If you’re just stopping by, grab an exceptional burger from the tavern menu and warm up in the bar. Overnight guests and residents of the seaside community can linger at the white-linen restaurant for grilled pork chops, rib eye and local seafood. Highway 1, Sea Ranch, 785-2371.
Cafe les Jumelles, recently relocated to the charmingly ramshackle riverside restaurant formerly known as Nit’s Thai, is a morning beacon for locals and weekenders looking to recharge. Huevos rancheros and omelets are top vote-getters, along with the banana split. Don’t expect to eat and run, however. Here things go at their own pace and everyone knows that you’ll get your breakfast when you get it. Consider the wait part of the charm. 15025 River Road, Guerneville, 869-9511.
Wine Country Farmers Markets Guide

(Year-Round) Santa Rosa Farmers Market – Veteran’s Building: One of the county’s biggest and best markets. Year round, Saturday mornings from 8am to noon.
(Seasonal) Santa Rosa Wednesday Night Farmers Market, late May through September, Wednesday nights from 5 to 8:30pm.
(Seasonal) Sebastopol Farmers Market: Town Square, April through November, Sunday from 10am to 1pm.
(Seasonal) Healdsburg Certified Farmers Market: Vine & North St., May through November, Sat., 9am to noon; Tuesdays in the Plaza from 4-6:30pm, June through October.
(Year-Round) Sonoma Farmers Market: Year round, Friday, 9am to noon in Depot Park
(Seasonal) Windsor Farmers market: May through December, 10am to 1pm, May through Nov.; Thursday nights 5-8pm on the Town Green, June through September.
(Seasonal) Petaluma Farmers Market: May through October, Saturdays, 2-5pm, Walnut Park.
(Seasonal) Rohnert Park Farmers Market: New for 2010! Friday nights from 5 to 8pm, June 4 through late September. Parking lot adjoining the library and City Center Plaza.
(Seasonal) Occidental Farmers Market: Downtown Occidental, Fridays from June through October, 4pm to dusk.
(Seasonal) Cotati Farmers Market: La Plaza Park, Thursday nights from June thoruigh October from 4:30pm to Dusk.
(Year Round) Marin Farmers Markets: Marin Civic Center (the largest farmer’s market in the North Bay), 8am to 1pm Sunday through Thursday, year-round; Novato Tuesday May through September from 4-8pm.
(Seasonal) Occidental Bohemian Farmers Market: Downtown Occidental, Fridays from June-October 4pm to dusk.
Secret Yucatan Supper Club: Tendejon de la Calle
Chef Mateo Granados is behind the range of the next big thing in Wine Country: A pop-up eatery devoted to modern Yucatan cuisine. In a barn. In a vineyard.
And that’s all I can tell you.
Because I definitely don’t want anyone to know the Dry Creek supper club location is actually an unused wine warehouse where Mateo and his crew load in an entire kitchen (range, prep tables and food) twice a week in preparation for feeding 40+ diners.
With no markings or signs to the spot, the hand-written menu board inside the barn becomes a natural gathering spot, with folks conspiratorially congratulating themselves for being in on the secret with sniffing the meaty smells from the kitchen.
Once you’ve gotten your bearings, there’s plenty of assistance available to decipher exotic cooking terms and ingredients sourced almost
entirely from small-scale local farmers. The menu changes up as frequently as the guest list, but the concept remains the same: Mateo’s
tried-and-true family recipes given a Wine Country facelift. Hailing from the Yucatan peninsula, his dishes combine influences from Spain and
the ancient Mayans to compliment the produce and meats of Sonoma County.
Chew on this recent offering: Oaxacan green corn savory atole (a sort of corn porridge) with Spring ranch eggs, and roasted asparagus; spring
garlic soup with ancho chili and house-cured pork belly; grilled fava bean salad with Full Circle ciabatta, Bohemian Creamy Romero cheese and
balsamic vinegar; Salmon Creek Ranch duck chiccaron with strawberry rhubarb salsa fresca and Mayan tortilla; Bolinas halibut with El Yuca
aoili; and local rabbit and quail with favas.
The deets: Meals are served restaurant-style (meaning waitstaff take your order and bring your plates to you). Guest chefs sometimes show up
to help in the kitchen, but you’re just as likely to find local chefs and cooks of all stripes sitting across from you at the table (they’re
especially keen on sharing tastes). Drinks are strictly BYOB, along with glassware), so bring a bottle to share, and don’t skimp because you’ll also likely be sitting next to a few winemakers cracking out their wares. Expect to get to know your table-mates. Chances are they’re as giddy to be here are you are. Kids are welcome to join in.
At the end of the night, everything’s packed up and carted away, leaving behind nothing but the million-dollar vineyard views.
But I’ve said too much. The rest is up to you to figure out.
Tendejon de la Calle, weekly on Wednesday and Thursday evenings from 5pm
until dusk. Invites available only by email list or by calling
623.5474. Entrees $16-$19 each, appetizers $8-$12. Cash and local checks
only. BYOB and glasses
Sonoma County’s Fermentable Feast: Not Rotten, Just Robust

Don’t miss the third annual Freestone Fermentation Festival in Freestone on Saturday, May 21, 2011. The event brings together fermenters of all stripes with demos, sampling and live entertainment.
Fermentation celebs Sandor Katz and brewmaster Dr. Charles Bamforth and Osmosis’ Michael Stusser will participate in a Symposium and Fermentation Feast hosted by Chef John Ash on Friday.
More details, ticket info and directions online.
Balancing the razor thin line between delicious and rotten are a whole category of foods that fizz, stink and ooze their way to ripe and robust splendor.
Defined politely as “fermented”, this process of controlled spoilage isn’t necessarily pretty, but can result in complex, rich complicated flavors (think ripe Camembert or fiery kimchi) and some pretty heady health claims. Not to mention the current darlings of nouveau homesteaders and retro-granny hipsters who are canning and pickling anything not tied down.
What’s all the hoopla? Touted by some as the next superfood, health promises of fermented food range from better digestion to improved metabolism and cancer-fighting properties.
Staples of our ancestral pantries, this funky process was one of the only pre-refrigeration ways to preserve food, resulting in cheese, sour cream, cured meats, beer, wine, bread, vinegar, fish sauce, pickled foods, miso, kimbucha and soy sauce among others.
Serious props to Korean guy nominated to take the first bite of the cabbage someone had buried underground and let ripen for a few months.
“It can be a little scary to people,” says Santa Rosa registered dietician and teacher Jill Nussinow (aka The Veggie Queen). Many of our natural defenses tell us to steer clear of foods that look, taste and smell, well, putrid. For good reason — they make us sick.
But properly done, fermentation slows or halts food from rotting, holding it at a place where good bacteria overcome the bad stuff and make for healthy fare.
Nutritionists say raw fermented foods have the most beneficial health qualties, but a variety of foods (even some you might not suspect) are actually fermented at some point. Milk products in the US are pasteurized before the live cultures are added.
Live Fermented Foods
- Kefir
- Kimchi
- Kombucha
- Sauerkraut
- Pickles
- Tempeh
- Sour cream, yogurt, buttermilk
- Unpasteurized aged Cheese
- Unpasteurized beer
Other foods that ferment with the help of bacteria
- Charcuterie
- Wine
- Beer
- Vanilla
- Ginger Beer
- Fish Sauce
- Soy Sauce
- Vinegar
- Bread
- Chocolate
- Tea
- Coffee
- Miso
“Here’s why fermented foods are important right now: A lot of people take antibiotics…they’re even in our food and water supply, and that kills the good flora in our guts. Along with all the processed white foods we eat, we just don’t get a lot of good bacterial growth in our bodies,” Nussinow said.
Why do you want that? Fermented foods are natural probiotics, meaning they help grow that natural bacteria inside us. The human body works better when certain types of “friendly” bacteria flourish in our digestive system, helping to break down foods and flush out the system. In others words, it’s what helps move you.
And when it comes to health benefits (and note, not everyone is on the fermented bandwagon…some folks think rotten is just plain rotten) the raw stuff packs the biggest probiotic body punch. Cooking, heating and pasteurization can kill the good bacteria that nutritionists are so fond of.
Wanna take the plunge? Go local and dive into Sonoma County’s own fermentable feast.
Kombucha: A fermented tea long-revered for its healing properties in Asia and Russia, Kombucha is the it-drink of 2010. Lightly carbonated, it has a tart, slightly yeasty flavor that takes a little getting used to, along with the “floaties” of culture that need to be shaken up before drinking. The caffeine and corn syrup-free body buzz they live you with makes any trepidation short-lived.
– Vibranz Kombucha: Juice know-how from the former Sonoma Sparkler crew makes these fizzy drinks an easy-approach for newcomers. Made in Healdsburg with organic flavors like raspberry, ginger-lemon and mango. Vibranzbev.com, available at Whole Foods, Pacific Market, Molsberry’s.
– Lonjevitea: A double punch of yerba-mate tea and kombucha is the formula for 20-somethings Mollie Sitkin and Michaela Biaggi’s Petaluma-based probiotic tea business. Local juices flavor their Gravenstein apple, chamomile and ginger kombucha. Available at Whole Foods. lonjeviteakombucha.com.
Kimchi: Raging through food circles as the condiment of the moment, this Korean national food is usually a combination of cabbage, chilies, sugar, vinegar, garlic and radishes fermented for days or weeks. Or more. Good for newbies is Wild Rose Ranch’s mild and tangy version. ($7 at the Santa Rosa Saturday farmer’s market)
Homemade Sauerkraut & Pickles: Dave Ehreth is the pickle king of Sonoma County, creating converts daily with addictively delish Alexander Valley Gourmet pickles and sauerkraut. The unpasteurized Manhattan-style pickles have a blend of nine spices, fresh garlic and sea salt. And hot dogs scream for his tart raw sauerkraut. Available at Oliver’s, Whole Foods markets, Jimtown Store.
Winning top honors at the 2011 Good Food Awards was Sebastopol’s Ceres Community Project’s Arame & Ginger Sauerkraut Salad. More than just a tasty side dish, fermented cabbage is said to have restorative and health benefits for the digestive system — something especially important for Ceres’ clientele. Using ingredients from organic local producers like Tierra Vegetables and First Light Farms, Ceres brings together teen cooks and local volunteers to prepare healthy, organic meals for individuals and families struggling with cancer.
Natto: This traditional Japanese health food is for the adventurous eater. These fermented soybeans have a stringiness that pulls melted taffy and piping hot mozzarella to shame, leaving little cobwebs trailing from every bite. And the ripe smell is well, unforgettable (even more so if you get the stuff on your hands). But the health-qualities of this raw fermented food include antioxidants, protein, amino acids and is said to help alleviate hot flashes during menopause. Magumi Natto, made in Sebastopol, has a milder flavor than frozen, imported versions. Available at the Santa Rosa Community Market, Andy’s Produce.
Kefir: A cousin to yogurt, kefir has additional strains of good bacteria that really go to work on the old digestive tract. With smaller (easier to eat) curds than regular yogurt, this tart, smoothie-like drink comes in both goat and cow-style, here in Sonoma County. Redwood Hill Farm’s goat milk kefir comes in mango orange pinapple, plain and blueberry pomagranate. Available at most local grocers. Clover Organic Farms is also in on the kefir action with pomagrante strawberry acai, plain, mango orange pineapple and blueberry. Available at G&G Market.
Goji Kitchen | Santa Rosa
For more than a decade, Goji Kitchen, has ranked among the best Asian kitchens in Sonoma County. It’s one of my favorites too, especially for walnut prawns.
The Santa Rosa JC-neighborhood restaurant serves a mix of Chinese, Thai and Vietnamese dishes, featuring bbq short ribs, clay pot rice, orange peel sesame chicken, spring rolls, pho and more than 40 others, including Wor Wonton soup. Ingredients are high-quality and include plenty of vegetarian options.
Locals tend to order takeout here, though the dining room is a comfortable modern and minimal, space with the tinkling fountain keeping the whole experience very zen-like.
Goji Kitchen, 1965 Mendocino Ave, Santa Rosa, gojikitchen.com/dinner-menu
Pupusas: El Malecon, Pupuseria Salvadorena in Santa Rosa
The quick thwap, thwap, thwap of women’s hands tossing thick corn tortillas from palm to palm is the sound of Salvadoran soul food.
No state-of-the-art kitchen gadgets, recipes or plastic gloves required. Just the flutter of hands stretching dough, warming the masa, and gently pulling and patting pupusas into imperfect circles. Pan-fried to deliciousness.
These chubby cousins to the tortilla are the original to-go food: Convenient pockets of cheese, meat, veggies, beans sealed inside corn flat bread. On the side: Curtido (a fermented cabbage that’s El Salvador’s version of kimchi) and salsa.
Cooler than a quesadilla. More able to conquer lunchtime hunger than a mere taquito. And handmade just for you.
El Malecon: Salvadoran natives, Sonoma State students and in-the-know chow hounds rub elbows at this mom-and-pop eatery tucked well off the beaten path. The owners make everything by hand, including the best pupusas in Sonoma County. Fresh horchata, banana leaf-wrapped tamales and hearty platos of ham, eggs, rice, beans and queso fresco round out the menu. 217 Southwest Blvd., Rohnert Park, (707) 794-9047
Pupuseria Salvadorena: One of the first pupuserias to hit the radar of local foodies, this humble little eatery is all about fresh pupusas and authentic El Salvadoran comfort food. Try their pupusas de chicarron, queso y frijoles (pork, cheese and beans), pupusa de queso, calabaza y Espinaca (cheese, squash and spinach) or the pupusa y loroco (a pupusa with loroco flower, an edible flower that grows in Central and South America). And at $2 each, they’re a steal. 1403 Maple Ave., Santa Rosa, 707.544.3141
Wild Goat Bistro, Petaluma
With river-adjacent seating, charming exposed-brick walls, and sunny windows, Wild Goat Bistro is real-estate gold for lunchtime and post-theater dining. Espousing a commitment to locally-sourced ingredients and approachable Mediterranean-influenced dishes (pizza, burgers, salads and heartier evening entrees) its got broad potential.
The kitchen, however, still needs some gentle herding.
Housed in the former Sooze Wine Bar location there are some solid menu picks at Wild Goat, especially at lunch. Thin and crispy pizzas lead the charge: “In Season” ($11.75) is an oft-changing featured pizza we had with pear, gorgonzola and arugula. Served on wooden boards, it’s picture perfect. A steak-and-potato topped pizza (The Rancher, $12.50) missed the mark not with flavor, but presentation: Biting into a slice with long vertical strips of steak can make for embarrassing (and messy) cheese-meets-steak-meets-chin slapping.
Salads are also tasty: The springy Cobb ($12.50, also available in half-orders) hits all the right notes with its lighter take on the classic and is enough for two to share easily. The restaurant serves up a few heartier entrees in the evenings, along with many of the lunchtime fare, including seasonal fish, The Petaluma Burger (grass-fed Niman ranch beef) and pasta. Cakes are sweet and rustic, housed on covered cake plates along the counter. Charm-points.
But the devil’s in the details. Mismatched thrift-store-esque dishes are only quaint when they’re ironic or in a dorm room. Neither of which they are here. Fancy plating techniques can become classic fails in over-ambitious hands: Water crackers stuck into a hunk of chevre is giggle-worthy (though the toasted slice of baguette in a wire basket impressed). Potato wedges are best left on the plate rather than teetering over my burger. Flavor pile-ups (tomatoes, balsamic vinegar, olive tapenade and goat cheese) distract. Both of my dining partners looked on horrified when a plastic Heinz squeeze bottle of ketchup was thunked on the table. Fine at a diner. Not when we’re the bill is going to be over $60.
Overall, minor faux pas…but restaurants are in the business of appealing to all the senses and mangled details detract from the otherwise well-crafted experience.
Just out of the gate, Wild Goat has good intent, but like any gal trying to impress, sometimes needs a quick look in the mirror. Remove a few overly ambitious-accessories and invest in some foundation pieces. Because simple, confident and classic is often the best way to go.
+++
Wild Goat Bistro, 6 Petaluma Blvd N, Ste A5 (in the Great Petaluma Mill), Petaluma, (707) 658-1156. Lunch from 11:45am to 3pm daily, Dinner from 5 to 9pm Sun-Thursds; 5 to 10pm Fri, Sat. Live music Friday and Saturday from 7 to 9:30pm.
Franco’s Ristorante: Santa Rosa
CLOSED
If wood-fired pizzas haven’t been named the signature food of Sonoma County, consider this the official nomination. I’m hard-pressed to think of a recent restaurant that’s opened in the last year that didn’t have gourmet ‘zas in the lineup.
And while I’ve certainly gotten better acquainted with a little char on my pie lately, this isn’t necessarily bad news. As Americans we average about 23 pounds of pie per person annually, stuffing in an close to 350 slices per second as a nation. Hold the anchovies!
Franco’s, housed in the former 505/Acapulco space along with the new Chrome Lotus nightclub is a recent entrant into the pie game. At the helm: Franco Fabiani, the former owner of Fabiani’s.
You’ll immediately get his faux-villa vibe, with plenty of earth-toned
stucco, tile floors, mini frescos and a wine grotto by the door. It’s a
charming transformation of what was once a miserable cave into something
light and airy — with a back room fireplace and enclosed outdoor
patio. Franco (at least when we visited) mans the door, welcoming
guests. Adding credibility is an open kitchen where diners can watch
their meals prepared, rather than wondering what’s happening behind
closed doors. And trust me, BiteClub shimmied out during a previous
version of the restaurant after 45 minutes of waiting and wondering.
Solid Start: Franco’s menu is simple, with a handful of antipasti
($8-$14), four wood-fired pizzas ($10-$12) and eight pasta and meat
entrees ranging from $16 to $28. Prices seem spendy for the lunch
crowd, but servings are generous and sharable. To attract the lunch-bunch, however, some lower priced pizzas might be a solid idea.
Best bets: Breads and pizzas really shine here, with a solid homemade
touch. Warm, herbed foccaccia is a great amuse, brought quickly out to
the table. The grilled Italian bread from Bruschetta di Mare ($14) also
shines, even though the overly tart, rubbery mare doesn’t. The Dominique
is a belly-pleaser, big enough for two, with smoked mozzarella,
romano, prosciutto, argula, garlic and olive oil ($12). Pair with
Insalata Mingo, a light Caesar-esque salad with whole leaves of Romaine,
bread crumbs and lemon-garlic dressing.
We hear that Franco’s Italian sister has been working the kitchen during
the opening days, getting things just so, and hopes are high that her
touch will continue to influence the menu it settles into being another
solid downtown addition.
Note: It’s important to note that Franco’s and Chrome Lotus do not share
a common entrance, nor is there inside access between the two —
something that proved to be a weird issue with 505. The two spaces,
though they are housed in the same building, strive to maintain a unique
personality. How well the dinner and bar crowd will jive (because they
are in close quarters) remains to be seen.
Franco’s: 505 Mendocino Ave, Santa Rosa 707-523-4800. Open from 11:30am
to 9:30pm(ish) daily. Beer and wine only.
Check out BiteClubber Gregory’s awesome pictures: http://www.essenceofimagery.com/Francos/
