Heirloom Beans & Ancient Grains

Green lentils, black turtle beans and millet

 

Green lentils, black turtle beans and millet

As bacon gives over its 15 minutes of fame to the Next Big Thing in Food, waiting in the wings are heirloom beans and ancient grains  the humblest of peasant foods  ready for their moment in the spotlight.

Its really an everything old is new again story, because grains and beans, which together make up the basis for a civilization-sustaining diet, have been feeding us for tens of thousands of years. From Asia to the Americas, nearly every culture has combined the two: soybeans and rice in Asia, millet and lentils in the Africas; quinoa, amaranth, rice and a rainbow of beans in the Americas.

Life-sustaining and healthy, these staple foods are high in fiber and protein, often containing minerals and vitamins lacking in a processed food diet. With increasing numbers of Americans looking at flexitarian or part-time vegetarian diets to lose weight and boost longevity, these long-forgotten flavors are making their way back into our diets.

With many local advocates from the Slow Food movement, as well as heirloom seed savers, forward-thinking farmers and local importers, a variety of beans and grains have deep roots in Sonoma and Napa.

Two recent cookbooks, San Franciscan Heidi Swanson’s Super Natural Every Day: Well-loved Recipes from My Natural Foods KitchenAncient flavors make their way back into modern kitchens and Maria Speck’s Ancient Grains for Modern MealsAncient flavors make their way back into modern kitchens along with Steve Sandos 2009 Heirloom BeansAncient flavors make their way back into modern kitchens bring the ancient foods trend to modern kitchens with dishes like millet muffins or lentil soup with brown butter and coconut milk.

Here’s how to get started…

Heirloom beans: With creative and curious names like Tigers Eye, Good Mother, Jacobs Cattle and Black Turtle, these arent your average supermarket pintos. Local farmers like Tierra Vegetables and Bernier Farms are offering up dried beans at farm markets. Tierra, in fact, offers more than 20 at their Windsor farm stand. Another incredible regional resource is Rancho Gordo in Napa. Steve Sando has almost single-handedly revived interest in small-batch native beans from Mexico. Working with indigenous farmers, he imports truckloads of exotic beans to high-end groceries, selling locally at Jimtown Store (6706 California 128, Healdsburg, 433-1212), Epicurean Connection (18816 Sonoma Hwy, Ste C, Sonoma, 935-7960) and from his storefront in Napa (1924 Yajome St., Napa, 259-1935).


Resources

Rancho Gordo: 1924 Yajome St, Napa, 259-1935
Tierra Vegetables: 651 Airport Boulevard, Santa Rosa, 837-8366
Bernier Farms: 1720 Canyon Road, Geyserville, 849.7592

Beans to check out
Petaluma Gold Rush: For more than 150 years, the Azevedo family has been growing this Peruvian native in Petaluma. According to Tierra Vegetables, this bean was initially grown and marketed in San Francisco during the 1840 when Azevedo jumped ship from a whaler to start his own ranch. With a meaty, creamy texture and pronounced flavor, these are great meat alternatives.

Flageolet: A favorite of French chef Escoffier, these meaty beans are often used in French country cuisine, most notably cassoulets.

Black Turtle: Native to the Americas, these shiny black beans have an earthy quality and are often found in Mexican or Cajun cooking.

Yellow Eye: Dense and creamy, these beans are a top Rancho Gordo seller, with their butterscotch-colored spots.

Lentils: Available in a variety of colors these small beans are high in amino acids and cook more quickly than larger beans. Well known in Biblical times, these Middle Eastern natives are often used for soups, stews and porridges, but are equally delicious in cold salads.

Fagioli Badda: A traditional Italian bean used for pasta e fagioli sold by Bernier Farms.

Sweet, lemony millet muffins from Super Natural Every Day

Ancient Grains: Before white bread and rice, there were the rich, earthy, nutty and fibrous grains of our ancestors. Many are being re-introduced, especially with the rise of gluten-free diets, as alternatives to wheat. Although some are not actual grains (like quinoa, which is part of the goosefoot family) they are treated as such. Many of these grains can be found in bulk at high-end grocers or from producers like Anson Mills or Bobs Redmill.

Millet: Best known in the US as bird feed, millet is one of the most ancient grains known to man, cultivated and eaten for the last 10,000 years. In China, archeologists have found 4,000 year old noodles made with millet flour. Until the introduction of potatoes, it was very popular in European cooking as well. Gluten-free.

Quinoa: Native to the Americas, was revered by the Incas who called it the mother of all grains, according to Maria Speck in Ancient Grains for Modern Meals. Despite being more closely related to beets than wheat, quinoa has a fluffy, nutty texture and a slightly grassy taste. Gluten-free

Farro: A form of wheat, farro is native to the Fertile Crescent and has been found in Egyptian tombs. Chewy and firm, this grain cooks quickly and can be used in both sweet and savory dishes.

Amaranth: Gaining a lot of popularity is this superfood of the ancients. Loaded with amino acids, protein and minerals, the tiny seeds are often ground into flour, popped in Mexico and India or mixed into dishes to give a nutty, earthy flavor. Gluten-free.

20 Bucks, 3 Ingredients, 1 Fancy-Pants Meal

The same cold that inspired The Great Pudding Experiment and kept my youngest home from school last week saw fit to share its wealth of fever and snot with the rest of the family over the weekend. One thing you have to give the common cold, it’s egalitarian in its distribution, a regular Communist Manifesto for low grade viruses.

My eldest daughter – along with me, this week’s guest of honor in the Kerson family Petri dish – smooths out life’s rougher edges with an aplomb far beyond her 10 tender years. Really, I often wish that I could roll with the punches as neatly as she does, and the example she sets makes me tremendously proud. A case in point, there she is over at the right, home sick with a nasty cold and a nearly-broken wrist, and she’s whisking eggs for the subject of this post, a recipe largely of her construction: a simplified version of Joel Robuchon’s epic pommes purees, with very gently scrambled eggs – almost a custard, the way I like to cook them – and big slug of truffle-y love.

To give credit where it’s due, I cook scrambled eggs and I cook mashed potatoes all the time, but generally not together. So, while both eggs and potatoes make quintessentially classic mates for truffles, it took my 5th grader to point out the you might want to put the one on top of the other; generally, I prefer to build dishes with more varied textures, but sometimes I can’t pile enough smooth, silky luxuriance onto one plate, and that’s the nut of my little Miss M’s idea. She also insisted that I take the blame for the truffles; her version depends instead on thick slab bacon for ballast, preferably from one of our fine local pig butchers such as Black Pig or Willowside, and who doesn’t like a little smoky, salty, pig fat with their fancy eggs and taters?

Coincidentally, or perhaps not, this dish of fingerling potato mousse with egg yolk and truffle, which I was lucky enough to eat on my birthday more than 10 years ago and which I remember to this day, has been on the menu forever at the legendary Taillevent in Paris, so the kid must be on to something. Granted, my daughter’s version turned out to be less clever-looking, but it’s cheaper by an order of magnitude, reproducible by mere mortals, and delicious all the same, and I can’t wait to try it again with fresh truffles and their jus instead of the jarred “cream” we brought home from Big John’s.

Gently Scrambled Eggs with Pommes Puree and Truffles (4 servings)

Ingredients: 2lb waxy potatoes (I love Yukon Golds, and they’re easy to find, but I’ve seen similar recipes call for all sorts; the main thing is that they be freshly dug, if at all possible); 1C of milk or cream, heated; as much cold butter as you can use with a clear conscious, cut into small cubes (seriously – you’d be shocked to read how much butter a classic Pommes Puree uses; but at least a stick, and you could double that if you were so inclined); 1 dozen very fresh eggs; (preferably from one of our many local chicken farmers; I prefer not to use Arucaunas, however, because the yolks tend not to be as golden) ; fresh or jarred truffles (whole, or in pieces, or in a “cream”, as mine were – at $14 for a little 1oz jar, they seem expensive, but the all-in, per-plate ends up at what you’d pay for a burrito).

Method:

  1. Scrub and boil the potatoes in their skins, until fork-tender to the core (this will take maybe 30 minutes; I’ve been known to cheat by peeling and cutting into pieces first to save time, but the product suffers).
  2. Whisk the eggs with a little salt and white pepper and a splash of water, milk or cream, and cook in a buttered, non-stick pan over very low heat, stirring to achieve a uniform consistency. The key to the eggs is to keep them moving and cook them very slowly (maybe 30 minutes for a dozen in a large pan).
  3. Drain and peel the cooked potatoes and – working quickly, it is vital that they remain hot – and pass through a ricer or a sieve. Mash in the cold butter in batches, add the hot milk or cream to achieve the desired consistency, and adjust the seasoning (they’ll take quite a bit of salt).
  4. Make a mound of potatoes in the bottom of a pasta bowl, press a well into the middle, fill with the scrambled eggs, and top with a quenelle of the truffle cream (or a pile of shavings, if fresh). Garnish with fleur de sel, and maybe some chives. (I’m actually not too keen on the presentation we came up with; if you come up with a prettier version, please send in the pic so I can post it and copy you!)

[Photo Credit for Taillevent Potatoes: The Closet Glutton]

 

World’s Best Restaurant’s Announced

Stealing some of the Michelin Guides’ thunder, restaurant ratings upstart San Pellegrino has announced the 50 Best Restaurants in the World for 2011. For the second year in a row, Denmark’s NOMA gets the top spot. The Fat Duck (UK) gets the #5 spot and Chicago’s Grant Achatz takes #6. Thomas Keller weighs in at #10 with Per Se (giving a Twitter should to his pal, Daniel Boulud at #11), but The French Laundry doesn’t even crack the top 50. The list extends to 100 restaurants.

See who gets the nod and who doesn’t (El Bulli was a notable exclusion, though it’s closure seemed to be the main reason). Bay Area’s Manresa and Coi get nods. How many have you been to? Any you’re especially dying to try?

1 Noma, Denmark
2 El Celler de Can Roca, Spain (+2)
3 Mugaritz, Spain (+2)
4 Osteria Francescana, Italy (+2): Chef’s Choice
5 The Fat Duck, U.K. (-2)
6 Alinea, U.S. (+1) Best Restaurant North America
7  D.O.M., Brazil (+11) Best Restaurant South America
8 Arzak, Spain (+1)
9 Le Chateaubriand, France (+2)
10 Per Se, U.S (same as last year)
11 Daniel, U.S. (-3)
12 Les Creations de Narisawa, Japan (+12)
13 L’Astrance, France (+3)
14 L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon, France (+15)
15 Hof van Cleve, Belgium ((+2)
16. Pierre Gagnaire, France (-3)
17 Oud Sluis Netherlands (+2)
18 Le Bernardin USA (-3)
19  L’Arpege France
20  Nihonryori RyuGin Japan (+28), Highest Climber
21 Vendome Germany (+1)
22  Steirereck Austria (-1)
23 Schloss Schauenstein Switzerland (+7)
24 Eleven Madison Park USA (+26)
25 Aqua Germany, (+9)
26 Quay Australia (+1)
27  Iggy’s Singapore  (+1)
28  Combal Zero Italy (+7)
29 Martin Berasategui Spain  (+4)
30  Bras France
31  Biko Mexico (+15)
32  Le Calandre Italy (-12)
33 Cracco Italy
34 New Entry The Ledbury UK Highest New Entry
35 Chez Dominique Finland   (-12)
36  Le Quartier Francais South Africa  (-5)
37 New Entry Amber China
38  Dal Pescatore Italy  (-2)
39  Il Canto Italy (+1)
40 Momofuku Ssam Bar USA  (-14)
41 St John UK  (+2)
42 New Entry Astrid Y Gaston Peru
43  Hibiscus UK   (+6)
44 — Maison Troisgros France
45  Alain Ducasse au Plaza Athenee France   (-4)
46  De Librije Netherlands   (-9)
47 Restaurant de l’Hotel De Ville Switzerland   (-33)
48 New Entry Varvary Russia
49 New Entry Pujol Mexico
50 Re-Entry Asador Etxebarri Spain

Petite Syrah | Santa Rosa

Gnocchi with peas and carrot foam
Gnocchi with peas and carrot foam
Gnocchi with peas and carrot foam

BiteClub got an exclusive sneak preview of a few dishes that will likely make the final cut as Petite Syrah begins shaking its chrysalis in preparation for it’s rebirth.

And while I’m going to save my big thoughts about the evolution and reinvention of Santa Rosa’s Syrah until the final menu emerges and the kitchen crew (Josh Silvers, Chef/owner; Jamil Peden, Chef de Cuisine; Seth Harvey, Exec Sous Chef) settle in, here’s the initial vibe…

Rather than simply scaled down versions of Josh’s upscale bistro fare, or being an imitation of pal Mark Stark & co’s wine bar small plates, Silvers, Peden and Harvey are working on more composed, chef-driven, seasonal cuisine menu at everyday price-points ($5 – $18). Silvers describes it as an evolution of his tasting menu to better reflect how people really eat — smaller portions and a variety of flavors.

Final dishes and prices are still in flux, but Young Escarole salad with Roaring 40s blue cheese and hazelnuts (around $8), Roasted and Shaved asparagus with sunflower sprouts and breadcrumbs (around $9), Crispy Quail with preserved grapefruit and “quail spice, (around $13) or Potato Gnocchi with fresh peas, carrots and carrot foam (around $11) seem almost ready for prime time.  Other plates under consideration are chilled oysters, crostini, pork belly with lentils, steak tartare with truffle aioli, panna cotta with strawberry and roasted squid, among others.

So why the change? “People would say, “Oh Syrah is so perfect,” to me all the time,” said Silvers. But when asked when they’d been in last, often the answer was for a particular celebration or special event months before. “I don’t want to be just a celebration restaurant,” he said of his 12-year-old Railroad Square bistro. The success of his more casual dining venture, Jackson’s Bar & Oven, also helped drive the inspiration for a renewed take on Syrah.

In addition to the menu change, the restaurant will also undergo a number of decor changes. Stay tuned….

Fieri alums plan Windsor restaurant, Kin

Two key members of Guy Fieri’s restaurant group are breaking off to start their own Windsor eatery, according to inside sources.

Taking over the recently vacated DePaoli’s on the Windsor Town Green, Brad Barmore and JC Adams plan to open a rustic stone-oven comfort food eatery focused on new American classics and Italian favorites. Named Kin, owners wanted a family-inclusive restaurant that wasn’t all about chicken nuggets and milkshakes — meaning grown up enough for the after-work crowd as well.

Barmore was GM for several of Fieri’s restaurants, as well as corporate beverage director, and sources say he’s hoping to do some interesting beers and wines at the restaurant.  Adams has been GM of two Johnny Garlics restaurants, including the Windsor location.

The menu is still in flux, but expect dishes like pizzas, lasagna, pasta, pork, chicken and seafood along with some tasty small plates.

Shimo’s $7.95 Noodle Bar

CLOSED

 

Serving up authentic bowls of ramen and soba suspended in pools of earthy shoyu, miso and ginger shiso dashi broth, Cyrus Chef Douglas Keane’s new noodle bar at Shimo Modern Steak is a cheap date with all the trimmings of a luxury dinner.

Rather than opening a fourth restaurant to sate his noodle passion (he has ownership stakes in Cyrus, HBG and Shimo), Keane has instead, introduced the steaming earthenware pots on Japanese lacquered trays to his recently-opened steakhouse.

Served only in the bar, it’s a generous DIY meal that starts at a thrifty $7.95 for a bowl of noodles and broth with bean sprouts, onion and nori. Add-ins range from humble roasted garlic and pickled ramps (.75 to $2) to wild mushrooms, a slow-cooked egg, and tofu ($2.50 to $3); pork belly, chicken, shrimp and prime rib ($4-$4.75) all the way up to waygu for $20 per ounce.

Best bets: Ramen miso with wild mushrooms, egg, and pork belly (for heartier fare) or a lighter ginger dashi with tofu, pickled ramps and watercress. Complex fermented, earthy, salty, vegetative and sea flavors can be unusual to American palates more used to more sweet and fruity dishes, but it’s worth getting out of your comfort zone on this one.

Bonus: A complimentary snack of crispy, spicy, salty fried wonton strips and wasabi aioli is gourmet crack that’ll have you jonesing for another fix. Regular menu items from Shiso are also available like the beef-essence biscuits and beef tartare that Mr. Jason refers to as “land sushi”. Plus, a full bar with top tipplers featuring yuzu and ginger, not to mention artisan sakes that will delight fans and sway non-believers.

“I’ve wanted to do this for a long time, but my family and friends said, ‘No more restaurants’,” Keane tells BiteClub.

241 Healdsburg Avenue, Healdsburg, 433.6000

Tex Wasabi’s to reopen in May

Tex Wasabi's
Santa Rosa’s Tex Wasabi’s has closed for repairs.

Tex Wasabi'sAfter a 19 month closure, Guy Fieri’s Santa Rosa outpost of Tex Wasabi’s will reopen in May. According to Fieri spokesman Brett Hutchison, heavy reconstruction on the the “Rock and Roll Sushi-Barbecue” restaurant, which shuttered in September 2009, is nearing completion.

“It will be well worth the wait,” said Hutchison. With the kitchen finished and new employees hired, Fieri’s crew are shooting for an ambitious early May debut — possibly just weeks away.

Keeping the “Far East meets Wild West” theme, familiar dishes are expected to stay on the menu, but with a bit more reserve. Hutchison said the layout and slightly consolidated menu will be more family-friendly to compete with other nearby restaurants. “The bar won’t be the first thing you see when you walk in,” he added. An upstairs mezzanine will have seating for 50, along with it’s own bar and the restaurant recently got final approval for limited outdoor seating.

So why the wait? The restaurant closed in after a faulty sewer pipe ruptured, causing severe water damage. As crews began renovations on the old building, more damage surfaced and more repairs were needed. “When you start pulling things away, we found out how bad it was, and we wanted to do this the right way,” Hutchison said.

The restaurant is one of five operated by Fieri’s restaurant group, including a Sacramento Tex Wasabi’s and three Johnny Garlic’s restaurants in Santa Rosa, Windsor and Roseville. A new Johnny Garlic’s is slated to open in Dublin in June. Rumors of a flashy Las Vegas restaurant for Fieri continue to make the rounds, but Hutchison brushes them off as purely speculation as Fieri ramps up for an upcoming book tour for Guy Fieri Food: More Than 150 Off-the-Hook Recipes (out in early May).

It’s the second major reopening in downtown Santa Rosa this spring as La Rosa Tequileria and Grille debuted in late April.

Bruno’s enters the food truck game

Rick Bruno of Bruno’s on Fourth is the latest entrant into the local mobile food scene with Charlie Bruno’s Chuckwagon debuting in May.

The chef/owner of a popular Santa Rosa bistro said he’s been considering taking his comfort food on the road for more than a year, and will focus heavily on catering and events gigs, but also plans to have some lunchtime street vending. With a starting menu of things like mac and cheese, BLT’s, calamari, chop salads and fish and chips, the plan is to prep the food in the restaurant kitchen, then cook the dishes to order on-site.

Bruno’s wife, Lynn, who is helping coordinate the trailer, said the Chuckwagon will have its official debut at the restaurant’s annual Backyard Barbecue on May 22.

 

Goodbye Syrah, Hello Petite Syrah

In case you missed the news, Chef Josh Silvers’ Railroad Square institution, Syrah Bistro closes April 16. The restaurant celebrates with a last hurrah dinner Saturday before shutting the doors and preparing for a whirlwind transformation. The restaurant is slated to reopen in early May as Petite Syrah (a play on the original name), a small-plates eatery.

Currently the new menu is “about 90 percent there,” according to Silvers. BiteClub hopes to have pictures and details after an early sneak peek on Monday. Of the closure of his Syrah, Silver says wistfully: “It’s bittersweet. I’m excited to start a new chapter, though.”

XXV to open

A new downtown Santa Rosa cafe, art and music venue is slated to open sometime in late summer, according to a sign posted in Courthouse Square. XXV (or Twenty Five) is located in a narrow interior space near the revamped La Rosa is currently gutted and in mid-construction.