Fair Food Scramble 2012

CONTEST CLOSED
Winners have been notified.
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You know the drill by now…it’s the Fair Food Scramble Contest in which BiteClub takes six lucky winners (consider yourself a sort of Charlie Bucket, Veruca Salt, etc.) tothe Sonoma County Fairscramble for all the delicious goodness that our midway can offer.

THIS YEAR’S EVENT TAKES PLACE WEDNESDAY, JULY 25 at 12:30 PM. 

From Pasta King to turkey legs, corn dogs, barbecue and beyond, we’ll snatch up whatever goodies we can find, bring it all back to our special reserve tables and feast like the true epicures we really are. (See pix of last year’s scramble) You should see the looks of wanton jealousy we attract.

So how do you get to participate?
This year’s a little different. I’m looking to create an A-Team of Awesomeness…You need to fit at least one of these jobs…

The Runners: At least two of you will be lighting quick and nimble on your feet. You’re gonna be tapped to be the speed on the team, because we need to cover as much ground as possible, as fast as possible. You will be expected to run, jump, leap and generally help The Scramblers with procurement. Age isn’t an issue if your Jazzy is fast. But plan to be worked hard.

The Investigator: You’ve got a mind of steel and a stomach to match. You’re going to make sure we’ve hit all the hot spots. You’ve impressed me with your knowledge of the food vendors, what we should order and you’ll keep the checklist to make sure we’ve got eaten everything we’ve planned to eat.

– The Chef/Foodie: You are a hardcore lover of food, and you know your stuff. You’ll help guide the group into making some decisions about what is good, what is great, and what is flipping unbelievable!

– The Alternative Eater: We want someone who will check out the stuff the rest of us will refuse. You’re looking for gluten-free, vegan, vegetarian and (gasp!) healthy options. But you’re also not going to be judging the rest of us for pigging out on meat, bacon and fried goodness. In fact, you ‘ll probably join us.

The Lemonader: Sorry, but this is an alcohol-free Scramble. However, we always forget to check out the beverages and desserts. You’re on top of this aspect, Scrambling to find the best lemonade and ice cream.

Other members of the team (already chosen)
– The Vet: Mike from 2011 will serve as our trusty old-timer.
– The Queen: Yeah, that’s me.

Leave your thoughts below, and SIX winners will be selected on MONDAY, July 23 at 5PM) . You’ll get the details on our funtabulous food fest, but make sure you can be available around 12:30 to about 2PM on WEDNESDAY, JULY 25. (I’ll call your boss if you need me to. Cause dang it, this is really more important that whatever you’re doing at work.)

You also need to be fun and willing to share you food. Otherwise, we’ll make you sit alone. No whiners. No changies. No dramarama. Or again, we make you sit alone and make fun of you.

Make sure you leave a good email address when you post, cause I’ll be alerting folks around after 5pm Monday, and i’ll need to hear from you by 11am TUESDAY or we move on. Life moves fast, baby.

Good luck! (full rules)

25 Iconic Sonoma County Dishes

Any true traveler will tell you that the best way to learn about a culture is to eat with (and like) the locals. But what are the dishes that define Sonoma County? Some might suggest “Wine Country” cuisine — Cal-Ital dishes with tweezer perfection. Maybe its seafood (true on the Coast). Or what about Mexican?

When you really ask around, it’s none of these. Instead, it’s an eclectic group of familiar dishes that snap to mind when a friendly visitor asks for a recommendation. The answers are part history, part geography and part nostalgia. Mix that all together and you get an icon — a dish that may not be the fanciest, the trendiest or even the most perfectly crafted, but notable for its own merits.

We’ve come up with 10 of the best, though the number of times we’ve changed up the participants speaks to its subjectivity. You’ll find more online (because ten hardly seems fair) as well as plenty of your comments online at BiteClubEats.com.

1. Catelli’s Ravioli: Tissue-paper thin sheets of pasta dough are rolled daily, stuffed with a secret combination of sausage, beef, chicken, chard, sourdough crumbs, herbs and spices. “Our family never wrote down a recipe, so we recreated these from sensory memories,” said Domenica Catelli. Topped with her eponymous DC sauce (a new family secret made with organic tomatoes and local olive oil), they’re old world comfort with a new school freshness. Family friend Guy Fieri calls them some of the best he’s ever had. But don’t ask for them to-go, because these delicate beauties apparently self-destruct within a few minutes and don’t travel well. 21047 Geyserville Ave., Geyserville, 857-3471. Closed Monday, open daily for lunch and dinner

2. Chicken Livers at Bistro Ralph: Fried up with onions is the only way to eat these little nuggets of iron-packed offal. You either love ’em or you don’t, but Bistro Ralph is the only place to find them consistently and consistently good. Can’t bear the thought of poultry innards? Chicken Paillard, a pounded breast with lemon and capers, is a great alternative. 109 Plaza St., Healdsburg, 433-1380.

3. Reuben at Mac’s Kosher Style Deli: This Fourth Street cafe is about as close as you’ll get to the Big Apple, when it comes to deli food in Sonoma County. This version is unfussy, with tart sauerkraut, toasted rye bread, thousand island dressing, corned beef and Swiss. With fries, naturally. 630 4th St., Santa Rosa, 545-3785.

4. Harissa fries at Underwood: Garlic fries are fine, but West County’s favorite bar puts a spicy North African spin on their frites. Rolled in harissa, a spicy (but not hot) paste peppers and spices, they’re an iconic late-night eat. 9113 Graton Rd., Graton, 823-7023. We can’t mention fries, however, without a nod to the truffle fries at Willi’s Wine Bar, a dressed-up side dish that goes super model with the addition of truffled aioli. (4404 Old Redwood Highway, Santa Rosa, 526-3096).

5. Meatballs at Mary’s Pizza Shack: It’s our homegrown, hometown pizzeria where the sauces are still made from scratch and plenty of folks still remember the original Mary. But its the giant meatballs smothered in meat sauce and melted mozzarella that folks have a fondness for. Various locations, including 614 Fourth St., Santa Rosa, 571-1959.

6. Fresh mozzarella at Rosso: Chef John Franchetti has many talents, but the one that keeps him busiest is his cheese making. The master of curds has a special way with creamy, fresh mozzarella. Stuffed with ricotta, melted on a wood-fired pizza or just drizzled with olive oil, it will make you swear off chewy, dry mozzarellas forever. New mozzarella bar at 151 Petaluma Blvd S., Petaluma; 53 Montgomery Dr., Santa Rosa, 544-3221.

7. Martini Prawns at Gary Chu’s: Even if Gary didn’t invent these devilishly crispy shrimps awash in a sweet-savory mayonnaise sauce, Sonoma County is happy to give him full credit. Served up in a martini glass, these prawns put cocktail shrimp to shame. 611 5th St., Santa Rosa, 526-5840.

8. Sticky Bun at Downtown Bakery and Creamery: If you haven’t stopped in lately for a sticky bun, there’s no doubt in my mind that the flaky, crispy, spicy buns of goodness are the best in Sonoma County. If not the planet. Not surprisingly the bakery was started by Chez Panisse alums in 1987, and since then the original recipes have only aged to perfection. 308 Center Street Healdsburg, 431-2719.

9. Turkey dinner at Willie Bird’s: There’s nothing snooty or modern about Willie Bird’s Restaurant. In fact, that’s exactly the appeal: Year-round Thanksgiving dinners of turkey (white or dark), scoops of mashed potatoes and cranberry sauce all slathered with a sturdy brown gravy. And while the sides aren’t anything to write home about, the turkey is always impeccable — fresh Willie Bird turkey, raised in Sonoma County by the Benedetti family. 1150 Santa Rosa Ave., Santa Rosa, 542-0861.

10. Fig salad at the Girl and the Fig: Chef Sondra Bernstein is legendary for her goat cheese, arugula and fig salad, and with good reason. It combines spicy greens, sweet figs, creamy cheese and a tart vinaigrette in soul-satisfying harmony. 110 West Spain Street, Sonoma, 938-3634.

11. Porky goodness at Zazu:Black Pig Meat is the bacon business of John Stewart and Duskie Estes, who have proven again and again that they’re the undisputed King and Queen of Pork. Anything they cook up with venerable pig parts is worth checking out. Now with a pork-centric spot on the Russian River, you’ve got no excuse not to indulge.

12. Caesar Salad at Cafe Citti. Though my grandma would argue that it’s the tuna-egg-mayo.

13. Sweetbreads at La Gare.

14. Apple Pie at Mom’s Apple Pie.

15. Fried Green Beans at Zin Restaurant. Liberty Duck at Petite Syrah.

16. Donuts and the Farmer Benedict at Dierk’s Parkside Cafe. Pancakes at Hank’s Creekside.

17. French onion soup and sourdough at Costeaux Bakery.

18. Gnocchi at Graziano’s.

19. Rabbit, Rabbit, Rabbit at the Farmhouse Inn.

20. A burger at Mike’s at the Crossroads.

21. Wild boar at Cafe Europe or Lococo’s.

22. Foccaccia at Wild Flour Bakery.

23. Mateo’s Tamales.

I’m leaving two openings for your best suggestions below…

24. ??

25.  ??

 

 

Lakeside Grill opening

July 21 (Saturday): Lakeside Grill at Spring Lake Park opens

Featuring “Sunset Dinners”, a breakfast buffet and weekend brunches, Spring Lake’s once-sorry concession stand gets an extreme makeover when it reopens this weekend as Lakeside Grill.

Located near the swimming lagoon, the grill will feature a 140-seat outdoor space with 35 patio tables and 16 lounge chairs, and outdoor kitchen, complete with wood-fired oven, barbeque smoker and a grill. Morning walkers can grab energy bars, coffee and juice from 9-11am; weekend brunch includes a buffet, salad bar and barbecue buffet ($14 adults, $7 kids); wood-fired oven pizza and ‘que lunches from 11am to 4:30pm; happy hour of fresh oysters, beer and wine from 2-5pm daily; and sunset dinners with weekly themes of southern bbq, Italian, fish, tapas and all-American favorites from 5pm to dusk ($14).

Also at Spring Lake, food trucks continue to convene on Tuesday evenings at the boat-ramp parking lot.

Basque Boulangerie changing hands

Early morning baking at Basque/Crista Jeremiason

Longtime owners of Sonoma’s Basque Boulangerie have confirmed plans to sell over their 20-year-old bakery later this summer. Though the sale is still pending, Ron and Francoise Hodges along with co-owner/baker Jack Montaldo hope to transfer ownership to Harman “Sunny” Bajwa of San Ramon in August.

It’s a bittersweet move for the partners. “The cafe was the center of life for us,” said Francoise, reached by phone today.  “The staff are like our kids, but there were no kids to take over the business,” she said, of the decision to retire. Tired of long hours and needing to care for family, 20 years seemed like the right time to pass the baguette to a new generation. The couple don’t have children of their own, however, to take over the business and longtime staff weren’t interested in the burden of ownership. Several months ago, they started entertaining offers to buy the business.

“We turned down several people who wanted to change everything,” she said. Bajwa, a district manager for Noah’s Bagels told owners he wanted to keep the bakery, the staff and the product exactly the same. “He wants to make it a family tradition, like it’s been a family tradition for us,” Francoise said.

Hodges parents were the owners of the original Sonoma French Bakery, which opened in 1956. After selling the business in 1989, the bakery went through several ownership changes and ultimately dissolved. In 1994, the Hodges and Jack Montaldo (who was a baker at Sonoma French bakery) opened Basque Boulangerie Cafe as a restaurant and bakeshop on the square with the old world feeling of their parent’s bakery.

Over the last 20 years, the cafe has become the town’s gathering spot– where locals meet for coffee and fresh pastries or a sandwich. There’s usually a line of folks waiting to bring home a loaf of their Parisian style breads which have won numerous Harvest Fair awards. A number of local restaurants and groceries also stock their baguettes. The bakery has grown from three employees to more than 60.

Early morning baking at Basque/Crista Jeremiason
Early morning baking at Basque/Crista Jeremiason

As to the future, the partners are hoping for a seamless transition for customers and wholesale accounts. “The name stays the same, we’ll have the same pictures on the wall, the same bakers, the same staff. That’s our intention,” she said. Asked about any secret family recipes that may be leaving with them, Francoise laughs. “There isn’t any secret recipe. It’s just about handmade products you have to wait for,” she said.

Don’t expect an vanishing act by the Hodges anytime soon, however. Francoise and her husband plan to stick around long after the sale. “People are used to checking in with us,” she said. “We’re not going anywhere. We’ll just be drinking coffee with them on the other side of the counter.”

 

Wine Country Big Q Results

The Tex Wasabi’s All Star Team

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Here are the winners of the second annual Wine Country Big Q, held Saturday, July 14, 2012 at Sonoma Academy in Santa Rosa. The KCBS-judged event ranked some of the top national and local barbecue pit masters against each other in a smoky tete-a-tete of pig, beef, lamb and sauce.

The Inside ‘Que

– Judging is serious business. Unless you’ve got your KCBS credentials, don’t expect a spot at the judging tables. However, the leftover table outside the judging room is not a bad place to hang out.

– 56 Stairs to Hell: What the contestants called the 56 steps they had to climb to the judging area in the brief 10 minute window before dropping off their meats. Watching BBQ pitmasters do a dead run up nearly six flights of stairs is impressive. Especially when the head judge is yelling “30 seconds!”

– Pignut Barbecue rocks. This local team, on their maiden voyage, does some stellar ‘que and even more stellar sauces. Let’s hope we see more of these guys.

– Eating a pound of meat isn’t as easy as it sounds.

– Woodhouse BBQ are serious competitors, especially when giving out their world-famous chocolates with tasty ribs.

– Ringers don’t always win.

Top 5 placings in Chicken (any cut)
1. Hog Island Pitmasters, Discovery Bay, CA

2. Woodhouse Barbecue, St. Helena, CA

3. Smoke Slayers, Sunnyvale, CA

4. R&R BBQ, Taylorsville, UT

5. I.A.B. 30 BBQ, Gilbert, AZ

Top 5 placings in Pork Ribs
1. R&R BBQ

2. Bad S. BBQ

3. Tex Wasabi’s All Stars, Santa Rosa (Ray Lambe head cook from Florida and Gorilla of Gorilla’s Barbecue is from Pacifica)

4. Big O’s BBQ 2HOT4U, Meridian, CA

5. I.A.B. 30 BBQ

Top 5 placings in Pork (can be pulled, chunked or sliced) typically shoulder or boston butt
1. Smokey Luv BBQ, Novato, CA

2. R&R BBQ

3. Woodhouse Barbecue

4. Casual Smokers, (from Kansas City, MO) now live in Dublin, CA

5. Smoke Slayers

Top 5 placings in Beef Brisket
1. I.A.B. 30 BBQ

2. Casual Smokers

3. Hog Island Pitmasters

4. Woodhouse Barbecue

5. R&R BBQ

Lamb – Niman Ranch and American Lamb Board donated bone in leg of lamb for all contestants. The winner of this class received a perfect score 180 points. This is very uncommon, but this is the 5th perfect score for Mary Odor. And this is her first time cooking lamb plus she didn’t even take a taste of it.
1. Biq O’s BBQ 2HOT4U

2. Smokey Luv BBQ

3. Dads Doing What they Love, Los Altos, CA

Mystery Meat was Pork Bellies, each team received 2 pork bellies provided by Niman Ranch and co-sponsored by American AgCredit.
1. Smoke Slayers

Reserve Grand Champion
I.A.B. 30 BBQ of Gilbert, AZ (they have family in town, on their way here from Arizona they were hit by a drunk driver that shoved their motor home into a 18 wheeler (just past the Grapevine). They had to be towed to a location to get their rig fixed so they could compete at Wine Country Big Q. Their motor home is their prep station.

Grand Champion
R&R Barbecue of Taylorsville, UT
The Grand Champion qualifies to attend the Kansas City Royal this October one of the Grand Daddy’s of competition.

People’s Choice Award for Bold Bean Challenge
Baird’s BBQ of Santa Rosa

People’s Choice Award for the Winery Big Beef Challenge
Kendall-Jackson Winery of Santa Rosa

People’s Choice Award for Barbecue
Barbecue Bob and the Smokin’ Banditos of Cloverdale (Hamburger Ranch)

Rootstock 2012: The Food Winners

The judges have spoken, and here are the results of the Rootstock Best Bites Competition are as follows:

Best Fried: Nellie’s Oysters. Okay, so barbecued oysters and fresh ahi tuna poke are their bread and butter, but the fried calamari and fish? Yeah, crispy, crunchy and just about perfect. Five out of five judges agree.

Most Creative:Bay Laurel Culinary with an Issan Style Dog (Thai shredded pork with spicy chili, mayo and green papaya relish) and the Korean Sloppy Joe with sesame mayo and kimchee.

Best use of Meat: La Texanita. Carne asada. ‘Nuf said.

Best Use of Local Products: We wanted to give John Franchetti (of Rosso) the Meat award for the lush roasted pig (plus crunchy skin) he served up as sliders with slaw at the event. But even closer to our heart is John’s unwavering commitment to local farmers and local products. So, our hats are off to you, Rosso.

Best Presentation: Street Eatz is another perennial favorite who we wish could have won multiple categories. But what really took us was her bento box approach to traditional Japanese isayaki. The plate included soba noodles, her unmatched agadashi, teriyaki chicken, rice and steamed broccoli. Mmmm.

Grand Poobah and Best Overall:
Gabe is the upstart who just killed it at Rootstock. First off, you kind of can’t go wrong by bringing the judges a PLATTER of food that included local lamb (from Victorian Farmstead), baba ganoush, chickpeas, rice, dolmas, hummus and a separate plate of magic goodness I can’t even remember (other than it was incredible). Then there was the Tahini Ice Cream. Then there was the Affagado Ice Cream. We die.

Thanks to everyone who participated, including The Judges: Teresa Smith (our BiteClub winner), Chef Christopher Hansen, Brian Howlett, Heather Irwin, Hans Dippel. As well as organizers Joel Quigley and Cailyn McCauley and all the folks at Vintner’s Square.

Missed it? Rootstock is a food, wine, art and music festival held right here in Santa Rosa at Santa Rosa’s Vintner’s Square. There’s a wine and craft brew tasting, gourmet street foods, and live music from the main stage including indie singer-songwriters Jim Bianco, Holly Conlan, Jesse Thomas and Javier Dunn.

 

Win Gloria Ferrer Catalan Fest Tix


CONTEST CLOSED: CONGRATS ROBIN

 

Celebrate Spanish culture in all of its Flamenco dancing, paella-eating, guitar-strumming glory at the Gloria Ferrer’s 20th annual Catalan Festival. The two-day event July 21 and 22 at the Sonoma winery features all that, plus grape stomping, tapas, wine-tasting seminars and of course, plenty of Gloria Ferrer wines to sip and sample.

Want to go? (Of course you do.) Here’s what you gotta do to win two tickets…

In the comments below, tell BiteClub about your favorite Spanish-inspired food and wine pairing. Is it paella with cava? Some verdejo with Manchego , or perhaps a bottle of Va de Vi and some Spanish love poetry with your honey? It’s up to you.

The most inspiring answer wins a pair of VIP tickets that includes admission for two, 2 drink tickets and 4 food tickets per person. Read the full rules here.

MUST BE 21 to enter, decision of the judge (that’s me) is final. Contest closes Thursday at noon, and you must claim your prize by 3pm Thursday afternoon (so use a real email address you check frequently) or the judge will pick a second-runner up.

 Just want to buy tickets? Details at http://www.gloriaferrer.com/catalan-festival or http://www.facebook.com/gloriaferrer

Download Catalan Festival Event Schedule
Download Catalan Festival Flyer

See some frun from last year.

Flying Goat’s Phil Anacker

Flying Goat's Phil Anacker

In the beginning, there was Robusta. It was the charcoal-colored stuff that dripped into your Mr. Coffee in the morning, scooped from cans the size of oil barrels and freeze-dried within an inch of its life. And no matter how much cream and sugar was added, it was not good. Robusta begat Arabica, a coffee that introduced America to baristas and the grande macchiato. It was better, but still not great.

Now cresting is a third wave of coffee that’s all about pour-overs, globe-trotting coffee buyers, micro-roasting and the quest for the ultimate cup. At the curl is Sonoma County’s  Phil Anacker, co-owner of Healdsburg’s Flying Goat Coffee Company.

Sometimes referred to as our very own Yoda of coffee, Anacker has been on a nearly 20 year quest to find single-origin coffees from small producers that live up to his exacting standards. Scouring 13 of the world’s best coffee growing regions, from Ethiopia to Central America, his passport is a testament to his passion. “I just had to replace it,” he says, having filled the pages.

But his real mission is to get the rest of us to put down our caramel frappa-whatevers and actually taste a real cup of coffee.

“Coffee is something people drink every day, but most of us have no idea how it gets into the cup,” says Anacker. The second-most traded commodity in the world (after oil), coffee is ubiquitous, but all too often over-roasted to mask cheap, poorly harvested beans. Anacker buys small lots of some of the best coffees in the world.

In the back room of the Healdsburg warehouse that houses the company’s roaster, he demonstrates the process (which incidentally has a lot in common with wine tasting) of “cupping”, something he does up to 20 times a day to test out new batches of coffee. It involves pouring 200-degree water over roughly ground beans, a lot of sniffing and loud slurping to extract the flavors of each individual coffee. Some are more acidic. Others have sweet or fruity qualities. But none of it has the bitter, harsh qualities most of us identify with most coffees.

His staff often participate in the cuppings, and baristas in Healdsburg and the Santa Rosa outpost spend up to four months learning (and being tested) in the ways of coffee culture.

Soon, the Flying Goat will offer a Brew Bar for customers to sample some of its most exclusive coffees. Brewed cup by cup, these are top-flight pours from some of Anacker’s favorite producers from around the globe. Like San Francisco’s Blue Bottle, Ritual Roasters or Four Barrel, the concept is to expose coffee drinkers to a cup of coffee that’s been carefully managed from seed to mug. Perfectly picked. Perfectly roasted. Perfectly brewed.

So good, that you won’t need to spend 5 minutes at the condiment station masking the flavor.

“Our whole focus is to have people try different coffees and see how good they are. You don’t have to be a sugar and cream zombie,” says Anacker.

Flying Goat Coffee, 10 Fourth St., Santa Rosa, (707) 575-1202; 324 Center Street, Healdsburg, (707) 433-9081 and 419 Center St., Healdsburg, 433-8003.

Star Chefs Dream Dinner

This is a dream dinner of epic proportions, with an epic price tag to match. On July 29, 2102 the Four Star Chefs (as named by the SF Chron) converge on Quince for a once-in-a-lifetime meal.

On the roster:

  • Douglas Keane, Cyrus
  • Thomas Keller, The French Laundry
  • David Kinch, Manresa
  • Christopher Kostow, The Restaurant at Meadowood
  • Corey Lee, Benu
  • Roland Passot, La Folie
  • Daniel Patterson, Coi
  • Michael Tusk, Quince Restaurant
  • Alice Waters, Chez Panisse

If you’re not breathing heavily by now (and really, you should be), “the nine-course menu will be paired with wines hand-selected by the restaurants’ talented Wine Directors.”

The menu is still under wraps, but I’m sure we’ll be hearing more in the coming weeks. Now the cost: $2,500/Couple (limit 4 seats per person) and $1,500/Single. That hurt to write.

The meal is a benefit for the San Francisco and Marin Food Banks.

If you’re a high roller, here are the details: To make reservations, please call (415) 775-8500 x 31 or email 4stardinner@quincerestaurant.com or check out the details here.

 

Cyrus closing?!

Cyrus restaurant may reopen near Geyserville.

After several years of disputes and lawsuits between Healdsburg’s Michelin-starred Cyrus Restaurant and their Les Mars Hotel landlords, it was announced today that the restaurant will close October 29, 2012.

Crossroads Winery, LP, owned by investor Bill Foley, will take over ownership of the restaurant space inside the Les Mars. Foley is the owner of Chalk Hill Winery, Sebastiani Vineyard and Winery in Sonoma; Merus, Altvus, Kuleto Estate in Napa as well as numerous wineries throughout California and Washington and New Zealand. He co-owns the Les Mars with David Fink.

Despite a very public airing of their disagreements, Cyrus chef Douglas Keane is positive about the ultimate decision to shutter his restaurant. “It’s a good thing. This makes a lot of sense. Nick (Peyton, his business partner) and I are happy. There were a lot of misunderstood passions.”

The big question, however, is what’s next.

The restaurant will remain open for business, and throughout the fall, Keane will showcase some of the all-time favorite dishes from the seven-year stint of the restaurant. After that, he and Peyton will continue to run Healdsburg Bar and Grill. They have maintained the rights to the Cyrus brand, though aren’t making any immediate plans to relocate or reopen a new restaurant right now.

“I want to have some fun. I have nothing solid planned,” Keane said. He does plan to spend some time working with rescue dogs and spending time with his wife. “Maybe we’ll bring back the two martini lunch,” he laughs.

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