Page 551 – Sonoma Magazine

Gaga eats at Catelli’s and Girl and the Fig

February 2012

By biteclub

Is Gaga gaga for Sonoma?

Singer Lady Gaga was spotted at two Sonoma County restaurants over the weekend — Geyserville’s Catelli’s Restaurant and The Girl and the Fig in Sonoma,

Visiting Wine Country with boyfriend Taylor Kinney, Gaga supped on Catelli’s legendary 10-layer lasagna, kale salad and the Rabbit Bolognese Saturday night. For dessert, staff created a treat that featured the words, “We Heart Gaga” written in chocolate. A kitchen tour and several pix with staff and visitors were icing on the cake.

Catelli’s co-owner Domenica Catelli has been consulting with Gaga’s parents, Joe and Cynthia Germanotta, on their new Italian restaurant, Joanne, in NYC. A friend of co-owner, Art Smith, Catelli spent New Year’s Eve at Joanne, where she met Gaga.

“She is so awesome. I have a great relationship with her family and her mom. They’re a very loving Italian family,” said Catelli.

When Gaga asked where to go the following day for lunch, Catelli sent her to Sonoma’s Girl and the Fig.

There, she and Kinney dined on mussels, beet salad, fig salad, a Croque Monsieur with egg, steak frites and a Fig Kiss cocktail late Sunday afternoon. Word is she and Kinney sat at the bar and ordered several cocktails, including a special concoction made with blood oranges.

The county’s abuzz with rumors that Gaga could be house-hunting in the area, but insiders are keeping their poker faces on this one.

See the original story by Geyserville correspondent Deborah Serval.

Market meets to discuss its future

February 2012

By biteclub

With the future of the Santa Rosa Original Certified Farmers Market in flux, about 200 market vendors and customers packed into the Veterans Memorial Hall on Saturday to discuss its fate with the new board of directors.

Reading from a three-page prepared statement, board secretary Lesley Brabyn of Salmon Creek Ranch said the board, installed Jan. 28, had been blindsided by the county’s recent decision not to renew the market’s longtime lease.

Throughout the morning, news that the market had lost its lease buzzed from stall to stall, with customers mostly confused and vendors trying to piece together what information they could.

At stake is the continuation of the county’s popular year-round farm market. Each week in the parking lot of the Veterans Memorial Hall, nearly 100 vendors offer meat, cheese, produce, baked goods and crafts on Wednesdays and Saturdays.

For the time being, that will stay the same. But come July, a new market operator is slated to take over.

County officials said Friday that a new entity, Redwood Empire Farmers Markets, had signed a new, more expensive lease and would run the market starting July 4.

In the sometimes contentious hourlong meeting Saturday, board representatives said they weren’t given time to let members vote on a proposed 167 percent fee hike. They said the county’s Regional Parks Department had rushed into leasing the space to a new operator without “due process.”

Brabyn also said that a lawsuit filed against the market and individual board members by Gleason Ranch owners had been a major distraction to pursuing the lease. “Rent could have probably been resolved if resources not been distracted by this lawsuit,” she said.

In questions from the audience, concerns included who the new market managers would be, whether the market could stay in its current location and, if not, where it might move to.

Brabyn said that the board had begun looking for possible new locations in Railroad Square or possibly at the Fairgrounds near the jockey club, but ultimately hoped the county would rescind its decision not to renew their lease.

The board made only brief reference to the new operators, Redwood Empire Farmers Markets. The fledgling group, made up primarily of former and current market vendors, was in attendance.

Spokesman Rob Cary said all current vendors would be invited to apply for the new market. During the meeting, several individuals expressed hope that the two markets could work together, but Braybn said “quite a few vendors have no plans to operate under new management.”

For their part, vendors expressed concern about negative publicity and how it might affect the market’s popularity.

“I’m worried about how customers are going to see the conflict. If you upset the customers and they have a bad taste, they won’t come. And then no one here will be successful,” said Shannon Hoffmann of Crumb Hither, who has been at the market for three years.

Market customer Irema Sivcevic said she wants to see continuity. “I see a thriving market. I like how it is running, and I like the uniqueness of the market. That is what I want to keep. For the politics, I don’t care,” she said.

Longtime market participants noted that management upheaval at the market isn’t new.

“This market has forever been in discord. This is not the first or the last time,” said Ross BeVier, a longtime vendor. “As long as there is a democratic process, there is going to be dissent.”

County ends SR Farmers Market Lease

February 2012

By biteclub

Sonoma County has decided not to renew its lease with the Santa Rosa Original Certified Farmers Market.

After months of negotiations, financial reports and public showdowns over a proposed rent hike at the Santa Rosa Veteran’s Hall, Sonoma County Regional Parks officials have accepted a new entity, The Redwood Empire Farmers’ Markets, as tenant. They will begin operations at Veteran’s Hall in Santa Rosa in July 2012.

According to Regional Parks Director Caryl Hart, whose department oversees the operation of the Veteran’s Hall, “I had a space and a set price for it. The (Redwood Empire Farmers Markets) wanted to pay the full amount.” She said that the current market lease expires on June 30, 2012.

At issue was a proposed rent increase beginning in July that would nearly double the current annual fees of $23,875 paid by the market for the use of the Veteran’s Hall parking lot on Wednesdays and Saturdays. Market manager Paula Downing balked at the increase, claiming that the $57,660 annual rental price proposed by the county would end up hurting local farmers and the market. For the past 10 years, the Santa Rosa Original Farmers Market paid a significantly discounted rate — up to 75 percent lower than what would normally be asked — to use the lot at Brookwood and Maple avenues. That’s added up to more than $156,000 in rent breaks, according to records.

However, financial records submitted by Downing to show the market’s income and expenses, and ultimately its need for continued subsidies by the county failed to convince officials.

“This is very valuable public space and there is a lot of demand for it. We’ve given a lot of concessions, and as a landlord it was clear to me that (the existing market) was not interested in doing business with the county,” Hart said. “The new group has the space reserved and have put down the deposit.”

The new market organization is a collection of current market vendors, farmers and community members, according to spokesman Rob Cary, former Sebastopol Community Center Director. The group is in the process of formalizing its board of directors, bylaws and certification, but Cary said he hopes to make the transition seamless for the public.

“The new market will continue (on Wednesday and Saturday) at the Veteran’s building without interruption, under new management. The stall rates will remain the same as they currently are. We want to have a smooth transition for everyone,” said Cary. Downing will be invited to apply for the new market manager position and Cary said there will be no fee increases for the vendors of the Redwood Empire Farmers’ Markets to offset the rent increase.

For Downing, the changeover amounts to a coup. In a blog post on the farm market website, she announced early Friday that the county had, “unilaterally and arbitrarily terminated the market’s lease negotiations and announced that they have made arrangements with another farmers market” without her official knowledge. She has asked the public and current vendors to meet at the Veteran’s Hall at 1:30pm on Saturday, Feb. 25 to discuss the future of the current market. “Not only has the rent been raised substantially, but some of our members/vendors…are bidding on this space in hope of replacing the market with a market of their own!” claimed a flier Downing passed out at last Saturday’s market.

Downing hopes to keep interest alive in maintaining the current market leadership and possibly changing the county’s mind about the space. “I’ve done enough politics to know that it’s never over and not to give up hope,” she said. Downing also said she is looking at possible new spaces for the existing market in Santa Rosa. “This is very emotional. I feel really sad. I feel like I have responsibility to these (vendors and farmers).”

An undercurrent to much of the upheaval is a public feud inside the market that’s been simmering since 2010. A number of vendors called for the firing of Downing from the market, ultimately removing her and installing a new board of directors. Weeks later, however, Downing and the original board were reinstated. After the tousle, several vendors alleged retaliatory acts by Downing, including the owners of Gleason Ranch who filed a pending lawsuit against the market in 2011. Former and current members of the market, including the owners of Gleason Ranch, have been supportive of the creation of the Redwood Empire Farmers’ Market.

Regardless of the history, for the county, a tenant means a new start.

“This is a fresh opportunity,” said Hart. “From my perspective it would be best if everyone could come together and stop all the acrimony. The number one interest of the county is a market that provides healthy local food in a vibrant and positive way,” said Hart. “Sometimes change is good.”

Boudin SF coming to Montgomery Village

February 2012

By biteclub

A 4,000 square foot Boudin/SF restaurant and bakery is slated for construction at Santa Rosa’s Montgomery Village, according to owner David Codding.

Announced today, Codding plans to demolish the existing building at the corner of Farmers Lane and Montgomery Drive, moving the footprint of the new site closer to Montgomery Drive. The most recent tenant of 11,2000 square foot building, Copperfield’s Books, relocated to a smaller Montgomery Village location in November.

In addition to the Boudin/SF, the new building will also include a 1828 square-foot ACRE coffee shop with a covered and heated patio. The new building will reuse salvageable redwood timbers, according to Codding.

Boudin, based in San Francisco, has 22 locations throughout California. The Boudin family is credited with “the original San Francisco Sourdough”, with their original location at Fisherman’s Wharf in 1849. ACRE is a locally-owned coffee shop with a location in Petaluma and second planned location in Sebastopol.

Plans to raze the building at Coddingtown have been in the works off and on since 2009.

Restaurant Week Guide 2012 in Sonoma County

February 2012

By biteclub

Prepare your forks, get out your fat pants and warm up your taste buds: Sonoma County Restaurant Week is about to begin.

Now in its third year, the county-wide restaurant showcase (Feb. 27 through March 4) has found solid footing with more than 90 restaurants participating in a week of prix-fixe dinners from Cloverdale to Petaluma.

At a time of year when restaurants can feel the pinch of the mid-winter doldrums, it’s a welcome financial boost. And unlike in past years, the brunt of the three-course menus are in the $19 and $29 range — making it an affordable way to sample several restaurants throughout the seven day event. But even at $39, three course dinners are higher end spots like Zazu, John Ash & Co., Petite Syrah and Stark’s Steak & Seafood are priced for tasting.

With eager crowds catching on, restaurants can be busier-than-usual and reservations are suggested to ensure your spot.

Here’s a completish list (new restaurants are still being added) of restaurants participating, according to SonomaCountyRestaurantWeek.org.

Santa Rosa, Rohnert Park
Sazon Peruvian Cuisine, $29: A fusion of Spanish, South American and Japanese culinary influences make every dish sing with flavor, texture and color. Ceviche — seafood lightly “cooked” in citrus — is a standout here (don’t let a drop of the “Leche de Tigre” escape uneaten). Other items include wok-fried steak and rice, Peruvian style paella, and lucuma (a maple-flavored fruit) ice cream. 1129 Sebastopol Road, Santa Rosa.

Viola Pastry Boutique, $19: A favorite local bistro with tons of heart. Fried pickles or grilled asparagus, braised beef with mushrooms, chicken pot pie, whoopie pie with vanilla ice cream. 709 Village Court, Santa Rosa.

Stark’s Steak & Seafood, $39: Surf or turf, you can’t go wrong. Ribeye or petrale sole with roasted grapes, chocolate souffle cake with Knob Creek butter pecan ice cream. 521 Adams St., Santa Rosa.

Zazu restaurant and farm, $39: The king and queen of pork serve up Duroc pork cheeks, Caesar and a dessert of lemon posset and rosewater shortbread. 3535 Guerneville Rd., Santa Rosa.

Bruno’s on Fourth, $29: Classic American comfort food with a neighborhood bistro vibe. Clam chowder or bruschetta, wedge salad with bacon and homemade blue cheese dressing, Dungeness crab fettucine, chicken with lemon caper sauce or Bruno’s meatloaf (the meatloaf that even meatloaf-haters can’t resist) with mashed potatoes. 1226 Fourth St., Santa Rosa.

Jackson’s Bar and Oven, $19: Asparagus salad, pizza with walnut pesto ricotta and prosciutto, tiramisu.135 Fourth St., Santa Rosa. Nearby: Petite Syrah, $39: Caesar salad, braised short rib with Brussels sprouts, chocolate puddle cake, 205 Fifth St., Santa Rosa.

Want more? La Gare, $29; La Rosa Tequileria & Grille, $29; Monti’s Rotisserie & Bar, $29; Bistro 29, $29; Willi’s Wine Bar, $29; John Ash & Co, $39.

Also: Sea Thai Bistro, $29: 2323 Sonoma Ave., Santa Rosa; Nonni’s Ristorante Italiano, Riveiera Ristorante, $29, 75 Montgomery Dr., Santa Rosa; Ca’Bianca Restaurant, $29, 835 Second St., Santa Rosa.; Terrace Grille at the Flamingo Resort, $29, 2777 Fourth St., Santa Rosa; Cricklewood, $19 and $29 menu, 4618 Old Redwood Hwy, Santa Rosa; Union Hotel Restaurant at Mission Blvd, $19, 280 Mission Blvd., Santa Rosa; The Great American Grill at the Hilton Garden Inn, $29, 417 Aviation Blvd., Santa Rosa (coffee-crusted sirloin steak, chocolate nut torta) ; Checker’s Bistro, 523 Fourth St., Santa Rosa.

And even more: Iron Stone, $19 and $39, 308 Wilson St., Santa Rosa; Roberto’s Trattoria Lupo, $29; Caffe Portofino, $29, 535 4th St., Santa Rosa; The Brasserie Restaurant and Lounge, $29, (ginger snap cannoli, sauteed chicken with herb spaetzle, short rib pot pie), 170 Railroad St., Santa Rosa; Nectar Restaurant and Lounge, $29, 3555 Round Barn Blvd., Santa Rosa; El Coqui Puerto Rican Cuisine, $19, Cattlemens, $29; La Vera Pizza, $19; Fresh by Lisa Hemenway, $19, $29, $29; Legends Restaurant, $19, Sizzling Tandoor, $19, Doc Holliday’s Saloon, $19, Jack and Tony’s Restaurant and Whiskey Bar, $29; Rendez Vous Bistro, $29, Equus Restaurant and Loungebar, $29; Baccus Restaurant and Wine Bar, $29; 1 Doubletree Dr., Rohnert Park includes baked potato bisque, lamb osso buco, oak planked salmon, banana bread pudding.

Healdsburg, Forestville, Windsor
Corks at Russian River Vineyards, $39: One of the best views in Wine country, this Forestville-adjacent winery and restaurant has a top toque in the kitchen, but often falls under the radar. The luxe prix fixe includes creamy cauliflower soup with Himalayan truffles or smoked Alaskan Wild Salmon with horseradish creme fraiche; butternut squash ravioli with sage brown butter, pan-seared Sea Bass with truffle risotto cake or crispy dug confit and chocolate bread pudding or lemon curd tart for dessert. 5700 Hwy 116 N, Forestville.

Barndiva, $39: Locally-sourced produce, industrial farm-chic design and a top-ranked chef (Ryan Fancher) make this Healsburg’s top spot for celeb sightings. RW menu includes Beet and endive salad with avocado, mache and chevre; lobster risotto with preserved lemons; duck leg confit or baked puff pastry with artichoke and coconut sorbet. 231 Center St., Healdsburg.

Relish Culinary Adventures, $29: More than a cooking school, Relish hosts area chefs and food producers for frequent dinners, including Chef Christopher Greenwald’s pop-up pig roast March 1-3 of Restaurant Week. Also on the menu, soup, wild arugula salad and citrus sortbet, 14 Matheson St., Healdsburg.

Charlie’s at Windsor Golf Club, $29: A beautiful view of the greens, large outdoor patio and ambitious menu make this a favorite offbeat Windsor eatery. Restaurant week menu ranges from duck sausage and cheese polenta to chicken crepes, pepper-crusted sirloin medallions, rock shrimp fettucini, fried chicken with roasted garlic-bacon mashed potatoes and house made chocolate croissant bread pudding. 1320 19th Hole Dr, Windsor.

Also: Zin Restaurant and Bar, $29, 344 Center St., Healdsburg; Kin, $29, 740 McClelland Dr., Windsor; Dry Creek Kitchen, $39, 317 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg; Spoonbar, $39, 219 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg; Bear Republic Brewing, $19, a beer-lover’s paradise serving up French onion soup, veggie pot pie or stuffed chicken breast and their famous chocolate mousse, 345 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg; Chinois Asian Bistro, $29, 186 Windsor River Rd., Windsor; UME Japanese Bistro, $29, 8700 Old Redwood Highway, Windsor.

Petaluma, Sebastopol and West County
Forchetta Bastoni: Two different options for a restaurant with a dual personality. Daily lunch at “Bastoni” include green papaya salad, Thai curry or sticky rice pudding, $19. Dinner Thursday through Monday, $39 includes Caesar, risotto or tagliatelle, tart limone. 6948 Sebastopol Ave., Sebastopol.

Peter Lowell’s, $29: If you want to taste the best of what Sonoma County has to offer, this is the spot. Winter Minestrone, broccoli salad with Bohemian Creamery Capriago, beef short ribs,wild foraged mushroom and vegetable pot pie; chocolate budino with caramel. 7385 Healdsburg Ave, Sebastopol.

Rocker Oysterfeller’s, $29: Seafood meets Southern Cooking at this Valley Ford stand-out. Trio of bbq oysters, gumbo of the day, flash-fried half Dungeness crab, fried chicken, powdered sugar beignets, sweet potato creme brulee, bourbon vanilla milkshake. 14415 Hwy 1, Valley Ford.

Also: Starlight Wine Bar & Restaurant, $29, 6761 Sebastopol Ave., Sebastopol; Sonoma Wine Shop & La Bodega, $29, 2295 Gravenstein Hwy. St., Sebastopol; French Garden, $39, 8050 Bodega Ave., Sebastopol; GTO’s Seafood House, $29, 234 S. Main St., Sebastopol; Henweigh Cafe, $19, 4550 Gravenstein Hwy N., Sebastopol; Hopmonk Tavern, $29, 230 Petaluma Ave., Sebastopol; Cafe Claudio, $29, 9890 Bodega Hwy, Sebastopol. Cattlemens, $29, 5012 Petaluma Blvd N, Petaluma; Riverside Bistro, $19, Dempsey’s Restaurant and Brewery, $19; 50 E. Washington St., Petaluma; Tolay, $39; 745 Baywood Dr., Petaluma; Tres Hombres Long Bar & Grill, $19, 151 Petaluma Blvd S., Petaluma; Bistro de Copains, $29, 3782 Bohemian Hwy, Occidental; Village Inn Restaurant, $19, Monte Rio, 20822 River Road, Monte Rio; Agriculture Bar & Kitchen at Dawn Ranch Lodge, $29, 16467 Hwy 116, Guerneville; Applewood Inn Restaurant, $39, 13555 Hwy 116, Guerneville; Duck Club at Bodega Bay Lodge, $39, 103 Coast Hwy One, Bodega Bay; Bay View Restaurant at Inn at the Tides, $29, 800 Hwy One, Bodega Bay.

Sonoma, Glen Ellen, Kenwood
Breakaway Cafe, $19: Best burger in Sonoma? Beltane Ranch dry-aged burger with fire-roasted red peppers, caramelized onions, fresh thyme, cambezola on a Basque Boulangerie Bun and hand-cut fries. Served with locally-sourced goat cheese salad, cherry streusel with coconut gelato. Fun, casual, classic and kid-friendly. 19101 Sonoma Hwy, Sonoma.

Kenwood Restaurant and Bar, $39: Chef Rick Vargas snaps things up with a Peruvian menu during restaurant week featuring local Bouillabaisse, tuna sashimi, beef carpaccio, seafood linguini, veal piccata, grilled beef with Cognac cream pepper sauce and pound cake with fresh berries. 9900 Highway 12, Kendwood.

Fig Cafe and Wine Bar, $19: The cozy Glen Ellen fig cafe is a sister to the girl and the fig restaurant in nearby Sonoma — a perennial favorite for locals and tourists. You pretty much can’t go wrong with anything on exec chef Sondra Bernstein’s menu. This week she features a Caesar salad, fig and verjus braised pork shoulder with polenta and chocolate pot de creme. 13690 Arnold Drive, Glen Ellen.

Also: Sonoma Meritage, $29, 165 W. Napa St., Sonoma; Mamma Tanino’s, $29, 500 W. Napa St., Sonoma; Girl and the Fig, $29, 110 West Spain St., Sonoma; Della Santina: $29, 133 E. Napa St., Sonoma; Estate, $29, 400 W. Spain St, Sonoma; Carneros Bistro and Wine Bar, $39, 1325 Broadway, Sonoma; Cafe 522, $29, 522 Broadway, Sonoma; Big 3 at the Fairmont Sonoma Mission Inn, $19, 96 Boyes Blvd., Boyes Hot Springs; Epicurean Connection, $19 122 W. Napa St., Sonoma; Hopmonk Tavern, $29, 691 Broadway, Sonoma; Cafe La Haye, $39, 140 E. Napa, Sonoma; Saddles Steakhouse at MacArthur Place, $29, 29 E. Macarthur St., Sonoma; Cafe Citti, $19, 9049 Sonoma Hwy, Kenwood; Vineyards Inn, $29, 8445 Sonoma Hwy, Kenwood.; Olive and Vine, $29, 14301 Arnold Dr., Glen Ellen; Glen Ellen Inn Oyster Grill and Martini Bar (a favorite romantic hideaway), $29, 13670 Arnold Dr., Glen Ellen.

North County
Rustic at Coppola Winery, $39: Incredible views, great food that Mr. Coppola himself has approved. Caesar salad, Chicken Mattone, NY STrip, Panna Cotta or Chocolate Mousse al Francis Francis. 300 Via Archimedes Way, Geyserville. Also: Catelli’s, $39, 21047 Geyserville Ave., Geyserville; Piacere, $29, 504 N. Cloverdale Blvd., Cloverdale.

Glen Ellen Star in previews

February 2012

By biteclub

Ari Weiswasser, an alum of French Laundry, Daniel and Picholine, is finalizing the menu for his forthcoming Glen Ellen restaurant, set to open this spring.

With wife Erinn (nee Benziger), the couple has staged a number of preview dinners for media Chez Papa (the Glen Ellen home of GM, grower and biodynamic pioneer Mike Benziger). The consensus from rarely-impressed food writers so far: There’s little doubt that this star is on the rise….

The meal: Wine-braised short ribs with mustard flowers, ricotta gnocchi with orange blossom honey and pine nuts, fennel with fennel pollen and aleppo chili and grilled escarole salad showcase Weiswasser’s focus on rustic, wood-fired comfort foods when the 32-seat eatery opens.

Expect to find not only Benziger wines, but produce and animals raised in the nearby vineyards (Mike was picking mustard flowers that afternoon out back) and handmade ice creams (like vanilla maple bourbon) as menu highlights…as well as some secret discoveries (like the imported Greek feta he bargains for at a local deli).

Breath bated.

Healdsburger | Healdsburg

February 2012

By biteclub

Being asked how you want your hamburger cooked says everything about the hamburger you’re about to eat. Because any restaurant that can’t serve burgers still pink in the middle* might need to reconsider why they’re serving burgers at all.

And though fresh, cooked-to-order burgers may seem a lofty expectation for a rehabbed A&W drive-in, the old-is-new-again Healdsburger (48 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg) may have finally risen above its frozen-patty past.

“How would you like that burger cooked?” is the first tip-off that the burgery is headed in the right direction.

Purchased by sports exec David Alioto in late 2011 there’s new promise in the whiffs of smoky, grilled beef that waft through the parking lot. Cheery outdoor picnic tables, freshly painted walls and some serious Cloroxing since my last visit are the next tip-off that someone cares. Channeling the retro-nostalgic, Wine Country vibe of Gott’s Roadside (aka Taylor’s Automatic Refresher) you’ll immediately recognize the aluminum serving trays and lack of service ware that’s become at Gott’s hallmark, along with an attentive, uniformed crew of under 25-ish kids snapping to attention when orders come in.

The produce is spanking fresh (not sad iceberg or pale tomatoes), real ice cream shakes whir in the blender and a manual potato cutter (similar to the ones at In-N-Out) thumps into action every few minutes.

But what’s bringing back the crowds: Off-square pricing for on-square deliciousness. As in $5.75 for a juicy, toasted sesame seed bun, Guy-would-flip-his-wig this is so divey-good, kind of burger.

That’s not to say you can’t get a $12 Wine Country creation if you’re feeling fancy. Cheese and other toppings are a la carte, so expect to pay more if you’re gussying things up. Daily Specials get creative (The Hangover has bacon, cheddar and a fried egg, along with the usual fixins), and change up frequently, but are usually about $10 with fries and a drink.

For cardiac tight-rope walkers, the 14-ounce double patty ‘Mondo’ ($7.75) offers twice the patty fun. Kids get a nod with the 3-ounce mini, hot dogs, corn dogs, and chicken strips. Fries (skin on, of course) are included with most specials. Milk shakes are generous and creamy, but grown-ups may prefer the spike of a Chocolate Stout Float.

Healdsburger is finally the little neighborhood drive-in with burgers worthy of the discriminating palates of its hometown. And a burger just the way you ordered it.

Healdsburger: 48 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, (707) 473-9604.

*Your willingness to eat meat the way it should be cooked may vary. They’ll incinerate your burger (ie: medium/well) if that’s what you really want.

Joey’s Original Pizza | Santa Rosa

February 2012

By biteclub

The best thing about Joey’s Pizza isn’t the pizza. It’s everything else that comes out of the ovens

Joey’s Pizza was NoshMob #1— a democratic eating society. Wanna join?

Here’s what the Mobsters had to say…

– Amy D:“The server gave my son who’s twelve a little extra attention…he was smiling. The kids loved the Cheese pizza. The Combo… It reminded me of a New York style pizza. Thin crust and greasy. Enough that my husband would comment on the grease and he’s not usually picky on this. Toppings were good, the usual put on the combo: sausage pepperoni salami and mushrooms.”- Mike “Mr. Meat” S.: I had the Italian Sub, good, not great. Italian Delight in Novato still holds the title of best sub.

– John L.: “First let me say that with such strong personalities at a table, the food would have too be out of this world. Unfortunately it wasn’t. But for the price point it seemed fair. I tried a slice of the heart attack . Not bad really. Reminded me of pizza you would eat at the beach as a kid . The Italian sub & roast beef and garlic were both ok. Again for the price not bad. Over all I would say I won’t be running back for more . But iv payed more for less before.”

– Anne-Marie: “I had- The Big Tone – by the slice. chicken bacon artichoke mushroom pesto. Was a really tasty huge slice of pizza. $4 Couldn’t finish it!- The Antipasti Salad – small $5.25 A great salad w/mozzarella pepperochini’s salame (pepperoni too, but asked them to leave it off – not a big fan).

– Ty: “Not so good in my book. Caesar salad was ack. Pizza was meh … Though those pretzels were good. And the iced tea was good. I might go back to try a whole pizza and see what that’s like.”

– The Pregnant Lady: “Cheesy garlic breadsticks: These were a-m-a-z-i-n-g!” “A-dog Pizza: definitely one I’d order again.” “Meatball Sandwich: A fantastic deal for only $5.50 for a small- a nice-sized lunch for most people (who aren’t 38 weeks pregnant or sharing with a hungry lunch partner.) The melted provolone managed to get into every nook and cranny without taking over. Warm cookie sundae: This thing is a monster! It was HUGE! A giant, warm (kind of doughy) cookie covered in a whole lot of ice cream, a whole lot of chocolate sauce, a whole lot of whipped cream and some chocolate chips that were rolling down the side of this mountain as it was delivered to the table. We thought we didn’t have room to do much damage. We were wrong.”

Recently opened in the revolving restaurant space above Gary’s at the Belvedere, there’s been little buzz other than the ugly vinyl signage strung outside. In fact, I’ve kind of avoided the spot. The specter of restaurants recently past (Blue Label and Blue Label Burgers) still knocking about felt a little chilling.

But a well-tested BiteClubber raved about Joey’s. Repeatedly. Re-peat-ed-ly. She’s pregnant, so what could I say?

Inside, not much has changed. Most of the Goodwill furniture is still there, as are the creaky, squeaky floors and hostess-free entrance (you have to kind of wind your way to the bar to find someone). But there’s also a new energy and a warm, yeasty smell that greets you at the door — rather than the cigarette smoke that used to permeate the walls. It’s immediately more comfortable somehow.

Hot, homemade pretzels — not quite soft, but not quite hard, and bathed in garlic salt — arrive at the table within a couple minutes. The place is almost always understaffed, but friendly and affable, and surprisingly prompt (though not fast).

Don’t be intimidated by the menu, which stretches for several pages, featuring pizzas that range from ho-hum (pepperoni, cheese) to hmm, okay (Joey’s Garlic supreme with garlic sauce, pepperoni, sausage, tomatoes and green onions) to wow (see the board at the bar for personal creations that mix meats, pineapple, and all manner of other toppings).

Overall, the pizza is good. It’s cheapish (prices top out at $17.99, but smalls are around $14 and plenty big for several) and you can get any sort of mix/match pie you’d like. I also love that you can get massive slices for $3.50. Lunchtime score.

But the big winner? The sandwiches. Fresh, flat rolls that are piping hot and filled with meat, cheese and veggies. The Cheesy Garlic Roast Beef (garlic, Ranch, cheese, roast beef) has made appearances in my food daydreams for weeks. At $5.50 it’s a steal, because you’ll likely take home half. Monster Meatball, Y&T Chicken and Brie are also winners.

Salads are pretty meh, but cheesy garlic sticks, fries and mozzarella sticks that actually have melted cheese in the middle make it a very kid-friendly spot.

Leave room for dessert. A warm chocolate chip cookie sundae slathered with whipped cream and vanilla ice cream ($5.95) is worth a trip alone. Warm. Chocolate Chip. Sundae. On several trips, they were out of the “Mama Joey’s ‘Labor Inducing’ Cheesecakes”, but hope springs eternal. Especially for my pregnant pal.

Joey’s Original Pizza isn’t fancy or gourmet. But it’s the kind of neighborhood spot that’s satisfying, and feels like a value for a quick lunch or a family dinner.

Joey’s Original Pizza, 727 Mendocino Ave, Santa rosa, 583-7688. Also 2700 Yulupa Ave., Santa Rosa, 542-279. Open daily for lunch and dinner.

Michael Traverso lands at Williams-Selyem

February 2012

By biteclub

Former Traverso’s co-owner Michael Traverso has joined winery Williams Selyem as hospitality staff manager.

It’s a natch fit for the former Harvest Fair board president and ardent wine enthusiast whose 90-year-old family grocery shuttered last fall. The winery’s rapid growth and stunning Estate Winery Center (which opened in 2010 with a year-long waiting list) has cemented its cult-status in the pinot world and only increased demand for tours and tastings.

Traverso is tasked with “delivering a once-in-a-lifetime experience for all visitors to the new Estate Winery. He will manage the hospitality staff that conducts tours of the winery and Estate vineyards for the by-appointment-only Tasting Salon at Williams Selyem,” according to Selyem reps.

“We are very happy to announce that our old friend and Sonoma County icon Michael Traverso has joined the team at Williams Selyem,” said the winery.

Upcoming Artisan Cheesemakers of the North Bay

February 2012

By biteclub

There’s a whiff of springtime in the air. Or is it cheese?

As February turns to March and pasture babies begin weaning off mom and onto Northbay grasses, local cheese makers swing into full gear, making their curds and whey. This year, however, expect a bumper crop of goat, sheep, cow and even buffalo milk cheeses as a new (or at least semi-new) group of artisan producers bring their ripe and ready wares to market.

For many, their big debut comes over the next several months when local cheese maker Sheana Davis hosts a who’s who of the cheese world the Sonoma Valley Cheese Conference (Feb. 25-27) and the California Artisan Cheese Festival (March 23-25) celebrates local cheeses with always-sold-out tours of local creameries, cheese-maker dinners and classes.

Here’s a sneak peek at the most buzz-worthy of this year’s producers…

A local cheese primer:
We’d be remiss in not mentioning some of the other great cheese producers who’ve put Marin and Sonoma County on the artisan cheese map.
– Achadinha Cheese Compnay: Longtime goat cheese producer, Petaluma
– Andante Cheese: Soyoung Scanlan is a biochemist and musician who’s painstakingly made cheeses grace top restaurant tables, Petaluma.
– Bellwether Farms: From cheese to yogurt, the Callahan’s are the first-family of California’s artisan cheese making movement.
– Bodega Artisan Cheese: Producing since great local boat cheeses since 1984.
– Clover Stornetta: The local brand we all know and love.
– Cowgirl Creamery: Peggy Smith and Sue Conley are cheese royalty, and their handcrafted cheeses are legendary.
– Laura Chenel’s Chevre: The company that brought goat cheese to the American table
– Marin French Cheese: Old continuously operating cheese factory in America
– Matos Cheese Factory: Inspired Portuguese-style cheeses
– Point Reyes Farmstead: If you’ve had a salad in the Bay area, chances are it had their Original Blue on it.
– Redwood Hill Farm and Creamery: Cheese, yogurt, kefir and a host of other other great goat products
– Spring Hill Cheese Co. : Best butter ever, great local cheeses
– Vella Cheese Company: Sonoma’s own, Ig Vella inspired much of the West Coast’s great cheese making.
– And in Humboldt County: Cypress Grove Chevre: Humboldt Fog, Midnight Moon. And life’s complete.

Weirauch Farm and Creamery: While cultivating their small herd of wooly East Friesian sheep to make European-style sheep’s milk cheese, Joel and Carleen Weirauch have honed their skills making swoon-worthy cow’s milk cheeses including Peau de Peche, a raw washed-rind cheese, Doubloon (a soft, spreadable crottin), Aged Tomme and Carabiner, an aged raw tome. Joel’s aged sheep’s milk cheese should hit the market this summer. Available at the Sebastopol Farm Market, weirauchfarm.com.

North Bay Curds and Whey: Alissa Shethar has been making locally-sourced raw cow’s and sheep’s milk cheeses under her own label for just about a year. Using a cooperative creamery with Ramini Mozzarella and Bleating Heart, Shethar has a strong East Bay following (where she sells at local farm markets). Watch for fresh farm cheeses (Frisch, Picnic) as well as aged Baamonde, washed-rind Mariazell and Pavia, a mixed milk Romano-style cheese. northbaycheese.net.

Barinaga Ranch: Marcia Barinaga’s Basque shepherding ancestors inspired her to leave her former life as a scientist and make farmstead sheep’s milk cheese instead. Recently featured in the cheese-lover’s magazine, Culture, her raw-milk Baserri is an aged Spanish-style cheese that deserved it’s lush centerfold spread in the winter issue. Txiki is a smaller-sized version of Baserri, which ages more quickly and has a slightly different center-to-rind quality. barningaranch.com

Bleating Heart: The current darling of the local cheese scene, owners and Sean Doughty and Dave Dalton make both cow and sheep’s milk cheeses. Because sheep’s lactation cycles are seasonal, their Fat Bottom Girl and Sheperdista sheep’s milk cheeses are available only about six months a year — beginning in the spring. To keep year-round cheese production, they also produce Sonoma Toma, a jersey cow milk cheese. Hungry to try it? The first batch of 2012 Fat Bottom Girl went into production on Feb. 5 and should be in stores soon, and they’re planning a blue version of Fat Bottom for this year. bleatingheart.com.

Two Rock Valley Goat Cheese: Though dairy family Don and Bonnie DeBernardi manage a large herd of Jersey cows, their cheese making got its start after the couple inherited several goats and didn’t know what to do with the milk. Inspired by his Swiss-Italian family roots, Don makes both aged and fresh goat’s milk cheeses, 762-6182.

Valley Ford Cheese Company: Estero Gold, an Italian farmstead cow’s milk cheese, is an award-winner inspired by Asiago. It’s a light, nutty aged cheese made by fourth and fifth generation dairy farmers. valleyfordcheeseco.com.

Bohemian Creamery: Lisa Gottreich and Miriam Block use cow, goat and sheeps’ milk in their lineup of some of the most sought-after cheeses in Sonoma County. Only available seasonally, Bo Poisse is a sheep’s milk Epoisse style cheese that’s as stinky as it is delicious. Cowabunga is a soft, spreadable cow’s milk cheese with goat milk caramel and the tangy Caproncino, a semi-hard goat pressed into small wheels. bohemiancreamery.com.

Upcoming Cheeses
Ramini Mozzarella: One of the most anticipated cheese debuts is Craig Ramini’s water buffalo mozzarella, set to hit shelves this year. Yes, water buffalo. The former software exec has spent the last several years growing a small herd of water buffalo in Tomales as well as a creamery. Highly prized in Europe, water buffalo mozzarella has a rich, creamy tang that sets it above it’s cow’s milk sibling. Expect to see it on the shelves this year. raminimozzarella.com.

Toluma Farms: This Tomales goat ranch has long been a milk supplier for Redwood Hill Farm in Sebastopol. Owners David Jablons and Tamara Hicks are currently building their own creamery and cheesemaking facility, Tomales Farmstead Creamery, with planned goat cheese production starting this year. tolumafarms.com.

Where to buy: Small, artisan cheeses can be hard to come by, though less so in the spring and summer months when production is at its highest. If you’re jonesing to taste these, your best bets are at the Sonoma Winter Artisan Cheese Fair (Feb. 27, 1-4p.m., MacArthur Place, $40, theepicureanconnection.com) or Sunday Marketplace at the Artisan Cheese Festival (March 25, noon-4p.m., Sheraton Sonoma County-Petaluma, $45, artisancheesefestival.com). You can also find some local artisan cheeses at Oliver’s, The Epicurean Connection (122 West Napa St., Sonoma), The Cheese Shop in Healdsburg (423 Center St., Healdsburg) and local farm markets.