Lost in Paradise

Jessie Dirks and Charlotte Warren waking up under a bundle of blankets and sleeping bags on a cold Sunday morning in the mid-30s at a West End neighborhood park of Santa Rosa. December 1, 2013. (Photo: Erik Castro/for The Press Democrat)

The rain fell hard that day. The tent he’d pitched in Howarth Park had leaked and Gerri Jackson’s bed of piled blankets was wet. His Santa Rosa Junior College math textbook was damp.

And he’d just gotten word from a campmate that someone was going to kick them out in 10 days.

“Where’m I gonna go, go, go, bro — I don’t know, I never know,” he said.

The 22-year-old’s singsong voice was just another sound in the night on a muddy hillside tangled with brush and trees, where Gerri was living with the skunks and deer.

It was better than the pavement outside Chop’s Teen Center, where he’d been sleeping days before.

“Concrete sucks the life out of you,” said Gerri, a Chicago native homeless on the streets of Santa Rosa since early 2011.

Adrift and often unknown amid the plenty of Sonoma County, homeless young people reel from abandonment or rejection, flee abuse or broken homes, exit the foster care system unmoored at 18.

They wander, their conditions anonymous, through shopping malls, parks and city centers, ride buses, scrounge free food, cigarettes and, often, drugs. They search for the next safe place to sleep.

Gerri is one of more than a thousand young people under age 24 who are the fastest growing segment of the county’s estimated 4,280 homeless residents. This year’s count revealed 277 teens between the ages 12 and 17 who have nowhere to live — a 200 percent increase in four years.

“They are terrifying statistics,” said Georgia Berland, executive officer of the Sonoma County Task Force on the Homeless.

“What does it mean to their stability, to their ability to engage in society, to be productive?” she said. “If kids are going to be growing up feeling that their community doesn’t even care enough for them to have a roof over their head, that means they’re not going to feel connected to their community. That doesn’t bode well for us.”

More housing, education, job training and employment options, and counseling services are crucial to reversing the situation, Berland said.

“We have to find some way to reconnect with these kids and find a way to help them feel valuable and cared for,” she said. “That is the most important thing we can do.”

TANGLED LIVES

The young people who come to live on Sonoma’s streets have had tangled lives and tell their stories mostly in tangents.

Gerri Jackson, 22, going back to bed next to his school books after scraping the bottom of a Skippy peanut butter and chocolate jar for his breakfast on a cold early Sunday morning in his tent in a wooded area of a Santa Rosa park. November 24, 2013. (Photo: Erik Castro/for The Press Democrat)
Gerri Jackson, 22, going back to bed next to his school books after scraping the bottom of a Skippy peanut butter and chocolate jar for his breakfast on a cold early Sunday morning in his tent in a wooded area of a Santa Rosa park. November 24, 2013. (Photo: Erik Castro/for The Press Democrat)

Gerri was in Chicago’s foster care system from age 5 or 6 until 18. He joined the Paragon Marketing Group, which recruits young people as salespeople, as a way to start a new life, and sold subscriptions across the country. He can still recite the sales pitch.

“I learned so much in that job,” he said.

But after he arrived in Santa Rosa, the Paragon van left town without him, taking with it his identification. He spent 100 days in jail for taking someone’s car to sleep in. Although he’s avoided other serious legal trouble, it’s been the streets for him ever since.

“You learn so much out here. All my senses are so good,” he said.

But just an hour later, in Juilliard Park, Gerri, who can at times seem dreamy, said, “The longer you’re in this, the harder it gets.”

Then he smoked a joint and played Hacky Sack with some friends.

NO SHELTER

Life on the streets possesses its own vague rhythms and dead ends.

At the end of a day spent wandering, homeless young people have literally nowhere to go. There are just six emergency shelter beds in the county for homeless teens and seven temporary beds for former foster care youth.

Adult shelters refuse those under age 18 and younger people on the streets tend to avoid shelters in general, preferring to hang out together and find other places to stay.

“Imagine being 18 and homeless and walking into a shelter full of 40- and 50- year olds. It would be frightening,” said Cat Cvengros, development director for Social Advocates for Youth, or SAY.

“They stick together in packs,” Cvengros said. “It’s largely for safety, they just feel, ‘If I’m with someone I know, someone my own age, I know I’m going to be safer.’”

She is soliciting support from business leaders and the broader community for a controversial transitional housing facility for homeless youth, proposed at the former Warrack Hospital in Santa Rosa. It would serve up to 63 former foster and homeless youth aged 18 to 24, but it faces stiff opposition from residents who fear the young people would bring trouble to their neighborhood.

KICKED OUT

Jessie Dirks and Charlotte Warren waking up from under a bundle of blankets and sleeping bags on a cold early Monday morning in a West End neighborhood park of Santa Rosa. November 25, 2013. (Photo: Erik Castro/for The Press Democrat)
Jessie Dirks and Charlotte Warren waking up from under a bundle of blankets and sleeping bags on a cold early Monday morning in a West End neighborhood park of Santa Rosa. November 25, 2013. (Photo: Erik Castro/for The Press Democrat)

She has bipolar disorder and was kicked out of her home in Reno, Nev., when she was 16, said Charlotte Warren, a Santa Rosa native who is now 21. She has been homeless for six years.

Six months ago, when she quit shooting and snorting meth, Charlotte bought a skateboard to get around and is getting pretty good at it. In the late summer, she got a job in Staples’ ink and toner department and skated every day to work from the Sam Jones Hall shelter about 3 miles away in southwest Santa Rosa.

But when the back-to-school season ended, she was laid off. She suggests, too, that she was finding it difficult to perform well at work because she was worrying about her boyfriend, Jesse Dirks, who had been kicked out of the shelter for having marijuana.

“I was distracted a lot,” Charlotte said. “He wouldn’t text me and I’d worry if he was OK.”

TOUGH LOVE

Jessie Dirks and Charlotte Warren kissing after a night under a bundle of blankets and sleeping bags on a cold Sunday morning in the mid-30s at a West End neighborhood park of Santa Rosa. December 1, 2013. (Photo: Erik Castro/for The Press Democrat)
Jessie Dirks and Charlotte Warren. (Photo: Erik Castro/for The Press Democrat)

His mother was addicted to drugs, Jessie said, and he hasn’t seen her in years. He was adopted at a young age but his parents divorced, leaving him alone. He left home because his stepfather “told me, once I was 18, if I needed a place to stay or money, the answer was ‘No.’”

“He’s kind of like, tough love, learn as you go,” said Jesse, an avid skateboarder who inspired Charlotte to buy her own longboard.

So he moved out, had a baby with a woman, lost his job with Conservation Corps North Bay (for working too slowly, he said, because of a bad back), got kicked out by his girlfriend and has been homeless a year and a half.

He got in trouble over marijuana and is facing a $900 fine for possession that keeps going up because he can’t pay it.

“I can’t do anything about it, it’s just going to keep stacking and stacking and I’m going to be in debt forever,” Jesse said.

THE RUNAWAY

Jeramy Lowther Jr., 19, on his way to the Coffee House Teen Shelter in the Ridgeway neighborhood of Santa Rosa where he plans on getting his first meal of the day. Santa Rosa. November 20, 2013. (Erik Castro/for The Press Democrat)
Jeramy Lowther Jr., 19, on his way to the Coffee House Teen Shelter in the Ridgeway neighborhood of Santa Rosa where he plans on getting his first meal of the day. (Erik Castro/for The Press Democrat)

Jeramy Lowther Jr., 19, was entering high school when his mother sent him from Toledo, Ohio, to Petaluma to live with his father — but he spent his first night in a homeless shelter.

Soon they found a trailer in Penngrove. But his father started drinking and they lost it. Jeramy ran away and has been alone ever since.

He’s done poorly, sleeping for months on the streets, on friends’ couches, or at Coffee House, SAY’s teen shelter on Santa Rosa’s Ripley Street.

He’s done well, too, graduating from Sonoma’s Hanna Boys Center, where he was voted most helpful student in 2012, moving into SAY’s transitional housing facility, Tamayo House, on Yulupa Avenue in Santa Rosa, and attending Santa Rosa Junior College. He wants to be an engineer.

But Jeramy decided he wanted to reconnect with his mother. His mentors at SAY and Hanna Boys Center were concerned: Jeramy’s life was finally stable; his mother’s life was muddied by drugs. He missed her, though, and in June he left for Toledo.

There he lived in several gang-ridden neighborhoods, held two jobs and quit one, was jumped, and started drinking heavily.

“My problem is hard liquor,” he said. “If I get a bottle, I drink the whole thing.” A breakdown put him in a psychiatric wing. He has been diagnosed with major depression and compressive anxiety disorder. The hospital sent him back to Santa Rosa on a Greyhound in November.

“I’ve been through a lot of shit,” he said, looking exhausted as he sat in Coffee House, where he can’t stay anymore because it is only for youth up to age 18.

Lisa Fatu, the co-program manager of Coffee House, gave him $5. Later he bought a Black Mountain cigar for 79 cents.

“I’ve got to make this last for three or four days,” he said of the cash he had left.

THE BREAKUP

One night the wind blew so hard that power went out around Sonoma County, and Jesse and Charlotte had a fight in the west Santa Rosa park where they were living, and broke up.

Charlotte sobbed in the windstorm. Jesse left to sulk. But later they crawled into a sleeping bag together beneath a play structure. A walkway made of rubber planks for playing children to run across sheltered them.

They woke up about 7 a.m. and argued again. There still was a wind; the sunlight was not warm. Charlotte’s eyes were raw.

“Just everything. Life,” Charlotte said about the subject of their argument. Jesse said it started because he sat on a different Juilliard Park bench than she did the previous day.

The couple had been together for six months, since Charlotte got clean. The day before the breakup, she had caressed Jesse with green-painted fingernails, kissed him, and talked about their relationship.

Jessie Dirks and Charlotte Warren waking up from under a bundle of blankets and sleeping bags on a cold early Monday morning in a West End neighborhood park of Santa Rosa. November 25, 2013. (Photo: Erik Castro/for The Press Democrat)
Jessie Dirks and Charlotte Warren. (Photo: Erik Castro/for The Press Democrat)

“I love you,” she had said to him. “Now that we’re together it makes things so much easier. I don’t feel so alone; I’m not searching for anything.”

But in a private moment, Jesse said things were tougher than that.

Charlotte got “used to being irritated” when she was using meth, he said. “Now she’s irritated a lot. It’s hard, we fight a lot.”

But then he added: “I think it’s just our situation. Once we get on our feet it’ll get a lot easier, when we’re not together every minute.”

He was wearing a pair of Charlotte’s shoes, which were two sizes too small for him, because his had holes in them and had gotten soaked in the rains.

“It gets tiring,” he said. “You get to where you’re done. I’m tired of not having anything.”

THE TO-DO-LIST

When Jeramy got back to Sonoma County he spent the night at his grandfather’s place in Petaluma. Then, because overight guests were not allowed, he moved into a friend’s garage in South Park, a frayed neighborhood near the Sonoma County Fairgrounds. A throw rug covered part of the concrete floor and the garage was crowded with stuff — boxes, a mop, a refrigerator full of beer.

One night his friend’s parents had a screaming match and Jeramy, against his better judgment, spent the rest of his money on a pack of Camel Wides and also drank two beers.

Jeramy Lowther Jr., 19, at the Coffee House Teen Shelter in the Ridgeway neighborhood of Santa Rosa having hotdogs and chili beans as his first meal of the day. November 20, 2013. (Erik Castro / For The Press Democrat)
Jeramy Lowther Jr., 19, at the Coffee House Teen Shelter in the Ridgeway neighborhood of Santa Rosa having hotdogs and chili beans as his first meal of the day. November 20, 2013. (Erik Castro / For The Press Democrat)

For breakfast, he walked to Coffee House. For lunch he went to Voices, a Mendocino Avenue nonprofit founded by foster youth for others who are leaving the foster care system.

He had a lot to do: Find a job. Find a place to live. Find a way to pay for SRJC. Remember to take his medications, which he carries in his backpack.

“I’ve had a lot of things happen, to where it’s hard to keep myself distracted,” he said of his mental illnesses. “The littlest thing can happen and it’s like a flashback. Sometimes, I feel like I’m 19 going on 40.”

Ahead of him: stops at Tamayo House and Hanna Boys Center. He needed help from both.

At Tamayo House, which has 24 beds, he applied for a room. “It could take a week, it could take six months,” he said.

He accepted a ride from a reporter to the Hanna Boys Center and walked around happily.

“Man, it’s good to be back,” he said.

On the administration building’s wall is a large photograph of Jeramy when he graduated. He is wearing a jacket and tie and his glasses (which right then he did not have, having forgotten them earlier at Tamayo House).

He sat with a Hanna caseworker to ask if he could get another Hanna scholarship for SRJC.

“We’re going to try and support you with whatever you need — but we can’t just throw money at you, because we’ve helped you in the past,” said Brad LaBass, who in June had tried to talk Jeramy out of going to Toledo.

“And a lot of that didn’t work,” Jeramy said.

“A lot of that didn’t work out,” said LaBass. After a moment, he added, “We get the pull of wanting to make it work with your family.”

Jeramy said: “Now I have my head on right; now it’s a completely different story.”

‘LITERALLY NOTHING TO DO’

One Thursday morning, Gerri walked to Summerfield Road and caught the No. 8 bus for the downtown Transit Mall. From there he took the No. 3 to Railroad Square where he hooked up with the Comfort of Hope Ministries, which was setting up at the end of Sixth Street.

Gerri Jackson, 22, after just waking up on an cold early Sunday morning in his tent in a wooded area of a Santa Rosa park. November 24, 2013. (Photo: Erik Castro/for The Press Democrat)
Gerri Jackson. (Photo: Erik Castro/for The Press Democrat)

He helped unload boxes and set up a table on which was placed a serving dish of hot enchiladas. About 30 homeless people prayed together then partook, milling about the sidewalk and talking.

Later, as Gerri helped pack up, Pat Jones, a longtime activist for homeless people, watched him.

“He’s one of those hard nuts to crack; he’s just so young,” Jones said. She added, “He’s a good kid, he tries, but sometimes we’re our own worst enemies.”

Gerri walked to Juilliard Park, where he found good fortune in the form of a grocery bag containing peanut butter, bread and two oranges.

He shared it with two friends he ran into.

“Everybody that is homeless goes through boredom, because there is literally nothing to do, there is no extracurriculars,” he said.

The afternoon rolled around and Gerri went to class, Counseling 80, which prepares students to transfer to four-year colleges. Each student has prepared a presentation on the school they want to attend. Gerri’s is the University of Chicago.

“I want to make something of my life,” he said.

He sat alone in the second row from the back and settled in. When the instructor called on him, he volunteered a date that he can give his oral report.

Five days later, paperwork arrived that he’d tried for a year to get and that he needed to be eligible for a transitional housing program. But Gerri suddenly had doubts about moving inside.

“I’m not 100 percent on that,” he said. “I might not be feeling right about it. It’s just a gut feeling I have. I’m comfortable with my street smarts.”

MOVING ON

Jeramy Lowther Jr., 19, the morning after sleeping in a friend's garage for the night in the South Park neighborhood of Santa Rosa. November 20, 2013. (Erik Castro/for The Press Democrat)
Jeramy Lowther Jr. (Erik Castro/for The Press Democrat)

Four days after getting off the Greyhound bus in Santa Rosa, Jeramy found a holiday job at a store in Santa Rosa Plaza. The manager remembered him from the year before.

“As soon as I showed my face, they wanted to hire me,” he said.

It was a seasonal job but that was OK. By the time it ended, he said, he’d be back at his SRJC studies. And it coincided with another bit of good news. His grandfather was going to talk to the property manager and see whether Jeramy could stay there until he found his own place.

“I’ve got my head on straight now,” he said.

But despite the happy developments, Jeramy looked tense. His anxiety remained, he said.

“That’s one thing I probably won’t be able to change; it just kind of sticks to me,” he said.

LOST

The morning after they broke up, Charlotte and Jesse walked to Railroad Square and, after meandering around for a bit, decided to go to the Redwood Gospel Mission.

“It’s kind of nice to have people around,” Jesse said. “We just wander around sort of aimlessly hoping to find someone to talk to.”

At the mission, they were among about 15 homeless people waiting for a meal. Charlotte found six wrapped snack bars to share with Jesse. She got ahold of some chocolate lollipops, too, and shared them with everyone else.

She looked at ease.

The same way, oddly, that she looked on another day, when she was discussing homelessness and said: “You get to where, I don’t want to say imprisoned, yeah, I’m going to say imprisoned. I just feel like I don’t know who I am anymore.”

Such feelings frequently seem to color the days of the young and homeless.

But that is not all there is. And it can change in an instant.

One day after the rain, Charlotte reached into her back pocket and pulled out a schedule for GED preparation classes at SRJC.

“My plan is to go to school, probably next semester,” she said.

Marked as they are by trauma, loss and life on the streets, many homeless youth are, like Charlotte, also distinguished by that resilient sense of possibility lost to their homeless elders, said SAY’s Cvengros.

“They haven’t gotten hopeless and it’s remarkable,” she said. “What our job is as a community, and as an organization specifically, is to get them those tools they need to get to where they want to go.”

J Vineyards & Winery’s Pinot for Paws

Rischi Paul Sharma of Laguna Nigel says hello to Orent II, a Canine Companion service dog, at the Pinot for Paws event at Jordan Winery on Saturday, November 30, 2013. (photo by John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

J Vineyards & Winery’s splendid visitor center near Healdsburg went to the dogs on a glowing autumnal Saturday, and it was a good thing.

The Pinot for Paws event at Jordan Winery on Saturday, November 30, 2013. (photo by John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
The Pinot for Paws event at Jordan Winery on Saturday, November 30, 2013. (photo by John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

The occasion was Pinot for Paws, the inventive pairing of tastings of J Pinot Noirs and encounters with the life-enhancing work of Canine Companions for Independence, the Santa Rosa-based organization that pioneered the training of service dogs for people with disabilities.

Visitors to J on Nov. 30 witnessed the remarkable and myriad ways that a helpful dog can enable and enrich a person’s life. In addition to introducing its patrons to CCI, J donated to the organization a portion of the day’s tasting fees and Pinot Noir sales.

The special day has J thinking it might introduce a Yappy Hour.

Sonoma Magazine celebrates its relaunch

The Sonoma Magazine launch party at Buena Vista Winery, in Santa Rosa, Calif., on November 7, 2013. (Alvin Jornada / The Press Democrat)

Just-pried Hog Island oysters, freshly hand-rolled cigars, abundant local wines, intriguing conversation, a hosted El Coyote food truck, cakes nearly too beautiful to slice, a venerable winery venue — now this was a Sonoma party.

More accurately, it was the Sonoma magazine relaunch party at Sonoma Valley’s historic, 1857 Buena Vista Winery.

Hosted by principals of Sonoma Media Investments, the Nov. 7 bash premiered the expansion of the visually striking and lyrically written magazine that for years has reflected and interpreted life in Sonoma Valley. The new Sonoma magazine celebrates all of Sonoma County and its Wine Country environs.

The cookies and the collection of sweet, sweet classic sports cars alone made it a night to write home about.

 

 

Playful Night at the Gatsby Gala

Tatiana Argenal, left, Liza Nichayeva and Amanda Muller during the National Alliance on Mental Illness (NAMI) Sonoma County Gatsby Gala at the McDonald Mansion, in Santa Rosa, Calif., on September 21, 2013. (Alvin Jornada / The Press Democrat)

Flappers’ gowns rippled and the chrome on ostentatiously elegant, pre-Depression automobiles shone on the manicured grounds of Santa Rosa’s grandest old estate for the Gatsby Gala.

It was a playful, retro night of amusement and a social triumph for the sponsoring Sonoma County chapter of NAMI, the National Alliance on Mental Illness.

The owners of McDonald Avenue’s exquisite Mableton, or McDonald Mansion, dressed in their 1920s best and greeted the Sept. 21 gala’s 150 guests. Bartenders from Stark’s Steakhouse and Jackson’s Bar and Oven poured modern interpretations of Prohibition-era, perfectly chilled contraband.

After dinner came timeless lemon-chiffon cake and music, which drew guests onto the dance floor and back to a fleetingly gilded age.

 

 

Winery Tasting Rooms

Auteur Wines, 373 First St. West, Sonoma, 707-938-9211, auteurwines.com
In a little cottage off the Sonoma Plaza, Auteur offers intimate seated tastings of five of its exquisite wines, by appointment daily. The brand of winemaker Kenneth Juhasz, who also consults for The Donum Estate, Auteur is all about vineyard-designated Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from Sonoma and Mendocino counties.

Banshee Wines, 325 Center St., Healdsburg, 707-395-0915, bansheewines.com
One of the newer additions to Healdsburg’s downtown wine-tasting scene, Banshee has created a cozy enclave of wine and art, open into the evenings for lounging. Wines are available by the glass and bottle at retail prices; more formal tastings are available, paired with bites from Healdsburg Shed.

Benovia Winery, 3339 Hartman Road, Santa Rosa, 707-526-4441, benoviawinery.com
In the heart of the Russian River Valley, Benovia is open daily by appointment only, but worth the call to visit and taste current-release Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Zinfandel and Grenache made from several estate-managed vineyards.

Bella Vineyards & Wine Caves, 9711 West Dry Creek Road, Healdsburg, 866-572-3552, bellawinery.com
Duck into Bella’s cozy caves to taste, and on the weekends, enjoy small bites from the winery’s stellar chef, Bruce Frieseke. Cave and vineyard tours can be arranged by appointment with one week’s notice.

Buena Vista Winery, 18000 Old Winery Road, Sonoma, 800-926-1266, buenavistawinery.com
Historic Buena Vista has refashioned its wine caves into a darkened, romantic spot for barrel tasting and touring, and a section of the cave can be reserved for private, by-appointment tastes of library wines and barrel samples. Don’t miss the Champagne Cellars (kid-friendly and there is no charge) where the winery’s history can be further explored.

Chateau St. Jean, 8555 Sonoma Highway, Kenwood, 707-833-4134, chateaustjean.com
With plenty of food and gifts to buy from its well-stocked tasting room, the best reason to visit this venerable winery right now is that it’s celebrating 40 years of producing its Bordeaux-style blend, Cinq Cepages; the 2010 vintage has just been released. Every January, the winery hosts a popular Crab and Chardonnay party. Sign up soon.

DeLoach Vineyards, 1791 Olivet Road, Santa Rosa, 707-526-9111, deloachvineyards.com
Producer of predominantly Russian River Valley Pinot Noir and Zinfandel, DeLoach affords visitors the opportunity to learn the philosophies of Biodynamic farming and take part in two unique experiences available daily. The M.F.S. Blending Experience ($100) is a 90-minute lesson in blending, bottling and labeling your own Pinot Noir. The Magic of Wine and Mustard ($40) explores the history of mustard in Burgundy, France, and includes a stroll through the vineyard and garden, the chance to make your own mustard from Dijon seeds, and a pairing of mustard-inspired food with a flight of DeLoach wines.

Dutcher Crossing Winery, 8533 Dry Creek Road, Geyserville, 866-431-2711, dutchercrossingwinery.com
This quiet, comforting winery with a fireplace in its tasting room, overlooks its own magnificent Dry Creek Valley vineyards, and produces a slew of fine wines, from Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon to port and Petite Sirah. You might find winery dog Dutchess lounging near the fire or hanging out in the garden picnic grounds.

Fritz Underground Winery, 24691 Dutcher Creek Road, Cloverdale, 707-894-3389, fritzwinery.com
Step into Fritz’s subterranean winery, complete with warming fireplace, and enjoy its red blends, award-winning Zinfandels, fine estate rosé and late-harvest wines. By reservation, winemaker Brad Longton will even show you how to blend your own Pinot Noir ($175 a person).

Handley Cellars, 3151 Highway 128, Philo, 707-895-3876, handleycellars.com
The stomping ground of Mendocino County wine pioneer Milla Handley, Handley Cellars is the place to taste Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Zinfandel and Alsatian varietals, including Riesling, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris and Gewürztraminer. The tasting room includes Handley’s impressive collection of international folk art. The first weekend of every month takes a page from her collection, offering “Culinary Adventures,” a pairing of Asian, African and New World cuisine with her wines.

Harmonique Wines, 14501 Highway 128, Boonville, 707-895-9300, harmoniquewine.com
Recently opened by owners Bruce and Moira Conzelman to celebrate the release of three aged Pinot Noirs made by winemaker Robert Klindt, the Harmonique tasting room is within the John Hanes Fine Art Gallery, across from the Boonville Hotel. Enjoy the winery’s 2007 Delicacé Pinot Noir from the Ferrington Vineyard, 2007 The Noble One Pinot Noir from the Klindt and Wiley vineyards, or 2007 Elegancé Pinot Noir, a blend from all three vineyards. The winery also offers an unoaked Chardonnay.

Hartford Family Winery, 8075 Martinelli Road, Forestville, 707-887-8030, hartfordwines.com
Tucked away in the woods, Hartford is a consistent high-quality producer of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and old-vine Zinfandel, sourcing grapes from the Green Valley sub-appellation of the Russian River Valley where it is based, and from other cool locales such as Anderson Valley. Seated in-depth tastings, including some with food pairings, can be arranged by appointment.

J Vineyards & Winery, 11447 Old Redwood Highway, Healdsburg, 707-431-5400, jwine.com
A glass of bubbly is always a good thing, and this is a well-appointed spot at which to have it, as well as taste J’s Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays, and the very rare J Pear Liqueur. The J Bubble Room will pair wines with exquisite, locally sourced dishes.

Joseph Phelps Freestone Vineyards, 12747 El Camino Bodega, Freestone, 707-874-1010, josephphelps.com
On the way to the coast, Freestone Vineyards makes what you would expect — cool-climate Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays — and the tasting room will also pour selections from parent winery Joseph Phelps Vineyards, the Napa Valley producer of Cabernet Sauvignon and the famous Insignia proprietary red blend. On the second Sunday of every month, Freestone features local foods paired with the Sonoma Coast and Napa Valley wines.

Ladera Vineyards, 150 White Cottage Road South, Angwin, 707-965-2445, laderavineyards.com
Ladera is on the site of one of Napa Valley’s “ghost” wineries — an 1886 stone building built for gravity-flow winemaking. The Howell Mountain producer offers daily tastings of its current-release wines, as well as two-hour estate tours (11 a.m. and 2 p.m.) that delve deeply into the winery’s history, vineyards and wine caves.

Lambert Bridge, 4085 West Dry Creek Road, Healdsburg, 707-431-9600, lambertbridge.com
Lambert Bridge offers comfort and warmth in the wintertime, with a fieldstone fireplace roaring in the redwood-paneled tasting room. Then there are the dogs, a motley crew usually on hand, and the Barrel Room Wine and Food Pairings, during which Lambert Bridge’s richly elegant Cabernet Sauvignons and Zinfandels are poured with seasonal bites to match. Do a Signature Tasting on the weekend and you’ll be seated in the candlelit barrel room for a sampling of five small-lot wines.

Landmark Wine, 101 Adobe Canyon Road, Kenwood, 707-833-0053, landmarkwine.com
In the shadow of Sugarloaf Ridge State Park, Landmark makes Chardonnay (including the famous Overlook bottling) and Pinot Noir, and is increasingly becoming known for its Rhone-inspired reds, including Syrah and Grenache. In addition to its tasting room, the winery offers picnic spots and bocce courts.

Merry Edwards Winery, 2959 Gravenstein Highway North, Sebastopol, 707-823-7466, merryedwards.com
Winemaker Merry Edwards is a pioneer in Russian River Valley Pinot Noir, excelling at coaxing rich berry flavor and voluptuous texture from the grapes. She also produces some of the best Sauvignon Blanc in the state, and has recently added Chardonnay to her lineup. Don’t miss the opportunity to discover her skill and view some of the vineyards surrounding the winery.

Odette Estate, 5998 Silverado Trail, Napa, 707-224-7533, odetteestate.com
Owned by the PlumpJack Winery guys (Gordon Getty, Gavin Newsom and John Conover), Odette is in Napa Valley’s Stags Leap District and on the path to becoming LEED-certified. With 18,000 square feet of caves, some of the first modern versions dug in Napa Valley, Odette makes for an intriguing visit, with great Cabernet Sauvignon-based wines on offer.

Partake by K-J, 241 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, 707-433-6000, partakebykj.com
This is a novel concept in tasting rooms, in that Partake is as much about the food (much of it sourced from the Jackson Estate’s gardens and orchards) as it is the wine itself. Take advantage of this delightful concept and step in for seasonal bites made to match specific flights of wine, from Sauvignon Blanc to dessert wines and lots in between. Reservations are recommended.

Paul Mathew Vineyards, 9060 Graton Road, Graton, 707-865-2505, paulmathewvineyards.com
This tiny operation produces Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, as well as the much rarer Valdiguie, a light-bodied red akin to Napa Gamay and sourced from the Turner Vineyard in Knights Valley. Also look for the winery’s ongoing schedule of Foodies Seminars, events held once a month with a focus on local food and wine.

Porter Creek Vineyards, 8735 Westside Road, Healdsburg, 707-433-6321, portercreekvineyards.com
Here is an old-school tasting room in terms of its simplicity, but there’s nothing simple about Porter Creek’s wines, which are intriguing and complex, made from organically grown grapes from hillside vineyards. In addition to Russian River Valley Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, enjoy Viognier, Carignane, Syrah and Zinfandel.

Ram’s Gate, 28700 Arnold Drive, Sonoma, 707-721-8700, ramsgate
winery.com Ram’s Gate was designed for lingering, with a host of spacious sitting areas, many of which are grouped around a fireplace. Then there’s the food, prepared to order by the on-staff chef for seated, guided tastings. Order a picnic lunch to take into the vineyard or out by the pond. The wines alone are a reason to stay, a collection of single-vineyard Pinot Noir, Syrah, Chardonnay and even a brut bubbly.

Red Car Wine, 8400 Graton Road, Sebastopol, 707-829-8500, redcarwine.com
Open daily, Red Car is a sweet spot to taste Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Syrah, and a particularly good choice in winter. With inspired labels on many of its bottles, look for its The Fight Syrah, made from Gray’s Town Vineyard in the Sonoma Coast appellation, close to the winery; it’s a gorgeous expression of earthy mushroom, blueberry and dark chocolate.

Ridge Vineyards / Lytton Springs, 650 Lytton Springs Road, Healdsburg, 707-433-7721, ridgewine.com
The mighty Ridge is a perfect place to stop in winter, for its structured Zinfandels and Cabernet Sauvignons that are worth seeking out for occasions special and not. The tasting room is open daily, but reserve ahead for a Century Tour and Library Tasting, which might include an older vintage of Monte Bello Cabernet Sauvignon, Ridge’s most famous wine.

Saracina Vineyards, 11684 Highway 101, Hopland, 707-744-1671, saracina.com
John Fetzer and his wife, Patty Rock, have created a lovely destination getaway on the outskirts of Hopland. Practitioners of biodiversity, they have 600 acres that include grapevines, olive groves and ponds, and the cave is a cozy option for tasting the wines in winter. Bottlings include Malbec, Petite Sirah and an Anderson Valley Pinot Noir.

Schramsberg Vineyards, 1400 Schramsberg Road, Calistoga, 800-877-3623, schramsberg.com
Among the first in California to specialize in sparkling wine, Schramsberg occupies hallowed, historic ground, home to the oldest hillside vineyards in Napa Valley and some of the first caves dug for storing and aging wine. Take a tour by appointment, and don’t miss the Mirabelle Brut Rosé and other gorgeous sparklers before moving on to taste the J. Davies Estate Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Noir.

Stonestreet Alexander Mountain Estate, 7111 Highway 128, 707-473-3333, stonestreetwines.com
Located near Alexander Valley’s popular Jimtown Store, Stonestreet excels in mountain-grown Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc, and invites visitors to taste through its single-vineyard bottlings. Carve out extra time to take the two-hour Mountain Excursion and Picnic ($90; 10:30 a.m. Friday, Saturday and Sunday), a revelatory traipse through Stonestreet’s 6,000-acre estate, with lunch and wine.

Thomas George Estates, 8075 Westside Road, Healdsburg, 707-431-8031, thomasgeorgeestates.com
Set in a converted 1920s-era hop kiln, Thomas George specializes in Russian River Valley Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from specific, sought-after sites, and limited amounts of Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Blanc, Zinfandel and Syrah. Expect to see dogs and sheep during your visit.

Tricycle Wine Partners, 23568 Arnold Drive, Sonoma, 707-255-4929, tricyclewineco.com
The newest addition to Cornerstone Gardens, Tricycle makes a range of high-quality wines, from its rich Obsidian Ridge Cabernet Sauvignon from Lake County, to Kazmer & Blaise Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from Carneros, to the Molnar Family single-vineyard wines from Napa Valley.

Valdez Family Winery, 113 Mill St., Healdsburg, 707-433-3710, valdezfamilywinery.com
Ulises Valdez is a highly sought-after, Sonoma County-based vineyard manager with access to some mighty fine grapes, so it’s no wonder he’s now producing his own lineup of stellar wines, with a special focus and place in his heart for Zinfandel. If your own heart beats for Rockpile, don’t pass up the Valdez Botticelli Vineyard Zin, an excellent expression of the rocky appellation high above Lake Sonoma.

VJB Vineyards & Cellars, 60 Shaw Ave., Kenwood, 707-833-2300, vjb cellars.com
In an Italian-inspired, courtyard-centered villa in the heart of Sonoma Valley, VJB serves coffee and pastries in the morning, panini, pasta and pizza during the day, and samples of its Italian-inspired wines. The winery also stocks co-proprietor Maria Belmonte’s line of sauces, pestos and tapenades, and houses a shop for gelato and specialty chocolates.

Dining Out

The prawn and pineapple curry is served at Forchetta/Bastoni. (Conner Jay/The Press Democrat)

Café Europe, 104 Calistoga Road, Santa Rosa, 707-538-5255, clickcafeeurope.com
Austrian chef Robert Buchschachermair knows his German and Austrian dishes well and replicates the classics flawlessly. Here are the potato pancakes with sour cream and apple sauce, the spicy red cabbage, wiener schnitzel, sauerbraten, sausage platters and good German beer on tap. Plus he adds mainstream nightly specials from other cuisines, such as grilled salmon, chicken with pasta, duck a l’orange and wild boar ragout. Buchschachermair’s Austrian apple strudel for dessert is right on the money. Reviewed 1/6/13. $$-$$$

Steamed Mussels at Cafe Claudio in Sebastopol. (Alvin Jornada / The Press Democrat)
Steamed Mussels at Cafe Claudio in Sebastopol. (Alvin Jornada / The Press Democrat)

Café Claudio, 9890 Bodega Highway, Sebastopol, 707-861-9547, cafeclaudio.com
Claudio Capetta has served his well-made Italian specialties in Sonoma County for 17 years, and in his newest venue on Bodega Highway just west of Sebastopol, he continues his string of good restaurants aimed straight at the heart of locals. The building is unassuming; there’s a short but good wine list; the entrees run to the tried and true: chicken cacciatore, chicken Parmigiana, veal scaloppini, scampi fra diavolo. There’s usually a vegetarian risotto and fish of the day. Reviewed 4/7/13. $$-$$$

Dinucci’s Italian Dinners, 14485 Highway 1, Valley Ford, 707-876-3260, dinuccisrestaurant.com
Here’s a place that hasn’t changed much for many years. It serves family-style Italian dinners, with entrees accompanied by all the trimmings: antipasti, minestrone, green salad, bread and side dishes of pasta with meat sauce. There’s a full bar out front and a dining room with a beautiful mural showing a Sonoma County scene before the redwoods were harvested. Closed Tuesdays and Wednesdays. Reviewed 1/27/13. $$

Forchetta/Bastoni, 6948 Sebastopol Ave., Sebastopol, 707-829-9500, forchettabastoni.com
While the Forchetta (fork) side of the menu is Italian, the Bastoni (sticks) side offers Southeast Asian street food, with noodles, chicken and rice with spicy hot sauce, salads, curries and of course, a very good banh mi sandwich. Prices are moderate and there are a lot of choices. The full bar is one of Sebastopol’s top spots for get-togethers and friendly fun. Reviewed 9/22/13. $$

Gyoza at Formosa Bistro in Sebastopol on Wednesday, December 19, 2012. (Jeff Kan Lee/ The Press Democrat)
Gyoza at Formosa Bistro in Sebastopol on Wednesday, December 19, 2012. (Jeff Kan Lee/ The Press Democrat)

Formosa Bistro, 799 Gravenstein Highway South, Sebastopol, 707-823-6688, sebastopolformosabistro.com
Excellent preparations of classic Japanese and Chinese dishes, with some Southeast Asian recipes, too. There are pages of nigiri sushi and fancy maki sushi rolls, along with many entrees and combination plates. The coconut curry begs to be served over rice, and the gyoza dumpling-like pot stickers stuffed with spiced pork are worth a stop. A good list of sakes completes the picture. Reviewed 12/30/12. $-$$

Haku Sushi, 518 Seventh St., Santa Rosa, 707-541-6359, facebook.com
You get a big helping of humor from the way the maki rolls are named, but there’s nothing frivolous about the excellent Japanese food. Nigiri sushi, hand rolls, raw and cooked entrees, and many items to fill a bento box are available. Presentations are as pretty as the food is delicious. Recommended for lunch and dinner. Reviewed 6/2/13. $$-$$$

Jack and Tony’s Restaurant and Whisky Bar, 115 Fourth St., Santa Rosa, 707-526-4347, jackandtonys.com
Jack and Tony’s in Railroad Square has the best whisky bar in the North Bay, with more than 300 selections from around the world, from rough to smooth, cheap to pricey, and with nuances to satisfy any palate. The food is solid crowd-pleasing; don’t miss the butterscotch pudding, made with real Scotch and butter. Reviewed 1/13/13. $$$-$$$$

La Rosa Tequileria & Grille, 500 Fourth St., Santa Rosa, 707-523-3663, larosasantarosa.com
The restaurant’s beautiful brick and wooden building in the heart of downtown Santa Rosa delivers many delights, starting with chef Robert Reyes’ inspired Mexican cooking. He gives modern and welcome twists to traditional Mexican dishes. There’s also a bar with 160 tequilas and fresh-squeezed margaritas served in a relaxed and casual atmosphere. It’s a great place to meet up and hang out. Reviewed 3/31/13. $$-$$$

Luma, 500 First St., Petaluma, 707-658-1940, lumapetaluma.com
This is a real find: an unpretentious restaurant with a feel-good vibe, great service and contemporary American cooking featuring nightly specials such as braised pork ribs and blackened catfish. The regular menu includes ancho- and porcini-seared filet mignon, chicken picadillo, and a daily “vegetarian delight,” a tray loaded with wonderfully prepared seasonal fruits and vegetables. The wine list is global and modestly priced. Reviewed 11/3/13. $$$

Cowgirl Crepe made at The Sunflower Caffe in Petaluma, Wednesday, July 31, 2013. (Crista Jeremiason / The Press Democrat)
Cowgirl Crepe made at The Sunflower Caffe in Petaluma, Wednesday, July 31, 2013. (Crista Jeremiason / The Press Democrat)

The Sunflower Caffe, 1435 N. McDowell Blvd., Suite 100, Petaluma, 707-792-5300, lydiasorganics.com
If you’re looking for healthy, vegan, gluten-free, organic food, you’ll find it at The Sunflower Caffe, the restaurant offshoot of Lydia’s Organics, a purveyor of such goods to the international market. Yes, The Sunflower Caffe serves burgers, pizza, crepes and more, but they’re all made of cooked or raw nuts, seeds, grains, greens and herbs. The cooks at The Sunflower Caffe make this fare taste good, and often delicious. Reviewed 8/11/13. $-$$

Prelude at the Green Music Center, 1801 E. Cotati Ave., Rohnert Park, 866-955-6040, sonoma.edu/prelude
Sonoma State is not your parents’ Granola U anymore. The campus’ beautiful Green Music Center has a fine restaurant in Prelude, where concert-goers can dine before or after performances in Weill Hall. The bar offers mixed drinks and wine; the food showcases Sonoma’s bounty from ocean and farm, making concert-going a double delight. Call for schedule and details. Reviewed 7/28/13. $$$$

Press, 587 St. Helena Highway, St. Helena, 707-967-0550, pressnapavalley.com
Owned by the family that owns Dean & DeLuca and the Oakville Grocery, Press focuses on high-quality steaks and a huge list of Napa Valley wines, from current releases to treasures produced as long ago as the 1960s. The cocktails are superior, too. While many good dishes come from the wood-fired oven, it’s really the steaks that are the stars, among them Wagyu beef from Japan and extravagantly good American beef. Reviewed 10/20/13. $$$$

Restaurant Rudy, 522 Broadway, Sonoma, 707-938-7373, restaurant-rudy.com
When it comes to classic Mediterranean dishes from southern France and Italy, chef Rudy Mihal is one of the best chefs in Sonoma County. Some of his American-style dishes don’t have quite as much flair, but that shouldn’t stop you from seeking out his cooking. His tortelli, lasagna and country-style duck and pork terrine are wonderful. Reviewed 6/30/13. $$-$$$$

Chicken mattone is served at the Rustic restaurant at Francis Ford Coppola Winery. (Conner Jay/The Press Democrat)
Chicken mattone is served at the Rustic restaurant at Francis Ford Coppola Winery. (Conner Jay/The Press Democrat)

Rustic, Francis’s Favorites, 300 Via Archimedes, Geyserville, 707-857-1485, franciscoppolawinery.com
Francis Ford Coppola needs no introduction, yet at his winery/restaurant/resort/tasting room, you’ll get one anyway. The restaurant, called “Rustic, Francis’s Favorites,” features the Italian dishes of his childhood, plus adult loves like an Argentine grill serving big portions of beef with chimichurri sauce. The wine list is mostly from his winery, and that’s OK. A wood-burning oven makes wonderful pizzas. Reviewed 11/10/13. $-$$$$

Santé at the Fairmont Sonoma Mission Inn, 100 Boyes Blvd., Sonoma, 707-939-2415, fairmont.com/sonoma/dining
The food at this classic restaurant sets the standard for high-quality spa food, not only in Sonoma County, but anywhere in the world. The ingredients are mostly locally sourced and treated with respect, so the basic flavors shine through. The chefs use various techniques and carefully measured herbs and condiments to glorify the base ingredients. The service is impeccable. Luxury doesn’t come cheap, but indulge yourself and go. Reviewed 6/16/13. $$$$

Sazon Peruvian Restaurant, 1129 Sebastopol Road, Santa Rosa, 707-523-4346, sazonsr.com
Small and inconspicuous, yet clean and sunny, this southwest Santa Rosa restaurant is a treasure, serving authentic Peruvian food that’s packed with the multicultural flavors that define Peru’s cuisine. The dishes are not only delicious, but beautifully presented. In addition to the regular menu, there are nightly specials. The ceviches are particularly good. Reviewed 5/5/13. $$

SEA Thai Bistro, 2323 Sonoma Ave., Santa Rosa, 707-528-8333, seathaibistro.com
The food at this upscale Thai restaurant can be very, very good, depending on what you order. Generally, the featured entrees, such as the Angel Eggplant Chicken and baked duck breast, are excellent. The spiciness is toned down for the American palate, and ingredients are organic or sustainably grown whenever possible. Reviewed 4/14/13. $$-$$$

Taverna Sofia, 244 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, 707-431-1982, tavernasofia.com
This sweet little taverna offers honest-to-goodness Greek fare. The Mediterranean diet never tasted so good. There are gyros, yes, but also spanakopita, souvlaki, moussaka and copious amounts of tzatziki. Greek coffee, strong and spiced, is available, as well as Greek wines and beers. For dessert, try the house-made baklava. Sofia’s usually on hand to share her sunny attitude and smile. Reviewed 12/2/12. $$

Executive chef John Toulze prepares an heirloom tomato salad at The Girl and the Fig in Sonoma. (Conner Jay/The Press Democrat)
Executive chef John Toulze prepares an heirloom tomato salad at The Girl and the Fig in Sonoma. (Conner Jay/The Press Democrat)

The Girl & the Fig, 110 West Spain St., Sonoma, 707-933-3000, thegirlandthefig.com
The food has never been better at this restaurant since proprietor Sondra Bernstein and executive chef John Toulze expanded their repertoire during world travels. All of the wines are made from Rhone grape varieties; the full-flavored dishes complement the French country theme. Duck confit, steak frites, wild flounder meuniere, pastis-scented mussels — there’s so much to like. Reviewed 2/17/13. $$-$$$

Tian Yuen, 421 S. Cloverdale Blvd., Cloverdale, 707-894-5697, tianyuencloverdale.com
This pan-Asian restaurant features traditional dishes of Thailand, Vietnam, Taiwan, Japan and the Chinese mainland. The dishes aren’t knock-offs of these cuisines, but faithfully reproduced with skill and excellent ingredients. The chef makes her own curry pastes, and her curries are outstanding. The Japanese component has its own Japanese sushi chef. A fresh and interesting concept. Reviewed 11/17/13 $-$$$

Twist Eatery, 6536 Front St., Forestville, 707-820-8443, twisteatery.com
The place is tiny, with nine stools at the counter, but the owners (the chef and his wife) are friendly, the vibe is warm, and the portions are satisfying. It’s a great place for lunch or late-afternoon/early dinner on Fridays and Saturdays. The food tends to be organic and locally sourced, with soups, salads, sandwiches, pastas and daily specials. The short wine list has some gems. Reviewed 7/14/13. $$

Wild Goat Bistro, 6 Petaluma Blvd. North, Petaluma, 707-658-1156, wildgoatbistro.com
Tucked into the back of the Great Petaluma Mill, this bistro specializes in Neapolitan-style pizza, and that means perfectly crisp, thin crusts. There’s lots more to like, mostly dishes with an Italian flair such as local lamb ragu over pappardelle. The salads are organic and the meats are nitrate-free. A good wine list helps out. Reviewed 3/3/13. $$-$$$

Pink Lady Apple Pie at Wishbone restaurant in Petaluma. (Alvin Jornada / The Press Democrat)
Pink Lady Apple Pie at Wishbone restaurant in Petaluma. (Alvin Jornada / The Press Democrat)

Wishbone, 841 Petaluma Blvd. North, Petaluma, 707-763-2663, wishbonepetaluma.com
If you remember Humble Pie restaurant in Penngrove, you’ll connect with Miriam Donaldson’s rustic country take on California cooking. She and Josh Norwitt are now at Wishbone, the former site of Three Cooks Cafe, and are serving up food that’s a locavore’s delight. Donaldson puts a lot of her personality into dishes like chicken jalapeño pie, a buckwheat crepe pizzetta with gravlox and preserved lemon, and trout wrapped in house-raised bacon. The wine list is full of treasures. Reviewed 11/24/13 $$$

Zazu Restaurant + Farm, 6770 McKinley St., Sebastopol, 707-523-4814, zazukitchen.com
While many restaurants claim to cook farm-to-table, Duskie Estes and John Stewart take the concept to a new level at their restaurant, now located in a spacious room at The Barlow in Sebastopol. They have a small farm at home where they raise animals, gather eggs and grow produce, and a kitchen garden by the restaurant, too. Stewart makes great bacon and salumi, Estes ferments vegetables, and the kitchen turns out American comfort food that’s impossibly tasty. The Sonoma County community is lucky to have them here. Reviewed 9/15/13. $$$-$$$$

Pop-up and Party On

Mike Ellis lights candles for his table setting at the PopUp Dinner in White Wine Country in Sonoma on Saturday, October 19, 2013. (Conner Jay/The Press Democrat)

Thanks to AMC’s retro TV show “Mad Men,” it’s hip to be square again. In Wine Country, pleasure-seekers of all ages are dressing up, sipping cocktails and stepping out to dinners that come with a twist: some kind of show.

More intimate than a restaurant and more social than a dinner party, the events are creative and theatrical.

Last fall, some 600 guests dressed all in white and gathered at Cornerstone Gardens in Sonoma for the first Pop-Up Dinner Wine Country. For the posh, Gatsby-style picnic, participants brought their own food and wine, plus over-the-top table decor. Then they danced the night away in a barn to the gypsy jazz of Dgiin.

Elaborate table settings are prepared for the PopUp Dinner in White Wine Country in Sonoma on Saturday, October 19, 2013. (Conner Jay/The Press Democrat)
Elaborate table settings are prepared for the PopUp Dinner in White Wine Country in Sonoma on Saturday, October 19, 2013. (Conner Jay/The Press Democrat)

“It’s not just a pop-up dinner, but a pop-up art installation,” said Nicole Benjamin, co-owner of Hand Made Events of Sonoma, which hosts the intimate dinners among strangers in cities across the country.

Part speakeasy, part Venetian carnival and part shabby-chic convention, the all-white dinners started in France in the 1980s and have since gained momentum, spreading from Nairobi to New York.

The parties offer something for everyone — food, wine, fashion, decor, music and a hint of mystique — while relying on the guests themselves to create the evening’s zeitgeist.

At Cornerstone Gardens, serious foodies warmed up gourmet dishes such as duck breast over Sterno, while a dozen Marilyn Monroe look-alikes imitated the fetching film star with glamorous white wigs.

The pop-up dinner will return to Wine Country this fall, in a new, secret location that will not be revealed until the last minute.

Those who can’t wait that long can head to Suite D in Sonoma, where Girl & The Fig restaurateur Sondra Bernstein and her chef and business partner, John Toulze, throw weekly pop-up dinners for 40 to 50 guests.

Fabiola Sotomayor and Emily Mughannam prepare their picnic table for the PopUp Dinner in White Wine Country in Sonoma on Saturday, October 19, 2013. (Conner Jay/The Press Democrat)
Fabiola Sotomayor and Emily Mughannam prepare their picnic table for the PopUp Dinner in White Wine Country in Sonoma on Saturday, October 19, 2013. (Conner Jay/The Press Democrat)

Each dinner offers a different theme, decor and menu, from Southern-style feasts to lobster bakes, with wine. Entertainment can include a flamenco guitarist, a Ping-Pong tournament or a caricaturist.

“It’s really quirky and fun,” Bernstein said. “It gives us a chance to do something we don’t normally do.”

Up north in Geyserville, Dino Bugica draws food lovers from far and near with his soulful, wood-fired Italian cooking at Diavola Pizzeria. Four times a year, Bugica also hosts the Diavola Supper Club, a pop-up dinner and dance that draws up to 120 guests to the Oddfellows Lodge above the restaurant.

It’s a grown-up affair for hipsters that offers a family-style meal, guest winemakers and brewers, and a live band with dancing into the wee hours.

Bring your own fedora and loud tie. “Mad Men” would approve.

Diavola Pizzeria, 21021 Geyserville Ave., Geyserville, 707-814-0111,
diavolapizzeria.com

Hand Made Events, 974 First St. West, Sonoma, handmadeevents.com

Suite D, 21800 Schellville Road, Suite D, Sonoma, 707-933-3667, figsuited.com

We Love Local, But…

bluewine

BiteClub’s a fan of pretty much any great artisan product from Northern California. But I’m not sure I can enthusiastically endorse the Bissinger Chocolate Covered Blue Cheese Wine Grapes. I wanted to, I really did. They are, after all, chocolate covered Point Reyes blue cheese with wine grapes! Sold at the Epicurean Connection (122 W. Napa St., Sonoma), they’re exactly what they sound like. Delicious dark chocolate, lush blue cheese and a chewy Shiraz-infused wine grape in the middle. Sounds like a winner, right? Unfortunately, the three aren’t necessarily delicious together, in a single bite. But for a gag gift for your favorite choco-holic? Brilliant.

Here’s the official description:

Blue Cheese Wine Grapes: Bissinger’s Handcrafted Chocolatier

Wine grapes are infused with Shiraz incorporate a delicate layer of Point Reyes Blue Cheese and then enrobed in our signature 60% European-style Chocolate. Nice upfront chocolate and red wine notes are followed by extended lingering taste of blue cheese.

Scout , John and Zeke’s opening in Healdsburg

scoutChange is never easy. Especially for generations of Healdsburg barflies whose only constant in the ever-evolving Wine Country town was John and Zeke’s Bar on the Plaza–which closed last fall. For more than 50 years, the gritty, locals-only bar was a popular, Cheer’s-like watering hole where ranchers, winemakers and other townsfolk could grab a beer, play a game of shuffleboard and catch up on the latest gossip.

After the building sold, John and Zeke’s owners vowed to reopen elsewhere, and they’ve kept their word. The new John and Zeke’s has opened just a few blocks away at 420 Healdsburg Avenue (the former B&B Lounge) kicking things off with a New Year’s Eve party on Wednesday.

Meanwhile, a sign has gone up on the former John and Zeke’s location (111 Plaza St.) for Scout Bar, which will open in March. The building’s new owner, Sam Young, owns the 70’s themed Kozy Kar Bar in San Francisco.

 

Tasting the Future

Bella Vineyards and Wine Caves were decked out in country lighting for the 35th Annual Barrel Tasting in northern Sonoma County, Saturday March 2, 2013. (photo by Kent Porter)

In their first year of life, most red wines taste raw, tannic and mouth-puckering — assaults that only winemakers should have to endure. So how to explain why 15,000 people would go out of their way to sample harsh, astringent, all-elbows red wines less than a year old, and pay good money to do so?

It’s part of the mystique of barrel tasting, a ritual in which vintners pour their wines right from the barrel for consumers looking for a behind-the-scenes experience. They also hope to snag prized bottles at discounted prices, well before they’re sold in tasting rooms.

Filled barrels are stored in cellars so chilly that visitors can see their own breath; bundling up is part of the fun. It’s a glimpse behind the curtain at gleaming stainless-steel tanks, wine-stained casks, and bottling lines either clattering away or stoically silent. Wine cellars have a distinct aroma, too, a haunting mix of fermented grapes, toasty oak and wet cement. Visitors can see, feel and smell the winery as well as sip its young wines.

Barrel tasting relies on a system called futures: pay now and get the bottled wine 12 to 18 months later. The buyer feels like an insider, invested in the future of the wine; the winery’s cash flow improves by finding early homes for the bottles. Customer and seller both win.

The Wine Road Barrel Tasting is a phenomenon, growing from a one-day affair in 1978 to two three-day weekends that are attended by 15,000 people, 50 percent of them from out of state. They travel from winery to winery, sometimes in limos, dressed way up, or down, to try wines that aren’t yet ready to drink.

In the recent past, the event’s popularity and $10 price led to overcrowding, buses blocking narrow roads, and inebriation of those who didn’t spit after sipping. But tickets now cost $30 to $50, which has eliminated most of the hearty partiers; there are also restrictions on buses and limos. As a result, barrel tasting has become attractive again to dedicated collectors and those wanting to get the jump on bottles that might not be available a year later.

Visitors to David Coffaro Estate Vineyard & Winery sampled wines straight from the barrel during the 34th annual Barrel Tasting Wine Road event in March. (photo by Christopher Chung)
Visitors to David Coffaro Estate Vineyard & Winery sampled wines straight from the barrel during the 34th annual Barrel Tasting Wine Road event in March. (photo by Christopher Chung)

Some 120 vintners will pull bungs from barrels at the 36th annual Wine Road Barrel Tasting in late February and early March. The event has become a template for other regions seeking to sell wine at a traditionally slow time of year. On the weekend after Wine Road, Sonoma Valley wineries roll out their barrels for Savor Sonoma Valley.

“We like barrel tasting for the opportunity to educate,” said Julie Pedroncelli St. John, vice president of marketing for Pedroncelli Winery in Geyserville. “Our interaction with a visitor might spark a lifetime interest in wine.”

So can the purchase of futures, said Rod Berglund, winemaker at Joseph Swan Vineyards in Forestville. “Futures can be the only way to acquire a wine made in small amounts. People like to have something the rest of the world doesn’t have,” he said. “We also try to offer futures at a generous discount. Since wine prices seldom go down and our costs are constantly going up, futures buyers often get a very, very good deal.”

While a few wineries offer barrel tastings year-round, the real action is on the two Wine Road weekends, according to Executive Director Beth Costa. “Some visitors bring spreadsheets of what’s in their cellars,” she said, “and use them to decide which wines to buy. They’re that into it.”

Wine Road Barrel Tasting, Feb. 28-March 2 and March 7-9, 11 a.m.-4 p.m., 800-723-6336, wineroad.com, $30-$50

Savor Sonoma Valley, March 15-16, 11 a.m.-4 p.m., heartofsonomavalley.com, $50-$65