Page 459 – Sonoma Magazine

Swirl, Sniff and Sip Your Way Into Spring

March 2015

By Virginie Boone

The 37th Annual Wine Road Barrel Tasting in the Russian River, Dry Creek and Alexander Valleys. (Photo by John Burgess)

Spring is a time of renewal and wild growth in vineyards and the surrounding gardens and grounds of many wineries. Inside, it’s a time for barrel-tasting wines that are still aging, and for sampling exciting new releases, which include crisp, lighter whites, reds and rosés. Wine writer Virginie Boone recommends these wineries for springtime visits. They are open to the public, typically from around 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. Contact the individual tasting room to confirm.

Anaba Wines, 60 Bonneau Road, Sonoma, 707-996-4188, anabawines.com. A specialist in Rhone-inspired wines, red and white, Anaba has its tasting room inside a 100-year-old farmhouse overlooking the Carneros hills. It’s a fine place to learn about wine, beginning with the Friday through Monday Beyond the Label experience, a one-hour discussion that varies from week to week. Tuesday through Thursday, enjoy the Salon Tasting, a sit-down guided tasting of several wines ($30, reservations required).

Arista Winery, 7015 Westside Road, Healdsburg, 707-473–0606, aristawinery.com. Japanese-inspired gardens with babbling waterfalls accentuate any visit to Arista, where Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Zinfandel and Gewürztraminer are the stars. Vegetable gardens also figure in, used enthusiastically by the in-house chef for special food-and-wine pairings.

Beringer Vineyards, 2000 Main St., St. Helena, 707-302-7592, beringer.com. Founded more than a century ago, Beringer is so vast and historic that it operates as a small village, with nooks and crannies throughout its sprawling, tree-filled property. It offers wine and food tastings of all stripes, as well as live music and other special events. The first tour to take is the Taste of Beringer, a chance to learn about the early history of Napa Valley and about Beringer itself, offered three times a day for $40. The winery’s coolest feature is its tunnels, built for aging barrels in the late 1870s and 1880s by Chinese laborers; tastings are sometimes held within.

Bouchaine, 1075 Buchli Station Road, Napa, 707-252-9065, bouchaine.com. A longtime producer based in the heart of Carneros, Bouchaine makes elegant Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs, sourcing grapes from its 100 acres of estate vineyards. Overlooking the Napa-Sonoma Marshes Wildlife Area, the tasting room affords views of San Francisco and San Pablo Bay. Wander through Dee’s Garden and take a Safari tour of the vineyards.

Cairdean Vineyards & Winery, 3111 St. Helena Highway, St. Helena, 707-968-5434, cairdeanestate.com. New on the northern Napa Valley scene, Cairdean makes a variety of wines from grapes grown in Napa and Sonoma. Its The Farmer and the Fox gastropub is open for dinner nightly, and the well-appointed Butterscots Bakery is the perfect stop for cappuccino and croissants. The outdoor fire pit is an additional perk. The tasting room stays open until 8 p.m., making it easy to segue to dinner next door.

Cline Cellars, 24737 Arnold Drive, Sonoma, 800-546-2070, clinecellars.com. A beautiful location with stunning gardens, Carneros-based Cline offers complimentary tastings of five of its Rhone-style wines and, for $5, a flight of three reserve wines. The original site of the last California mission (begun in 1820 and later moved to downtown Sonoma), the property includes a museum devoted to mission history, including handcrafted models of all 21 missions originally built for the 1939 World’s Fair. Entrance to the museum, open daily 10 a.m. to 4 p.m., is free; reservations are required for large groups.

DeLoach Vineyards, 1791 Olivet Road, Santa Rosa, 707-755-3309, deloachvineyards.com. The visitor experience at DeLoach is always a good one. Owner Jean-Charles Boisset celebrates nature here and the bounty of biodynamic farming, as he does at sister property Raymond Vineyards in Napa Valley. Take part in the M.F.S. (My Finest Selection) Blending Experience, an opportunity to play with Pinot Noir, available daily by appointment, at 10:30 a.m. and 1:30 p.m.

Domaine Carneros, 1240 Duhig Road, Napa, 707-257-0101, domainecarneros.com. Enjoy exquisite bubbly on the winery’s well-appointed terrace overlooking Carneros. Table service is offered, and caviar and artisan cheeses pair prominently with the range of wines. In addition to sparkling-wine samplers ($30), the winery can put together a sampling of its four Pinot Noirs, or do a Grande Tasting ($40) of both bubbles and reds.

Etude Wines, 1250 Cuttings Wharf Road, Napa, 707-257-5300, etudewines.com. Etude is a great name in Carneros Pinot Noir (and many other wines). In 2012, Etude winemaker Jon Priest decided to take on the world, offering wine lovers the chance to come to one place and taste not only Carneros Pinot but also several from Santa Barbara County (where Priest grew up), the Sonoma Coast, Willamette Valley and, most unusually, New Zealand’s Central Otago region. Don’t miss tasting through these wines, a pointed and seductive study of the wine world.

Ferrari-Carano, 8761 Dry Creek Road, Healdsburg, 707-433-6700, ferrari-carano.com. At the northern edge of Dry Creek Valley, Ferrari-Carano is as known for its stunning 5 acres of gardens as it is for its wines, a wide selection of whites and reds that includes its highest-end Cabernet Sauvignon, PreVail. In spring, more than 10,000 tulips and daffodils erupt, providing a sensory explosion so popular that the winery has a flower hotline, 707-433-5349.

Gary Farrell Vineyards & Winery, 10701 Westside Road, Healdsburg, 707-473-2909, garyfarrellwinery.com. With one of the best views in the Russian River Valley, Gary Farrell produces some of its best wines in recent memory, from its single-vineyard Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs to Zinfandel, and more. This time of year, take in a Terrace Tasting ($25), a hosted sampling of six single-vineyard wines outdoors, or book ahead for the two-hour tour, tasting and lunch ($75) on the more private Woodland Terrace.

Hall Wines, 401 St. Helena Highway, St. Helena, 707-967-2626, hallwines.com. Home to the gigantic polished stainless steel bunny sculpture, Hall celebrates wine and art, offering opportunities to walk through the winery and view works of modern art and sculpture while sampling exceptionally high-quality wines.

Hanzell Vineyards, 18596 Lomita Ave., Sonoma, 707-996-3860, hanzell.com. One of Sonoma Valley’s most prestigious producers, Hanzell pours tastes of its Pinot Noir and Chardonnay by appointment only. It’s worth the effort. A 90-minute sit-down tasting of new releases ($45) is accompanied by a traipse through the property’s prized vineyards, including the original Ambassador’s 1953 Vineyard. Hanzell’s well-earned reputation for ageworthy wines can also be tested in a seated tasting of rare vintages from the winery’s own library ($150).

Imagery Estate Winery, 14335 Highway 12, Glen Ellen, 707-935-4515, imagerywinery.com. Run by Joe Benziger, Imagery is devoted to cool artwork and making great wines, offering unusual varieties such as Tempranillo and Lagrein. The artistic labels reflect the winery’s dual sensibilities. Check out the label gallery online and take the time to peruse the art gallery at the winery, too.

Iron Horse Vineyards, 9786 Ross Station Road, Sebastopol, 707-887-1507, ironhorsevineyards.com. The noted sparkling wine producer in Green Valley of Russian River Valley also makes stellar Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. There’s a gorgeous view from the outdoor tasting bar, which is covered in case of rain. A tour and tasting with winemaker David Munksgard happens every Monday at 10 a.m. (limit four people; $50/person) and should not be missed.

J Vineyards & Winery, 11447 Old Redwood Highway, Healdsburg, 707-431-5400, jwine.com. A glass of bubbly is always a good thing, and this is a well-appointed spot at which to have one, as well as J’s lineup of single-vineyard Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. The J Bubble Room pairs wines with exquisite, locally sourced dishes.

Keller Estate, 5875 Lakeville Highway, Petaluma, 707-765-2117, kellerestate.com. The best vantage point in the Petaluma Gap, where the meandering Petaluma River and vibrantly green pastures that provide nourishment to bouncing baby lambs can be seen in the distance, Keller is a lovely place to while away the day. Taste estate-grown Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays with a plates of cheese and charcuterie. Open Friday-Sunday, and other days by appointment.

Lynmar Estate, 3909 Frei Road, Sebastopol, 707-829-3374, lynmarestate.com. Among the finest garden sites in the region, springtime visits to Lynmar mean enjoying the natural beauty of the site, from the herb and vegetable gardens to the estate vines just beginning to bloom. Savor the Pinot Noirs, Syrahs and Chardonnays made by this producer, as well as its crisp, fruity rosé.

Marimar Estate, 11400 Graton Road, Sebastopol, 707-823-4365, marimarestate.com. A leader in cool-climate winemaking and viticulture, as well as organic and biodynamic farming, Marimar Estate is a beautiful place to visit and learn about diurnal temperature shifts along the western Sonoma Coast. A traditional tasting of five wines is available daily for $10; reserve ahead to enjoy a tapas and wine pairing experience for $45. Tours are available weekdays at
11 a.m. and 2 p.m., by appointment.

Medlock Ames, 13414 Chalk Hill Road, Healdsburg, 707-431-8845, medlockames.com. Come spring, the thing to do is take a tour of the winery’s Bell Mountain Ranch. Walk through the sheep-tended vineyards, olive groves and organic gardens, and finish with a sit-down tasting of the wines paired with seasonal bites. Reservations are required ($35).

Merry Edwards Winery, 2959 Gravenstein Highway North, Sebastopol, 707-823-7466, merryedwards.com. Arrive at this winery in the heart of Russian River Valley and get a taste of Merry Edwards’ crisp, spring-centric, acclaimed Sauvignon Blanc. What follows is a tasting of her exquisite Pinot Noirs, including single-vineyard, estate and regional bottlings.

Paradise Ridge/Byck Family Winery, 4545 Thomas Lake Harris Drive, Santa Rosa, 707-528-9463, prwinery.com. Situated on 156 acres with impressive views west over Santa Rosa and toward the coast, Paradise Ridge makes a range of worthy Russian River Valley and Rockpile wines. Its sculpture collection is a bonus, a selection of which is featured throughout the property in Marijke’s Grove.

Pine Ridge Vineyards, 5901 Silverado Trail, Napa, 800-575-9777, pineridgevineyards.com. Within the Stags Leap District, Pine Ridge makes wines from a handful of Napa Valley appellations (Carneros, Howell Mountain, Oakville, Rutherford and Stags Leap), and invites visitors to enjoy its 5×5 Tasting ($95) in its caves. It’s an opportunity to try five estate-grown wines paired with small bites from the in-house chef. In good weather, book a Taste on the Terrace ($50), a self-guided tasting of four wines with a platter of cheese and charcuterie.

Preston of Dry Creek, 9282 West Dry Creek Road, Healdsburg, 707-433-3372, prestonvineyards.com. From its secluded outpost on a dead-end road, Preston is a stalwart farm and winery and a devotee of organic farming, which it has practiced for some 40 years. In addition to wine grapes, Preston grows olives, grains, vegetables, fruits and nuts, and has pastures for many animals, including chickens and sheep. In the tasting room, enjoy Rhone-inspired wines and blends, plus Zinfandel and Sauvignon Blanc.

Quivira Vineyards, 4900 West Dry Creek Road, Healdsburg, 707-431-8333, quivirawine.com. A wonderland of natural beauty in all seasons, Quivira comes alive in spring. It’s open for tours ($20, weather permitting) of its Zinfandel vineyards, beehives and biodynamic gardens, where chickens roam free. Be sure to try the winery’s sumptuous Sauvignon Blanc and hard-to-find Grenache.

Ramey Wine Cellars, 25 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, 707-433-0870, rameywine.com. A master of many wines, David Ramey’s tasting venue is open by appointment only, Monday through Saturday, at either 10 a.m. or 2 p.m. The experience is worth booking; it’s a one-hour, sit-down exploration of several wines ($25), from Sonoma Coast Chardonnay to Oakville Cabernet Sauvignon.

Ram’s Gate Winery, 28700 Arnold Drive, Sonoma, 707-721-8700, ramsgatewinery.com. The entry point into Carneros from the southwest, Ram’s Gate offers both indoor and outdoor fireplaces from which to enjoy its luxurious wines, from single-vineyard Pinot Noir and Chardonnay to burly Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon. Tasting flights are offered, by reservation, with a chef’s selection of cheese, charcuterie and other accompaniments Thursday through Monday. Or go for the Palate Play seated food and wine pairing of four wines (90 minutes, $60), available by reservation.

Ravenswood Winery, 18701 Gehricke Road, Sonoma, 707- 933-2332, ravenswoodwinery.com. Tours and tastings of this storied Zinfandel producer occur daily, as do special tours and barrel tastings. But the experience to look for is the Blend Your Own “No Wimpy Wine” day, a chance to craft one’s own California field blend of Zinfandel, Petite Sirah and Carignane and take home your personal blend (reservations required, $50).

Schramsberg Vineyards, 1400 Schramsberg Road, Calistoga, 800-877-3623, schramsberg.com. Among the first in California to specialize in sparkling wine, Schramsberg occupies hallowed, historic ground. It is home to the oldest hillside vineyards in Napa Valley and some of the first caves dug for storing and aging wine. Take a tour by appointment, and don’t miss the Mirabelle Brut Rosé and other gorgeous sparklers before moving on to taste the J. Davies Estate Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Noir.

Sojourn Cellars, 141 E. Napa Street, Sonoma, 707-938-7212, sojourn cellars.com. From a cozy historic home refashioned into a tasting salon in downtown Sonoma, Sojourn pours a world of well-crafted Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon in a relaxed, sit-down environment ($25). Tastings must be scheduled ahead of time but are offered daily.

St. Francis Winery & Vineyards, 100 Pythian Road, Santa Rosa, 707-538-9463, stfranciswinery.com. With one of the best food-and-wine pairing experiences in the region, St. Francis is a welcome place to relax and enjoy a seated food and wine pairing ($50, reservations required), a simpler cheese and charcuterie accompaniment, or a flight of limited-production wines ($30, walk-ins welcome). But the best-kept secret might be the private estate dinners ($148, reservations required, 707-833-0255).

Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars, 5766 Silverado Trail, Napa, 707-944-2020, cask23.com. The winery that shook the world, responsible for the winning Cabernet Sauvignon at the 1976 Paris Tasting, Stag’s Leap recently unveiled its FAY Outlook and Visitor Center, overlooking the winery’s FAY and S.L.V. estate vineyards and in full view of the Stags Leap Palisades. Open daily, the winery offers tours and estate collection tastings, by reservation. Its Fire and Water Tour and Tasting ($95) digs into the characteristics of the estate property, accompanied by wines and appetizers.

Guess who’s taking over the menu at Heritage Public House?

March 2015

By biteclub

I’ll give you a hint at which Santa Rosa restaurateur is taking over the food operations at Heritage Public House (1901 Mendocino Ave., Santa Rosa): His chicken wings are second to none and his burger is hands-down, my favorite in Sonoma County.

You guessed it (or maybe you didn’t); Josh Silvers of Jackson’s Bar and Oven (and the former Syrah Bistro) has been tapped to overhaul the gastropub’s menu come mid-April. Boom! Here’s why you should be stoked, too.

1. The beer is just going to get (even) better: The pub is also a working brewery, and home to Bloodline Brewing Co., launched last fall. GM Roman D’Argenzio and his team will be focusing on increasing production of this already-acclaimed brewery. The pub will continue to serve an impressive variety of California crafts brews on tap as well.

2. Outdoor patio: Silvers plans to close Heritage Public House for about a week in mid-April to update the restaurant, revamp the outdoor beer garden and add more tables.

3. Beer-worthy food: Dishes like ale-braised short ribs, grilled salmon with hard-cider cream sauce, beer-steamed mussels, wings and burgers (natch), fresh oysters and “Brewer’s Fries” (with garlic and brewer’s yeast), along with Gypsy Girl sausages, a smoked chicken Cobb salad and hearty black barley risotto will keep both diners and drinkers happy.

4. The prices are right: Silvers gets that the pub is a college favorite, so smaller plates will be priced for student budgets. Larger plates will range from $15-$23, with sandwiches and salads somewhere in between.

5. Fish and chips stay, the sheet pans go: Heritage has had solid beer-battered fish and chips since opening in 2012, but serving them on a sheet pan got old. Silvers plans to keep fish and chips on the menu, but class things up a notch with, uh, plates.

BiteClub will have a first look and all the details on the new menu when it debuts in late April.

The Birds Cafe, Bodega Bay

March 2015

By biteclub

The Birds Cafe in Bodega Bay serves up casual food with a million dollar view

You don’t have to pay a lot for a million dollar view in Bodega Bay. The tiny Birds Cafe, perched above the harbor, serves only a handful of items — fish and chips, salads, clam chowder, shrimp tacos — but may be one of my new favorite places on the coast. Order at the counter, then walk up the stairs (there’s also a handy ramp) to the concrete patio for a lovely view and a picnic-style meal for under $15. Best bets: Creamy chowder, artichoke fritters and a lightly-battered fish and chips plate. Spicy tartar sauce makes this red-basket special, well, special.

Open daily from 11:30a.m. to 5p.m., 1407 Hwy 1, Bodega Bay.

Applewood Inn Gets a New Chef: Jamil Peden

March 2015

By biteclub

Jamil Peden has taken over as chef of the Applewood Inn in Guerneville

It’s been a while since I’ve made a visit up to the Applewood Inn in Guerneville. Having lost both its Michelin-starred chef, Bruce Frieseke in 2011, and its Michelin star in 2012, there didn’t seem to be a ton of reason to make the trek, despite other talented toques making brief appearances at the bed and breakfast.

But this week, local chef Jamil Peden has taken over the mantle. Peden, most recently of Woodfour Brewing, and before that, doing stints at Scopa and Petite Syrah, among others. He’s already making changes to the menu, and we’ll be eager to see if he can bring some star-power back to G-

Dining Out

March 2015

By Sonoma Magazine Staff

The gratin of baby potatoes filled with beef belly ragout and topped with a parmesan crust at Angele Restaurant and Bar in Napa. (Photo by Beth Schlanker)

Here are spoon-size portions of previous restaurant reviews by Jeff Cox, accompanied by the date they originally appeared in The Press Democrat. Reviews will appear on a seasonal basis.

Angele Restaurant & Bar, 540 Main St., Napa, 707-252-8115, angelerestaurant.com. This sweet restaurant with a view of the Napa River tries very hard to be French — and succeeds. The dishes honor the ingredients, and they’re served in charming and flavorful ways. The entrees run to the standards like salmon, steak, pork chop, scallops, quail and duck breast, but it’s among the many appetizers that chef Rogelio Garcia’s creativity is truly found. The desserts are delicious and the wine list extensive. Highly recommended. Reviewed 9/14/14. $$$.

Aventine Glen Ellen, 14301 Arnold Drive, Glen Ellen, 707-934-8911, glenellen.aventinehospitality.com. A 170-year-old grist mill is home to Aventine, brought up to date and surrounded by decking shaded by ancient trees along a year-round creek. The food is Italian aimed at the American palate, with excellent lasagna, wood-fired pizza, and grilled salmon and lamb dishes. A full bar and good wine list make this place perfect for relaxing after a hard day’s wine tasting. Reviewed 8/24/14. $$$

Baci Cafe & Wine Bar, 336 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, 707-433-8111, bacicafeandwinebar.com. Classic Italian dishes, many of them from the northern part of Italy, are expertly prepared by chef Shari Sarabi, who’s originally from Iran but cooks as though he’s from Milan. A large wood-fire oven turns out some of the best pizza in the region. The sauce Bolognese is the real thing, and there’s tiramisu and panna cotta for dessert. The wine list features bottles from Italy and around Healdsburg. Reviewed 12/1/13. $$$

Brasserie Restaurant at the Hyatt Vineyard Creek Hotel & Spa, 170 Railroad St., Santa Rosa, 707-636-7388, vineyardcreek.hyatt.com. The kitchen turns out some excellent dishes from executive chef Chris Ciero, including small plates and appetizers such as mini ravioli and Humboldt Fog tomato galette, and main plates that include a near-perfect flatiron steak and herb-roasted chicken. The menu allows diners to select a small or large portion of meat or seafood, choose one of six sauces, and add two side dishes of their choice. Reviewed 1/18/15. $$-$$$.

Brasa Churrascaria and Brew Pub, 505 Mendocino Ave., Santa Rosa, 707-623-9382, thebrasa.com. This is a Brazilian barbecue restaurant with some of that country’s authentic recipes carefully prepared. Don’t miss Brazil’s national dish, feijoada completa, a delicious pork and black bean stew. Discover the joys of a cocktail called the caipirinha and the Brazilian cachaça spirit used to make it. The rodizio, at $40, is a feast of grilled meats and side dishes that’s the basis for a good party. Reviewed 8/31/14. $-$$.

The patio at Campo Fina in Healdsburg. (Photo by Kent Porter)

Campo Fina, 330 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, 707-395-4640, campofina.com. This small-plates sister restaurant to the incomparable Scopa has the same crowd-pleasing Italian food, including perfect pizzas from the wood-burning oven. There’s an patio in the backyard and a bocce court. The place specializes in house-developed and classic cocktails, as well as Italian and local wines. The food is so good you might just think you’re in Italy. Reviewed 10/12/14. $$-$$$

Diavola Pizzeria and Salumeria, 21021 Geyserville Ave., Geyserville, 707-814-0111, diavolapizzeria.com. Chef and owner Dino Bugica spent years learning about real Italian food from his real Italian family and by living and working in Italy. It shows in his hand-crafted salami, authentic pizzas, pasta dishes, entrees and desserts. The house-made salami and cheese appetizer is not to be missed. Diavola is a magnet for food lovers in sleepy, out-of-the-way Geyserville, and deservedly so. Reviewed 5/11/14. $$-$$$$

Earth’s Bounty Kitchen & Wine Bar, 5755 Mountain Hawk Way, Santa Rosa, 707-827-9700, earthsbountykitchen.com. The emphasis is on local, sustainable, farm-to-table fare, and the quality of the ingredients is a plus, even when some of the dishes don’t quite work. There’s something for everyone, from mac and cheese to grilled albacore, and the desserts are scrumptious. In addition to the restaurant, there’s a deli and wine bar. Reviewed 9/28/14. $$-$$$

The Farmer & The Fox, 3111 St. Helena Highway N., St. Helena, 707-968-5434, cairdeanestate.com. Joseph Humphrey has cooked at many iconic restaurants in the North Bay, and now he’s at this classy Scots-themed restaurant in the Cairdean Estate — a collection of shops and eateries at Cairdean Vineyards & Winery. His food, as always, is super, with a Scottish lilt: barley stew with fried quail, butterscotch soufflé, and one of the best burgers around. Great cocktails, too. Reviewed 1/25/15. $$-$$$

The Gypsy Café, 162 N. Main St., Sebastopol, 707-861-3825, gypsy-café.com. The Gypsy Café occupies the spot where the Pine Cone restaurant operated for decades. It’s a great spot for breakfast and lunch; dinner is served only on Fridays, but there’s lots from which to choose. Chef Martin Maigaard calls his cooking “modern comfort food,” and so it is, with pot roast, local salmon in season, free-range fried chicken and vegetarian pasta, among other dishes. The wine list is small but from premium Dry Creek Valley producers. Reviewed 8/3/14. $$-$$$

Big Bowl of Roasted Wood Oven Mussels, cooked with fennel, garlic, onion and beer, at Jackson's Bar and Grill in Santa Rosa. (Photo by Christopher Chung) — Big Bowl of Roasted Wood Oven Mussels, cooked with fennel, garlic, onion and beer, at Jackson’s Bar and Grill in Santa Rosa. (Photo by Christopher Chung)

Jackson’s Bar and Oven, 135 Fourth St., Santa Rosa, 707-545-6900, jacksonsbarandoven.com. This beautifully designed restaurant in the Railroad Square district is the place for meeting friends and hanging out in Santa Rosa. A wide array of drinks and a menu chockablock with well-crafted American dishes like burgers, pizzas, braised short ribs, fish tacos and great desserts (don’t miss the beignets) all add up to a place you like to be in, with a staff that likes you in return. Reviewed 9/1/13. $$-$$$$

Juanita Juanita, 19114 Arnold Drive, Sonoma, 707-935-3981, juanitajuanita.com. The mural on the outside of this taqueria shows Juanita, the original owner, in profile. It’s beginning to show its two decades of age, but the food inside is as good as ever. Everything from the tacos to the featured plates of enchiladas, jerk chicken, chile Colorado, carne asada and chanchamito, is a cut above the ordinary. Yes, burritos are available, but no tamales or chile rellenos. Reviewed 11/30/14. $-$$

KIN, 740 McClelland Drive, Windsor, 707-837-7546, kinwindsor.com. A big, boisterous place with a friendly atmosphere, KIN serves American comfort food (meaning an eclectic mix of favorite dishes of many cultures), and has a nice list of craft beers. Its name implies its purpose: bring the whole family, from toddlers to seniors, because there’s something on this menu for everyone, including wood-fire pizzas. Reviewed 11/23/14. $$

La Toque, 1314 McKinstry St., Napa, 707-257-5150, latoque.com. Located in the Westin Verasa Napa hotel, Ken Frank’s La Toque is one of Napa Valley’s premier places to eat. It has earned a Michelin star, and Frank’s modern French cuisine deserves it. The plates are small but intriguing. The wine list is glorious, with wines from everywhere. Whatever you order will be first rate. Reviewed 1/11/15. $$$$

Le Bistro, 312 Petaluma Blvd. S., Petaluma, 707-762-8292, lebistropetaluma.com. Chef Corey Basso has been cooking classic French and Italian dinners at this small neighborhood bistro since 1988, refining and improving the dishes as he goes. Now they are just about perfect. They’re not complicated (fettucini with prawns, chicken breast, grilled lamb loin, a fresh fish of the day) but are thrillingly delicious. Reviewed 4/20/14. $$-$$$

Lamb and apricot curry, front, and saag paneer, cheese with spinach, rear, at Marigold Indian Bistro in Sebastopol. (Photo by Beth Schlanker)

Marigold Indian Bistro, 7225 Healdsburg Ave., Sebastopol, 707-329-6965, marigoldbistro.com. Chef Uddab Timilsina makes Indian cuisine exciting, not just because he’s mastered the art of combining Indian spices in intriguing ways, but also because his dishes are made with top-quality ingredients, which gives them the added appeal of freshness and purity of flavor. Along with the usual Indian dishes, he occasionally ventures into less charted territory. His lamb and apricot combination, for instance, is wonderful. Reviewed 11/9/14. $$

OSO, 9 E. Napa St., Sonoma, 707-931-6926, ososonoma.com. Owner David Bush is a talented chef who creates elaborate plates of food that might better be handled with some restraint. But his eclectic menu is invariably well prepared, and the emphasis is on raw seafood and slow-cooked meats. Guests must be 21 or older, because of the restaurant’s tavern license. The wine list is a major feature, filled with interesting selections. There’s a prix-fixe dinner and wine pairing menu, too. Reviewed 12/21/14. $$

Rossi’s 1906, 401 Grove St., El Verano, 707-343-0044, rossis1906.com. The former Little Switzerland and its polka bands have been transformed into a Southern-style roadhouse with cherry-wood-smoked ribs, tri-tip, pork, chicken and shrimp, and live music Thursday through Sunday starting at 5 p.m. The good barbecue is accompanied by the usuals: fries, mac and cheese, hushpuppies and great onion rings. More than half of the 26 beers available are on tap. This is a fun place with good eats. Reviewed 1/4/15. $$

Rustic, Francis’s Favorites, at Francis Ford Coppola Winery, 300 Via Archimedes, Geyserville, 707-857-1485, francisfordcoppolawinery.com. Francis Ford Coppola needs no introduction, but at his restaurant-resort-watering hole in Geyserville, you’ll get one anyway. The restaurant features the Italian foods of Coppola’s childhood, plus some adult loves such as an Argentine grill from which come big portions of beef with chimichurri sauce. The wine list is mostly from his winery, and that’s fine. A wood-burning oven makes wonderful pizzas. Reviewed 11/10/13. $-$$$$

Dungeness crab puffs are served at SEA Noodle Bar in Santa Rosa. (Photo by Conner Jay)

SEA Noodle Bar, 286 Coddingtown Center, Santa Rosa, 707-521-9087, seanoodlebar.com. This authentic Thai noodle shop is chef-owner Tony Ounpamornchai’s third restaurant in Sonoma County, and it’s just what a hungry public wants: noodle and rice bowls with tofu, chicken, duck, pork and prawns at moderate prices. His appetizers are every bit as good as the bowls, and even prettier in appearance. Don’t miss the potstickers and the Dungeness crab puffs. Reviewed 8/17/14. $$.

Shiso Modern Asian Kitchen, 19161 Sonoma Highway, Sonoma, 707-933-9331, shisorestaurant.com. Chef Ed Metcalfe cherry-picks items from various Asian cuisines, but with a special emphasis on Japanese dishes. His ingredients are wonderfully fresh and the vegetables are sourced from his own garden. There’s a well-filled-out list of sakes along with beer and wine. His chirashi (chef’s choice) may be the best way to go. It’s a unique restaurant with a scrumptious take on Asian food. Reviewed 12/28/14. $$

630 Park Steakhouse at the Graton Resort and Casino, 630 Park Court, Rohnert Park, 707-588-7115, gratonresortcasino.com. Here’s your big-time casino-style steakhouse. A 42-ounce prime T-bone for two is $120, a personal 20-ounce rib-eye is $54, and filet mignons start at $43 for the “petite” cut. The meat is as terrific as the prices portend, and the kitchen also serves up chicken and seafood, such as a 28-ounce Northern Australian lobster tail for $149. Side dishes of vegetables, potatoes and mac and cheese run around $10 each. Ah, g’wan. You only live once. Reviewed 12/29/13. $$$$

Sonoma lamb loin with fava beans, porcini mushrooms and spring garlic is served at Torc Restaurant in Napa. (Photo by Conner Jay)

Torc, 1140 Main St., Napa, 707- 252-3292, torcnapa.com. Chef Sean O’Toole cooks classic American and Californian dishes with refinement and elegance. His ingredients are impeccably good, and he uses them in a way that’s both thought-provoking and enjoyable. His impossibly tender slices of spring lamb, for instance, sit on a bed of shredded lamb shoulder mixed with bits of fresh mint. They come with small balls of fried dough filled with garlicky cream. The wine list is eclectic and ranges far beyond Napa Valley. Reviewed 6/15/14. $$-$$$$

Vignette Pizzeria, 6750 McKinley St., Sebastopol, 707-861-3897, vignette-pizzeria.com. Mark Hopper, a graduate of Thomas Keller’s operations, decided to go all-out to make classic Neapolitan pizzas at his 62-seat eatery in The Barlow center. He achieves his aim, and then some, because he has Sonoma produce to use as toppings and in his salads and appetizers. The result is spectacularly good pizzas, but leave your preconceptions about pizza at home and enjoy what he gives you. Reviewed 9/21/14. $$-$$$

zazu kitchen + farm, 6770 McKinley St., Sebastopol, 707-523-4814, zazukitchen.com. While many restaurants claim to cook farm-to-table, Duskie Estes and John Stewart take the concept to a new level at zazu, located in a spacious room in The Barlow center. They have a small farm at home where they raise animals, gather eggs and grow crops, and a kitchen garden by the restaurant, too. Stewart makes great bacon and salumi, Estes ferments vegetables, and the kitchen turns out American comfort food that’s impossibly tasty. Reviewed 9/15/13. $$$-$$$$

Biscuits are not Tacos: Taco Bell’s New Biscuit Taco

March 2015

By biteclub

Biscuits, by their very nature, are not tacos. They are fluffy and light, and crumbly if they’re done right. Tacos are pliable and dense, and not biscuits. So you see the conundrum in the idea of a Chicken Biscuit Taco released today by Taco Bell.

The new breakfast item, which replaces the waffle taco (which at least makes sense shape-wise), is an attempt by Taco Bell’s parent company, Yum! Brands, to continue to stay relevant in the competitive fast food breakfast market. With their sights firmly aimed at McDonald’s (the reigning breakfast giant), the advertising campaigning for the new menu item paint Egg McMuffins as bland and boring.

And boy, has it worked at garnering attention. As you can tell. (Hey, even the New York Times has an article.)

In the interest of culinary journalism, BiteClub, gave the Biscuit Taco a go. The choices included a fried chicken strip and taco “biscuit” with gravy and with jalapeño honey. After conclusive taste tests, the results were indisputable: This is not the fast food abomination you want to be wasting your calories and healthy cholesterol levels on.

The taco? More like a chewy flatbread. The chicken is coated in a Doritos-esque panko crust and — well all we can say is that no chicken should have to die to be made into this.

If you’ve gotta try one, go for the jalapeño honey, which in its cloyingness overpowers the other fried flavors.

Come on Taco Bell, you can do better. Or maybe you can’t. Either way, you’ve gotten our attention and maybe that was the whole point.

Open to Anything

March 2015

By Carey Sweet

Oso Restaurant’s “Mole Braised Lamb Tacos” include cabbage, creme fraiche, pickled vegetable salsa and cotija.

As chef David Bush prepared to open his OSO restaurant and lounge on the Sonoma Plaza, people kept asking the same, bothersome questions.

What type of food would it be? Was his passion to be a French chef? Italian? Or would he do high-end California cooking like he did in his previous job with St. Francis Winery in Santa Rosa?

They’re still asking him after OSO’s November 2014 opening.

Oso restaurant's executive chef David Bush's style is a shake-up for Sonoma, a town better known for its satisfying, if safer, Wine Country cuisine. — Oso restaurant’s executive chef David Bush’s style is a shake-up for Sonoma, a town better known for its satisfying, if safer, Wine Country cuisine.

“And I still can’t answer,” said Bush, who was the chef at Santa Rosa’s St. Francis Winery & Vineyards when diners who use the Open Table reservations service rated it America’s top eatery for 2013. “I don’t like to be boxed in. I mess around with a lot of different stuff, but then it comes down to whatever I’m craving. If I feel like bouillabaisse, it’s on the menu. Maybe I feel like Thai — I’ll do pork ribs with Thai chile and lime.”

Whatever it’s called, Bush’s style is a shake-up for Sonoma, a town better known for its satisfying, if safer, Wine Country cuisine. At OSO, expect the unexpected, with statements ranging from the late-night hours (until 11 weekdays and midnight on weekends) and offbeat dishes (shiitake and kombu-cured salmon with tamari-soaked egg, Serrano ham, tobiko, basil and a slick of sweet Japanese Kewpie mayonnaise), to a 21-and-over-only policy (because OSO is licensed as a tavern).

The "Raw Fish of the Day" is the chef's selection. This day it included cucumbers and blood oranges. — The “Raw Fish of the Day” is the chef’s selection. This day it included cucumbers and blood oranges.

Part of the fun for Bush is in riffing on classics. Many restaurants offer shrimp cocktail, for example, but Bush lightly pickles the seafood and presents it chilled, with a chop of kale and spiced peanut slaw doctored with tomato-horseradish aioli. It’s a riveting zip of sweet, sour and fire.

“It’s a risk, but being different can fill a new niche,” he said. And his dining audience seems to agree. The dark, narrow, 50-seat space is loud with a boisterous bar vibe, yet still, the boomer Sonoma set mingles with the 20-somethings, coming together over an updated Moscow Mule cocktail of cinnamon-spiked Han Soju splashed with ginger beer and lime.

For spring, Bush dreams of favas and peas, baby onions and ramps. “Fresh, young and green,” he said. “Anything I can get my hands on.” It’s anyone’s guess what he will create with them.

CLOSED: Himalayan Cafe and Grill

March 2015

By biteclub

Palak paneer at Himalayan Cafe & Grill in Santa Rosa

CLOSED
Namaste, my little pakora.

I dropped by this new strip-mall Indian/Himalayan restaurant on Mendocino Avenue about a month ago, and was really impressed. Not surprisingly, since Himalayan Cafe & Grill was a favorite of mine when they were located in Windsor several years ago.

What was a depressing steam table of meh biryani and tikka masala has been transformed into a cozy little eatery with wood tables and some spectacular Indian food. Top picks include lentil soup (dal), which is rich and flavorful rather than it’s usually watery counterpart; fresh butter naan, exotically spiced biryani (rice with dried fruits and meat), saag paneer (fresh cheese in creamy spinach sauce) and my surprise favorite, tofu chili. Stir fried tofu is punched up with red onions, peppers, spices and a touch of heat.

Tofu chili at Himalayan Cafe & Grill in Santa Rosa

The only miss: Very tough cubes of chicken in our Tikka Masala. We’re willing to forgive and forget, however, since the other dishes were so impressive.

1880 Mendocino Ave, Suite D, Santa Rosa, himalayancatering.com Open for lunch and dinner, but closed Sunday.

daal at Tofu chili at Himalayan Cafe & Grill in Santa Rosa — daal at Himalayan Cafe & Grill in Santa Rosa

Noble Spoon features Chef John Ash’s Recipes

March 2015

By biteclub

Noble Spoon's pork cassoulet, inspired by a recipe from Chef John Ash — Noble Spoon’s pork cassoulet, inspired by a recipe from Chef John Ash

I’m obsessed with Chef John Ash’s pork and sweet potato cassoulet. Which I can now eat in my car. Or my office. Or standing over the sink in my kitchen.

Pre-packaged and ready for the microwave, its just one of the new gourmet entrees from The Noble Spoon. What may surprise you, other than the fact that John Ash has several signature dishes in the line, is that these are made in the kitchens of The Council on Aging’s Meals on Wheels program, and ALL proceeds from the meals (which run around $7) support nutritional programs for local seniors.

Other entrees include Pasta al la Norma (a garlicky eggplant pasta dish), Chicken Melitzana (from Ash’s Culinary Birds cookbook), chicken carbonara with rigatoni and comfort foods like pot roast, chicken enchiladas and meatloaf.

They’re available in the ready-foods area of a number of local grocers in Sonoma and Marin, including G&G, Pacific Market, Molsberry and Big John’s along with Santa Rosa Safeway stores. So if you see me with a sad face at the grocery store, it’s probably because they’ve run out of cassoulet, again. Watch their Facebook page (facebook.com/TheNobleSpoon) for details on tastings at local markets.

Seed on the Go

March 2015

By biteclub

Jessica Chastain buys her Santa Rosa mom a vegan food truck

Here’s the 411 on Seed on the Go…

SHOCKER…Jessica Chastain’s mom has a food truck in Santa Rosa??

So, BiteClub’s known about Jerri Hastey’s vegan/raw foods cooking for years. She once had a small restaurant called Seed in the SOFA area.

But we missed the part where Hastey was actress (and Academy Award nominee) Jessica Chastain’s madre. With recent appearances on Ellen and a blurb in People Magazine, the actress has been touting her mom’s new food truck, Seed on the Go from coast to coast. And that’s making for some pretty curious Sonoma County folks who’ve been catching Hastey at the Saturday Farmer’s Market at the Santa Rosa Veteran’s Building and hiring her for catering gigs.

With dishes like white truffle risotto with asparagus, tofu Benedict, and “sea cakes” with lemon chive aioli, and the much-touted Chia Seed Parfait, Seed on the Go is more than just sprouts and veggie burgers.

With Amy’s Kitchen about to open a vegetarian fast food restaurant, more and more vegan-friendly menus (see last week’s column online), Hastey is hitting a healthy food trend that’s getting major traction. You can keep tabs on the truck by visiting their Facebook page at facebook.com/seedonthego.

CLOSED Namaste, my little pakora.

CLOSED
Namaste, my little pakora.