Midcentury lovers have something to swoon over on Healdsburg’s Chalk Hill Road: A 3-bedroom, 2-bath 1960s home is for sale for $1,895,000.
A steeply pitched roof adds dramatic style to the 1,900-square-foot home, which, according to the listing, was designed in the spirit of Argentine architect Eduardo Catalano. Catalano is famous for the iconic Raleigh House in North Carolina, which was built in 1954 and featured a 4,000-square-foot hyperbolic paraboloid roof (a warped roof similar in shape to a shoehorn or a Pringles potato chip). Similar roofs can be seen on many midcentury buildings; the roof on the Healdsburg home is made out of concrete, which should provide some fire resistant properties.
The home on Chalk Hill Road has floor-to-ceiling, two-story windows that allow for a seamless transition between the indoors and outdoors and showcase the mature oaks on the property. Daylight floods the living space, which connects to the kitchen. At night, the moon and stars can be seen through the windows.
Midcentury design elements can be found throughout the home, like Nelson Bubble lamps, a sizable wall tapestry and a rounded, stainless wood-burning stove. The deck, which overlooks west Sonoma County, has room for several seating areas and the property’s 3.2 acres allow space for a pool, a sizable garden and has space for pets to roam (there’s a built in dog run). A forest borders the property, along with a vineyard, so the home’s residents can enjoy the views just beyond the property line. There’s also a permanent outdoor tent for an at-home glamping experience—a good option for outdoor-loving guests.
This home at 8700 Chalk Hill Road is listed by Ryan Anderton with Sonoma Realty Group, 707-244-7181, sonomarealtygroup.com
A turn-of-the-century 2-bedroom, 2-bathroom Victorian on Sebastopol’s Main Street is currently listed (and under contract) for $979,000.
The home, which is also zoned for commercial use, was built in 1900 and has been carefully updated and modernized. The narrow siding is in great shape and shines brightly in teal paint. All of the old-school charm remains: the wrap-around porch, the round scalloping in the gables, the large stairway approach to the door.
The interior details of the 1372-square-foot home reflect current design trends. Farmhouse favorite shiplap, for example, makes an appearance inside the home, which boasts high ceilings and has been outfitted with modern moldings and trims. Meanwhile, the traditional ornamental style of Victorian homes is referenced in ornate crystal chandeliers. The kitchen has been upgraded with modern appliances and boasts a more transitional style in the cabinets and trims.
In the bathroom, modern tiles and angular fixtures blend well with more traditional-looking cabinets. An oversized Hokusai wave decal above the tub illustrates that vintage decor and modern design can happily inhabit the same home.
Outdoors, a newly-built deck with a side wall is a blank canvas for a seating area and some hanging plants. The large yard includes garden beds, a chicken coop and workshop area.
While the beauty of living in a historic home often comes with some practical inconveniences, like outdated heating and electrical systems, that’s not the case here. According to listing agent Adam Menconi, the duct work has been covered, the floors have radiant heat, and the electrical system has been updated from a knob and tube system. Solar panels have been added to the property, so the new owners can enjoy 19th century aesthetics with 21st century energy efficiency.
Click through the above gallery to take a look inside the home.
This home at 660 South Main Street in Sebastopol is listed with Adam Menconi with Prosper Real Estate, 707-396-2687, adam@prospermoves.com, prospermoves.com
A tray full of ribs and brisket and all the fixings of Austin’s Southern Smoke BBQ at Old Possum Brewing Co. in Santa Rosa. (Erik Castro/for Sonoma Magazine)
From blister-charred brisket and tri-tip to barbacoa tacos from Mexico, Sonoma’s BBQ traditions run wide and deep. Here’s our guide to the county’s top spots. Plus, meet the Mississippi-raised local pitmaster whose pulled pork, ribs, and sides stack up against the very best.
Click through the above gallery for must-try barbecue dishes.
The brisket emerges from the smoker, glistening with a rich cloak of melty fat that peeks out from beneath charred edges. The aroma is mouthwatering, and Santa Rosa pitmaster Kris Austin handles the bundle gently, almost as if cradling a newborn. It’s been nearly 24 hours since Austin handpicked the slab of heritage beef, raised locally by rancher Joe Matos. By now, the brisket’s been slow-smoked some eight hours over oak and almond wood, then rested in a warming cabinet for another 12 hours before being sliced, thickly and generously, for the plate.
All in all, it’s a pilgrimage—and one for the chef, too. Born in Memphis, Tennessee, and raised in rural Abbeville, Mississippi, pitmaster Kris Austin launched Austin’s Southern Smoke BBQ in Santa Rosa in 2020. But he started working around the family BBQ pit when he was just 10 years old.
“Backyard barbecue was one of those things that our family always had around, because that’s how we spent time together,” says Austin. “Thanksgiving and Christmas and Sunday dinners were the only real indoor meals we’d eat.”
Kris Austin of Austin’s Southern Smoke BBQ at Old Possum Brewing Co. in Santa Rosa. (Erik Castro/for Sonoma Magazine)
Working with a 55-gallon metal barrel they’d cut in half to make a drum grill and smoker, the family soaked up the ritual of the ‘cue. Austin’s grandfather worked as a cattleman, and his father raised hogs and chickens. For larger cuts, they built a 10-foot-by-10-foot smokehouse with an attachment to hold local oak and pecan logs.
But it was that soot-blackened drum smoker that Austin’s family looked forward to gathering around. “We used that thing for years, until the bottom burned out of it,” Austin says. “Then we made a new one and started all over again.”
Often enough, all it took was someone to announce they were hungry for the grandparents to call everyone over to their house for a big, impromptu burger party, with patties plopped on homemade buns that were always in the pantry.
“The only thing we went to the store for was milk, flour, and sugar,” Austin recalls. He caught catfish, and the family grew all their own vegetables. It never occurred to them to sell their fare, no matter how much they cooked. “We just had a big enough family, so that’s what we did for leisure activities. We were always together, and it was always one of those things you could count on.”
All that changed when Austin won a college football scholarship to William Penn University in Iowa. He met his wife on campus—and, lucky for us, she was born in Sonoma County. The couple moved to Sonoma in 2012, and Austin began working as a personal trainer. “I was kind of over the slowness of Southern life, and I was ready for something new,” he says. “I got to travel to a lot of different cities, see the pace and see the people, and broaden my horizons. And I would always eat barbecue everywhere I went.”
He bought his own 55-gallon drum from Walmart, later upgrading to a professional oset smoker, stoking his love of backyard flame between working with fitness clients. One day, a client asked him if he would cater a barbecue party for her 50th birthday. “I was like, ‘I don’t know if I want to put myself on that kind of a scale just yet,’” he says. “She said, ‘It’s not going to be that many of us, maybe 30 or 40 people,’ and talked me into it.”
The client loved his food, and he had a blast.
“It was a hustle and pressure, but I’m a people person, so it was great being around their intimate family, back in that environment with such camaraderie.”
Locally cured oak and almond wood create the smoke. (Erik Castro/for Sonoma Magazine)
Austin keeps the seasonings simple: granulated garlic, salt, and pepper. (Erik Castro/for Sonoma Magazine)
After his personal training work slowed during the pandemic, Austin doubled down on BBQ. He got business guidance from friends, including Peter White of Sugo Trattoria in Petaluma and Maraline Olson of Screamin’ Mimi’s in Sebastopol, and started catering out of his Santa Rosa home. Last summer, he opened a pop-up at Old Possum Brewing, where he built quite a following.
This spring, he left the brewery, taking his growing business to weekly markets in Santa Rosa and Windsor. He’s also planning to teach barbecue classes and cater more events with a new custom trailer set to arrive in the fall.
There’s a real art to shaping the brisket for the smoker, explains Austin. “Aerodynamic, like a bullet. Not too thick, not too thin, to cook very evenly.” He trims the brisket to a quarter-inch of fat, then massages in salt and pepper, so the umami flavor shines.
Coaxing exquisite tenderness, just a gentle hint of smoky flavor, and that perfect pink ring is an all-day aair, as Austin nudges the temperatures up or down, depending on the mix of meats sharing the 8-foot-by-2.5foot G Stacks smoker.
Between hours of shoveling wood and ash, Austin crafts side dishes from scratch: sweet, crackly-crust cornbread, savory collard greens dotted with smoked turkey, fries, pickled onions, and coleslaw. He also makes two kinds of sauces: a sweet heat of vinegar, ketchup, molasses, brown sugar, and spices, plus a vinegar-mayo based white sauce that turns pinkish with smoked paprika.
It may be 11 p.m. before the brisket is ready.
“If I probe the meat and it feels tender, I pull it,” he says. “I read the temperature sometimes, but I can feel and understand texture. I know a lot of people think it’s crazy, but touching it is the old way for a lot of the great pitmasters out there. I’m not scarred up, but roughed up, for sure. It takes a lot of time to build up callouses on your hands so you can feel it without being in excruciating pain—fresh skin and nerves, yeah.”
A full rack of ribs, straight from the smoker, glistening with melted fat. (Erik Castro/for Sonoma Magazine)
Collard greens by Kris Austin of Austin’s Southern Smoke BBQ. (Erik Castro/for Sonoma Magazine)Kris Austin of Austin’s Southern Smoke BBQ. (Erik Castro/for Sonoma Magazine)
Finally, he goes home, waking at 6:30 the next day to get his children to school, before returning to work. Then, and only then, is the meat ready to be sliced, cut into slabs, pulled, or chopped.
“Coming into the kitchen on a Saturday, my mother and grandmother would always be cooking dishes to be ready for Sunday dinner, because they always had the notion that the flavors meld and become more powerful,” he explains. “They have time to sit and love on each other.”
He mops a trace of sweat from his forehead, and smiles.
“It’s those traditions I like to keep going—and bring that Southern love to Sonoma County.”
Austin’s Southern Smoke BBQ
At the Wednesday Night Market in downtown Santa Rosa, the Friday Night Live street fair in Cloverdale, and occasional Thursday farmers markets in Windsor. Plus pop-ups at the Veterans Memorial Building in Santa Rosa on July 15, July 29, and August 26— first come, first served.
Check @austins_smoke_bbq on Instagram or austinssouthernsmokebbq.com.
More Outstanding Local ‘Cue
Barbecue To Groove To–BBQ Smokehouse Bistro
Owner-Pitmaster: Larry Vito
Must try: The four meat platter with 20-hour smoked Texas beef brisket, 18-hour smoked North Carolina pulled pork, Southern Louisiana smoked chicken thighs, and 7-hour smoked, spiced, Memphis pork ribs. Layer on the sauces, too—the “original,” a thin, tomato-y brew kicked up with vinegar, soy sauce, Worcestershire and a touch of anchovy; the vinegar-tangy North Carolina sauce; or hotsweet mustard.
More: Chef Vito trained at the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, was friends with James Beard, and worked at top San Francisco restaurants. But his real love is barbecue, so now he dedicates his time to an industrial smoker parked outside his tiny kitchen, stocking it with apple, oak and nut wood and coaxing out meats imbued with a ruby hue and deep smoke flavor. There’s live music most weekends, including Michael B. Serious, a Sebastopol favorite.
Must Try: The new Bourdain sandwich, in honor of culinary god Anthony Bourdain: slow ‘n’ low smoked Texas-style brisket on a toasted ciabatta bun with ham, pepper jack, arugula, chimichurri, and “crime sauce,” a spicy blend of mayo, ketchup, mustard, garlic, chopped pickles, and horseradish.
More: The roadhouse structure welcomes with a saloon interior and funky, country-charm décor, and the occasional visit by horseback riders or neighboring goats. This is fine-dining barbecue from a chef who crafts his fare with Latin American and African accents. The patio’s various mesquite and oak-fired Argentine grills, and hickory fueled smokers send forth succulent stuff like Duroc heritage breed pulled pork shoulder, pork spare ribs, and a killer hand-ground, 6-ounce, all-natural Angus brisket and chuck patty, towering with shredded iceberg, pickles, smoked and grilled onions, a house cheese blend (American, jack, and cheddar), and crime sauce on a toasted Portuguese bun.
Must Try: Beef short ribs (note: get there early—they sells fast!)
More: Crowds cheer when the shiny black, “Smoky Goodness” food truck pulls up for popups at breweries and events. Brisket, ribs, and pork boast charcoal-black exteriors and gorgeous, pink insides. Grab specials, if you’re lucky, like the El Chicano, a Southern-style take on the Cubano sandwich, layering smoked brisket, pepper jack cheese, house made pickled onions, and classic yellow mustard stacked on a Franco American hoagie roll.
Check the website for daily/weekly pop-up locations. 707-595-7427, camachosbbq.com
‘Cue With Ocean Views–Ginochio’s Kitchen
Owners-Pitmasters: The Ginochio family
Must Try: The Moo Sandwich, a messy joy with mounds of 14-hour, cherry-wood smoked, barbecue sauce-mopped brisket¤on a toasted French roll with lettuce, onion, and tomato.
More: The Ginochios are Italian, but they are known for their first-rate Texas-style barbecue. The patio’s open roof and big windows allow for spectacular views of marina boats and, occasionally, fish-stealing seals.
Must Try: The Maui Mash of smoked pulled pork and peach barbecue sauce with diced pineapple and pickled onions on a bed of kettle chips.
More: Look for the lime green and chrome truck parked next to the PeeWee Golf & Arcade. It’s pure, piggy happiness here, with gnaw-off-the-bone pork ribs, and pulled pork sandwiches topped with all kinds of goodness. Try the Volcano, with homemade jalapeño pepper jelly, crispy onions, and sriracha aioli, or the “Viet-Nom, Nom, Nom” of pickled daikon, carrot, and garliccilantro aioli. Sometimes there’s smoked pork belly, too.
Must Try: The Hawaiian BBQ plate, with dry-rubbed, 6-hour smoked baby back ribs, plus teriyaki beef and chicken, served with steamed rice, macaroni salad and braised cabbage.
More: A new Southern Pride smoker was installed this year, turning out tender brined chicken, tri-tip, linguiça sausage, and the signature ribs. Mix it up with housemade sauces, such as tangy-sweet, Memphis smoky-savory, and Cajun hotspicy.
500 East Cotati Ave., Cotati. 707-242-3383, jadedtoad.com
Feeding The Family–Kinsmoke
Owners-Pitmasters: JC Adams and Brad Barmore
Must Try: “The Whole Fam Damily” combo, loaded with a full rack of St. Louis style ribs, half a chicken, a half-pound homemade hot link, a half-pound Texas link, a half-pound of pulled pork shoulder, and 1 pound combo cut brisket (a mix of lean and gloriously fatty meat), plus your choice of eight sides, including apple-horseradish slaw, spiced sweet potato tots, and Cajun hush puppies.
More: Follow the scent of flamefed California oak and cherry wood to the big barbecue pit out back, then make your way inside for a feast. The smoke-kissed meat comes unadorned—choose from delicious sauces like zingy North Carolina vinegar, gutsy South Carolina mustard, Hellfire, Bourbon Dijon, and Alabama white.
304 Center St., Healdsburg. 707-473-8440, kinsmoke.com
Barbecue chicken with a salad and curry rice at Red Bee BBQ in Santa Rosa. (Conner Jay/The Press Democrat)
Asian Fusion ‘Cue–Red Bee BBQ
Owner-Pitmaster: Geer Li
Must Try: The large combo plate of spicy pulled chicken and rustred, Chinese-style barbecue pork. It’s dressed with stir-fried Thai chile peppers and fiery-sweet, chunky red chile sauce, and comes with macaroni salad and fried or white rice.
More: Chef Li comes from Beijing, China, and when asked what’s in the housemade meat marinade and sauces, replies, “chiles and a whole lot of things.” These meats are less about subtle smoke, and more about the vibrant seasonings. Big portions (1/3 pound) of brisket, pork shoulder, or St. Louis ribs slathered with a sweet glaze. It all works deliciously.
750 Stony Point Road, Santa Rosa. 707-541-6536. Also 8970 Brooks Road S., Windsor. 707-836-4099, redbeebbq.com
Southern-Style Salads–Sweet T’s Restaurant + Bar
Owners: Dennis and Ann Tussey; Pitmaster: George Ah Chin
Must Try: The house salad, with a toss of organic mixed greens, romaine, tomatoes, cucumbers, carrots, cheddar, red onion, crostini, and spicy jalapeño buttermilk dressing, crowned in your choice of quarter-pound of garlic-rubbed brisket, pulled pork, pulled chicken or tri-tip, or blackened chicken, shrimp, salmon filletor catfish.
More: Meats emerge juicy, rimmed in fuchsia-pink after a leisurely time in the Southern Pride smoker, and the cooks work wonders with the fryer and skillets, too. Salads are fresh and filling, including a loaded Caesar, spinach salad topped with paprika-cayenne ribs pulled from the bone, and mixed greens with eggs, cheddar, and fried chicken.
Regional, Radical and Rarified Tastes — War Pigs BBQ
Owner-Pitmaster: Larry Hillix
Must Try: The “Porky McPorkeson” pulled pork sandwich, topped with a housemade beef hot link, slightly sweet slaw, and tart pickles on a soft, squishy bun to soak up the tangy sauce.
More: This mobile smoker popup offers it all—blister-charred Texas style brisket, California style chicken and tri-tip, Kansas City-style pork ribs, Mexican style barbacoa tacos, smoked fried chicken, and vegetarian smoked mushroom tacos with chile sauce. The special blend of spices and rubs is inspired by the acclaimed Gary Park of G’s Slow Smoked BBQ in Florida.
Check the website for daily/weekly pop-up locations. 707-508-5551, bbqhustlers.com
Everett & Jones BBQ is opening at the Graton Resort & Casino in Rohnert Park. (Shamar Cotton / Instagram)
And some big BBQ news:
Everett and Jones BBQ, a mainstay of Oakland’s barbecue culture since 1973, is opening at Graton Resort & Casino later this summer. It’s the local chain’s first location outside the East Bay—and if you love BBQ like we do, you’re going to want to check it out. eandjbbq.com
Guests enjoying cold drinks on the patio overlooking the Russian River at Stumptown Brewery in Guerneville, Calif., on April 20, 2013. (Alvin Jornada / The Press Democrat)
Wine Country is also beer country — with plenty of local brews and outdoor patios to park your caboose and sip an IPA or two. Click through the above gallery for six of our favorite beer gardens in Sonoma County.
The hardworking trio behind Barber Lee Spirits in Petaluma makes spirits they like to drink. Apparently they have good taste, because the oldest and largest spirits competition in the world just declared Barber Lee’s Absinthe Blanche the best absinthe in the world.
The San Francisco World Spirits Competition, founded in 2000 and featuring entries from around the globe, awarded Barber Lee’s Absinthe Blanche “Best of Class” at its 2022 awards gala held at the Ritz Carlton in San Francisco.
Barber Lee Spirits’ Absinthe Blanche was awarded ‘Best of Class’ by the San Francisco World Spirits Competition (SFWSC). (Courtesy of Barber Lee Spirits)
“It’s a huge deal,” said Lorraine Barber, co-owner of three-year-old, family-run distillery in Petaluma. “It lets a really broad market know about our tiny, grain-to-glass production. It helps to boost our energy and boost awareness of our brand.”
The 2022 San Francisco World Spirits Competition attracted almost 5,000 entries. Blind taste tests were conducted by more than 60 judges (bartenders, bar owners, educators, and more) to determine the winners. In addition to Best of Class and Best in Show, spirits also received double gold, gold, silver and bronze awards.
To make its absinthe, Barber Lee triple distills white wine, creating a white brandy base. This process adds sweetness to counteract the bitterness typically associated with the spirit. Eight organic herbs, including wormwood, are then added to the still to steep before the spirit is distilled one final time. The result is a 130 proof absinthe with 65% alcohol.
“If you try our absinthe it’s like Good & Plenty [licorice candy] on the head. It’s anise candy,” said Barber.
Barber Lee Spirits is located in downtown Petaluma. (Courtesy of Barber Lee Spirits)
The Absinthe Blanche wasn’t the only Barber Lee spirit to catch the judges’ attention — the distillery’s Apple Brandy won double gold.
To craft their brandy, Barber Lee first makes cider from fresh-pressed Gravenstein apples from Sebastopol and then distills it and ages it for at least one year in new charred American oak. The distillery’s Single Malt Rye Whiskey and Heirloom Corn Bourbon both earned silver awards in the competition.
“It really puts some wind under our wings to just keep doing what we are doing,” said Barber.
Barber Lee Spirits’ downtown Petaluma tasting room is open Thursday through Sunday. 120 Washington St., Petaluma, 707-971-7107, barberleespirits.com
Oaxacan-style Molotes from Lucha Sabina food truck in Roseland. (Courtesy of Lucha Sabina)
Here are the latest news from Sonoma County’s dining scene.
The Nectary on the Move
The Nectary, those power juicers ready to rev up your morning, have moved from their location at The Barlow in Sebastopol to 7300 Healdsburg Ave. in Sebastopol.
If you’ve never been, it’s a fascinating trip down the rabbit hole of superfoods, teas, medicinal mushrooms (of the non-psychoactive type), nut milks, raw food and drinks that will put your morning green smoothie to shame.
A new favorite: Into the Wild Blue Yonder smoothie bowl is as pretty to look at as it is to eat, stockpiled with fruit, chia seeds, cashew mylk and ginger and colored with Blue Majik spirulina.
Open 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. daily, 707-829-2697, thenectary.net. Also at 312 Center St., Healdsburg, 707-473-0677.
Mitote Food Park Opens
The long-awaited Mitote Food Park in Roseland has officially opened, now featuring beer, wine and Mexican-inspired cocktails along with food trucks including Lucha Sabina and Maria Machetes. One note: The Charro Negro seafood food truck that’s a Mitote standby is on hiatus as Chef Rodrigo Mendoza prepares to open Goldfinch in Sebastopol.
A ribbon-cutting celebration with sample bites from food trucks will take place 4-6 p.m. July 14. 665 Sebastopol Road, Santa Rosa. Facebook.com/mitotefoodpark
Caldo de Chamorro de Borrego with mushroom from Lucha Sabina in Roseland’s Mitote Food Park. (Courtesy of Lucha Sabina)Tacos with mole at Maria Machetes in Roseland’s Mitote Food Park. (Heather Irwin/Sonoma Magazine)
Goldfinch Replaces K&L Bistro
Goldfinch is replacing K & L Bistro, which closed in May. Owners of The Livery, a forthcoming event, coworking space and food hall, purchased the longtime bistro and hope to open the restaurant this fall. According to Chef Rodrigo Mendoza, the menu will focus on plant-based ingredients with meat as a “condiment.” Stay tuned for more details.
Howard Station Cafe in Occidental has officially hit middle age! A favorite brunch spot on the way to the coast, the family-owned restaurant serves up egg-cellent omelets, buttermilk pancakes and Smash burgers. Plus, the patio is Fido-friendly and they have a secret dog menu.
Open from 7:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. Friday through Wednesday (closed Thursday). 3611 Bohemian Highway, Occidental, 707-874-2838, howardstationcafe.com
(From front) The original Eggs Benedict, the Howard’s Egg Sandwich, the Howard’s Club sandwich, freshly squeezed orange juice and a cappuccino at the Howard Station Cafe in Occidental. (Beth Schlanker/Sonoma Magazine)The Belgian waffle with strawberries and cream, the original Eggs Benedict, freshly squeezed orange juice and a cappuccino at the Howard Station Cafe. (Beth Schlanker/Sonoma Magazine)
Zee’s Diner to Reopen as Brothers Cafe
The former Zee’s Diner is slated to reopen later this summer in west Santa Rosa as a breakfast-to-dinner diner. Javier and Jorge Borges, formerly of Hole in the Wall Cafe in Sebastopol, are opening their own restaurant at the oft-changing space. More details as the space gets closer to opening.
Hectic at work and nonstop at home? It’s time to pencil in a weekend with your besties. These four Sonoma hotels have everything you need for a girls getaway. Pair your stay with winery visits, farm-to-fork cuisine, serene spas and serious shopping and your ladies retreat will be one for the books. Click through the above gallery for details.
A vegan sheet pan pizza called “Korean BBQ Pulled Shrooms” has shredded trumpet mushrooms, slow cooked Korean barbecue sauce, red onion and chilies, at Magdelena’s Savories & Sweets, in Petaluma, Calif., on Saturday, February 19, 2022. (Photo by Darryl Bush / For The Press Democrat)
Let’s just get this out of the way up front: I am not a vegan. I’ve often thought that if some medical condition suddenly rendered me lactose intolerant, cheese is what I would miss the most. I mean, how could I ever enjoy pizza again without the creamy goodness of dairy mozzarella?
The vegan pizzas of my imagination were always lackluster affairs, smeared with tomato sauce and halfheartedly dotted with sad, naked mushrooms longing for the comfort of a mozzarella blanket. Then I began seeing some truly intriguing vegan options on restaurant menus all over Sonoma County, and my skepticism turned to curiosity. Could these plant-based pizzas actually satisfy my cravings?
Hell yes, as it turns out. Known for their creativity and devotion to fresh, local ingredients, Sonoma County chefs are tossing and topping specialty vegan pies that everyone can love. The secret, pizzaiolos say, is in choosing ingredients with intention and finding the right balance of tastes and textures.
“My philosophy with all of the food that I make is that it’s packed with flavor and that there’s consideration for sweet, fat and acid,” says Greta Canton, owner of Magdelena’s Savories & Sweets in Petaluma. “When you experience it, you won’t miss anything.”
Rather than opting for widely available vegan cheeses and meats, Canton seeks out small producers that offer more interesting options. “I like vegan cheese, but it can have a strong flavor that can be overpowering,” she says. To ensure balance, she chooses milder-tasting cheeses that won’t steal the show.
Rob Larman, chef-owner at il Fuoco in Sonoma, likes to complement the neutral profile of local Miyoko’s mozzarella with bold toppings. “I try to punch up the flavors with roasted vegetables,” he says, “like Romanesco with Calabrian chili.”
While approaches may vary, the results are surprisingly—at least to this omnivore—delightful. Read on to learn about five of our favorite vegan pizza destinations across the county.
Il Fuoco, Sonoma
Chef-owner Rob Larman converted his Cochon Volant barbecue restaurant to a wood-fired pizza joint in 2021. Along with traditional Italian-style pies, il Fuoco features a rotating vegan special that varies by season. The current offering is a powerhouse combination of Miyoko’s mozzarella, caramelized onions, broccolini, roasted Romanesco and Calabrian chili—all perched on a bubbly Neapolitan crust. This fall, look for a vegan pumpkin pizza with roasted onion and fennel.
(Note: Magdelena’s permanently closed in 2023, though it now offers catering.) Opened in early 2022 on Petaluma’s east side, this vegan and vegetarian café has wowed patrons with its satisfying sheet pan pizzas. Owner Greta Canton, a vegetarian for more than 30 years, knows just how to strike the right balance of flavors and textures for mind-blowing results. We love the Buffalo Cauliflower Blue for its chunky veggies and creamy ranch and blue cheese sauce. The Black Sheep Greek is a meaty-tasting medley of vegan lamb, housemade feta, roasted red pepper and calamata olives.
Rosso has been cooking up some of Sonoma County’s best Neapolitan-style pizzas since 2007, so it’s no surprise that the pizzeria makes an exceptional plant-based pie. The Vegan Veggie starts with a base of Rosso’s chewy, wood-fired crust, housemade tomato sauce and shaved garlic, then takes the experience to the next level with vegan mozzarella, kale-pistachio pistou, roasted Roma tomatoes, fried fingerling potatoes and spring onions.
Newly opened in downtown Forestville, Sonoma Pizza Company has already gained a following for its blistered-crust, Neapolitan pizzas. The restaurant offers vegan options for all of its signature pizzas, featuring Miyoko’s mozzarella, Happy Little Plants pepperoni and Beyond Meat sausage. Try the bright and savory Broccolini & Lemon pizza studded with wood-fired broccolini, charred Meyer lemon confit, spring onion, slow cooked garlic confit and Espelette pepper.
Wild Goat founder Nancy De Lorenzo recently sold the popular downtown café to Risibisi longtime general manager Jacob Gamba, but thankfully, the concept and menu will remain the same. That’s great news for fans of The Pearl, the menu’s staple vegan pie. A longtime vegan, De Lorenzo lovingly developed this thin-crust, wood-fired pizza to suit her own discerning tastes, combining tomato sauce, mozzarella, sausage, fennel pollen, mushrooms, caramelized red pearl onions, pepperoncini and basil. The key to its success is fennel pollen, which makes the vegan sausage taste like the real deal.
Have you watched “The Bear” on Hulu? If you’re in any way associated with or interested in the restaurant world, the answer is probably a resounding, Yes Chef! The FX drama about a young cook, his dysfunctional family and a deteriorating restaurant is an emotional roller coaster of addiction, psychosis, screaming and Hail Mary saves.
In other words, pretty much #restaurantlife.
The Bear on Hulu. Courtesy FX
The eight-episode series tells the story of fine-dining chef Carmen “Carmy” Berzatto (played by Jeremy Allen White) who returns to Chicago to run his family’s lowbrow deli and sandwich shop after the death of his brother. A James Beard Award winner fresh from stints at some of the world’s best restaurants — The French Laundry, NOMA and Eleven Madison Avenue, Carmy suddenly finds himself slinging greasy beef subs next to a cast of flawed but lovable characters.
Real-life chef Matty Matheson plays Fak, a foul-mouthed handyman and aspiring chef. Liza Colon Zayas is the scheming but under-appreciated Tina; Ebon Moss Bachrach (Richie) creates unnecessary drama at every turn; and Ayo Edebiri (Sydney) gives a winning performance as a struggling young sous chef with more talent than the entire kitchen staff combined.
The series is an unflinching look at the unsexy, unappreciated work of running a mom-and-pop restaurant that will cure anyone of their food service fantasies. But it’s also a window into the passion that makes chefs and restaurateurs persist, despite having to deal with shady purveyors, angry customers and staff quitting mid-service.
Viewers will also pick up kitchen terms like “behind,” “hands,” “all day,” and “brigade,” and learn what a walk-in and speed racks are, and why the title “Chef” is essential. Knife skills are impressive, with whole onions brunoise cut in seconds, and there’s a heaping helping of back-biting, bloody fingers and equal-opportunity humiliation.
Overall, “The Bear” is a poignant portrayal of restaurant life, where kitchen hierarchies, the challenges of being a woman in food service, addiction, drug abuse and the chaos of life behind the counter are served up hot.
All episodes of The Bear (Season One) now streaming on Hulu.
Bacon Cheeseburger, Dirty Fries with Al Pastor and “Corn” Dog with elote at Buns Only food truck. (Heather Irwin/Sonoma Magazine)
Lila Mathia runs a tight ship, or in her case, a 25-foot food truck. Her mobile business, Lila’s Streetside Eats, is currently parked, as it often is, in front of Parliament Brewing Company in Rohnert Park. She has less than one hour to finish baking her hand pies, warm the pulled pork for nachos, and make sure the hot pastrami Reuben dip is nice and gooey. Hungry beer drinkers are already knocking on the truck window asking when the food will be ready.
“We open at one o’clock,” she says brightly but firmly, closing the window and getting back to work.
Inside the gleaming stainless steel galley kitchen, Mathia and her son, Jake, do a graceful dance as they each attend their post in preparation for the onslaught. The generator whirs into action, ovens are turned on, and pilot lights lit. It’s meltingly hot, and there’s always the potential things could, well, quite literally blow up if something goes wrong.
All that, and an impatient line is already forming outside. Welcome to food truck life. The faint of heart need not apply.
Guests enjoy live music and food options from several trucks on Saturday nights at The Block. (Beth Schlanker/The Press Democrat)
Sharing the summertime vibe at The Block in Petaluma. (Beth Schlanker/The Press Democrat)
Mathia is part of a new wave of mobile food businesses buoyed by the pandemic. Their social distancing friendly format and comforting, calories-be-damned menus were welcome respite from long days at home over the past two years. And now that many are out exploring the world again, their flexible, mobile offerings are even more in demand.
“It’s been a great symbiotic relationship for all of us,” says Adam Bosch, Parliament’s co-owner. A rotating lineup of trucks, including Lila’s Streetside Eats, Tacos San Juan, and War Pigs BBQ, set up outside his small brewery. “We sell more beer because there’s food. They sell more food because there is beer,” Bosch says. “We didn’t want just the same food trucks, but a rotating lineup on different days so customers could try different types of food.”
While farmers markets and breweries have always been welcoming spots to pull up to, the trucks have also been welcomed at several new food parks in the county, like the Mitote Food Park in Roseland, the Bacchus Landing tasting room collective in Healdsburg, and The Block in Petaluma. There are also burgeoning markets like The Yard in Petaluma and Santa Rosa’s SoCo After Hours. Businesses like Lila’s Streetside Eats are now booked for months in advance with a rotating lineup of requests. “We’ve already got weddings in 2023,” said Mathias, who launched her truck in 2019.
Adobo fries prepared at Adobos ’N More’s famous adobo fries. (Beth Schlanker/The Press Democrat)
Prepping orders on a busy night at Adobos ’N More. (Beth Schlanker/The Press Democrat)
Trucks and tents are a more economically attainable pathway to a brick and mortar for many food entrepreneurs. Pop-up tents like JES Plant-Based, a vegan food business, are the first step.
“I’ve always dreamed of my food truck or brick and mortar for my vegan comfort food. It allows folks without means for a restaurant to put themselves out there and bring their business to people,” says Jes Lyons as she dishes up smoked mushroom sliders with pickled onions and cashew cream on soft buns. Her business is less than a year old, but a combination of social media posts and vegan fans looking for an alternative to meaty tacos and burgers is growing her audience.
Throughout the county, a new generation of Mexican food truck owners follows in the footsteps of traditional taco trucks by making Instagram-worthy dishes with fresh, authentic ingredients that appeal to a broadening audience of eaters.
The Mitote Food Park primarily hosts Hispanic business owners and helped launch Charro Negro in 2020. Run by Rodrigo Mendoza, a former Willi’s Seafood chef, the truck serves ocean-to-table dishes like aguachiles (a juicy ceviche made with raw shrimp marinated in lime), fish tacos and fried seafood.
“It’s what you would eat on the beaches of Mexico,” Mendoza explains. The concept is for “barrio” food that connects the Roseland neighborhood to the Pacific Ocean. Long lines form in front of the truck on hot days, with the bright, clean flavors of Charro Negro’s seafood dishes offering a cool respite under the communal Mitote tent.
Laura Mederos, with the Charro Negro food truck, holds up their Aguachile de Camarón, left, and Ceviche de Camarón in the Roseland area of Santa Rosa. (Christopher Chung/The Press Democrat)
This summer, rising prices for gas and raw ingredients, are squeezing owners’ financial margins. “It’s ridiculous. Not only meat costs, but things like mayonnaise and butter. As the cost of food rises, I get disappointed because I want to serve decent food with a cold beer. But I can tailor my menu,” says Lila Mathia. Desserts can be lower in cost to make—and they’re often top sellers, like Mathia’s brown butter chocolate cookie ice cream sandwiches.
Though the work is hardly easy, with three to four days of prep work in a commercial kitchen before spending hot, steamy days inside a truck serving food and long ago almost blowing herself up after accidentally leaving a propane tank on, Mathia says she wouldn’t trade it for the world.
“I wanted to go after a dream,” Mathia says. “It was really challenging, but I love it. I get to be a mad scientist with the food and make people happy.”
Find the Food Trucks
The best way by far to track Sonoma’s mobile food truck scene is on Instagram. The new @socofoodtrucks page offers daily updates in one spot.
The Everything-You-Need-to-Know Rundown of Sonoma’s Food Truck Scene
Adobos N’ More: Filipino food you won’t soon forget. Lumpia, adobo fries, bacon-wrapped crab, adobowl with pulled chicken or pork, rice, and lumpia. adobos-n-more. square.site.
Bayou on the Bay: Chef Bradley Wildridge is all about Cajun fusion food, with beignets, curry jambalaya, crawfish meat pies, and Muffuletta sandwiches. Instagram: @bayou.onthebay
Mac and cheese with smoked mushrooms at Bayou on the Bay. (Heather Irwin/Sonoma Magazine)
Black Piglet: Former Zazu owners John Stewart and Duskie Estes serve up amazing BLTs, salumi, salads, and Rodeo Jax, their famous bacon caramel popcorn. facebook.com/zazublackpiglet
Buns Only: Jose Cazares’ food truck is a marriage of burgers, hot dogs, and tacos. Perfectly cooked bacon cheeseburgers are among the most satisfying we’ve come across and “dirty fries” with sweet al pastor pork, guacamole, and more. Instagram: @bunsonlysr
Camachos Southern Style BBQ: Big bold, smoky goodness is their motto, and their tender meats are cooked low and slow for 12 hours or more. Ribs are a favorite. facebook.com/CamachosSouthernStyleBBQ
Chad Soup Shack: Outstanding soups, but Chef Chad also does short rib and crab sandwiches and whatever’s fresh at the market. facebook.com/Chadssoupshack/
El Charro Negro: Home of the best ocean-to-table tacos and tostadas in Sonoma County. Hands down. No question. Aguachiles, a juicy ceviche made with raw shrimp marinated in lime, are a specialty. Instagram: @charronegrofood
El Roy’s: This family-run Mexican restaurant empire has some of the best Mexican food. They’re usually stationed across the street from the Elenita truck in Roseland or Petaluma. elroysxpressmex.com
Galvan’s Eatery: Birria tacos are finger-licking good. Instagram: @galvanseatery
Holy Chile Mole: This new food truck mixes Romani dishes with tacos and straight-up tasty American faves. Don’t miss the “Gypsy” street dog with bacon, chile mole, and magic mayo, plus pulled brisket fries and short ribs. holychilemole.com
Indian Village Eats: A Flamin’ Hot Cheetos burger with macaroni and cheese stuffed inside is just one of the items on the sort of Indian, sort of Mexican menu. Instagram: @indianvillageeats
Jam’s Joy Bungalow: Southeast Asian-inspired food from talented chef Jamilah Nixon-Mathis. Curries, satay, banh mi, and other fabulous creations. Instagram: @jamsjoybungalow
Jes Plant-Based: From sweets to savory “pulled” mushroom sandwiches and mac and “cheez,” you won’t miss a thing in the meatless, dairy-less deliciousness. jes-plantbased.com
Lila’s Streetside Eats Eclectic: Eclectic pub grub featuring salads, chili, and savory beer rolls. Plus desserts to die for. Instagram: @lilasstreetsideeats
Lucha Sabina: Oaxacan street food focusing on mushrooms and incredible tlayuda (Mexican pizza) alongside more traditional fare. Instagram: @luchasabina
Streetside Asian Grill: The best of two worlds: teriyaki chicken bowls and shrimp spring rolls, plus Philly cheesesteaks and garlic wings. Instagram: @streetsideasiangrill
Sushi Shobu: It was a revelation the first time we had a sushi burrito. Run by a former sushi chef, it’s a sustainable, ocean-friendly model of Japanese cuisine. You’ll find his sushi burritos, housemade miso soup and other freshly made items. Instagram: @shoubufoodtruck
War Pigs BBQ: Not just great BBQ, but competition level BBQ. The sausages rock. Instagram: @warpigsbbq
