As fall sets in and summer’s harvest begins to wither and wane, we scramble to gather the last of our tomatoes, many still green, before the season’s first frost.
There are now several heirloom and hybrid varieties that are green when ripe, among them Striped Zebra, Emerald Evergreen, and Green Tiger. These are not the same as fall’s green tomatoes, still firm, unripe, and unlikely to fulfill their destiny.
Sicilians have a great approach, pulling out cherry tomato plants by their roots, hanging them upside-down outside in a protected area, and plucking them off the vine as they ripen.
This trick does not work for larger varieties, which should be enjoyed right away or preserved. Fried green tomatoes are ubiquitous and especially delicious when topped with a sphere of fresh chèvre and finished with cream. Fermenting them in a salt brine offers an extraordinary way to make salsas, sauces, and even bloody marys. Green tomato chutney is a compelling condiment with winter stews and braises.
Adding green tomatoes — cut in wedges and then halved — to your favorite stir-fry contributes a burst of bright acid. A combination of tomatoes, corn cut from the cob, cubed winter squash, green beans cut into 1-inch pieces, and minced shallots is both beautiful and luscious; add cooked, cubed chicken thighs, and voila!, dinner in minutes.
The days of gazpacho may be behind us, but green tomato soup is a delight, hot or chilled.
Green Tomato Soup
Makes about 6 servings
– 4 tbsp. olive oil
– 1 large shallot, peeled and minced
– 3 garlic cloves, peeled, crushed, and minced
– 1 serrano chile, stemmed and minced
– Kosher salt
– 3 pounds green, unripe tomatoes, cored and chopped
– 3 cups chicken or vegetable stock, preferably homemade
– ½ cup crème fraîche or plain whole-milk yogurt
– Freshly ground black pepper
– Extra-virgin olive oil
– ½ cup shelled and roasted pumpkin seeds
– Green Tabasco or other green hot sauce
Put the olive oil into a large soup pot set over medium-low heat, add the shallot and sauté until it begins to soften and give off its aroma, about 7 to 8 minutes. Add the garlic and serrano, cook 2 minutes more, and season with a pinch of salt.
Add the tomatoes, stir, season lightly with salt, and add the stock. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat to very low, and simmer gently for 15 minutes. Stir in the crème fraîche or yogurt, remove from the heat, cover, and let rest for 10 to 15 minutes.
Purée the soup using a blender or immersion blender. For a very smooth version, pass through a strainer after blending. If the soup is too thick for your taste, thin with stock or water.
Divide among soup plates or bowls, swirl olive oil on top, scatter with pumpkin seeds, add a few drops of Tabasco, and enjoy right away. Alternately, chill for at least 3 hours before serving.