Yes, California knows how to do bagels, and New York Times chief restaurant critic Tejal Rao made it official when she wrote a controversial article arguing that the best bagels aren’t in New York but in California.
Of course, the long-fermented, sourdough-infused, salt-covered bagel lovers of Sonoma County already knew the North Bay is very much part of the West Coast bagel boom (and don’t need Manhattan tap water to make a great bagel).
Though the exact origin of the bagel is unknown and debated, mainly because many cultures have made ring-shaped bread for centuries, the earliest known appearance of something resembling the modern-day bagel was in 1300s Poland as obwarzanek, a braided ring of dough that’s boiled, sprinkled with seasoning and then baked.
The bagel migrated from Eastern Europe to the United States during the 19th century, where it was primarily found in Jewish immigrant markets. Bagels hit the mainstream in the 1970s, becoming as ubiquitous as muffins, doughnuts and breakfast sandwiches.
Here are a dozen places to grab the best bagels in Sonoma County.
Best of the best
Healdsburg Bagel Company
A former musician in search of the great Jewish deli bagels of his youth, Healdsburg Bagel Company owner Drew Ross became a farm market celeb during the pandemic for his boiled-then-baked, handmade bagels. He translated that success into a wholesale business and, in 2023, opened Drewish Deli, offering not only bagels, but housemade cream cheese schmears and bagel dogs. You can also find fresh HBC bagels at Big John’s Market and various local farmers markets. 11 Mitchell Lane, Healdsburg, 707-955-0600, healdsburgbagelcompany.com
Grossman’s Noshery & Bar
Getting bagels just right was a top priority for owners Mark and Terri Stark at their Jew-ish style deli in Santa Rosa’s historic Railroad Square. After plenty of trial and error, they’ve successfully cracked the code for chewy, fresh-baked bagels and the rare salt bagel (perfect with housemade scallion cream cheese). Or try the Brooklyn Bagel Sandwich with lox, cucumber, tomato, sliced onion, schmear and dill on a toasted everything bagel. 308 1/2 Wilson St., Santa Rosa, 707-595-7707, grossmanssr.com
Homegrown Bagels
Homegrown Bagels in Sonoma has been serving fresh bagels with a great chew and a firm, golden crust since 1978. With a vast selection of bagels, spreads and creative sandwich options, the fun bagel combinations are endless. For a farm-fresh delight, try the Veggie Sandwich on a tomato basil bagel. If you prefer a good hunk of protein in your bagel sandwich, go for the Petaluma Melt Down with grilled chicken breast, bacon and provolone on a classic sesame seed bagel. 201 W. Napa St., Suite 21, Sonoma, 707-996-0166, homegrownbagels.com
The Bagel Mill
The Bagel Mill combines traditional bagel-making techniques with quality ingredients to create organic sourdough bagels, ensuring a great chew full of flavor every time. A fan favorite is the marble rye bagel, which pairs especially well with the housemade green olive cream cheese spread. The pesto bagel is another crowd-pleaser, as it’s flavorful enough on its own and heightens any sandwich option you prefer, such as the Classic Lox or the loaded Spicy Turkey Club. 212 Western Ave., Petaluma, 707-981-8010, thebagelmill.com
Quail & Condor
This buzzy Healdsburg bakery is known for its award-winning breads and pastries, though until recently, bagels weren’t part of the equation. In November, Quail & Condor moved into a larger location and expanded its menu to include more breakfast options, featuring dishes influenced by chef/owner Melissa McGaughey’s Turkish heritage. The simit, an oversized Turkish-style sesame seed bagel, is slathered with cream cheese and charred leek confit. 44 Mill St., Unit J, Healdsburg; 707-473-8254, quailandcondor.com
Marla SR Bakery and Cafe
When Marla opened in 2023 in Railroad Square, customers who previously tried chef/owner Amy Brown’s baked goods at pop-ups and farmers markets lined up for toasty bagels and giant croissants. For a sit-down breakfast at the cafe, order your choice of bagel topped with butter, farmers cheese, house-cured and smoked trout, or house spread with seasonal veggies. Need a bulk of carbs to go? Order the box of a half dozen bagels — two Maldon salt, two sesame, one poppy seed and one seeded — from the online shop for pickup. 208 Davis St., Santa Rosa, 707-852-4091, marlabakery.com
Mama Mel’s Bread
For hearty whole-grain, gluten-free, vegan bagels, Mama Mel’s is the cream of the crop. Its New York-style bagels are made with gluten-free flours and are steam-baked for a golden crust and chewy bite. The three-seed bagel contains a blend of organic chia, sesame and poppy seeds, giving it a mild, nutty flavor and a satisfying crunch. Other favorites include the robust onion bagel and the naturally sweet blueberry bagel. Order online for pickup at Mama Mel’s Kitchen in Petaluma (431 Payran St., Building C) or find Mama Mel’s baked goods at the Santa Rosa Community Farmers Market (1501 Farmers Lane) on select Saturdays. Mama Mel’s also supplies its gluten-free bread and bagels to various locations across the county. 707-595-0980, mamamelsbread.com
Honorable mentions
New York Bagel
For a proper New York-style bagel (made from scratch and kettle-boiled) in a small-town shop, look no further than New York Bagel in Rohnert Park’s Park Plaza Center. With a wide assortment of bagel flavors and housemade cream cheese spreads, it’s hard to go wrong with these dense, chewy bagels generously topped with your favorite fixings. Local favorites include the jalapeño bagel with bacon and eggs or plain cream cheese, and the savory onion bagel with scallion cream cheese. 6400 Commerce Blvd., Rohnert Park, 707-588-0414, nybagels-rohnert-park.com
Sonoma Valley Bagel
With three locations and a host of bagel options, Sonoma Valley Bagel has something for everyone. Bagels here are traditionally made: kettle-boiled then baked for a hearty crunch and soft chew. The pizza and cinnamon sugar bagels are kid favorites; and the spinach Parmesan and sourdough bagels are great for those who prefer more sophisticated bagel breakfasts. 130 Stony Point Road, Suite G, Santa Rosa, 707-578-7005; 1451 Southwest Blvd., Suite 107, Rohnert Park, 707-793-9990; 350 Rohnert Park Expressway W., Rohnert Park, 707-585-8095, sonomavalleybagel.com
Breakfast bagel sandos
Grateful Bagel
Serving up great bagels since 1979, Grateful Bagel is a hot spot for a quick breakfast sandwich or midday bagel bite. Favorites include a pesto bagel with schmear; Ellie’s Spicy Eggel with eggs, pepper jack cheese, avocado and tomato; and the Wild Boar, a classic ham, egg and cheese combo on a cheesy jalapeño bagel. 631 Fourth St., Santa Rosa, 707-535-0570; 925 Corporate Center Parkway, Suite E, Santa Rosa, 707-522-1388; 300 S. Main St., Sebastopol, 707-829-5220; 10101 Main St., Suite A, Penngrove, 707-794-1516; 221 N. McDowell Blvd., Petaluma, 707-658-1610
Plank Coffee
This north county cafe will fuel your morning and features a frittata-topped sesame bagel with melted sharp cheddar, garlic oil and mixed greens. Or go for the David Bagel with avocado, cream cheese, hard-boiled egg and housemade spicy mayo atop a toasted jalapeño cheddar bagel. All bagel sandwiches are vegetarian-friendly, with protein options like tempeh “bacon” and Beyond Meat “sausage.” 175 Dry Creek Road, Healdsburg, 707-395-0572; 227 N. Cloverdale Blvd., Cloverdale, 707-894-6187, plankcoffee.com
Café des Croissants
For a tasty, affordable bagel to-go, swing by any of the Café des Croissants locations. There are a variety of cream cheese spreads and bagel sandwich combos, such as honey walnut schmear on a blueberry bagel, or the popular Loxy Lady sandwich with lox, capers, tomatoes, onions and cream cheese. Locations in Santa Rosa, Rohnert Park and Sebastopol, cafedescroissants.com
Heather Irwin contributed to this article.
