May marks the 50th anniversary of the “Judgment of Paris,” when a panel of French wine judges chose the 1973 Chateau Montelena Chardonnay and 1973 Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon as the top wines in a France-versus-California showdown. What many people don’t know is that Chateau Montelena bought most of the grapes for its winning Chardonnay from two Sonoma County vineyards.
Bacigalupi Vineyards Goddard Ranch
When Charles and Helen Bacigalupi bought their Russian River Valley ranch in 1956, they weren’t sure what to do with the existing vineyard, planted to old-school grapes like Mission and French Colombard. Farm advisor Bob Sisson convinced Charles to try planting a variety called Chardonnay.
He’d never heard of it and had to grab a piece of paper to write down the name. “Bob told him, ‘Go see Karl Wente in Livermore,’” explained Charles’ granddaughter Katey Bacigalupi Row. “He’ll take care of you.”
Bacigalupi brought back Chardonnay cuttings from Wente Vineyards and planted 14 acres at Goddard Ranch.
Part of the vineyard’s magic is its rocky, volcanic clay soils. Because the vines struggle, the resulting wines have tension and minerality. Differing berry sizes on the clusters—known as “hens and chicks”—mean the grapes ripen at different rates, balancing acidity with ripe fruit flavors.
Belle Terre Ranch
Belle Terre’s Chardonnay vines, planted by Henry Dick in 1970, were just getting started in 1973. That made it all the more incredible that the Alexander Valley vineyard achieved such legendary status.
“It was unusual for a vineyard that young to do so well,” said Henry’s son Ron Dick, who now runs Belle Terre.
Dick said the magnitude of the Paris tasting didn’t really hit him until then-Chateau Montelena winemaker Mike Grgich came out and explained it. “After that,” Dick said, “I was flabbergasted.”
The following year, Chateau St. Jean began making a Belle Terre Chardonnay, celebrated for its minerality and ripe, stone-fruit flavors. The winery continued producing it for more than four decades.
Though Dick said he didn’t find a home for the fruit last year due to the industry glut, it’s part of the blend for Rodney Strong’s 2024 Sonoma County Chardonnay.
Three to try
Bacigalupi Vineyards
2023 Renouveau Paris Tasting Chardonnay, Russian River Valley, $85
This is currently the only wine made from the historic “Paris Tasting Block” on Goddard Ranch. The wine has ripe, peachy aromas with stone fruit and citrus zing on the palate. Rich and creamy, it finishes with a kiss of vanilla.
Auteur Wines
2024 Bacigalupi Vineyard Chardonnay, Russian River Valley, $65
Hailing from the block just below the Paris Tasting vineyard, this is a bright-yet-round rendition bursting with pure fruit flavors—think Golden Delicious apple—and balancing acidity. (It’s set for release in September—but wines this delicious are worth the wait.)
MacRostie Winery
2023 Bacigalupi Vineyard Chardonnay, Russian River Valley, $55
Rich and round on the palate, this has aromas of vanilla and flavors combining lemon meringue pie with tangy green apple. The wine has a creamy texture and a lingering finish.
