When it comes to crisp white wines, Sauvignon Blanc isn’t the only game in town. Italian white varieties are on the rise in Sonoma County — and the offerings go way beyond Pinot Grigio.
The delicious proof was on full display at this year’s North Coast Wine Challenge. Competing in the sweepstakes round for top honors were two Sonoma County Italians: a Fiano from DaVero Farms & Winery and a Biancolella d’Ischia from Orsi Family Vineyards.
The trend comes as no surprise to local winemakers like Sam Bilbro. He’s the founder and winemaker at Idlewild Wines in Healdsburg, which specializes in Italian-inspired wines.
“Italian varietals offer such a diversity of flavor profiles and joyful food friendliness,” says Bilbro, who makes wine from a Piedmontese grape called Erbaluce, planted at Las Cimas Ranch on the western edge of Russian River Valley.
“One of the qualities I love about this grape is that it has extreme fresh acidity matched with a textural mouthfeel,” he says. “I find that the aromatics are more driven by mineral tones and fresh Alpine scents with an undertone of orchard fruit.”
Eric Prahl, winemaker at Centennial Mountain Winery in Healdsburg, believes Sonoma County is an especially hospitable place for Italian whites. The Centennial Mountain vineyard includes California’s only planting of Carricante, hailing from Sicily.
“Italian varieties like Carricante have evolved over centuries to maintain balance in warm climates, which makes them highly relevant for the future of Sonoma County,” he says. “They offer a texture and a savory, saline quality that is still relatively uncommon here.”
Bilbro points out that Italian whites grown here sometimes express themselves a little differently in the glass.
“If made in a restrained style,” he says, “I find that Sonoma County is very true to the core of the varietals, as well as showing perhaps just a touch of California sunshine in the fruit tone.”
Three to try
Idlewild Wines
2023 Erbaluce, Las Cimas Vineyard, Russian River Valley, $42
With a vibrant golden color, Idlewild’s Erbaluce combines notes of lemon, fresh herbs and bright acidity. Made without oak, it’s fresh, juicy and food-friendly. 132 Plaza St., Healdsburg, 707-385-9410, idlewildwines.com
Orsi Family Vineyards
2024 Biancolella d’Ischia, Dry Creek Valley, $28
Made from a grape traditionally grown on the island of Ischia, Biancolella is known for its crispness, light body and subtle almond finish. Orsi’s is true to type — a mineral-kissed wine with tropical fruit aromas. 2306 Magnolia Drive, Healdsburg, 707-732-4660, orsifamilyvineyards.com
Centennial Mountain
2022 Carricante, Sonoma County , $49
With a lightly floral aroma, this energetic white shows off notes of citrus, minerals and fresh herbs. Intense, yet full of freshness and zing. It is delicious now, but you could also lay it down for a couple years to see how it develops. 337 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, 669-240-5611, cmvineyard.com
