This is how “Old World” the feeling is at Preston Farm & Winery: When I brought my Italian-born dad there for a visit years ago, he wandered into the vegetable gardens and returned with a handful of peppers, excitedly urging me to take them back to my apartment for later. The property reminded him so much of our family’s farm in Southern Italy that he made himself right at home. Preston is the kind of place that invites you to bring the family along and play some bocce. Sit underneath a shady tree and chat with your neighbor. And, of course, enjoy some really good wine.
The story
Lou Preston studied chemical engineering at Stanford before realizing that he wanted to take an entirely different path. His family had owned a dairy farm near Windsor, and he liked the idea of working the land and getting his hands dirty. In 1973, after earning a business degree and then spending a year studying viticulture and enology at UC Davis, he bought an old ranch in Dry Creek Valley.
The site already had a few acres of vines — the Guadagni family first planted it to Zinfandel in 1895 — plus lots of prunes. Preston got to know his Italian neighbors, including his mentor Jim Guadagni, and they generously shared their knowledge of the land and advised him on what to plant. Sauvignon Blanc was first to go into the ground, followed by Syrah, Mourvèdre, Cinsault, Grenache, Viognier, and other Rhône varieties. Preston cobbled together his first winery in 1975 and grew production to 30,000 cases in a little over a decade.
Preston reached a turning point in 2000 when he met “Amigo Bob” Cantisano, a pioneer in California’s organic farming scene. He convinced Preston to stop spraying and start composting. Around the same time, Preston scaled back wine production to 8,000 cases and fully devoted himself to farming. Over the years, he added livestock, fruits and vegetables, and grain. The 170-acre estate now includes 65 acres of grapes and an equal amount of other crops — all certified organic. This year, Preston celebrates his 50th harvest.
The vibe
Tastings take place inside the sweet yellow farmhouse, on the front porch, or at one of the outdoor tables. In spring and summer, the farm is alive with the buzz of pollinating bees and the purr of hummingbird wings. A grouping of picnic tables beneath a pergola, next to the bocce court, provides an ideal spot for sipping between games. (Feel free to adopt Caputo family rules: The losing team is only allowed to drink wine during the next match if the winners grant permission. That’s what we consider punishment.) The overall effect is pretty, peaceful and casual.
On the palate
Though I’ve long been a Preston fan, I have to admit I’d fallen behind in keeping up with the latest vintages. That is, until I stumbled on a tasting at my local wine shop a couple months ago. Mind? Blown. These wines were lighter on their feet than the ones I remembered — fresh and lively. Clearly, I had missed something important. That something, it turned out, was the hiring of Grayson Hartley as Preston’s winemaker and viticulturist in 2018. Hartley’s mission, he told me, is to make Dry Creek Valley wines that transparently express the place where they’re grown without uber-ripeness or prominent oak getting in the way. As a bonus, all of the wines are priced under $50.
The 2024 Dry Creek Valley Sauvignon Blanc ($36) is fresh and crisp, with grassy notes and a citrus zing. The winery’s 2023 Vin Gris ($34), a Mourvedre-based rosé, has soft berry aromas and strawberry flavor. I was an instant fan of the 2023 Cinsaut ($42), with its cherry pie profile and savory notes. If you’re lucky, you might get a taste of Schiopettino, a heat-tolerant Italian red planted in an experimental block. Tastings cost $35 and include five to six wines.
Beyond the bottle
On “Jug Sundays,” the first Sunday of each month, Preston regales visitors with stories while filling 3-liter growlers of “Jim’s Jug” (formerly called Guadagni), the winery’s Zinfandel-based red blend. The wine costs $10 for a refillable jug plus $65 for the wine. While you’re there, peruse the farm store for seasonal produce, estate olive oil and Lou’s freshly baked breads.
Tina Caputo is a wine, food, and travel journalist who contributes to Sonoma magazine, SevenFifty Daily, Visit California, Northern California Public Media, KQED, and more. Follow her on Bluesky at @winebroad.bsky.social, view her website at tinacaputo.com, and email her story ideas at tina@caputocontent.com.