Though Seamus is now gone, the recipe remains.
Lasagna is not supposed to weigh four pounds per serving. Nor should it do double duty as a door stop or require a steak knife to cut.
Mine inevitably is characterized by all three of those faults plus razor-sharp shards of burnt cheese and mushy pasta. Laugh it up, but I’ve had even worse versions at a number of restaurants that shall remain nameless. Not even Garfield would eat that stuff..
The reason for this, of course, is that great lasagna takes time to do properly. Lots and lots of time, from rolling out fresh sheets of pasta to house-made béchamel and patiently waiting for it to cook (and cool just enough to hold firm). So far, the only guy we’ve found ’round these parts who truly does it right is Peter Lowell’s Chef Seamus Guevara.
The pasta impresario crafts the lightest, airiest lasagna in Wine Countrydom. Seven-plus layers thick, it’s a tasty stratum of pasta, cream sauce, zesty tomato sauce and fluffy ricotta. The ingredients are in line with the restaurant’s fundamental organic, seasonal, produce-centric offerings (they offer some fish selections, but otherwise are vegetarian).
For this version, no meat. No gloppy blobs of uncooked mozzarella. Just a sprinkling of fresh Parmesan and torn basil on top.
“It’s amazing. The best lasagna I’ve had,” gushed a local chef who tipped me off. Until proven otherwise, I concur.
But don’t expect it on the menu every day. Typically the lasagna shows up at Seamus’ whim, but he’ll be making it Friday, Saturdays and Sundays just for you, BiteClubbers. At least for a while. Making it even more elusive and special.
(If you don’t want to be disappointed, call ahead to see if lasagna’s on the menu. Guevara always has a daily pasta special, but it’s not always lasagna.)
Peter Lowell’s, 7385 Healdsburg Ave., Sebastopol, 707.829.1077.