Ad Hoc, Thomas Keller’s third Yountville restaurant is temporary no more.

The Chronicle reported yesterday that, after much speculation, Keller has decided to leave the homey, prix-fixe eatery intact. Sighs of relief from gushing fans were audible from throughout Wine Country. Our braised beef short ribs and pork loin aren’t going anywhere soon.

Housed in the former Wine Garden restaurant just blocks from Keller’s tony French Laundry, bistro-style Bouchon and Bouchon Bakery, Ad Hoc was to be a six-month experiment in casual, family-style dinners while he worked out the details for a Napa-style wine and burger bar.

Drawn by the $45 price-tag for dishes like roasted beet and frisee salad, braised beef short ribs (so tender you could cry), artisinal cheese plates and Americana deserts like chocolate brownies with whipped cream, Ad Hoc caught on like wildfire. You can’t go wrong with American comfort food. Critical praise only fanned the flame.

But charm isn’t just that Ad Hoc is good eats. Or that culinary wunderkind Thomas Keller is somewhere behind the scenes (he mostly consults on the menus, leaving Bouchon chef Jeffrey Cerciello to oversee the kitchen). Or that you can usually get a reservation the same week (but don’t try to walk in and get dinner on a weekend night).

It’s that even for a ‘temporary’ restaurant, everything is so Keller “so meticulously done. The wine list is an adventure, with plenty of casual wines by the glass and bottles topping out at $88. Many are under $50. The family-style plates are simple, yet utterly beautiful, nothing slopped on or thrown together. And despite the price, the staff is trained to be attentive and friendly, never to a fault, but treating diners like royalty, rather than cheapskates.

Word is that the restaurant will close briefly in the spring for a few facelifts and minor changes, but no major overhauls. And that’s good news to all of us who knew, from the very start, that the restaurant who’s name means, “For this purpose” couldn’t have be anything else.

If you go: Don’t expect French-inspired haute-cuisine or tiny plates. The portions are generous and the food is strictly home-style Americana. Also, make sure to call ahead for a reservation, no matter what you’ve heard. The reasonably-priced wine list gives diners the opportunity to experiment, so try something fun, like pairing each of the four courses with a different wine.

Ad Hoc, 6476 Washington St., Yountville, 707.944.2487

I want a recount.

In a devastating turn of events, Kettle Chips announced that Island Jerk has won the 2007 People’s Choice vote, narrowly shutting out Twisted Chili Lime and Dragon 5 Spice. As supreme chip of the year, the flavor (think barbecue meets allspice) will go into production this summer.

Call me crushed. My man, Royal Indian Curry, wasn’t even a contender.

Confused? For the past two years, Oregon-based Kettle Foods has offered a collection of limited edition potato chip flavors “this year it was jerk, chili lime, Dragon 5 Spice, chocolate and curry “through their website. Food freaks (like me) get all worked up over this and spend $20 just to taste these wacky snacks not offered to the general public. In the end, only one flavor is left standing, the rest relegated to a salty memory.

Like my man, Curry. Rest in peace, friend.

Kettle Chips at www.kettlefoods.com

Want to order your own 2007 People’s Choice Chips? Click here. Your Superbowl friends will be very impressed.

PS How come the UK gets flavors like Apple, Sage & Thyme, Crème Fraiche and Buffalo Mozzerela? Dude, I want those. Check out what our cousins across the pond like.

You locked the keys in the house this morning. A flock of birds christened the hood of your freshly-washed car. Your boss wanted that report two days ago. And your boyfriend failed to notice your new $200 hairdo.

Yes, there are bigger problems in the world, but right now, you’re not sure what they are. Time for a little tea.

Requiring us world-weary patrons to take a moment, sit back and relax, the newly-opened Infusions Teahouse in Sebastopol is an oasis of ohm. Let yourself be mesmerized by the wall of shining silver containers filled with exotic loose leaf teas. Take a seat on the puffy couch and meditate for a moment on everything from organic oolong to Earl Gray.

Overwhelmed? Owner and tea enthusiast Miki Shamir gently guides customers along, offering up suggestions and advice on the more than 100 infusions she has on hand.

But forget the tacky tea bags and paper cups. The real relaxation moment comes from infusing your own tea at the table. There’s no hurrying the steep. Breathe. Pour. Sip. Repeat. Problems dissolved.

Infusions Teahouse, 6988 McKinley, Sebastopol, 829.1181

Offering tea and small plates (many vegan) daily. Weekly music and poetry events in the evening. Check out infusionsteashop.com for more information, tea menus and events.

Get ready to bring home the bacon, it’s pork season.

Throughout the region chefs are celebrating their favorite cloven-hooved friends throughout January and February with special dinners that take advantage of, well, pretty much everything but the squeal.

Be a salumist, January 18
Chefs Franco Dunn and Dino Bugica from Santi restaurant in Geyserville will be teaching sausage, pancetta and salami making using centuries old Italian recipes at VIVA. If you can’t make the event, Santi sells its homemade sausage (given recent props by the New York Times) from its restaurant or Santi’s website. $80, 6:30 to 9:30pm, 7160 Keating Ave, Sebastopol, 824.9913.

Festa del Porco at Bovolo, January 20 and 21
Celebrating the feat of St. Anthony (the patron saint of butchers) Duskie and John host a nose to tail supper at their Healdsburg restaurant featuring their Black Pig Salumi, hogs head soup, belly and more. Again, if you can’t make the dinner, John sells his homemade salumi and bacon at the restaurant. Definitely worth a special trip. $65 per person, call 707.431.2962 to reserve your spot.

Dry Creek Kitchen’s Second Annual Celebration of Pigs and Pinot, January 24
Sample more than 50 pinot noirs paired with pork dishes, charcuterie, pates and other special creations from chefs Charlie Palmer, Michael Ellis, Corey Schreiber and Jean-David Daudet from Burgandy. $75, 6:30 to 9pm, 317 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg
Click for more information and other events during the celebration

Oliveto’s Whole Hog Dinners, February 6 – 9, 2007
This is THE event of the season for nose to tail eaters. From blood pudding to bacon ice cream, the restaurant pulls out all the stops with its extensive pork-tastic menu. If you haven’t done it at least once, make a point of going. This year, former Oliveto chef Paul Bertolli will be launching his new line of salumi during the event. Get the details at their website

Whimsical sushi rolls rank somewhere between Appletinis and sausage logs in my gastronomical repertoire. Which is to say, I avoid them at all costs. Unless they come with tater tots. Then, it’s a totally different story.

Mixing a little bit of wacky into its opening menu, Gohan gets the joke. Just a few days old, the ultra-modern sushi spot does straight-faced nigiri and sashimi along with a few ringers like the ‘Napoleon Dynamite Roll’, a tempura roll stuffed with eel, cream cheese and snow crab, garnished with, yep, Napoleon’s iconic lunchtime favorite, tater tots. “Its my favorite movie,” says baby-faced chef/owner Steve Tam with a shrug as he table hops between customers.

Already pulling in a solid lunch-time crowd into the sleek, Zen-inspired spot, er, in the middle of Petaluma’s Redwood Gateway Shopping Center (keep an open mind), Gohan’s sushi crew is turning out some red-hot fish. Frankly, I’m sad they missed out on BiteClub’s recent Sushi Smackdown, because I think they’d make a top contender.

A bit surprised that BiteClub had already sussed out his spot, Tam is apologetic about the still-limited menu (there is a full sushi bar, but entrees are still a bit slim). Call me less than worried.

If you go, best bets include the Gohan sushi bento, a bonanza of food for just $15 including miso and cucumber salad, three pieces of sushi, four pieces of sashimi, a California roll and Spicy Tuna Roll and a salad. Good eatin’.

Also try the ‘New style’ sashimi (a little on the pricey side), that includes several slices of sashimi with ponzu citrus or other sauces in an artistic arrangement guaranteed to impress your date. (You might also think about cuddling up next to the floating fireplace).

The menu also trots out Japanese standards like Chicken teriyaki and tempura for less adventurous eaters, along with beer and sake and a sinful green tea cheesecake.

But adventure is what makes life, well, bearable some days. And taking a chance on whimsical makimono that comes with tots? Well, that’s just the icing on the sushi.

Gohan Japanese Restaurant, 1367 McDowell #E-5, Petaluma (in the Kohl’s shopping center)

Puffing away quietly on the deck, the Red Rose Café’s Southern Pride smoker tells you all you need to know. Where there’s smoke there’s BBQ.

And where there’s BBQ, there’d better be a guy like Harold Rogers, throwing a dash of this and a dash of that into his recipe for serious southern sauce–sweet and spicy and rib-sticking–and guarded so closely that even his wife doesn’t know the recipe.

Soul food once again goes prime time in Santa Rosa as the Red Rose’s owners, Harold and Nancy Rogers, bring on southern-style home cooking not seen since Terry’s Southern BBQ vanished.

Raised in Arkansas, the Rogers know from BBQ, and collard greens, sweet potato pie, catfish, fried chicken and yams–all cooked from scratch. In fact, Nancy insists on getting her farm-raised catfish from the Southern ponds her family works. She just feels better knowing where it comes from.

Surrounded by family (their children, grandkids and extended family are all part of the mix), the Rogers recently moved up in the world from their former space in a bowling Sebastopol bowling alley that seated just 16. Remodeling the recently-vacated “Marbles” space off Piner road, Nancy said the couple made more than a few upgrades to the kitchen to get it up to their special soul-food-cooking-needs. Like the smoker, the special pressure cooker, and plenty of room for Harold to experiment with his recipes.

Best bets from the menu include the BBQ ribs, cooked on site with hickory chips; a meaty pull pork sandwich; Nancy’s pressure-cooked fried chicken and farm-raised catfish and, of course, a piece of homemade sweet potato pie.

And if you’re hankering for a big breakfast, Red Rose serves up liver and onions, biscuits and gravy, chicken wings and waffles, Louisiana hot links and chicken fried steak. You know, just a little something to tide you over until lunch.

The restaurant also accommodates lighter eaters, featuring tofu and tempeh scrambles and a Thai noodle salad for the waist-conscious. Hey, not everyone can put away a half-chicken, a bowl of greens and a slice of pie in a sitting. Pitiful, I know, but true.

In fact, there’s just one thing you can’t have at Red Rose, and that’s the secret to Harold’s secret sauce. But take one bite of that smoky sweet meat, and you’ll know all you need to know.

Red Rose Café, 1770 Piner Road, Santa Rosa, 95403
Open for Breakfast, lunch and dinner, Monday through Saturday, Sunday until 3pm.
www.redrosecafe.com

Ken Tominaga is one of the few chefs who can charge $28 for a lobster sushi roll and not only get away with it, but inspire a sense of gratitude for the privilege of ordering it.

Holding court behind the sushi bar of Cindy Pawlcyn’s Go Fish in St. Helena, Tominaga is the stuff of legend here in SoCo as owner and chef of Hana Japanese in Rohnert Park. Spreading the raw fish love to Napa, he’s now splitting his time between the two restaurants, reportedly making frequent treks between RP and St. Helena.

Why? Because Tominaga, like just about everyone else drawn into Pawlcyn’s gravitational pull, would be crazy not to.

Since its opening this fall, Pawlcyn’s celebrity influence (as founder of Mustard’s and Cindy’s Backstreet Kitchen) and her adept hiring of some of the region’s best chefs has attracted a fairly rabid fan base–despite mixed reviews in the blogosphere (the Chronicle’s Michael Bauer has yet to weigh in) mostly over hiccups in service and some uneven dishes from the kitchen.

And now, another addition, former Julia’s Kitchen chef Victor Scargle. A counterpoint to Pawlcyn’s typically homey bistro-style fare, Scargle’s style is more haute and more French, as evidenced by recent menu additions of Ahi Tuna and Crispy Veal Sweetbreads (not up to Scargle standards, frankly) and Day Boat Scallops with Sonoma Foie Gras.

Will the curious mixture of casual California (Fish Your Way: You pick a daily catch sauced and cooked your way), clams, onion rings and Crab Louie; Scargle’s refined Franco-inspired Surf & Turf dishes and Ken’s Japanese flair all jive?

Or is it a high-profile train wreck in the making?

Right now, the honest answer is that it’s probably a little too early to tell. Things need to settle a bit, especially since Scargle’s addition. But with a nice glass of Chateau St. Michelle Eroica and a table near the window, Go Fish is more than worth some continued gustatory investigation.

And, uh, bring me a $28 lobster sushi roll while you’re at it.

In a rather ironic turn of events meat-lover’s haven Black Bean BBQ (formerly Clo’s) is vacating its Summerfield Road space to be replaced by the popular vegetarian hangout, East West Cafe.

According to BiteClub’s sources, East West has lost its long-time Montgomery Village lease and will be moving lock-stock-and-tofu up the road to the former BBQ/family-style honkey-tonk in February. Black Bean has been closed for ‘renovations’ for more than a week.

It’s been a long road for Black Bean, which started as Clo’s Parkside Grill in 1997. In 2005 it became Stim’s (under the same ownership), one of two BBQ restaurants operated by Jim Bergin. When the newer downtown Stim’s foundered in June 2005, that restaurant was shuttered and Stim’s on Summerfield became Black Bean BBQ, confusing the heck out of everyone.

Fans of Clo’s/Stim’s/Black Bean will still be able to get their fix, however. The company will continue as a catering-only operation with the same phone number (539-6100) or at blackbeanbbq.com.

But with several BBQ joints (most notably Terry’s Southern BBQ) going up in smoke over the last two years, one has to wonder…is there something in the sauce? Why can’t the North Bay support a decent brisket? And no, don’t tell me about what’s left, cause baby, that ain’t BBQ. I’m just sayin’…

In any case, East West is currently open at its 2323 Sonoma Ave., Montgomery Village location in Santa Rosa.

Along with bags of jasmine rice and soy sauce, you’re apt to find all sorts of exotic things in Asian grocery stores. Like giant frozen beetles. And chile flavored squid. And squishy, shrink-wrapped stuff that dares you to identify it.

Which is all quite enlightening but, as someone whose wok has seen more action as a salad bowl than an actual cooking utensil, a little daunting. I usually exit Santa Rosa’s Asian groceries with a bag of Hello Kitty Candy and some shrimp chips. Totally frustrated.

No longer. Asia Gourmet is exotic grocer for the rest of us. Filled with neat rows of Chinese, Japanese, Thai and Indian foods, Adam and Jay Jay Dodds (who are both the young proprietors and self-proclaimed foodies) put recipes for delish dishes near the ingredients–giving dummies like me a grocery list and inspiration. I grabbed instructions for both the orange peel chicken and stir fry. Yum.

Along with dry goods, the couple (who most recently hail from LA) are expanding their fresh produce, and will soon have fresh winter melon and galangal root, along with current offerings of lemon grass, ginger and other Asian specialties.

There’s also a section devoted to woks and cookery, teas, reproduction Shanghai advertising posters and gifts (like the wooden sushi set I picked up). Sake and wines, Chinese herbals and sushi to go are forthcoming, the Dodds promise. The Indian offerings, including dals, chutneys, spices and oils are also expanding.

And despite the fact that I left with more Asian chatchkes than Asian food on my maiden visit, I’ll be back once I give my wok a thorough dusting and finish off the last of my shrimp chips. Which is likely to be rather soon.

Local cred: The couple are also tight with SRJC’s resident Asian cooking expert Mei Ibach, who was shopping and chatting with the couple yesterday. (You can see some of her recipes in next week’s PD). Check out Mei’s cooking class on sushi coming up at Sur La Table on Jan. 10.

Asia Gourmet, 4100 Montomery Dr., Santa Rosa, 707.537.6888