Ken Tominaga is one of the few chefs who can charge $28 for a lobster sushi roll and not only get away with it, but inspire a sense of gratitude for the privilege of ordering it.

Holding court behind the sushi bar of Cindy Pawlcyn’s Go Fish in St. Helena, Tominaga is the stuff of legend here in SoCo as owner and chef of Hana Japanese in Rohnert Park. Spreading the raw fish love to Napa, he’s now splitting his time between the two restaurants, reportedly making frequent treks between RP and St. Helena.

Why? Because Tominaga, like just about everyone else drawn into Pawlcyn’s gravitational pull, would be crazy not to.

Since its opening this fall, Pawlcyn’s celebrity influence (as founder of Mustard’s and Cindy’s Backstreet Kitchen) and her adept hiring of some of the region’s best chefs has attracted a fairly rabid fan base–despite mixed reviews in the blogosphere (the Chronicle’s Michael Bauer has yet to weigh in) mostly over hiccups in service and some uneven dishes from the kitchen.

And now, another addition, former Julia’s Kitchen chef Victor Scargle. A counterpoint to Pawlcyn’s typically homey bistro-style fare, Scargle’s style is more haute and more French, as evidenced by recent menu additions of Ahi Tuna and Crispy Veal Sweetbreads (not up to Scargle standards, frankly) and Day Boat Scallops with Sonoma Foie Gras.

Will the curious mixture of casual California (Fish Your Way: You pick a daily catch sauced and cooked your way), clams, onion rings and Crab Louie; Scargle’s refined Franco-inspired Surf & Turf dishes and Ken’s Japanese flair all jive?

Or is it a high-profile train wreck in the making?

Right now, the honest answer is that it’s probably a little too early to tell. Things need to settle a bit, especially since Scargle’s addition. But with a nice glass of Chateau St. Michelle Eroica and a table near the window, Go Fish is more than worth some continued gustatory investigation.

And, uh, bring me a $28 lobster sushi roll while you’re at it.

In a rather ironic turn of events meat-lover’s haven Black Bean BBQ (formerly Clo’s) is vacating its Summerfield Road space to be replaced by the popular vegetarian hangout, East West Cafe.

According to BiteClub’s sources, East West has lost its long-time Montgomery Village lease and will be moving lock-stock-and-tofu up the road to the former BBQ/family-style honkey-tonk in February. Black Bean has been closed for ‘renovations’ for more than a week.

It’s been a long road for Black Bean, which started as Clo’s Parkside Grill in 1997. In 2005 it became Stim’s (under the same ownership), one of two BBQ restaurants operated by Jim Bergin. When the newer downtown Stim’s foundered in June 2005, that restaurant was shuttered and Stim’s on Summerfield became Black Bean BBQ, confusing the heck out of everyone.

Fans of Clo’s/Stim’s/Black Bean will still be able to get their fix, however. The company will continue as a catering-only operation with the same phone number (539-6100) or at blackbeanbbq.com.

But with several BBQ joints (most notably Terry’s Southern BBQ) going up in smoke over the last two years, one has to wonder…is there something in the sauce? Why can’t the North Bay support a decent brisket? And no, don’t tell me about what’s left, cause baby, that ain’t BBQ. I’m just sayin’…

In any case, East West is currently open at its 2323 Sonoma Ave., Montgomery Village location in Santa Rosa.

Along with bags of jasmine rice and soy sauce, you’re apt to find all sorts of exotic things in Asian grocery stores. Like giant frozen beetles. And chile flavored squid. And squishy, shrink-wrapped stuff that dares you to identify it.

Which is all quite enlightening but, as someone whose wok has seen more action as a salad bowl than an actual cooking utensil, a little daunting. I usually exit Santa Rosa’s Asian groceries with a bag of Hello Kitty Candy and some shrimp chips. Totally frustrated.

No longer. Asia Gourmet is exotic grocer for the rest of us. Filled with neat rows of Chinese, Japanese, Thai and Indian foods, Adam and Jay Jay Dodds (who are both the young proprietors and self-proclaimed foodies) put recipes for delish dishes near the ingredients–giving dummies like me a grocery list and inspiration. I grabbed instructions for both the orange peel chicken and stir fry. Yum.

Along with dry goods, the couple (who most recently hail from LA) are expanding their fresh produce, and will soon have fresh winter melon and galangal root, along with current offerings of lemon grass, ginger and other Asian specialties.

There’s also a section devoted to woks and cookery, teas, reproduction Shanghai advertising posters and gifts (like the wooden sushi set I picked up). Sake and wines, Chinese herbals and sushi to go are forthcoming, the Dodds promise. The Indian offerings, including dals, chutneys, spices and oils are also expanding.

And despite the fact that I left with more Asian chatchkes than Asian food on my maiden visit, I’ll be back once I give my wok a thorough dusting and finish off the last of my shrimp chips. Which is likely to be rather soon.

Local cred: The couple are also tight with SRJC’s resident Asian cooking expert Mei Ibach, who was shopping and chatting with the couple yesterday. (You can see some of her recipes in next week’s PD). Check out Mei’s cooking class on sushi coming up at Sur La Table on Jan. 10.

Asia Gourmet, 4100 Montomery Dr., Santa Rosa, 707.537.6888

Like just about everyone else, I’m halfway out the door to stuff stockings and finish last minute gifts, but before I head out, here’s a list of restaurants with special Chanukah and Christmas menus. Cheers!

*Bistro V
FRIDAY NIGHT ONLY
December 22: Chanukah candle lighting. Plus Sufganiot donuts can be purchased to take home. $2.00 a piece. They are filled with either the traditional strawberry jam/jelly, chocolate or duche de leche (caramel). The donuts are a traditional holiday treat, along with other fried foods, that commemorating the Miracle of the Oil. Mmmmm. oil.

December 24, 2006 Christmas Eve Dinner – Special Menu
December 31, 2006 New Year’s Eve Dinner – Special Menu
Bistro V, 2295 Gravenstein Hwy S, Sebastopol. (* items are BiteClub picks)

* El Dorado Kitchen
405 First St. West, Sonoma, 707.996.3030
High-end dining on the Sonoma square. Chef Ryan Fancher is a French Laundry alum, and his meticulous dishes show it.

* The Lodge at Sonoma
1325 Broadway, Sonoma, 707.931.2042
*John Ash
4350 Barnes Road, Santa Rosa, 707.575.7350
Luxurious setting at a restaurant that has become a SoCo institution.

Etoile Restaurant at Domaine Chandon
One California Dr., Yountville
Open Christmas Eve.

The Inn at the Tides
800 Coast Highway One, Bodega Bay, 800.541.7788
Reservations strongly suggested.

Seafood Brasserie
170 Railroad St, Santa Rosa, 707.636.7388

Equus
The three course dinner features everything from Duck Ravioli with Orange and Cranberry or Classic Lobster Bisque to Roast Prime Rib with Yorshire Pudding or Petrale Sole with Dungeness Crab and Shrimp. Seatings available from 1pm-7pm. 101 Fountaingrove Parkway
Santa Rosa, 578-6101

Old Fashioned Christmas Dinner
Veterans Memorial Building
Members of the Lions club of Sonoma County and The Disabled American Verterans will hold their annual Christmas Day Dinner. Seniors, families, and others who are alone are invited to share the feast. Call 546-2973 for more information, to volunteer, or to request delivery. December 25, Noon-2pm, 1351 Maple Ave., Santa Rosa.

Josef’s Restaurant & Bar
(from Michele Jordan’s A La Carte column, be sure to read it!) Three-course holiday feast on Dec. 24 and 25, starting at 4:30 p.m. on Christmas Eve and 3:30 p.m. on Christmas Day. Choices include scallops and prawns in a lobster sauce, beef Wellington with bearnaise sauce and roasted duck with peppercorn sauce. Desserts include Meyer lemon tart and pears poached in late-harvest gewurztraminer. Hotel La Rose in Railroad Square, across from Depot Park. 571-8664.

Got a tip? Email me at biteclub@pressdemo.com.

In October, one of Windsor’s more forward-thinking eateries, L’Assiette quietly closed its doors. The neighborhood, it seems, wasn’t quite ready for super-luxe take away concept featuring a mix of local, organic, Cal-Mediterranean inspired foods from former SF chef Amey Shaw.

“Windsor just wasn’t prepared for the type of food I was doing. I had some really loyal, incredible customers. But there just weren’t enough people,” says Shaw, who is now heading up the kitchens at the Jimtown Store.

But is she just marking time, dishing up the roadside café’s well-loved, but mostly simple menu of soups and sandwiches? The answer is that, for now, she’s content putting her own touches on the daily specials and heading up Jimtown’s holiday catering. Manning the fires for hyper-connected owner Carrie Brown probably isn’t hurting her long term prospects, either.

For now, though frustrated by the failure of L’Assiette, Shaw says she’s going to see where life takes her next. Already, she’s been approached about heading up a new restaurant in the Bay Area (though she won’t say more). Let’s just hope it’s nearby. Because Sonoma County can’t afford to lose yet another talented chef for lack of opportunity.

Visit Amey at the Jimtown Store, 6708 State Highway 128, Healdsburg, 707.433.1212.

Generations of local eaters have grown up on the Panizzera family’s Italian cooking. So, it should come as little surprise that the newest Union Hotel outpost, near the intersection of Mission and Rt. 12, has been packed with nostalgic eaters since its opening this month.

And its probably also no surprise that, like their two other restaurants (in West Santa Rosa and the original, in Occidental) mama-mia style cooking rules here: Homemade ravioloi, chicken cacciatore, lasagna and pizza. Lots of cheese. Lots of tomatoes. Loooooooooooooots of garlic. Plenty of breadsticks for sopping up all the really good stuff.

For the merely peckish, Union Hotel has a classic minestrone soup, bruschetta, and Caesar salads. But somehow eating so little seems, well, almost rude in a place known for its Mangiamo! portions.

But you probably already knew that, too.

What you may not yet know is that the new space is warm and cozy, with glowing candles on each table and a toasty fireplace for a little post-noshing amore with your little cacciatore. Also, the hotel (which is not actually a hotel, but does offer several large banquet rooms) opens its bakery for pastries and coffee bright and early (7ish) and has a semi-separate bar for evening revelry.

So, despite the fact that the paint is barely dry and the sign just finished being hung up, there’s something oddly familiar about The Union Hotel. But you knew there would be.

Union Hotel, 280 Mission Blvd., Santa Rosa, 707.538.6000.

After several soy-soaked months, BiteClub is preparing the ultimate sushi guide to SoCo.

But first, I want your opinion. What’s the absolute freshest, best, tastiest, most artistic sushi in the region? Who’s the best chef?

This is your big chance, so let me know.

Stay tuned TODAY for the results.

Drop your comments below, or email me directly at biteclub@pressdemo.com.

Chow!

Quince is apparently one of Thomas Keller’s (French Laundry, Bouchon, Per Se, Ad Hoc, etc.) favorite haunts. Who knew? The celeb chef, along with a rather impressive list of other local gastronomical luminaries spread the love around in a rather clever American express advertisement called “San Francisco Dish”.

Along with video vignettes, the site also offers some rather nice little discounts and “freebies” for local restaurants including The Girl and the Fig, Celadon, Dry Creek Kitchen, etc. Worth checking out if for nothing else than the coupons.

Or, you know, just nerding out to a bunch of chefs talking about food. Which may or may not have sucked up approximately 3 hours of my weekend.

Here’s the link