Located in the hinterlands of south Santa Rosa Avenue, Na Thong is too good a secret not to let BiteClubbers in on. Sandwiched between a coffee/BBQ shop and a tattoo parlor in, er, a rather colorful part of town the month-old restaurant is serving up some solid Laotian and Thai cuisine to those intrepid enough to find it.

The menu has a number of familiar favorites (egg rolls, satay, tom kha gai soup, pho and pad thai), but what really got my attention were the not-so-familiar items like crispy deep fried quail ($7.95), yum talay (calamari, mussels, scallops and prawsn with lemon grass, citrus leaves, onion, mint leaves and roasted rice with smoked chili sauce, $9.95); and a tamarind-infused peanut curry (kang musmun, $8.95). Laotian-style dishes like shredded green papaya salad ($6.95) and several larb dishes (larb is the national dish of Laos, and is usually made from minced meat–duck, beef, pork or chicken–mixed with spices like lemon grass, mint, onion and chili sauce.) Plus, green, yellow and two types of red curry.

Though the spot isn’t fancy, service is attentive and gracious with attention to small details–ornate rice serving bowls, attractive dishware and little plastic flowers on each table. Not the kind of thing you usually find in this neck of the woods.

Need more incentive? Sticky rice, warm peanut sauce and Thai karaoke Thursday through Saturday nights.

Na Thong, 3446 Santa Rosa Ave., Santa Rosa, 707.206.0884

Tomatoes. Fresh peaches. Corn on the cob. Pretty much anything on the grill.

What are your favorite summer foods? You know, the stuff you dream about all winter. The stuff you buy in bulk when August hits. From insalata Caprese to peach pie and potato salad, tell BiteClub what you’re jonesin’ for. And, don’t forget to tell everyone where to get it!

Leave it to Francis Ford Coppola to set a scene.

Fade in on the director posed like a seersucker Santa waiting for Christmas. Three! Two! One! The crowd cheers and with a hearty tug, Coppola reveals the name of his new winery: Rosso & Bianco. On cue, the letters buzz to life in a red, neon glow and the satisfied Coppola walks silently off camera, stage left. And-cut.

So okay, it’s no Apocalypse Now. It is, however, a pretty enticing invitation to Frances’ new house in Geyserville, now that some of the dust has settled. BiteClub decided to take some brownies up to the new neighbors.

Though not much has changed outside, the interior has Coppola stamped all over it–from the Marie Antoinette-meets-The Godfather aesthetic (chateau chic with a side of marinara) to literally being peppered with well-wishing graffiti for the director’s recent birthday.

Wine gets the same treatment. Forget about getting any of that schwanky $120 Rubicon stuff here. They don’t sell it. Coppola’s Sonoma outpost is about easy-drinking sippers at paisan prices. At the spaghetti-and-meatballs end are his Bianco and Rosso wines, served free at the tasting bar in tumblers rather than stemware. Sophia bubblers and roses are wine crack for the donnas, all cute and pink and tulle-covered, while the Director’s Cut and funky FC Reserves make a quieter play for your attention.

But wine is only part of the show. Ever the pitchman, Coppola doesn’t miss an opportunity to sell you on his Mammarella line of pasta sauces; copies of his literary magazine, Zoetrope; tasteful goodies inspired by daughter, Sophia; movie memorabilia or his nifty line of Vinoflage clothing. Think camo for the vineyard-set. (The horror.)

Down the hallway, Coppola’s Unnamed Café is a temporary, but serviceable spot to grab a plate of fresh-cooked pasta or a panini on the deck. Plans are in the works for a full-service restaurant in the next year or so, though reviews have been somewhat unkind to his two previous Bay Area brasseries. Fingers crossed. Movie buffs shouldn’t miss Coppola’s Oscar display in the lobby, though most of the director’s film mementos (formerly housed in the Napa winery) aren’t yet on public display. Tours and tasting are offered daily.

Though it’s a bit early to say whether the new Rosso & Bianco Winery will be a SoCo hit or just another bit of Wine Country typecasting, so far it smells like victory. At least in the morning.

Rosso & Bianco Winery, 300 Via Archimedes, Geyserville, 707.857.1400

Taste of Havana?

BiteClub was recently tipped off that a Cuban restaurant is in the works in Sebastopol. Details are still sketchy, but word is that the spot will open sometime in October. I’m already getting itchy for a pressed sandwich. Stay tuned.

707’s Randy Lewis returns(ish)
It’s an understatement to say that Santa Rosa never quite embraced the forward-thinking (and admittedly often pricey) ideas of Chef Randy Lewis. As chef and co-owner of Popina and 707, this former “Best Chef of 2001” and K-J culinary wunderkind tried and failed, then tried and failed again to make a go of it in Sonoma County. Lewis has had the last laugh, winning three stars for his cuisine at SF’s Mecca restaurant and now turning his sights on Mendocino. Lewis will be consulting chef at the secluded Stevenswood Spa Resort (see a dinner menu), which has long had a reputation for top-notch dining. Lewis is also reportedly working on several other dining projects, ahem, none of which are around here. Yeah.

Closures
The Cheesemaker’s Daughter, the Sonoma cheese shop owned by Ditty Vella has closed, as has Zare Restaurant, a high-profile Mediterranean eatery in Napa.

Daily grind
I’m obsessed with peppermills. Yeah, it’s crazy, but addictive…
– First I wanted one of Pinky Martin’s. (Cha right).
-Then I was content with 19-layers of exotic hardwood. (Hint, my birthday is coming up.)
– Then I got really stoked about Vic Firth’s Mario Batali signature mill. Hey, it’s orange.
– This weekend, however, I found the ultimate. A little Pylones babushka peppermill (see right). Worth every cent of $40. They also have little wind-up birds that roll across the table, delivering salt and pepper. Awwwww. You can find many of the Pylones kitchen cuties at The Kitchen Gallery in Lakeport (707.262.0422) or through Pylones-usa.

UPDATE 6/18/2008: With regard to some twittering
I’ve been hearing about Sky Lounge at the Sonoma County Airport, here’s
the scoop straight from owner Jim Goff. He tells BiteClub that Ed
Metcalfe (of Shisho in Sonoma) who had a hand in the opening has not
been part of the restaurant since early on. In addition, Goff says
there are no plans to change or modify the current restaurant citing
his 15-year long-term lease. So, there you have it.

After months of anticipation Sky Lounge has opened for business in the Sonoma County Airport.

The second area restaurant for Shiso’s Ed Metcalfe (who runs a popular sushi-centric spot in Sonoma) the in-terminal eatery is primed to nab both hungry travelers and nearby office park workers starved for a decent lunch-break spot.

Jammed to capacity just a few hours after opening, Sky Lounge could easily become the next Jonesy’s–the Napa Airport’s popular steakhouse/meet-up spot. That’s the good news.

The bad news: At today’s liftoff the kitchen had yet to earn its wings.

Knowing Metcalfe’s passion for seafood, my instinct was to head straight for the shellfish. My instinct was wrong. Hold out for the sushi chef who arrives next week. Three of the six oysters I ordered off-menu were barely big enough to slip onto a fork and their $13 price tag wasn’t the only thing that left an unpleasant aftertaste in my mouth. I also made incorrect assumption that I’d be getting big, plump, local Hog Island oysters, but got a bill for Fanny Bays (which usually hail from the Pacific Northwest). Either way, disappointing.

The Soft Shell Crab BLT ($15) also sounded enticing with applewood smoked bacon, fried soft shell crab and wasabi mayonnaise on toasted brioche. It too left me cold and searching between the slices of bread, lettuce and tomato for the tiny bits of crab that ended up tasting bitter and fishy. The flavors just didn’t meld and the burned bits of toast clearly didn’t help.

Passing burgers looked solid, though they were as unimpressively plated as my own sandwich (white plate, no garnish) and with equally bland stacks of diner-worthy fries. I’ll accept that at $7. But not at $12 to $15, especially from someone like Metcalfe who clearly knows better. One bright spot was a beautiful dish of salmon (the day’s special) that passed by on the way to a lucky guest who’d ordered better than I had.

I also didn’t try the large plates of rib-eye, filet mignon, hangar steak and porterhouse. Prime cuts will run you between $24 and $32 with sides that include the aforementioned fries, mashed or roasted potatoes; creamed spinach, Brussels sprouts or carrots. That’s a heavy chunk of change for lunch and the sides seem deadly dull. I get the retro-chic of a blue cheese lettuce wedge. Brussels sprouts lack that clever irony.

But the news isn’t all bad. Even on the first day, wait staff were eager to please and well organized despite understandable opening snafus. I’m hopeful that the arrival of a sushi chef and the daily influx of more fresh seafood (there’s little on the opening menu) will bolster oceanic offerings and presentation will improve as the kitchen gets more comfortable with the menu.

In the end, I’d recommend giving Sky Lounge a little more time for some pre-flight checks. If you go, stick with the basics and enjoy the view–never mind a little engine spluttering.

Sky Lounge, Sonoma County Airport, 2200 airport blvd, suite 143, Santa Rosa, 707-542-9400

Is that a hint of Clear Lake I’m detecting in my wine?

Could be. If you’re drinking some of Napa and Sonoma’s most popular wines you may be getting more than just a whiff of Lake County grapes. With its hot summer days, accelerated growing season and cheap land (by northern California standards, at least), the vineyards around Clear Lake have, for years, been a bountiful source of grapes for Beringer, Kendall-Jackson, Fetzer, Mondavi and others.

Surprised? Join the crowd. Historically, Lake County grapes have been quietly blended with their swankier cousins in Napa and Sonoma, getting little label love. But that’s starting to change.

In the last five years, the number of wineries producing Lake County Wines has doubled–from just a handful to nearly 20. In total, approximately 10,000 acres of vineyards are now planted north of Sonoma and Napa counties and newcomers like Six Sigma Ranch, Zoom, Moore Family are names to watch, along with more established wineries Noggle and Brassfield.

One of the coolest places to check out local wines is the recently opened LC Wine Studio in Upper Lake. Featuring a stellar lineup of artisanal producers, the funky, concrete-floored studio (complete with an eager wine pup) caters to the urban-Euro guests of the nearby Tallman Hotel. The lineup includes a mind-boggling 13 wines from Six Sigma Ranch, Spencer-Roloson, Dusniberre Cellars, Noggle and Zoom (new owner and winemaker Matt Hughes helps man the tasting room).

So, is Clear Lake the next Napa? Yes and, uh, definitely no. Jim Fetzer’s Spanish villa/winery/organic gardens/resort community, Ceago, puts pretty much anything on Route 29 to shame. The boutique Tallman Hotel, lovingly resorted by a San Francisco couple, is an off-the-beaten path gem that’s single-handedly reinvigorating the town of Upper Lake. Tasting rooms in Kelseyville have a Calistoga-like vibe and, if you can find it, the Moore Family Winery has unbelievable hillside views.

Conversely, you’ll have a tough time finding top-notch restaurants, cult cabs and shopping that doesn’t include a Wal-Mart greeter.

Call Lake County a promising work-in-progress; a wine region just beginning to discover itself. It’s a place where winemaker-owners like Steve Moore greet you with a glad-to-meetcha handshake at the door. It’s where drinking Steele Winery’s Black Bubbles (think Syrah-flavored soda pop. Brilliant!) by the pool is perfectly okay. It’s a place where you can still get $5 corkage (Blue Wing Saloon & Café), discover a killer syrah (Spencer-Roloson, Moore), get a plate of eggs and hash browns with the locals (Judy’s Junction) and, at the end of the day, dip your toes in the lake. Even if it is a little green.

+++++

Ready to road trip? Upper Lake is about 2 hours from Santa Rosa and about three hours from San Francisco.

WHAT TO DRINK
In this rugged resort country, a longtime haven for boat-hauling families and the casino crowd, it’s somehow fitting that sauvignon blanc–the savage grape–is most identified with the region. But as the region matures, increasingly well-produced zinfandels, syrahs and cabernet sauvignons are taking center stage.

WHERE TO SIP
Lake County Wine Studio: Top-notch artisanal wines at this funky, friendly Upper Lake tasting room. 707.327.6680.

Moore Family Winery: Newly-opened family winery with spectacular views. High-elevation syrah and cabernet sauvignon. Bottle Rock Road, Kelsyville, 707.279.9279.

Steele Winery: Approachable, friendly wines from the man who invented (really) the buttery chardonnay. Former KJ winemaker Jed Steele offers up some tasty drink-em-now wines like the fragrant Steele Viognier and whimsically weird Black Bubbles Syrah. 4350 Thomas Dr. at Hwy 29, Kelseyville.

Ceago: Where else can you pull your jet-ski up to a winery? Jim Fetzer’s Spanish villa is a fantasy spot for sipping under the palm trees. Stroll through the gardens, then head to the tasting room for some biodynamic wines. The winery also has a café and picnic goodies. 5115 East Highway 20, Nice, 707.274.1462.

Wildhurst Vineyards: Downtown Kelseyville tasting room in the former Odd Fellow’s Hall. Don’t miss their sauvignon blanc. 3855 Main Street, Kelseyville, (800) 595-WINE (9463).

Also check out
Brassfield Estate Winery & Vineyards: Top-notch wines from the High Valley appellation. Call ahead, as the winery is sometimes closed. Sauvignon blanc, syrah and zinfandel are best bets. 10915 High Valley Road, Clearlake Oaks, 707.998-1895

Langtry Estate & Vineyards: It’s worth a side trip to the former Guenoc winery, which is part of the Lillie Langtry Estate. Stunning views and leafy arbors await you. Petite sirah and sauvignon blancs are hallmarks. 21000 Butts Canyon Rd, Middletown, 707-987-2385

WHERE TO EAT
Soda Bay*BEST BET* Watercolor Restaurant: It wasn’t until our second trip to Lake County that anyone mentioned this amazing little sleeper. Tucked into a small bayside resort, the spot is quiet and intimate, with just a handful of tables. The decor isn’t much, but the food is top-notch for the region and flavors are well-executed in the hands of the young, eager kitchen. There’s a focus on local, fresh ingredients and the restaurant offers local wines almost exclusively–most in the $25-$35 range. Even better, they’ve got most by the glass, so you can afford to adventurous. The menu changes up frequently, but on a recent visit we were impressed by everything we ordered: ahi tartare, rock shrimp and calamari fritto, St. Louis babyback ribs and a beautiful plate of seared scallops. With four glasses of wine and coffee, the bill was just over $100–high for Lake County, but more than reasonable for the quality of food, service and the romantic bay view. Weekend nights can be crowded, so its recommended that you make reservations. The restaurant also serves a hearty breakfast on weekends. Watercolor Restaurant, Ferdale Resort & Marina, 6190 Soda Bay Road, Soda Bay, 707.279.4866.

Middletown
Boar’s Breath Restaurant & Oven: Only open for dinner, this popular downtown Middletown restaurant has become an institution. And really, who can resist something calls Boar’s Breath onion soup? 21148 Calistoga Street, Middletown, 707-987-9491

Upper Lake
Blue Wing Saloon Café: Attached to the historic Tallman Hotel, this adorable outdoor café and bar has so much potential it hurts. Sit and sip local wines, listen to live music on the patio and stick to the basics–burgers and salads. BiteClub prays for the day some insightful chef decides to put this spot on the map. 9520 Main Street, Upper Lake, 707.275.2233

Judy’s Junction: Don’t miss breakfast at this down home diner. 375 E Highway 20 Spc 5, Upper Lake, 707.275.0905

Clearlake
Main Street Bar and Grill: Though most folks will tell you to steer clear of the down-and-out town of Clearlake, this sprawling grill serves up great burgers, milkshakes and fries with a smile. 14084 Lakeshore Dr., Clearlake, (707) 994-6450

Kelseyville
Saw Shop Gallery Bistro: Sushi meets lamb chops meets spinach ravioli. Wildly eclectic dining at one of the few upscale eateries in Clearlake. 3825 Main Street, Kelseyville, (707) 278.0129

Studebakers Coffee House: A charming sandwich, muffin and coffee spot bustling in the morning. 3990 Main St., Kelseyville, 707-279-8871

Lakeport
Lakeport English Inn: Bed and breakfast serving high tea. 675 N. Main St., Lakeport, 70
7.263.4317

Molly Brennans: Burgers, sandwiches and Irish pub food. Pour me a Guinness and what more could I possibly want? 175 N. Main St., Lakeport, 707.262.1600.

Park Place: Nice salads and sandwiches by the lake. 50 3RD St., Lakeport, (707) 263-0444

STAY
Tallman Hotel: Recently renovated boutique hotel with all the modern amenities. Some rooms have outdoor showers and Japanese soaking tubs; super-comfy beds; charming gardens, pool. Serious country chic. 9550 Main Street, Upper Lake, 707.275.2244

Featherbed Railroad Company: May I show you to your caboose? Movie-themed railroad cars (Casa Blanca, Orient Express, even the Easy Rider) are outfitted with beds, bathtubs and all the modern comforts for your private luxury. No children under 12. 2870 Lakeshore Blvd. Nice, 1-800-966-6322

Let them eat faux gras
When chefs in Chicago were banned from using foie gras in their restaurant, they got creative. Instead of prized duck liver (the animals are force-fed to artificially enlarge the liver), they’re using everything from chicken livers to garbanzo beans to approximate the taste and texture. A recipe for chicken liver faux gras can be found in Michel Richard’s Happy in the Kitchen Cookbook (or here) . So far, Spiaggia’s chef Tony Mantuano hasn’t divulged his secret for vegetarian faux gras, though he says it includes garbanzo beans, vin santo and lots of butter. Listen to his discussion of faux gras on NPR.

Moonshinin’
I have a rule. If I hear about something three times in three days, then it’s probably a trend to pay attention to. Moonshine has popped onto my radar countless times in the last few weeks. Enough times, in fact, that I’m headed to SR’s Beverage People to check out a New Zealand book called The Compleat Distiller. Though running your own still remains illegal in the US (yes, illegal kids-one bad batch and you can go blind), I’m saying here and now that home-brewed spirits are my pick for DIY-trend of the year. Anyone for Meyer Lemon-infused hootch? And hey, if the whole moonshine thing doesn’t work out, you can always use your still to make your own gasoline. Read the distilling FAQ

Cheese so stinky it’s illegal
Epoisse is an artisinal French cheese from Burgundy that’s so incredibly odoriferous that it’s banned on the Paris metro. It also happens to be banned in the US (at least in its original raw-milk form) because, well, a handful of people died from a food-borne illness associated with unpasteurized milk cheeses. Sheesh. More people have died from tainted hamburgers than stinky cheese, folks. I’ve been obsessing about this washed-rind cheese since reading about it in The Devil’s Picnic: Around the World in Pursuit of Forbidden Fruit by Taras Grescoe. Though I hear its not nearly as stinky or delightful (or deadly), you can buy pasteurized Epoisse at Oliver’s for between $6 and $8 per slice. Just don’t try to take it on the Metro.

So sinful it SHOULD be illegal
The final buzz of the week is about Bacon Salt. Despite the fact that some naysayers in New York have declared that the whole artisinal bacon trend has “jumped the shark”, there are those among us that will never, ever, EVER grow tired of the world’s most delightful food. Bacon, that is. And though I’d rather eat glass than put a Baco-Bit in my mouth ever again, the idea of Bacon Salt (basically bacon-flavored, uh, salt) has its appeal. Sprinkle it on your hamburger, your grilled cheese, your ice cream or, well, even your bacon. Because everything really should taste like bacon.

Big changes for the Carneros Inn’s FARM restaurant. Opening chef Kimball Jones, formerly of Campton Place has departed. Jeff Jake, who recently jumped ship after opening Bar Vino in Calistoga (while doing double duty as Brannan’s exec. chef) has been named as executive chef for the Inn (which includes Boon Fly Cafe, FARM and the private dining program). Angele’s Christopher Gerard will serve as FARM’s chef de cuisine.