Top 25 Restaurants: Destination-worthy dining

best25a.jpgWhat sounded like a ridiculously simple task turns out to be nothing of the sort. Like choosing a favorite child, I’ve struggled with who to include and not include on this list — adding names, taking away names, re-adding names. And I’m sure I’ll be taken to task for many of my choices.

There are so many factors to include: Innovative menus, use of local ingredients, consistently good cooking, wine lists and the restaurant’s staying power. But when it came right down to having to put together a final list of names, what I came back to again and again were restaurants with a guiding forces in the kitchen. Chef-driven restaurants with a clear point of view.

In order to keep the list to 25, I’ve had to make some other qualifications. For the purpose of this list, I’ve excluded restaurants (like Chloe’s French Cafe and Dierk’s Parkside) that have limited hours though they’re clearly worthy of note.

Ethnic and cheap-eats restaurants are also in short-supply, which I’ll explain by saying that this list is primarily focused on restaurants with classic French or Italian influences that have define the California Wine Country culinary experience.

That leaves a whole lot of restaurants off the list. Restaurants like Rocker Oysterfeller’s (which I love for oysters and brunch), Peter Lowell’s (amazing pizzas, veggie-centri, conscious eating), Humble Pie (homemade pies and comfort food), Pamposh (top-notch Indian) and Bruno’s (a favorite neighborhood spot) have so much to offer, as do local taquerias like Las Palmas. These are among the restaurants that defy conventional wisdom and are re-invigorating the local culinary scene. So stay tuned for another list…

There are others that have had recent chef changes (French Garden, Barndiva) that are also worthy of attention but still need settling-in time (maybe next year!)

But at some point, I had to put a stake in the ground. Some were easy picks. Others harder. But ultimately the list has been chosen. Here are BiteClub’s 25 Top Sonoma County Restaurants for 2009… 
Continue reading “Top 25 Restaurants: Destination-worthy dining”

Top 25 Restaurants 2009: Your votes

The big news here…the biggest vote-getter in the reader-generated votes for Top Restaurants 2009 was “other.” That tells me there are a whole lot of restaurants out there that folks have personal affection for. I’ve added many of those you’ve requested, though adding them all proves almost impossible.

Voting will continue, but as of August 8, 2009 with more than 21,000 votes, here are the standings.

Other answer…     1844     9%              
    Osake (Santa Rosa)     1001     5%             
    Girl and the Fig (Sonoma)     782     4%             
    Willi’s Wine Bar (Santa Rosa)     638     3%             
    Cyrus (Healdsburg)     629     3%             
    Underwood Bar & Bistro (Graton)     597     3%             
    Willi’s Seafood & Raw Bar (Healdsburg)     568     3%             
    Rosso Pizzeria (Santa Rosa)     557     3%             
    John Ash & Co. (Santa Rosa)     537     3%             
    Farmhouse Inn (Forestville)     533     2%             
    La Gare (Santa Rosa)     500     2%             
    Syrah (Santa Rosa)     456     2%             
    Zin (Healdsburg)     447     2%             
    Sugo Trattoria (Petaluma)     436     2%             
    Zazu (Santa Rosa)     436     2%             
    Cucina Paradiso (Petaluma)     422     2%             
    Madrona Manor (Healdsburg)     410     2%             
    Sea Thai Bistro (Santa Rosa/Petaluma)     409     2%             
    Ume (Windsor)     395     2%             
    Mirepoix (Windsor)     392     2%             
    Ravenous (Healdsburg)     386     2%             
    Monti’s (Santa Rosa)     367     2%             
    Dry Creek Kitchen (Healdsburg)     363     2%             
    Santi (Geyserville)     359     2%             
    Cafe Citti (Kenwood)     325     2%             
    Stark’s Steakhouse (Santa Rosa)     306     1%             
    Applewood Inn (Guerneville)     292     1%             
    Ca’Bianca (Santa Rosa)     282     1%             
    Chloe’s French Cafe (Santa Roa)     282     1%             
    Central Market (Petaluma)     274     1%             
    Bistro Des Copains (Occidental)     264     1%             
    Mosaic (Forestville)     263     1%             
    Fig Cafe (Glen Ellen)     259     1%             
    Estate (Sonoma)     259     1%             
    Lococo’s (Santa Rosa)     254     1%             
    Scopa (Healdsburg)     246     1%             
    Bistro29 (Santa Rosa)     219     1%             
    Cafe Saint Rose (Sebastopol)     216     1%             
    Bistro Ralph (Healdsburg)     215     1%             
    Cafe La Haye (Sonoma)     204     1%             
    Charcuterie (Healdsburg)     204     1%             
    El Dorado Kitchen (Sonoma)     200     1%             
    Barndiva (Healdsburg)     196     1%             
    Diavola (Geyserville)     179     1%             
    Flavor Bistro (Santa Rosa)     170     1%             
    Bruno’s on Fourth (Santa Rosa)     159     1%             
    Restaurant Eloise (Sebastopol)     158     1%             
    Rocker Oysterfeller’s (Valley Ford)     155     1%             
    Sassafrass (Santa Rosa)     138     1%             
    La Salette (Sonoma)     134     1%             
    Glen Ellen Inn (Glen Ellen)     133     1%            &nb
sp;
    
French Garden (Sebastopol)     129     1%             
    Starlight Wine Bar (Sebastopol)     122     1%             
    Della Santina (Sonoma)     120     1%             
    Hana Japanese     118     1%             
    Saddles/MacArther Place (Sonoma)     113     1%             
    Josef’s (Santa Rosa)     112     1%             
    Cafe Europe (Santa Rosa)     102     0%             
    Harvest Moon Cafe (Sonoma)     98     0%             
    Cena Luna (Healdsburg)     96     0%             
    Manzanita (Healdsburg)     95     0%             
    Red Grape Pizza (Sonoma)     94     0%             
    Gohan Sushi (Petaluma)     89     0%             
    Riviera Ristaurante (Santa Rosa)     82     0%             
    The Duck Club (Bodega Bay)     81     0%             
    Doce Lunas (Kenwood)     78     0%             
    Peter Lowell’s (Sebastopol)     76     0%             
    Le Bistro (Petaluma)     71     0%             
    Nonni’s Ristaurante Italiano (SR)     68     0%             
    Bluegrass BBQ (Glen Ellen)     49     0%             
    Saffron (Glen Ellen)     47     0%             
    Carneros Bistro (Sonoma)     46     0%             
    Terrapin Creek (Bodega Bay)     42     0%             
    Sante-Sonoma Mission Inn     14     0%

Julie/Julia premieres @ Hollywood & Wine launch in Hbrg

julia.jpgIt’s long been thought, at least by me, that a glass of wine might really improve the whole movie-going experience. Not to mention a decent sandwich and a seat that doesn’t have Junior Mints stuck to it. And poof, Hollywood & Wine appears on the scene.

The idea: Show first-run flicks with a decent glass of SoCo wine in plush leather seats with something other than greasy popcorn. The theater/wine bar concept kicks off on August 7 (Friday night) at the Raven Film Center in Healdsburg with — appropriately  — a showing of Julie & Julia, a film with Meryl Streep as Julia Child and Amy Adams portraying a whiny food blogger. Yeah, I said it.

Word is Hollywood & Wine is planning to have goodies from Costeaux Bakery and some local beers as well. Score.  415 Center St., Healdsburg, 522-0330.

++++
UPDATE: BiteClub’s 10 second review of Julie & Julia….

So, I skipped out of work on Friday to see the show (along with a whole lot of senior citizens).

And while I stick to my assertion that the Julie Powell portion is about as irritating as a rusty cheese grater to the eyeball, there were a few moments of brilliance. Like when her husband accuses her of being overly self-involved in her blog. And when she wonders if anyone is reading. And when she gets really excited when people comment. And when, again, her husband deals out a little reality check when it comes to her “fans” actually caring about the blog. Um, yeah. Self-involved food blogger who gets serious reality checks from significant other? Sounds a little familiar.

What makes the movie worth the $7.50 you’re going to spend seeing it at the bargain matinee is Meryl Streeps hysterical, dead-on performance as Julia Child. Brilliant. Almost makes you a little ashamed to be stuffing those Good & Plenty’s into your maw while she’s savoring buerre blanc.

Tell me what you thought? Looking for showtimes?

Secrets from inside the kitchen

chef2.jpgEver wonder what happens behind the kitchen doors at your favorite restaurant? Confused about tipping protocol or whether it’s okay to ask for something off-menu? How do you know if a restaurant is sanitary or what to do if you find a bug in your food? BiteClub gets the down and dirty from local chefs Josh Silvers of Syrah Bistro, Mark Malicki of Cafe Saint Rose, Mark Dierkhising of Dierk’s Parkside Cafe and Betsy Fischer, culinary educator, consultant and manager of the Santa Rosa Junior College Cafe, on what’s really happening behind the scenes.

What happens when I send food back to the kitchen?
It depends why you’ve sent it back and if you’ve eaten off the plate.  If your meat isn’t cooked through (or to your degree of done-ness), the kitchen will likely do a “re-fire” which means throwing it back on the grill to cook it more. This is a matter of some controversy, because if you’ve stuck your fork into it and taken a few bites, it’s a health issue to put it back on the grill. Usually it’s the call of the chef.

If you’ve sent it back for another reason, most likely you’ll get an entirely new entrĂ©e. Again, it depends on how much you’ve eaten and whether you have a legit gripe or are just being stinky. Obviously eating half your dinner and then sending it back is pretty uncool.

What if there’s a bug in my food?
It’s not that uncommon to find a little critter in organic salad greens, chefs tell me. Usually they’re small and harmless. It’s not necessarily a reflection on the sanitary conditions of the restaurant. Finding bugs (especially roaches) or other unwanted yuckiness should definitely be reported to management and the food sent back.

How do I know if the place I’m eating is sanitary?
In Southern California, restaurants are given a grade “A”, “B” or “C” that they are required to post on their door so patrons know the score. There’s been considerable industry push-back against this in Northern California. Want to know if your fave spot makes the grade? The Sonoma County Department of Health Services maintains current violations for all restaurants at food.sonoma-county.org. You can also click on the “Food Safety Recognition of Excellence” winners to see who’s received outstanding food safety records.

Will they spit in my food if I send it back?
I can’t say this never happens. But it doesn’t occur, as movies might want us to think, all that often. Insiders say they’ve never witnessed the “special saucing” of a customer it in years of restaurant service at higher end restaurants. There’s too much on the line and its juvenile. That doesn’t mean bad customers always have the last word. A few chefs I talked to aren’t shy about having a straightforward dialogue with particularly difficult patrons.
Continue reading “Secrets from inside the kitchen”

Sam Sifton named to NYTimes Dining Critic post

sifton.jpgNYTimes culture editor Sam Sifton will be the guy who replaces Frank Bruni as top diner for the Times. And already the Tweetosphere is patting itself on the back.

The NY Observer broke the news, and photos of Sifton are everywhere. Meaning that supposed “anonymity” of the dining critic has officially gone the way of the dinosaur. Amen to that, though Sifton looks like maybe he could use a wig or two to warm up that bald head of his.

Bloggers like Seriouseats.com and Feedbag say Sifton’s appointment is a good thing — he’s a good writer and a straight shooter as at ease with pizza as foie gras. Another good thing to hear.

In a smart move, the NYTimes has already posted a Q&A with Sifton on how he’s preparing for the job and what he currently weighs. I’m already endeared to him as he responds to a reader who says they like tacos. “Dude. Me, too.”

(PS…get over thinking i’m shilling for the NYTimes, who own the Press Democrat. They opted to cut my pay 2.5% last year, so, um…yeah. I did get a very nice note from Arthur Sulzberger Jr., however, when I recently won an award. So there’s that.)

Restaurant Secrets: Your say

waiter.jpgOkay, so here’s a shout out to the community…

What are secrets from inside the kitchens of Wine Country restaurants you’d
love to know?

– Wondering what happens to that uneaten bread you left
behind?
– How much to tip? Is 18% appropriate? And who gets those tips anyway?
– How to get the best service?
– How do restaurants decide what to charge for corkage? And why do they charge at all?
– What’s with the butcher paper thing?
– What is the best day to order seafood?
– What’s the best way to eat alone?
– How can I get the best thing on the menu?
– What the heck is mis en place?

Let me know what you’re clamoring to have uncovered.

{NOTE: This is not a space to air your dirty laundry or just be belligerent. I will delete posts that are off-topic, don’t contribute to the spirit of this post or are just plain ignorant. }

Azzuro Pizzeria e Enoteca Napa


Azzuro Pizzeria e Enoteca
: A new location on Main Street has meant even more fans for the longtime Sicilian-style pizza spot. The menu has continued to evolve, with of-the-moment specials (grilled peaches, tomatoes and ricotta in late July is heaven) along with weighty dinner specials like ribeye steak.
1260 Main Street
Napa, CA 94559-2637
(707) 255-5552

Norman Rose Tavern | Napa

Norman rose fish and chips
Fish and Chips at the Norman Rose


Norman rose fish and chips
Fish and Chips at the Norman Rose

The Norman Rose Tavern in Napa has solid chops both behind the bar and in the kitchen. The owners of popular Azzurro Pizzeria lend their culinary chops to a retro-modern American menu that speaks directly to the “oh I really shouldn’t, but I will” part of the soul.
Best bets include a Buttermilk Fried Chicken sandwich with Watercress and peppercorn mayo ($10.95); moist Five Dot Ranch burgers (with add-ons like a fried egg or avocado relish); beer-battered fish and chips ($15.95) with shoestring fries; “Frank’s Frito Burgers” (sliders made with crushed Fritos) and Fatted Calf beef hot dogs.
On the lighter side: Plan to have your split pea with ham hock soup pilfered by curious tablemates (it’s that good). Tavern Chop Salad ($12.95) with shredded chicken and candied walnuts and Crab Louie are worth a second trip. Kids are welcome to the table, and root beer comes on tap.
1401 1st Street, Napa, 258-1516.

Jellies, jams & condiments in Sonoma County

jam.jpgMaking jam in a hot summer kitchen can be one of the stickiest, sweatiest, most miserable jobs ever. But opening a jar in the doldrums of winter, and tasting the ripe, sweet moment of strawberry, peach or plum perfection makes any amount of suffering instantly forgotten.

Why not enjoy the fruits another’s labor?. BiteClub seeks out sweet and savory preserves that always taste like summer.

It seems fitting to start with Leon Day, who introduces you to his products not with just a story, but a ripping-good tale. As in: “While I was traveling with the nomads in the Sinai desert..” goes the pitch to his Heaven’s Necter (sic), a tonic made from squeezing four pounds of dates into 12 tiny ounces of distilled perfection.

Not into dates? No worries. Day produces more than 100 different jams, jellies, chutneys, sauces and miscellaneous condiments, many of which he sells each Saturday at the Santa Rosa Farmer’s Market, and on Sundays and Thursdays in Marin. You can taste through as many as your sweet-tooth will allow. Each visitor to the stand gets a plastic spoon onto which tiny squirts and squeezes of his goods fall. Some of the most popular flavors: A sweet-tart strawberry cranberry jam, pear-ginger-vanilla jam, peanut satay sauce, a teriyaki-esque Pacific Gourmet sauce and Major Day’s mango chutney.

Day, who was once part of the Grateful Dead entourage, has been making his condiments since 1983, when — or so the story goes — he took over the kitchen of an Indian restaurant and improved upon their chutney. Twenty six years later, he continues to tinker and experiment with new flavors, adding to his ever-expanding universe condiments. Each with its own story. chutneyman.com, or at the Saturday Santa Rosa Farmer’s Market, 8am to noon.
Continue reading “Jellies, jams & condiments in Sonoma County”

Iron Chef Morimoto opening restaurant in Napa

morimoto.jpgWord is out that Iron Chef Masaharu Morimoto has signed on to open a contemporary Japanese restaurant in Napa’s Riverfront development. SF Eater and The North Bay Bohemian both have bits on it today, but apparently this wasn’t news to Napans…Thirsty Reader reported that the deal had been inked more than a month ago.

<UPDATE> So here’s a little bit more juiciness…
It sounds as if Morimoto won’t just be a figurehead at yet another celeb-chef restaurant. The company that does the retail leasing says Morimoto is looking to possibly purchase a condo in the development and has “fallen in love with Napa.” “He’s going to be here a lot. He’s decided he’d rather spend time in Napa than in Las Vegas or San Francisco,” according to spokesman Craig Semmelmeyer. The other big news is that yet another big name is expected to be announced in the development. Hmmmm.

Morimoto is about as big as big gets in the celeb chef world. Though his TV presence is limited (his English isn’t ready for prime time) he’s been featured on Iron Chef America and the original Japanese version of Iron Chef. He’s also the star-power behind several restaurants back east.

Does anyone remember the first season of Next Food Network Star when he scoffed at contestants trying to bone a fish. <Shudder>