If Larry Vito isn’t the most dedicated pit-master in Sonoma County, I’d be hard-pressed to tell you who is. The classically-trained chef has turned all of his attentions toward the art of the ‘cue, using real hardwood, specialty smokers and creating his own authentic sauces from barbecue regions around the country.
“And then it happened. On a paper plate. In a strip mall, somewhere in East Texas. I knew I’d found my calling,” Vito says on his website. What makes Vito unique, however, is his ever-expanding menu.
In addition to Carolina pulled pork sliders, Memphis BBQ, barbecued tri-tip, Texas Beef Brisket, southern barbecued chicken, collard greens and cowboy beans, Vito now offers smoked tofu and a barbecued portobello mushroom for the less carnivorous among us. Don’t miss his brandied bread pudding and monthly Smokin’ Saturday where Vito roastings everything from a whole hog to goat.
Years ago on my first trip to Italy, we stumbled across a quaint little bistro where the specialty of the house was “lettuce ravioli”. Lettuce? Ravioli? Merely to satisfy our curiosity, we ordered a dish with low expectations. Instead, we ended up eating one of the most memorable meals of our lives, fighting over dish after dish of this light, airy pasta covered with a spring green sauce.
All of which is to say, never under-estimate the power of lettuce.
And though terrines may seem a bit dated, the mixture of eggs, lettuce (I used some leftover gourmet mix with curly red lettuces, spinach and butter lettuce) and cheese make an easy-to-prepare-ahead dish that’s delicious cold.
Trentino Terrine
from Ramona Crinella
This dish is very light and makes a special brunch dish. And no, the addition of four cups of lettuce is not a mistake.
Recipe
1/4 cup shredded Swiss cheese
6 eggs
1 cup cream
few grates of nutmeg
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/8 teaspoon freshly grated pepper
4 tablespoons flour
4 cups lettuce, washed, dried thoroughly and shredded
butter
Preheat oven to 325 degrees. Put eggs, cream, nutmeg, salt, pepper, nutmeg in a bowl and beat with electric mixer while adding flour a little at a time. Fold in lettuce and cheese. Butter a loaf pan and put in mixture. Bake until a silver knife comes out just about clean, about fifty minutes. (It will cook a little more after it comes out of the oven.)
Let cool a little and unmold.
Garnish terrine slices with the following sauce.
2 large onions
4 good sized tomatoes
2 bell peppers
2 cloves garlic
Freshly grated pepper
salt to taste
1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar
olive oil
Cut peppers in half and put on grill or under broiler until skins are blackened.
Put a layer of oil in bottom of roasting pan. Peel onions, cut in half and put in pan, along with cored, halved tomatoes. Add salt and freshly grated pepper. Roast in 450 degree oven for twenty minutes. Add garlic and continue roasting, turning occasionally until skins are browned. Do not let garlic get too brown. Put peppers in a plastic bag and let cool. Remove peppers from bag. If you are using as a sauce keep the pepper juices for thinning. Remove skins and seeds and put into blender along with other ingredients. Blend until a paste. Correct seasonings. If using as a filling or spread remove and serve. If using as a sauce add pepper juices and blend.
Serve this over a slice of the terrine.
This is my very favorite breakfast recipe mainly because it starts with “get your sh!t together”. Submitted by the venerable Miriam Donaldson of Blue Label Cafe (and Humble Pie), she’s a creative, free-thinking kind of baker who thinks in broad strokes rather than exacting recipes. Use the farm market as inspiration and load up this freeform strata with whatever sounds good — from stinging nettles to Douglas fir tips. For simpler tastes, just use what’s on hand: Onions, mushrooms, asparagus…
This recipe is also great for using up leftover bits of cheese — Parmesan, brie, Jack, or whatever you have.
Get Your Sh!t Together Bread & Egg Strata
1. Get your sh!t together:
9 inch springform pan
As much torn up old bread as it takes to fill said pan (Della Fattoria if you can)
Hella veg, cheese, whatever there is, especially anything from the garden, because that sh!t is good
Heavy cream (at least a pint)
7 eggs…check fridge for contraband eggs (eggs from Tara’s ducks are flippin good)
salt, pepper and anything else you can get your hands on
2. Combine all that together. Make it a little gooier than you think it aught to be.
3. Let it sit in it’s own goo all night (dont put it in the spring from yet, because it will seep out and get the fridge dirty and then everybody will be mad at you for being a slob)
4. Smoosh all that good stuff into the springform pan and pack it in pretty well.
5. Bake that sucker for about an hour at about 400 degrees until it doesnt jiggle.
6. Let rest for about 10 minutes before popping the springform.
*I do of course realize that this is more of a poem than a recipe…but it is, for better or worse, how most all of our recipes at Blue Label are written *lol*
Today I will make my Strata with butter fried Douglas Fir tips, wasabi lettuce flowers and parmesan cheese and top it off with housemade Bacon Salt. …yup bacon salt.
I have this entirely unscientific and largely baseless hypothesis that people who make a habit of cooking savory tend to be ill-suited to producing sweets, and conversely. Pressed, I’d argue that my imagined Mason-Dixon line between pastry and the hotline has more to do with temperament than temperature, possibly, even, reducible to one’s relative proclivity or aversion to measuring spoons, candy thermometers, and whether or not one gives a poo about things like ambient humidity. Whatever the reason, in our house at least, we’ve established a clear division of labor: my wife bakes pie, I braise shanks, and more often than not, we eat pretty well.
But sometimes, to my wife’s inevitable annoyance, I get a wild hair up my nose to stage an incursion into her established territory and I try to construct a palatable dessert. More often than not, it’s because said dessert involves something I like that she doesn’t: bacon (she’s a veg), strawberries (she can’t abide them), or – the cornerstone of today’s missive – gelatin (not only is she a veg, but she can’t stand the wiggly, pudding-like texture of gelatin-based anything). And so it was, midway through our most recent jar of Rian’s exceptionally sweet Sonoma County goat’s milk, that I thought of David Lebovitz’s panna cotta recipe, the first line of which summarily describes the only desserts I’m conceivably qualified to attempt:
Panna cotta is incredibly easy to make, and if it takes you more than five minutes to put it together, you’re doing something wrong.
And while we’ve all read some cookbook or another that claims that all home cooks should be able to accomplish the most technically difficult tasks in their sleep, the truth of the matter – and I say this as one who is unabashedly challenged by all manner of dessert cookery – is that he’s right. If you’ve never made panna cotta before, by all means, please do so, post haste. Particularly with berry season around the corner…
Goat's Milk Panna Cotta w/ Vanilla Bean and Fresh Bourbon-Soaked Cherries
Note: I tried making this with 100% goat’s milk and it wouldn’t set properly; I believe (but cannot substantiate) that a panna cotta needs a minimum of fat to achieve the proper texture. I made it a few more times, and found that you really need 50% goat’s milk for the taste and color to shine, and that that means you want the other 50% to be heavy cream, like the awesome stuff from Straus Family Creamery right here in the County.
6-8 servings
Of the many things to recommend Panna Cotta is its demand to be made ahead of time – ideally, in fact, two days ahead, kept tightly covered and chilled.
2 cups fresh goat’s milk + 2 cups heavy cream
1/2 cup white sugar
1 vanilla bean, split lengthwise (or sub 2 teaspoons of vanilla extract, but the real thing is worth the extra cost and effort)
2 tablespoons powdered gelatin
6 tablespoons cold water
1. Add the scraped-out seeds from the vanilla bean, the bean’s husk, the sugar, and the cream to a saucepan, cover, and warm over very low heat, at least 30mins, to allow the vanilla to infuse and the sugar to melt.
2. Lightly oil eight custard cups with a neutral-tasting oil. (Alternatively, and what I do as a matter of course, is pour the pudding into wine or martini glasses, and serve it that way, too.)
3. Sprinkle the gelatin over the cold water in a medium-sized bowl and let stand 5 to 10 minutes.
4. Pour the very warm Panna Cotta mixture over the gelatin and stir until the gelatin is completely dissolved.
5. Divide the Panna Cotta mixture into the prepared cups, then chill them until firm, which will take at least two hours but I let them stand at least six hours. (Note: Longer is better. Also, when the liquid is warm and thin, the vanilla seeds will all sink to the bottom. If you want the classic look, and why not, I’ve found you have to first cool the mixture in the fridge until it just begins to set, maybe 1-2 hours, before it really comes together but when it’s thick enough to suspend the seeds, and then stir it well to distribute the seeds, and then finally pour into the glasses or custard cups.)
6. Run a sharp knife around the edge of each Panna Cotta and unmold each onto a serving plate, or serve straight up in glasses.
Panna Cotta is at its best, in my opinion, with garnish of fresh fruit. I used fresh cherries, soaked in a little bourbon and sugar (pit, sprinkle w/ sugar, drizzle w/ bourbon – you’re done!), because they’re in season, and go beautifully with vanilla. But I think the dish will be even better later in the summer, when I can serve the little puddings under a blanket of fresh mixed berries, maybe with a little red wine syrup…
If you haven’t been up to Healdsburg lately, you probably haven’t seen the major expansion of popular seafood eatery Willi’s Seafood. Along with an expanded seafood bar and open prep area, they’ve added steamer pots to the menu — mussels, oysters, clams or crab legs swimming in PBR, green garlic butter and Old Bay. Make sure to get a side of sourdough to mop up all that tasty seafood broth. More best bets: Flash fried calamari with sweet chili sauce and Tuna Tartare with Jalapenos, cashews, ginger and coconut milk served on taro chips.
Since writing about the changes at Rendez Vous Bistro in Santa Rosa a few weeks back, it’s come to BiteClub’s attention that there are, well, continuing changes afoot.
After hearing considerable chatter in the food community about staff changes at the restaurant, BiteClub contacted owner Nino Rabbaa who said, “We are changing up the management team to make things more consistent at the restaurant.”
That includes a chef change. Current Chef de Cuisine Matthew Karson has announced his exit, but is remaining to help with the transition. Rabbaa said he is already in discussions with another local chef and Karson is leaving on good terms — at least from his perspective. Several other staff have also made recent exits.
The changes also include a likely closure of the restaurant this summer to “remodel the restaurant for a better flow,” said Rabbaa. “There are physical problems with the floorplan and we’re remodeling,” he added. Rabbaa plans for the closure to be about seven days. “We cannot afford to close longer.” He hopes to create a to-go window for sandwiches and change the front bar area of the restaurant into more of a lounge atmosphere.
That leaves the question of Flipside, Rabbaa’s forthcoming haute burgery which was slated to open this summer. Rabbaa said the restaurant is still in development but may be pushed back slightly. “We want to get things right,” he said.
Mr. Pickles Sandwich Shop in downtown Santa Rosa has rather suddenly changed to Mom & Pop’s Sandwich Shop.
“We just de-franchised,” said one of the sandwich makers by way of explanation. That means that other than a few menu changes, it’s still basically the same place.
The revamped lunchtime spot now features seven sandwiches inspired by local school mascots, including the Santa Rosa High School Mighty Panther (roast beef, olives, horseradish and Swiss cheese); Newman Cardinal (turkey, cranberry sauce and mozzarella), Little Lobo (turkey, bacon, avocado and cream cheese) and J.C. Helicopter (pastrami, bacon, pepper, jack and Swiss).
The restaurant also has hot dogs and corn dogs, along with an a la carte sandwich menu. And if you’re craving one of the old Mr. Pickles sandwiches (like the Hot T), they can probably still make it for you — they’ll just have to call it something else. Starting at 10am you can also get breakfast ‘wiches. Oh, and yes, you still get a free a cookie.
Dogs are welcome at Occidental’s Howard’s Station Cafe. (Heather Irwin/PD)
Dogs are welcome at Occidental's Howard's Station Cafe
Do you dogatarian? Here in Wine Country, four-legged friends can get downright gourmet at restaurants that not only welcome dogs, but even have specialized menus for your pup. As the weather turns warmer, outside patios are the perfect spot for a nosh with man’s best friend. Want to share a toast? There are plenty of wineries that welcome dogs as well (including one that has a “Yappy Hour”). Here’s a handy list of dog-friendly spots around Sonoma County.
Howard’s Station Cafe
This Occidental breakfast and lunch institution has a pooch-approved menu that includes ham and eggs, the bow-wow burger, kibbles and gravy and even peanut-butter filled squeak toys. “Customers frequently asked for side dishes for their dogs,” said owner Terry Martin. She recently added the specialized menu of canine-friendly foods for dog-owners who are welcomed on the restaurant’s open-air front porch. “We’re a destination restaurant near the coast, and a lot of people have dogs with them,” she said. After a hiker recently showed up with a thirsty dog companion, the idea gelled and will soon expand to include frozen dog pops. Well-behaved furry companions are served their suppers in special dog bowls next to the owners’ tables. For humans, the restaurant’s specialties include eggs Benedict (with fresh eggs from the Martin’s nearby farm), doughnut milkshakes, and a hearty granola bake with fresh bananas, cream and syrup. 3611 Bohemian Highway Occidental, CA 95465 – (707) 874-2838
Not sure about dogging dining rules? In California, health department laws only permit licensed guide animals inside restaurants. However, pet-friendly restaurant owners can legally allow dogs (and other well-tempered pets) to join their owners in certain outdoor areas. Keep in mind that not everyone will be thrilled to see your drooling darling, so it’s important to be respectful of non-pet owners and make sure you animal is well-groomed and well-mannered. You are ultimately responsible for its behavior and clean-up. Keep your dog out of aisles, closely leashed and out of the path of curious children who may inadvertently poke or upset your pup.
Garden Court Cafe and Bakery
This cozy Glen Ellen eatery also has a specialized menu for doggies that includes it’s signature Bleu Plate Special (eggs, ground beef, garlic and zucchini), egg whites with ground turkey, and a Babaloo Pizza (biscuit crust with catsup, jack cheese and fresh herbs). Dog cookies and water bowls are complimentary. 13647 Arnold Dr., Glen Ellen, 935-1565. Closed Tuesdays.
Pet-Friendly Restaurants
These restaurants may not have a special menu, but welcome dogs on the patio and will often have a treat or water bowl ready for Fido.
Barndiva
A quiet outdoor garden is a restful downtown Healdsburg sanctuary for man and beast alike. (231 Center St., Healdsburg, 707.431.0100).
Willi’s Seafood and Raw Bar
The recently-expanded restaurant (403 Healdsburg Ave, Healdsburg, 707.433.9191) has a cozy patio that’s dog friendly. Stop in to Fideaux next door for a menagerie of squeak toys, collars, outfits and other pet-accessories for the well-heeled pet. (43 North Street, Healdsburg, 433-9935.
Five Guys Burgers and Fries
A large outdoor area makes for pet-friendly dining. The wafting smell of cooking meat is sure to drive you both wild. 2280 Mendocino Avenue, Santa Rosa, 528-2507.
Hopmonk Sebastopol
Dogs are allowed in the Beer Garden at the Sebastopol outpost of Gordon Biersch’s plucky brewpub. Keep in mind that while some dogs may dig the taste of beer, it’s probably not a good idea to share your pint. 230 Petaluma Ave,. Sebastopol, 829-7300.
Rosso Pizzeria and Wine Bar
You’ll often find a relaxing dog or two on the small patio of this Santa Rosa pizzeria. A table and chairs are set out on the sidewalk, along with a water bowl or two, to let pet parents know it’s okay to bring along their dog here. 53 Montgomery Drive, Santa Rosa, (707) 544-3221.
Share a toast with Fido: A number of wineries allow dogs on the grounds, and even into the tasting room.
Lambert Bridge Winery (4085 W. Dry Creek Rd Healdsburg, 800.975.0555) is one of the most welcoming, hosting summertime Yappy Hours and Pizzas from 4:30-6:30pm each month. Owners indulge in wood-fired pizzas and wines while pups can sniff and mingle in the gardens.
Mutt Lynch Winery is all about dogs, from its labels to it’s welcoming stance on dogs. Owners said, “We’ll even do special events for your four legged friend – birthdays, “puppy” showers, even “Bark” Mitzvahs!” 602 Limerick Lane, Healdsburg, .942.6180. Open by appointment only.
JUNE: PORK
If it’s got pork, it’s on the menu. This month, I’m looking for great recipes that include pork — from a killer carnitas to pork chops, anything involving bacon, ham or slow cooked pulled pork! Let me know.
Deadline for this month’s recipes: June 28
THIS MONTH’S WINNER WILL RECEIVE:
– A gift certificate to a local restaurant.
– Your recipe on the menu of a local restaurant
– Eligibility to compete in the Best Wine Country Recipe Cookoff
Submit your recipe in the comments section below, or email me at heather@biteclubeats.com. Want to send it by snailmail?
Heather Irwin/BiteClub
427 Mendocino Ave
Santa Rosa, CA 95401
Santa Rosa, (June 1, 2011) — Sonoma Country Music BBQ starring Dierks Bentley is officially being rescheduled due to weather concerns. The new date for the event is Sunday, August 21, 2011. The event will be held at Sonoma County Fairgrounds. All tickets will be honored for the new date. The event was slated for June 4, 2011.
For information on ticket sales and rescheduling (BBQ not included in admission), go to sonomacountrymusicbbq.com
In addition to Carolina pulled pork sliders, Memphis BBQ, barbecued tri-tip, Texas Beef Brisket, southern barbecued chicken, collard greens and cowboy beans, Vito now offers smoked tofu and a barbecued portobello mushroom for the less carnivorous among us. Don’t miss his brandied bread pudding and monthly Smokin’ Saturday where Vito roastings everything from a whole hog to goat.
