Kale is the New Bacon

After five years of culinary one-upmanship in the categories of butter, bacon, salumi, artisan pork rinds, and pretty-much anything you can tie-down and shove into a deep-fat fryer, it seems eaters are ready for a little food sobriety.

Look no further the flood of vegetarian and vegan cookbooks released in 2011, the rise of campaigns like Meatless Mondays and the fact that a recent Harris Poll concluded that about 33% of the U.S. population have at least one meatless meal per week to conclude that vegetables, rice and grains are starting to push out their meaty plate-mates. Oh yeah, and the foie gras ban that will go into effect in June.

Hold on, though. Most of us aren’t about to eschew eggs, chicken, cheese and the occasional In-N-Out burger altogether. Maybe flexitarian is more your speed — adhering (at least for the early months of the New Year) to the new USDA MyPlate guidelines that relegate “protein” to a quarter of your diet. And veggies, fruits and grains to the remaining three-quarters. Call it moderation, not misery.

So how can you embrace a little food responsibility without, well, giving up the whole hog? We’ve at least a few answers…

There’s An App for That
That new tablet everyone got for Christmas can do more than play Angry Birds (really!) Cooking at home is a great way to get a handle on exactly what you’re eating, learn new techniques and expand your edible repertoire. But cookbooks can be hit or miss with complicated techniques and unclear instructions.

That’s why our absolute must-haves are Mark Bittman’s How to Cook Everything Vegetarian and How to Cook Everything apps. The New York Times food columnist has created fool-proof recipes accompanied by illustrated guides on everything from dicing carrots and forming veggie burgers to making pasta by hand. The recipes are well-tested and include variations to add pizzazz to standards. $9.99 each, but include weekly recipe updates.

Whole Foods also has a solid recipe app (free) that includes many of the recipes from their own cookbooks, shopping list functionality and the ability to search by “diet” including dairy-free, gluten-free, low-fat, low sodium and sugar-conscious recipes.

Want to know what’s in season at the farmer’s market? Try the Locavore App (free) that shows what’s coming into the market this week and where to find it.

Specialty Menus
Many restaurants offer low-fat, vegetarian or gluten-free options on their menus. But too often they’re bland afterthoughts rather than meals to look forward to. Want something healthy and tasty? The Flamingo Hotel (2777 Fourth St., Santa Rosa, 545-8530) recently created a diabetic-friendly menu. Though the name sounds snooze-worthy, the dishes are anything but: Chai crusted ahi tuna with cilantro lil, fresh spinach, brown rice and organic baby vegetables; Caramelized Salmon (they use ‘Splenda’) salmon with balsamic glaze, mango salsa and citrus asparagus; chicken and goat cheese panini on ciabatta bread or an Asian chicken salad with cashews, mandarins, fried udon noodles, watermelon radishes and spicy Thai dressing and sugar-free lmeon cake with fat-free whipped cream and sugar-free chocolate sauce. The menu also offers a variety of McDougall-approved dishes including lasagna with tofu ricotta, whole grain penne pasta and a tofu burger with oven baked fries.

And speaking of our resident diet doc, John McDougall, the starch-friendly diet guru releases a new book this spring “The Starch Solution: Eat the Foods You Love, Regain Your Health and Lose the Weight for Good.” Perhaps just saying it a few times will burn off some calories.

Another option for eating out: Peter Lowell’s macro-bowl (385 Healdsburg Ave., Sebastopol., (707) 829-1077); want to go a bit more upscale?  How about table-made tofu at Cyrus, where diners get a personalized ramekin of soy milk that turns into fresh tofu before your eyes. (29 North St., Healdsburg, (707) 433-3311.

An Herbal Boost
Steep yourself in the power of healing herbs during a discussion by Lily Mazzarella, Clinical Herbalist and Educator. No, those those herbs. Mazzarella will talk about herbal tinctures using mushrooms, licorice, ginger and many other immune-boosting herbs on Wednesday, January 18 from 6 to 7:30pm at the Ceres Community Project (7351 Bodega Ave., Sebastopol, 829-5833 or ceresproject.org for registration).  Can’t make the talk? Check out Farmacopia (95 Montgomery Dr., Santa Rosa, 528-4372) to get a custom-blended herbal extract or herbal/nutritional consultation from their trained staff.

Lydia’s Kitchen opens in Petaluma

Lydia's Lovin' Organics Raw Sampler Plate
Lydia’s Lovin’ Organics Raw Sampler Plate
Lydia's Lovin' Organics Raw Sampler Plate
Lydia's Lovin' Organics Raw Sampler Plate

Fans of all things vegan, raw, organic, gluten-free and generally non-toxic to your body are celebrating the opening of The Sunflower Center, serving Lydia’s Lovin’ Foods in Petaluma. It’s a combination restaurant and gathering spot where you can have your vegan cheez cake and eat it too — possibly while watching a music workshop, yoga group, or checking out some wellness literature.

Lydia's Loving Organics Cooked Sampler Plate
Lydia's Loving Organics Cooked Sampler Plate

Housed in the ground floor of an office park, it’s a bit of a head-scratcher of a location, but seems to have taken over the better part of a corporate cafeteria.  It’s the second brick-and-mortar location for Lydia’s, which also has a cafe in Fairfax (31 Bolinas Rd., Fairfax) and frequently serves up their raw soups and vegan burgers at summer festivals.

Lydia's Green Powerball
Lydia's Green Powerball

Bright windows and fresh flowers, along with a family-friendly corner make it the perfect spot to try a vegan buckwheat mushroom crepe, “pizzaz” raw pizza with pesto or alkalizing green soup.

Best bets: Cashew “kreem”, banana and chocolate crepe; coconut almond hummus with blinis or pizza-esque pizzaz with marinated vegetables. First-timers to this cuisine may can dip a toe in with fresh ginger lemonade and Lydia’s Famous Greek salad with walnut dressing.

The center also has take out and a small selection of refrigerated Lydia’s Lovin’ Foods salads and spreads.

Grand opening of the Cafe with live music, yoga and family fun happens from 8am to 11pm, Jan. 28, 2011.

We’ll let you decide if you’re ready to handle the Green Powerball, a dessert filled with srpouted almonds, dates, raisins and Green Power Powder.

Sunflower Center serving Lydia’s Kitchen Organic Food; 1435 N. McDowell Blvd., Petaluma, 792-5300.

Pearson and Co. sold to Keller

Popular cafe and catering biz Pearson and Co. has been sold. Current owners Mike and Kendra McCoy, who purchased the business in 1999, will turn over their five Sonoma County locations to Chef Josef Keller. Yes, the same Josef Keller who ran Josef’s in Railroad Square for more than a dozen years and was a fixture in the local dining scene for decades.

“We were approached by Josef and Jill Keller to purchase. It was an easy choice for us. It was time for us to retire,” said Kendra McCoy.

BiteClub hasn’t yet reached Keller for comment, but McCoy said the cafes and catering business won’t change immediately, though Keller will likely take over operations in the next week or so and add his own touches.

“He’s anxious to get started,” said McCoy. “Josef is very interested in doing more of the takeout biz rather than the fine dining he did in the past,” she added.

Keller retired from Josef’s in April 2010, followed by a stint revamping the menus  for The Council on Aging’s Meals on Wheels program. One of the largest meal providers in they county, he oversaw preparations for nearly 1,000 meals a day and got used to more everyday cooking like turkey meatloaf, chicken curry with basmati rice and beef Stroganoff.

As for the McCoy’s next chapters: “I want to clean my  house. I’m just interested in simplifying my life quite a bit,” said Kendra.

Pearson and Co. locations include cafe and coffee carts at the Stein Complex on Old Redwood Highway at Santa Rosa Kaiser Permanente, 2500 Mendocino Ave. and the original location at 2579 Fourth St. in Santa Rosa. The original cafe opened in 1996 as one of the first gourmet take-out cafes in Sonoma County by Larry & Karen Pearson.

Have a P&Co. fave that you don’t want changed? Sound off!

California Muffaletta: King of Sandwiches

Lisa Hemenway's Muffaletta at Fresh
Lisa Hemenway’s Muffaletta at Fresh
Lisa Hemenway's Muffaletta at Fresh
Lisa Hemenway's Muffaletta at Fresh

Lisa Hemenway has decoded the Muffaletta.

The signature street food of New Orleans and a treasured Southern tradition, the Muffaletta is the undisputed King of all subs. Take a loaf of bread, stuff it with a pound of cold cuts (salami, ham, etc), pile on another half pound of cheese and slather it with olive spread and you’ve got a whole lotta, well, lotta.

Personally I’ve never understood why people go so gaga for what usually amounts to a choke-inducing amount of meat stuffed between a carb-coma. With olives. But they do.

This version is different. And maybe it’s the hint of California that makes it so tasty. At Fresh, Hemenway takes a loaf of Ciabbata (already better), adds layers of Sopressata, salami, clove-smoked ham and smoked turkey, then adds a few slices of provolone and smoked mozzarella with artichoke heart spread (yes, sacrilege but it tastes good) and moist olive tapenade.

You’ll be hard pressed to find a better, more moist version of this super sammie anywhere. And we’ve consulted a number of NOLA expats. Hemenway serves it daily for lunch, grilled in her wood-fired oven. More than enough for two. Possibly a whole family, $12.95.

Fresh By Lisa Hemenway: 755 Mountain Hawk Way, Santa Rosa, 595-1048

Spaghetti Pizza? Yup, it’s a thing.

Spaghetti Pizza at Rosso
Spaghetti Pizza at Rosso

Missed celebrating National Spaghetti Day? So did we.

Fortunately Rosso Pizzeria & Wine Bar offers up its spaghetti and meatball pizza, called the Goomba, daily. Though it may sound like something straight from the kiddie menu, this grown-up, wood-fired pizza is anything but childish. In fact, it’s one of their best sellers.

Hailing from their days at Tra Vigne, co-owner Kevin Cronin said the spaghetti pizza was a popular staff nibble during busy shifts when crusts became a handy on-the-go transport for bites of spaghetti and meatballs. You’ll be a believer.

53 Montgomery Drive  Santa Rosa, 544-3221.

Panera Bread | Santa Rosa

Thai Chop salad and french onion soup at Panera Bread
Thai Chop salad and french onion soup at Panera Bread
Thai Chop salad and french onion soup at Panera Bread

Panera Bread, the national bakery, sandwich and soup chain has opened will open this week in Santa Rosa.

It’s pretty much what you’d expect from a national chain-type fast-food/cafe soup, salad and bread eatery. Good sandwiches. Tasty soups. Creative salads. Yummy cookies and breakfasty-stuff (croissants to mini souffles). Starbucks-esque interior with a cozy little enclosed fire and lots of windows.

You can go healthy (the chain has long been praised for its “healthy” options) or really pack on the calories. Best bets: You Pick Two. Pair a half sammie and salad or soup for about $8. The Thai Chopped Chicken is a hefty bowl of chicken, romaine, cashews, edamame, carrots and other goodies in a Thai Chili Vinaigrette. Yum. French onion soup was solid.

Bakery Menu | Salads | Sandwiches

The building went up quickly in the former CVS parking lot at the corner of Steele and Mendocino — in a sort of newly minted Golden Triangle of fash food chains (Five Guys, In N Out, possible Chik-fil-A) off the Steele Lane exit of Highway 101.

Interestingly (and maybe I just noticed this), Target has started carrying a line of Panera food items including dressings, dips and spreads. Like the restaurant (which is owned by St. Louis Bread Company), they’re well-researched to fit American food-profiles.

Meanwhile, the Baja Fresh in the nearby Safeway Shopping Center has, we heard, permanently shuttered. It’s not a huge surprise, considering the wealth of cheaper and better Mexican food nearby (Taqueria Santa Rosa, La Palapa, Jalisco) and the overwhelming popularity of it’s two neighbors — Five Guys and Panda Express.

Are you welcoming Panera with open arms. Or giving them the royal raspberry.

 

Year in Food 2011


Food Trucks Come. Food Trucks Go. Food Trucks Come Again
(See All)
2011 was the year of the food truck. And then it wasn’t. Early in the year, a fleet of mobile kitchens headed to downtown Santa Rosa offering up unique flavors and a fun outdoor flavor. Restaurants got angry. The trucks were booted, but found homes throughout the county. What’s up for next year? More trucks are in the works. BiteClub’s Wish: Evolve. Downtown Santa Rosa must continue to evolve and be a space that’s exciting for both residents and visitors. Let’s stop fighting and find solutions that benefit everyone.

Munch Mondays: Food trucks come to downtown Santa Rosa
Restaurant “Row” Over Food Trucks
Food Fights
Munch Mondays Scrapped
Napa Nixes Trucks
A guide to the Trucks
Food Truck Thursdays in Sebastopol
KJ welcomes trucks
The Best Taco Truck
Trucks in the Park
Pop-Up: Chosen Spot
Food Trucks in Winter

What Exactly Happened There?
Drama makes for a very tasty dish.
The saga of Santi was probably the biggest attention-grabber of the year, doing a chef swap-out soon after moving to Santa Rosa, then closing mysteriously. In the fall, barbecue and Southern-style dining spot Sweet T’s opened. But not without a bit of early drama.

Santi’s Doug Richey takes over | Santi Closes | Sweet T’s Opens | Memphis Chef Takes Over

Closely followed by the strangeness of a very public meltdown in Windsor when the Bousquets first closed their Michelin-starred restaurant. Then reopened it as a barbecue spot. Then disappeared. Then closed their other restaurant, Bistro M. Mamma Pigs co-owners closed the restaurant within a few months.

Mirepoix Closes | Mamma Pigs Opens | Bistro M Closes | Mamma Pigs Drama | Mamma Pigs Closes

Others
– PizzaVino707 Closes | Forchetta/Bastoni opens
– XXV
Opens | XXV Closes
Blue Label Opens | Blue Label Closes | Blue Label Becomes a burger spot
Shimo Opens | Shimo Closes

A Pig Story
My favorite story of the year was a story about a pig named Reggie. The plan seemed simple enough: To help raise a piglet at a local ranch, then butcher him myself, eat him and write about the whole thing. Along the way, some compassionate animal advocates got involved. Reggie got a reprieve. And we slaughtered another pig (along with a rabbit and chicken) in an afternoon that forever changed me.

Getting to know my dinner. Personally
A Reprieve For Reggie
Death of a Pig (warning: graphic)

Barbecue
Southern food gets its moment in 2011, and heading into 2012. (all bbq stories)
Bubbaque
Mamma Pigs
Real Food BBQ
BBQ Spot
Red Rose Closes
Sweet T’s
HBG starts bbq, fried chicken
Tex Wasabi’s reopens in Santa Rosa

Notable Beginnings
$5 Banh Mi: Noodle Bowl
ATavola at Coppola
Frank and Ernie’s
Agave
La Rosa Tequileria
Thai Time (Santa Rosa)
Big Bottom Market
The Wurst (Hburg)
Hole in the Wall
Kin
Gypsy Cafe
Cocina Latina
Moustache Baked Goods
Mark Malicki finds a new home at Casino
Syrah Becomes Petite Syrah

Notable Closures
Restaurant P/30
Blue Label
Windsor Whirlwind
John Barleycorns
Traverso’s
Ozzie’s Grill
Cafe Gratitude

Chain Gangs
Thought we aren’t usually big fans of national restaurant chains moving into our beloved food-shed here in Sonoma County, the inevitable is happening. And boy, do you guys have a lot to say about it. My most-commented stories of the year were among these stories about chain restaurants. (all chain stories)

Five Guys Opens
Panera Bread (opening soon)
BJ’s To Coddingtown
Chick-fil-A
Hooters to RP
What chains would you like to see come to Sonoma County

# Winning
Props to Sonoma County’s Best and Brightest
King and Queen of Pork
Sift Wins Cupcake Wars
Adam Mali Wins Lamb JamGood Food Award Finalists

Just Weird
The Cricket Burger
The Turd Burger

My Favorite Meals of the Year
Catelli’s
Oenotri
Best Meals of 2011

New Year’s Food Resolutions

Every year, around Christmas time, my mom would sit us down with a pencil and paper and tell us to write our New Year’s resolutions. They started out ambitious: Become a professional ice skater. Write Thank You Notes for Ewok doll, purple knickers, penny loafers. Lose weight.

They become more telling in my teenage years: Lose Weight. Find boyfriend.

As a young adult, they included the usual suspects: “Drink” dinner only once a week. Stop smoking. Lose weight.

Lately, they’re a bit more mature: Breathe more. Exercise more. Lose weight.

This year, I’m making a resolution to stop with all the dumb resolutions and maybe make a list of things I’d actually like to do in 2012 rather than the things I’m going to stop doing. Or punish myself for doing. Or hate myself because I haven’t done.

So here are my “I Can’t Wait to Do These” Food Resolutions for 2012.

– Finally naming the best burger in SoCo
– Doing my top 25 Restaurants (on haitus since 2009! Jees)
– Redesign BiteClub
– Spend more time at the farmer’s markets
– Have a kitchen garden
– Explore the entire menu at a restaurant I really like
– Take more trips to SF (Commonwealth)
– Take trips to Napa (French Laundry, Terra high on the list)
– Get to know more local producers
– Take more pictures
– Cook more
– Stop worrying about losing weight and actually enjoy eating.

What are your “resolutions” both food and otherwise for this year?

SRJC Seeking New Chef/Culinary Instructor

Things keep looking up for the SRJC culinary program. In an unexpected move, a new full time position for a chef and culinary instructor has opened up at the college.  The instructor will be responsible for lecture and lab instruction — meaning they need a chef who has proven teaching credentials. Starting salary is $53 to $76,871 per year, which is a pretty sweet gig for a chef. Not to mention more regular hours than your average restaurant cook. Details at http://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/fbh/2761334121.html

The cafe closed its Brickyard Center doors on Dec. 21 as it prepares to move to it’s new digs on Mendocino Avenue in January.

Lighting a new fire at Healdsburg Bar and Grill

John Hallgrimson, chef of Healdsburg Bar and Grill

 

John Hallgrimson, chef of Healdsburg Bar and Grill
John Hallgrimson, chef of Healdsburg Bar and Grill

Healdsburg Bar and Grill has jumped on the Southern bandwagon, recently installing a smoker and grill in the restaurant and hooking up some down home ‘que, grits and fried chicken starting January 1.

Testing the waters as daily specials, then moving on the permanent menu, they include baby back ribs with fried pickles (Sunday); Fried Chicken and mashed potatoes with bacon-braised collard greens (Monday); Grilled shrimp with grits and smoked ham (Tuesday) along with grilled half chicken with beans and rice; grilled salmon and potato grain and grilled NY Steak frites. Prices range from $13.50 to $17. If the fried chicken sounds familiar, yeah, it is. “It’s the fried chicken we used to do at Market in St. Helena many moons ago,” said co-owner Doug Keane.

To wash all that meaty goodness down, HBG is stirring up an ice cream station featuring an adult shake menu. Anyone for a chocolate malt with Jack Daniels? Me, too.

The change up, according to Keane, is the continued evolution of the popular burger joint into a more comprehensive dinner destination. With a brand new kitchen, new beer walk-in (meaning more beer choices) , more big screen tv’s (football from every seat!) and an increased focus on the grill, HBG just keeps getting tastier.

245 Healdsburg Avenue  Healdsburg, 433-3333.