Page 561 – Sonoma Magazine

Thanksgiving 2011

November 2011

By biteclub

EDITOR’S NOTE: G&G Market will be open from 7am to 3pm Thanksgiving. I mistakenly wrote that they would be closed.
Sure, Thanksgiving is a time for gathering ’round the family table, but who says it has to be yours? Instead of spending hours slaving in a hot kitchen, there are plenty of eat-out, pick-up and “who has to know you didn’t make it?” options throughout Sonoma County.

This year, celebrate turkey day in a new way. Just remember to get a doggy bag for those post-Thanksgiving turkey and stuffing cravings.
Here are some of our favorite spots throughout Sonoma County.

RESTAURANTS
 Santa Rosa
Stark’s Steakhouse: Roast Willie Bird Turkey, Chef Mark’s Andouille Sausage & Wild Mushroom Stuffing, Traditional Giblet Gravy and Pomegranate-Cranberry Relish for $24, or the usual steakhouse menu (except burgers and entree Caesar salads) from 2 to 7pm. Desserts: Pumpkin Pie and Mamma Janne’s Cream Cheese Pie. No corkage. 521 Adams St (at 7th St.), Santa Rosa, 546-5100.

Willie Bird’s Restaurant: Family-favorite serving up local Willie Birds. Full holiday turkey dinner along with other menu items. Reservations required and most are nailed down well in advance, but some walk-ins accepted. Open until 8pm. 1150 Santa Rosa Ave., Santa Rosa, 707.542.0861. Can’t get in for Thanksgiving: Grab a turkey Monte Cristo on Black Friday.

Cafe Europe: Four course diner, $35, from 1 to 6pm. 104 Calistoga Road Santa Rosa, 538-5255

John Ash and Co.: Traditional turkey dinner from Chef Thomas Schmidt. Call for reservations. 350 Barnes Rd., Santa Rosa, 707.527.7687

Brasserie: Three course meal from noon to 7pm, $42 adults, $18 12 and under. 170 Railroad Street Santa Rosa, 636-7388.
Union Hotel: Traditional turkey, butternut squash soup, cranberry sauce, pumpkin pie, $28.50; Prime rib dinner, $28.50; shrimp pasta, $23.50; pasta primavera $23.50 and a vegetarian pomodoro pasta $23.50. Reservations, 11:30am to 7:30pm. 280 Mission, Santa Rosa, 538-6000.

Healdsburg
Madrona Manor: Michelin-starred chef Chef Jesse Malgren does annual four-course turkey dinner for $78pp. Call ahead for seating between 1:30 and 7:30pm. 1001 Westside Road, Healdsburg, (707) 433-4231.

Dry Creek Kitchen: Three course menu includes roasted beet carpaccio, Duo of Willie Bird Turkey, Roasted leg of lamb, hard cider glazed pork, butternut squash ravioli; pumpkin pie with salted caramel sauce, hand pulled apple strudel. $65 per person. Served 2-7pm; 317 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, 866.458.7224

Cocina Latina: Thanksgiving Yucateca-style. Mateo Granados’ new restaurant serves up Tacones, ceviche, Yucatan-style turkey with jasmine rice, crispy duck leg with beans and chorizo, braised lamb with potatoes, roasted beets, sticky bun flan. $45 per person, serving noon to 8pm. Reservations recommended, 433-1520.

Spoonbar: A casual three courses include mixed game terrine with date compote; Redwood Hill goat cheese salad; Ras el Hanout scented breast of turkey with pinenut and currant stuffing; ribeye steak with potato gratin; prosciutto wrapped sturgeon; breast of duck with Gravenstein apple gastric; Gleason Ranch porchetta with root veggies; sweet potato pie, pecan tart, brown sugar creme caramel. $55 for adults and $25 for children. 219 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, 922-5426.

Sonoma
Estate: Chef Sondra Bernstein’s family-style Italian restaurant in the former General’s Daughter is serving up prosciutto and pumpkin soup, Blue crab spaghetti, sugar pie pumpkin ravioli with sage butter, roasted turkey roulade, leg of lamb, pumpkin cheesecake. 400 West Spain Street Sonoma, 933-3663.

girl and the fig: Nearby sister restaurant on the Sonoma square features a three course menu including wild mushroom and fromage blanc strudel, roasted turkey breast, prime rib, and a brow butter Bartlett pear tart for $52 per person. 110 West Spain St., Sonoma, 938-3634.

Depot Hotel: Four courses at a favorite Sonoma bistro features corn chowder, vineyard salad, roast turkey with sage stuffing. Other entrees: grilled salmon, orecchiette pasta with butternut squash, veal picatta or filet of beef. Cheesecake, pumpkin pie or chocolate decadence with port wine sauce. $37 to $43pp, seatings from noon to 7pm; 241 First St., West, Sonoma, 938-2980.

Sante: An epic Thanksgiving buffet that puts all other buffets to shame. The highlight reel: Butternut squash with creme fraiche, shrimp cocktail, assorted charcuteries, artisan cheeses served by the Maitre Fromager, smoked salmon and caviar, classic Caesar, ricotta tortellini salad. Carving stations of Diestel turkey with brioche and sage stuffing, filet mignon, pumpkin pie ravioli, sea bass, lamb, veal, mashed potatoes, Brussels sprouts, artisnal breads, pumpking pie, chocolate Bourbon tart, pumpkin cheesecake, spiced pumpkin macaroons, s’mores bar, Crepes Suzette. $95pp, 939-2415.

DIY Pie: Join with other busy bakers for a Community Pie event at 10am, Wednesday, Nov. 23. All you need is an apron and a rolling pin (you can borrow a neighbor’s if you need to). Caterer Meloni Courtway provides instructions and ingredients on how to make her Martha-worthy double pastry crust for a take-home apple or pumpkin pie. Sips, nibbles and plenty of friendly chit-chat while you bake. $22 to be the star of your holiday meal, RSVP required mcourtway@sbcglobal.net or 781-7244.

Sebastopol
French Garden: Garden Butternut squash soup with pumpkin ravioli; turkey, Prime Rib, polenta cakes with kale, mashed potatoes, sausage stuffing, roasted chestnut gravy, yams with brown sugar, cranberry sauce, pumpkin pie, sticky date pudding and more. 8050 Bodega Avenue Sebastopol, . 824-2030. $60pp, $25 children 12 and under.

Petaluma
Central Market: Always a favorite in Petaluma, Chef Ton Najiola celebrates his eighth annual Thanksgiving dinner, this year highlighting New Orleans influences. $60pp, kids under 12, $20. 42 Petaluma Blvd N., Petaluma, (707) 778-9900

West County
Agriculture at Dawn Ranch: Three course featuring pate with caramelized onions, mushroom tart, herb roasted turkey with Brussels sprouts hash, pumpkin tart. $44pp, seating from 4:30 to 9pm. 16467 Hwy 116 Guerneville, (707) 869-0656

Rancho Nicasio Thanksgiving Dinner: Annual three course dinner from 12 to 7pm, reservations recommended. Menu includes homemade clam chowder, turkey, ham, salmon Wellington with champagne sauce, prime rib, pumpkin, apple or pecan pie. $34.95pp, 29.95 65+, kids under 10, $24.95. Three course vegetarian option available by reservation. On The Town Square, Nicasio, 415-662-2219.

BUYING YOUR TURKEY
BBQ Smokehouse Smoked Turkey: Smoked over applewood for 12 hours, $68.50. Add cornbread stuffing, sweet potato casserole, mashed potatoes, red eye turkey gravy and cranberry relish for $89.99. Order before 5:00 PM on November 18th, 575-3277 ext. 2.

Diestel Turkey: Big John’s (1345 Healdsburg Ave, Healdsburg), Oliver’s Market, Whole Foods, Sonoma Market (520 W. Napa St., Sonoma), Ukiah Natural Foods (721 S. State St., Ukiah), Molsberry Market (522 Larkfield Ctr, Santa Rosa).

Willie Bird Turkeys: Local free-range turkeys. 5350 Highway 12, Santa Rosa, CA 707-545-2832 Will Call Orders Only.

Whole Foods: Pre-cooked meal options include a Latin Feast, Heritage Holiday dinner, traditional turkey dinner, spiral cut ham, organic and vegan options, as well as organic and heirloom turkeys.

PICKUP
Zazu/Bovolo/Black Pig: You cook the turkey, Zazu does the rest. A la carte sides with flair including Black Pig Bacon (for your left over BLTurkey!); Cranberry apple Chutney; Riesling Gravy, Buttermilk Mashed Potatoes, maple and browned butter yams, cornbread stuffing, pumpkin ice cream pie, Sebastopol apple crunch pie. All orders must be received by Friday, Nov. 20 for pick up on Wednesday at ZAZU restaurant + farm, 3535 guerneville road, santa rosa from 3 to 9pm or at BOVOLO, 106 Matheson St, Healdsburg from 12 to 6 pm. 431-2962 to place your order.

Pearson and Co: Mix and match everything from sides to stuffing. Menu includes: Butternut Squash Soup, turkey, ham, garlic mashed potatoes, root vegetables, green beans, wild rice stuffing, breads, pies and more. All orders must be placed by Saturday, Nov. 20, 2010. Call ahead orders: 541-3868, 2759 4th St., Santa Rosa.

Fresh By Lisa Hemenway: Complete Thanksgiving dinner includes a roast turkey, mashed potatoes and gravy, veggies, desserts and more. $180-$195. Packaged and ready to go, ready for pickup between 10am and 1pm. 5755 Mountain Hawk Way, Santa Rosa, 539-1049.

DON’T FORGET DESSERT 
Dominique’s Sweets: Pumpkin, apple, sweet potato, Honey walnut, pecan or yam pie available for pick up on Nov. 23 at the Santa Rosa wednesday market (Veteran’s Building). Order by Nov. 19. 707.843.9765 or dominiquesweets.com.

Della Fattoria: Chocolate pecan pie, pumpkin pie with Maple Meringue, Pumpkin Slab Pie, bourbon Pumpkin Cheesecake, brown butter pumpkin layer cake with cream cheese frosting, dinner rolls and breads. Order by 11/21, 763-0161. 141 Petaluma Boulevard North, Petaluma.

Mom’s Apple Pies will be open for limited hours on Thanksgiving day. Expect lots of pumpkin. Order ahead if you want something different. 4550 Gravenstein Hwy. North, Sebastopol, 707-823-8330.

LAST MINUTE SHOPPING 
* Whole Foods: Thanksgiving hours are 8am to 2pm.
* Safeway: Most locations: 6am to 12pm
* G & G Market/Santa Rosa: Open 7am to 3pm
* Olivers: Montecito, Stony Point, Cotati, open from 7am to 3:30pm

TO HELL WITH THE TURKEY!
Save a turkey and join adopt a turkey instead of eating one. To view this year’s “adoptable” turkeys, visit adoptaturkey.org or call the Turkey Adoption Hotline at 1-888-SPONSOR.

Sweet T’s Restaurant opening in Santa Rosa

November 2011

By biteclub

Fried Chicken at Sweet T's in Santa Rosa

Gladys is the Southern fried heart of Doug Richey’s new kitchen. Quietly burbling and steaming away she’s a gleaming new Henny Penny pressure fryer that’s seen some heavy R&D over the last several months as Sweet T’s Restaurant and Barin Santa Rosa preps for opening day.

But some whoops and hollers from mingling staff in the pre-opening days as Richey puts out another basket of “test” fried chicken confirm he’s hit the perfect combination. A mash-up recipe of “TK’s” (Chef Thomas Keller) brining technique, his own mix of secret herbs and spices, and what he claims is the real secret to KFC’s chicken (the number of pieces put into the fryer) — this batch is tender, juicy and perfectly crispy, the hallmark of great Southern fried chicken.

“They’re polite, they’re Southern when they don’t like it,” said Richey of less-successful attempts.

Catfish Po Boy at Sweet T's in Santa Rosa

Putting aside his pasta and olive-oil drenched past, the former Santi chef is embracing barbecue, creamed corn, molasses cake and of course, his signature fried chicken as the Fountaingrove restaurant transforms into a Wine Country-does-Low-Country eatery. One of the most eagerly anticipated openings in recent memory, Sweet T’s is slated to open mid-November 2011 (probably on 11.18, but call ahead).

Outside, a Southern Pride smoker puffs away, filled with ribs, chicken and pork butt, which will be another staple of the menu. Long-cooked stuff goes in the night before, infusing the meats and building a “bark” on the pork. Like any true Southern ‘que spot, the meats change up daily and are served with coleslaw, biscuits and a napkin — and once it’s gone for the day, it’s gone.

The food is familiar to Richey, who’s family hails from the South, but to re-indoctrinate himself, he spent several weeks last summer eating and staging at some of the South’s best barbecue eateries. Ultimately, it was his momma’s recipes that inspired some of his favorite dishes.

Peanut Butter and Raspberry Cake with Sweet Potato Chips at Sweet T's

Backed by investors Dennis and Ann Tussey, along with a number of Bay Area restaurateurs, it’s been a long road to the current lineup, but here’s what’s slated to roll out later this week:

LUNCH
– Simple pickles: Housemade pickles and onions ($2)
– Boiled Peanuts: The Southern version of edamame ($2)
– Cornbread: Cooked to order in tiny cast-iron skillets ($2)
– Onion rings with buttermilk vinaigrette
– Hush puppies with salted honey butter ($5)
– Catfish Poor Boy: Doug hates that the fish isn’t local, but hey, you gotta have catfish, right? Dredged in Cajun spices with a lush remoulade. ($9)
– Daily ‘que (chicken, “chopped” pork, ribs, brisket)

– Sides of succotash, mashed potatoes, collard greens, hoppin john, mac and cheese, and grits. ($3-5). The creamed corn nearly made me weep.
– The burger: Right now it’s a cheeseburger, but Doug’s trying to get a lean chuck infused with bacon trimmings on the menu (let’s just say not everyone appreciates the beauty of this concept). Let’s all lend our support here.

DINNER
Most of the above plus…
– “Guilty Pleasures” of chicken lives and cracklin’ with sweet onion jam; crispy Brussels sprouts with garlic aoili
– Barbecue, of course.
– Gumbo with okra, shimp and oysters ($3, 6)
– Shrimp and Grits: Anson Mills grits with prawns and crispy leeks ($16)
– Meatloaf with mashed potatoes and ketchup glaze
– Oven roasted pork chop
– Southern Fried chicken with two sides ($14, $18)

Save room for dessert. We’re just saying. Stay tuned for final opening dates. Cause we know you’re all going to be standing outside with your nose pressed against the window. I know I am.

Sweet T’s: 2009 Stagecoach Road, Santa Rosa, 595-3935

Artisano 2011: Win Tickets

November 2011

By biteclub

CONTEST CLOSED
BiteClub’s Giving away TWO sets of TWO Tickets
Two winners will receive two tickets to the Grand Tastings at Artisano on November 19, 2011.
To win, tell me your FAVORITE artisan food in Sonoma County — whether that’s bread, cheese, charcuterie, chocolate, beer…whatever. LEAVE YOUR COMMENTS IN THE COMMENT SECTION BELOW. You must use a real email address for me to contact you.
I’ll select two winners based on my favorite answers on Friday, Nov. 18 at 10am. Full RULES HERE.

With the crush of September and October’s busy harvest schedule now behind us, it’s time to celebrate and relax. Artisano, held Nov. 19 from 11am to 4pm is an intimate, curated walk-around tasting of small production artisan wine and food from throughout Sonoma County. And by curated, we mean the good stuff.Now housed at the Vintner’s Inn, chefs and winemakers plan to bring their A-game to this sip and nibble event featuring top-notch cheesemakers, charcuterie, chocolates, micro-production wines, beer and chef demos along with art and live music.

Wines from Acorn, Capture, Cartograph, PreVail, De Novo, Skipstone, Stark, Reynoso and Pech Merle. Restaurants: Affronti, Dry Creek Kitchen, Diavola, Estate, Jackson’s, John Ash, Mugnaini Wood Fired Pizza, Petite Syrah, Spoonbar and Girl & The Fig. Plus: Achadinha Goat Cheese, Bellwether Farms, Bleating Heart Chesese, Dry Creek Peach and Produce, Delice de la Vallee, Jim town Store, Laura Chenel, Marin French Cheese, Redwood Hill, Salt Side Down Chocolates, Skipstone Ranch, Sonoma Chocolatiers and Terra Sonoma. Bear Republic offers up beer and chefs John Toulze (girl and the fig), Brian Anderson (Bistro 29) and pastry chef Shelly Kaldunski demo throughout the afternoon.

The event is a benefit for Slow Food Sonoma County, with a portion of the revenue going to help School Garden Projects in Cloverdale, Geyserville, Healdsburg, Windsor and Santa Rosa.

Artisano 2011, artisano.org
Tickets: $65 in advance, $75 day of event.
Friday, Nov 18, 11-4pm, Vintners Inn Event Center: Vintners’ Inn Event Center – John Ash & CO.

Local cheese, beer, coffee are Good Food Award Finalists

November 2011

By biteclub

Craft beer, cheese, preserves and coffee producers from Sonoma County were among the 144 finalists for this year’s Good Food Awards. Nearly 1,000 artisan foods were submitted to the judging panel from throughout the country representing the best in locally made, sustainable foods. Judges included: Alice Waters, Michael Pollan, Clark Wolf, Bruce Aidells, Laura Werlin, Ruth Reichl, and dozens of other haute palates.

“These producers represent America at its best — businesses of every size that stimulate vibrant local economies and truly define the meaning of good food. In the long term, The Good Food Awards will change the way America feeds itself, and in the short term, it has set out to foster and fuel a craft food renaissance that is taking shape from coast to coast and everywhere in between. These are our American local food heroes, and it’s their time to shine,” said the Good Food Awards organizers.

On the list of Bay Area Nominees (Sonoma County Producers in BOLD):

BEER
Lagunitas Brewing Company, a lil’ Sumpin’ Sumpin’ California
Almanac Beer, Summer 2010 Vintage Blackberry Ale California (SF)

CHARCUTERIE
Adesso Speck (Oakland)
Café Rouge, Duck Pate California (SF)
Columbus Foods, Finnochiona California (SF)
Fatted Calf, Pork, Rabbit, and Duck Terrine California (Napa, SF)

CHEESE
Achadinha Cheese Company, Capricious California
Bellwether Farms, Carmody & Whole Milk Ricotta California
Cypress Grove Chevre, PsycheDillic California
Saint Benoit Yogurt, Organic Yogurt Cheese California

CHOCOLATE
Bittersweet, Rich Milk California (SF)
Dandelion Chocolate, 70% Costa Rica California (SF)

COFFEE
Equator Coffees & Teas, Ethiopia Watadera FTO California (Marin)
Flying Goat Coffee, Ethiopia Sidamo Moredocofe California
Sightglass Coffee, Ethiopia Shakiso California (SF)

PICKLES
Emmy’s Pickles and Jams, Turmeric Cauliflower California (SF)

PRESERVES
Artisan Preserves, Orange Honey Marmalade
Wine Forest Wild Foods, Wild Elderberry Syrup (Napa)

Winners Announced: January 13, 2012 (Ferry Building, San Francisco, CA)
The list of Good Food Awards finalists can be found here: http://bit.ly/gfafinalists2012pr

Tasting Gallery: http://bit.ly/gfatastingphotos
Good Food Awards Website: www.goodfoodawards.org

What killed Shimo?

November 2011

By biteclub

Chef Douglas Keane has confirmed that Shimo is, in fact, closed.

In an early morning phone call, Keane waxed philosophic about the shutter, saying that his passion for authentic Japanese cuisine may not have translated well in Healdsburg, and ultimately, the numbers just didn’t work out.

After opening as a high-end steakhouse — something that ultimately proved unsustainable for everyday customers — Keane tried switch up the concept by doing $7-$10 ramen bowls, bar bites and Sunday prime rib specials to bring in more crowds. Most recently Ken Tominaga of Hana Japanese was a weekly sushi-making guest.

But despite some last ditch efforts, Keane decided to throw in the towel mid-November — in part so he could place some of the remaining staff at his other restaurants and afford to give a small severance to those he couldn’t. “If we waited until January there wasn’t much I could have done for them,” he said. A broken refrigerator sealed the deal early this week.

Keane plans to hold onto the space for now, seeking a possible buyer or testing a new restaurant concept with broader popular appeal (we’re voting for a Diavola-style offshoot). Meanwhile, he’ll continue holding down the fort at Cyrus and HBG.

Has Shimo Closed?

November 2011

By biteclub

An enigmatic Tweet this afternoon from Chef Douglas Keen of Shimo Modern Steak (Cyrus, HBG).

An intrepid BiteClubber tipped us off that the website seems to confirm that the restaurant may be going dark. Another troublesome sign: OpenTable is not accepting reservations.

Keane has not yet returned phone calls to confirm the closure, but this all seems like bad news.
A signal of things to come? Unfortunately, rumors are swirling throughout the county about a number of restaurants, and it could be a long, difficult winter for many. Stay tuned.

Forchetta Bastoni

November 2011

By biteclub

Closed

Forchetta/Bastoni is exactly the right kind of restaurant for tough economic times. Housed in the cavernous space that has seen its share of big ego chefs come and go, Jamilah Nixon (formerly of Lucy’s Table) and Steven Peyer (formerly of Peter Lowell’s) have split the space into two halves — a casual, lunchy noodle bar and a rustic Italian trattoria that (at least for now) only opens for dinner. It’s a smart ying-yang of flavors, concepts and price-points that at first blush seems like a solid concept as restaurants shutter left and right for lack of patrons.

With a minimal cosmetic rehab — bringing in funky wine glass chandeliers, remodeling the upstairs into a sort of cozy, flop-down on the sofa noodle house, repurposing the stately raw bar into an open lunch kitchen — the space immediately feels like a place you want to be.

Hitting the lunch crowd and wallet-watchers, the noodle bar, Bastoni, opened for lunch 11.11.11 to a packed house of curious locals. Encompassing the former bar area, it’s a constantly moving tableau of servers, kitchen staff and patrons pulling up seats and pondering the simple menu. Color bursts from every corner, with bright pillows, saraongs, Asian movie posters and straw rice cookers hanging from the light fixtures.

On the menu: Pickled vegetables, rustic banh mi, noodles, curry, and fried rice. Christened “Bastoni”, the Italian word for “sticks”, chopsticks are de riguer (forks are by request only) — this is casual finger food with prices to match. Banh mi (Vietnamese sandwiches) are filled with chicken liver and ground pork pate on a square Ciabbata roll ($10-12) which works with the Asia-meets-Italy theme. Order it “spicy” for an extra jolt of jalapeno added to the watermelon radish and carrots.

Wet noodles are a veritable bathtub of broth and meat (or tofu) with the seasoned broth similar to pho ($10-$12). But the Southern Thai Style Curry, heavy with coconut milk, kaffir lime, ginger and fresh pumpkin is the stand-out winner ($10-$12). Served with jasmine rice, it’s enough for two light eaters.

Larb, a Thai chopped salad with either chicken or tofu) is hand cut with a prickle of red chilies, cilantro, fish sauce and lime. It’s still a work in progress (a first order was too salty, the second lacked the citrus punch), but has layers of flavor that are sure to come together in the coming days.

The bar offers up stronger-than-average cocktails like the Thai-Garita with tequila, kaffir lime and cucumber for $9 along with a variety of other tipplers. The wine list is small, but well-thought with chards, sparklers and rieslings to match the spicy Asian menu. (Iron Horse Wedding Cuvee, Copain Vigonier, Dr. Loosen Dry Riesling, all available by the glass or bottle).

The Forchetta space opens for dinner this weekend, with reclaimed wood panels separating out the space, rustic window panes overhanging the cinema kitchen and a Martha-worthy centerpiece piled with dishes and topped by a shimmering chandelier. Wine bottles and Mason jars double as light fixtures and the table coverings are shabby-chic canvas with unraveled edges. It’s warm and inviting, and the kind of dinner spot that feels immediately accessible without being cheap.

So what’s on the menu? The pizza oven from West County Grill is still a centerpiece, so expect pizza. But aside from that, we can’t say exactly. At 2pm, the dinner menu was still in development. “It’s going to be really fresh, whatever we come up with,” said Nixon, wheeling out of the kitchen with another steaming bowl of noodles.

Stay tuned for more details…

Forchetta/Bastoni: 6948 Sebastopol Ave., Sebastopol, 829-9500. Bastoni open daily from 11 am to 10 p.m. for lunch, dinner and late night snacks and midnight on Friday and Saturday. Forchetta opens for dinner Thursday through Monday from 5 to 9pm and until 10pm on Friday and Saturday. forchettabastoni.com.

Ozzie’s Grill Goes Cold

November 2011

By biteclub

After three decades of serving burgers and fries in Rincon Valley, the grill at Ozzie’s will go cold on Nov. 12. 2011.

Owner Jeff Gonsalves said it’s a devastating blow, but increasing competition from chains like Burger King (which recently opened on Mission Blvd.), Five Guys and In-N-Out along with a down economy have forced him to shut the doors at Ozzie’s Grill (799 Montecito Center, Santa Rosa).

“I’m just a normal guy who has cooked all his life. We aren’t rich and we can’t float this place all winter. I could be $50,000 in debt by February,” said Gonsalves, who purchased the restaurant from the original owners three years ago.

“Cheese, bacon, everything has gone up in price, and people just aren’t eating out,” he said. “We’re paying out more bills than we’re taking in,” he said.

Gonsalves said other local retailers in the Montecito Center Shopping center — like many mom and pop shops throughout Sonoma County — have been slower over the last 15 months and are worried about the long winter ahead. “Maybe the bar is doing better, I don’t know,” he added.

Gonsalves tried to sell the restaurant, but said he hasn’t had any serious offers. “It’s just sad. A few years ago, you’d see 20 trucks out there in the parking lot at 11am. People were coming from Rohnert Park, all over for my burgers. Now, maybe there’s one truck. I’m not rich, you know? We just can’t do it anymore,” said Gonsalves.

Chefs in the Tasting Rooms

November 2011

By biteclub

Wineries have figured out the best way to your wine glass is through your stomach.

True oenophiles know that the best way to really taste a wine is to pair it up with foods that complement (or sometimes contrast) the minerality, spiciness or fruit qualities inherent in both. Ever tried a hunk of stinky blue with a Sauvignon blanc? Or super sweet cake with bubbly? It’s not that it can’t work, but when we try to pair that big, beefy, smokey Cabernet Sauvignon we loved so much in the tasting room last month with a slab of prime rib — well, there’s only about a 50-50 chance that the two are going to sync up. Maybe less. Because unless you’re Robert Parker Jr., tasting wine without food is an exercise in futility.

So how to do it? Talking about wine pairing can be about as thrilling as a root canal. Instead, local wineries want to let you taste a perfectly cooked slice of local duck breast in a pinot reduction sauce with their pinot noir to really drive the point home. Eat wonderful food, then sip their wine, and you’re hooked! But not all pairings are equal. From ultra-premium chef-guided explorations to “fridge food” that’s served complementary, there’s a food and wine pairing for even a beans and rice budget.

Here are some of our favorites in order of price…

Pinkies Up
$75+: Chalk Hill Vineyards
A culinary tour of this extensive property begins by wandering through the kitchen gardens (1.5 acres), perusing the panoramic vineyards and being whisked into the Pavillion, an uber-exclusive conservatory overlooking the area’s most elaborate equestrian center. Chef Didier Ageorges (a former Ritz-Carlton chef in San Francisco) serves small plates with the luxe lineup of Chalk Hill wines. Based on seasonal ingredients, the three-course menus change up but expect dishes like a Thai Red Curry Soup with Tiger Prawns (Pinot Gris), Lobster Risotto with Tarragon Lobster Bisque (Chardonnay) or Pork Belly marinated in orange and ginger (Estate Red Blend) with dessert wines in the tasting room. Reservations required, 10300 Chalk Hill Road, Healdsburg, 657-4837.

$65: J Vineyard and Winery’s Bubble Room
Food loves bubbles, especially when it comes to desserts and cheeses. Chef Mark Caldwell has free-reign over some of Sonoma County’s best bubbles and pinot noirs to find just the right seasonal dishes to bring out their best qualities. Exploring world cuisines, you can expect to find coconut butter squash soup (Russian River Chardonnay) and house-made gnocchi (Pinot Gris) along side pork belly (pinot noir) and trifle of roasted pumpkin and vanilla bean creme fraiche (Brut Rose). Menus change up seasonally. A truly luxurious way to spend an afternoon to taste through J’s inspired still and sparkling wines. Seatings Friday, Saturday and Sunday at 11, 12, 2 and 3pm. Reservations: 11447 Old Redwood Highway, Healdsburg, 431-5430.

$35: St. Francis Winery
Artisan Winemaker Heather Munden is as serious about her homemade pancetta as she is her pinot noir. Her chef background makes for a picky palate and food-friendly wines. Working with Munden, Winery Chef David Bush culls the best produce from the Sonoma Valley winery’s two-acre garden, taking inspiration from whatever’s in season, serving multi-course small plates that rival the kitchen of any Michelin-starred restaurant. Expect to find jewel-like presentations of steamed sea bass with fermented black beans, soba and bacon lardons (with a 2007 Malbec), seared duck breast with fired rice and a poached quail egg on a pool of red curry (2007 Malbec) or a torta Cubana with taco truck-inspired homemade chorizo, fire roasted salsa and smoked paprika fromage blanc (2007 Cabernet Franc). Four courses at a communal table that looks onto the picturesque vineyards. A mix of luxury and casual companionship, this is the Valley’s best bet. Reservations required, Friday-Sunday at 11am, 1 and 3pm, Monday and Tuesday at 11am and 2pm. 100 Pythian Road, Santa Rosa, 833-2148.

$35: Mayo Family Winery Reserve Room
One of the original wine and food pairing spots in Sonoma Valley, Mayo offers a 7-course tasting with their reserve wines. Reservations suggested: 9200 Sonoma Highway, Kenwood, 833-5504.

$30: Kendall Jackson Wine Center
KJ Chef Justin Wangler isn’t just a good winery chef, he’s a great chef, period. With access to Kendall Jackson’s own extensive kitchen gardens, local meat purveyors and in-house pastry and bread bakers, the modestly-priced Reserve Food and Wine Pairing is one of Wine Country’s best values. Focused on the winery’s small-production, limited-release wines, it’s a seven-course tasting that starts with seasonal bites including (this fall) Lobster-pumpkin bisque (Chardonnay), buckwheat crepes with prosciutto (Riesling), a sweet tea brined pork belly slider (Syrah), Cabernet braised short rips with stone ground grits (Cabernet), Spiced Carrot Cake with Ginger Foam (late harvest Riesling) and KJ’s famous Mama Frischkorn’s Caramel Corn (late harvest Chardonnay) — caramel corn so good you’ll be begging for the recipe (which Wangler will happily give you). Daily with an appointment, 5007 Fulton Road, Santa Rosa, 576-3810.

Pinkies Down
$15 White Wine Flight, $20 Red: Thumbprint Cellars
No reservation needed for red or white wine flights at this casual Healdsburg wine tasting room. Different chefs are featured each month (most recently it’s been Chef Garrett Adair), bringing their A-game to the tasting menus. The White Flight (Riesling, viognier, rose) comes with an artisanal cheese plate, flatbread, fruit and organic honey. The Red Flight includes Red Wine Blends with (this month) a Mediterranean meatball, bitter green salad with black truffle vinaigrette and pickled mushrooms and pork belly and beans. Vegetarian options available. 102 Matheson St., Healdsburg, CA 95448. Open daily 11am to 6pm, Fri & Sat 11am to 7pm.

$5-$10, Portalupi Winery Tasting Room
We thought it was a joke when someone told us this Healdsburg tasting room served Cheetos, Pringles and Cheezits with their wine. Really? But low-brow meets high-brow in this casual tasting room where, according to tasting room server Nicholas Amtower, “Super premium wine doesn’t come with pretentiousness.” The staff decided to have a little fun with their wine pairings by serving up rec room staples because, according to Amtower, “You got cheese, you got salt, and that makes for a great wine pairing.” So what works best? Pringles are best with the Bianco and Russian River Pinot. The Cheetos and Cheezits are reserved for the big reds. We say purple teeth and orange fingers are the new look for fall. 107 North St., Healdsburg, 395-0960. Open daily 10:30am to 7pm.

Free: Williamson Winery
Only a couple of Australians would have the nerve to open a tasting room in downtown Healdsburg and not charge a tasting fee. What they know, however, is that once you’ve sat down for one of their famous wine and food pairings — featuring what owners Dawn and Bill Williamson call “fridge foods”, you’ll likely be hooked. With one of the most avid Wine Clubs around, food is a big part of the Williamson tasting experience. Chefs Patty Schroeder and Todd Muir (with some insight from Dawn), have created simple, yet wonderful mini bites of curried cashews (Viognier), tri tip with mustard (Red blend) and brownie bites (Merlot) or honey and blue cheese (Cabernet Sauvignon) on the complementary menu. Reserve tastings ($25 to $40) include a sit-down tasting, and more extensive bites from the chefs. Reservations are strongly recommended, since the tasting room can get crowded, 134 Matheson Street, Healdsburg, 433-1500.

What are some of your favorite spots for wine pairings?

Top Chef Season 9: The SoCo Connection

November 2011

By biteclub

Just a week into Top Chef Season 9, more than a dozen contestants have been unceremoniously chopped in Austin. From a pool of nearly 1,000 candidates, a record 29 chefs appeared on the season’s premiere, vying for the final 16 spots. Among them, two chefs with Sonoma County connections: Former Carneros Bistro Chef Janine Falvo and Chicago Chef Chuy Valencia who grew up in Santa Rosa.

Falvo hit the “bubble” — a sort of purgatory — early in the show and never made it forward (she opined it was for a lack of visible tattoos, which she attempted to rectify with a purple Sharpie to the forearm). But Valencia seems to be a serious contender after sailing through Round 1.

The owner of Chilam Balam, a Mexican restaurant in downtown Chicago, his saucy small plates have garnered critical acclaim and a nod on Guy Fieri’s Diner’s Drive Ins and Dives). But the Santa Rosa High School grad grew up inspired by his mom, Leticia’s homestyle cooking. And his dad’s barbecuing.

“He used to get his hand in everything. He’d put his hands on the spices and put a little bit of this, that in everything. He was always watching me and his mother,” said Jesus Valencia, Chuy’s father, who lives in Santa Rosa. As a child, Chuy divided his time between Santa Rosa and Colima, Mexico where his grandfather had a family orchard and was a butcher by trade. He was always interested in food and all the good things to eat on the farm,” said Jesus.

Chuy’s favorite foods? “Anything with meat. I got him hooked on barbecue. The staple was meat, he’d eat steak and eggs or chilaquiles in the morning,” said Valencia. Another favorite: Cecina, a sort of Mexican beef jerky. When he’s home, Jesus said a favorite restaurant is Sonoma’s Girl and the Fig. Raised in Sonoma County with parents who grew food in their own backyard and always had some good to eat on the stove, he’s brought much of that influence to his Chicago eatery, supporting sustainable local ranchers and farmers.

It’s obvious from videos of Chuy, that he’s got a serious swagger and doesn’t mince words — as evidenced by plenty of bleeping in his bio. Jesus laughs it off, “He does not take no for an answer. Growing up we thought he could have been a lawyer. He can open doors. He’s a talkative guy.” Hired as a sous chef at age 19 by celeb chef Rick Bayless, Valencia quickly made it through the ranks at Frontera Grill and Topolobampo, and claims to be a favorite of former boss Bayless.

So does dad know the outcome of the season? “I tried to ask him. But he can get into a heap of trouble if he says anything until the competition is over. I know he can’t divulge anything, but I wish he would,” said Valencia. Either way, Jesus and wife Leticia said they’re already proud of Chuy. “The competition is really good this season. They interviewed like 1,000 chefs, and he got his chef jacket. I hope he goes all the way, but i’m proud already. Anything else is icing on the cake.”

Watch Top Chef at 8pm and 10pm on Bravo each Wednesday Night.