Sur La Table’s Chef Les Goodman and Farmhouse Inn’s Pastry Chef Pattie Taan host a pop-up dinner June 27, 2012 at 6:30pm.
This 3-course, sit down dinner will focus on farm fresh ingredients and highlight the very best of the season. Chefs Les and Pattie will be shopping at local farms and farmers markets, and the best and freshest ingredients they find will dictate the evening’s menu. Guest are invited to help in the preparation of the meal or just sit back, relax, and enjoy the show.
The price of the dinner is $55pp, and attendees are invited to shop at the store after-hours on the night of the dinner with a 10% discount.
Guillermo Gonzalez of Sonoma Artisan Foie Gras / Christopher Chung PD
Guillermo Gonzalez of Sonoma Artisan Foie Gras / Christopher Chung PD
Just days before the July 1 foie gras ban goes into effect, the national non-profit Animal Legal Defense Fund has filed a complaint with the California Attorney General’s office asking her to sue foie gras industry advocates who they claim are disseminating false and misleading information about humanely produced foie gras. Named in the complaint: Napa’s Ken Frank of La Toque, Guillermo Gonzalez of Sonoma Artisan Foie Gras, Rob Black of the Golden Gate Restaurant Association and New York’s Hudson Valley Foie Gras.
Why? The timing of the complaint comes just days after foie gras enthusiasts seem to have found some support in Sacramento. Though the legislature pushed aside last minute efforts to overturn the bill in 2012, there are reports that at least one legistlator, Sen. Lois Wolk of Davis may be interested in authoring legislation to repeal the ban in 2013.
“I don’t like single-product bans, period,” Wolk told McClatchy Newspapers on Sunday. “These are never easy issues, usually characterized by a lot of intense feeling and not much fact. The chefs have been very open in how to approach this, and now we have a chance to look at this.”
With a new round of chef pushback, animal rights activists including the ALDF have continued to fight against “gavage”, the practice of force feeding geese used for foie gras production. ALDF’s complaint asks Attorney General Harris to use her power to commence civil enforcement action in superior court against the industry advocates under California’s Unfair Competition Law. For each false or misleading statement addressed in the attorney general’s complaint, the court has the power to impose fines of up to $2,500. The ALDF has also filed a complaint with the Better Business Bureau.
This brawl ain’t over folks. Expect more fierce foie fighting to come.
It’s a trucking weekend at the former Infineon Raceway this weekend as mobile kitchens from around the Bay Area hit the tracks. Throughout the Toyota/Save Mart 350 NASCAR Sprint Cup Series trucks including Awful Falafel, Marks the Spot, Sift Cupcakes, Street Eatz and Cheese Gone Wild will be serving up everything from wood-fired pizza to hand-rolled sushi.
Who needs to scream for ice cream? We’re dairy lucky to have some of the region’s best frozen treats–from beer floats to gourmet popsicles and paletas–cooling off the county.
We’ve found some newcomers to the scene and defrosted some old favorites for your summer scooping.
Shave Ice at Ono’z: If you’ve ever eaten fresh snow, you’ll understand why Hawaiians don’t appreciate their shave ice being compared to snow cones (which are more like icy slush). Grinding ice into powdery snowballs, Ono’z owner and native islander Jocelyn Nelson does an authentic version with guava or mango syrup. She dolls them up with a scoop of vanilla, passion fruit or coconut-pineapple ice cream and, for purists only, an additional dollop of sweet azuki beans. She’ll also whip up halo-halo for devotees, a Filipino cooler made with evaporated milk, shaved ice, ice cream, jackfruit, beans, taro and, well, a host of other tasty tidbits you’ll have to have her explain. During lunch hours, they also serve loco moco and Hawaiian barbecue plates. Open 10am to 5pm Monday, Wed-Sun. 16218 main St., Guerneville, 604-7150.
Cinnamon Tortilla, Maple Bacon Ice Cream at Frozen Art: The Alcazar family are legends in making Michoacana-style ice creams. Since opening in 2011 (originally as La Real Michoacana), their lineup of 40-plus flavors has continued to expand, and now includes maple bacon, cinnamon tortilla, lemon olive oil and zinfandel chocolate chip. What’s here today, however, may be all scooped up by tomorrow. But don’t worry, Jorge and his dad have plenty more flavors yet to conquer, including Gansito (a Twinkie-like cake popular in Mexico) and champagne. What’s in a name? Like many other local neverias-owners, the Alcazars hail from Tocumbo, Mexico’s ice cream-making capital, and sometimes competition between countrymen (and even relatives) can get intense. A recent flap among local businesses calling themselves “Michoacana” ended up in name changes for all but the Sonoma neverias. The Alcazars ice cream, however, knows no borders. The family is now making customized flavors for Ono’z and Karla’s Ice Cream (27 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg) and do production for Real Cool Frozen Treats. 500 Sebastopol Road, Santa Rosa. Also worth a try: Fru-ta (2770 Stony Point Road, Santa Rosa, 542-6026); La Michoacano (18495 Highway 12, Sonoma) or Colores (443 Dutton Ave., Santa Rosa, 526-6661).
Gourmet Fruit Pops at Real Cool Frozen Treats: Don’t call these popsicles. Chef Maria DeCorpo’s frozen ice pops are made with seasonal produce and organic ingredients. A regular at the Wednesday night market in Santa Rosa, her ice cream cart is stocked with flavors like apricot-almond, melon-mint, lemon and key lime, strawberry and Mexican chocolate. Also at the Rohnert Park Farmer’s Market on Friday. facebook.com/realcoolfrozentreats for details on locations and new flavors.
Chinese Five Spice Salted Caramel Ice Cream Sandwiches at Flour Girl: Healdsburg’s Shannon Moore hits all the right buttons with this exotic frozen treat. Sweet, salty, spicy and totally cool. She makes each batch from scratch, restocking weekly at The Cheese Shop (423 Center St., Healdsburg, 433-4998).
Beer Floats: Root beer makes a good ice cream float. Beer makes an excellent ice cream float. The mix of sweet, bitter, hoppy and fizzy is some serious grown-up fun in a glass. Coconut Porter Ice Cream Float at Sprenger’s Tap Room (446 B St. Santa Rosa, 544-8277); Moonlight Float at Flavor Bistro with Death and Taxes black lager (96 Old Courthouse Square, Santa Rosa, 573-9600); Imperial Stout ice cream float at Lagunitas Brewing Company Taproom (1280 North McDowell Ave., Petaluma, 778-8776).
Vanilla Maple Bourbon Ice Cream at Glen Ellen Star: Half-pints of house-churned ice cream are available for take-out or as an apre-dinner treat from Chef Ari Weiswassen’s new restaurant. Other flavors include malted milk chocolate, roasted peanut butter and Taylor Maid Farms espresso. 13648 Arnold Dr., Glen Ellen, 343-1384.
Campfire Milkshake at Flipside: Toasted marshmallows, vanilla ice cream and a finger of Johnnie Walker Red. Ahhh, camping. 630 Third St., Santa Rosa, 523-1400. Also try: Healdsburg Bar and Grill led the charge on the boozy shake craze, and still has some of the best (245 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, 433-3333); of if you’re more heels than hiking boots, Petite Syrah’s S’Mores with chocolate cake, marshmallows, burnt chocolate and graham cracker ice cream (205 Fifth St., Santa Rosa, 568-4002).
FroYo, yo: The frozen yogurt boom feels like the 80s all over again. Everyone’s got a neighborhood favorite where the toppings are fresher, the portions bigger, the flavors tarter. Among the best, Moxie’s (8930 Brooks Rd. South, Windsor, 836-1665); Screamin’ Yogurt (1620 Mendocino Ave., Santa Rosa,542-2500), Yogurt Farms (1224 Mendocino Ave., Santa Rosa, 576-0737), Tutti Frutti (1425 Fulton Road #301, Santa Rosa, 988-3737; 519 Fourth St., Santa Rosa), Snowbunny (312 Center St., Healdsburg, 431-7669), Honeymoon Frozen Yogurt (7108 Bodega Ave., Sebastopol, 829-9866).
Pssst….secret ice cream spot: Petaluma is home to Three Twins ice cream factory, but strangely enough, Sonoma County has only one place where you can buy this highly sought-after ice cream by the scoop: The Petaluma Golf Center. So until we get a scoopery of our own (ahem, Marin and Napa already have them) here’s your hook-up. 200 Stony Point Rd., Petaluma, 778-0696. You can, of course, also get it at area Whole Foods stores, as well.
And of course, no article about frozen treats could ever be written in Sonoma County without a nod to the duchess of desserts, the sultana of summertime and the cream of the creameries, Screaming Mimi’s. We salute you. 6902 Sebastopol Ave,m Sebastopol, 823-5902.
Still hungry? Of course you are. Check out Heather’s always-updated food and dining blog at BiteClubEats.com.
Healdsburg loves a restaurant opening. Even more so when it includes a bocce court, Mugnaini pizza oven and Chef Ari Rosen.
The popular Scopa owner opened his second restaurant, Campo Fina, this week, after months of secrecy over the design and concept. Turns out it was well worth the wait.
The food, of course, is Italian, but focused around small plates and pizzas rather than the heartier pastas and entrees at his original restaurant. Design-wise, the big reveal is a large covered patio in back that’s big enough for a bocce court, 65 seats (including a large family table), a wood-fire pizza oven and food-prep “shack” and even a bar. Even locals familiar with the space in previous iterations gasped at the transformation. “I didn’t even know this space was back here,” was most often repeated. Inside are reclaimed fixtures, rough brick walls and cozy red banquettes.
On the menu, Cichetti (little bites), Forna A Legna (wood oven) and Antipasti (small plates). Best bet is to start at the top and work your way down the list, nibbling here and there and ordering as you go. Carried over from Scopa is Larry Pacini’s ciabatta bread and DCV EVOO ($3.50), which is exactly what ciabatta should be with a crackling crust and moist, chewy inside. Honey roasted carrots with coriander and bread crumbs ($6.50) are sweet, almost to a fault, but with each bite yield with a perfect texture.
Wood-oven pizzas are all the rage in Wine Country, and there are as many styles as there are Mugnaini ovens dotting the vineyards. Too often crusts get blistered and burnt, and carbon is only delicious on campfire marshmallows. Here, simple mushroom, sausage or Margheritas ($12.50 to $15.50) get the kiss of the oven without being smothered.
Small plates are made for sharing, and are mostly 6-8 bite portions. Best bets: Smooth chicken liver pate (served in a mason jar) with peach relish and grilled bread ($8.50); charred octopus with wild chicory and potatoes ($11.50) and yellowfin tuno crudo ($13.50) served with tangy yogurt, fennel, radishes and sea beans. If you’ve ever questioned dairy with fish, the spritz of lemon and spanking fresh flavors in this dish will realign that thinking. Picnic chicken, pan-fried light and dark cuts, was good, but failed to reach the heights of the rest of the menu.
The best desserts are simple affairs, a brilliant buttermilk panna cotta with crumbles of biscotti, torn basil and cherries or sliced Dry Creek peaches in zinfandel.
[sh-slideshow-post id=”24265″]
The wine list runs two pages, well-curated with ten by-the-glass sips and a full page of Sonoma County and Italian reds. Wine cocktails are beer are also available.
If there’s a complaint, it’s only perhaps that the outdoor chairs aren’t made for American derrieres, pinching and squeezing in all the wrong places. The patio can get boisterous with kids and families enjoying themselves–which is kind of the whole point of this uber-casual eatery. So if you’re looking for a quiet rendezvous, update your expectations.
Though the motto, “When you’re here, you’re family,” may belong to an Italian mega-chain that dreams of authenticity like Campo Fina, it certainly fits. So pull up a chair, grab a glass of chianti and manga, manga!
Open for dinner daily, beginning at 5:30pm. 330 Healdsburg Ave. at North St., Healdsburg, 707-395-4640.
For weeks, a single century plant stalk has reached toward the sun outside Pack Jack Bar-B-Que readying for its decade-in-the-making bloom. Now more than 10 feet high, the aptly-named succulent is bursting into life suddenly, brilliantly after years and years of inactivity.
In its shadow, a long-cooled brick oven fire has been re-lit and a legendary roadside restaurant re-opened. Yep, Pack Jack is back.
A little history, first. For the uninitiated, Pack Jack was a favorite Sonoma County barbecue outpost halfway between Cotati and Sebastopol for years. Owned by the Harris family, it’s an unassuming roadhouse that you’d pass by without a second glance. Natives of Egypt, Texas, their brick oven smoker and Texas-style meats had a following of fans that bordered on cultish. After a fire gutted the restaurant in 2004, the ovens went cold and the Harris family moved their operation to Vallejo, promising to someday return.
Reconstruction on the spot started and stopped without explanation in recent years, but mostly faltered. Then quietly, and without fanfare, Robert Harris (son of original owner Donnie Harris) re-opened on June 15, alerting friends and neighbors with wafts of burning oak, sizzling meat and a cryptic message or two on Facebook.
And though Harris hoped to keep the opening mostly under wraps until July, word is out.
Open Friday through Sunday from 11am to 10pm (to start), it’s a family affair with uncles, cousins and grandkids involved in cooking and waiting tables. Like any serious barbecue restaurant, the menu is simple and straightforward: Chicken, ribs (both pork and beef), sliced beef brisket, hot links (made in house) and lamb.
Being Texas-style ‘que, it’s about the rub and the smoke. Sauces are secondary, and with bark like this, it’s icing on the cake. Sweet sauce, mild sauce and hot sauce. You pick. Chicken and brisket are stand-outs. Do not leave without a combo plate of these two (about $16). Ribs are a more a matter of taste: They were chewier than I prefer but my dining pal, Mike, who is a meat and barbecue devotee, gave them a thumbs up. Hotlinks are salty, spicy, meaty sausages that you either love or leave. BiteClubber Rick gushes: “The hot links were just like the old days (bringing tears to the eyes from heat and great taste).” We skipped the lamb, mostly because the portions are intensely huge.
Barbecue without sides, of course, is sacrilege and all dinner and combo-plates come with two. The sweet barbecue beans come from a 100-year-old family recipe, and all Robert will tell you is that yes, they have cumin in them. Potato salad tastes like homemade and the coleslaw has a vinegar base rather than mayo (“thank God”, says Mike). There is beer in a bottle and soda in a can. The menu tempts with sweet potato and pecan pies, but so far they haven’t materialized. Perhaps soon.
There’s no air-conditioning, and the smell of smoke permeates the no-frills interior, so if you aren’t up for sweating and smelling like a campfire, take-out might suit you better. But regulars live for the ambiance, especially when Robert, an imposing figure in a cowboy with a smile as wide as Texas strolls through the room.
Whether this is Sonoma County’s most-authentic barbecue will be debated hotly over the next several weeks, perhaps years. To find it, just look for the century plant that will bloom briefly, to guide you. Otherwise, your nose should work just fine.
Pack Jack Bar-B-Que, 3961 Gravenstein Hwy. South, Sebastopol, 827-3665. Open limited hours during opening, cash only.
Riding the mechanical bull at KJ’s. (photo Digital Barrett)
Riding the mechanical bull at KJ's. (photo Digital Barrett)
After 17 years of boot scootin’, line dancing, honky tonk, Thirsty Thursdays, bull riding, and the infamous Miss KJ contest, Kodiak Jacks Honky Tonk & Restaurant is packing up their mechanical bull and calling it a day come mid-July. In their dust, many are left feeling disappointed by the loss of the country bar, especially since it was the only nightspot open for the 18+ crowd at the end of the week to dance the night away.
But the loss won’t be felt for long.
While the owners are bidding farewell to their Petaluma location, they’re starting fresh with Mavericks, their new nightclub in Santa Rosa. Mavericks is slated to open July 19th, and is boasted to be the largest nightclub and live music venue in the North Bay with a capacity of 700. They’re amplifying their dance lessons with workshops and couples dancing, and also introducing a new menu with non-traditional pizzas – think “taco pizza”, “Reuben pizza”, or “Mac-and-Cheese pizza”.
But while they’re expanding their restaurant, music genres, dance floor, and hours they are open, many of the things we love about KJ’s will be carried over to the new Maverick’s. There’s still the 18+ nights, karaoke, country line dancing, Friday night live band nights, and the all ages Family Night on Sundays. Plus, Monday nights you can sing karaoke with a live band, and Tuesday caters to the LGBT crowd.
Located at 397 Aviation Blvd, Ste E in Santa Rosa, Mavericks is easy access from the freeway, and centrally located from anywhere in Sonoma County. For more information visit their website at maverickssantarosa.com (website still in progress), or keep informed on all the changes at the Kodiak Jack’s Facebook fan page at facebook.com/kodiakjackspetaluma.
J.M. Rosen Cheesecake owner Jan Rosen is reportedly taking over Graziano’s in Petaluma, according to Petaluma Patch. Owner Graziano Perozzi plans to retire from the historic restaurant at 170 Petaluma Blvd. North. Rosen owned J.M. Rosen’s Waterfront Grill in the Golden Eagle Shopping Center and Rosen’s Eastside Grill, and was involved in a Petaluma nightclub. She sold her stake in all three after the death of her sister and business partner, Michelle, in 2004.
Mike and Kendra McCoy are returning to the cafe and catering company they sold last spring. The couple have been asked to bring their longtime expertise back to the business after a reorganization of the company now owned by Chef Josef Keller and wife, Jill Keller-Peters.
“Recent months have proved to be disappointing and it is thought that their experience will help to improve the future business. [We] will be evaluating the present circumstances and making some constructive changes where appropriate,”said Kendra McCoy.
Locations at Fourth Street and on Mendocino Avenue remain open for business. The company will no longer operate a cafe at Kaiser Permanente. “We hope all customers, new and old, will visit us soon,” said McCoy.
Keller purchased the business from the McCoy’s last winter, after a overhauling the county’s Meals on Wheels food program. He shuttered his longtime restaurant, Josef’s in 2010. The Kellers are currently maintaining ownership.
“We needed to step back and are looking for new opportunities in our lives,” said Keller.
Napoleon once said that an army marches on its stomach. The translation from French, perhaps, could better be interpreted as “the poor sap who gets the job of planning a meal for an army-sized group will feel like his stomach has been marched on.”
No matter the season or reason, families, friends and business associates gather to break bread, and the age old question arises: Where can I take a group to eat out? Usually with some amount of panic. With family vacations in full swing (and a recent rash of urgent pleas for local restaurants able to accommodate parties of eight or more) it seemed an opportune time to survey the local landscape for large tables and crowd-friendly dining. Depending on the crowd you’re entertaining, here are some spots we found around Sonoma County…
Crowd etiquette
Restaurants are usually happy to accommodate groups of all sizes, but if you’re taking up half the restaurant, there are some expectations on you as well.
– It goes without saying, of course, that showing up with a party of 18 and demanding a table on the spot is unlikely to be successful unless you’re there at 4pm on a Tuesday. And even then, your server will be scrambling. Call well in advance (at least 48 hours, and at higher-end restaurants several weeks ahead) for a reservation.
– Keep in mind that you’re obligated to show up if you make a large reservation. Some restaurants may ask for a deposit, which is standard, considering that extra staff may be needed to accommodate the group. If something happens and you have to break the reservation, call as soon as possible and let them know so they can release the spot.
– Tipping is customary. However, with large groups, restaurateurs sometimes automatically include a gratuity of between 15 and 20% with your bill. You’re welcome to add to that.
– Don’t ask for ten separate checks. Two checks is usually okay, but beyond that you’re causing a headache. Work out who’s paying in advance. Your poor planning isn’t your server’s problem.
– Be a group you’d like to sit next to. It’s understandable that a group of ten people might get a little louder than a table of four, but keep it reasonable. Shouting, loud laughing and joking around with your friends is okay in a private space, but in public, its just annoying to everyone else.
– If you make a mess, clean it up or give an extra tip. Big groups, especially with small children, are a nightmare to clean up after. Try to keep chaos under control. If things get a little out of hand, be sure to leave some extra gratuity for the poor souls left behind to pick up.
Wedding Guest Crowd: Ca’Bianca
Sweet Victorian ambiance, good food and cordial service keep Ca’Bianca at the top of wedding-related dining lists around Sonoma County. Pastel-colored private dining areas, a tasteful chapel and banquet room are mother-in-law approved. 835 2nd St., Santa Rosa, 542-5800.
Sit Outdoors and Drink Margaritas Crowd: La Rosa Tequileria
A large patio, endless chips and fire-roasted salsa, top-shelf margaritas and a central downtown location make this a hot-spot for gatherings. Mexican-American favorites are crowd pleasers, and the nearby fountain will entertain the kids for hours. 500 4th St., Santa Rosa, 523-3663.
Family Crowd: Healdsburg Bar and Grill, Kin Windsor
If pizza, burgers, ice cream plain noodles or chicken fingers aren’t on the menu, beware of bringing unseasoned diners under the age of 16. All of these restaurants are guaranteed child-friendly, with food (and beverages) for grown-ups. Plus easy-access to outdoor spaces for runnin’ around. Also good: Mary’s Pizza Shack, Union Hotel at various locations in Sonoma County. HBG, 245 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, 433-3333; Kin Windsor, 740 McClelland Dr., Windsor, 837-7546.
The Big Birthday Crowd: Birthday: Stark’s Steakhouse Secret Cellar
You’re 40. You’re 50. Whatever. Grab your best friends and celebrate that you’ve made it through another year of life. Stark’s Steakhouse has a secret wine cellar dining room that accommodates you and 13 of your besties. You’ll get a special dessert with best wishes written in chocolate, and the best news: Whatever happens in the cellar stays in the cellar. 521 Adams St., Santa Rosa, 546-5100. Another secret spot: The upstairs room at Caffe Portofino 535 Fourth St., Santa Rosa, 578-3096.
Star-Struck Crowd: Johnny Garlic’s
Your in-laws insist that they must go to a Guy Fieri restaurant before leaving Sonoma County, right? Indulge the Fieriness inside you, and head over to Johnny Garlic’s. The drinks are strong and there’s a large private back room for large groups. 1460 Farmers Lane, Santa Rosa and other locations. 571-1800.
Cinema-Fan Crowd: Rustic at Francis Ford Coppola winery
If the castle-like location, pool and Francis Ford Coppola’s personal collection of movie memorabilia doesn’t wow your guests, the food will. Rustic has top-drawer Italian-influenced Wine Country dining and million-dollar views. Prices reflect that luxury. 300 Via Archimedes, Geyserville, 857-1400.
Lazy Susan Crowd: Kirin
Chinese dining is, by default, community dining. Plus, who can deny the thrill of whirling away grandma’s sweet-and-sour pork just as she reaches for the turntable? Zoom! Our grandma’s favorite spot for this kind of torture is the Bennet Valley Asian-American eatery that continues to pack in families. They’ve got several tables set up for 8-10 folks, depending on how much you like to squeeze. 2700 Yulupa, Santa Rosa, 525-1957.
Gastro-Crowd: Diavola, Estate
Housemade, well, everything brings chef cred to these eateries. Diavola gets extra nods for being in out-of-the-way Geyserville (food snobs love the hunt) while Estate brings historic charm and upscale class to the table. Artisan salumi? Yes. Hand-crafted cheeses? Yes. Unusual cuts of meat? Affirmative. Stellar wines from winemakers that won’t be written about in the mainstream press for another six months? But of course. Diavola, 21021 Geyserville Ave, Geyserville, 814-0111; Estate, 400 W. Spain, Sonoma, 933-3663.
Added: Spoonbar
At the funky h2hotel, the expansive dining room is a scene, especially on warm days and evenings when the glass doors open onto the sidewalk. Owners say they can usually accommodate groups with short notice and the bar is always a great spot for hanging with friends. 219 Healdsburg Avenue,. Healdsburg, CA, (707) 431-2202
Beer Crowd: Hopmonk
Beer. Food. Music. Patio. You’re the fraternity/Elks Group/soccer team hero, bro! Eminently dude-friendly. 230 Petaluma Ave., Sebastopol and 691 Broadway, Sonoma. 829-7300.
Breakfast Crowd: Sam’s for Play
Though there are plenty of great breakfast diners in Sonoma County, most just aren’t set up for big groups. If you’re getting your scrambled eggs for a crowd, Sam’s for Play is set up for big eaters and big groups. Plus, the thousand-or-so items on the menu are sure to please even picky eaters. 2630 Cleveland Ave. and 1024 Sebastopol Rd., Santa Rosa.
Really Big Crowd: Sally Tomatoes
Most hotels offer banquet and event catering, but Sally Tomatoes is a favorite for bistro-casual dining for a big crowd. The Sonoma Mountain Village space can hold up to 500. 1100 Valley House Dr., Rohnert Park, 665-9472.
Sur La Table’s Chef Les Goodman and Farmhouse Inn’s Pastry Chef Pattie Taan host a pop-up dinner June 27, 2012 at 6:30pm.
