Torc opening in Napa

Sean O’Toole of Torc restaurant opening in the former Ubuntu space.
Sean O'Toole of Torc restaurant opening in the former Ubuntu space.
Sean O’Toole of Torc restaurant opening in the former Ubuntu space.

Popular Napa chef, Sean O’Toole opens the doors to Torc on Monday, Nov. 25, ending more than a year of speculation as to who would go into the former vegetarian restaurant/yoga studio, Ubuntu. Biteclub’s a big fan of O’Toole, who has roots in Sonoma County, and has cooked at a number of high-profile Bay Area restaurants including SF’s Cotogna and Quince and Napa Valley’s Bardessono and Hopper Creek Kitchen.

We’re especially excited to hear about his plans to showcase finds from superstar forager Connie Green (a Good Food Award nominee and author of “The Wild Table”) on his menu. His opening lineup includes Bengali Sweet Potato Pakora with Yogurt-Truffle Dip ($5), Violet Artichoke Soup with Chanterelle Mushrooms, Mint and Lemon ($10), Jamón Ibérico with Grilled Garlic Crouton ($15), Dungeness Crab Salad with Buddha Hand, Satsuma Mandarin, Avocado and Herb Salad ($14), Housemade Strozzapreti with Pecorino Romano, Tellicherry Pepper and Dino Kale ($13), Hudson Ranch Heritage Pork with Cheddar Grits, Collard Greens and Mustard Sauce ($25) and Roasted Chicken for Two with Black Spice, Coconut Rice and Spicy Bok Choy ($41).  Dessert includes items like Mt. Tam Cheese with Piment D’Espelette Marmalade and Pickled Chanterelles ($6) and Napa Meyer Lemon Tart with Smoked Hazelnut Ganache and Sable Breton ($9).

Insiders say not much has been done to the chic space since its Ubuntu days, including the open kitchen and soaring 30 foot ceilings. The former yoga studio has been converted to a private dining area.

The curious name, Torc, pays homage to O’Toole’s Celtic roots, meaning “boar” in Gaelic. But to the chef, it’s an emblem of convivial feasting and hospitality. The restaurant will open for dinner only from 5:30 to 9p.m. daily, with brunch service starting in January.

1140 Main St. at Pearl St., Napa, (707) 252-3292. torcnapa.com.

Tofurky: Yum or yuck?

Is tofurky really an alternative to turkey?
Is tofurky really an alternative to turkey?
Is tofurky really an alternative to turkey?

The poor Tofurky. The football shaped loaf of tofu has been a running joke at Thanksgiving tables for years. Tofu instead of turkey? As if.

Thing is, you’d be hard-pressed to find an omnivore who’s ever tasted one. So BiteClub took on the challenge of cooking up the odd blob of tofu and spices with a rice and stuffing surprise in the middle. With Tofurky gravy. First off, it cooks up in about 90 minutes in a casserole dish to which you add carrots, onions and potatoes. Baste with some olive oil, soy sauce and dried sage. The scent is heavenly, and in the time it takes to get old Tom turkey dressed, seasoned and trussed, Thanksgiving is served.

Our unofficial taste test results: It’s pretty darn good. In fact, moister than a lot of turkey breasts I’ve had. The flavor is true to the traditional holiday bird, although there’s a definite “tofu” aftertaste. It’s a reasonable alternative if you’re cutting back on your animal proteins, can’t cook worth a darn (it’s pretty foolproof) or just want something a little different this year.

At least one reprieved turkey will thank you.

Available in the freezer section of most grocery stores.

Mariah’s Fight: Help Out

mariahMariah Roat, 22, is in the fight of her life, facing Stage 4 colon cancer. The La Rosa Tequileria and Grill employee has garnered the support of La Rosa and many of the North Bay’s restaurant industry folks for a massive fundraiser on Nov. 21, 2013 from 11am Thursday to 2am Friday. During that time, 100% of sales, tips, donations and prayers received go directly to Mariah.

In addition, the restaurant will hold a silent auction from 4-8pm featuring luxury items and from local vendors including:

* Spa treatments for two and room stay at The Meritage Spa and Resort Napa
* Golf for four at Foxtail Course and Patron Golf bag
* 4 night stay at private home on Catalina Island
* Pearls gifted by E.R. Sawyer
* Camping gear provided by Marmot
* Snowboards, gear and lift tickets to Sugar Loaf
* Exclusive private taste pairings and winery tours by Portalupi Wines, Stag’s Leap, Chateau St. Jean and more
* Lash Extension Set by LashOut!
* Wine Paired Chef Dinner for 12 in Stark’s Steak House Wine Cellar
* Exclusive Signed Tequila Ambassador Book by Tomas Estes
* La Rosa Tequila Dinner Tickets
* La Rosa Bottle Service Package

The restaurant will feature special menu items along with live music in their upstairs lounge.
500 Fourth St., Santa Rosa.

Can’t make it in person? Donate online.

Thanksgiving in Sonoma County 2013

wholefoodsthanksgivingSure, Thanksgiving is a time for gathering ’round the family table, but who says it has to be yours? Instead of spending hours slaving in a hot kitchen, there are plenty of eat-out, pick-up and “who has to know you didn’t make it?” options throughout Sonoma County.

This year, celebrate turkey day in a new way. Just remember to get a doggy bag for those post-Thanksgiving turkey and stuffing cravings. Here are some of our favorite spots throughout Sonoma County.

Santa Rosa

Stark’s Steakhouse & Seafood: Roast turkey, Chef Mark’s andouille sausage and blue cheese stuffing, traditional giblet gravy and pomegranate-cranberry relish, $26. Also offering dessert specials, pumpkin pie and Mamma Janne’s cream cheese pie. Most regular items available, including raw bar and seafood dishes, but the restaurant won’t be serving burgers or entrée Caesar salads on Thanksgiving day. 2-7pm, 521 Adams St, Santa Rosa. Reservations highly suggested: (707) 546-5100 or via Open Table.

Willie Bird’s Restaurant: Family-favorite serving up local Willie Birds. Full holiday turkey dinner along with other menu items. Reservations required and most are nailed down well in advance, but some walk-ins accepted. Open until 8pm. 1150 Santa Rosa Ave., Santa Rosa, (707) 542-0861. Can’t get in for Thanksgiving: Grab a turkey Monte Cristo on Black Friday.

Cafe Europe: Four course diner, $39, from 1 to 6pm includes selection of mushroom ravioli, turkey, filet mignon, lamb loin and wild boar ragout. 104 Calistoga Road  Santa Rosa, (707) 538-5255

John Ash and Co.: Three-course holiday menu includes porcini mushroom soup with black truffles, duck terrine, butternut squash ravioli, roasted turkey, cranberry brined pork tenderloin, spiced pumpkin creme brulee and an apple cheddar tart. $65pp, $35 kids under 12. Call for reservations. 350 Barnes Rd., Santa Rosa, (707) 527-7687.

Brasserie at the Hyatt Vineyard Creek: Three course dinner includes butternut squash soup, Dungeness crab cake, roasted turkey, salmon, flat iron steak, pumpkin cheesecake and apple cobbler ala mode. $42pp, 170 Railroad Street, Santa Rosa, (707) 284-1234.

Healdsburg

Dry Creek Kitchen: Three course menu includes housemade charcuterie, sugar pie pumpkin soup, thyme-brined turkey, braised short ribs, steak frites, butternut squash ravioli, bourbon pecan pie. $65 per person. Served 2-7pm; 317 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, (866) 458-7224

Cocina Latina: Thanksgiving Yucateca-style. Mateo Granados’ restaurant serves up Tacones with trout roe, Relleno Blanco de Pavo (Diestel Family Farm turkey with hard boiled egg centered embutido, white gravy “Mayan k’ol”, Soda Rock tomate frito and sea salt hand-made tortilla), traditional Thanksgiving turkey and sticky bun flan.  $55 per person, serving 11:30am to 7:30 p.m. Reservations recommended, (707) 433-1520 or on Opentable.

Spoonbar: A casual four courses include scallion and cheddar biscuits, slow roasted turkey, bread pudding, ginger molasses glazed carrots, turkey and ham cassoulet, apple tarte tatin.. $60 for adults and $25 for children. 219 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, (707) 922-5426.

Sonoma
Carneros Bistro and Bar at Lodge at Sonoma: Chef Andrew Wilson prepares a three-course menu of Butternut Squash Soup, Roasted Turkey with chestnuts, “Square Pig” (pork confit with brioche dressing and Blue lake beans), dayboat scallops, pumpkin or pecan pie. Thanksgiving dinner will be served on Thursday, November 22 for $65 per person and $35 for children. 1325 Broadway St., Sonoma,(707) 935-6600.

girl and the fig: Four course menu including fig and arugula salad, roasted squash salad, roasted turkey roulade with cornbread stuffing, prime rib, wild mushroom ravioli and pumpkin cheesecake. $57 per person. 110 West Spain St., Sonoma, (707) 938-3634.

Depot Hotel: Four courses at a favorite Sonoma bistro features corn chowder, roast turkey with sage stuffing. Other entrees: poached salmon, orecchiette pasta with butternut squash, veal picatta or beef shortribs. Cheesecake, pumpkin pie or chocolate decadence with mango sauce. $37 $45pp, seatings from noon to 7pm; 241 First St., West, Sonoma, (707) 938-2980.

Sante: An epic Thanksgiving buffet that puts all other buffets to shame. The highlight reel: Butternut squash with creme fraiche, shrimp cocktail, assorted charcuteries, artisan cheeses served by the Maitre Fromager, smoked salmon and caviar, classic Caesar, ricotta tortellini salad. Carving stations of Diestel turkey with brioche and sage stuffing, filet mignon, but wait there’s more…pumpkin ravioli, sea bass, lamb, mashed potatoes, Brussels sprouts, artisan breads, pumpkin pie, chocolate Bourbon tart, pumpkin cheesecake, cherry macaroons, pear and ginger financier, gingerbread and so much more. $99pp, (707) 939-2415.

Inn at the Tides: Bay View  Restaurant features a feast of roasted turkey, pumpkin ravioli, lasagna Bolognese, grilled salmon, lamb, filet mignon and more from 1 to 8p.m., 800 Highway One, Bodega Bay, (707) 875-2669.

Petaluma
Central Market: Always a favorite in Petaluma, Chef Ton Najiola celebrates his annual Thanksgiving dinner with four luscious courses. $60pp, $84 with wine. Kids under 12, $20. 42 Petaluma Blvd N., Petaluma, (707) 778-9900.

Pick It Up

Thanksgiving by Whole Foods: Recently I saw a chef literally cringe when he heard the words .99 cents per pound and turkey. People, even though you’re only eating it once a year, have enough respect for your taste buds (if not the turkey) to commit to something that’s humanely-raised, organic (if possible) and for heaven’s sake tastes good. I’m a huge fan of Diestel turkeys, raised in Sonora. They taste delicious, especially when someone else roasts them to perfection and your only job is to reheat it on Thanksgiving morning.

Along with pre-cooked (and non-precooked) turkey, they have gravy (sans lumps), sides, pies, and other desserts in a mix-and-match combination you can order online. Details at the Whole Foods website.

G+G Market: Complete dinners will run you between $59 (for a 12 lb turkey) to $99 for a gourmet dinner that includes brandy-marinated cranberry sauce, a free range Willie Bird turkey and white truffle mashed potatoes. ORDERING DEADLINE IS MONDAY, Nov. 25. Santa Rosa 546-6877 , Petaluma 765-1198.

Red’s Apple Roadhouse open

The PudNut, basically fried bread pudding. Noms.
The PudNut, basically fried bread pudding. Noms.
The PudNut, basically fried bread pudding. Noms.

Red’s Apple Roadhouse opens in West County Wine Country: Takeout fried chicken and donuts are on the opening menu for the re-opened Sebastopol roadhouse along Highway 116. You’ll know you’re in the right spot by the cheerful boar’s head sign (eating an apple, of course) and the fact that it’s located right next to Mom’s Apple Pie. Co-owner Berry Salinas has come up with a bevy of creative fried goodies that start the day right: apple cider donuts, the “Pudnut”  (donut bread pudding), apple fritters and Bella Rosa coffee to wash it down. Order up your fried chicken dinners for pick up Tuesday through Saturday (707-861-9338) from 4-6:30 p.m. complete mashed potatoes and coleslaw on the side.

Lunch service began Nov. 14 and is ramping up to include burgers, onion rings and other goodies. Full dinner and sit-down dining planned for December.

Gastronomist Pop Up

joeGastronomist Pop-Up at Forchetta in Sebastopol: Chef Joe Rueter, who’s been a BiteClub favorite since his long-ago days as the Green Grocer in Windsor, is launching a temporary restaurant-within-a-restaurant Thursdays through Saturdays at Forchetta Restaurant in Sebastopol. You may know him from area farm markets, where he serves up mind-blowing seasonal dishes using ingredients from his farm on little more than a couple of griddles, like the best-ever BLT, steamed pork buns and duck tacos. Lunch and dinner from 10a.m. to 10 p.m. with a variety of dishes from fish tacos and applewood grilled quail to lamb burgers, their famous BLT and several vegan options (sprouted salad, miso noodles). Wine and beer will be offered. 6948 Sebastopol Ave, Sebastopol.

12 Days of Chefmas

meadowood1Each December, luxe resort Meadowood Napa Valley, and its three-Michelin star chef, Christopher Kostow put together a lineup of international chefs and winemakers that have culinary sorts clapping their hands with the kind of glee reserved for five-year-olds on Christmas morning. We call it the twelve days of Chefmas. They simply call it the Twleve Days of Christmas at Meadowood Napa Valley. Pricing for the dinners isn’t for penny-pinchers, but if you can swing the $1315 (and up) price tag, they’ll reserve you a seat at the table (plus lodging) with Pok Pok’s Andy Ricker and Mike Grgich of Grgich Hills(Dec. 6), David Chang of Momofuku with Turley Wine Cellars, (Dec. 13), Matthew Accarrino of SPQR with Tuck Beckstoffer with his namesake wines(Dec. 14), David Kinch of Manresa  with Notre Vin and Malbec and Malbec Cellars(Dec. 20) or the host, Christopher Kostow with…wait for it…Harlan Estate. There are only sixty seats available per dinner, so you’ll be in exclusive company. Or, you know, you can stand outside with your nose pressed against the window panes, drooling, like us. Details online at meadowood.com.

Kenwood Restaurant Re-opening

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It’s an almost uncomfortable moment when Chef Max Schacher, the longtime toque of the iconic Kenwood Restaurant, lifts a glass to the new owners and young chef taking over his restaurant. “Sante!” we say, clinking wine glasses, but Schacher quickly disavows me of any feelings that the moment is bittersweet. “I think it’s great!” he says of new owner Bill Foss (of Fish in Sausalito, sustainable seafood company TwoXSea and the recently-opened Canetti’s in Forestville) and young chef Anthony Paone. And it’s not hard to see why.

The entire focus for the new venture is an ode to Valley of the Moon’s colorful history, from the indigenous Wappo tribe to Spanish settlers, Buena Vista founder Agoston Haraszthy de Mokesa to the restaurant’s former life as “Bunny’s Fried Chicken”. Both Foss and Paone have painstakingly researched everything about the area, incorporating foraged herbs, a Hungarian-inspired beef stew, trout from Foss’ McFarland Springs trout farm, local rabbit sausage and “Bunny Wings” (fried rabbit forelegs)–a nod to Bunny’s on their proposed opening menu.

BiteClub got a first look at several dishes on a pre-opening night supper, and they’re stunners–even in previews.

Shying away from now-meaningless words like “farm to table” they’re simply calling the food “Sonoma cuisine”. Favorites included duck and hominy soup with a poached duck egg; a refined yet earthy rabbit sausage using both meat and offal; a take on cioppino that will ruin you for any other; fingerling potatoes with trout roe and sour cream and Foss’ pink trout with cornbread stuffing–destined to be a signature dish. Don’t get too attached to anything, however, since Paone is dedicated to changing things up frequently.

Of course, regulars will notice plenty of changes, including an updated interior, bocce court and outdoor pond which now sits where the giant metal wings once hovered outside.  Still around, however, is the whimsical animals-in-chef-hats freize that once graced the historic Poodle Dog restaurant in San Francisco.

The restaurant is in soft-opening as of this week, with a grand-opening in the coming weeks. 9900 Sonoma Highway, Kenwood. Check out pictures of my meal at BiteClubEats.com.

Bake-A-Thon

Please select a time on Nov. 17 or 18 to bake. You may bake your own cookies, or volunteer to make someone else’s cookies. Times are in 90 minute appointments. MOST ingredients will be provided, but please contact me if there are special items you’ll need.

The Bake-A-Thon will take place at G+G Market from 9:30am to 6pm on Nov. 17 and 18.

PLEASE CLICK HERE TO REGISTER FOR A TIME SLOT. THERE IS NO COST.

Bite Size Restaurant Guide

Woodfour Brewing company at The Barlow shopping/ restaurant area (photo by Chris Hardy)

These spoon-size portions of previous restaurant reviews by Jeff Cox include his overall rating, based on a four-star scale.

Price guide:

$ – Inexpensive, all entrees under $12

$$ – Moderate, entrees $12 to $17

$$$ – Expensive, entrees $17 to $24

$$$$ – Very expensive, entrees $24 and up

Backyard, 6566 Front St., Forestville, 707-820-8445, backyardforestville.com. The farmers, ranchers and fisherfolk who produce just about every ingredient of every item on the menu are listed by name — and they’re almost all from Sonoma County, and right around Forestville. This is great in-season, locally produced food, ably handled in the kitchen. The wines are local, too. On Wednesdays, a family-style fried chicken dinner is offered. When the place fills up, it gets too loud, and the service can be spotty, but the good locavore cooking helps smooth the rough spots. Reviewed 12/9/12. 2 stars. $$-$$$

Belly Left Coast Kitchen & Tap Room, 523 Fourth St., Santa Rosa, 707-526-5787, belly707.com. Belly raises the bar for gastropubs in the North Bay, with wonderfully flavorful renditions of staples such as pizzas, burgers, steaks, barbecued pulled pork, crab cakes, salads and more. Chef Gray Rollin has been the tour chef for many popular music acts, and you can imagine band members appreciating his way with comfort food. Twenty-six beers on tap and 26 more by the bottle offer extensive choices for ways to wet your whistle and whet your appetite. Reviewed 4/28/13. 2½ stars. $-$$

Bistro 29, 620 Fifth St., Santa Rosa, 707-546-2929, bistro29.com. We’re lucky to have a restaurant in our area that serves the food of Brittany in northwestern France. The cuisine features beautiful buckwheat crepes, both savory and sweet, with myriad choices of fillings. Brittany is known for its excellent chicken and seafood, and chef Brian Anderson makes delicious entrees with locally sourced versions of both. Great wine list of French and local wines, too. Reviewed 5/19/13. 3 stars. $$$

Bistro Des Copains, 3782 Bohemian Highway, Occidental, 707-874-2436, bistrodescopains.com.  This very authentic Provencal-style bistro in the charming village of Occidental is the kind of place that a tourist, stumbling upon it, would write home about. Real-deal onion soup, raclette melted cheese, feuilleté of escargot, great pissaladière, mushroom crème brulee, braised rabbit in mustard sauce, steak frites with sauce Béarnaise, and so much more. Reviewed 3/17/13. 3 stars. $$-$$$$

Bravas Bar de Tapas, 420 Center St., Healdsburg, 707-433-7700, starkrestaurants.com/bravas. Owners Mark and Terri Stark traveled to Spain and fell for the wine-loving, snack-munching, pal-schmoozing culture of the tapas bar scene there. So they brought it back home to join their four other Sonoma County restaurants. The backyard of the pre-war house that’s home to Bravas was transformed into an al fresco venue for tapas-style conviviality. The snacks are extraordinarily diverse and delicious. Scads of Spanish and local wines and sangrias await. Reviewed 12/16/12. 3 stars. $$-$$$$

Café Citti, 9049 Sonoma Highway (Highway 12), Kenwood, 707-833-2690, cafecitti.com. Luca and Linda Citti found the key to success when they started their trattoria in Kenwood a couple decades ago: Forget fancy trappings and serve really good Italian food at reasonable prices. It worked (it always works) and Café Citti has been thrilling taste buds ever since. The basics — lasagna, tortellini or ravioli in brodo, rotisserie chicken, cannoli, tiramisu — are all here and done beautifully. It’s the kind of hole in the wall that pleases locals and visitors alike. Reviewed 10/28/12. 3 stars. $$

Café Lucia, 235 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, Suite 105, 707-431-1113, cafelucia.net. The same highly flavored Portuguese food that has made LaSalette such a hit over the years in Sonoma is now available in Healdsburg. The kitchen turns out dishes created by executive chef Manuel Azevedo, and his sister, Lucia, hosts and runs the business. The siblings are co-owners. It’s a bright and tasty addition to Healdsburg’s already-superior food scene. The caldo verde is perfect, seafood stew is terrific, and all the entrees shimmer with intense flavor. Reviewed 1/20/13. 3 stars. $$$

Canneti Roadhouse, 6675 Front St., Forestville, 707-887-2232, cannetirestaurant.com. Canneti Roadhouse primarily serves Tuscan food that chef/owner Francesco Torre learned to love as a child in Italy. That means a local version of the Mediterranean diet, with lots of fresh vegetables, olive oil, bread and meat (especially game). A four-course seasonal Tuscan tasting menu is a good bet, and each course can be paired with wine. During clement weather, there’s al fresco dining out back. Reviewed 5/26/13. 2 stars. $$$-$$$$

Chalkboard, 29 North St., Healdsburg, 707-473-8030, chalkboardhealdsburg.com. This hideout for tired tourists and thirsty, hungry locals is a refreshing break from the insistent gentrification going on around it in Healdsburg. A full bar offers cocktails in a comfy setting, and the rustic décor encourages patrons to relax. The small-plate dishes of chef Shane McAnelly are modestly priced and tasty, and include the best sliders in town, raw items, house-made pastas and seafood. Reviewed 6/23/13. 2½ stars.  $$

Chef Patrick’s, 16337 Main St., Guerneville, 707-869-9161, chefpatricks.com. Although the food is billed as California-French, it also includes several Italian dishes. And since chef Patrick is Vietnamese, there’s a Southeast Asian accent to some of his cooking. His many influences do not result in chaos, but rather in a refined cuisine that includes fish, fowl and beef. He likes to amp up the flavor of such popular dishes as beef ragu, which is all to the good. Reviewed 2/10/13. 2½ stars. $$-$$$

Cindy Pawlcyn’s Wood Grill and Wine Bar, 641 Main St., St. Helena, 707-963-0700, cindypawlcynsgrill.com. Renowned Napa Valley chef Cindy Pawlcyn (Mustard’s, Cindy’s Backstreet Kitchen) is making perfect pizzas in the wood-fired oven at newest restaurant. The menu also features all-American favorites such as crispy calamari, rosemary roast chicken, short ribs, rib-eye steak and of course, a juicy burger. The wine list is huge, with likely the most wines by the glass of any restaurant in Napa Valley. Reviewed 12/23/12. 3 stars. $$-$$$$

Empire Napa, 1400 First St., Napa, 707-254-8888, empirenapa.com. An upscale, contemporary cocktail lounge with small plates of excellent, international-style food, with influences from Europe, Asia and the Americas. Patrons sit on comfy couches and sip beautifully made cocktails from low tables while watching the jellyfish in their tanks. Snack around the menu, and stay until 2 a.m. Fridays and Saturdays. The carrot cake is the best ever. Reviewed 7/7/13. 3½ stars. $$-$$$

Heritage Public House, 1901 Mendocino Ave., Santa Rosa, 707-540-0395, heritagepublichousesr.com. This is the perfect place to hang out, sample two dozen beers, ales and ciders from all over California (exclusively), and enjoy pub grub that’s a cut above average in provenance and quality. The focus is on good ingredients well prepared: fish tacos, big, beefy burgers, salads, sandwiches, fish and chips and nightly specials. Reviewed 10/6/13. 3 stars. $

Hiro’s Japanese Restaurant, 107 Petaluma Blvd. N., Petaluma, 707-763-2300, hirosrestaurant.com. Hiro’s is an exceptional Japanese restaurant. It goes beyond just fresh and lovely versions of the usual Japanese dishes (although it does have them on the menu) to bring true gourmet Japanese cooking to Sonoma County, including hard-to-find dishes of interesting seafood specialties. From the arty décor to the swift and smiling service, it’s a real pleasure to dine at Hiro’s. Reviewed 8/25/13. 3½ stars. $$-$$$

Jackson’s Bar and Oven, 135 Fourth St., Santa Rosa, 707-545-6900, jacksonsbarandoven. This beautifully designed restaurant in the Railroad Square district is the place to meet friends and hang out. The wide range of drinks and a menu chockablock with well-crafted American dishes including burgers, pizzas, braised short ribs, fish tacos and great desserts – don’t miss the beignets – add up to a place you like to be in, with a staff that likes you in return. Reviewed 9/1/13. 3 stars. $$-$$$$

John Ash & Co., 4330 Barnes Rd., Santa Rosa, 707-527-7687, vintnersinn.com. This remains the most soigné restaurant in Sonoma County, and the Pat Kuleto-designed Front Room is the comfiest watering hole imaginable. Chef Thomas Schmidt keeps the restaurant’s reputation for fine food burnishing bright, using fresh, local and seasonal ingredients whenever possible. In fact, it was this restaurant that invented Wine Country cuisine. It’s a great place for celebrations of any kind. Reviewed 2/3/13. 3½ stars. $$$-$$$$

Pamposh Restaurant, 52 Mission Circle, Suite 110, Santa Rosa, 707-538-3367, pamposhrestaurant.com. This small but mighty Indian restaurant occupies a nondescript corner of a shopping center, but the food is anything but nondescript. It offers full-on Indian and Kashmiri cooking, with lamb, chicken and vegetable curries; a signature dish of lamb in an apricot and coconut sauce; and marinated and flash-cooked tandoori chicken. There’s also house-made yogurt drinks, perfect creamed spinach and soft cheese, and much more. Reviewed 7/21/13. 3 stars. $$

SEA Thai Bistro, 2323 Sonoma Ave., Santa Rosa, 707-528-8333, seathaibistro.com. The food at this upscale (many appetizers are $10 or more, many entrees $22) Thai restaurant can be very, very good, or not, depending on what you order. Generally, the featured entrees, such as the Angel Eggplant Chicken and the baked duck breast, are excellent. The spiciness is toned down for the American palate, and ingredients are organic or sustainably grown whenever possible. Reviewed 4/14/13. 2 stars. $$-$$$

Shige Sushi Japanese Kitchen, 8235 Old Redwood Highway, Cotati, 707-795-9753, shige-sushi.com. This small, cozy room in the heart of Cotati has a big surprise for lovers of Japanese food. This is one of the best Japanese restaurants in the North Bay. The appetizers alone are worth the trip — albacore with thin rounds of jalapeño peppers, poke salad, fried chicken karaage — and much more, all well-prepared by chef Shigekazu Mori. Reviewed 3/10/13. 3½ stars. $$

Social Club Restaurant & Bar, 132 Keller St., Petaluma, 707-238-0158, socialclubrestaurant.com. This smart watering hole in downtown Petaluma has a lot going for it. Several beers on tap and in bottle help the schmoozing along, while the California-style food is well prepared and tasty. The room is bright and airy, thanks to the many tall windows, and the staff seems genuinely pleased to greet and seat you. Cocktails are available, and the desserts are excellent. Reviewed 10/14/12. 2½ stars. $$-$$$$

Speakeasy, 139B Petaluma Blvd. N., Petaluma, 707-776-4631, speakeasypetaluma.com. One of the chief virtues of Speakeasy is that it stays open for food and drink until 2 a.m. every day. Chef Dindo Borja, originally from Guam, prepares an eclectic mix of sandwiches, tacos and tapas with influences from all over the Pacific. The Taco Trio is a winner: pork belly, chicken and salmon tacos are plenty for a meal. Yes, there’s beer and wine, but none of the hard stuff. Reviewed 5/12/13. 2 stars. $-$$

Taqueria Mi Pueblo, 800 Petaluma Blvd. N., Petaluma, 707-762-8192, realmexmipueblo.com. Hefty portions and very reasonable prices make this taqueria and its four sister locations in the North Bay popular, indeed. The menu has just about every item you’d expect from a big taqueria, from individual tacos to big combo plates, molcajete stews and a $22 gigantic burrito that can serve an entire family. Oh, and the food is good, too. A full bar serves cocktails, including margaritas and daiquiris. Reviewed 11/18/12. 2½ stars. $-$$

Terrapin Creek, 1580 Eastshore Rd., Bodega Bay, 707-875-2700, terrapincreekcafe.com. Owners Andrew Truong and Liya Lin have fashioned one of the most charming restaurants in Wine Country, and her cooking is a shining example of locally sourced ingredients used in refined and thoughtful dishes that never fail to please. Simple soups and salads come to life. Entrees are rich and bold, such as lamb sugo over pappardelle, and glazed baby back ribs. The cooking is pure Californian with a hint of French and Asian. Reviewed 3/24/13. 3½ stars. $$$$

101 Thai Way, 1198 S. Cloverdale Blvd., Cloverdale, 707-894-9999, 101thaiway.com. This little storefront next to a Starbucks is turning out some of the best, freshest-tasting Thai food in Wine Country. The space is clean and upbeat, with snappy service and food better than you’d expect for such a modest restaurant. The vegetables are just-picked fresh, the portions generous and the prices inexpensive. Serving many Thai favorites, lots of daily specials and other Asian dishes, Thai Way is a real find. Reviewed 2/24/13. 2 stars. $-$$

The Girl & The Fig, 110 West Spain St., Sonoma, 707-938-3634, thegirlandthefig.com. The food has never been better at this successful restaurant, since proprietor Sondra Bernstein and executive chef John Toulze have been expanding their repertoire during world travels. The wines are all from Rhone grape varieties grown here, in France and in Spain. The full-flavored menu goes perfectly with the French country theme. Duck confit, steak frites, wild flounder meuniere, pastis-scented mussels — there’s so much to like. Reviewed 2/17/13. 3 stars. $$-$$$

Woodfour Brewing Company, 6780 Depot St., Sebastopol (in The Barlow), 707-823-3144, woodfourbrewing.com. It’s just what you want in a restaurant — something new and different. The brewery makes a range of distinctive beers and ales, and has a cupboard full of bottled beers from all over the world. The food is as ingenious as the beers, and beautifully displayed on the plates. It shows great creativity on the part of the chefs, as they combine unlikely ingredients into exceptionally delicious dishes. Reviewed 9/8/13. 3½ stars. $$