In-Spiraled Food

Through Dec. 21, Sonoma’s best locally-grown wheat (yes, really!), corn meal, beans, duck eggs, mushrooms, goat milk natilla, sustainable meat, hand-collected kelp and seaweed, chicken pot pies, jams, immunity broth and small-batch olive oils can grace your table via the FEED Sonoma and Spiral Foods Co-Op Holiday Purchasing Program. It’s a carefully curated — and ever expanding — collection of artisan produce, oils, soaps and grains made available via their virtual storefront and available for pickup each Tuesday at the Sebastopol Grange. It’s a convenient way to get some of your farm market favorites along with exclusive buys (like the wheat and Ceres goodies) in one convenient box. Plus, you’re doing good: 80 cents of each dollar go back to the farmers. Go to goodeggs.com/feedsonoma for details on ordering.

Shige Sushi Cotati: Authentic Japanese

Shige Sushi in Cotati features authentic Japanese Cuisine
Shige Sushi in Cotati features authentic Japanese Cuisine

Shige Sushi in Cotati is a bento-box sized sushi bar with just 22 seats, including the bar.

But the Japanese owners have cracked the code on affordable, yet luxe Japanese favorites with authentic karaage (fried chicken), spicy poke salad, top-notch nigiri and sashimi and a laundry list of rolls (including plenty of gaijin-style mayonnaise/fried rolls).

For the price, its the best sushi I’ve had in years. Clearly others agree, because it a popular neighborhood gathering spot where chatting with the table next to you is not only polite, but expected.

Open for lunch and dinner, but not all entrees are available for lunch and the sushi bar can sometimes be out of specialty products like tamago or uni. For dessert, matcha mousse is anything but mousse-like, but its firm consistency and earthy green tea flavor make it worth ordering.

Open Tuesday through Friday, closed Monday. 8235 Old Redwood Hwy, Cotati, shige-sushi.com.

Wanted: Chefs in the field

Bloomfield Organics Farms in Sonoma County offers CSA boxes, tours and farm market produce. Photo: Heather Irwin.
Bloomfield Organics Farms in Sonoma County offers CSA boxes, tours and farm market produce. Photo: Heather Irwin.
Bloomfield Organics Farms in Sonoma County offers CSA boxes, tours and farm market produce. Photo: Heather Irwin.
A box of veggies harvested on Sunday

There are a lot of restaurants that pay lip service to “farm-to-table” menus, but you’ll find precious few toques with “dirt cred” — actually getting their feet in the fields.

Bloomfield Farms in Valley Ford is inviting 20 chefs to take part their pilot year of Chef’s Passport, a three-month program of farm visits, one-on-one discussions about sustainable farming, specialized produce offerings and participation in the “farm to table” ethos and experience. Details at bloomfieldfarmsorganics.com.

Secret Life of Pie (Crust)

Are you a lard or a butter cruster?

Find out the secrets to a perfect pie crust (hint: it’s lard), how to impess guests this holiday season, the difference between all-butter and all-Crisco and taste through some finished products on Wednesday, Nov. 7.

Chef John Lyle hosts this rousing Square Belly Food Theater production at the Arlene Francis Center (99 Sixth St., Santa Rosa) at 6:30p.m.

Donation $20 or whatever you can pay. More info at facebook.com/SquareBellyFoodTheater

Estes Preps for Second Iron Chef Attempt

Local Chef Duskie Estes has won her spot on the Next Iron Chef, Road to Redemption, which debuts on the Food Network Sunday, Nov. 4, 2012.

Estes was one of four chefs to pre-compete in a series of webisodes for the coveted tenth spot on this season’s competition, which brings back returning chefs who’ve lost in previous seasons. Estes competed in Season 3, but lost her bid for glory after four several episodes.

BiteClub caught up with Estes to see how she’s faring…

Q: So you’re on your way back to becoming an Iron Chef, what’s the hardest part of the Road to Redemption?

A. It is the same this time as last; being away from my family and businesses and farm for so long is hard. Being judged meanly to make good TV is hard to stand up to. Being good at what you do in your restaurant is irrelevant. You are not in charge of the challenge, the ingredients (which are utmost to me), or the time.

Q: Which chef are you most worried about competing against?

A. I think Elizabeth (Falkner) deserved it last time. She is fierce. But you cant really think about them. You just have to put your head down and cook.

Q: You made no bones about your kerfuffle with Alton Brown the first time round. How’s it going this time?

A: Alton and I definitely continue to jab at each other. I think he likes it. It’s the same banter in kitchens during service. But he does know how to get under my skin.

Q. What’s the funniest thing about competing/backstage that you can tell your fans? What’s an inside scoop we might not know about on the set?

A. Each episode takes at least 3 long days to shoot. There is a lot of down time hanging out and no good food. The best part of it for me is the relationships you make with the other chefs.

 Q. What will you do differently this time around?

A. Plate to the judges sensibility rather than my own and not worry about seasonality, which is a driving force behind my food style. They don’t care about seasonality at all.  I was stubborn last time to hold onto my style. They want to see certain things. I will try to walk the line of being myself and giving the judges what they want.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Checkers Closes

Downtown restaurant Checkers  (523 4th St., Santa Rosa) has closed for good.

Restaurant owner Katherine Castillo posted the following message on the restaurant’s website.

For over 21 years, countless wonderful meals have been shared by countless amazing people here at Checkers. So many of you are like family. Thank you for letting us be a part of your lives. Thank you for the millions of smiles, hugs and laughter. Thank You all so much for the support and blessings that you have been a part of. It has been an honor and a pleasure to serve you.
Best wishes,

Katherine

The restaurant closed for a remodel a year ago.

The grange is the new community center

Grange Master Lawrence Jaffe outside the Sebastopol Grange Hall in October 2012.

In Sebastopol, a new generation embraces the ideals of a historic agricultural fraternity

Three years ago Santa Rosa attorney Lawrence Jaffe decided he needed to do something about the graffiti on the side of the long-neglected Sebastopol Grange Hall. So he became the Grange Master.

Want to join a Grange in your area? All granges are open to anyone interested in the ideals of the Grange. An application and membership “oath” is required, along with nominal membership fees.Other granges actively looking toward the future include Grange #851 in Petaluma, which meets at the Baker Creek Seed store; The Sonoma Grange, which is is working on a new commercial kitchen to support the local community and the Hessel Grange in Sebastopol, which sponsors everything from grower exchanges to yoga classes.You can find out more about California Granges, including historic granges in Rincon Valley and Bennett Valley, and a list of other local granges in Sonoma, Lake, Marin and Mendocino counties at californiagrange.org.

That’s a bit of a simplification, but Jaffe nonetheless likes to show people around the outside of the squat 1948 hall along Highway 12 that’s recently been painted a tasteful sage green.

“See, it looks good, right?” he asks, giving an impromptu tour of the exterior, pointing out the dusty, burnt scrub around the building he plans to plant with vegetables in the spring. Meanwhile, young farmers haul in bags of local rice, wheat and produce inside to sell to co-op members the following day.

It’s quite a change from three years ago when Grange Hall #306 had only five members and was beginning to crumble to dust. Since becoming Grange Master, Jaffe’s helped raise that number to 120 with young homesteaders, DIY producers, greenhorn farmers and political foodies. The parking lot is frequently full as members (anyone is free to join) participate in movie nights, community dinners, re-skilling classes, discussions on banking and renewable energy. Additionally, the Sebastopol Grange supports political causes (such as Prop 37) and is hosting a local food cooperative’s nine-week food purchasing program. Jaffe’s group is also working with 4H, the Future Farmers of America and actively working to raise money for scholarships.

The Sebastopol Grange, like about 40 other Granges in California are experiencing a resurgence with the flood of interest in local food systems, organic farming and farmer’s markets. The historic ideals of the Grange — community, political action, education, self-empowerment and the appreciation of agricultural work — speak as much to modern society as they did in its founding in 1870.

Jaffe, a well-known environmental activist and member of the county’s Community Development Commission Board, FarmLink and former farmer, is somehow the most likely and most unlikely guy to be running one of the state’s oldest agricultural fraternities. Organized in Sebastopol in 1898, Grange #306 is one of 11 granges in Sonoma County, and one of about 169 in the state. But #306, like many other granges, had fallen into dusty, disuse over the years, as family farms fell onto hard times and the agricultural population aged. Few urbanites even know the purpose of a grange anymore.

“The principles of what the Grange was founded on are what we need right now,” said Jaffe. That means fostering community, sound economics, taking care of our land and eating clean food. “This is the time for a Renaissance,” he said. “We are re-occupying the halls and serving our communities,” said Jaffe, 47, who is easily a decade or two younger than his Grange Master predecessors, wears an Food Justice T-shirt up-cycled from the Goodwill and peppers the conversation with progressive ideas like ” community resilience”, “post carbon” and “GMO-free”. “That represents my community,” he says of the mix of new and old ideas fomenting in the heart of Sebastopol.

“It’s too bad that a word like ‘toil’ is so out of fashion, but that’s what we’re honoring — the farmers who built this hall and this County. We want to preserve their legacy and welcome future farmers to learn agricultural arts,” he said.

Nationally, there are around 350,000 grange members and that number is growing. Jaffe says Sebastopol may be slightly ahead of the curve, but that community-gathering places like the Grange are integral to the nation’s future. “It’s time to inspire people to action. If we are getting ready for the future, that means taking care of our self, and our local community. To do that we need a place to come together and transfer ideas for growing food and growing our local economy.”

And while much of the membership are already among the “converted” when it comes to sustainable food sheds, organic produce and the ideals of food justice, Jaffe’s says that anyone can grow a tomato.

“America needs 50 million new farmers,” he says of the need for individuals to move toward self-reliance and responsibility toward their own food. But at the end of the day, its also about bringing people together. “Look, we’re having a good time by brining in good food, music, speakers, ideas and supporting our local food economy,” he said.

 

Forget the sow’s purse

A tisket, a tasket, a pig-ear-filled basket at Willi’s Wine Bar in Santa Rosa.

Listen up pork fans, pig ears are on the menu. Though they’ve been spotted at various events around town, Willi’s Wine Bar has the gusto to put them on the menu. Crunchy, soft and chewy at the same time, these spare parts are a tasty bar snack served up with jalapeno aioli food good measure. And hey, whatever you don’t eat will surely be relished by Fido, who’s no stranger to this part of the squeal. 4404 Old Redwood Highway  Santa Rosa, 526-3096.

The Parish Cafe: New Orleans in Healdsburg

This restaurant has changed hands since this original review, but remains a favorite.

“The first time you walk in, we want you to feel like you’ve been here a hundred times,” says Bradley Blanchard, setting down a half pound Muffaletta sandwich on my table with a wink. Despite looking easily half my age, he’s called me “Baby” at least three times, with the same kind of boyish Southern charm as his cousin, Parish Cafe owner Rob Lippincott. I can’t say I mind being fawned over. Nor will you.

With all of the easy of The Big Easy, Lippincott’s New Orleans cafe draws you in with homey charm, Southern comfort and a menu that’s pure French Quarter. Open for breakfast and lunch Wednesday through Sunday, you’ll be hard-pressed to find more authentic Louisiana cooking this side of the mighty Miss.

Breakfast includes a crawfish and Andouille omelet;($11) Egg St. Charles (poached egg with fried trout, $14); Shrimp Grits with Creole tomato sauce ($12), Pain Perdu (French toast with bananas and Bourbon sauce, $9) and Lippincott’s signature Beignets (three for $5), which he’s sold for several years at local farm markets. You’re required, at least by me, to eat those beignets — lightly fried pastries with a dusting of powdered sugar — with Cafe au Lait ($3.50), a heavenly mix of half-and-half and chicory coffee often associated with the famous Cafe Du Monde.

Lunch is a hearty affair with ten different Po-Boys — the signature sandwich of New Orleans served on a light and fluffy French baguette. Lippincott’s in-laws (who own nearby Costeaux French Bakery) make the loaves specially for the restaurant, which are stuffed with fried shrimp, fried oysters (go for the half-and-half, with a mix of both oysters and shrimp), catfish or fried green tomatoes (half or King-sized, $7-$15). Several come with “debris” gravy, pronounced day-bray, a salty, meaty roast beef au jus (which I ordered on the side to dip my fries). The Muffaletta (another NOLA staple) is round of focaccia piled with ham, salami, mortadella, provolone, mozzarella and house-made olive spread ($12-18).

What you’re absolutely here for, however, is the gumbo, made with chicken and Andouille in authentic Southern style with okra, tomatoes, green peppers and served with white rice ($6). Order a side of feather-light hush puppies ($4) and fried okra (which is breaded fresh, so there’s no slime, $3).

You’ll pull away from the table full, no matter what you order. It’s Lippincott and Blanchard’s mission to send you away happy.

“This could easily become a habit,” says a customer waddling out the door. But not before Lippincott hollers after him, “Come back soon, ya’ll.” 60A Mill St., Healdsburg, 431-8474.

Cyrus goes out with a $15,000 truffle


What does a $15,000 Umbrian white truffle look like? Well, looks aren’t everything.

The key is so you can get an idea of the size of this bad boy.

The brain-sized fungus that’s been purchased for a closing-week dinner at Cyrus Restaurant isn’t the most photogenic thing you’ve ever seen. It’s sort of lumpy and dusty, and weighs roughly the same as three baseballs.

But this gnarled gnome of a tuber is worth roughly the cost of a brand new Ford Fiesta. Not to mention a whole lot tastier.

Grown primarily in Italy, the scent — that earthy, seductive, musky odor of a truffle — envelopes you. In fact, the scent envelopes the room. Purchased wholesale for about $5,600, the truffle is the guest celebrity on a special menu being served at the Michelin-starred Healdsburg restaurant during its final week of operation, says chef-owner Douglas Keane. Portioned-out in shaves and slices, the truffle will ultimately end up selling for between $10-15,000.

“It’s pretty rare. They do get much bigger, but this is probably the biggest one I’ve ever worked with,” said Keane.

It’s a delicious farewell for the Healdsburg restaurant, which has been sold-out for months after announced that it would close for good at the end of October. A drawn-out conflict with the building’s landlord resulted in the decision to shutter. Keane and business partner Nick Peyton have not announced future plans, but remain involved with Healdsburg Bar and Grill, also in Healdsburg.

Chef Paul is looking a bit giddy. Don’t drop it, man!