If you missed Terra Madre, or even if you went, check out the publication that brings together the values, ideals and stories of preserving our food heritage around the word.
Slow Food Almanac for 2012 online

If you missed Terra Madre, or even if you went, check out the publication that brings together the values, ideals and stories of preserving our food heritage around the word.
Here are my absolute favorite cookbooks of 2012…
1. Smitten Kitchen Cookbook, Deb Perlman
Everything…just everything in this cookbook from blogger Deb Perlman screams “Cook Me!” The combination of creative recipes, lush photography and chatty “you can do this” writing make it a must-have for the holidays.
2. Jerusalem by Yotam Ottolenghi and Sami Tamimi
As much a social commentary on life in this melting pot of a metropolis as cookbook, Jerusalem dives into the homey, rich heritage of Jewish and Palestinian cooking. Even if you didn’t think you like Middle Eastern food, you’re likely to change your mind perusing the pictures and reading the stories of this insightful cookbook.
3. Canal House Cooks Everyday by Christopher Hirsheimer and Melissa Hamilton
Seasonal cooking is great, but Canal House cookbooks take it to an extreme — creating recipes for each day of the year. Beautifully illustrated with photos from the pair’s New Jersey kitchen and workshop.
4. Pioneer Woman Cooks, Ree Drummond
Every food writer has a food blogger they love to hate. Ree is mine. Mostly because I’m so jealous. She’s a great mom, has her own show, makes delicious food and creates recipes that just work out perfectly. I frequently consult her website for weeknight meal ideas, and I haven’t been let down yet.
5. Art of Fermentation, Sandor Katz
Fermenting is brilliant. Especially for your gut. Learn how to get fizzy, bubbly and fermented with the king of fermentation.
A few others I loved earlier in the year…
Japanese Farm Food, Nancy Singleton Hachisu, Andrews McMeel Publishing, $35
The most beautiful book released this fall is this love letter to the simple, pure foods of the Japanese countryside. American-born, Nancy is married to a Japanese egg farmer, over the years adopting the community, culture and cuisine of an ancient, rural Japan as her own. Written as both memoir and cookbook, Hachisu describes the book as, “…just our Hachisu family food. It is a compilation of traditional dishes that my husband grew up with and new ones that he or I created. I had never seen a cookbook that approached Japanese food in the way my husband did–main ingredient and field or fish market driven so I never felt compelled to cook the recipes I saw in other books.” And while many of the pickled, preserved flavors and ingredients may seem foreign to American palates, but Hachisu bridges the gap with simple, homey preparations.
Bouchon Bakery, Thomas Keller, Artisan, $50
It’s so cute that any of us think we could actually make croissants like the famed Yountville bakery run by culinary rockstar Thomas Keller. Oh, we can certainly try, and this new book written in a breezy, sweet style does actually lull you into thinking this recipe blueberry muffins with almond streusel might turn you into a morning hero. But it takes years to become as deft with butter and flour as Keller and co-author/executive pastry chef Sebastein Rouxel . So buy the book, set it in your kitchen and dunk your Oreos in milk while dreaming of buttercream and the perfect French macaron.
101 Classic Cookbooks: 501 Classic Recipes, edited by Fales Library, Rizzoli, $50
Like a mix-tape of just the good songs, this cookbook assembles the best of the best recipes as chosen by the likes of Jonathan Gold, Michael Pollan and Ruth Reichl from the 55,000 cookbooks of the Fales Library at New York University. That means tried-and-true classics such as Julia Child’s Boeuf Bourguignon, Elizabeth David’s Bouillabaisse, Marcella Hazan’s Bolognese Ragu, Jacques Pepin’s Brioche, James Beard’s Pig Hamburgers, and Irma Rombauer’s Devil’s Food Cake Cockaigne. As if that wasn’t enough star power, Judith Jones, Florence Fabricant and Alice Waters are contributors and Marion Nestle has written the forward. Required reading.
“The Great Meat Cookbook”, Bruce Aidells, Houghton Mifflin Harcourt, $40
There aren’t many chefs who could get away with an entire chapter on veal. Even fewer who would devote nearly a hundred pages to lamb and goat. But Bruce Aidells is the undisputed heavy-weight champion of animal protein, and his new book is his ring. In exhaustive detail, he discusses everything from how to perfectly sear a cut of bison to the differences between grass-fed, grain-finished and organically-raised meats. A meaty-read for sure.
“Modernist Cuisine at Home”, by Nathan Myhrvold and Maxime Bilet, The Cooking Lab, $140
So you couldn’t justify the $625 for Modernist Cuisine, the five-volume Bible of modern cooking and drool-worthy photos. Using the same cross-sectioned photo techniques and detailed explanations, the home version does for pot roast what Modernist Cuisine did for restaurant menus.
Here’s a list of the Top 25 Books of 2012 (mostly related to food politics) from Cornucopia.org.
1. Turn Here Sweet Corn by Atina Diffley
2. The $64 Tomato by William Alexander
3. The Dirty Life by Kristen Kimball
4. The Omnivore’s Dilemma by Michael Pollan
5. The Hundred-Foot Journey by Richard C. Morais
6. The Everlasting Meal by Tamar Adler
7. Tomatoland by Barry Estabrook
8. The Secret Life of Food by Clare Crespo
9. This Life Is in Your Hands by Melissa Coleman
10. Plenty (Eating Locally on the 100-Mile Diet) by Alisa Smith, J.B. Mackinnon
11. Urban Homesteading-Heirloom Skills for Sustainable Living by Rachel Kaplan with K. Ruby Blume
12. Nourishing Traditions by Sally Fallon and Mary Enig
13. The Unhealthy Truth by Robyn O’Brien and Rachel Kranz
14. Stolen Harvest by Vandana Shiva
15. Wheat Belly by William Davis
16. Slaughterhouse by Gail A. Eisnitz
17. Righteous Porkchop by Nicolette Hahn Niman
18. Folks, This Ain’t Normal by Joel Salatin
19. The Boy Who Harnessed the Wind by William Kamkwamba and Bryan Mealer
20. The Art of Fermentation by Sandor Katz
21. Animal, Vegetable, Miracle by Barbara Kingsolver
22. Teaming with Microbes: A Gardener’s Guide to the Soil Food Web by Jeff Lowenfels and Wayne Lewis
23. Wild Fermentation: The Flavor, Nutrition, and Craft of Live-Culture Foods by Sandor Ellix Katz and Sally Fallon
24. The Viking in The Wheat Field by Susan Dworkin
25. The Phytozyme Cure: Treat or Reverse More Than 30 Serious Health Conditions with Powerful Plant Nutrients by Michelle Cook
There are so many things to give the cook/foodie/hedonist/kitchen-obsessive in your life this holiday season. Like this, this, this or *especially* this.
In honor of the 12 Days of Xmas, here are a few things on our list…
Twelve pounds of Bella Rosa Coffee
Eleven jars of Beekind Honey
Ten packets of Gary and Kit’s Dukkah Spice Blend
Nine recipes from the Ceres Cookbook
Eight trays in my new Excalibur dehydrator
Seven gift certificates to eat out at local restaurants
Six cast iron pans
Five adorable chickens in a hand-built chicken coop!
Four packs of Baker Creek heirloom seeds
Three pounds of locally grown wheat
Two days to cook everything in the Smitten Kitchen Cookbook…
And a FoodSaver 3880 Vacuum Seal Master Chef Kit under my tree.
Meantime, here are just a few of the things we don’t want..
You know the whole DIY food thing as officially jumped the shark when Williams-Sonoma comes out with an artisan butter-making kit. That doesn’t include the cream. For $30. I’d be glad to hand-deliver you a pint of heavy cream and a clue for $15.
– Brooklyn Kombucha kit for $70 you get a fancy glass jar, some sugar and tea (granted, its fair-trade!) and a SCOBY starter. Um, or you could open a bottle of $3.99 kombucha from Whole Foods and make your own. Perhaps it goes without saying that ordering a DIY “kit” kind of defeats the idea of doing-it-yourself?
– Panini Press/Quesadilla Maker: You really need something that takes up this much counter space and costs upwards of $100 to make a grilled cheese sandwich? Hint: Put the sandwich/quesadilla in a skillet, then put another heavy skillet on top. Genius.
– Mixed Cocktail Machine: Fill this $300 digital bartender with neon-colored mixers, a little rum and a perfectly mixed cocktail is just a push-button away. Which sounds nice until you try to tell it your problems and its only response is, “Feeling Lucky?” Frankly, this is much more clever.
– Automatic Cocktail Shaker: When mixing a cocktail just feels like too much work.
Details are slim, but the popular China Room restaurant (500 Mission Blvd., Santa Rosa) has closed — at least temporarily. The restaurant states that it is closed for remodeling until further notice. The restaurant has served Santa Rosa since 1988.
I dropped by the other day to peek on the window, and it appears that most of the furniture is still inside. Whether or not the restaurant will re-open is unclear.
Ho ho ho, who wants to be in the kitchen on Christmas Day? Because after all that elf-ing, you deserve a break. But TV dinners are about as merry as traffic jam and leftovers just won’t cut it when your mother-in-law’s involved.
So, if you’re looking for a spot to indulge in some stress-free, kitchen-free dining, here are some best bets for Sonoma County restaurants that are open on Christmas Day 2012…
Brasserie at the Hyatt Vineyard Creek: Open Christmas Eve and Christmas Day. Dinner specials include seafood chowder, Dungeness crab cakes, turkey pot pie, Maine lobster risotto, prime rib, butternut squash ravioli. Breakfast 6:30 to 11a.m, noon to 7p.m.. 170 Railroad Street Santa Rosa, 636-7388.
Cafe Europe: Open Christmas eve until 9p.m., Christmas day from noon to 6p.m.. Grilled Nuernberger sausage, beer steamed mussels, lobster, filet mignon, baked veal rib chop, lamb loin chops, wild boar ragout, veal schnitzel and more. A la carte menu Dec. 24, three or four course prix fixe ($38-42) on Christmas Day. 104 Calistoga Rd Santa Rosa, 538-5255.
Madrona Manor Inn & Restaurant: Two weeks of Dickens Dinner celebrations culminate on Christmas Day, with seatings at 1:30 and 6:30 p.m. Chef Jesse Mallgren’s holiday menus feature such dishes as seared foie gras with quince compote, lobster-inspired Shepherd’s Pie, Dungeness crab with Green Goddess dressing, beef Wellington and Christmas pudding. The five-course menu is $125 per person (all ages). Dickens carolers entertain throughout the meal. Reservations required, 1001 Westside Rd., Healdsburg, (707)433-4231, madronamanor.com.
Sante at Sonoma Mission Inn: Sante’s Christmas Grand Buffet, a true groaning board, is offered from 2 to 8 p.m. Highlights include charcuterie, salumi, antipasti, artisan cheeses, smoked and cured fish, caviar, salads, sweetbreads with black truffles, glazed ham, Coq au Vin, carving stations of Niman Ranch beef and roasted goose, artichoke raviolis with preserved lemon cream sauce, breads from a wood-fired oven and more than a dozen desserts, including English toffee and chocolate bread pudding and Buche de Noel. Cost is $99 for adults and $49.50 for kids aged 5 to 12; children 4 years old and younger are complimentary. Beverages, tax and gratuity are not included. Reservations recommended, 939-2415. 100 Boyes Blvd., Sonoma. http://www.fairmont.com/sonoma/dining/santerestaurant/
The Lodge at Sonoma/Carneros Bistro and Wine Bar: Christmas dinner includes creamy cauliflower soup, coffee dusted filet of beef, Liberty Farm duck breast, egg nog creme brulee and a chocolate yule log. $55 per person, 2-8p.m.. 1325 Broadway, Sonoma. 707-931-2042.
Saddles Steakhouse: Filet mignon, shrimp bisque, prime rib, chocolate peppermint mousse. $52 per person from 3-7:30p.m., 29 East MacArthur Street, Sonoma, (707) 933-3191.
Pick It Up
Fresh By Lisa Hemenway: Complete Christmas Dinner to go (order in advance) at freshbylisahemenway.com. (Must be ordered in advance)
Christmas Eve
Dry Creek Kitchen: Four course menu includes Hawaiian ahi carpaccio, roasted chestnut soup, Wagu steak with brioche bread pudding, sticky toffee pudding. $57 per person with optional wine flight. Open 5:30 to 9pm., Hotel Healdsburg, 317 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg.
Casual
Fu Zhou Super Buffet, 450 Mendocino Ave., Santa Rosa, open 11am to 8pm
Adel’s Restaurant, 456 College Ave., Santa Rosa, 6am to midnight
Local restaurateur Nino Rabbaa is expanding his empire of restaurants in Sonoma County with news that he’ll be opening two new restaurants in 2013. The biggest, which is still in concept development, will be Flipside Brewhouse in the former Latitude Restaurant location (5000 Roberts Lake Drive) in Rohnert Park. That restaurant closed in 2010 and the large, indoor-outdoor space has been empty since despite several nibbles by local restaurant owners.
Rabbaa will also open Flipside Steakhouse in the former Ritas-turned-Doc Hollidays in Santa Rosa. The karoake bar at 138 Calistoga Road closed in 2011, followed by the short-lived restaurant and bar. Rabbaa says he’ll be doing construction on the space over the next few months and hopes to reopen as a neighborhood restaurant and bar.
Rabbaa’s SoCo Hospitality Group includes Rendez Vous Bistro, Flipside Bar & Burger, Space XXV Lounge (which opened in late October), Chez Vous Catering and Lakeside Grill at Spring Lake.
A new restaurant in Healdsburg that doesn’t have a wood-fired oven? Yes, it’s true. Channeling Mediterranean flavors of another sort, Cafe Lucia, has opened in the former Affronti location on Healdsburg Avenue.
Tucked well back from the street, brother and sister team Manuel and Lucia Azevedo have brought the “Nova Cozinha Portuguesa” or new Portuguese cuisine of Manuel’s highly acclaimed La Salette restaurant in Sonoma to their northern neighbors. Many of the dishes will be familiar to La Salette regulars, including richly-flavored and Portuguese nose-to-tail “tasca” or tasting plates of tripe stew, blood sausage, pig’s feet terrine and sardine pate.
The menu also includes Manuel’s Caldo Verde (Portugal’s national soup of beef consumme) steak with piri piri (a type of chili) fries and Feijoada Complete (stewed beef, pork and beans) as well as simpler “all-access” sandwiches like a crab melt, pulled pork sandwich or BLT for lunch.
Don’t skimp on the homemade rolls, made with a bit of sugar for a slightly sweet, yeasty taste. If you’re new to Portuguese food, its worth some culinary exploration. Go for authentic eats like Caldeirada, a fish stew with shrimp, sea bass, mussels and lobster fume, pan-seared day boat scallops with Japanese sweet potatoes and a traditional dessert of sweet rice, malassadinhas (tiny fried donuts) and almond ice cream with fig cake. With a glass of sweet Port, naturally.
Prices range from around $10 to $25 for entrees, open for lunch and dinner daily.
Cafe Lucia, 235 Healdsburg Ave. at Mill St., 707-431-1113. cafelucia.net
Diane Peterson wrote a lovely stories about Manuel’s cookbooks, the LaSalette Cookbook and the influence of Portuguese cooking in Sonoma County and beyond. It’s great reading.
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Sonoma County Chef Tiffany Friedman is heading to San Francisco for a dinner paying tribute to Jewish Brooklyn on Saturday December 15, 2012.
The menu features half-sour pickles, a mixed plate with golden borscht, smoked sturgeon and latkes, grass-fed brisket with kasha varnishkes gratin and blintzes and egg creams for dessert. $50 per person, seatings at 6:30 and 8pm, 1106 Market St., between Sixth and Seventh. Buy tickets online at Kitchit.
Gypsy Cafe in Sebastopol host a cookie, punch, cider and shopping party from 4 to 7p.m. Saturday, Dec. 15. The cafe will be pouring Apple Sauced Ciders, sourced from local Gravenstein apples. The project is a collaboration between Jolie Devoto and her busband, Hunter Wade, second-generation apple farmers at Sebastopol’s Devoto Gardens. “We’re making New World cider for Californians,” said Devoto. The event happens at 162 N. Main St., Sebastopol.
Two bits of good news for Cork’s Restaurant at Russian River Vineyards. Most importantly, exec chef Todd Davies tells BiteClub that the threat of bankruptcy for Russian Rivers Vineyards has been staid, and “we will be in business for years to come.”
Secondly, Davies has named Dominique Rooney, grand-daughter of actor Mickey Rooney, as Chef de Cuisine. The former model has done local stints at Sugo in Petaluma and with Mark Malicki at Casino in Bodega, as well as a number of restaurant in Los Angeles. She and Davies are updating the menus and throughout December will feature a variety of crab dishes.
5700 Gravenstein Hwy North, Forestville.