Oktoberfests 2013

oktober
Oktoberfest at barley and hops in Occidental

…I’ve never quite understood why so many Oktoberfests are actually in September. Maybe its a German thing. But one we’re especially excited about (which is actually in October) is Woodruff’s Oktoberfest Beer Dinner  (966 Gravenstein Ave., Sebastopol) on Oct. 25. The menu includes housemade soft pretzels with bourbon honey mustard, potato pancakes, a trio of jagwurst, bratwurst and weisswurst with sauerkraut and apple strudel for dessert. Each course is paired with a German beer. $45 per person. Details at (707) 829-2141.

Other Oktoberfests: Windsor Lion’s Club, Sept. 28; Cotati (Oct. 12) includes a Men’s Tankard Hold and women’s beer stein race; and  Barley and Hops Tavern’s sixth annual Oktoberfest on Oct. 11 in Occidental.  In Napa, they’re celebrating on Sept. 21 at the Napa Smith Brewery (1 Executive Way, Napa) from noon to 5pm with a bratwurst eating contest, German polka music and that famous Teutonic tradition, the chicken dance.

What I ate this week

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Fair Fooding: Biteclub and several lucky food judges headed out for some serious eating (and judging) over the last week for the upcoming Sonoma County Harvest Fair (Oct. 4-6). Five restaurants in five days turned up some high-profile contenders to come up with their most impressive appetizers, entrees and desserts. You’ll have to wait until Oct. 4 to find out the winners, but we can say that Catelli’s 10-layer lasagna (21047 Geyserville Ave., Geyserville), John Ash and Co.’s(4330 Barnes Road, Santa Rosa) raspberry cheesecake and Ole’s Seafood from Thai Time (402 Mendocino Ave., Santa Rosa)were among our favorites.

‘Tis the season for ripe, juicy heirloom tomatoes and supple figs. We’re seeing both of these seasonal goodies all over menus around Sonoma County. The next best thing to eating warm cherry tomatoes right off the vine? A good late summer BLT.

BiteClub loved the version at Twist. (6536 Front St., Forestville) with toasted Nightingale Bakery bread, thick slices of heirloom tomatoes, slab bacon, fresh lettuce and mayonnaise. Because sometimes simplicity makes for the best of dishes. We’re also loving all the fig dishes that seem to be cropping up, including prosciutto wrapped figs with arugula and melted blue cheese at Catelli’s and of course, the gold standard, the fig salad at The Girl and The Fig (110 W. Spain St., Sonoma). Got an excess of figs in your yard? We found great recipes online for homemade fig bars, fig clafoutis, fig brandy, honey fried figs and fig crostini. But our favorite? A good sliced fig with a dollop of mascarpone. Heaven.

Culinary Series at WFC

Alton Brown of the Food Network will be at the Wells Fargo Center
Alton Brown of the Food Network will be at the Wells Fargo Center
Alton Brown of the Food Network will be at the Wells Fargo Center
Alton Brown of the Food Network will be at the Wells Fargo Center

Alton Brown, The Barefoot Contessa and Robert Irvine are on the dockets for the Wells Fargo Center’s Culinary Series. Brown heats up the stage on Oct. 25, with Dinner Impossible’s Irvine coming to Sonoma on Jan. 17 and Ina Garten on April 2. Sponsored by Bellwether farms, the shows are sure to be a tasty bet throughout the next few months. Details at wellsfargocenterarts.org.

A la Sheana

If you’re a local cheese fan, you probably know Sonoma’s Sheana Davis, owner of Epicurean Connection and maker of several artisan cheeses. On October 13, friends and supporters will host a benefit at the Maysonnave House (291 First St., Sonoma) in her honor. Tickets are $50 per person and will include a who’s who of the food world with great food, great wine and a silent auction to help offset the costs of several years of medical treatment. You can find out more details about the event at sheanadavisfund.com or send a contribution.

The Essential Scratch and Sniff Guide to Becoming a Wine Expert

The Essential Scratch and Sniff Guide to Becoming a Wine Expert ...
The Essential Scratch and Sniff Guide to Becoming a Wine Expert …
The Essential Scratch and Sniff Guide to Becoming a Wine Expert ...
The Essential Scratch and Sniff Guide to Becoming a Wine Expert …

The variety of cookbooks that land on my desk each week range from brilliant to questionable, often tending toward the latter (a cookbook devoted to sprinkles? Really?). However, from time to time I get something so spectacular I have to share it immediately. “The Essential Scratch and Sniff Guide to Becoming a Wine Expert (Richard Betts, $19.99, Houghton Mifflin Harcourt) harkens back to the scratch and sniff board books of younger days. The premise is “Wine is a grocery, not a luxury,” breaking down wine into its simplest components with bright illustrations, friendly text and scratch and sniff stickers that bring smells like “black fruit”, “leather”, “dirt” and even bacon (smells often found in wine components) to life. It’s makes understanding work child’s play. Although you may want to think twice about using it as a bedtime story. Then again, it’s Wine Country, why not?

National Heirloom Expo 2013

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BiteClub dropped by the National Heirloom Expo on Tuesday at the Sonoma County Fairgrounds and ate through the ever-expanding row of local (and regional) food vendors with gusto. Top pick: We’re dying over Donna’s Tamales, made with smoked cheddar and chiles (available also at Community Market, 1899 Mendocino Ave., Santa Rosa). We were also loving the venison burger from Farmer’s Wife, mini bacon stuffed sliders from Conscious Cooks (Sebastopol caterers, 707-874-9581) and Real Cool ice cream’s Crane Melon and cream popsicles. Check out pictures from the expo, including gourd sculptures, the pumpkin tower, watermelons from around the country and the Internment Camp melon with a puzzling name we couldn’t find out much about

Get Pickled

Fried Pickles at Viola Pastry
Fried Pickles at Viola Pastry
Fried Pickles at Viola Pastry
Fried Pickles at Viola Pastry

Fried pickles have officially become a thing. Seems you can hardly turn around without this Southern-fried specialty showing up on appetizer menus. But BiteClub’s been generally underwhelmed by soggy, limp pickle chips smothered in too much cornmeal batter and fried within an inch of their lives. With ranch sauce from a tub. Whine no more. Viola Pastry Boutique and Cafe (709 Village Court, Montgomery Village, Santa Rosa) takes housemade bread and butter pickles with a hint of sweetness, fries ’em up in a light batter, then serves them with a side of zingy buttermilk sauce. You’re gonna fall in love with this, uh, dillicious side.

Napa News: Press, 2nd & Brown

Press Restaurant (courtesy Press Restaurant)
Press Restaurant (courtesy Press Restaurant)
Press Restaurant (courtesy Press Restaurant)

Napa is bustin out all over. Press Restaurant (587 St. Helena Hwy.) in St. Helena has turned over the stoves to former sous chef Jason Toji with the departure exec chef Stephen Rogers. Rogers and his wife (who was Press GM) are returning to Dallas to open a new restaurant called Gemma.

Opening in late September is 2nd & Brown, the “boozy sister restaurant/bar” to Carpe Diem Wine Bar in downtown Napa. The cocktail spot will feature an abbreviated Carpe Diem menu with faces like the ostrich burger and “Quack and Cheese”, macaroni and cheese with duck confit.

West County News: Guerrillas, new owner for Henweigh, Chef Rooney’s move

Berry Salinas and friends Jason Azevedo and Chris Hanson at the 2011 Handcar Regatta
Berry Salinas and friends Jason Azevedo and Chris Hanson at the 2011 Handcar Regatta
Berry Salinas and friends Jason Azevedo and Chris Hanson at the 2011 Handcar Regatta

There’s a new owner at the former Henweigh Cafe. Butcher Berry Salinas is taking over the 4550 Gravenstein Hwy. location with plans for a “classic roadhouse”, beer and wine bar. Salinas, with partner Sheldon Rosenberg III, had planned a Santa Rosa chicken shack, but plans fell through after several months of work. Don’t worry, though. We’ll bet the farm that her famous fried chicken will show up on the menu. Look for a November opening for Red’s Apple Roadhouse.

Seems there are Guerrillas in the midst. Zinfandel enthusiast and winemaker Bruce Patch has opened the Wine Guerrilla tasting room in Forestville, showcasing estate-grown wines from around the region. The winery (6671 Front Street, Forestville) will feature box lunches from nearby Twist (6536 Front St., Forestville), a popular weekday lunch counter and weekend dinner cafe.

 

Nearby Corks (5700 California, Forestville) has had another chef shuffle with the departure of Chef Dominque Rooney. She’s moved into an exec chef position at Bodega Bays’ Sandpiper Restaurant(1400 N. Highway 1, Bodega Bay). Rooney is also appearing on Sept. 8 on the Food Network’s Cutthroat Kitchen, putting her in good company with the other local chefs who’ve gained national TV attention for their kitchen skills.

 

Winery taking over old Zazu space

The former Zazu roadhouse photo Charlie Gesell
The former Zazu roadhouse photo Charlie Gesell
The former Zazu roadhouse photo Charlie Gesell

The quirky Santa Rosa roadhouse recently vacated by Zazu’s Restaurant owners Duskie Estes and John Stewart is already under serious rehab by nearby Walter Hansel Winery with plans for a full-service bistro.

Slated to open in October, the Walter Hansel Wine Bistro will be a casual eatery that mixes “fine dining and fun”, according to winery owner Stephen Hansel. Hansel’s in the midst of interviewing for kitchen staff, so no word on a chef yet, but food won’t play second fiddle to the wines. “The French have it right. They understand that food and wine really need to go together,” said Hansel. “Food is the main course, and wine the accessory,” he said.

The restaurant will feature Hansel’s Russian River wines along with those of nearby wineries, in addition to California and a few French Bordeaux. So why would a car dealer-turned winery owner want to open a restaurant? The lack of a tasting room at the winery, his desire to work directly with customers and, well, the restaurant is practically within throwing distance.

“It’s a mile away from us,” he said. “Otherwise, I wouldn’t have been nearly so interested.”