Barn Again

Sonoma County is dotted with barns that range from the unfixable to simply sublime.This barn in Windsor is used to store hay. (photo by Kent Porter)

“You have to be able to look back in time,” says Kirk Andrade, known to many as the Barn Doctor.

Standing in a dark redwood barn in west Petaluma, surrounded by dusty vintage cars and mounted deer antlers, he stops talking and listens.

Swallows fly in and out an open window. Sunlight shines through slits that have widened over time. Winds gust and the barn resists with a gentle creak and sigh.

“They definitely talk to you. They have conversations with you,” says Andrade, who has spent nearly half his life restoring old barns. “They are growing pains, and it’s almost like setting a bone. You’ve gotta work it into place to line it all up again. And as you’re doing it, as it’s bending its own nails and boards are cracking, it’s fighting to stand up again.”

All across Sonoma County, old barns — some dating back over a century — are stooping and sagging like old men as they bow and return to the earth. Once a first refuge against the elements, barns offered shelter from wind and rain, dry storage for hay and a roof overhead for cows. A rural cathedral that symbolized farm life, the barn was often the first structure framed against the land, a place where the farmer would live with his family among the farm animals while the first house was being built.

Now, on many farms, they’re barely more than a pile of kindling.

But in recent years, a select few have been tapped for restoration and revival.

“Once they’re gone, they’re gone,” says Andrade. “So if you can save them, you better do it while you can. Because at some point, it’s too late.”

During the past decade, barns have increasingly doubled as wedding destinations for couples lured by their romantic rustic nature. But that’s only one idea employed by creative new barn owners who convert their old-growth timber piles into textile showrooms, guest living quarters, entertainment spaces and even yoga studios. The farmers who originally built them with their own hands might scratch their heads today, but just as the barns were once the center of communal life 100 years ago, they’re being reborn as gathering places that bring people together, much like the barn raisings and barn dances of lore.

Here’s a look at a few local barns reinvented in ways their original builders might never have imagined:

Sandra Jordan converted a large barn on her Windsor property in to an art gallery and reception venue for the Santa Rosa Symphony among others. (Kent Porter / Press Democrat) 2013
Sandra Jordan converted a large barn on her Windsor property in to an art gallery and reception venue for the Santa Rosa Symphony among others. (photo by Kent Porter)

– Sandra Jordan’s Prune Ranch Barns
When the Healdsburg designer bought her Eastside Road estate more than two decades ago, the fire department wanted to use the half-dozen old barns on the property as “target practice for practicing taking old buildings down.” But Jordan wouldn’t allow it.

The former creative director at Jordan Vineyard & Winery, who reinvented herself as founder of the boutique textile and design business Sandra Jordan Collection and Sandra Jordan Prima Alpaca, needed all the extra space she could find.

So she decided to restore the six dilapidated barns that were originally part of a prune orchard.
“You see the bones and then you say, ‘I want to make it better,’ ” she says. “The building will tell you what to do. You just have to stare at it long enough.”

With an eye on preserving rural Sonoma heritage, she recrafted each barn as uniquely her own, pulling from her Peruvian roots. You can see it in the cast-iron Peruvian coat of arms, featuring alpaca and quinoa symbols, and in the Lima street lights in the foyer of a barn.

The main office was converted from an auto-body garage barn. A former chicken coop and later pig sty now serves as guest living quarters, known simply as “Hog Heaven.” On a hillside, the former horse stable has been recast as a photo studio, professional kitchen and barrel room for the syrupy balsamic vinegar she ages on the property.

But the piece de resistance is her showroom barn, housing a massive art gallery and music room, where she’s hosted Santa Rosa Symphony benefit concerts. It’s a towering two-story haven for reclaimed treasures she’s collected over the years. Inset in the walls are French wooden grape-picking baskets the size of conga drums. Jordan found a massive collection of deer antlers in North Dakota. Riddling racks were rescued from Domaine Chandon winery. And, of course, the walls are upholstered in soft baby alpaca wool.

“You can’t buy this, you can’t make it from scratch,” she says, standing in the entrance to the barn. “You can’t create this kind of charm.”

Having been saved from demolition at the site of the new Sutter Hospital on Mark West Springs Road, the white barn was reconstructed on the site of Tierra Vegetables in Santa Rosa
Having been saved from demolition at the site of the new Sutter Hospital on Mark West Springs Road, the white barn was reconstructed on the site of Tierra Vegetables in Santa Rosa. (photo by Kent Porter)

– The White Barn at Tierra Vegetables

In 2009, when Sutter Medical Center began building a new hospital along Highway 101 near the Wells Fargo Center, construction workers ran across an old barn that had been used most recently as a workshop at the neighboring concert hall. Instead of razing it, they donated it to Tierra Vegetables farm.

But that was just the beginning of the journey, as Tierra Vegetables co-owners Wayne James and Evie Truxaw raised $45,000 in donations and $25,000 in loans to carefully deconstruct the barn and reassemble it on a new foundation at their farm on Airport Boulevard in north Santa Rosa.

“Under the raised floor, we found a beam where someone had carved ‘1924’ into it, so we think that’s the year it was built,” says Truxaw.

She’s standing upstairs, surrounded by shelves of drying red onions. The second floor is where they store vegetables such as garlic, onions and winter squash. And the downstairs has been reworked as the Tierra Vegetables farmstand, complete with an old painting of Luther Burbank they found hanging in the barn.

“It’s been a huge labor of love,” says James. “But I’m glad it’s still part of the local community. It feels like it should be here.”

Yoga classes replace hay bales in the upper floor fo the restored barn on Mela Angelman’s family farm in Bodega. (photo by Kent Porter)

Angelman remembers as a kid playing hide-and-seek with her grandfather on the upper floor of her family’s nearly 3,000-square-foot barn.

Decades later, she would inherit the ranch her family settled in 1853 near the town of Bodega.
But by 2007, the crumbling old-growth redwood barn “had become hard to look at anymore,” she says.

After several contractors recommended she knock it down and build a new one, she hired Andrade to save the barn.

Marveling at his work nearly five years later, Andrade says, “Fortunately the skeleton was still intact. It was just a matter of getting all the lines straight again and pulling it back into shape.”
Today, while her son, Che, raises goats below, making cheese from their milk, Angelman uses the second floor as a yoga studio where students meet every Sunday. A wooden portrait of Buddha looks out from the back wall, framed by beams strung with Christmas lights. In the winter, the soothing sounds of nearby Vina Creek (named after her mother) filter through the barn slats.

“It’s really a sanctuary,” she says, standing not far from one of the corners where she once hid from her grandfather behind hay bales. “It’s like you’re outside even though you’re inside. It’s a part of the surrounding nature and envelops you in the same way.”

kp0809_Red_side
Kirk Andrade enters a chicken coop whose red paint reflects the rundown interior. (photo by Kent Porter)

Busy restoring other people’s barns, Andrade spent five years restoring the chicken barn and horse stable where he once played as a child on the west Petaluma farm his grandfather settled in the 1940s.

“People see barns like this every day and they take them for granted,” he says. “It’s our heritage, our agrarian roots.”

It may be hard to tell from the weathered exterior of the long, narrow ramshackle barn, but inside Andrade has created an intimate, creative studio space reworked from items he’s salvaged from throughout the Bay Area.

A 10-foot farm table is made of Douglas fir he scavenged from a Water Street warehouse near the Petaluma River. An island counter was formerly the ticket counter at the Petaluma rail station. A pew came from a Marysville church. A few girders once held up a barn in Novato. A few panels of stained glass were rescued from an 1880s Petaluma house. And the stove that heats the space is a converted sandblasting pot his father rescued after working on the Golden Gate Bridge as superintendent of the machine shop.

In restoring his old family barn, Andrade took the same approach as when he’s working on other farms as the Barn Doctor.

“I can read how the years and gravity have taken effect over 70 to 80 years. It’s up to me to reverse that in a much shorter time span,” he says. “Usually, they’ve already had people tell them it can’t be saved and I’m their last resort.”

Bay Area freelancer John Beck writes about entertainment for The Press Democrat. You can reach him at 280-8014, john@sideshowvideo.com and follow him on Twitter @becksay.

Family ties

The Benzigers, wine makers from Glen Ellen, enjoying a holiday meal. (photo by Chris Hardy)

Despite broad American traditions, no two households celebrate the winter holidays alike. Yet invariably, the table is the heartbeat of family gatherings, from the recipes passed down from generation to generation, to the comfortable conversation and camaraderie among people bound by their shared history.

Two multigenerational Sonoma County farming families share the touchstones of their gatherings — the boisterous, deep-rooted Benziger winemaking clan of Glen Ellen, and the revitalized Hopkins family, where a new generation helps grow grapes and food crops, and raise heirloom poultry, sheep and goats, off Eastside Road in Healdsburg, on land that has been in the family for 60 years.

The Benzigers

“I want to give a toast to my best helper in the vineyard, Bob Benziger,” says Mike Benziger, general manager of Benziger Family Winery, at a fall meal in the winery cave.

Family gatherings with the Benzigers are epic. It doesn’t matter the occasion: holidays, weddings, graduations, meet-ups at the Tuesday Night Market in Sonoma and the mandatory family dinners they hold every six weeks, with every family taking a turn at hosting. Benzigers celebrate hard, with high energy, affectionate ribbing and unrestrained sentiment.

“We work hard at staying together as a family and a family business,” says Kathy Benziger Threlkeld, at 48 the youngest of seven siblings, the original brood spawned by Bruno and Helen Benziger. “Ninety percent of family businesses fail in the third generation, so we work on it.”

And a major part of the effort is breaking bread together.

“My mother Helen, god bless her, it was all around the table,” says Threlkeld, who is the keeper of all of the matriarch’s pots and pans and Pyrex dishware, as well as the near-sacred recipes with which she was capable of feeding an army, not only of family but also winery workers, five days a week. “She was the heart and soul that kept us together. And it was always through the community of food.”

Helen was known as the CEO, or Chief Emotional Officer. When she died in 2000, 11 years after her husband, the family found itself drifting apart. So they redoubled their efforts to stay close.

Holiday and special-occasion meals among this Swiss-German, Catholic clan invariably include grace and toasts that invoke the spirits of Bruno and Helen and other family members who have died.

“And there are cheers. There’s always three cheers for Bruno,” says Threlkeld. “Three cheers for Bruno! Hip, hip, hooray! Hip, hip, hooray! Hip, hip, hooray!”

In-laws are welcomed into the fold. Meals at Mike’s house – he hosts the traditional family Christmas Eve bash every year – are particularly popular since his son-in-law, chef Ari Weiswasser, who runs the Glen Ellen Star restaurant, is apt to contribute to the menu.

Weiswasser married Mike’s daughter, Erinn, and the young couple now have a 2-year-old, Noa, and 7-month-old twins, Hayley and Riley. That makes for lively interaction at the table.

Mike shows granddaughter Noa how to toast. When she nearly knocks over a wine glass, he deftly switches to fist-bumps. Meanwhile, Ari scoops up one of the twins and plants a kiss on her cheek before being called upon to carve the bird.

After toasting, the family members join in with the signature cheer, then Mike exhorts everyone to “dig in.”

There’s always lot of laughter and talking, as the family passes the roasted vegetables, the bread board and the cheeses, making sure everyone’s plate is full.

Although the winery’s extensive organic and Biodynamic gardens speak to the Benzigers’ evolving definition of good food, some traditions are sacred. Like Mom’s potatoes and gravy.

Kathy is the designated gravy maker. “It’s ingrained in me because I helped her at the stove. I can make Mom’s gravy to perfection. You should see my brothers salivate.”

“If there’s anything that is an anchor in the Benzigers’ Thanksgiving diet, it’s mashed potatoes, center stage,” says Mike, who with his wife, Mary, first discovered the Glen Ellen vineyard in the late 1970s and brought his parents and the rest of the Benzigers to California from White Plains, N.Y.

At 63, he is now the new patriarch of a clan that includes his six siblings, their spouses, 16 grandchildren (some with spouses) and four great-grandchildren.

With 26 Benzigers living within 15 miles of each other – 11 of those working full-time at one of the wineries — the Benzigers don’t have to go very far to stay connected.

Clustered around Glen Ellen is not only Benziger Family Winery on Sonoma Mountain, but also Imagery Estate on Sonoma Highway in Glen Ellen, where Mike’s brother, Joe, is the winemaker and general partner. Third-generation Michael is a partner in Envolve Winery in Sonoma. Four others in the third wave also work at the family winery.

“Family gatherings are loads of fun,” says Joe. “We have a lot of personalities, when you include our wives and kids, who are now in their 20s and 30s.”

For those who have married into the family, it often takes perseverance to be heard above the fray.

“You have to be very loud and determined,” Ari says. “It’s like driving a car onto I-95 (in New York). You have to be very persistent.”

Those who want to join the fun-loving Benziger clan are always asked to prove their athletic ability after a dinner and many glasses of wine.

“We had to do a table walk, blindfolded,” says Ari. “I broke a lot of glasses.”

The every-six-weeks clan dinner is mandatory.

“You have to have a family relationship with your siblings, not just business,” Kathy explains. “With Mom, it was always about connecting through eating and being together. We make sure we keep that going.”

Holiday meals on a farm in SonomaHoliday meals on a farm in Sonoma with the Hopkins' Lynda and Emmett and their baby Gillian. They are eating with Emmett's parents Toni and Bob.
Holiday meals on a farm in SonomaHoliday meals on a farm in Sonoma with the Hopkins’ Lynda and Emmett and their baby Gillian. They are eating with Emmett’s parents Toni and Bob. (photo by Chris Hardy)

The Hopkins

The chickens cluck noisily for attention as Lynda and Emmett Hopkins shop their Foggy River Farm for a family feast.

Eggs nature-dyed in green and brown are gathered from the mobile coop and placed in a basket, along with salad greens, sorrel and late tomatoes.

Emmett scales a ladder and tosses down Golden Delicious apples that Lynda unfailingly catches like an expert fielder. Baby Gillian, who turns 1 just before Thanksgiving, observes from a backpack while happily smearing a cherry tomato into her mouth.

This is a familiar routine for the young couple who, fresh from Stanford University, returned to Emmett’s family land in the fertile Russian River Valley five years ago and taught themselves to farm from the ground up.

Up on the hilltop overlooking the land he shares with his son, grapegrower Bob Hopkins is also gathering for the feast – a pinch of tarragon, the last of the basil – from a kitchen garden where the sunflowers are just starting to drop their heads. The site of the tomato vines reminds him of an old poem, which he wistfully recites before heading inside to put finishing touches on a meal made from scratch.

“We really do eat and drink what we grow. It’s really fun because we’ll have some meals where everything but the pasta is from the property,” says Lynda, a suburban girl turned self-described “milkmaid” and “henpecked vegetable farmer,” who a week before giving birth to Gillian helped harvest 22 heirloom turkeys for Foggy River’s CSA holders.

On Thanksgiving, which draws to Foggy River a gaggle of up to 25 aunts, uncles, cousins and strays from all branches of the family, even the table will be decked with the farm’s bounty. One annual tradition is to go down to the vineyard to gather gold and orange leaves for the table.

Bob Hopkins and his wife, Toni, took over the land from his widowed mother after he finished college in the early 1970s. They slowly replaced prune and pear orchards with premium grapes. Invariably, family meals are accompanied by wine made from his grapes, which are sold to La Crema, J Vineyards & Winery and Hartford Family Winery.

On this night the family — Bob and Toni’s daughter, Whitney, works for the American Red Cross in Washington, D.C. — gathers on the deck outside the modest home Bob’s mother built in 1970. On the rare warm Thanksgiving, they might even dine here at the redwood picnic table, looking out at the blazing vineyards and a farm road lined with Lombardy poplars turned bright as bullion by late autumn.

Everyone contributes to meals, whether small get-togethers or holiday feasts. Bob, who got interested in cooking in college, has his specialties: succotash, corn pudding, roasted beets, and kale salad with cranberries and slivered almonds. Toni makes a killer apple cake. His sister, Susan Coolidge, of Petaluma, brings her signature Brussels sprouts with chestnuts, plus cranberry pie.

Most of the Hopkins’ family heirlooms perished in a house fire more than 40 years ago. But among the surviving touchstones are a set of silver napkin rings, each with a different design. Every guest selects his or her own.

“Thanksgiving is my favorite holiday,” says Emmett, “because it’s focused around family and food rather than a bunch of manufactured traditions.”

One immutable custom on feast day is a midday walk after the turkey.

“Either we’ll walk downhill or around in the hills and then come back and have dessert,” says Toni. “So everybody brings their walking shoes.”

Lynda loves the ritual of feasting from the fruits of their land and own labor, right down to the bird, which the Hopkins have been doing for 60 years, starting with Emmett’s grandparents in the 1950s.

“When you grow everything you eat, almost every meal is a bit like Thanksgiving because of all the work that goes into it,” she says over a plate of heirloom Bodega Red potatoes, carrot salad, beets and chicken, all from Foggy River Farm. “There’s something very special about sitting down and saying thank you for this food and thank you for everybody around the table. In a way, I wish we did it at every meal.”

Reasons to rejoice

Bill Kortum feels fortunate to have a beautiful coastline to enjoy. Kortum has a trail named after him that begins at the mouth of the Russian River and ends at Wright’s Beach in Bodega Bay. (Christopher Chung)

If we get it right, the winter holidays can be filled with expressions of gratitude.

Why do we celebrate? Just what are we celebrating? Whether it’s the mundane, the momentous or the mystical, the reason seems always to lie rooted in this truth: It’s a time to acknowledge that for which we are grateful.

Environmentalist Bill Kortum says he’s especially grateful for the coast because of its sheer beauty.

“We’re so fortunate to have a coastline,” Kortum says, with his wry sense of humor. “If you were in a county in Iowa, you would go to the county line and just find another cornfield.”

Kortum, 86, is founder of the group called COAAST – Californians Organized to Acquire Access to State Tidelands – and has spent years fighting to ensure the coast be open to all. As thanks for his tireless efforts, he has a trail named after him, a three-mile path that begins in Jenner at the mouth of the Russian River and ends at Wright’s Beach in Bodega Bay.

“When I meet people they often say, ‘Oh, I thought you were dead. You have a trail named after you,’” Kortum jokes.

The retired veterinarian, who lives on a 22-acre cattle ranch near Petaluma, hopes people appreciate the wildness of the coast and all it offers, particularly during the holidays.

“You can go out to the coast and dive for abalone,” he says. “You can go whale watching or go to Salt Point to pick mushrooms. Or you can go for a hike, a great pastime for a gathering of people.”

David Goodman, executive director of the Redwood Empire Food Bank, works hard to ensure that people in need have enough food for their holiday feasts. (Christopher Chung/ The Press Democrat)
David Goodman, executive director of the Redwood Empire Food Bank, works hard to ensure that people in need have enough food for their holiday feasts. (photo by Christopher Chung)

David Goodman calls himself a “food banker.”

The executive director of the Redwood Empire Food Bank works hard to make sure needy people have ample food for their holiday feasts.

“What is incredibly gratifying for me during the holidays is that everyone can share in the joy of the season,” he says.

“The holidays are centered around food to celebrate and connect, and our ability to help people experience that makes it very poignant this time of year. If they don’t have sufficient food reserves, they can’t celebrate.”

Kathleen Weber, co-owner of Della Fattoria in Petaluma, enjoys the welcoming aspect of the holidays spent with family and friends. (Christopher Chung/ The Press Democrat)
Kathleen Weber, co-owner of Della Fattoria in Petaluma, enjoys the welcoming aspect of the holidays spent with family and friends. (photo by Christopher Chung)

Kathleen Weber, co-owner of Petaluma’s Della Fattoria bakery and cafe, says she’s most grateful for the welcoming aspect of the holidays.

“I think what the holidays really mean is that you take your core family and invite others to be a part of it,” she says. “It’s the essence of life. The Italians really have it right when it comes down to food and family. That’s just part of their culture. You’re always welcome in an Italian home.”

Kindness, Weber says, has a synergistic magic of its own.

“The more graciousness and the more generosity you extend, it seems to come back in the form of relationships and connections,” she adds. “The holidays are a perfect time to restore all of those.”

While the holidays can be busy with special orders and stressful for the bakery, Weber says it’s still a very uplifting time.

“We see families come in with their kids from college, and their grandchildren,” she says. “There’s a huge family component and it brings a lot of joy.”

You take the high road

Bill Tonkin walks along Santa Rosa Creek in Hood Mountain Regional Park, near Santa Rosa on Tuesday, October 1, 2013. (Christopher Chung/ The Press Democrat)
Bill Tonkin walks along Santa Rosa Creek in Hood Mountain Regional Park. (photo by Christopher Chung)

The season can lend itself to cozily overindulging in gluttonous gatherings, and forgetting to get outside to stretch the legs in pursuit of sound mind and body. Don’t let that happen. It’s a lovely season to be out in Northern California’s profound nature, the air crisp, the leaves still changing color, the streams and creeks just beginning to course with water.

Within just a short drive or bike ride in any direction, there is a place to take it all in. So gather up the holiday guests and reluctant family members to join in the fun and fresh air. Here are our suggestions for some of the best off-the-beaten-track trails for hikers of all skill levels.

EASY

There are plenty of good choices for an easy hike in the area, including the interesting Laguna de Santa Rosa trail between Santa Rosa and Sebastopol and the popular Armstrong Redwoods State Natural Reserve in Guerneville.

But for something a little different, a post-holiday-feast adventure, how about a trip to the Napa-Sonoma Salt Marsh?

Never heard of it? Don’t feel bad because you’re not alone.

Although it’s open to the public, the little-known Salt Marsh isn’t a park; it’s a nature preserve owned by the state Department of Fish and Wildlife (DFW). It lies east of Sonoma along the Napa County line at the edge of San Pablo Bay.

What once were sprawling tidal marshes were divided and surrounded with levees by farmers in the 1850s, and the resulting ponds were later used to produce salt. That long-discontinued salt production left a toxic residue that has taken decades and millions of dollars for federal and state agencies to clean up.

The ongoing work is nearly complete, leaving 10,000 acres of tidal marsh and seawater ponds teeming with birds, fish and other coastal wildlife.

“It’s just a great place to go out and experience wildlife,” says Larry Wyckoff, senior environmental scientist for DFW. “You can go out for a nice walk, bird watch, do photography.”

Janet Tonkin walks along Santa Rosa Creek in Hood Mountain Regional Park, near Santa Rosa on Tuesday, October 1, 2013. (Christopher Chung/ The Press Democrat)
Janet Tonkin walks along Santa Rosa Creek in Hood Mountain Regional Park, near Santa Rosa. (photo by Christopher Chung)

A couple of things to remember as you stroll along the broad, flat levees: no dogs, even on leashes. And hunting is allowed by permit, so don’t be alarmed by the sound of gunfire or the sight of parties of armed hunters, particularly during the fall duck season.

Also, even though the land is open to the public, parking areas aren’t always well-marked. The easiest to access is on the Napa County side, just past Bouchaine Vineyards, at 1075 Buchli Station Road. Drive past the barn and take a right on the dirt road past the vineyard; follow it to the railroad crossing and park at the DFW offices.

And best of all, when the walk is over, there are many great wineries dotting the rolling Carneros hills to visit.

MEDIUM

To experience the full range of mountain environments in the North Bay, and do it on a relatively short hike, head over the mountain to Bothe-Napa Valley State Park on Highway 29, midway between Calistoga and St. Helena.

The park features more than 10 miles of trails, including the easy Petrified Forest Loop. The centerpiece is the Ritchey Canyon Trail, which reaches nearly four miles up the narrow canyon, winding along a stream. Along the trail are several scenic spurs, including the Redwood Trail and the South Fork Trail, each about a mile long.

Taken together, the trail and its spurs represent all the lovely environments common to the Mayacamas Mountains, including forests of oak and madrone, evergreens and majestic stands of redwoods.

The trail starts fairly gently but gets progressively steeper and more challenging as you climb. But there is much to see and the scenery is constantly changing, so it will be worthwhile no matter how far you make it up the mountain. Do try to at least make it to the Redwood Trail, to experience the amazing stillness that exists at the heart of a circle of redwoods.

Middle school teacher Todd Mills enjoys the park frequently and has taken students from St. Helena there as part of an after-school hiking club. The park has a nice mix of rugged spots and some gentler spots, he said, where the less-athletically-inclined “can just kind of stroll along and enjoy nature.”

Once the hike is done, be sure to visit the surprisingly fascinating Bale Grist Mill next door, the last fully water-powered mill in the West. The 1846 mill grinds fresh wheat and corn on weekends, and the flours are available every day at the gift shop.

Bill and Janet Tonkin hike along the Hood Mountain Trail in Hood Mountain Regional Park, near Santa Rosa on Tuesday, October 1, 2013. (Christopher Chung/ The Press Democrat)
Bill and Janet Tonkin hike along the Hood Mountain Trail in Hood Mountain Regional Park. (photo by Christopher Chung)

DIFFICULT

There are plenty of challenging hikes in the region, but a little-known gem among them is actually hiding in plain view of Santa Rosa, in the form of 2,700-foot Hood Mountain.

There are a variety of ways to access the peak from Highway 12 on the eastern edge of Santa Rosa, including a trail from Pythian Road, but Sonoma County Regional Parks Director Caryl Hart, herself an avid hiker, recommends starting from the newly repaired parking lot on Los Alamos Road, heavily damaged by a 2005 flood.

There are a variety of trails through the park, but the Hood Mountain Trail, which leads to the rocky peak, takes about four hours. It starts gradually, winding up through an oak forest, transitioning to a meadow, and then a forest of fir trees, becoming ever steeper and challenging until it opens onto the rocky crown, giving unparalleled views in all directions.

Fall and winter are the perfect times to visit, Hart says, because in the rainy season, wild creeks spring to life all over the park, a rare sight in the otherwise well-settled Santa Rosa area.

Because it is mostly undisturbed wilderness, hikers should come prepared, particularly if they’re considering making it all the way to the peak: bring water and food, and wear sturdy shoes and appropriate outdoor clothing in layers. Unlike in state parks, dogs are permitted in the Hood Mountain park, although they must be leashed.

There is no fee to enter the park, but the parking lots cost $7 per vehicle, or $1 per person for vans and other vehicles carrying 10 or more people. The new north parking lot is at 3000 Los Alamos Road, Santa Rosa; the south lot is at 1450 Pythian Road, Santa Rosa.

Make Mine a Manhattan

Bartender Neil Espinosa pours a Manhattan as one of Stark's Steakhouse's winter cocktails in Santa Rosa on Wednesday, October 2, 2013. (Conner Jay/The Press Democrat)
Bartender Neil Espinosa pours a Manhattan as one of Stark’s Steakhouse’s winter cocktails in Santa Rosa on Wednesday, October 2, 2013. (photo by Conner Jay)

Once upon a time, everyone loved rye whiskey. Prohibition put a temporary killjoy’s hold on that, introducing those willing to sneak a drink anyway to switch to bourbon – illicitly strong, irresistibly sweet, easier to find.

Rye whiskey is made from at least 51 percent rye, a hardy cereal grain, and may contain wheat and barley – though many producers opt for 100 percent rye.

Spicier than bourbon and with an herbal undertone, rye also packs a pronounced taste of oak, often charred, which lends a more savory, slightly bitter edge to the cocktails it frequents. Its traditional habitat is of course in the Manhattan, described in turn-of-the-century cocktail books as a mix of rye, sweet vermouth and bitters, with a maraschino cherry dropped in for punctuation. It’s a drink that has a kind of Art Deco elegance, a Nick-and-Nora flair, a cozy holiday signature.

Here’s where to enjoy one this winter:

Alexander Valley Bar, Healdsburg

Run by the folks at Medlock Ames winery, this bar was an Alexander Valley institution for many decades before being bought and gussied up a few years ago to highlight drinks from the garden as much as from the well. Guest bartenders are often behind the counter and live music is on hand, while the occasional food truck is parked outside to satisfy the hungry. In winter, the darkness of the walnut, oak and redwood surrounding the bar make it very cozy.
707-431-1904
medlockames.com

Empire, Napa

New to the downtown Napa late-night scene is Empire, open until 2 a.m. on the weekends, where pre-Prohibition traditionalism meets Wine Country dynamism, and the drinks are mighty good. Small plates are made to accompany the cocktails, ranging from snacks to meatballs and such, all meant to go down easy with the nostalgic concoctions. This is a good place to see how a Manhattan was meant to be made.
707-254-8888
empirenapa.com

Fagiani’s Bar at The Thomas, Napa
Open until 1 a.m. on Fridays and Saturdays, Fagiani’s in downtown Napa is another cocktail purist’s dream, where bitters are made in-house and cocktails are inspired by tradition and Wine Country seasonality. In addition to a classic Manhattan, consider the bar’s take on the Sazerac, made with rye blended with brandy, Peychaud’s bitters, St. George absinthe and chamomile syrup.
707-226-7821
thethomas-napa.com

Murphy’s Irish Pub, Sonoma
Like your bar nights to be lively, with live music and maybe even trivia? Murphy’s is the place, off the main square in Sonoma, a classic stop for Irish Coffee, Bloody Marys and the like. It’s perhaps less well-known as the home of the Sonoma Manhattan, a mix of Sonoma-based producer Hooker’s House Rye, sweet vermouth and Angostura bitters.
707-935-0660
sonomapub.com

Stark’s Steakhouse, Santa Rosa
Blame it on the wealth of leather and red meat, but Stark’s is such a cozy, manly place it screams Manhattans and Martinis in wintertime. Happy hour, Monday through Saturday from 3 p.m. to 6 p.m., entices regular visits, as do the small-bite offerings of oysters, mini burgers and truffle fries, which are as indulgent as the rye, bourbon and gin.
707-546-5100
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Dungeness Days

Dave Legro, a fishmonger and fisherman who sells at several local farmers market and has the Bumblebee fishing vessel docked in Bodega Bay
Dave Legro, a fishmonger and fisherman who sells at several local farmers market and has the Bumblebee fishing vessel docked in Bodega Bay (photo by Chris Hardy)

Among the harbingers of winter – the glimmering lights and garlanded trees, the glow of candlelight and the smoky warmth of a fire – is the cool briny sweetness of Dungeness crab, a West Coast indulgence as essential to the holiday season as the tickle of sparkling wine. 

Commercial crab season usually opens in mid-November. Stormy weather can stall kick-off, but a more common delay comes when wholesalers and crabbers can’t agree on the dock price; a difference of as little as 10 cents per pound can keep crab off the Thanksgiving table. It’s a time of year when crab lovers hold their collective breath.

This year could be tricky, experts say, as it is the bottom of the crab’s natural five- to seven-year reproductive cycle and there simply won’t be a lot of them to catch.

Yet no matter what phase the crabs are in, as opening day approaches, Bodega Bay is abuzz with activity. At night it comes alive, with illuminated trollers rocking gently on the water as pots are repaired and stacked, and all the tools of the rugged trade put in place.

Crab pots can be baited and lowered 18 hours before the official opening of the season, so boats make their first journey from the Port of Bodega the day before, sometime before dawn, when the seas are calmest. They head out past the rocky shallows into the open ocean to their captains’ favorite drop spots. Soon, it is the most exciting and telling moment of the year, the first pull, when the season’s abundance or lack of it is revealed.

Fred Stewart, of Woodland cleans crabs he caught in Bodega Bay while camping at the Doran Beach campground. Stewart and his family have been camping and crab fishing the past 34 Thanksgiving weekends.
Fred Stewart, of Woodland cleans crabs he caught in Bodega Bay while camping at the Doran Beach campground. Stewart and his family have been camping and crab fishing the past 34 Thanksgiving weekends. (photo by Chris Hardy)

“The first pull is almost always the best,” says Dave Legro of the fishing vessel Bumblebee. “This year, there will probably be two good pulls, with 20 to 25 crabs per pot in the first and maybe 18 in the second. After that, it will plummet. It’s a down year.”

Legro, a former detective sergeant with the Sonoma County Sheriff’s Department who retired in 2004, has been fishing commercially since 2002. He is the face of both wild Pacific King salmon and Dungeness crab at local farmers markets, and is the go-to guy for special seafood orders and the real skinny on what is happening in our own harbor and throughout the Bay Area’s fisheries. Retired or not, his detective skills are finely honed.

He will happily explain the grades of crab – “cripples” are small, with missing legs and claws; “select” are mixed sizes; “premium” are bigger and more evenly sized. Most retailers don’t post grade. He will tell you who is and isn’t taking out their boats, and offer tips on how to catch crab without a boat. Head to the pier at Dillon Beach, he says, with a baited snare box. You can take 10 crabs a day; all that’s needed is a valid California sport-fishing license.

Although Legro recently sold his crab license – his operation, with just 150 pots, was too small to be financially viable; you need at least 350 to 500 pots to earn a living – he remains one of the best sources for the freshest crab. He buys from fellow fishers, right off the boat.

Many other popular direct-to-consumer sources have vanished. Legendary “Crabby George” no longer sells from the back of a truck on Eastshore Road. No one sells retail off their boats anymore, thanks to the cost of liability insurance and the thefts that were a result of the unlocked dock gates.

Still, our Dungeness crab industry thrives. According to Paul Johnson of Berkeley’s Monterey Fish Market and author of “Fish Forever” (Wiley & Sons, 2007), the Pacific Coast Dungeness crab fishery is the most sustainable fishery in the world. Only males are taken; environmentally friendly crab pots have escape rings that allow undersized crabs to exit easily, and size is carefully monitored.

“Crabbers must check size,” Legro emphasizes, “because (the state Department of) Fish and Wildlife never gives anyone a break. Ever. And they check.”

Commercially caught crab must have hard shells that measure a minimum of 6 1/4 inches across; sport-caught crab must measure at least 5 3/4 inches.

The Relentless leaves the Spud Point Marina to set their pots on Monday morning, November 28, 2011 after reaching a price of $2.25 per pound and ending the 13-day delay of the season.
The Relentless leaves the Spud Point Marina to set their pots on Monday morning, November 28, 2011 after reaching a price of $2.25 per pound and ending the 13-day delay of the season. (photo by Chris Hardy)

Even in a down year, it is entirely possible to savor local Dungeness crab. Just don’t wait. There should be plenty for Thanksgiving and probably enough for Christmas and New Year’s Eve, too. By the new year, there may be crab from more northern fisheries, but likely not from home.

Bringing Home the Crab

For crab direct from Bodega Bay, head to Spud Point Crab Co., where Tony Anello and Rich Franceschi sell it live from a little shack in front of the cafe. Inside, Tony’s wife, Carol, sells cooked crab caught from their own boats, along with her famous clam chowder, crab cakes and crab sandwiches.

If it’s not possible to get to the coast, find Dave Legro or one of his children at the Santa Rosa Farmers Market on Saturday and the Sebastopol Farmers Market on Sunday.

Mike Svedise’s Santa Rosa Seafood attends the Redwood Empire Farmers Market on Saturday and Sunday and the Windsor Farmers Market on Sunday. The store on the edge of downtown Santa Rosa is open Tuesday through Saturday.

Svedise, whom Dave Legro credits with teaching him almost everything he knows about crabbing, operates his own fishing vessels and buys directly off the dock. He can hold up to 4,000 pounds of crab in his live tanks and, when he cooks crab, he’s careful to keep the water at a gentle simmer.

“If crab is cooked at a hard boil, its fat is released and the meat is dry,” he says.

Svedise cooks large batches of 100 to 150 pounds for 26 to 28 minutes. At home, he cooks enough for himself and his family for 15 to 16 minutes, as most experts, including Legro, recommend for the most succulent results. It is also essential to cook the crab in heavily salted water.

G & G Market in Santa Rosa sells up to 20,000 pounds a week of both live and cooked crab. In Healdsburg, Big John’s has cooked crab from The Tides in Bodega Bay and the market is happy to order live crab. A few days’ notice is always best, but orders placed early on a weekday morning can generally be filled by that afternoon.

Everyone who understands crab offers a warning: Reject cooked crabs with loose legs and claws. Healthy crabs that have been cooked live have legs and claws tight against their bodies. Loose limbs indicate the crab was dead when it was cooked; it will likely have a bitter taste and, possibly, mushy meat. Similarly, reject crabs with spongy or cracked shells, or shells with barnacles attached.

The training of Ari Rosen

Ari Rosen owner/chef at Scopa and Campo Fina restaurants in Healdsburg
Ari Rosen owner/chef at Scopa and Campo Fina restaurants in Healdsburg (photo by Chris Hardy)

Chef Ari Rosen of Healdsburg grew up foraging and cooking with his family in Ukiah, where he fell in love with being in the kitchen alongside his mom. He then worked in one Italian restaurant after another, causing him to abandon periodic thoughts of going into law or medicine.

“My parents, without realizing it, gave me the ultimate culinary training,” says the 37-year-old chef. “I came back here because of my knowledge of the abundance.”

Rosen represents a new wave of rising young chefs, restaurateurs and winemakers in Sonoma. He’s passionate about creating dishes that are authentic as well as delicious, committed to sourcing ingredients locally, and fanatical about freshness. There is an ethical quality to how he runs his menus and brings his dishes to life: no corners cut, no food processed, no sleight-of-hand substitutes. It’s all the real deal.

“Sourcing within five or even 100 miles makes a difference,” he says of his produce. “That means they were picked ripe and not ripened in a warehouse. It makes my job easier and more enjoyable.”

For Rosen, the payoff comes from the loyal support of locals, who enjoy eating his soulful Italian fare, from his Nonna’s tomato-braised chicken to his house-made ravioli. He cares, and it shows.

“He makes the food speak for itself, and that’s the biggest compliment that anybody could give a chef,” says Franco Dunn of Franco’s One World Sausages in Healdsburg. “His places are run like a family, and his customers are like family also.”

Scopa was a hit right out of the gate when it opened in 2008. Then the busy Rosen and his business partner/wife, Dawnelise, had a daughter, Serafina, now 3. In 2012, the couple launched their second restaurant, Campo Fina, off an alley behind Scopa. More casual, Campo Fina boasts an outdoor patio where guests can enjoy small plates, bocce ball and la dolce vita.

“I saw the potential,” Rosen says of the al fresco courtyard. “It was about creating a beautiful space to enjoy summery Italian fare.”

Like Scopa, Campo Fina has garnered praise for its simple, rustic dishes, from charred octopus to roasted cauliflower with pine nuts, currants and anchovies.

Strolling around town in a T-shirt, jeans and baseball cap, the down-to-earth Rosen looks more like a Brooklyn cab driver than a top toque. He’s an unpretentious extrovert with a quick, analytical mind who enjoys finding out what makes people tick.

“I’m a big people person,” he says. “So when I’m talking, I have all my attention on that person.”

But the hard-working chef is all business as soon as he enters the kitchen.

“At work, I’m just extremely focused,” he adds. “In the kitchen, my mind is like a clock.”

That focus allows Rosen to create deeply satisfying dishes that pay homage to his many mentors, including his Italian mother, Karen.

“People think I’m a crazy perfectionist or control freak in the kitchen, but then they spend time with my mom and they understand,” he says. “It’s top quality or no quality.”

Rosen’s dad, Norm, is an attorney who practices family law in Ukiah and loves to bake desserts in his spare time. When he’s not working, he bakes Italian tortes and biscotti for both Scopa and Campo Fina.

When he was 7, Rosen and his family started foraging mushrooms in the hills between Willits and Fort Bragg. His dad had already attended a camp hosted by mushroom guru David Arora for foragers ready to move beyond the nervous novice level.

“Everyone should start very cautiously,” Rosen advises. “It’s like walking into a garden and eating leaves and flowers. Some will kill you, and there’s a few that will make you sick.”

After mushrooming, the family would continue to the coast to gather mussels, then bring the bounty back and cook it up with garlic and parsley.

“That was what I loved,” Rosen says. “And it’s the same as I do now.”

After the first rainfall each fall, Rosen’s eyes mist over as the first wave of “mushroom fever” hits.

“I start dreaming of getting porcini,” he says. “In the heart of mushroom season, my eyes are scanning terrain all the time.”

When the mushrooms are popping, Rosen will rise at 4 a.m., grab his knife and compass, and head out before dawn.

“You’re in the zone, and it’s meditative, because you’re only thinking of one thing,” he says. “As soon as you find one mushroom, you’re there … The hunt is on.”

After high school in Ukiah, Rosen went hunting for his Italian roots in the Piedmont region of northern Italy, where his grandfather’s family ran a restaurant. He planned to be there for three days and ended up staying a month.

Later, after graduating from college, he returned to Italy to visit his sister in Florence. Since he had always wanted to work in a restaurant, she urged him to take the plunge.

Rosen went to one of his favorite trattorias and offered to work for free. The Italians laughed at the “stupid American.” But after two cooks got fired, Rosen ended up cooking under chef Lorenzo Torrini and never looked back.

“It was like wildfire,” he says. “Lorenzo gave me all of my technical skills and artistic flair.”

Rosen continued his studies in the “school of hard knocks” under restaurant chef Luca Pecorini, learning the history behind the dishes of Italy. By 2004, he had returned to the West Coast, eventually landing at Santi restaurant in Geyserville and working alongside chefs Dunn and Thomas Oden, Dino Bugica (now at Diavola in Geyserville) and Liza Hinman (now at Spinster Sisters in Santa Rosa).

“We had so much talent going on in that kitchen,” Rosen says. “We were pushing to make the food as authentic as we could.”

When a restaurant space opened up on the Healdsburg Plaza, Rosen jumped on it, fulfilling his dream of opening his own “locals joint.”

“The hospitality business is like ‘Cheers,’” he says. “You want to come to a place where everyone knows your name.”

As different as Scopa and Campo Fina are (Scopa is cozy and warm; Campo Fina is more clean-lined and spare) inviting lighting blends with upbeat music at both to create a fun ambiance.

“There’s so much that goes into making a seamless experience,” Rosen describes. “The trick is to do it without making people notice it.”

Now rather than putting people to sleep in a lab or challenging them in a courtroom, Rosen provides his guests with terrific wine and delicious food, conversation and laughter. It’s an Old-World recipe and a joyous blend.

“I was always interested in creating ambiance and experiences with food,” says Rosen. “I just didn’t realize you could do that for a living.”

Like this wine? Try this wine.

While it’s tempting – and even fitting – to splurge around the holidays, wine is one of those expenses to play around with a little. Try these pairs – one wine for an all-out indulgence, the second smartly cost-conscious, and both perfect for the holiday table.

Pinot Noir for an Earthy Fall Dinner

If you like this:
Donum Estate 2010 Russian River Valley Reserve Pinot Noir ($90)
From a 16-acre patch of magic planted in the mid-1990s by Donum president and viticulturalist extraordinaire Anne Moller-Racke, this is the kind of earthy, soulful Pinot that will make a lifer out of you, brooding in blackberry, blueberry and menthol that will only get more divine with age. Only 76 cases were produced.

Then look for this:
Stemmler 2011 Nugent Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir ($44)
The secret about Stemmler is that it is farmed and vinified by the folks behind Donum. In this case the grapes are from the Nugent Vineyard, planted in 1997 to predominantly Dijon clones, with a handful of Pommard in there as well. A Pinot Noir vibrant in classic River Russian Valley cherry, the wine is a successful marriage between richness and restraint, fresh and full.

Gewürztraminer and Chenin Blanc for Thanksgiving

If you like this:
Dutton-Goldfield 2012 Dutton Ranch-Green Valley Vineyard Green Valley of Russian River Valley Gewürztraminer ($30)
So aromatic it could be bottled as perfume, this Gewürztraminer from the cool Green Valley is a spicy as it is floral, dry yet mouthwatering in tropical peach and jasmine. Able to stand up to all the Thanksgiving turkey variations, the wine’s acidity means it will also hold its own when assaulted by a riot of side dishes, from decadent Brussels sprouts with bacon to, if you must, yams smothered in marshmallows.

Then look for this:
Leo Steen 2011 Saini Farms Dry Creek Valley Chenin Blanc ($18)
Instead of the oft-chosen Gewürztraminer, consider for the turkey course a dry Chenin Blanc from the oldest Chenin vines in the Dry Creek Valley, made by Stuhlmuller Vineyards winemaker Leo Steen Hansen. For his own label, he has crafted a floral white abundant in acidity and texture, and layered in the flavors of fall, from apple and pear to honeyed beeswax.

Cabernet Sauvignon for Christmas Dinner
If you like this:
Sequoia Grove 2008 Cambium Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ($140)
Here is a dark-black, classically intense Napa Cab that’ll sing when served with standing rib roast and all the fixings, especially if the wine has a bit of age (which this one does) and is decanted. Cambium is a mouthful of black cherries and cinnamon toast, with luxurious streaks of bittersweet chocolate, too. Rich and full in the most hedonistically impressive way, it’s a treat to you and those gathered ’round for this once-a-year occasion.

Then look for this:
Sequoia Grove 2010 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ($38)
Not everything has to be over the top. Sequoia Grove’s more mainstream, youthful Cab will equally delight on your holiday table, with plenty of blackberry fruit and smooth, ripe vanilla and clove, with a touch of smoky oak on the finish. It’s approachable without decanting.

Sparkler for New Year’s Eve

If you like this:
Roederer Estate 2004 Brut L’Hermitage Anderson Valley ($47)
One of the estate’s top cuvées, a sparkling blend of 52 percent Chardonnay and 48 percent Pinot Noir, and vintage-dated, this is among the classiest of bubblies to have on hand, a testament to California fruit treated Champagne-style. Go all out and enjoy it with caviar and oysters or a rich raclette; don’t let a precious sip goes to waste.

Then look for this:
Donkey & Goat 2012 Lily’s Cuvée Anderson Valley Pétillant Naturel ($24)
Now for something completely different: Berkeley’s Donkey & Goat Winery has been turning heads for making all sorts of delectable wines, perhaps most especially for this, its Pét Nat, as its commonly called. Pétillant Naturel is a classification of sparkling wine made without additives (no sugar, no yeast), sometimes called méthode ancestrale. This one sources Chardonnay from Anderson Valley’s Deep End district. It’s a light, low-alcohol offering that will help you celebrate all night and minimize the suffering the next day.

Chardonnay for a Crab Feast

If you like this:
Three Sticks 2011 Origin Durell Vineyard Sonoma Coast Chardonnay ($48)
Fermented in a concrete egg, this second vintage of Three Sticks’ under-300-case-production Chardonnay, from two hand-selected blocks of Durell Vineyard, is aged in stainless steel, giving it a combined sense of fresh acidity and creamy mouthfeel. A bit of a splurge, it’ll rock your table, its flavors a study in Chablis-like wet stone and perfumed orange rind.

Then look for this:
Saracina 2012 Unoaked Mendocino County Chardonnay ($18)
This crisp, vibrant Chardonnay has a pretty nose of pear, Granny Smith apple and pineapple, with soft textures that make it deliciously quaffable. While it may smell and taste very much of summer, its richness – all fruit-based, not from oak, thank you – makes it an easy-to-consume pairing alongside wintertime’s crustacean bounty.

Guess who’s coming to dinner

Tommy Smothers, Guy Fieri, or Tom Waites, who would you invite to your Holiday dinner? (Alvin Jornada / The Press Democrat)

It’s the conversation that makes a holiday feast a lasting memory — the storytelling, the one-liners, the toasts.

If we imagine inviting one more person to our holiday table, just who from Sonoma would liven it up?

Dan Kosta

“Is Tommy Smothers available?” quips Dan Kosta, co-vintner of Sebastopol’s  Kosta Browne Winery, of the well-known comedian who with his brother, Dick, formed the Smothers Brothers and kept 1960s audiences in stitches.

“You gotta have entertainment and humor…,” Kosta added.”It would have to be someone with a sense of humor … I don’t like taking the holidays too seriously. ”

Kosta plans to celebrate Christmas at home with his wife, Alli, and their three children, Mazie, 7, Maggie, 5, and Sean, 4.

“We like to have the kids wake up on Christmas morning in their own beds, to their own tree and presents,” Kosta says. “Christmas dinner is usually fairly early and we’re most likely still in our pajamas, enjoying braised short ribs and great wine.  Surprise!”

Duskie Estes

Duskie Estes’ pick would be celebrity chef Guy Fieri, with his white-blonde spiky hair and larger-than-life personality.

“Guy would enliven any table,” said Estes, the chef of Sebastopol’s Zazu restaurant.  “We cook well together. He doesn’t step on my toes, and he can make a mean taco al pastor. That’s a sure-fire way to my heart!”

Fieri is a household name thanks to celebrity TV; he hosts the Food Network’s “Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives” show. Locally, he’s known for his two Santa Rosa restaurants – Tex Wasabi’s and Johnny Garlic’s –  and Johnny Garlic’s in Windsor.

For Thanksgiving, Estes and her family make turkey BLTs, which she claims is the best expression of turkey. “The ‘T’ is turkey, not tomato,” she says, adding that homegrown lettuce and the addition of avocado elevate the sandwich to celebration-level fare.

Marcy Smothers

Tom Waits, legendary American singer-songwriter and occasional actor with the distinctive growling voice, is Marcy Smothers’ choice of guest.

“Waits is one of Sonoma County’s treasures,” says Smothers (who has in the past shared a holiday table with Tommy Smothers).

“Waits is an original and, I’d venture to guess, a fine raconteur. It would be a treat to hear him muse on any subject and bonus points if he’d sit at the piano and sing.”

Smothers, a radio host, home cook and author, says she plans to celebrate the holidays at home with other foodies — friends, family and a few wild cards.

“We have a tradition of expressing gratitude,” she says, “but with Tom (Waits) there, I imagine we’d be tippling and toasting more than usual.”

A Mission Christmas

The Mission San Francisco Solano in Sonoma. Photo: Kent Porter
The Mission San Francisco de Solano in Sonoma, Christmas carolers leave the chapel by candlelight after one of four services at the historic mission in downtown Sonoma. (photo by Kent Porter)

There are no headliners booked for the hottest ticket of the holiday season in Sonoma.

It’s just neighbors, children to elders, standing shoulder to shoulder, singing traditional Christmas carols to the collective light of scores of flickering candles dancing on the whitewashed adobe walls of the historic Mission San Francisco de Solano.

By candlelight, within this primitive, strikingly unadorned chapel, on this one night of the year, time is suspended.

Celebrating “Christmas at the Mission” is an enchanting experience because of its simplicity. No flash, no commercial hustle or fussy food, just the camaraderie of community and seasonal cheer followed by cookies and cider across the street at the old Toscano Hotel, which also is open and decorated with a Christmas tree. Twinkling luminarias help light a path between the mission and the hotel, giving the plaza a softly festive glow.

“When you go to that event, it’s like one big happy family,” says Sonoma city historian George McKale. “There are so many familiar faces. You forget what’s going on in the outside world.”

The short, non-denominational service is as simple as the mission chapel itself, a minimalist, Mexican military-style church built by Gen. Mariano Vallejo in 1840 after the original 1823 mission church founded by Father Jose Altimira was destroyed.

As attendees enter the dimly lit chapel, past the mission’s original holy water font on the left, everyone over 12 is presented with a lit candle. As they move forward and the chapel fills, the narrow space slowly illuminates, candle by candle, until the room is radiant with warm firelight. The experience is sweetly moving.

As visitors enter the dimly lit chapel and pass the mission's original holy water font, everyone over 12 is presented with a lit candle.
As visitors enter the dimly lit chapel and pass the mission’s original holy water font, everyone over 12 is presented with a lit candle. (photo by Kent Porter)

“Without that mission, Sonoma probably wouldn’t be here,” McKale says. “(It) has this special feeling that goes back to the roots of this town. It doesn’t matter what religion you are. It’s magical.”

There is no charge for tickets for the December 14 event, although they are only available for several hours on the Saturday morning before Thanksgiving; this year it is November 23. You must pick up tickets in person at the mission; only 200 are available for each of four services, the first of which begins at 4:30 p.m. and the last at 7:30 p.m.