Pullman taking over Syrah?

Josh Silvers at the former Three Squares
Josh Silvers at the former Three Squares
Josh Silvers at the former Three Squares

Rumors have been flying for months about Napa chef Darren McRonald taking over the now-shuttered Three Squares (formerly the much-lauded Syrah) in Santa Rosa.

Until yesterday, owner Josh Silvers has been tight-lipped about the changeover, but an ABC “change of ownership” sign went up this week under the business name The Pullman Kitchen.

Silvers now confirms the potential owner is McRonalds but says nothing has been finalized. McRonald has been a fixture in several of Napa chef Cindy Pawlcyn’s restaurants including St. Helena’s Wood Grill and Bar (formerly Brassica) and Cindy’s Backstreet Kitchen, along with the now-shuttered West County Grill in Sebastopol and Chez Panisse in Berkeley.

Torc opening in Napa

Sean O’Toole of Torc restaurant opening in the former Ubuntu space.
Sean O'Toole of Torc restaurant opening in the former Ubuntu space.
Sean O’Toole of Torc restaurant opening in the former Ubuntu space.

Popular Napa chef, Sean O’Toole opens the doors to Torc on Monday, Nov. 25, ending more than a year of speculation as to who would go into the former vegetarian restaurant/yoga studio, Ubuntu. Biteclub’s a big fan of O’Toole, who has roots in Sonoma County, and has cooked at a number of high-profile Bay Area restaurants including SF’s Cotogna and Quince and Napa Valley’s Bardessono and Hopper Creek Kitchen.

We’re especially excited to hear about his plans to showcase finds from superstar forager Connie Green (a Good Food Award nominee and author of “The Wild Table”) on his menu. His opening lineup includes Bengali Sweet Potato Pakora with Yogurt-Truffle Dip ($5), Violet Artichoke Soup with Chanterelle Mushrooms, Mint and Lemon ($10), Jamón Ibérico with Grilled Garlic Crouton ($15), Dungeness Crab Salad with Buddha Hand, Satsuma Mandarin, Avocado and Herb Salad ($14), Housemade Strozzapreti with Pecorino Romano, Tellicherry Pepper and Dino Kale ($13), Hudson Ranch Heritage Pork with Cheddar Grits, Collard Greens and Mustard Sauce ($25) and Roasted Chicken for Two with Black Spice, Coconut Rice and Spicy Bok Choy ($41).  Dessert includes items like Mt. Tam Cheese with Piment D’Espelette Marmalade and Pickled Chanterelles ($6) and Napa Meyer Lemon Tart with Smoked Hazelnut Ganache and Sable Breton ($9).

Insiders say not much has been done to the chic space since its Ubuntu days, including the open kitchen and soaring 30 foot ceilings. The former yoga studio has been converted to a private dining area.

The curious name, Torc, pays homage to O’Toole’s Celtic roots, meaning “boar” in Gaelic. But to the chef, it’s an emblem of convivial feasting and hospitality. The restaurant will open for dinner only from 5:30 to 9p.m. daily, with brunch service starting in January.

1140 Main St. at Pearl St., Napa, (707) 252-3292. torcnapa.com.

Tofurky: Yum or yuck?

Is tofurky really an alternative to turkey?
Is tofurky really an alternative to turkey?
Is tofurky really an alternative to turkey?

The poor Tofurky. The football shaped loaf of tofu has been a running joke at Thanksgiving tables for years. Tofu instead of turkey? As if.

Thing is, you’d be hard-pressed to find an omnivore who’s ever tasted one. So BiteClub took on the challenge of cooking up the odd blob of tofu and spices with a rice and stuffing surprise in the middle. With Tofurky gravy. First off, it cooks up in about 90 minutes in a casserole dish to which you add carrots, onions and potatoes. Baste with some olive oil, soy sauce and dried sage. The scent is heavenly, and in the time it takes to get old Tom turkey dressed, seasoned and trussed, Thanksgiving is served.

Our unofficial taste test results: It’s pretty darn good. In fact, moister than a lot of turkey breasts I’ve had. The flavor is true to the traditional holiday bird, although there’s a definite “tofu” aftertaste. It’s a reasonable alternative if you’re cutting back on your animal proteins, can’t cook worth a darn (it’s pretty foolproof) or just want something a little different this year.

At least one reprieved turkey will thank you.

Available in the freezer section of most grocery stores.

Mariah’s Fight: Help Out

mariahMariah Roat, 22, is in the fight of her life, facing Stage 4 colon cancer. The La Rosa Tequileria and Grill employee has garnered the support of La Rosa and many of the North Bay’s restaurant industry folks for a massive fundraiser on Nov. 21, 2013 from 11am Thursday to 2am Friday. During that time, 100% of sales, tips, donations and prayers received go directly to Mariah.

In addition, the restaurant will hold a silent auction from 4-8pm featuring luxury items and from local vendors including:

* Spa treatments for two and room stay at The Meritage Spa and Resort Napa
* Golf for four at Foxtail Course and Patron Golf bag
* 4 night stay at private home on Catalina Island
* Pearls gifted by E.R. Sawyer
* Camping gear provided by Marmot
* Snowboards, gear and lift tickets to Sugar Loaf
* Exclusive private taste pairings and winery tours by Portalupi Wines, Stag’s Leap, Chateau St. Jean and more
* Lash Extension Set by LashOut!
* Wine Paired Chef Dinner for 12 in Stark’s Steak House Wine Cellar
* Exclusive Signed Tequila Ambassador Book by Tomas Estes
* La Rosa Tequila Dinner Tickets
* La Rosa Bottle Service Package

The restaurant will feature special menu items along with live music in their upstairs lounge.
500 Fourth St., Santa Rosa.

Can’t make it in person? Donate online.

Thanksgiving in Sonoma County 2013

wholefoodsthanksgivingSure, Thanksgiving is a time for gathering ’round the family table, but who says it has to be yours? Instead of spending hours slaving in a hot kitchen, there are plenty of eat-out, pick-up and “who has to know you didn’t make it?” options throughout Sonoma County.

This year, celebrate turkey day in a new way. Just remember to get a doggy bag for those post-Thanksgiving turkey and stuffing cravings. Here are some of our favorite spots throughout Sonoma County.

Santa Rosa

Stark’s Steakhouse & Seafood: Roast turkey, Chef Mark’s andouille sausage and blue cheese stuffing, traditional giblet gravy and pomegranate-cranberry relish, $26. Also offering dessert specials, pumpkin pie and Mamma Janne’s cream cheese pie. Most regular items available, including raw bar and seafood dishes, but the restaurant won’t be serving burgers or entrée Caesar salads on Thanksgiving day. 2-7pm, 521 Adams St, Santa Rosa. Reservations highly suggested: (707) 546-5100 or via Open Table.

Willie Bird’s Restaurant: Family-favorite serving up local Willie Birds. Full holiday turkey dinner along with other menu items. Reservations required and most are nailed down well in advance, but some walk-ins accepted. Open until 8pm. 1150 Santa Rosa Ave., Santa Rosa, (707) 542-0861. Can’t get in for Thanksgiving: Grab a turkey Monte Cristo on Black Friday.

Cafe Europe: Four course diner, $39, from 1 to 6pm includes selection of mushroom ravioli, turkey, filet mignon, lamb loin and wild boar ragout. 104 Calistoga Road  Santa Rosa, (707) 538-5255

John Ash and Co.: Three-course holiday menu includes porcini mushroom soup with black truffles, duck terrine, butternut squash ravioli, roasted turkey, cranberry brined pork tenderloin, spiced pumpkin creme brulee and an apple cheddar tart. $65pp, $35 kids under 12. Call for reservations. 350 Barnes Rd., Santa Rosa, (707) 527-7687.

Brasserie at the Hyatt Vineyard Creek: Three course dinner includes butternut squash soup, Dungeness crab cake, roasted turkey, salmon, flat iron steak, pumpkin cheesecake and apple cobbler ala mode. $42pp, 170 Railroad Street, Santa Rosa, (707) 284-1234.

Healdsburg

Dry Creek Kitchen: Three course menu includes housemade charcuterie, sugar pie pumpkin soup, thyme-brined turkey, braised short ribs, steak frites, butternut squash ravioli, bourbon pecan pie. $65 per person. Served 2-7pm; 317 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, (866) 458-7224

Cocina Latina: Thanksgiving Yucateca-style. Mateo Granados’ restaurant serves up Tacones with trout roe, Relleno Blanco de Pavo (Diestel Family Farm turkey with hard boiled egg centered embutido, white gravy “Mayan k’ol”, Soda Rock tomate frito and sea salt hand-made tortilla), traditional Thanksgiving turkey and sticky bun flan.  $55 per person, serving 11:30am to 7:30 p.m. Reservations recommended, (707) 433-1520 or on Opentable.

Spoonbar: A casual four courses include scallion and cheddar biscuits, slow roasted turkey, bread pudding, ginger molasses glazed carrots, turkey and ham cassoulet, apple tarte tatin.. $60 for adults and $25 for children. 219 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, (707) 922-5426.

Sonoma
Carneros Bistro and Bar at Lodge at Sonoma: Chef Andrew Wilson prepares a three-course menu of Butternut Squash Soup, Roasted Turkey with chestnuts, “Square Pig” (pork confit with brioche dressing and Blue lake beans), dayboat scallops, pumpkin or pecan pie. Thanksgiving dinner will be served on Thursday, November 22 for $65 per person and $35 for children. 1325 Broadway St., Sonoma,(707) 935-6600.

girl and the fig: Four course menu including fig and arugula salad, roasted squash salad, roasted turkey roulade with cornbread stuffing, prime rib, wild mushroom ravioli and pumpkin cheesecake. $57 per person. 110 West Spain St., Sonoma, (707) 938-3634.

Depot Hotel: Four courses at a favorite Sonoma bistro features corn chowder, roast turkey with sage stuffing. Other entrees: poached salmon, orecchiette pasta with butternut squash, veal picatta or beef shortribs. Cheesecake, pumpkin pie or chocolate decadence with mango sauce. $37 $45pp, seatings from noon to 7pm; 241 First St., West, Sonoma, (707) 938-2980.

Sante: An epic Thanksgiving buffet that puts all other buffets to shame. The highlight reel: Butternut squash with creme fraiche, shrimp cocktail, assorted charcuteries, artisan cheeses served by the Maitre Fromager, smoked salmon and caviar, classic Caesar, ricotta tortellini salad. Carving stations of Diestel turkey with brioche and sage stuffing, filet mignon, but wait there’s more…pumpkin ravioli, sea bass, lamb, mashed potatoes, Brussels sprouts, artisan breads, pumpkin pie, chocolate Bourbon tart, pumpkin cheesecake, cherry macaroons, pear and ginger financier, gingerbread and so much more. $99pp, (707) 939-2415.

Inn at the Tides: Bay View  Restaurant features a feast of roasted turkey, pumpkin ravioli, lasagna Bolognese, grilled salmon, lamb, filet mignon and more from 1 to 8p.m., 800 Highway One, Bodega Bay, (707) 875-2669.

Petaluma
Central Market: Always a favorite in Petaluma, Chef Ton Najiola celebrates his annual Thanksgiving dinner with four luscious courses. $60pp, $84 with wine. Kids under 12, $20. 42 Petaluma Blvd N., Petaluma, (707) 778-9900.

Pick It Up

Thanksgiving by Whole Foods: Recently I saw a chef literally cringe when he heard the words .99 cents per pound and turkey. People, even though you’re only eating it once a year, have enough respect for your taste buds (if not the turkey) to commit to something that’s humanely-raised, organic (if possible) and for heaven’s sake tastes good. I’m a huge fan of Diestel turkeys, raised in Sonora. They taste delicious, especially when someone else roasts them to perfection and your only job is to reheat it on Thanksgiving morning.

Along with pre-cooked (and non-precooked) turkey, they have gravy (sans lumps), sides, pies, and other desserts in a mix-and-match combination you can order online. Details at the Whole Foods website.

G+G Market: Complete dinners will run you between $59 (for a 12 lb turkey) to $99 for a gourmet dinner that includes brandy-marinated cranberry sauce, a free range Willie Bird turkey and white truffle mashed potatoes. ORDERING DEADLINE IS MONDAY, Nov. 25. Santa Rosa 546-6877 , Petaluma 765-1198.

Red’s Apple Roadhouse open

The PudNut, basically fried bread pudding. Noms.
The PudNut, basically fried bread pudding. Noms.
The PudNut, basically fried bread pudding. Noms.

Red’s Apple Roadhouse opens in West County Wine Country: Takeout fried chicken and donuts are on the opening menu for the re-opened Sebastopol roadhouse along Highway 116. You’ll know you’re in the right spot by the cheerful boar’s head sign (eating an apple, of course) and the fact that it’s located right next to Mom’s Apple Pie. Co-owner Berry Salinas has come up with a bevy of creative fried goodies that start the day right: apple cider donuts, the “Pudnut”  (donut bread pudding), apple fritters and Bella Rosa coffee to wash it down. Order up your fried chicken dinners for pick up Tuesday through Saturday (707-861-9338) from 4-6:30 p.m. complete mashed potatoes and coleslaw on the side.

Lunch service began Nov. 14 and is ramping up to include burgers, onion rings and other goodies. Full dinner and sit-down dining planned for December.

Gastronomist Pop Up

joeGastronomist Pop-Up at Forchetta in Sebastopol: Chef Joe Rueter, who’s been a BiteClub favorite since his long-ago days as the Green Grocer in Windsor, is launching a temporary restaurant-within-a-restaurant Thursdays through Saturdays at Forchetta Restaurant in Sebastopol. You may know him from area farm markets, where he serves up mind-blowing seasonal dishes using ingredients from his farm on little more than a couple of griddles, like the best-ever BLT, steamed pork buns and duck tacos. Lunch and dinner from 10a.m. to 10 p.m. with a variety of dishes from fish tacos and applewood grilled quail to lamb burgers, their famous BLT and several vegan options (sprouted salad, miso noodles). Wine and beer will be offered. 6948 Sebastopol Ave, Sebastopol.

12 Days of Chefmas

meadowood1Each December, luxe resort Meadowood Napa Valley, and its three-Michelin star chef, Christopher Kostow put together a lineup of international chefs and winemakers that have culinary sorts clapping their hands with the kind of glee reserved for five-year-olds on Christmas morning. We call it the twelve days of Chefmas. They simply call it the Twleve Days of Christmas at Meadowood Napa Valley. Pricing for the dinners isn’t for penny-pinchers, but if you can swing the $1315 (and up) price tag, they’ll reserve you a seat at the table (plus lodging) with Pok Pok’s Andy Ricker and Mike Grgich of Grgich Hills(Dec. 6), David Chang of Momofuku with Turley Wine Cellars, (Dec. 13), Matthew Accarrino of SPQR with Tuck Beckstoffer with his namesake wines(Dec. 14), David Kinch of Manresa  with Notre Vin and Malbec and Malbec Cellars(Dec. 20) or the host, Christopher Kostow with…wait for it…Harlan Estate. There are only sixty seats available per dinner, so you’ll be in exclusive company. Or, you know, you can stand outside with your nose pressed against the window panes, drooling, like us. Details online at meadowood.com.

Kenwood Restaurant Re-opening

[sh-slideshow-post id=”28050″]

It’s an almost uncomfortable moment when Chef Max Schacher, the longtime toque of the iconic Kenwood Restaurant, lifts a glass to the new owners and young chef taking over his restaurant. “Sante!” we say, clinking wine glasses, but Schacher quickly disavows me of any feelings that the moment is bittersweet. “I think it’s great!” he says of new owner Bill Foss (of Fish in Sausalito, sustainable seafood company TwoXSea and the recently-opened Canetti’s in Forestville) and young chef Anthony Paone. And it’s not hard to see why.

The entire focus for the new venture is an ode to Valley of the Moon’s colorful history, from the indigenous Wappo tribe to Spanish settlers, Buena Vista founder Agoston Haraszthy de Mokesa to the restaurant’s former life as “Bunny’s Fried Chicken”. Both Foss and Paone have painstakingly researched everything about the area, incorporating foraged herbs, a Hungarian-inspired beef stew, trout from Foss’ McFarland Springs trout farm, local rabbit sausage and “Bunny Wings” (fried rabbit forelegs)–a nod to Bunny’s on their proposed opening menu.

BiteClub got a first look at several dishes on a pre-opening night supper, and they’re stunners–even in previews.

Shying away from now-meaningless words like “farm to table” they’re simply calling the food “Sonoma cuisine”. Favorites included duck and hominy soup with a poached duck egg; a refined yet earthy rabbit sausage using both meat and offal; a take on cioppino that will ruin you for any other; fingerling potatoes with trout roe and sour cream and Foss’ pink trout with cornbread stuffing–destined to be a signature dish. Don’t get too attached to anything, however, since Paone is dedicated to changing things up frequently.

Of course, regulars will notice plenty of changes, including an updated interior, bocce court and outdoor pond which now sits where the giant metal wings once hovered outside.  Still around, however, is the whimsical animals-in-chef-hats freize that once graced the historic Poodle Dog restaurant in San Francisco.

The restaurant is in soft-opening as of this week, with a grand-opening in the coming weeks. 9900 Sonoma Highway, Kenwood. Check out pictures of my meal at BiteClubEats.com.

Bake-A-Thon

Please select a time on Nov. 17 or 18 to bake. You may bake your own cookies, or volunteer to make someone else’s cookies. Times are in 90 minute appointments. MOST ingredients will be provided, but please contact me if there are special items you’ll need.

The Bake-A-Thon will take place at G+G Market from 9:30am to 6pm on Nov. 17 and 18.

PLEASE CLICK HERE TO REGISTER FOR A TIME SLOT. THERE IS NO COST.