George Webber plays Count Agoston Haraszthy for Buena Vista Winery. He is the ambassador for the winery, bringing the founder of the winery to life (photo by Jeff Kan Lee, 2012)
Winemaking in California is “new” compared to Old World Europe, begun some 200 years ago and kicked into higher gear by monks, Mexicans and military commander Mariano Vallejo. Yet no single figure had more gumption and vision than Agoston Haraszthy, the Hungarian who founded Buena Vista Winery in Sonoma in 1857 as the first commercial winery in California.
Agoston Haraszthy founded Buena Vista in 1857.
Through Haraszthy, historian Charles L. Sullivan delves into California’s early wine struggles and successes in “Sonoma Wine and the Buena Vista Story,” a book published by the Wine Appreciation Guild. In the introduction, Sullivan writes that he was asked to author the history of Buena Vista Winery by its owner, Jean-Charles Boisset, and agreed to do so if the book’s scope was expanded to all of Sonoma County.
It follows a straight line through Haraszthy and his global travels, the impacts of which are still felt in Sonoma’s thriving wine industry. Prohibition is detailed, as are the various boom-and-bust periods of the industry.
The “Passing the Baton” chapter covers 1980 through 2011, vaulting the Sonoma wine business to where it is today. The final chapter discusses the arrival of Boisset from France in 2003 and his ongoing restoration of the Buena Vista property, complete with his own “Count of Buena Vista” played by George Webber.
As Joel Peterson, winemaker at Ravenswood Winery in Sonoma, notes in the foreword, “Imagination, depression, boom, recession, ambition, chutzpah, luck and wisdom all add to the narrative.”
Sommelier Joel Francisco Chacon Valdes of Casa Del Habano soaks in the sunshine and the view while Juan Jesus Machin Gonzalez, sommelier and maitre d’ of Presidente Hotel snaps a photo of him. (photo by Alvin Jornada)
The Sonoma and Napa hosts who wined and dined a delegation of Cuban sommeliers and other hospitality professionals from the slowly emerging island nation performed admirably at making the visitors feel as satisfied and at-home as in Old Havana.
“I was dreaming of this moment, and I got it,” exulted Osiris Oramas, manager of Havana’s La Barca Restaurant, as he lifted into the sunlight a glass of Blanc de Noirs at Gloria Ferrer Caves & Vineyards in Sonoma. He eyed the color, clarity and bubbles, and sipped. “Spectacular!” he declared.
Sommeliers Orlando Pe’alver, left, and Orlando Blanco taste a Klinker Brick 2012 Old Ghost old vine zinfandel from Lodi during the Cuban Sommelier Summit at Ramekins in Sonoma. (photo by Alvin Jornada)
Oramas and 21 fellow travelers on this first collective journey by wine-savvy Cubans to California sampled premium wines, often accompanied by hand-rolled Habanos cigars from home. They also toured and tasted at Benziger Family Winery in Glen Ellen, Healdsburg’s Seghesio Family Vineyards and MacMurray Ranch, overlooking the Russian River southwest of Healdsburg.
All through the week of July 20, the visitors paired wines with food and spoke with knowledgeable sorts from nearly every aspect of the California wine industry. They kept a brisk pace and jammed their minds with details of the state’s myriad appellations, labels and growing export market.
Then they unwound over leisurely meals at Ramekins and Buena Vista Winery in Sonoma, Healdsburg’s Dry Creek Kitchen, and in the Napa Valley as the guests of Michael Mondavi. The sommeliers also learned about matching wine and chocolate at Sonoma’s Sebastiani Vineyards.
Arranging their visit was Californians Building Bridges, a group created by Sonoma’s Darius and Sarah Anderson to strengthen trade and cultural ties between Cuba and California. Darius Anderson, a principal of Sonoma Media Investments, which owns Sonoma magazine, hailed the visit as the nonprofit’s opportunity “to return the kindness and warmth that has welcomed us to Cuba on our many missions over the last 12 years.”
Salvador Gonzalez cuts Sauvignon blanc grapes during harvest at the David Coffaro Estate Vineyard in Geyserville. (photo by Beth Schlanker)
They call it “la Pisca” — the pick or the harvest — and for the workers who flood into vineyards every August and September, this is crunch time. They make more money during this long sprint into November than any other time of the year.
The work, they say, is all in the lower body. Their legs bending over and over to lift bins that can weigh 30 to 40 pounds, they often duck under trellised vines to get back to the tractor three or four rows away, where they dump their bins of grapes into larger gondolas.
Chardonnay wine grapes bask in the late evening fall sun in a vineyard off Piner Road in Santa Rosa. (photo by Kent Porter)
The workers’ loyalty and diligence are crucial when grapes have to be harvested immediately. A delay of even a day or two in picking can alter the keen balance of sugar, tannin and acidity that winemakers seek in the grapes they’ll turn into wine.
Most winemakers want grapes harvested at night or in the early morning, when the clusters are cool and crisp — ideal for starting fermentation. The pickers stay cooler and more productive, too — and happier, as they’ll make more money.
In a typical harvest season, different varieties ripen at different times, so the work spreads out over two or three months. Grapes for sparkling wine are picked first, prized for their bracing acidity and low ripeness levels. Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Gris usually come off the vines next, followed by Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. The hearty red grapes Zinfandel, Merlot and especially Cabernet Sauvignon are late-ripeners and in cool years can keep crews working fast and furious into late October and early November.
The 2014 harvest began on July 30 — some two weeks earlier than normal, spurred by a warm, all-too-dry growing season. Depending on the vagaries of Mother Nature, it will likely end in late October.
From left: Bob and Delores Allen and Kathy and Chris Cutshall, the parents of Jason Allen and Lindsay Cutshall, on Tuesday visit the bluff overlooking the beach north of Jenner where their children were murdered ten years ago. (Kent Porter, file)
Our reader feedback this issue comes from the online conversation started by a particularly powerful story. A devout young couple from the Midwest were murdered on a Jenner beach 10 years ago in a haunting crime that remains unsolved. Our story, “Lost & Found,” detailed their parents’ search for understanding and evoked these strong responses from readers.
On Lost & Found
Jason Allen, 26, and Lindsay Cutshall, 22, took this photo of themselves days before they were found shot to death in August of 2004 on Fish Head Beach near Jenner.
Terri DuVal Riffle: Thank you for this article. We must always keep the memory of Lindsay and Jason alive. It is so good to know the Sonoma County detectives are actively working the case.
SRmom: I have thought about this crime off and on for 10 years. My heart goes out to these families and I pray that this cowardly murderer is caught and brought to justice. And I’m glad that law enforcement is diligent in solving this terrible crime. God knows who did this and everything is in His timing, not ours. Excellent article, compassionate and informative.
Jane: The father’s immediate reaction to his child’s death stunned me. It is not normal, even for a very religious person to behave the way he did. Any normal parent who believes in God would be devastated by that tragic news. I doubt if believing in a god had anything to do with this father’s view. God did not take their child from them: She was killed. Perhaps the father just couldn’t accept her death and dealt with it in his own way by denying it?
Kathy Cutshall (mom): My husband was in no way glad when he heard that our daughter was murdered. Our grief is so great that you could never imagine unless this happened to you. … He merely stated that he would rather know that she was safe in heaven than suffering at the hands of some crazy person. We know that we will be safe in heaven when we die. … Too bad that bothers some of you, because some day the truth will be known to you as well. Well written, Jeremy Hay.
mattnorcal: I thought the suspect in this case died in a shootout with cops in Nevada? Another rumor was that the guy who did this killed himself shortly after the crime. Either way, it’s sad that in today’s society we can’t even go sleep on the beach. …
Mary: I cannot believe it has been 10 years since these horrible, puzzling murders. Deep Peace to the victims’ families.
Immortal Illumined: Every time I go to the ROCK I think about them. How can we not find the killer?
Jane: The more I see this couple’s picture, the sadder I become. They look very happy and had everything to live for and the hope of a fabulous future together. Our northern coastal areas can be the most romantic place to be, especially when you are young and in love. Scary thought that there are brutal killers out there.
Santa Rosa Mom: I, too, still think of this story often. I do hope that the police find the person(s) who killed this beautiful couple. Back in the day, I always suspected that it may have been some gang initiation.
****
Chanell Adamson and her daughter, Tilly, 3 (photos by Chris Hardy)
Also in the July/August was a feature on Glamping, aka Glamour camping. Here is what readers had to say about that.
On Glamping
Jennifer Wagers: Give me the good ole way any day over glamping. Much better. Just my opinion. If you’re outdoors enjoying with others then it’s great any way. 🙂
Dennis Penny: I’m strictly old-school, I guess. If I’m going camping, I’m pitching a tent and truly camping, not this glamping nonsense. lol
Stephanie Merrida-Grant: We were die-hard dirt campers, but with three small children, we were limited to spring and summer camping. As a mom, I felt guilty taking my kids on off season camping trips in a tent. We bought a deluxe tent trailer with heated mattresses and a heater. … We love our new accommodations and the seasonal versatility we now have. We just returned from a monthlong adventure that took us to Zion National Park, the Grand Canyon and several sights along the way. There’s nothing sweeter than the memories we build and cherish together. …
Wine Country Weekend brings out the party in everyone
Wine Country Weekend brings out the party in everyone
Sonoma County is no slouch when it comes to putting on world-class events. But the one that’s on everyone’s annual to-do: Wine Country Weekend.
The three-day event starts with winemaker dinners and barbecues throughout the county and a gala dinner at Francis Ford Coppola Winery on Friday, August 29 from 6:30 to 10p.m. Locals know that the poolside stage and million-dollar vineyard views make this Geyserville destination worth the drive, but with Chef John Toulze of the girl & the fig in the kitchen and more than 25 wineries pouring, this kick-off sets the tone for a weekend of indulgence.
Saturday’s Taste of Sonoma at MacMurray Ranch is gastro-overload with 65 restaurants and more than 150 wineries sampling gourmet bites with Sonoma’s best wines. Let’s just say you have to work very, very hard to get to even half of the goodies on hand. Other Saturday events include wine and food pairings with Kendall Jackson, wine tours with Sonoma’s Sommelier Stars, a self-guided tour of the MacMurray estate, a Steel Chef competition (BiteClub will be judging!) and plenty of bubbly in the Bubble Lounge.
If you’re still able to stand upright by Sunday, the Sonoma Harvest Wine Auction raises some serious cheddar (last year it was $700,000) for literacy, mentoring, health and housing, arts and nutritional programs right here in Sonoma County. Auction items include an 82-bottle collection of iconic Sonoma County wines, a luxury tour of Hong Kong with winemaker Jean-Charles Boisset, a once-in-a-lifetime vertical tasting of exclusive Sonoma County pinot noirs and a private fly-fishing excursion at the ultra-exclusive Teller Wildlife Refuge in Montana.
Donburi at Ramen Gaijin, a new pop-up ramen bar. Photo stolen from the Ramen Gaijin Faceboook Page.
Donburi at Ramen Gaijin, a new pop-up ramen bar. Photo stolen from the Ramen Gaijin Faceboook Page.
Okay, so I almost don’t want to tell anyone about the ramen pop-up, Ramen Gaijin, happening on selected Mondays at Woodfour Brewing (6780 Depot St, Sebastopol, at the Barlow). Almost.
But we’re so starved for good ramen in the North Bay, that word-of-mouth is traveling fast and BiteClubbers just gotta be in on it.
In July, Chefs Moishe Hahn-Schuman and Matthew Williams quietly started a every-other-week slurp-n-burp shindig featuring incredible bowls of handmade ramen with pork belly, bonito flakes, mushrooms, and lightly poached eggs. To boot, the curated menu also includes karaage (Japanese fried chicken) or donburi, an Asian-inspired salad and sorbet with yuzu curd, depending on the chefs’ whims.
They sold out the first two, and are expecting a fairly large crowd this Monday, for the third edition, which runs from 5:30 to 10p.m. (first come, first served with the waiting list opening at 4:30p.m).
But these ramen boys are just warming up, with another Ramen Gaijin slated for Sept. 8 at Woodfour, and are in the midst of planning several others at Sebastopol’s Forchetta and SHED in Healdsburg.
I’ll have more details and some mouth-watering pix next week (in addition to some details on some, but meantime, you can get this week’s menu and more details online at facebook.com/RamenGaijin.
The BBQ Spot will move to Downtown Santa Rosa later this year
CLOSED
Lots of folks buzzing about the news thatBBQ Spot, the hugely popular barbecue restaurant on Santa Rosa Ave., will be moving its operations to The Brickyard Center in downtown Santa Rosa.
The ‘cue joint will take up residence at the long-empty Mister Hof-Brau (which closed in 2012) by late fall.
Owners say they’ve outgrown their tiny—and we mean tiny—storefront they’ve occupied since 2011. Fans line up for their brisket and ribs, which some days sells out by late afternoon.
Want to get your fix before the move? Head to 3448 Santa Rosa Ave., Santa Rosa, 585-2616.
Part art installation, part wine tasting room hub, part garden and part restaurant, it’s an amazing Wine Country destination that’s finally finding its groove. T
The walk-up eatery will be open from 4p.m. to 7p.m.(ish) Thursday through Sundays through October. And if you’re wondering how 7p.m. is actually “after hours”, remember we’re in Wine Country, where many wineries are dark by 4:30p.m. Reisenman runs Park 121 cafe, grill and market daily from 10a.m. to 5p.m. at the gardens.
The 9th annual Taste of Petaluma kicks off on Saturday, Aug. 23 with more than 50 restaurants, chefs, food purveyors, wineries and breweries taking part.
Every year, BiteClub gets a taste of something new happening in southern Sonoma County at this event, and this year is no exception. We’re especially excited about newcomers Free Range Provisions & Eats,Red Boy Pizza, Secret Kitchen (a Biteclub fave!), Native Kitchen, Jezebel Donuterie,Roast and Vine, Thistle Meats and Zodiac.
Sheesh, where was I when all these new spots opened? Get your taste of Petaluma from 11:30a.m. to 4p.m., $40, details at tasteofpetaluma.org.
Farm to Fermentation Festival Sunday, August 24, 2014
We’re gaga for fermented foods—meaning everything from chocolate, wine, cheese, beer, pickles, to lesser known goodies like water kefir, kombucha and beet kvass.
Which is why we’re always first in line at the annual Farm to Fermentation Festival (Aug. 24, 11a.m. to 5p.m.) organized by the always-incredible fermentation-cheerleader Jennifer Harris.
This year’s event includes a DIY pickle station, fermented root beer float bar, a kraut-off, cheese pairing with Madame de Fromage, 20-plus classes and 45 vendors (including beer, hard cider and mead-tasting).
Get the details and tickets online at farmtofermentation.com. Santa Rosa Finley Community Center, 2060 W. College Ave., Santa Rosa.
