Bird and The Bottle, a new Stark Reality Restaurant in Santa Rosa, CA
Join us on Tuesday, Oct. 20 at 5PM for a live cocktail chat at Bird and The Bottle.
Set a reminder to come back here and join us for (virtual) cocktails and a Q&A with Mark and Terri Stark.
In total 17 Wine Country Restaurants were tapped, with newcomers Diavola (finally), La Perla (wow–meaning we have TWO Peruvian restaurants in Santa Rosa that are winners) and Ramen Gaijin (yay!).
Falling off the list: Hotbox Grill, which shuttered, C Casa, La Salette, The Girl and the Fig and Willi’s Wine Bar.
It’s a huge feather in the caps of moderately-priced restaurants (ie: the ones most of us can actually afford) and a definite pathway to the stars. Bib Gourmands are NOT eligible for stars.
“Moishe and I are just honored to be in such great company and want to thank our crew, present and past for all the hard work this past year. The real challenge now is improving and staying on this list for the years to come,” said Chef Matthew Williams of Ramen Gaijin.
This year’s 2016 Bib Gourmand winners for Wine Country include:
Christopher Long of Libations Unlimited is a roving bartender who brings his drinks to various locations working from a teardrop trailer in Sonoma and Napa counties. (photo by Conner Jay)
Heritage Public House in Santa Rosa has closed. Photo HPH Facebook Page.
Heritage Public House (1901 Mendocino Ave, Santa Rosa) has shuttered, effective immediately.
According to proprietor Dino D’Argenzio, the turnover of the kitchen and management to restaurateur Josh Silvers in April 2015, “didn’t fit” and the parties have ended the relationship on a “friendly note”. Several months ago, BiteClub tasted through the menu, which was impressive, but recently was cut back significantly.
“It’s disappointing it didn’t work out,” said Silvers. “The team was really gelling. I’m hopeful in this time of employee deficits they will get snapped up fast,” he added. Silvers is the owner of Jackson’s Bar and Oven and does frequent restaurant consulting.
Bloodline Brewing Co., which launched at the restaurant in 2014 and was a significant part of their tap program will continue brewing offsite and focus on increased distribution throughout the Bay Area. Bloodline is co-owned by several members of the D’Argenzio family.
The Heritage Public House building is available for lease, and D’Argenzio said he has some “exciting prospects”.
“We’d like to take this opportunity to sincerely thank the community for supporting us over the last four years. It has been a pleasure getting to know you, serving you and being a part of the vibrant SRJC neighborhood,” said D’Argenzio on the Heritage Public House Facebook page.
An apple orchard isn’t the kind of place you usually find an artisan salsa that makes all salsas seem pale in comparison.
But that’s how it happened.
Part of a fancy snack spread my friends had set out for us volunteer apple pickers was Primavera Roasted Tomato Chipotle Salsa with tortilla chips.
At first it was just mindless hunger driving me to stuff my face with this smoky, roasty salsa. Then, paired with ice cold hard cider, it was a revelation.
Then it just got plain embarrassing as I double and triple dipped, with red drips staining the front of my shirt. Hiding my gluttony was pointless, so I smuggled out the rest of it in my bag. I figured I’d earned it.
This is no mass-production salsa, but a well-honed recipe from the kitchens of Karen Waikiki, the owner Sonoma’s El Molino Central and Primavera foods.
A longtime friend of Mexican cooking authority Diana Kennedy and Alice Waters, she’s made it her mission to revitalize the art of making stone-ground corn tortillas and sharing traditional Mexican recipes using local produce.
It’s not always easy to find, and you’ll spend a little more than a simple pico de gallo, but even Michelle Tam of Nom Nom Paleo is a fan, calling this salsa, “the best g******* salsa around.”
Primavera Roasted Tomato Salsa with chipotle, $5.99, Oliver’s Markets.
Cucina Paradiso will be expanding to Santa Rosa in fall 2015. Photo: Foursquare
Cucina Paradiso is coming to Santa Rosa.
The much-loved Petaluma Italian restaurant is slated to open a second restaurant later this fall, according to owner Dennis Hernandez. The restaurateur took over Roberto’s Trattoria Lupoon Sonoma Hwy. in August 2015, with plans to reopen in early November.
The menu will be similar to the Petaluma restaurant, which has been a longtime Michelin Bib Gourmand.
Chef Angelo Cucco will take over the kitchen, a longtime SF chef and pal of Dennis.
Less than 10 years ago, you could drive through Sebastopol in the fall and see tons and tons of apples rotting on the ground. Sonoma County’s iconic Gravensteins were in danger of disappearing, and the few remaining orchardists struggled to find a market for their apples. Entire apple orchards were ripped out and replaced with vineyards.
Hard cider is changing that dismal landscape, radically.
These days, the remaining orchards are becoming coveted sources for heirloom apples, and seasoned apple farmers are becoming mentors to a new generation of cider makers cropping up throughout Sonoma County. And whether they’re using estate apples, mixing West County apples from a variety locations or importing juice from the Pacific Northwest, all of their beverages have a definite North Bay twist.
As the weather begs for a warm fire and a cold cider, we’ve found some local favorites and got the goods on their new fall releases, which will hit local stores and restaurants throughout the late fall.
Here are our picks for the Best Sonoma Hard Ciders for fall 2015
Hops & Honey Cider, Horse & Plow: Although it’s rather unconventional in the traditional cider industry, lots of new cider makers are adding a bit of hoppiness to their brews, adding a level of complexity and giving them a crossover appeal to craft brew drinkers. Sebastopol winemakers Chris Condos and Suzanne Hagins have made artisan cider making part of their Horse & Plow wine business, with new Hops & Honey releases joining their Farmhouse and Heirloom ciders.
The Anvil, Sonoma Cider: A father-son team is making some of the most buzzed-about ciders in Healdsburg. Classic Dry Zider is a winner in the Reserve series, aged in Zinfandel barrels, while limited releases such as the recent habanero-lime cider are less classic. Our favorite, however, remains The Anvil. Here, apple meets bourbon; deliciousness ensues.
This spirited cider pairs sweet apples with the smokiness of bourbon (sans actual bourbon). Flavor? Full.
Coming soon: Dry Fuji, a “special reserve bottling” of dry fuji pear cider, and Imperial Reserve, a high-alcohol cider that’s packed with organic brown sugar, whiskey barrel fermented and aged to perfection.
2013 Barred Rock Barrel Aged Cider, Tilted Shed Cider: Aged in Tennessee bourbon barrels, this cider gets better with age. Late season Sonoma County heirloom and cider apples slowly fermented, then aged for three months in, did we mention, bourbon barrels. Coming soon: Like all of the ciders made in Windsor by Scott Heath and Ellen Cavalli, there’s a fascinating back story behind the releases: bacon smoke, “sidra” (Basque-style) cider and “lost” varietals. Sloe cider was the result of a collaboration with Spirit Works Distillery, and along with the annual releases of Graviva!, Smoked, Lost Orchard, Inclinado and Barred Rock, they’ll launch a club for rare and unusual releases this fall.
Black Jack 21, Ace Cider: Ace started the cider craze 21 years ago in Sonoma County, and they’re still making some of the most popular ciders in America. Though fruitier flavors like pineapple, berry and pumpkin, this dry reserve bottling is the champagne of ciders. Coming soon: Space Bloody Orange, a limited release apple cider infused with blood oranges.
Cidre Noir, Devoto: Only the most “charismatic” of apples goes into this velvet cape of a cider. Sweeter “black” varietals hang until late season, soaking up sweetness, then mix with a smattering of tart for a dry but rich pour. The Devoto family still farms 50+ heirloom apple varieties on their 26-acre Sebastopol farm.
Golden State Cider, Devoto’s second brand, comes in easy-drinking cans and is barn-storming the cider field. Made with West Coast apples, it’s an approachable Friday night kind of cider that’s dry and food friendly.
Foxcraft, Cranberry Cider: ’Tis the season to think berry. This easy-drinking cider gets juiced with cranberry for some tart/sweet holiday fizz. The Santa Rosa company ramps up this holiday-friendly flavor in October, but Apple Blossom, Pear and Blood Orange round out their flavor lineup.
All of these ciders also are available locally at Bottle Barn, 3331 Industrial Drive, Santa Rosa, 528-1161, and can frequently be found at Whole Foods and Oliver’s Markets.
Best places to find local ciders on tap and otherwise:
Many craft brewers offer great food along with their beer. (Photo by Conner Jay)
We all know the old adage that it takes a lot of beer to make good wine.
These days, there are about two dozen craft breweries around Sonoma County, including Russian River Brewing Co., home of the world’s best brew, according to readers of the trade publication Beer Advocate.
Along with this embarrassment of riches, there are now 10 gastropubs serving elevated pub cuisine worthy of the world-class brews produced on the premises. It’s a rare confluence of great food and beer, tapped at the same source.
Many craft brewers offer great food along with their beer. (Photo by Conner Jay)
“A place where you can get the whole package is special,” said Morgan Marshall, general manager of Fogbelt Brewing Company in Santa Rosa. “Our philosophy is, if you make things in-house, it’s better.”
Though they come from the wine world, Fogbelt owners Remy Martin and Paul Hawley have been making beer since 2004. They opened Fogbelt in February 2014, and the pub has been packing them in for happy hour ever since, with plans to expand its kitchen and brewing facility this fall.
Reflecting the DIY spirit of its nano-brewery, Fogbelt makes its own bread and butter pickles to serve alongside sandwiches such as the Smoked Tri-Tip Philly with Provolone and Horseradish Cream. The Spicy Turkey Sandwich with Smoky Hobbs Bacon, Pickled Onions and Sriracha Cream Cheese got a nod this year at the annual Battle of the Brews event, which crowned it “Best Cold Sandwich.”
Other tempting menu items created by executive chef Shawn Page, formerly of Willi’s Seafood & Raw Bar in Healdsburg, include beer-poached sausages from the Sonoma County Meat Co. of Santa Rosa, served with an array of DIY toppings; and a Butcher’s Board menu serving artisan products like Hobb’s Applewood Smoked Tavern Ham and Humboldt Fog goat cheese.
At Heritage Public House in Santa Rosa, owners Dino and Roman D’Argenzio recently hired chef Josh Silvers of Jackson’s Bar & Oven in Santa Rosa to manage the pub and revamp the menu. That has enabled them to focus on Bloodline Brewing Co. beers, including a seasonal brew made on-site. Silvers has elevated the lineup of traditional pub grub by adding beer-friendly salads like Spinach, Bacon & Mushroom and veggie entrees such as Black Barley “Risotto.”
“Barley is the heart of beer, so we bring it around,” he said.
“Beer evokes the feeling of hanging out in the backyard with friends,” Silvers added, and in the hot harvest season, this easy way of eating fits like a glove.
From cherry varieties paired with panna cotta and a late-harvest Chardonnay to heirloom beauties featured in a stacked salad, tomatoes have a role in dishes ranging from appetizers to dessert. (Photo by Chris Hardy)
On a visit to the newly expanded gardens at Kendall-Jackson Wine Estate just north of Santa Rosa, you might find culinary gardens director Tucker Taylor juggling some very interesting things this late summer. Tim’s Black Ruffles. Grandfather Ashlock. Candy’s Old Yellow, Serendipity Striped and neon green, radish-shaped Michael Pollan.
No, it’s not a vaudeville show, but a collection of boutique tomato varieties, newly introduced for this year’s Kendall-Jackson Heirloom Tomato Festival. As the former master gardener for the French Laundry, Taylor is an expert on the magical — and sometimes bizarre — bounty of Mother Nature.
Appointed with producing more than 8,000 pounds of fruit in some 175 varieties from the winery’s Fulton estate and Geyserville gardens, Taylor has a simple suggestion for guests at the 19th annual walk-around food and wine tasting on the winery lawns on Sept. 26.
“It really comes down to one’s personal preference on what they like in a tomato,” he says. “I suggest trying them all.”
It’s a delicious assignment. All the luscious fruit is presented under a big tent for tasting your way through and discovering how tomatoes like Brandywine and Blue Berries actually taste like their namesake. For more temptation, there are also more than 50 notable local chefs cooking away, challenged to create recipes like previous years’ tomato cotton candy, tomato macaroons, tomato crème brûlée, and sparkling tomato water glittering with cucumber “pearls.”
Who will win the coveted People’s Choice Award for best dish? Last year, it was Nectar restaurant at the Hilton Sonoma Wine Country hotel, wowing with lobster, smoked mozzarella and tomato arancini. Competition will be fierce, with top restaurants participating, like Applewood Inn, Costeaux French Bakery, Earth’s Bounty Kitchen & Wine Bar, Epicurean Connection, Jackson’s Bar & Oven, John Ash & Co., and Tony’s North Beach/Graton Casino.
As some 2,600 attendees snack and sip, they can cheer on the Chef Challenge competitors in a cook-off pitting K-J executive chef Justin Wangler against two-Michelin-star chef and “Top Chef Master” Season 5 winner Douglas Keane; former “Top Chef” and “Top Chef All-Stars” contestant Casey Thompson; and former “Top Chef Masters” Season 5 contestant Sang Yoon. The talented contenders will whip up masterpieces featuring heirloom tomatoes along with a basket of mystery ingredients.
Besides eating, drinking and dancing to live music, guests can feel good knowing the event benefits Ceres Community Project, which provides free or low-cost healthy meals to community residents dealing with serious illness. The meals are prepared by 14- to 19-year-olds who volunteer as the program’s gardeners and chefs — aspiring culinary pros who someday may also be juggling Tim’s Black Ruffles.
The living room’s retro orange chairs and Danish BoConcept sleeper sofa surround a coffee table designed by Charles and Ray Eames. (Photo by Rebecca Chotkowski)
One man’s wish to own a stunning home built into a mountain comes true.
Matthew Tudor-Jackson affectionately calls his new home “the lair.” He refers to that certain James Bond mystique surrounding his masculine hideaway, set on the lip of a mountain with a wing-like roof that makes it appear as if it could soar over the forested canyon beyond like a large raptor.
While it seems like it’s hundreds of miles off the grid in some ruggedly exotic locale patrolled by eagles, this house is just a 12-minute drive from a Safeway store. And Tudor-Jackson is no villain evading the law, but an artist and designer with a reverence for the warm, free-flowing architecture of Frank Lloyd Wright.
The organic materials, an economic use of space and a deliberate harmony with its natural surroundings captivated Tudor-Jackson the first time he saw this ivy-cloaked house hiding in Los Alamos Canyon, near Santa Rosa’s Hood Mountain.
“When I first came up here I totally fell in love,” he said. “You feel like you’re completely out in the boonies, like you’re going to run into a moose.”
It was no coincidence that the house, to Tudor-Jackson’s eye, had a come-hither look. The two-bedroom, two-bath home was designed by Gary Tucker. As a young student of architecture at UC Berkeley in the 1950s, Tucker spent a year as an apprentice at Wright’s headquarters in Wisconsin and Arizona, Taliesin East and West.
Tucker was turned on to Wright, regarded by the American Institute of Architects as the greatest U.S. architect of all time, when he was a high school student in Southern California.
“I was sitting in the waiting room of a doctor’s office and picked up a copy of some home magazine and there was a freshly minted picture of Fallingwater in Pennsylvania,” Tucker said, referring to the home breathtakingly cantilevered over a waterfall that is one of Wright’s most recognizable works. “I saw that house and decided that’s what I wanted to be. I spent a lot of time in the library reading up on his work and finally decided after I graduated that I would go and interview with him.”
Apprentices met directly with the master, who by then was at the end of his life. Wright died a year after Tucker completed his internship in 1958.
“You interviewed with Mr. Wright and if he liked what he saw in you and your work, you were accepted,” Tucker recalled. “He was so brilliant as a designer that for young architectural students who were inclined to that kind of work, it was nirvana working with him.”
Tucker went on to establish his own practice in Marin County before moving north in 1977 to Sonoma County. He designed many homes in breathtaking locations with dramatic geometric lines. For a home at Timber Cove, he created a long, narrow walkway that cantilevers in a heart-stopping way, out over the rocky cliff. A house on a golf course in Santa Rosa has curvaceous walls and pyramid roofs.
The rear of the home has a massive deck called The Prow, which is cantilevered out from the mountainside, as well as a swimming pool.
He relishes the challenge of difficult sites, as was the case with the property in Los Alamos Canyon, where Tucker chose to build his own live-work dream house in 1984.
“Basically, the intent was to make something that was totally in agreement with the beautiful setting, which meant a partially subterranean house dug into the hillside and opening out to big panoramic views on both sides,” he said.
The site was so steep that Tucker enlisted MKM & Associates in Santa Rosa to draw up plans, which called for bolting the house into a cement block, itself bolted into the mountain with steel and concrete piers.
“There’s nothing more boring than a flat piece of dirt,” said Tucker, 83.
He designed a 1,750-square-foot house that served his and his wife’s needs, with nothing superfluous.
“Our budget was restricted and we didn’t have any kids. We could make it into an adult’s environment and kept it compact for that purpose,” he said.
There is a cathedral-like quality to the design, with a central living room and kitchen under a 16-foot-high gabled roof with a rounded skylight along the spine. The two interior spaces are separated only by a formidable fireplace of red-brick blocks with ceramic brick facing. Two wings extend in either direction, like transepts from the nave of a church. On either side is a bedroom and bath, although one of the rooms served as Tucker’s work nook.
In keeping with Wright’s design principles, Tucker made use of different ceiling heights to create distinct spaces while keeping everything open. The bedroom and office ceilings drop to a cozy 8 feet.
Tucker continued to live and work at the Los Alamos Canyon house until age and a mild case of Parkinson’s disease made it too difficult for him to manage the steep slope and many steps. He moved to Oakmont and put his house on the market.
When Tudor-Jackson first saw the home, it seemed as if the forest had reclaimed it. Tucker had designed a living roof and planted ivy, but the vines had all but covered the structure. A long series of steps leads down to the front door from a parking terrace. Looking down from above, it appears like a hobbit house snuggled into the earth.
Tudor-Jackson and his spouse, Douglas Atkin, who works for Airbnb, were living in San Francisco and in the process of giving up a 200-year-old farmhouse and estate in upstate New York when Tudor-Jackson felt a pull back to the country.
An Eames chair offers a perfect reading spot in the master bedroom.
It was a chance stay at an Occidental Airbnb cottage owned by Virginia Rago, a project planner and designer, that drew him to Sonoma. He returned to the cottage several times and the two became friends. At one point he told Rago, “I have to live in Sonoma County someday.”
“I went onto Zillow and for six months every morning I’d spend my coffee time looking all over California for just a cabin in the woods somewhere,” Tudor-Jackson said. “And then I saw how much property cost in California and I got really discouraged.”
In all that time, the only listing he bookmarked was an intriguing house in rural Santa Rosa. But when Tudor-Jackson called to inquire, it was already under contract for sale. He arranged to see it anyway, selling himself as a potential backup if the deal fell through. The day he met Gary Tucker at the house in December 2013 was the very day escrow closed on his 200-acre farm in New York, leaving him feeling both wistful and hopeful.
“When I was standing outside with Gary, I don’t know what it was, but we really connected,” Tudor-Jackson remembered. “Here he had designed and built it himself and lived in it for 30 years. I expressed to him how I understand what that means and that although it was already in contract, I reassured him — telling him it was going to be mine and that I’m going to take the best care of it in the world and love every corner of it.”
The next day the first offer fell through. The house was Tudor’s for $700,000. But until escrow closed on Jan. 31, 2014, he was “manically obsessed.”
“There wasn’t a day I wouldn’t look at a picture of the house and say, ‘You’re going to be mine,’” he said.
He immediately set to work restoring it, enlisting Rago to help. With a math degree from Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute in Troy, N.Y., she has a mind for engineering and construction challenges and even knew some of the contractors who had worked on other Gary Tucker homes.
“My heart is in the structure. I do furnishings, but that’s not my love,” Rago said. “My love is in the lines and making it work, making it flow. This is not a house you can show to just anyone and say, ‘Help us fix it.’ Most people don’t understand how it’s put together. But we were able to find the people who had worked on it.”
Tudor-Jackson’s work, nonetheless, has been mainly cosmetic, intended only to enhance what is already there. He cut back the overgrown ivy to reveal the striking geometry of the house. He replaced the ivy on the roof with a planting of wildflowers. Indoors, he applied beeswax, orange oil and a steam mop to bring out the beautiful grains of the woodwork. Rather than replace the studio tile, he meticulously brought it back to life with a wire brush. One of the few changes he made was to rip up the shag carpet and replace the concrete floor underneath with brick-shaped African black slate.
Tudor-Jackson (in blue shirt) and his spouse, Douglas Atkin, enjoy the outdoors with their dogs, Sir Oliver and Lady Margaret.
The furnishings, including an Eames coffee table and chair, also speak to the modern period. Tudor-Jackson’s pride and joy is his dining room set, a 1966 design by modernist Vladimir Kagan that was featured on “Star Trek.” He found it at a consignment shop in Marin and loves the fact that they were born in the same year.
His most recent project was a complete renovation of the swimming pool. It now has Mediterranean-blue plastering and is tiled with black slate that matches the redone flooring indoors.
Tudor-Jackson still makes his primary home in San Francisco and rents his “lair” on Airbnb when he’s not inhabiting it himself. He made Tucker’s desk into a daybed for guests, and the living room couch converts into a queen-size bed. It’s not the kind of house, he said, that is simply a spot to alight after flitting among restaurants and wineries. Mostly, whether he’s there alone with his two little hounds, Lady Margaret and Sir Oliver, or with friends, they all hunker down like summer camp. “We’re here. We dive into the pool and when we go out, we go hiking and then we come back and dive into the pool.”
Although there is more work ahead to preserve and restore Tucker’s dream home, Tudor-Jackson vows to never touch the architecture itself.
“I’m going to restore it like someone would clean a fine painting or revive a fresco,” he declared. “To me, it’s like a sacred art piece.”