Page 200 – Sonoma Magazine

Santa Rosa’s Left Edge Theatre Performs Provocative Work About the First Thanksgiving

November 2020

By Karen Kizer

What’s a playwright to do when theater groups say they can’t produce your plays because they can’t find Native American actors for the Native American roles you’ve written? For writer Larissa FastHorse, the answer was easy.

She penned “The Thanksgiving Play” — a play about a play of the first Thanksgiving, in which all the characters are … white.

What could possibly be awkward about that? As it turns out, all 90 minutes of it. And American theater audiences are eating it up.

In one of the most performed plays of the year, FastHorse — a member of the Sicangu Lakota Nation and a 2020 MacArthur Foundation “genius grant” winner — lampoons “performative white wokeness” via her story of four white theater artists devising a school play to honor Indigenous people. The progressive characters’ careful-not-to-offend sensibilities leads their fictional group to omit Native American characters from their play altogether. Hilarity and horror ensue, all told through language of great white guilt and more than a dash of discomfort.

Santa Rosa’s acclaimed Left Edge Theatre company is producing the play live via Zoom just in time for the holiday — yes, the very same one with the turkey, stuffing, and problematic history.

“The play’s conceit is very funny and clever, but also subversive,” says Left Edge Theatre Artistic Director Argo Thompson. That’s a good match for a troupe whose mission is to produce new, lesser-known works that are both “left and edgy.”

The show was picked last fall for Left Edge’s current season by the company’s own audience. In an innovative tactic to engage with their patrons, the Left Edge team presents a showcase of scenes from 10 plays as possibilities for the upcoming season, and the audience votes on a lineup of five to produce at full length. “

Glen Ellen resident and local theater critic Jeanie K. Smith is switching up her typical role to direct “The Thanksgiving Play.” Smith has been interested in FastHorse’s work since she reviewed a production of her play “Cow Pie Bingo” in 2018.

“‘Cow Pie Bingo’ was so quirky, sweet, funny, and smart,” says Smith. “When I read ‘The Thanksgiving Play,’ I thought, ‘This is brilliant — insanely good.’” Smith has always had a taste for theater that pushes the envelope. She wrote a doctoral dissertation on feminist performance art of the ’70s and ’80s, which she describes as “so fabulously different and political, intriguing and weird.” She has also worked in and enjoyed another form of courageous theater: being a drama teacher for middle schoolers.

Consistent through her roles — from scholar to teacher to critic — is her belief that good theater is “its own consciousness-raising event” and “has the power to create better human beings.”

And while “The Thanksgiving Play” has gotten some criticism for the lack of solutions it presents, Smith rejects the idea, believing the problem-solving falls on the viewer.

“The play is just the beginning,” she says, referencing a FastHorse interview. It’s in the new perspectives and conversations that happen after the show where the “messy” work of meaningful change happens.

Larissa FastHorse’s The Thanksgiving Play from Left Edge Theatre, streaming live November 6-15 and on demand November 16-29. Tickets $10-$30. 707-546-3600 or leftedgetheatre.com/tickets.

Best Sonoma Wineries to Visit This Winter

November 2020

By Jean Saylor Doppenberg

Tasting area at Dutcher Crossing winery in Geyserville. (Dutcher Crossing)

Aperture Cellars

Winemaker Jesse Katz has an impressive resume, capped by the opening of a beautiful new facility where he can show off his skills. Plenty of outdoor and indoor spaces allow for intimate tasting experiences to enjoy Katz’s portfolio of fine wines, such as Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chenin Blanc, and a Bordeaux-style red blend of Malbec and Merlot.

Katz has experience working at Petrus in Bordeaux, and also in Argentina. Closer to home, he had a hand in the production of Screaming Eagle wines in Napa Valley and at Lancaster Estate in Sonoma County.

He sources his fruit for the Aperture label, which was under development for 11 years, from approximately 140 acres of vineyards in Sonoma County, including 32 planted acres on the estate site.

The new 4,000-square-foot tasting room, which opened earlier this year, takes advantage of natural light and has a gallery-inspired atmosphere.

A collection of photographs taken around the world by Katz’s father, renowned photographer Andy Katz, surround visitors. The outdoor terrace overlooks the estate vineyards, facing west toward the Russian River, and the indoor spaces include vineyard views through floor-to-ceiling windows.

“We are delighted to show guests and friends a transportive hospitality experience,” explains Jesse. “This new space is stunning — it’s the Aperture story in building form.”

At press time, Aperture was offering two tasting experiences: the Soil Series tasting ($50) featuring Bordeaux-inspired blends, and the Site Series ($75) showcasing the vineyards of Alexander Valley, with wines produced from single-vineyard locations.

12291 Old Redwood Highway, Healdsburg, 707-200-7891, aperture-cellars.com. By appointment only; reservations available online.

Dutcher Crossing Winery

Dutcher Crossing has a long legacy of making exceptional wines, and under the ownership of proprietor Debra Mathy and the winemaking expertise of Nick Briggs, the winery has expanded production from five wines to more than 30. Seated tastings by appointment ($35) last about 90 minutes. “We’re planning special varietal or vintage weekends for the holiday months, where we present a different wine flight from the regular tasting that focuses on one varietal or one vintage, and even a barrel tasting opportunity,” says manager Miranda Hagedorn.

8533 Dry Creek Road, Geyserville, 707-431-2700, dutchercrossingwinery.com

Flanagan Wines

Eric Flanagan planted his first vineyard almost 20 years ago in Bennett Valley, which yielded 150 cases of Cabernet Sauvignon. He later added Syrah to the label, then Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Flanagan sources his grapes from vineyards he owns around the region, including Platt Ranch in Bodega and Gap’s View in the Petaluma Gap AVA. The label also bottles a Viognier made from Bennett Valley AVA fruit, and a Merlot. The by-appointment-only tasting experience ($40) is available three times per day and lasts 60 to 90 minutes.

435 W. Dry Creek Road, Healdsburg, 707-723-8800, flanaganwines.com

Fog Crest Vineyard

James and Rosalind Manoogian developed a fascination with great wine when James was a restaurateur in San Francisco. The couple found a 30-acre parcel in Sonoma County in 1997, and their grapegrowing and winemaking adventure was underway. Rosalind Manoogian reports that their tasting room has been “very busy” since reopening. “A few days ago we had more reservations than we’ve ever had. Our visitor numbers are basically the same as last year at this time.”

7606 Occidental Road, Sebastopol, 707-829-2006, fogcrestvineyard.com

Goldschmidt Vineyards

The Pour House is the first tasting room to spotlight Goldschmidt wines, and it’s also a collective of three family-operated wineries (the others are Optima and Lago di Merlo). Winemaker Nick Goldschmidt has a portfolio of several labels, having been in the wine business for many years and in many places, including Chile and New Zealand. Goldschmidt received two gold medals in the 2020 North Coast Wine Challenge, for Cabernet and Chardonnay. A flight of four tastes is $10.

4791 Dry Creek Road, Healdsburg, 707-433-0100, thepourhouse707.com, goldschmidtvineyards.com

Hanna Winery

Hanna may be best known for winemaker Jeff Hinchliffe’s perennially award-winning Sauvignon Blanc, but he also produces Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, Malbec, and many others. The winery was founded by heart surgeon Dr. Elias Hanna and is now run by his daughter Christine Hanna. Take in the spectacular Alexander Valley scenery with tastings from $35 to $45, or visit the Russian River Valley location adjacent to the winery’s production hub, with tastings starting at $30.

9280 Highway 128, Healdsburg, 707-431-4310; and 5353 Occidental Road, Santa Rosa, 707-575-3371, hannawinery.com

Highway 12 Vineyards & Winery

Friends and winemakers Michael Sebastiani and Paul Giusto founded this label together several years ago, focusing on Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, and Pinot Noir. (They also bottle the Highwayplanted man and Carneros Highway labels.) Their flagship Bordeaux-style blend is made with equal parts Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and Merlot.

23564 Arnold Drive, Sonoma (at Cornerstone Sonoma), 707-935-8815, highway12winery.com

Imagery Estate Winery

Joe Benziger founded Imagery Estate more than three decades ago, and today his daughter Jamie is winemaker, producing Viognier, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, and Tempranillo. More unusual Albariño and Lagrein may also be on the tasting menu ($30 for five tastes). “Guests who come for a seated tasting during the holiday months will get a bonus pour of our newly released sparkling brut rosé,” says Hilary Clair, tasting room manager. Imagery was awarded several gold medals at the 2020 North Coast Wine Challenge, including for its Malbec and its ‘Tusca Brava’ red blend.

14335 Sonoma Highway, Glen Ellen, 877-550-4278, imagerywinery.com

Larson Family Winery

More than 10 varietals are bottled at this 5,000-case winery, which sits on land that has been in the Larson family since 1877. The Larsons initially raised cattle and ponies here; the first grapevines were in the 1970s. They are known for excellent Pinot Grigio, Malbec, Pinot Noir, Syrah, Tempranillo, Chardonnay, and Gewürztraminer. The family’s Pinot received a gold medal in the 2020 North Coast Wine Challenge. In a tribute to their winery dogs, they also bottle ‘Three Lab Cab’ and ‘Three Lab Chard.’

23355 Millerick Road, Sonoma, 707-938-3031, larsonfamilywinery.com

Mayo Family Winery

Founded in 1994, the winery owned and operated by the Mayo family produces more than 20 different single-vineyard wines every year. The tasting choices can range from sparklers and Chardonnay to Pinot Noir and Zinfandel. The main tasting room in Glen Ellen is open daily; the Reserve Room has a food-pairing focus, and reservations are required. President Jeffrey Mayo says visitors during the holiday months can expect to sip at least two new sparkling releases. “We’ll be pouring our 2012 reserve brut and the 2015 regular brut,” he explains. “Both are Chardonnay and Pinot blends, and they are delicate, fruity, and incredible.”

13101 Arnold Drive, Glen Ellen, 707-938-9401; and the Reserve Room, 9200 Sonoma Highway, Kenwood, 707-833-5504, mayofamilywinery.com

Seghesio Family Vineyards

Five generations of the Seghesio family have farmed grapes and bottled fine wine over the past 125 years, a legacy that’s hard to match elsewhere in Sonoma County. They produce Zinfandel, Chardonnay, a white wine made from Vermentino grapes, and such Italian heritage varietals as Aglianico and Barbera. “Venom” is the name of their 100% Sangiovese. The classic seated tasting ($25) features a flight of current release Zinfandels and Italian varietals.

700 Grove St., Healdsburg, 707-433-3579, seghesio.com

Wilson of Dry Creek

The Wilson family made their bones at this winery, one of several they own and operate in Sonoma and Mendocino counties. They know what they’re doing: this winery picked up 18 gold medals at the 2020 San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition and many more golds at the 2020 North Coast Wine Challenge. Wilson specializes in Zinfandel and also bottles Petite Sirah, Sauvignon Blanc, and Chardonnay. A signature deck tasting includes a flight of four wines served at a private table ($25, by appointment only).

1960 Dry Creek Road, Healdsburg, 707-433-4355, wilsonwinery.com

8 Indie Wineries to Check Out in Sonoma

November 2020

By Linda Murphy

Flying mostly under radar, there are dozens of Sonoma wineries making micro-amounts of wine — many without high-tech production facilities or tasting rooms, selling directly to the public. Here are eight worth seeking out.

Caleb Leisure Wines

Many visitors to the Republic of Georgia return home to rave about the wines and the novelty of them being fermented in clay pots buried in the ground. Winemakers around the world experiment with in-ground clay vessels, but Sonoma’s Caleb Leisure might be the only one in the US to use authentic qvevri from Georgia, costing thousands of dollars each. Not an oak barrel in sight. The oval-shaped qvevri are lined with beeswax and are stored in a Sonoma Mountain hillside, behind Coturri Winery. Leisure was lured to winemaking specifically by the natural, sulfur-free qvevri method, and in 2017, began fermenting Viognier, Sauvignon Blanc, Syrah, Mourvedre and other grapes underground. He’s up to 1,000 cases of natural wines a year, with more story behind them that marketers can’t buy. The wines are unfiltered, keeping with the natural theme, yet remarkably bright.

calebleisurewines.com

Enriquez Family Wines

Cecilia Enriquez’s father, Eduardo, was intrigued by the wine business; she was not impressed working for a bank and agreed to help him. Cecilia was 22 when she discovered Sonoma, and it became the place she and her New Jersey family would purchase vineyard land and start their brand in 2011. Now the proprietor and president of the company, Cecilia works with her winemaker husband, Dana von Sternberg (Vokel Cellars), at their rustic barn winery in Forestville. Among her unusual wines: aged (and brilliant) dry Muscat and a Brisa white blend from Russian River Valley, and two Tempranillos from the Petaluma Gap. The Forestville estate vineyard is prominently Pinot Noir and is another, more traditional focus for Enriquez.

enriquezwines.com

Idle Cellars

Berkeley resident Ari Heavner and Southern Californian Ben Larks connected in 2006 while working harvest in Sonoma. Soon thereafter, they founded Idle Cellars and are going strong, 13 years later. They took the classic California winemaking path, producing micro-lots of Grenache Blanc, Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and other wines, from such Sonoma vineyards as Los Chamizal in Sonoma Valley, Mounts in Dry Creek Valley, Peaceland in the Fountaingrove District and Catherine Bonneau in Los Carneros. Heavner and Larks own no vineyards nor winemaking equipment, employing a custom-rush facility and doing all the work themselves. The brand name comes from the idle time the friends enjoy, drinking wine with family and friends.

idlecellars.com

Jolie-Laide Wines

Restaurateur Scott Schultz transitioned to winemaking in 2007, working for Pax Mahle, among others. His personal label, Jolie-Laide (it loosely translates to “beautiful-ugly,” reflects his choice of unglamorous grape varieties, among them Melon de Bourgone, Valdigue and Trousseau Gris. Like many independents, Schultz sources fruit from within and outside Sonoma, including Mendocino, Monterey and El Dorado counties. Some of his whites are given some skin contact during fermentation, adding richness and texture; the Trousseau Gris from Peter Fanucchi’s Russian River Valley vineyard is a fine example.

jolielaidewines.com

Martha Stoumen Wines

Stoumen makes her wines at Pax Mahle Winery at The Barlow in Sebastopol and has earned an avid following for what she doesn’t do to the juice. She is a local face for natural wines, those produced with as little human intervention as possible. That means organically grown grapes, no commercial yeasts for fermentation, and little, if any, post-fermentation stabilizers or enzymes. The Sebastopol native does add small amounts of sulfur as a preservative, but the goal is for her wines reflect the place they were grown, without masking the character with additives. Her Nero d’Avola comes from the warm interior of Mendocino County. There is also a sparkling Zinfandel, unusual blends and a more traditionally styled Petite Sirah. Like many “natural’ wines (there is no official definition for the term), a Stoumen wine occasionally has a funky note, and she’s OK with that.

marthastoumen.com

Raft Wines

Jennifer Reichardt grew up on her family’s duck farm near Petaluma. Her father, Jim Reichhardt, established the Liberty Duck brand, prized by chefs everywhere. Jennifer is now chief operating officer of the company and makes time to produce Raft Wines – a raft is a group of ducks – for which she sources Picpoul Blanc and Grenache Blanc from El Dorado County, Counoise and Viognier from Madera County, and Syrah from Sonoma. Low alcohol levels and food-friendliness are her mantras – particularly if they match with Liberty Duck. Being around wine and wineries via the food industry, Jennifer made what she calls an easy transition to working her first harvest in 2011 and launched Raft in 2016.

drink.raft.wine

Rootdown Wine Cellars

From an enclave of winemaking stalls on Hassett Lane in Geyserville, Mike Lucia makes Rootdown wines, taking it from a side project to a full-time business in 2016. Lucia focuses on varietals such as Chenin Blanc, Grenache Blanc, Pinot Blanc, Trousseau and Mourvedre. Sonoma and Mendocino Counties are the primary sources for Rootdown grapes, and Lucia produces the wines as naturally as possible, using native yeasts, no new oak, and limited sulfur. The wines are racy and low in alcohol, crisp and refreshing rather than fruity and ripe. In late 2019, Lucia acquired the 150-acre Cole Ranch in a shockingly cool pocket of land near Ukiah, planted to Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Riesling. He’s begun a project to grow rare varieties that thrive in the Alps region of France. Mondeuse, anyone?

rootdownwinecellars.com

Ryme Cellars

Ryan and Meghan Glaab met while making wine in Australia, fell in love and married. They started Ryme Cellars in 2007 by crushing a ton of Aglianico, a rustic red grape. From there, they expanded to other obscure varieties such as Ribolla Gialla and Vermentino, as well as more traditional grapes Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. The indie experimentation mode is apparent in the Glaabs’ “His” and “Hers” Vermentinos; Megan presses the grapes, lets the fermented juice settle, and bottles the wine at its freshest. Ryan’s Vermentino is harvested later, fermented on the skins, and aged longer. They now have a small tasting room in Forestville.

rymecellars.com

15 Sonoma Wineries With Warm and Cozy Outdoor Tastings

November 2020

By Linda Murphy

Over the past seven months, Sonoma wineries have been busy adjusting to coronavirus restrictions. No longer able to host visitors indoors, many have modified their patios, great lawns, walkways and even parking lots to accommodate seated tastings outdoors. Those changes, plus virtual tastings, online wine sales and free delivery, have kept many wineries in business.

But it’s now mid-November. Much-needed rain has started to fall and temperatures are dropping. For now, there’s no retreating inside to toasty tasting rooms warmed by fireplaces and decorated for the holidays. However, with the Thanksgiving weekend ahead, wineries are again adapting to conditions by looking to tents, canopies, space heaters and plush blankets to make their guests as comfortable as possible.

For Joy Sterling of Iron Horse Vineyards in Sebastopol, being limited to outdoor tastings is not a big deal. Year-around, her family’s wines are poured outdoors; there is no indoor tasting room. There is, however, a magnificent view to the east of the Mayacamas Mountains, sometimes dusted with snow. Four walls would deprive visitors of the full-view beauty of the place. Heaters and farm-market-style tents are always on hand for chilly, rainy days and have been dusted off for the looming winter weather.

It’s a bit more lavish at Muscardini Cellars in Sonoma Valley, which has taken on the coronavirus challenges with a Winter Wonderland Tent for tastings and pairings and a Meet Your Palate tasting experience (Nov. 21-22), featuring a blind tasting of wines that are great mates for the Thanksgiving table.

These Sonoma wineries have scrambled yet again to host visitors under COVID restrictions, offering cozy rather than chilly receptions in trying circumstances. Remember to make a reservation in advance.

Alexander Valley Vineyards

Like many longtime wineries, Alexander Valley Vineyards relied on indoor tastings at its cozy bar, conducive to collegial conversation. COVID forced tastings to be moved to the covered outdoor porch, though the comfortable vibe continues. During chilly weather, each table will have a pyramid patio propane heater to ward off the cold. Space is limited to four tables, with a maximum six guests per table, for the Estate and Reserve tastings. Cabernet sauvignon and zinfandel are the calling cards, and estate-grown chardonnay and pinot noir do well in Alexander Valley’s typically warm climate, with vines cooled by the Russian River.

8644 Hwy 128, Healdsburg. 707-433-7209 x116, avvwine.com

Benovia Winery

Winemaker and partner Mike Sullivan excels at producing so many varietals that it’s difficult to choose favorites. Chardonnay and pinot noir, grenache and zinfandel and sophisticated sparkling wines are all outstanding. Taste a selection of them at the winery’s Ranch House on the Martaella Estate Vineyard in Russian River Valley. Alfresco tastings at Benovia are hosted on a deck that wraps around the Ranch House and offers views of Mount St. Helena. Benovia has added awnings, space heaters and blankets for visitors.

3339 Hartman Road, Santa Rosa, 707-921-1040, benoviawinery.com

Bucher Wines

By appointment, Diane and John Bucher pour their Russian River Valley estate-grown wines at Grand Cru Custom Crush in Windsor. “We roll up our beautiful glass doors, position a large heater in the open doorway and guests can be a few feet inside our salons and enjoy tasting,” Diane Bucher said. “As there is plenty of fresh air, we encourage guests to dress warmly.” The Buchers grow pinot noir in the Middle Reach area of Russian River Valley, with the wines made by Adam Lee of Siduri Wines fame. All the pinots (and a late-harvest sauvignon blanc) are big-flavored and juicy; if it’s available, don’t miss tasting the 2018 Pommard Clone Pinot Noir.

Grand Cru Custom Crush, 1200 American Way, Windsor, 707-484-5162, bucher.wine/our-wines/taste

Copain Wines

Wineries along Westside Road southwest of Healdsburg get more than their share of attention. After all, Rochioli, Williams Selyem, Gary Farrell, MacRostie and Flowers are here. But don’t forget about Eastside Road, which parallels Westside Road along the Russian River, and Copain Wines. The winery overlooks the river and produces site-specific chardonnays, pinot noirs and syrahs. Guests sit at private outdoor tables; in cold and/or rainy weather, seatings are in covered, heated areas.

7800 Eastside Road, Healdsburg, 707-836-8822, copainwines.com

Chalk Hill Estate Winery

Rain or shine, this Windsor estate offers tastings as well as wine and food pairings, including the “Fried Chicken & Caviar Chardonnay Pairing for Two.” Current tastings are on the patio, with tents pitched for inclement weather. At press time, Chalk Hill was poised to move winter wine and culinary experiences to a former dressage horse riding arena, with its covered roof and open-air sides. It’s now an elegant space, repurposed by owner Bill Foley from previous owner Peggy Furth’s equally grand equine center.

10300 Chalk Hill Road, Healdsburg, 707-657-1809, chalkhill.com

Dry Creek Vineyard

Kim Stare Wallace and her team, which includes winemaker Tim Bell, continue to produce excellent-value wines, after Stare Wallace’s father, Dave, founded the winery in 1972. Sauvignon blanc and zinfandel are strong suits, and the merlots, cabernet sauvignons and Bordeaux-style blends over-deliver for their price. Blessed with a large lawn in front of the tasting room, Dry Creek Vineyard offers outdoor seated tastings there by appointment when the weather is dry; a tented area with socially distant seating is available for rainy days. Blankets are available for chilly days.

3770 Lambert Bridge Road, Healdsburg, 707-433-1000, drycreekvineyard.com

Iron Horse Vineyards

Some of the finest sparkling wines from California, as well as elegant chardonnays and pinot noir table wines, are produced by the Sterling family at Iron Horse. The wines can be tasted at the outdoor tasting “room” with views of Mount St. Helena. There is also physically distanced seating in a gazebo for bottle purchases, with an option to pre-order picnic-style meals from Big Bottom Market in Guerneville. Don’t miss the biscuits; they pair beautifully with the Classic Vintage Brut bubbly.

9786 Ross Station Road, Sebastopol, 707-887-1507, ironhorsevineyards.com

Keller Estate

Walking tours of the Petaluma Gap estate, with its vineyards, outdoor artwork, olive groves and south-facing views, are an invigorating part of each visit, unless it’s raining. In that case, Ana Keller and her team move the experience to the Classic Collection Room, with its wide double doors open to the view of the vineyards and perhaps a classic car in the background. Tastings of Keller’s chardonnays, pinot noirs, rosés and sparkling wines (and an deep, earthy, under-the-radar syrah-based wine called Rotie) are intimate, with one small party per time slot. Through Dec. 5, guests who bring a lightly used winter coat, to be donated to Larkin Street Youth Services in San Francisco, receive two tastings for the price of one.

5875 Lakeville Highway, Petaluma, 707-765-2117, kellerestate.com

La Crema Estate

Jackson Family Wines’ revitalization of the Saralee’s Vineyard site in Russian River Valley was designed to take advantage of this grand outdoor location, with additional tastings indoors of the chardonnays and pinot noirs. The winery’s outdoor patios come into play during the pandemic, with their high plexiglas screens providing overhead coverage from rain and limiting direct wind gusts on guests. Fresh air flows though the seating areas, and heaters are there for warmth.

3575 Slusser Road, Windsor, 707-525-6200, lacrema.com

Ledson Vineyards & Winery

Steve Ledson has been known to throw a tent event or two on his Kenwood estate. His winery building, known as the Castle, has several indoor tasting areas, but a tent has been used for special events for years, and it has come in handy during pandemic times. The tent is heated for cold-weather visits, and guests can order fresh sandwiches and cheese and charcuterie plates from Ledson’s Gourmet Marketplace. The list of wines produced is lengthy, with a bottle for every taste.

7335 Highway 12, Kenwood, 707-537-3810, ledson.com

Muscardini Cellars

Mike Muscardini’s cabernet sauvignons and Italian-style red wines are big, bold and ideal for enjoying in late fall and winter. His Winter Wonderland Tent, which opened Nov. 7 and runs into early 2021, is decked with 2,000 sparkling lights and silver snowflakes, with a selection of olive oils, chocolates and other treats for sale. Several sensory experiences are offered by appointment, including a blind tasting of wines that are great mates for the Thanksgiving table (Nov. 21-22) and a chocolate-with-wine pairing session of Muscardini wines with sweets created by master chocolatier Sebastian Beline (Dec. 5-Feb. 28, 2021).

9380 Sonoma Highway, Kenwood, 707-933-9305, muscardinicellars.com

Papapietro Perry Winery

This pinot noir specialist, previously offering traditional tastings at its indoor bar, expanded and covered its outdoor deck just before the pandemic hit. It was a prescient move, as the Dry Creek Valley winery has been able to host visitors outside since March, physically distanced. Heaters are at the ready for chilly days, and logo blankets are sold for additional warmth. Tastings include five wines; charcuterie boards can be added for additional cost.

4791 Dry Creek Road, Healdsburg, 707-433-0422, papapietro-perry.com

Pedroncelli Winery

This 90-year-old winery has weathered many a storm, including wars, Prohibition and depressions. As a family-owned winery, it’s tackled coronavirus with determination, now with the purchase of a tent for sheltered outdoor winter tastings and the addition of space heaters. Plush logo blankets are sold at winery cost to guests, and flights have been developed (Elegant Pursuits, Pedroncelli Starters and others) so visitors can choose a flight at the time of booking and have it ready upon arrival. Pedroncelli wines offer excellent value; zinfandel, cabernet sauvignon and sangiovese and a sauvignon blanc are strengths.

1220 Canyon Road, Geyserville, 707-857-3531, pedroncelli.com

Rodney Strong Vineyards

If you’ve ever attended one of Rodney Strong’s summer concerts, know that the Concert Green Stage is where outdoor tastings are now being held. The stage, where the Beach Boys, Hall and Oates, Huey Lewis and others have performed, is covered by a permanent tent top, with open sides for air and heating lamps to keep people warm. Multiple tasting experiences are offered, including those from Rodney Strong Vineyards and sister brands Davis Bynum and Rowen Wine Co.

11455 Old Redwood Highway, Healdsburg, 707-431-1533, rodneystrong.com

Vérité

Here is a rare opportunity to taste wines that cost $400 or more per bottle, score in the high 90s and even 100 points from prestigious critics and are sold almost exclusively to mailing-list members and collectors. That Vérité now welcomes guests to sample its three Bordeaux-style red blends (Le Désir, La Muse, La Joie), made by Pierre Seillan from Sonoma grapes, is rather remarkable. For $150 per person, the three current-release Vérité wines, plus an older library wine, are poured in a heated tent for a maximum six persons. Oenophiles, take advantage of the opportunity while it lasts.

4611 Thomas Road, Healdsburg, 433-9000, veritewines.com

Fourth Street Social in Downtown Santa Rosa Appeals to Meat and Plant Eaters Alike

November 2020

By Heather Irwin

Jackfruit pulled “pork” sliders with slaw at Fourth Street Social in Santa Rosa. (Heather Irwin / The Press Democrat)

Who eats more plant-based “meat” products than vegans and vegetarians? Turns out, everyone does.

Skyrocketing sales of meatless burgers like the Beyond burger and other “faux” animal proteins are being driven almost exclusively by meat eaters looking for healthier alternatives. A 2019 study by NPD Group, a market research company, found that more than 90% of plant-based meat and dairy fans just wanted more variety in their diets.

It makes sense, if you think about it. Not many vegetarians are thrilled about experiencing something that looks like blood coming out of their burger — even if it is vegetable-based. At least that’s what my meat-free friends tell me.

But finding restaurants that have a strong appeal for both meat eaters and plant eaters is as rare as civil discourse on politics at the Thanksgiving table. It’s a dream but rarely a reality.

Enter Fourth Street Social in downtown Santa Rosa, located in the former Jade Room, as a new alternative.

Co-owner Melissa Matteson, who owns the restaurant with her husband, says as a former vegan, she struggled to find plant-based comfort food for years when she went out to eat.

“I wanted to do something for everyone, where you could go out with family and friends and finding something to eat was a 20 minute process,” she said.

Using her own recipes as inspiration, she’s created an approachable menu that serves up sustainably raised meat like Philly cheesesteak, along with vegetarian mushroom toast with pomegranate seeds or a variety of eye-tricking dishes like watermelon poke, jackfruit chicken nuggets and carrot “lox”.

What we love about Fourth Street Social Club is the unapologetic creativity in creating flavorfully crafted dishes that welcome almost any dietary preference. As a genre-bending menu, there are some hits and misses, but no doubt about the heart behind this new downtown space.

Open for all-day brunch, lunch and dinner, the restaurant also features an extensive beer, wine and cocktail list. Don’t miss the Michelada flight or “design you own mimosa” with a bottle of champagne and fruit juices.

Best Bets

Carrot “Lox” Plate, $15: Way back in 2017, I was floored by the carrot “lox” served at the now-shuttered Drawing Board restaurant in Petaluma. How a carrot could have a smoky, umami taste nothing like a carrot but reminiscent of cured and smoked salmon was mind-bending. This version is a bit simpler, but the salty, smoky strips of carrot smothered with vegan cream cheese, onions and capers is a tasty alternative to the real thing.

Watermelon Poke, $11/$17: This was one of my favorite dishes of the day — even though it had a few issues. Small ruby chunks of watermelon become tuna imitators atop a pile of jasmine rice, avocado and brilliant kimchi green onions. The cold, flavorless rice doesn’t add anything to the dish, and I would have tossed in some sesame oil to really boost up the flavor of the “poke”, but overall, this provocative dish impressed.

BBQ Sliders, $16: Jackfruit has become a common meat alternative due to its fibrous texture and mild flavor. Think of it as a chewier cousin to tofu, taking on the flavor of whatever sauce it’s paired with. Two small pretzel buns are piled high with slaw and flavorful barbecue jackfruit chunks. Solid.

Mushroom Pomegranate Toast, $12: Mushrooms and pomegranate seem like a super odd combination, but work nicely together as a bruschetta. Earthy, cooked mushrooms lighten up with a combination of rosemary and thyme. Tart pomegranate seeds — which are so of the moment — brighten the dish even more.

Jacked Up Popcorn Chikn, $10: Wedges of jackfruit are breaded and fried into a chicken-nugget look-alike. Alone, the jackfruit has a slight artichoke taste, but when dipped into vegan cilantro-lime aioli, honey mustard or buffalo sauce, they’re likely to pass the picky-eater test.

643 4th St, Santa Rosa, 707-978-3882, 4thstreetsocialclub.com. Open Thursday through Monday.

Healdsburg Bee Business Buzzes with Possibilities

November 2020

By Matt Villano

Candice Koseba, founder of Sonoma County Bee Company

Honeybees are dormant at this time of year, but a new Healdsburg company built around bees and bee products is abuzz with activity after a successful first 18 months.

The company, Sonoma County Bee Company, enjoyed record growth in 2020 despite the pandemic and is angling for even more wins in the coming months, including a virtual honey tasting and a partnership with the soon-to-open Montage resort on the north end of Healdsburg.

For founder Candice Koseba, the company is the culmination of a 6-year journey to build a nature-centered career.

“I feel extremely fortunate that I now make my living at the mercy of nature, the cycles of seasons and life,” Koseba said. “This reality and vulnerability provide me with much more than I ever thought possible.”

Humble beginnings

Sonoma County Bee Company launched in May 2019, well before the coronavirus pandemic, social distancing and face coverings became the norm. But the story of how Koseba got into beekeeping starts before that.

The 34-year-old began her career as a chef, first in Chicago and then in Carmel, where she worked at the Michelin-starred restaurant L’Auberge. There, during stroller walks with her then-newborn son (he’s 10 now and has a 3-year-old sister), she became curious about edible plants and decided to pivot her career. Eventually, Koseba and her husband moved to Sonoma County, and she began to study at The California School of Herbal Studies in Forestville.

In 2014, after her husband Aaron took a gig as the chef de cuisine at Single Thread in Healdsburg, Koseba signed on to become the restaurant’s lead forager. It was here that Koseba had her first experience with honeybees.

“There was a desire to have hives on the (Single Thread) farm, and I saw the opportunity to learn,” Koseba remembered. “As a forager I had become fascinated with observing and anticipating cycles and seasons of life.” Working with a colony of honeybees was a natural extension.

Candice Koseba, founder of Sonoma County Bee Company. (Jarod Reichle)

Harvesting honey for Sonoma County Bee Company. (Jarod Reichle)

Koseba read everything about bees that she could get her hands on. She took classes at Santa Rosa Junior College with Serge Lebesque, a local bee expert. She even joined the Sonoma County Beekeepers Association.

As Koseba’s knowledge and comfort level grew, so too did the number of colonies under her charge. Eventually, she founded Sonoma County Bee Company to manage them all. Today, the company works as a collective; Koseba and fellow beekeepers Cheryl Caletti, Lynne Black and Marques Burrus tend hives all over Sonoma County. They offer basic apiary management, swarm removal and beekeeping consultations.

The hives are primarily Langstroth (the box-shaped hives most people are familiar with) and hybrid log hives, which allow bees to build comb inside hollowed-out logs.

All told, the company oversees more than 40 hives containing about 900,000 bees.

Koseba and some of her beekeeping partners also perform “rescue operations” and manage hives in danger or disrepair. Following the Walbridge and Glass fires in August, September and October, demand for these services skyrocketed as bee-lovers lost their homes and couldn’t tend to their bees.

Range of products

Sonoma County Bee Company sells a variety of products, many which incorporate herbal elements and are inspired by the hive.

They include raw honey, beeswax candles, an herb salve made with beeswax, botanical hand sanitizer and two different types of hydrosols. All the items are made with honey and wax from local bees, and all contain natural ingredients only. The products are sold on the company’s website or at local stores such as Market 377 in Healdsburg and Miracle Plum in Santa Rosa.

Gwen Gunheim, one of the owners at Miracle Plum, said one of the things that drew Miracle Plum to Sonoma County Bee Company was the business’s ethos.

“Her (Koseba’s) first priority is to the bees and to helping folks be better stewards of the land by way of creating bee-friendly habitats,” Gunheim said. “Bees are the perfect entry point to start thinking and talking about food systems, how agriculture can be harmful and how we can start to think about harm reduction. Bees are a great indicator of healthy land.”

Next month, the company will host its first-ever virtual honey tasting. The event, scheduled for Tuesday, Dec. 8, will be a guided blind honey tasting with honey from the 2020 harvest and a side-by-side comparison of four mono-varietal honeys. The experience also will give participants a behind-the-scenes look at how Koseba and Caletti decide when it’s safe to take honey from the hives and how they “crush” honeycomb, as well as a crash course in honey aromas and the flavors of different honey varieties.

Prices for the event start at $45, and participants receive a 9-ounce jar of SCBC 2020 Raw Honey, a tasting flight of four varietals, a honey tasting flavor wheel and a honey color guide. (The last day to purchase tickets for the event is Monday, Nov. 30. Tickets can be purchased online.)

What’s next

Sonoma County Bee Company’s profile is likely to keep rising, courtesy of a new partnership with Montage Healdsburg, a luxury resort opening in mid-December.

Koseba has agreed to manage the resort’s five-hive apiary and use honey and wax from it to craft custom products for the onsite spa. Koseba also will be on property to give tours and workshops to guests who express an interest in beekeeping. Montage guests won’t be able to work with bees, but one of the log hives will have a Plexiglas wall so visitors can see what the bees are doing inside.

General Manager Allen Highfield says he’s excited about the partnership.

“Candice’s enthusiasm as a beekeeper is second to none. We look forward to working alongside the Sonoma County Bee Company (through) our apiary and bee program, where our guests will learn about the super-organism that is the hive and everything it accomplishes when left to its own natural devices.”

Koseba says she’s working on several new products that incorporate honey or beeswax from her hives, as well.

10 Best You-Cut Tree Farms in Sonoma County

November 2020

By Megan M Ccrea

Farmer Keith Garlock smiles, remembering a story he once heard from another Christmas tree grower. “When new employees come to work, they tell them, ‘You’ve heard Disneyland is the happiest place on earth? Well, this is the second happiest place on earth.’ I like that, because it really is. It’s festive — it gets everybody in the holiday spirit.”

Keith would know: He and his siblings, Debbie and Bill, grew up on Garlock Christmas Tree Farm, a Sebastopol you-cut operation founded in 1966. Each December, he watched as bundled-up families would tumble out of their cars, then wander among the lacy-fingered cedars and fragrant pines in search of the perfect tree to take home. It’s a ritual that’s been repeated from year to year to year, with little changing besides the hairstyles and the cars. It’s also a joyful reminder that, even as the world around us shifts and shivers, some things remain the same.

As the customers preserve their holiday traditions, so too does the Garlock family. In 1985, Keith’s siblings and their spouses bought property just over the hill from the original family farm and founded their own farms, Frosty Mountain, pictured on these pages, and Reindeer Ridge. And in 2001, when his parents retired, Keith took the reins. “To tell you the truth,” he says, “the entire Christmas tree business is a tradition that’s been passed down in the family. It’s a way of life.”

Carol and Kriss Mungle of Petaluma chose that way of life in 1985. Like the Garlock kids, Carol grew up on a local Christmas tree farm, Larsen’s. She and Kriss were living in the East Bay when her dad asked if she might want to move back and get into the family business. “My husband, who wore
a three-piece suit to work every day, was like, ‘Sounds good!’”

The Mungles bought an old chicken ranch and transformed it into Little Hills Christmas Tree Farm. The Petaluma property, a stone’s throw from Helen Putnam Regional Park, is a slice of the wild, drawing deer, foxes, and blue jays during the quiet offseason.

The wildlife cohabits with the Mungles’ own animals: 5-year-old Newfoundland Chloe; rescue pigs Marigold and Petunia; alpacas; miniature donkeys; and a pair of garrulous turkeys. “You can talk to them, then they start talking,” says Carol. “It’s the funniest thing!” She and Kriss love seeing the happiness Little Hills brings to customers. “In a time where people are busy and families are going in different directions, it’s so special to have a day with an outing where you go do something together,” she says.

“People thank us for being open.”

After running the farm for three decades, Carol has noticed something else, too. “When we first started, our motto was, ‘We’re growing tradition.’ Thinking we were growing other people’s traditions, right? And one year it occurred to me, not only did we grow their tradition, we grew our own tradition, because these families—I’ve been watching them come since they were little kids. And now they’re grown with their little kids. And that’s pretty special.”

Sonoma’s Best You-Cut Tree Farms

Celesta Farms: Opened by Christmas-loving couple Steve and Carol Schwartz, this relative newcomer, founded in 2006, welcomes dogs with Milk Bones and humans with homemade chocolate chip cookies. Bonus: They’ve got views for days. 3447 Celesta Court, Sebastopol, 707-829-9352, celestafarms.com

Frosty Mountain Tree Farm: The “old red barn” — a 50-year-old apple packing shed — marks the spot at this farm, owned by Bill and Lynn Garlock and featured in the photos on these pages. Guests can caffeinate at the coffee truck and gape at panoramic views on the hayride. Bonus: Friendly goats! 3600 Mariola Road, Sebastopol, 707-829-2351, frostymountaintreefarm.com

Garlock Christmas Tree Farm: Keith and Becky Garlock are old pros and consummate hosts, offering thoughtful advice on tree selection, and free coffee to boot. Bonus: They grow a wide variety of trees, including the fragrant grand fir. 2275 Bloomfield Road, Sebastopol, 707-823-4307, garlocktreefarm.com

Grandma Buddy’s Christmas Trees: Think Grandma Buddy’s looks like something out of a Pottery Barn catalog? It is! The property, graced with a beautiful barn and a seasonal stream, is so picturesque, it’s been a cover model. Bonus: hot chocolate made with Grandma’s recipe. 8575 Graton Road, Sebastopol, 707-823-4547, grandmastrees.com

Graton Fire Department Christmas Tree Farm: Proceeds from this farm — staffed by Graton firefighters and held right outside the firehouse— benefit the all-volunteer department. Time your visit right and you might meet Santa in a fire helmet. Bonus: This site was formerly the landmark Del Davis Tree Farm, memorialized in a 1995 song from the band Primus. Where else but Sonoma will you find a tree farm with its own funk-metal anthem? 3750 Gravenstein Hwy., Sebastopol, 707-322-2091, gratonfire.com/christmas-tree-farm.html

Larsen’s Christmas Tree Farm: This old-school spot is especially welcoming for first-timers: they offer saws, carts, and even “lumberjacks” to assist as you select and cut your tree. Bonus: The scenic grounds make a great background for last-minute Christmas pictures. 391 Marshall Ave., Petaluma 707-762-6317, petalumachristmas.com

Little Hills Christmas Tree Farm: Little Hills isn’t just a tree farm—it’s also home to a menagerie that includes Carol and Kriss Mungle’s Newfoundland dog, alpacas, mini-donkeys, and turkeys. Bonus: the gorgeous sales barn, made from reclaimed wood from the property’s old chicken barns. 961 Chapman Lane, Petaluma 707-763-4678, littlehillschristmastree.com

Pronzini Ranch: Pronzini is well-known for its pumpkin patch. Less well-known: after Halloween, Pronzini Ranch, located on Adobe Road (not to be confused with the Pronzini tree lots) opens for you-cut tree harvesting. Bonus: The 128acre ranch has an impressive petting zoo with ponies, pygmy goats, and long-horned Watusi cows. 3795 Adobe Road, Petaluma 707-778-3871, pronzinifarms.com

Reindeer Ridge Christmas Tree Farm: Next door to Frosty Mountain sits Reindeer Ridge, owned by the Garlocks’ daughter Debbie and her husband Paul. The farm is especially kid-friendly and has stunning views of adjacent vineyards. Bonus: Delightful photo ops inside the reindeer sign. 3500 Mariola Road, Sebastopol 707-829-1569, reindeerridge.com

Santa’s Trees: Looking to hike on the way to finding your tree? This wild, hilly property in the western part of the county — where trees of all shapes and sizes are intermingled — is your place. Bonus: Dogs are allowed (off-leash!), and there’s plenty of room to romp. 11389 Barnett Valley Road, Sebastopol 707-303-6084, santastrees.biz

A Tree Hunt That Helps Save the Forest

At two local nature preserves, the goal of finding the perfect tree goes hand in hand with one of even greater importance: reducing the threat of wildfire.

Since 2017, the Santa Rosa-based conservation organization LandPaths has welcomed the public to the Riddell Preserve for an event they call “the Great Charlie Brown Christmas Tree Hunt.” The preserve, a gorgeous 400-acre oasis of oak woodlands, redwood trees, and open grasslands overlooking Dry Creek Valley, is just beginning to heal from effects of the August 2020 Walbridge fire.

In 2019, LandPaths added a Charlie Brown tree hunt at its new 400-acre Ocean Song preserve in western Sonoma County. The group plans to offer tree hunts at both locations again this winter. The aim is to thin out unwanted species of trees and improve the health of the surrounding forest. For 2020 dates and registration, visit landpaths.org.

This Soup Shack Serves Up Warming Comfort Food Around Sonoma County

November 2020

By Heather Irwin

I could eat soup all day, every day — bisque, stew, chowder, broth and everything in between. Nourishing and warm, it’s like a blanket for your soul.

Seems I’m not alone. Chef Chad Holmes of Chad’s Soup Shack is selling out more than 25 gallons of his short rib chili, coconut curry shrimp bisque, potato dill, chowder and Tuscan sausage kale soups each week at local farmers markets.

Holmes says he had planned a soup business for months before the pandemic but spent some time rethinking his plans — and waiting for soup season — before his debut.

Holmes uses local ingredients and makes his own stock. In culinary school, his saucier classes were his favorites, he says, and he found peace in making soups and sauces from scratch.

“It’s really relaxing, making stock, cutting vegetables and putting it all together,” he says. “I find myself eating my own soup, saying, ‘Mmm, this is good!’”

Like many chefs facing incredibly tough odds during the pandemic, Holmes chose not to open a food truck or brick-and-mortar location for now and instead to go directly to customers from his commercial kitchen.

“COVID was somewhat of a blessing to make me pull back,” he says. “Having $5,000 in overhead before you even sell the food is hard, and that’s a huge weight off my shoulders. I’ve eliminated that process and do what I love.”

Most of the soups are gluten- and dairy-free, so they’re options for a variety of diets. But Holmes isn’t trying to reinvent the wheel; he’s sticking to basic ingredients.

“Less is more and simple is better,” he says.

If you’re craving his bean-less chili or other soups, you can find Holmes at the Windsor Certified Farmers Market on Sunday or the year-around Santa Rosa Farmers Lane Farmers Market on Wednesday.

More details at facebook.com/chadssoupshack

Pre-Order Your Thanksgiving Pies From These Sonoma Bakeries

November 2020

By Heather Irwin

Pumpkin pie with whipped cream and a fresh grate of nutmeg on top. (photo by John Burgess/The Press Democrat)

Thanksgiving may turn out to be a bit of a bust this year, in terms of big gatherings of family and friends. You can, however, eat your feelings and enjoy some pie. Here are a few spots to check out.

Marla Bakery: The popular San Francisco bakers have moved their operation to Santa Rosa and are ready for Thanksgiving orders. Choose from Sugarpie Pumpkin Tart with Candied Sage, Gateau Basque or Pecan Tart. marlabakery.com

Crumb Hither: Pumpkin, French Apple, Pumpkin Cheesecake and many more. Gluten-free and vegan options. crumbhither.com

Noble Folk: Tradition is great, but why not shake it up with a Pumpkin Chocolate Cheesecake Pie! Other tasty choices include Dutch Apple, Maple Pecan or Meyer Lemon Blueberry Baked Custard Pie. thenoblefolk.com

Nature Guides the Way in This Dry Creek Valley Home

November 2020

By Abigail Peterson

Stewardship of the land and respect for the spirit are threads that run through the lives of John and Dana Hawley. The winemaker and artist’s eco-friendly shingled redwood cottage, hand-built by John and some friends in the early 1980s, is a testament to resourcefulness and craft. Located west of Healdsburg on the shoulder of Bradford Mountain, overlooking the Dry Creek Valley, the 18-acre homestead has been the backdrop for a lifetime of creative passions for the entire family.

John and Dana, who have been married nearly 50 years, grew up in Marin and met while Dana was still in high school. They bought the property from a relative of Dana’s in the late 70s. She remembers seeing the land for the first time in spring, with pear and plum trees in bloom throughout the valley, as John, already interested in making wine, wandered the hills examining the dirt. “It was like the pioneer days,” says Dana. “Rattlesnakes, coyotes, bobcat were everywhere. We were very aware of what a magical place this was.”

The redwood-shingled cottage. (Rebecca Gosselin) — The redwood-shingled cottage. (Rebecca Gosselin / Sonoma Magazine)

The view from the back porch. (Rebecca Gosselin / Sonoma Magazine)

John, who had some background in carpentry and the trades, started tinkering on a design for the home while studying winemaking at UC Davis. His brother drew plans, and friends came up on weekends to camp at the property and help build the house. “We supplied the lunch and the beer,” jokes John. The early years, the couple agrees, were “pretty hand to mouth,” as Dana puts it, but a freewheeling, creative spirit reigned and a shingled cottage with a tall stone fireplace and massive Douglas fir beams took shape. “We just paid for materials,” says John. “Back then, the lumber—you could buy truckloads of redwood, easily.”

Not long after, they had two young sons who grew up rambling through the property’s hills and creeks, while Dana made art and John planted vines and fruit trees. And in the same way they bootstrapped the building of the cottage, John built an admirable wine career, spending a decade as founding winemaker at Clos du Bois and later working hand-in-hand with Jess Jackson as head winemaker for Kendall-Jackson during the heady, high-growth years of the mid-1990s.

But as their homestead blossomed, John and Dana longed for a simpler life and a business of their own, a dream they realized with Hawley Winery. Today, their sons, Paul and Austin, now grown with families of their own, run the business and oversee winemaking—though John still runs the tractor through the vineyard rows and can’t manage to stay away from the lab and barrel room for very long. Like their parents, both sons have a bit of the Renaissance spirit to them. Austin is the winemaker, but also builds furniture, and Paul, who has a business degree, is a filmmaker and a co-founder of Fogbelt Brewing.

The dining area. (Rebecca Gosselin / Sonoma Magazine)

A music corner. (Rebecca Gosselin / Sonoma Magazine)

These days, John and Dana rise with the sun, Dana to paint in the soft morning light that streams into her studio across the courtyard, and John to work with his peregrine falcon Stratus, named for the clouds. In addition to wine, falconry has been John’s lifelong passion—so much so that visitors to the on-site tasting room for Hawley Winery have been known to chat with the winemaker while Stratus rests, calmly perched, on John’s arm.

John’s falconry involves obsessive levels of preparation and devoted study: weighing out Stratus’s daily meal of raw quail meat down to the gram, training him step by step, and making sure he stays fit for flying (“in fine feather” is a real thing; should a bird of prey break a feather, it can seriously impact its health). Their daily expeditions are an exercise of the spirit for both bird and trainer, as John follows the falcon in flight by GPS, often for several miles. Peregrine falcons are incredible acrobats in the air, seeing their prey from above and taking on speeds up to 240 miles per hour. “I feel the exhilaration that he feels,” says John. “Falcons fly for the joy of flying.”

Paintbrushes in Dana’s studio. (Rebecca Gosselin / Sonoma Magazine)

Dana’s studio. (Rebecca Gosselin / Sonoma Magazine)

John and Dana’s life is a rustic and centered one, revolving around the seasons, the wildlife, and their garden and animals. Their puppy, Sunny, is in training to be a falconry dog, helping to track the birds during flight. In spring, the homing pigeons John keeps will give birth to their chicks, and in summer, the days are full of weeding and jam-making. This time of year, the Hawley family wines are mostly finished fermenting, so there’s time for longer walks in the hills to hunt for the chanterelles and cepes that start appearing after early rains. The two streams that run along the edges of the property start to flow more quickly, and Dana brings their young grandchildren there to collect pine cones and float tiny boats made of walnut shells. And back inside, the fireplace, which John designed to reflect heat back efficiently into the main floor living spaces, is in use once again while the family watches squalls roll in through the valley.

They’ve lived on the land long enough, and in tune with it closely enough, to be concerned about the impacts they say they already see from climate change. The couple has always lived lightly, farmed their vines organically, and maintained a diversity of plantings. But John says they have less of a winter season each year than they did before. And late this past summer, they experienced a record 113-degree day and lightning storms before being evacuated during the Walbridge fire. John and Dana say they worry for the health of the trees and wildlife, but remain gratified at how nature has taken hold in the lives of their children and grandchildren. “We live here because it’s the life we love,” says John. “But if we’re going to have nature around us, we’re going to have to be better stewards of it.”