Saying goodbye to summer is never easy but the changing of the seasons comes with a few perks. For example, local distilleries are serving fall-inspired cocktails with a taste of the cozy and festive months ahead. Click through the above gallery to see what some of our favorite distilleries are mixing up for their guests. Did we miss one of your favorites? Let us know in the comments below.
Saying goodbye to your summer garden’s radiant sunflowers and scrumptious tomatoes can be kind of heartbreaking. But there’s still plenty of growing fun to look forward to as the days become cooler. We looked to Sonoma’s garden pros for fall planting inspiration. While fall and winter plants don’t provide the colorful show that spring and summer plants do, there’s still lots to cultivate in sunny Sonoma during this more subdued season. And for a spectacular spring, the time to start planning is now. All you need to do is dig a little bit deeper.
The gardens at Wild Flour Bread in Freestone (140 Bohemian Highway) are fantastically bountiful — make sure you peruse them before or after you get some of the bakery’s legendary scones or breads. While the fruits of summer’s labor can now be seen hanging heavily on trellises (grapes, pumpkins and squash), hardier crops are flourishing alongside them, including kales and cabbages. These leafy plants prefer the cold but can withstand heat, so they’re a good choice for planting right now. Staggering planting times a week or so apart can keep a crop growing over a longer period of time.
Wild Flour gardener Sally Smith loves planting garlic this time of year because of the experimentation involved in growing different varieties. The bakery sources seeds and plants from Harmony Farm Supply and Nursery (locations in Sebastopol and Petaluma); the nursery carries garlic in varieties that range from super spicy to mild and rich. This year, Smith will grow hard neck and soft neck varieties — she likes to weave the soft neck garlic bulbs together and give them as gifts. Her main advice for planting: “The plants will do whatever they want. You think you’ll get control — just let ’em go.”
Now, before the first frost, is the time to plant spring bulbs. Daffodils, hyacinths, tulips and more can make up a great cutting garden. Planting with bloom times in mind — that time range from late winter to early spring — allows for staggered blooming.
If waiting for those spring bulbs to bloom makes you feel crazy with impatience, King’s Nursery in Santa Rosa (1212 13th St.) provides an excellent option. They recommend planting cold-hardy blooms in the spaces between the bulbs. Pansies or Icelandic Poppies and other flowers can color the garden beautifully while you wait for spring.
If you’d rather put your garden to bed for fall and winter, consider planting fava beans to enrich the soil with nitrogen. This creates a naturally fertile planting ground come spring. We like to take a cue from the test gardens at Cornerstone Sonoma (23570 Arnold Dr.), where the raised beds grew fava beans last season. The beanstalks grow high (at around four feet — not enough to reach a giant, but still) and provide a pop of green during winter.
Fall is a good time to plant perennials since cooler temperatures won’t stress young plants. Perennials are stalwart elements of the garden, making things easier on the gardener while offering a little color during dormant times. Verbena on a Stick at the test gardens at Cornerstone Sonoma (see photo in slideshow) fill in the gaps between crops. They attract pollinators to boot, which are good for the earth and the garden aesthetic.
An iconic piece of architecture has hit the real estate market in northern Sonoma’s oceanfront community The Sea Ranch. With an $8 million asking price, the cliffside estate of late landscape architect and Sea Ranch master planner Lawrence Halprin will be open for offers until Oct. 15.
Halprin, who passed away in 2009, was among a group of architecture faculty at UC Berkeley, who, in the early 1960s, were tasked to transform a 5,200-acre sheep ranch on the Sonoma Coast into a modernist residential community. Halprin and his colleagues envisioned a community in harmony with nature; Halprin defined its guiding ethos — “living lightly on the land.” Typical features of suburbia and non-native plants were banned. No lawns, no palm trees and no fences were allowed.
While devising the Sea Ranch master plan, Halprin also made sure that the new dwellings wouldn’t obscure the rugged coastline. He wanted to protect the area from the kind of mansions typically built on expensive ocean-view properties, a phenomenon he called the “Malibu wall,” referring to the miles-long row of three-story luxury homes along the Pacific Coast Highway from Santa Monica through Malibu.
At The Sea Ranch, homes dotted the area, while ocean views remained. The community’s radically restrained approach to residential development and its unadorned wooden houses soon garnered international attention.
The Halprin estate for sale today is an expansion of a cabin the landscape architect and his colleagues designed for the lot in the 1960s. The simple dwelling by the sea provided creative inspiration to Halprin and his wife, Anna, an accomplished modern dancer. The couple held workshops for their students in an outdoor amphitheater on the property.
Over the decades, Halprin added an additional level, an adjacent studio and a Carnelian granite fireplace to the property. (The fireplace references the Franklin D. Roosevelt memorial Halprin designed in the 1970s. The memorial’s water features are made out of Carnelian granite).
In 2001, a house fire destroyed the oceanfront cabin. Halprin described the subsequent rebuilding process as “at once exciting and emotionally difficult.” The rebuild adhered to The Sea Ranch’s strict building regulations and architectural requirements intended to preserve the community’s harmony with nature. Halprin was able to add a room for his grandchildren, a larger kitchen and a study for Anna. Single-sloped roofs run parallel to the hillside. Wood siding blends seamlessly with the land.
The sale of the Halprin estate comes at a time when the local real estate market is hitting price records monthly. Listing agent Hanne Lissberg says “prices (at Sea Ranch) are up 41% over the last year with an average price of almost $1.5 million, on par with San Francisco and Santa Barbara or double the Sonoma County average.” Just this year, 77 homes at The Sea Ranch have sold.
Click through the above gallery to peek inside the Halprin estate.
The Halprin Estate is listed by Hanne Liisberg and Company in The Sea Ranch. For property details and appointments, please call 707-785-3322, info@liisbergandcompany, liisbergandcompany.com.
No matter how old you are, a visit to the pumpkin patch remains a cherished fall tradition. In Sonoma County, there’s more to this seasonal ritual than simply picking pumpkins. Depending on what local pumpkin patch you choose to visit, you can wander through corn mazes, climb a haystack, pet fuzzy farm animals or try out a pumpkin slingshot! Click through the gallery above for help planning your next pumpkin patch adventure.
What’s your favorite Sonoma County pumpkin patch? Let us know in the comments below!
The quirky downtown Santa Rosa restaurant 4th Street Social Club faced an uphill battle during the pandemic, opening just weeks before shelter-in-place orders took effect.
Since then, we’ve enjoyed wildly ambitious fare from Chef Jeremy Cabrera, made in a postage-stamp-size kitchen without a gas range or hood. The team won a Snail of Approval award for their dedication to using local ingredients and had a small but loyal following.
But, as reported Thursday, owners Melissa and Chris Matteson have decided to close up shop Oct. 11, due to COVID-19-related losses and the impact of the pandemic on foot traffic downtown.
The Mattesons said they hope to pursue a new restaurant endeavor. Until then, they’ll be serving dinner from 6 – 10 p.m. Thursday, Friday and Saturday and brunch from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. on Sunday. 643 Fourth St., Santa Rosa
Little Saint pairs with Marine Layer: What might be on the menu at the upcoming Little Saint restaurant, from Kyle and Katina Connaughton of the upscale Single Thread? Get a sneak peek by visiting the new Healdsburg tasting room from Marine Layer Wines.
Marine Layer is pairing samples of its wines with a Little Saint mezze plate that includes dips, spreads, housemade crackers and crudités, changing based on what’s in season in the Little Saint farm garden. Tastings with the mezze platter are $50 per person.
Little Saint, located nearby in the former Shed space, is the much-anticipated collaboration between owners Jeff and Laurie Ubben, Jenny Hess and designer Ken Fulk and the Connaughtons. Similar to the “modern grange” concept of the previous owners, the massive space will have a restaurant, quick-service cafe and wine shop along with a gathering space. Owners expect a late fall opening.
Marine Layer is open from 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. daily, with reservations strongly recommended. To reserve, go to marinelayerwines.com. 308 B Center St. 707-395-0830.
Chef Shuffle: Brendalee Vialpando has been named executive chef at Jenner’s Timber Cove Resort. She was most recently executive chef at Bodega Bay Lodge. Cameron Bouldin is taking over the kitchens at Kivelstadt Winegarten in Sonoma. Calling himself a self-made chef, Bouldin has worked his way through the ranks, ending up as the former sous chef at Napa’s Oenotri and executive chef for Round Pond Estate.
Michelin stars are shining once again for California restaurateurs tapped for inclusion in the much-coveted 2021 lineup. Twenty-seven restaurants from San Diego to Mendocino County, including Healdsburg’s Barndiva and SingleThread, were awarded the coveted honor Tuesday.
The Michelin Guide canceled its 2020 awards because of the pandemic and California wildfires, making this year’s recognition even more notable and much anticipated.
The French tire company’s decisions on which restaurants have earned or lost stars is a closely watched annual ritual that can make or break the reputations of restaurants and chefs. This year’s honorees were appreciative of the attention after a difficult 2020.
“We know how hard it’s been just to open the doors for so many, so to receive this attention is humbling,” said Lukka Feldman, Barndiva’s General Manager. The restaurant has been open for 17 years, and this is its first Michelin star. The restaurant had previously won the “Plate Award,” which recognizes “good cooking.”
“It’s just a testimony to how hard everyone has been working,” said Feldman.
Like so many other local restaurants, it’s been a bracing 18-plus months as lockdowns, mask mandates, and a challenging hiring environment put a damper on restaurant dining. Feldman said that the restaurant never closed but simply pivoted to comforting takeout meals in the early days, a jarring welcome to newly-installed chef Jordan Rosas. The Southern Californian chef arrived just weeks before health mandates closed both indoor and outdoor dining. Pastry Chef Neidy Venegas also started working at Barndiva during the pandemic.
The reopening of Barndiva’s outdoor gardens allowed Rosas and Venegas to spread their wings, creating signature dishes that pull from nearby farms, ranches and waters that captured the attention of Michelin’s “Famously Anonymous” inspectors.
“The cooking, as conceived by chef Jordan Rosas, hones in on prime local produce and sustainability. There is a tangible deftness in such aromatic flavor combinations as seared day boat scallops with kohlrabi, grapefruit and lemongrass-ginger butter sauce. Of course, it should be unlawful to forgo the creative goodies from pastry chef Neidy Venegas,” said the inspectors for the 2021 Michelin Guidebook.
Nearby SingleThread retains the elusive three Michelin-star designation, the highest award a restaurant can achieve. Only five other restaurants in the state have the same honor — The French Laundry (Yountville), Atelier Crenn (San Francisco), Benu (San Francisco), Quince (San Francisco) and Manresa (Los Gatos).
“We are so incredibly proud of the team. They have persevered this past year with so much integrity and creativity We really have been so thoughtfully supported by the community and this is a much-appreciated recognition of both our team and for where we draw both our ingredients and inspiration,” said Kyle Connaughton, chef-owner of SingleThread.
Most of the two-star designations were in Southern California, except the far-flung Harbor House in Mendocino, climbing from one to two Michelin stars. Inspectors honored the hyperlocal and foraged ingredients that Chef Matthew Kammerer sources from coastal waters and farms.
“We are delighted to celebrate 19 promotions for restaurants that elevated their quality and consistency despite the challenges of the health crisis and welcome eight new entries to our selection at the star level,” said Gwendal Poullennec, international director of the Michelin Guides.
Notably missing from the stars lineup in Sonoma County are Farmhouse Inn and Madrona Manor, both longtime Michelin favorites. Farmhouse was demoted to a Plate Award. Madrona Manor has been closed for remodeling for months, though a handful of San Francisco restaurants did receive stars despite lengthy closures.
Sonoma County now only has two restaurants with Michelin stars, down significantly from years past as the guidebook expands beyond its traditional favoritism of French cuisine and major metropolitan cities. Sonoma County has no two-starred restaurants.
This year sees far more diversity with the inclusion of new Japanese and Southeast Asian restaurants, among other cuisines. It also goes further afield to oft-overlooked restaurants in Sacramento, Santa Barbara, Orange County, Paso Robles, the South Bay and Los Angeles.
Last week, the guidebook announced its newest Bib Gourmand winners, restaurants recognized for value and high-quality food. In Sonoma County, Khom Loi in Sebastopol and Sonoma’s Folktable and Valley Bar + Bottle — all opened during the pandemic — were tapped for the culinary honor.
Check out the full list here.
Here are the other California Michelin Star winners for 2021.
Three Michelin Stars (no changes)
SingleThread (Healdsburg)
The French Laundry (Yountville)
Atelier Crenn (San Francisco)
Benu (San Francisco)
Quince (San Francisco)
Manresa (Los Gatos)
Two Michelin Stars
New for 2021
Harbor House (Elk -promotion from one MICHELIN Star)
Addison (San Diego – promotion from one MICHELIN Star)
Birdsong (San Francisco – promotion from one MICHELIN Star)
Hayato (Los Angeles – promotion from one MICHELIN Star)
Mélisse (Santa Monica – New two MICHELIN Star)
See list for those retaining 2 stars outside of the North Bay
One Michelin Star
New for 2021
Adega (San Francisco – Promotion to one MICHELIN Star)
Avery (San Francisco – Promotion to one MICHELIN Star)
Bell’s (Santa Barbara – Promotion from New Discovery)
Gucci Osteria da Massimo Bottura (Los Angeles – New one MICHELIN Star)
Jeune et Jolie (San Diego – New one MICHELIN Star)
Knife Pleat (Orange County – Promotion from New Discovery)
Marlena (San Francisco – Promotion from New Discovery)
Morihiro (Los Angeles – New one MICHELIN Star)
Niku Steakhouse (San Francisco – New one MICHELIN Star)
O’ by Claude Le Tohic (San Francisco – New one MICHELIN Star)
Pasjoli (Santa Monica – Promotion from New Discovery)
Pasta | Bar (Los Angeles – Promotion from New Discovery)
Phenakite (Los Angeles – Promotion from New Discovery)
Selby’s (San Francisco – Promotion from New Discovery)
Six Test Kitchen (Paso Robles – Promotion from New Discovery)
Soichi (San Diego – Promotion from New Discovery)
Sushi | Bar Montecito (Santa Barbara – Promotion from New Discovery)
Sushi I-NABA (Los Angeles – Promotion from New Discovery)
Sushi Shin (San Francisco – New one MICHELIN Star)
Sushi Tadokoro (San Diego – Promotion from New Discovery)
The Shota (San Francisco – New one MICHELIN Star)
See list of those retaining one stars
After selling Wishbone last January, Miriam Donaldson was ready to embrace a new career in herbal healing, far from the hot stoves and stress of running her popular Petaluma restaurant.
Now, the tireless chef, busser, expediter, butcher, baker and candlestick lighter has once again tied on her apron at the longtime cafe she runs with husband Josh Norwitt and daughter Poppy.
The U-turn came about earlier this month when the new tenant for the space Wishbone occupied, Stephane Saint Louis and Steven Vargas with their restaurant Table Culture Provisions, decided it wasn’t a good fit for their fledgling eatery. After six months in the location and two months of remodels, they are moving on.
“At the end of the day, it wasn’t the right space and they were looking for something different,” Donaldson said.
With two years left on their lease, Donaldson said they’ll continue at the location, offering morning treats, community gatherings and the old Wishbone vibe for the foreseeable future.
“It’s nice to be back. I know how to be here,” Donaldson said during brunch service last Sunday. The former 3 Cooks location on Petaluma Boulevard has become a neighborhood favorite with offbeat, comforting dishes that draw from local farms and Donaldson’s signature sass, like the Hot Mess, a dish of polenta with kale, kimchi and other pickled ingredients.
Saint Louis and Vargas, whose restaurant was gaining serious traction for upscale farm-to-table dishes, are planning to move to another recently vacated Petaluma restaurant location.
Once there, they will partner with Asombrosa Farm in Petaluma, a 65-acre plot with a 7,000-square-foot barn. Table Culture Provisions will have a small culinary garden and vineyard, according to Saint Louis. Details are still few on the reopening of Table Culture Provisions, but Saint Louis called the farm partnership a “dream situation.”
Wishbone is at 841 Petaluma Blvd. N., open 9 a.m. to 1 p.m. Friday through Sunday, with additional hours and changes posted at facebook.com/wishbonepetaluma
The Sonoma County Veg Fest takes place from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. this Sunday, Sept. 26, at the Santa Rosa Veterans Memorial Building. The celebration of vegan food is a chance to meet forward-thinking vendors who are advocating for compassionate, healthy and environmentally responsible living, according to organizers.
Eclipse nondairy frozen desserts will have soft serve sweets; other vendors include Taco Sagrado Vegan Tacos, Vegan Hood Chefs, Fourteen Magpies jams and preserves, Sporgy Mushroom Jerky, Morning Ritual Bakery, Biey Leaf Vegan Chef, Wellnut Farms, Coffee and Cumin Bakery and Jewels of the Forest Farms. $10 entry, 1351 Maple Ave. Santa Rosa. socovegfest.org
Once upon a time in Sonoma, tasting rooms poured samples of their wines for free. Complimentary. Gratis.
That was a quarter-century or so ago, when “wine tasting” was not yet a thing here and wine consumption wasn’t common throughout the U.S. A running joke among winemakers was that perhaps they should pay people to try their wines. It had little to do with quality and almost everything to do Americans’ hesitancy to drink wine, let alone understand it.
Over the years, tastings went from free to $5, with a free glass with a logo; then to $10, with a finer piece of stemware to take home and perhaps a basket of French bread and a plate of cheese. Today, $20-$25 tastings, without food (nor freebie glass) are so prevalent they don’t raise eyebrows with guests. Napa Valley remains king when it comes to expensive tastings — rather, experiences — yet Sonoma wineries are catching up, with small bites, box lunches, full meals, private cabanas, vineyard hikes and tastings of library wines sending per-person fees into the $100-and-up stratosphere.
But what about the rest of us? What’s a budget-minded wine taster to do? Thank goodness, there still are a handful of Sonoma wineries whose basic tastings are complimentary, and many more that charge reasonable fees ($20 or less). Some even waive the cost if you buy a full bottle or two.
Here are 10 tasting venues with affordable fees or freebies. Keep in mind that pandemic protocols remain in place. These wineries explain their COVID-19 regulations on their websites, which include making appointments, masking and whether tastings are conducted indoors or out.
(The Sonoma County Vintners trade group has partnered with Visa Signature and Visa Infinite to offer buy-one, get-one tasting deals at approximately 50 wineries, if you use one of those credit cards. Visit sonomawine.com/visa-signature for the list of participating tasting rooms and other perks, among them $1 ground shipping through December.)
This east-of-Healdsburg winery offers a tremendous tasting bang for the buck, or less. The Estate Tasting is free. Tours of the 25,000-square-foot underground cave are free. A sampling of Reserve-tier wines is just $20, and the cost is refunded if you buy one of those wines. Who does this? A winery that was among those that poured complimentary samples decades ago and sees value in continuing to do so.
“We had to charge and take reservations during the shutdown, and after we were allowed to open, we decided to go back to complimentary tasting for four wines and no-charge tours of our caves twice daily,” said Katie Wetzel Murphy, who, with her brother, Hank, operates the vineyards and winery founded by their parents in the 1960s. “It is just something we feel very strongly about as a family.”
Even the splurge experience here is a very fair $60 and includes a guided hike through the vineyards, wine and a boxed lunch (weather permitting).
8644 Highway 128, Healdsburg, 707-433-7209, avv.com
John and Teresa Balletto’s extensive vineyard holdings in the Russian River Valley afford winemaker Anthony Beckman many choices of grape varieties, vineyards and specific blocks within vineyards. Sauvignon blanc, pinot gris, gewürztraminer and rosé receive the same loving care as chardonnay, pinot noir and sparkling wine, all produced from Balletto vines.
Four of them are served at the Estate Tasting Experience, a fine value at $15. So is the $20 Reserve Tasting Experience of five wines, including block and vineyard designates. Across the board, the wines are excellent and fairly priced, from $20 to $48.
5700 Occidental Road, Santa Rosa, 707-568-2455, ballettovineyards.com
Fred and Nancy Cline started Cline Family Cellars in 1982, in Oakley in northeastern Contra Costa County. There, on the banks of the Sacramento-San Joaquin River Delta, grow ancient zinfandel, mourvedre and carignane grapevines in soils so sandy it’s hard to believe they can support green growth.
The Clines tapped these vines for their wines and 1989 moved their business to southern Sonoma Valley/Carneros, where they planted chardonnay, viognier, pinot noir and syrah and opened a tasting room in a 1850s farmhouse. Tastings are only outside for now, with five-wine flights priced at $15. Ponds and a sea of rose bushes add color to the tranquil grounds.
24737 Arnold Drive, Sonoma, 800-546-2070, clinecellars.com
Bill Frick was cool years before the current wave of Sonoma and Mendocino winemakers discovered the pleasures of wines made from carignane, cinsaut, counoise, grenache, syrah, mourvedre and viognier grapes.
Bill and his wife, Judith Gannon, started Frick Winery in 1976 in a remote spot near Geyserville. They bought 7.7 acres of land in Dry Creek Valley and planted the previously mentioned Rhône grapes, not because the varieties were popular, but because they were what the Fricks wanted to drink and sell.
Forty-five years later, Bill Frick remains dedicated to what were once oddball wines for Sonoma, doing all the work himself and welcoming those willing to make the drive to his remote tasting room for complimentary tastings. Open on weekends only, Frick Winery is well worth making an appointment, to taste with the man behind the wines. Zero frills, lots of tasting thrills.
23072 Walling Road, Geyserville, 707-484-3950, frickwinestore.com
San Francisco firefighter Cecil De Loach and his wife, Christine, founded De Loach Vineyards in 1975, planting pinot noir on Olivet Road and farming old-vine zinfandel at their nearby Barbieri Ranch. They sold De Loach in 2003 and restarted with Hook & Ladder, also on Olivet Road, eventually installing grandson Jason De Loach as winemaker.
Pinot noir remains a staple at Hook & Ladder, though the family’s Los Amigos Ranch vineyard in Chalk Hill contributes Bordeaux red varieties to the winemaking mix. The Cadet tasting of five wines ($20) is a solid introduction to the winery: Estate Rosé of Pinot Noir, Olivet Ranch Sauvignon Blanc, Estate Pinot Noir, Estate Chalk Hill Merlot and Estate Chalk Hill Cabernet Franc. Or upgrade to the Captain tasting flight ($30) of five limited-production wines, among them Sparkling Rosé de Noirs, Aquarius Ranch Chardonnay, Severson Ranch Pinot Noir, Simeone Ranch Pinot Noir and Los Amigos Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon.
2134 Olivet Road, Santa Rosa, 707-526-2255, hookandladderwinery.com
Reservations are a must to taste at Korbel, which has produced “California Champagne” since 1882 and continues to use “Champagne” on its labels, to the great consternation of French Champagne makers.
The Marketplace tasting of three wines is generously complimentary, and $10 buys the four-wine Discovery tasting of sparkling, still and sweet wines. For those frothing for fizz, the All Bubbles tasting of five wines ($15) is a good deal. COVID-19 issues continue to hinder Korbel’s tours of its historic cellars and gorgeous gardens, though the Deli & Marketplace have reopened, for outdoor dining and takeout.
13250 River Road, Guerneville, 707-824-7000, korbel.com
Fifteen bucks buys a lot of deliciousness at this Petaluma tasting room, particularly for those who favor sweet and after-dinner wines. Sit outside at the old Foundry Wharf building on the Petaluma River and savor founder/winemaker Bill Reading’s port-style wines, those infused with natural chocolate flavoring, sherries and grappas.
DECO, an 18% alcohol, spirit-fortified dessert wine with a subtle yet distinctive dark chocolate flavor, is a great mate for chocolate-y sweets. ARIS is a port-like blend of zinfandel, grenache and alicante bouchet, boosted by the addition of a distilled spirit. Six sweeties are poured, plus tastes of Sonomic Red and Sonomic Gold Almost Vinegar, culinary condiments are that richer and less acidic than most vinegars.
613 Second St., Petaluma, 707-769-5203, portworks.com
For a tasting on the wild side, there is Spicy Vines, a downtown Healdsburg tasting room that pours wines with friendly names such as Sunnydaze Sauvignon Blanc, Dragon’s Kiss Syrah and Violet Rose Rosé.
Crystalyn Hoffman founded the brand in 2011. Three years later, she partnered, matrimonially and business-wise, with winemaker Doug Hackett. A five-wine flight is $15, the Reserve flight (with chardonnay, pinot noir and two cabernet sauvignons) $25. It’s more than a tasting room and also serves wine-based cocktails, beer, cider and cocktails, charcuterie boards and panini.
441 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, 707-927-1065, spicyvines.com
After closing its downtown Geyserville tasting room in April 2000, per Gov. Gavin Newsom’s statewide order, the Meeker family moved tastings to their winery in Healdsburg, a few blocks from the Plaza and next door to Longboard Vineyards. A sit-down tasting area was carved out of the cellar, surrounded by in-use fermentation tanks and barrels, and an outdoor space gives visitors the sights and smells of just-harvested grapes beginning their journey to fermented wine.
Winemaker Lucas Meeker produces a wide range of wines — something for everyone — with rosés, grenache, merlot and “pet nat” sparklers among the stars. As many as eight wines are poured in a $20 tasting, with the fee waived when you buy one bottle.
5 Fitch St., Unit B, Healdsburg, 707-431-2148, meekerwine.com
With his vineyard in the Moon Mountain District of the Mayacamas mountains and his tasting room on the valley floor below, in Kenwood, Ty Caton’s Classic Tasting Experience, at $20, is a cool way to sample hillside-grown red wines for a reasonable price.
Caton uses grapes from his family’s 40-acre Caton Vineyard for all his wines and produces a whopping nine vineyard-designated cabernet sauvignons in some vintages. Merlot, petite sirah and syrah might also appear in the tasting, as well as Tytanium, a blend of six red grapes grown in the vineyard. The Caton Cabernet Collection Experience is $30, focused on block-specific cabernet sauvignons.
8910 Sonoma Highway, Kenwood, 707-938-3224, tycaton.com
A good barbecued brisket is the most primal of foods, smokey and charred, with soft pads of melted fat that make our necks go limp with joy, our faces raised to the heavens with happiness. At least that’s what mine does, because a well-cooked brisket is a thing of wonder worth an amen any day.
As the founder of Austin’s Southern Smoke BBQ, Kris Austin is among the faithful believers of investing time in worth-the-wait barbecue, turning the muscly cut of beef into a soulful Texas-style, smoke-ringed slice of joy with the proper Southern ratio of fat to meat, meaning just enough but not too much. After 12 hours of white oak and almond wood smoke and 10 hours of resting, it’s just about right and ready to serve at his pop-up restaurant at Old Possum Brewing in Santa Rosa each Monday (although not Monday, Sept. 27).
Growing up in Kansas City, Memphis and Texas, I got to know the stark differences in the barbecue of each place. Texas barbecue is dry-rubbed, the others heavily mopped with sweet-tangy tomato-based sauce. They all have their merits, but Texas brisket, cut from the breast area of the steer, is my favorite. And no, tri-tip, cut from the other end of the steer and a favorite of Californians, is not brisket, so stop telling me it’s the same thing.
In addition to brisket, sourced from Joe Matos heritage-raised beef in Santa Rosa, Austin smokes pork and ribs and offers sweet cornbread, collard greens with smoked turkey, coleslaw and other weekly specials. Don’t expect super-saucy barbecue, because that’s not Austin’s style.
“I don’t over-sauce, because too much sauce is hiding something,” he said.
The Mississippi-born Austin has barbecue in his soul. He learned the craft from his mother, aunts and uncles. As with any good apprentice, it took years for the tongs to pass to Austin, but like golf or food writing, you never really master it. You just keep working at it.
“I’ve been around barbecue pits from 10 years old. As a family, we processed our own hogs and got our own food. The only thing we bought from the store is milk, flour and sugar,” he said.
Austin isn’t the old-school pitmaster with a filthy apron and beer belly. He’s a personal trainer with a passion for barbecue run amok. As his fitness clients dried up during the pandemic, he decided to make the leap to barbecue catering after rave reviews about his cooking from friends and family.
That led to a Monday takeover at Old Possum, where Chef Carlos Rosas of Barrio Fresca Cocina Mexicana recently set up a cafe operating nightly out of the taproom’s kitchen.
It’s a leap of faith, but Austin believes whatever’s in store is for the best.
“God hasn’t let me down yet. When he’s closed a window, he’s opened a door,” he said.
For now, Austin is sticking to private catering, his Monday pop-up and taproom events, though he hopes to open a brick-and-mortar location or purchase a food truck in the future.
Like any good pitmaster, when he sells out, he sells out for the day, so go early.
Overall: Excellent Texas-style barbecue from a passionate pitmaster who knows his way around brisket and pork butts. The dishes are always a work in progress for this first-time chef, but Austin’s ’que is the real deal and worth a visit.
Austin’s menu is brief but incorporates flavors from the South and California and inspiration from Rosas’ Barrio menu.
Nachos, Loaded Pork ($18) or brisket ($20): Juicy pulled pork floats above a raft of tortilla chips, black beans and straight-up ballpark nacho sauce (cause it’s freaking good). Sweet homemade barbecue sauce and a squeeze of citrusy chimichurri that adds dimension.
BBQ Bowl, Pork ($18) or brisket ($20): This is the most fusion dish, a mix of Barrio’s black rice and Chile Seco with Austin’s barbecued meat on top. Dark chocolate and smoked chili flavors of the seco echo the smoked meat for a rich, savory, earthy bowl. I’d love to see a side a sweet or vinegary sauce just to balance things out.
Combo Plate ($38): Brisket, pulled pork (some weeks it’s ribs), with collard greens, coleslaw and a cornbread muffin. This is the best way to see what Austin is working with. We loved the juicy pulled pork with crispy bits and melted fat. Austin adds a dash of his creamy vinegar sauce for an extra bump. Collard greens are legit but could use just a touch more vinegar and salt. Sweet cornbread muffins are a taste of home.
While you’re there, try out Old Possum Brewing’s lineup of tasty beers on tap. The covered patio is nicely spaced out, and dogs are welcome.
Austin’s Southern Smoke Barbecue, 11:30 a.m. to 8 p.m. Mondays, except Sept. 27. 357 Sutton Place, Santa Rosa, austinssouthernsmokebbq.com
Three Sonoma County restaurants are the latest additions to the California Michelin Guide’s Bib Gourmand category, which includes restaurants recognized for value and high-quality food. The coveted Michelin stars, awarded to fine dining establishments, will be announced on Sept. 28.
Khom Loi in Sebastopol and Sonoma’s Folktable and Valley Bar + Bottle — all opened during the pandemic — were tapped for the culinary honor this morning, taking even the restaurants’ chefs by surprise. Most had not heard about the win until contacted by reporters.
After taking a year off in 2020, the French tire company known for its international dining guides has returned with this preliminary list of 45 exceptional restaurants offering two courses and a glass of wine or dessert for around $40 or less (tax and gratuity not included).
Inclusion into the Bib Gourmand category in a restaurant’s first or second year is never an easy feat, considering the ever-expanding list of contenders in the dining scene. This year’s winners also faced the daunting challenges of navigating mask mandates and other pandemic regulations, staff and supply chain shortages, as well as skittish diners — in addition to the usual hurdles of opening a new restaurant.
Sebastopol’s Khom Loi, the second restaurant for Ramen Gaijin owners Matthew Williams and Moishe Hahn-Schuman, was inspired by extensive travels in Thailand. The food is their take on the Southeast Asian cuisine, with perfumed curries, lush seafood, sticky rice and spicy chili peppers. Opening in the thick of the pandemic last February, the duo built a temporary tent as health regulations fluctuated, despite having a semi-enclosed outdoor space. Like other restaurateurs, they struggled to hire staff as many servers and cooks changed careers or opted to collect unemployment rather than return to jobs that generally pay low wages. Williams and Hahn-Schuman also separated with founding partner Lowell Sheldon in July.
Despite these challenges, tables continue to be booked well in advance at Khom Loi and the response to the new restaurant has been positive, Williams said, the Bib Gourmand frosting on the cake.
“This is a really nice validation of the hard work and sacrifice everyone on our team made this past year to open Khom Loi under the tough specter of the pandemic. We’re humbled and excited for the challenge of living up to the expectations and making the restaurant better each day,” Williams said.
Top Chef finalist and restaurateur Casey Thompson opened Folktable at Cornerstone Sonoma in early 2021 with a limited takeout menu that only hinted what the restaurant would later become. A sprawling indoor cafe and an expansive patio amid the magnificent gardens and shops of the Sonoma marketplace came to life in late spring with the arrival of chef de cuisine Melanie Wilkerson, who delivered a signature menu that ranges from nibbly starters like tomato and peach salad to Japanese-inspired tater tots, Sonoma hot fried chicken and spicy poke.
“Michelin Guide’s Bib Gourmand announcement is an incredible accomplishment for Folktable. The whole team has worked so hard to not only open safely during the pandemic, but to create a vibrant community gathering space alongside our beautiful, seasonal dishes. We are gratified, humbled and immensely honored to see our vision recognized by such a prestigious international institution,” said Casey Thompson, Folktable Consulting Executive Chef and Director of Culinary Development for Sonoma’s Best Hospitality Group.
Valley Bar + Bottle in downtown Sonoma soft-opened last July with fanfare about the young owners’ cool vibe, carefully crafted food and thoughtful wine selections, but gained traction when it was named one of the best bars in America by Esquire Magazine in June. Co-owner Lauren Feldman did not respond to requests for comment.
Bib Gourmand winners are re-assessed each year, according to organizers, but can be dropped if the restaurant no longer meets the criteria. Wine Country Bib Gourmand winners in 2019 included Backyard (closed), Bravas, Chalkboard, Ciccio, Cook St. Helena, Diavola, El Molino Central, Farmstead, Glen Ellen Star, Grace’s Table, Gran Electrica, La Calenda, Oenotri, Ramen Gaijin, Redd Wood (closed), Risibisi and Stockhome.
This year’s newcomers spanned a breadth of California cuisines and locales rather than focusing exclusively on San Francisco, Wine Country and Los Angeles, with picks in Sacramento, San Diego, Santa Barbara and the Central Coast and the oft-overlooked North Coast, where Marin-based Tony’s Seafood restaurant in Marshall also was recognized.
ASA South (San Francisco): The kitchen manages to infuse a bit of fun into its repertoire of serious food. There’s something for everyone on this wide-reaching carte, especially if you love fish which is sustainably harvested.
Bee Taqueria (Los Angeles): This casual taqueria with serious focus and creative style arrives courtesy of the talented chef Alex Carrasco. Tacos, ceviche and tostadas reign supreme on the menu, which draws culinary inspiration from the chef’s childhood in Mexico City.
Bettina (Santa Barbara): After making a match at New York City’s Roberta’s, Brendan Smith and Rachel Greenspan took their pizza-powered love affair to the West Coast, leaving bohemian Brooklyn for a gleaming perch in the Montecito Country Mart.
Callie (San Diego): The cuisine takes advantage of the best ingredients SoCal has to offer in highly shareable dishes featuring the bold, sunny flavors of the Mediterranean. Vegetables and seafood steal the show, with spice as a key supporting character.
Cesarina (San Diego): Most of the menu is mix-and-match, with a selection of pasta shapes and sauces that can be paired to your liking. Those on a quest for indulgence should look no further than the truffled gnocchi with a cream sauce, served in its own copper pot.
CHAAK Kitchen (Orange County): The team behind these stoves swimmingly brings the vibrant smoke-and-spice-focused cuisine of the Yucatán Peninsula to life.
Chifa (Los Angeles): Chifa is the term used by Peruvians to refer to “Chinese restaurant.” The succinct menu pulls from family recipes and childhood memories to pack in flavor at every twist and turn.
Ciccia Osteria (San Diego): Set in a converted home in the heart of Barrio Logan, this adorable osteria is a true family operation. Francesca Penoncelli, who hails from Turin, leads the kitchen, along with her husband Mario Casineri, a Milan native.
Colapasta (Santa Monica): Nestled into a breezy locale just a few blocks from the Pacific, this modern trattoria packs a big culinary punch, thanks largely to the considerable talents of chef Stefano De Lorenzo.
Corazon Cocina (Santa Barbara): The Santa Barbara Public Market is full of alluring eateries, but after your first taste of this charming taco stand, you’ll want to pledge your heart. Chef and owner Ramon Velazquez mastered the craft of handmade tortillas and zesty salsas.
Dija Mara (San Diego): You’ll find some serious Indonesian cooking here. Excellent nasi goreng combines fried rice with shrimp, pork belly, chicken and the yolk of a sunny egg, while charred eggplant with smoked tomato sambal and crispy fried shallots is a textural and flavor-forward delight.
Dumpling Home (San Francisco): This casual eatery excels in the delicate art of soup dumplings, which arrive with supple skins and spoonfuls of delicious broth far clearer and more distilled than most.
Fable & Spirit (Orange County): The room is packed with an unmistakable hum of happy diners diving into delicious pub grub. You’ll want to order the Guinness brown bread which is an absolute delight, especially paired with plump P.E.I. mussels bathed in a thyme butter.
FOB Kitchen (San Francisco): This popular Filipino restaurant began as a pop-up. The menu is loaded with keepers, but keep your options open for tantalizing specials, such as sweet and sour sinigang with pork, eggplant and daikon or Janice’s ribs.
Heritage Barbecue (Orange County): Punctuality is of the essence as everyone is here, early and eager, for chef and owner, Daniel Castillo’s food. His creations draw inspiration from central Texas, so when that sweet scent of California white oak gets going, find yourself transported on a riotous journey, starting with slices of glistening brisket.
Horn Barbecue (San Francisco): Arrive early to this local sensation from pitmaster Matt Horn as there is bound to be a wait. It’s well worth your time though, as the chef’s “West Coast Barbecue” complete with inspiration is nothing less than rich, delicious and decadent.
iTalico (Palo Alto): The menu here is concise and well-edited, but there are some winning dishes. Start things off right with the salumi and cheese extravaganza before moving on to carpaccio, burrata or tonno crudo.
Jiang Nan Spring (Los Angeles): This spot’s Shanghainese focus makes it a valuable addition to the San Gabriel Valley. Sweet vinegars and fresh seafood figure prominently, most apparent in plates like an irresistible platter of tilapia fried in a tempura-like batter flavored with seaweed.
Kazan (Los Angeles): The name is Japanese for “volcano” and conveniently, this soba-focused spot blows the lid off its competitors. The menu offers many a choice, including a vegetarian option, but the #7 (lamb in lava) is a clear winner.
Khan Saab Desi Craft Kitchen (Orange County): Originally from Pakistan, chef Imran Ali Mookhi displays a certain deftness with spices, flavors, and in his handling of red meat at this South Asian gem.
Konbi (Los Angeles): Konbi is the brainchild of chefs Nick Montgomery and Akira Akuto, who present a unique menu of Japanese sandwiches, product-focused small plates and Proustian pastries.
La Azteca (Los Angeles): This modest counter-service operation has been serving hefty burritos from East LA for many years now. Flour tortillas are made in-house every day in full view of the dining room and boast a kind of richness and chew that others don’t.
Loquita (Santa Barbara): Servers know the menu by heart, so follow their lead and start with tapas like crusty pan con tomate, before digging into hearty chorizo y pollo paella. An homage to the El Bullí olive is a contemporary signature, while carpaccio garnished with pickled mustard seeds and aged sherry vinegar is forever popular.
Los Carnalitos (San Francisco): The two brothers behind this operation, which started as a wildly popular food truck, present delicacies like huaraches and quesadilla de huitlacoche that rarely appear on other menus in town. Here, quesadillas are made from house-made tortillas, so try the one filled with squash blossom, queso fresco and tomatillo salsa.
Luscious Dumplings (Los Angeles): It’s hard to order poorly at this delightful retreat. The menu is concise, with half of the items dedicated to the eponymous specialty.
Mentone (Central Coast): The carte is unusual, unveiling fried sardines with Meyer lemon aioli or white bean soup with chickpeas in a prosciutto broth. Pizzas take the cake, such as the “Pesto” shimmering with fromage blanc, Crescenza, and caciocavallo, or “Sardenaira” with tomato sauce, anchovies and olives.
Morning Glory (San Diego): It’s strictly breakfast and brunch at this spot in San Diego’s Little Italy. It’s all about familiar favorites and of-the-moment meals; hello, avocado toast and shakshuka.
New Dumpling (San Francisco): It is all in the name at this vivacious and cheery spot where dumplings are the star of the show. Watch them being made in the open kitchen, then consult the chalkboard for featured menu items.
Nixtaco (Sacramento): This unassuming taqueria, tucked into a strip mall in Roseville, is a sweet little spot that packs big flavor punch. The salsa bar alone—featuring five outstanding varieties, including a smoky peanut chipotle and tangy salsa verde—is reason enough to warrant a visit.
Oliver’s Osteria Mare e Monti (Orange County): Set just minutes from the Pacific Coast Highway, this Italian gem makes a delightful sight. Chef Erik De Marchi’s menu has something for everyone. He takes a range of familiar dishes and enhances them with an authentic flair.
Pho 79 (Orange County): If you are no stranger to the slurp, then Pho 79 is likely already on your circuit. After all, this place is an institution. Opened in the early 80s, it’s widely considered to ladle some of the best and most praiseworthy pho in Southern California.
Range Life (San Francisco): Tuck into appealing bites like fig toast with a drizzle of olive oil and salt, or delicately fried yellow squash and green tomatoes over toasted pumpkin seeds and basil aioli.
Routier (San Francisco): Belinda Leong and Michel Suas have long been recognized as Bay Area pastry royalty, so naturally, this foray into sit-down dining is a treat. To sweeten the pot even further, they tapped JP Carmona, formerly chef de cuisine at Manresa, to lead the kitchen.
Spinning Bones (San Francisco): On the quaint island of Alameda comes this causal concept from restaurateurs, Mike Yakura and Danny Sterling. Billing itself as a Californian rotisserie, the menu is also strewn with Hawaiian and Japanese accents.
Taquería El Paisa (San Francisco): This Oakland institution is widely hailed as the temple of tacos. Meat is given the starring role here, and offal, including tripe and cabeza, are of special note.
Tacos Oscar (San Francisco): The menu is scrawled in chalk, and while it’s simple—tacos and tostadas—it changes often. Meat, such as the braised pork shoulder topped with an avo-tomatillo salsa and chicharrónes, is a staple; but clever vegan versions, like the charred broccoli with soy-cashew cheese, give animal proteins a run for their money.
Top Hatters Kitchen (San Francisco): Husband-and-wife co-owners Matthew Beavers and DanVy Vu opted to honor this fixture’s former life as a family-owned hat shop by keeping the name. Chef Vu leads the kitchen, and her skillful contemporary combination of Vietnamese and Californian flavors is tantalizing.
Tumbi (Santa Monica: Just a block from the bustle of the Santa Monica Promenade, Tumbi feels worlds away, offering inventive Indian cooking in an industrial-chic setting.
Um.ma (San Francisco): The menu is peppered with Korean classics and served family-style, and it’s as small and inviting as it gets. Transcendent kimchi jjigae arrives bubbling hot with soft tofu, tender pork belly, tangy cabbage and a hearty broth.
WoodSpoon (Los Angeles): It’s clear that hospitality runs through the veins of chef and owner, Natalia Pereira, who originally hails from Brazil. The cozy dining room is lined with framed photographs and wine bottles. The chef’s careful and skilled hand is also evident in her food, which tastes of pure passion.
Yue Huang (Sacramento): This Cantonese restaurant is a hidden treasure. The dim sum selection features the standard array of steamed, baked and fried delights; however, diners are bound to also run across a range of more interesting items.
