A group of Single Thread alums plan to open a modern wine bar in downtown Healdsburg in early 2022 dubbed Maison Healdsburg. Owners Evan and Jade Hufford and Ryan Knowles said diners at the Michelin-starred Single Thread were often interested in having a glass of wine after their meals — sometimes as late as midnight — with little available after hours in town.
“We saw a huge need for a wine bar in Healdsburg. There’s a high demand from diners and the hospitality workers who are dying for somewhere to go,” said Evan Hufford, a professional sommelier who was the opening wine director at Single Thread. His wife, Jade, was a service director at the restaurant and business partner Ryan Knowles, a certified sommelier, was also on the opening team at Single Thread.
They’re banking on that after-hours crowd, with the eyebrow-raising hours of 2 p.m. to 2 a.m. in this sleepy county.
“It will depend on demand,” said Hufford, adding that he’s seen demand growing as vaccine rates increase.
“People are starting to feel good now, and they want to have fun. The three of us felt there was a niche missing for late-night wine in Healdsburg ever since Bergamot Alley closed,” he said.
But it won’t be all Dom Pérignon and Harlan Estate at Maison Healdsburg. The wine bar owners also want to create a space that’s welcoming to anyone who wants a glass of well-curated wine.
“We’ll have some affordable options, and we don’t want to alienate anyone,” Hufford said.
What’s getting buzz, however, is their very proletariat plan to open coveted older bottles — gems that Hufford and his partners love to track down for collectors — and offer tastes by the glass.
“No one would normally do that, but we want people to be able to taste the iconic bottlings of the world without going broke,” he said. They plan to announce those bottle openings on Instagram.
There also will be a teaching component (Hufford teaches at the SF Wine School), to engage locals in learning about global and local wines.
The wine bar will be next door to the forthcoming Lo & Behold (214 Healdsburg Ave.), opening soon at the former Mateo’s Cocina Latina. Former Duke’s Spirited Cocktails partners Laura Sanfilippo and Tara Heffernon are partnering with Chef Sean Raymond Kelley for a small-plates and cocktails lounge.
A rendering of The Madrona in Healdsburg. (Courtesy illustration)
After a lengthy closure and remodel, Healdsburg’s Madrona Manor (now called The Madrona) is aiming for a spring 2022 reopening, according to its new owner, designer Jay Jeffers. That means Michelin-starred chef Jesse Mallgren will be back in the kitchen with a new menu and new point of view for the restaurant.
Gone will be the fussy, dusty Victorian decor that never jived with Mallgren’s forward-thinking culinary prowess. Instead, design renderings show clean lines of banquettes and modern lighting along with a more minimally decorated Palm Terrace outdoor patio and eclectic old-meets-new bar area. Overall, it’s a visual relief that makes the historic building a worthy new destination.
Chef Jesse Mallgren of Madrona Manor in Healdsburg. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
We were a bit curious about menu items promoted in a recent news release as “Signature Dishes” that seem worlds away from Mallgren’s ambitious tasting menus of the past. New dishes include a traditional Chicken Paillard infused with Southeast Asian flavors from Mallgren’s travels in Thailand; Steak Tartare with goma dare, quail egg and fresh wasabi; Local Anchovies cured with Madrona lemons, featuring fennel pollen from the onsite garden and DaVero olive oil from The Madrona’s neighboring farm; and Camomile Roasted Carrots, with nasturtium salsa verde from the garden and rich Manchego cheese.
The veteran chef says he’s excited about the revamped menu that’s more approachable but still elegant. We’ll be eager to see what’s in store.
PORTUGAL: 9 Islands Bakery: Pasteis de Nata, a Portuguese custard pastry, is popular at Christmas. Heather Irwin/PD
Every family has a holiday food tradition, whether it’s lasagna while watching “A Charlie Brown Christmas” or hunting high and low for the most authentic Hungarian poppy seed roll. The smells and flavors of grandma’s house linger in our memories, and more than any other time of year, we crave a little taste of our heritage.
Click through the gallery for some of the holiday dishes from around the world that you can find here in Sonoma County — from potstickers to pavlova — to make the yuletide that much more delicious.
Holiday Tea at Hotel Healdsburg will be held on the Saturdays and Sundays between Dec. 7 – Dec. 22 and will include holiday fare such as house-made pastries and dainty finger sandwiches from Dry Creek Kitchen. Tea service and food is $79 for adults, and tea service with food and wine or cocktails is $93. Food, tea, cider and hot chocolate for children 12 and under is $49. 25 Matheson St., Healdsburg. stayhealdsburg.com
Muir’s Tea Room in Sebastopol will be hosting its annual Winter Woodland Wonderland High Tea on Saturdays and Sundays from Dec. 7-31. The tea service ($74 per person) comes complete with tarts, finger sandwiches, scones and more (plus a matching gluten-free menu which costs $80). There’s also a tea service for children under 12, for $39 per child, with tea or sparkling apple cider along with savory and dessert items. Don’t forget to pick up special holiday tea blends, seasonal bakery items and other holiday gifts for that special tea fanatic in your life. 330 South Main St., Sebastopol, 707-634-6143, muirstearoomandcafe.com.
Mexico — Tamales: A favorite holiday tradition in Mexico, these steamed corn cakes are popular year-round but at the holidays they are even more special. Filled with everything from chicken, pork and cheese to beans, pineapple and even chocolate, they’re perfect for a party of any size. Our favorites are atTamales Mana. For a twist on the usually savory snack, we love tamales with sweet mango salsa atDon Julio’s in Rohnert Park. Tamales Mana, 1110 Petaluma Hill Road, Santa Rosa, 707-595-5742, tamalesmana.com. Don Julio’s, 217 Southwest Blvd., Rohnert Park, 707-242-3160, donjulioslatingrill.com.
Italy — Panettone: Filled with candied fruit, this Italian sweet bread was one of the many reasons to make a trip to the much-missed Traverso’s Deli — but Basque Boulangerie in Sonoma serves up homemade panettone along with brioche Christmas wreaths and challah at the holidays. 460 First St. East, Sonoma, 707-935-7687, basqueboulangerie.com.
Germany — Cakes, Cookies and More: Pfeffernusse cookies and “glüewhein” (a spiced mulled wine) are among the most cherished holiday traditions. European Food Store in Santa Rosa has holiday candies, cookies (including pfeffernusse) and boot-stuffers from Germany and Eastern Europe. Franchetti’s Gasthaus has plenty of authentic German treats all-year-round with schnitzel, wurst, vesper cheese and charcuterie plates and much more. European Food Store, 2790 Santa Rosa Ave., Santa Rosa, 707-527-0319, alleuropeanfood.com. Franchetti’s Gasthaus, 1229 N. Dutton Ave., Santa Rosa, 707-526-1229, franchettis.com.
Schnitzel and strudel are traditional German holiday dishes. You can find them on the holiday menu at Franchetti’s Gasthaus in Santa Rosa.
Eastern Europe — Poppy Seed Roulade: At the European Food Store in Santa Rosa, find Eastern European holiday favorites like poppy seed roulade, caviar, smoked fish and imported chocolates. 2790 Santa Rosa Ave., Santa Rosa, 707-527-0319, alleuropeanfood.com.
Sweden — Julbord:Stockhome in Petaluma is your go-to spot for all things Swedish. On Dec. 8 and Dec. 15 at noon and 5 p.m. and Dec. 22 at 5 p.m., they will serve an authentic julbord — a family-friendly meal featuring holiday specialties. There will be a julbord takeout option on Dec. 23 with pickup times from Noon-4 p.m. To learn more about Stockhome’s holiday festivities this year, click here. 220 Western Ave., Petaluma, 707-981-8511, stockhomerestaurant.com.
France — Bûche de Noël: Eating a log might not sound so delicious, but when it’s filled with buttercream and frosted with chocolate? That’s another story. The tradition stems from ancient pagan rites of burning logs to usher in spring, but we like the elaborate versions at Sarmentine Artisan Boulanger in Santa Rosa, Les Pascalsin Kenwood, Patisserie Angelica in Sebastopol and Pascaline Patisserie and Cafe in Forestville. Need a gluten-free version? Check out Sonoma County Cakes made at Zoftig Eatery in Santa Rosa.
More French Holiday Treats: Pastry chef Alexandra Zandzliet of the new Sarmentine Artisan Boulanger in Santa Rosa is offering traditional French holiday sweets, in addition to Bûche de Noël, including pain d’épices (French spice cake) and advent bread studded with 12 different fruits and nuts. 52 Mission Circle, Suite 112, Santa Rosa, 707-623-9595, sarmentine.com.
New Zealand — Pavlova: It’s summer down under during the holidays, just in time for fresh strawberries, raspberries and blueberries that make this light dessert such a holiday favorite. Made with a meringue base, whipped cream and berries, the best spot to find it is BurtoNZ Bakery in Windsor, the only New Zealand-style bakery in the region. 9076 Brooks Road South, Windsor, 707-687-5455, burtonzbakery.com.
Puerto Rico — Sweet Rice Pudding: Coconut, raisins, spices and cloves make this a special rice pudding (arroz con dulce) that’s traditional on the island. You can find it at El Coqui Puerto Rican Cuisine in Santa Rosa. 400 Mendocino Ave., Santa Rosa. 707-542-8868, elcoqui2eat.com.
Ethiopia — D’oro We’t: This spicy chicken stew takes days to prepare, with a mix of African peppers and spices. Long-simmered with garlic and onion, hard-boiled eggs are added to soak up flavor, and it’s typically served with fermented injera bread. Though Ethiopian Christians celebrate on Jan. 7 according to the Orthodox calendar, you can find d’oro we’t any day of the year at Abyssinia in Santa Rosa. 913 4th St., Santa Rosa, 707-568-6455, my-abyssinia.com.
Chinese for Christmas? Many Jewish folks have a favorite holiday tradition of eating Chinese food — often from the only restaurants open on Christmas. It’s also a great way to avoid the kitchen after a day of exhausting present opening. Lately, more and more Chinese restaurants have been closing on Dec. 25, making this jolly night out harder to come by. China Legend in Santa Rosa is one spot that will be open on Christmas Day for sure. City Chopsticks in Petaluma has also been reliably open on Christmas. China Legend, 500 Mission Blvd., Santa Rosa, 707-538-8698, chinalegendsantarosa.com. City Chopsticks, 127 N. McDowell Blvd. Petaluma, 707-763-3083, citychopsticksca.com.
Thailand — Mango Sticky Rice: A traditional South Asian dessert made with fresh mango, glutinous rice and coconut milk, mango sticky rice is often enjoyed on Songkran, the Thai New Year’s holiday in April but is popular during other holidays as well. Tomi Thai Restaurant in Windsor and OSHA Thai BBQ in Petaluma both serve up elegantly plated Mango Sticky Rice that’s a refreshing, delicious ending to any meal. Tomi Thai Restaurant, 426 Emily Rose Circle, Windsor, 707-836-1422, tomithai.com. OSHA Thai BBQ, 1390 N. McDowell Blvd., Unit A, Petaluma, oshathaibbq.com.
Turkey— Baklava: While baklava is a popular dessert to mark the end of Ramadan, this sweet, delicate treat of thin phyllo pastry layered with a honeyed nut mixture can be enjoyed any day of the year. Along with other Turkish holiday delights like dolmas and borek, Real Döner in Petaluma serves heavenly pistachio baklava with the right touch of sweet and crunchy. 307 F St., Petaluma, 707-765-9555, realdoner.net.
India — Kheer: A simple yet wholesome dessert, traditional Indian kheer is a sweet rice pudding commonly found at festivals and on the holidays in India. Himalayan in Windsor offers an old-fashioned and lightly spiced Himalayan-style kheer, and Kafal Restaurant in Santa Rosa has a sweet, refreshing kheer flavored with cardamom. Himalayan, 810 McClelland Drive, Windsor, 707-838-6746, himalayanrestaurantwindsor.com. Kafal Restaurant, 535 Ross St., Santa Rosa, 707-595-3311.
Japan — Kentucky Fried Chicken: Though Christmas isn’t widely celebrated in Japan, KFC is a holiday tradition. Since the 1970s, the “Party Barrel” has attracted lines of eager eaters after a marketing campaign made Kurisumasu ni wa Kentakkii (Christmas with Kentucky) a thing. To follow suit, take your pick among Sonoma County’s eight KFC locations.
Calling all holiday decor fanatics: We’ve picked out a few of our favorite ornaments, made by Sonoma County artisans or sourced from around the world and available in local stores. Buy one of these treasures for your home and gain some festive style plus shop-local pride. Click through the above gallery for details.
Drinking sparkling wine is a year-long ritual for many, yet some save it for end-of-year holidays, most obviously on New Year’s Eve. The time to sip and shop is now, and the choices of Sonoma-made bubbly are many.
Three decades ago, a handful of Sonoma County wineries mastered the time-consuming techniques for making sparklers that mirror the quality and depth of true Champagne, which relies on chardonnay and pinot noir for the base wines and a secondary fermentation in the bottle, called méthode champenoise or méthode traditionnelle.
In the 1980s, Gloria Ferrer Caves & Vineyards, Iron Horse Vineyards, J Vineyards & Winery and Piper Sonoma joined Korbel Champagne Cellars (established 100 years earlier) as power players in the local sparkling wine scene, turning sunny California fruit into wines with brioche and toasty aromas and flavors, a fine bead of tiny bubbles and crackling acidity.
More recently, wines made with less-intensive methods, and/or using nontraditional grape varieties, have burst upon the scene. There are pétillant naturels, or pét-nats, which are bottled while still undergoing a first fermentation and closed with a crown cap instead of a cork. The French call this process méthode ancestral, with the yeast staying in contact with the wine until the cap is removed. Out gushes a fruity, slightly creamy and easy-to-drink sparkler that lacks the complexity of Champagne-like wines yet is crowd-pleasing for its simplicity.
Some wineries apply the charmat method to carbonate their wines in large steel tanks, adding carbon dioxide to create the bubbles. Like pét-nats, these wines are all about the fruit; they are non-fussy yet satisfying, ready to enjoy soon after bottling and typically cost half as much as méthode traditionnelle sparkling wines. Zinfandel, syrah, malbec, sauvignon blanc and gewürztraminer are showing up in Sonoma-produced bubblies, thus expanding the aromas and flavors beyond the more traditional chardonnay and pinot noir.
For holiday-time fizz tasting and bubbly bottle purchases, try these Sonoma wineries. (Click through the above gallery to see the tasting rooms.)
Amista Vineyards
Amista owners Mike and Vicky Farrow had their hearts set on producing sparkling wine when they bought what is now called Morningsong Vineyards in 1999. They added syrah to the chardonnay vines, purchased cabernet sauvignon and zinfandel grapes from others and released their first wines in 2005. Three years later, they launched their sparkling syrah, a relatively bold move in Sonoma yet a long-established tradition in Australia. So besotted with sparkling wines were the Farrows that they created the Amista Sparkling Friends wine club in 2014. Winemaker Ashley Herzberg bottles a wide array of méthode traditionnelle wines for this Dry Creek Valley winery, in addition to still (table) wines. The reserve tasting experience ($40) includes sparkling and still wines.
A bottle of bubbly from Breathless Wines in Healdsburg. (Courtesy of Breathless Wines)
Breathless Wines
Rack & Riddle Custom Wine Services co-founder Rebecca Faust and her sisters, Cynthia Faust and Sharon Cohn, created Breathless Wines to honor their mother, Martha Jane Faust, who died of a rare respiratory condition — but not before teaching her daughters the joy of each breath taken. Unofficial fourth sister, Penny Gadd-Coster, is their winemaker, and her méthode traditionnelle sparklers are fresh and lively, with three new wines introduced in 2021: two single-vineyard blancs de noir from the Robledo Vineyard in Sonoma and a blanc de blancs from the McMinn Vineyard in Russian River Valley. Guests can choose from three different wine flights ($20) and add cheese and charcuterie boxes and caviar for additional costs.
Spain’s Ferrer family came to Sonoma in 1982 and established the first sparkling wine house in Carneros, in 1986. The parent company, Freixenet, was acquired by Henkell and Co. in 2018, although fine fizz continues to flow from this pioneering producer. The “Gloria” nonvintage brut, blanc de noirs and brut rosé are relatively easy to find (and good values at around $22). But head to the tasting room for the more complex, aged Royal Cuvée Brut Late Disgorged Carneros, Anniversary Cuvée and Carneros Cuvée Late Disgorged Brut, Gloria Ferrer’s top-end wines. The Classic Carneros Experience ($34-$45) features four wines, which can also include still chardonnay and pinot noir. Or splurge on the Culinary Wine Pairing ($68-$85) – a multi-course food and wine matching meal available Friday through Sunday.
Sparkling wines at Gloria Ferrer Caves and Vineyards in Sonoma. (Courtesy of Gloria Ferrer Caves and Vineyards)A glass of sparkling wine is poured at Gloria Ferrer Caves and Vineyards in Sonoma. (Jeremy Portje / For The Press Democrat)
Harvest Moon Estate & Winery
Randy Pitts’ family has grown wine grapes in the Russian River Valley since 1976. In 2000, he assumed the farming responsibilities at the 9-acre ranch and began making zinfandel from the ranch. Pitts’ sparkling wine program began in 2003 with gewürztraminer, the lone white grape grown on the estate. Over the next decade, he added small lots of sparkling pinot noir rosé, chardonnay, zinfandel and gewürztraminer. Nearly all the grapes are grown on the estate on Olivet Road, where the tasting room is located. The bubbles are poured on weekends, along with still wines, in six-wine flights ($30).
2198 Olivet Road, Santa Rosa, 707-573-8711, harvestmoonwinery.com
Iron Horse Vineyards
The tasting room at this Sebastopol sparkling wine superstar has an east-facing view of its vineyards, the Mayacamas mountain range and Mt. St. Helena. Fog seeps into this Green Valley of Russian River Valley site morning and evening, refreshing the grapes, yet the days can be gloriously sunny for sipping Champagne-quality bubblies and taking in the visuals. As outstanding as the Sterling family’s sparkling wines are – and there are more than a dozen of them, some with charity fundraising ties – tastings ($30) are reasonably priced and outdoors, casual and non-fussy, and staged in front of a redwood barn-style building. Spitting sampled wines down the hill is not only OK, it’s encouraged for those driving, although it’s so very difficult to not swallow these elegant, refined wines. Seated tastings in a gazebo are also offered ($50).
The Bubble Room at J Vineyards and Winery in Healdsburg. (Courtesy of J Vineyards and Winery)
J Vineyards & Winery
Judy Jordan and her father, Tom Jordan of Jordan Winery, founded J Wine Co. in 1986 for the express purpose of producing Champagne-style wines. Judy later took over the business and with her then-winemaker, Oded Shakked, vaulted J to the top tier of U.S. sparkling wine houses. E. & J. Gallo purchased J in 2015 and has continued to offer stylish wines and a fine visitor experience, with an emphasis on wine and food pairings. The J Bubble Room’s five-course tasting menu, matched with Nicole Hitchcock’s winery-only and older-vintage wines, is not to be missed ($150). The Legacy Tasting ($35) offers a five-wine, all-sparkler flight, and one of a mix of sparkling and still wines; add cheeses for an extra $15. The standup, Signature Bar Tasting ($25) is an affordable way to start. The Cuvee XB Extra Brut, not available in stores, is arguably J’s most food-friendly sparkler, dry and bracing.
11447 Old Redwood Highway, Healdsburg, 888-594-6326, jwine.com
Korbel Champagne Cellars
This is the oldest continually operating sparkling wine house in North America, established in 1882. That history gives Korbel the legal right to use the term “California Champagne” on its labels, even though the wines are not from Champagne, France. They’re produced in Guerneville, from grapes sourced from Sonoma and throughout California. The brut, rosé, blanc de blancs and blanc de noirs sparklers are ubiquitous in supermarkets, yet visits to the winery are still recommended. Not only does the staff pour winery-only reserve bubbles and still wines, the three-wine Market Tasting is complimentary, and the all-bubbles flight is just $15 for five wines. Sip a sense of history at Korbel.
13250 River Road, Guerneville, 707-824-7316, korbel.com
Visitors enjoy a glass of champagne at Korbel Winery in Guerneville. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)La Prenda Wines tasting room in Sonoma. (Robbi Pengelly/Index-Tribune)
La Prenda Wines
Ned Hill, proprietor of La Prenda Vineyard Management, farms multiple sites within Sonoma Valley. A few years ago, he began producing wines from his clients’ grapes and selling them under the Sonoma Collection and La Prenda labels. In 2021, Ned and his wife, Erika, opened a tasting room in Sonoma, where their Sonoma Coast Brut Rosé, Carneros Pétillant-Naturel and Secco North Coast Brut are poured and sold, along with a wide range of still wines. Five-wine flights are $20.
Fizz runs through the veins of Longboard owner and winemaker Oded Shakked. A former sparkling winemaker at J Vineyards & Winery, he founded his own business in 1998. While syrah, malbec, pinot noir, rosé and sauvignon blanc are foundation wines at Longboard, Shakked’s love of bubbles is evident in his Healdsburg tasting room (the Surf Lounge). There, methode traditionnelle brut, brut rosé and a scintillating Brut Z are likely to be poured for those seeking sensational sparklers. Tastings are just $20, and the fee is refundable when two or more bottles are purchased. Cheese and charcuterie items are available for purchase. The tasting room will be closed Dec. 24-Jan. 6 for vacation and renovation.
Winter in Sonoma County may be mild relatively speaking but there are days and — especially — nights when Jack Frost’s nipping and all you want to do is snuggle up by a crackling fireplace with a hot drink and a warm, comforting meal.
Thankfully, there are plenty of restaurants here that serve up great food with a side of cozy winter vibes, offering respite from the chilly world outside. Some have fireplaces and those that don’t make up for it with a warm, welcoming environment, candle-light ambiance, comfy furnishings and comfort food that warm the spirit.
If you’d like to dine outdoors, many restaurants have heat lamps and blankets to keep you warm; some, like Wit & Wisdom in Sonoma, Hopmonk Tavern in Sebastopol and Brewsters Beer Garden in Petaluma, even have fire pits.
Here are a few of our favorite cozy restaurants and cafes for cold winter days in Sonoma County. (Click through the above gallery for photos of the restaurants.)
Catelli’s
Stepping into Catelli’s restaurant in Geyserville is like being transported to a rustic villa in the Italian countryside. There are elegant touches, like the black and white marble adorning the back patio and bathrooms, but the cushioned chairs and finished wood features in the dining room lends the restaurant a casual, cozy atmosphere. A large cobblestone fireplace adds extra warmth to the indoor space, while heaters and covered cabanas on the patio keep alfresco diners toasty and dry. This is a nice place for a romantic dinner or a gathering of family and friends, with authentic Italian cuisine (order the lasagna), a long list of excellent local wines and the kind of hometown hospitality that makes you feel all warm and fuzzy.
This trendy restaurant on Fourth Street is more than just a cozy place to eat. Located in what looks like a residential house, the restaurant is divided into different rooms. The decor is sleek with plush taupe and leather dining chairs and light cream colored walls, but the atmosphere is home-like; reminiscent of a London gastropub. Vintage artwork, contemporary light fixtures and a tiled fireplace add to the sophisticated yet laidback vibe. The menu is an unlikely mix of Jewish comfort foods, Southern classics and Korean fare and the dishes, most of them shareable, are artfully executed. Order the Warm Pretzel Bread topped with everything bagel spice and a side of creamy whipped labneh — the warm, pillowy bread with a flavorful, golden and crunchy crust pairs well with cold winter nights.
Bird and the Bottle in Santa Rosa. (Alvin Jornada/The Press Democrat)Wood grilled Gulf shrimp, grits and potatoes at Bird and The Bottle in Santa Rosa. (Heather Irwin/The Press Democrat)
Brew
If you find yourself reminiscing about childhood winter days spent drinking hot cocoa and playing boardgames with friends, then Brew is the place to recreate those moments. This welcoming cafe has hot cocoa made with TCHO chocolate, high quality teas by the pot and seasonal selections of Ritual Coffee Roasters fresh coffee that can be paired with pastries from Village Bakery — muffins, scones, chocolate chip cookies and more. For breakfast and lunch, there’s avocado toast, burritos, wraps, sandwiches, macro bowls and other wholesome dishes made with locally-sourced ingredients. Come for the Ginger Cardamom Latte and belly-warming Baked Oatmeal; stay for the homey feel and riveting rounds of Yahtzee. And, because you’re now a grownup, you can also order a beer.
Located in Santa Rosa’s Historic Railroad Square, Stark’s Steak & Seafood restaurant does cozy old-school style. Slide into a leather seat, order a dry martini and dine on high-quality beef and sustainable seafood in a dining room that makes you feel like you’re in an episode of Mad Men. A brick-ensconced fireplace adds to the ambiance. This is a popular spot for happy hour Monday to Friday (3-6 p.m.) with well-crafted classic cocktails and top-notch bites like tuna tartar taco, prime rib banh mi, potato skin fondue, BBQ oysters and truffle fries.
Romantic dim lighting, chicken roasting over an open fire and an invitingly warm atmosphere — owners Mark and Terri Stark hit the cozy mark again with this Montgomery Village gem. Enjoy a gourmet meal inside under dreamy bulbous lights, or dine outside on the spacious patio beneath toasty heat lamps — lap blankets and seat cushions provide extra warmth on particularly cold nights. The Mediterranean menu includes wholesome and comforting dishes like Smoked Salmon Rillettes with dill crème fraiche and Grilled Lamb Burger with feta cheese and cucumber tzatziki; it’s the kind of food that works well on a winter day whether you’re in southern Europe or in Wine Country.
Tea cups on a shelf during at The Tudor Rose English Tea Room in Santa Rosa. (Beth Schlanker/The Press Democrat)
Tudor Rose English Tea Room
This hidden gem in downtown Santa Rosa — an authentic tea room fit for a queen — transports you to the British Isles with vintage and antique decor, delicate tea sets and servers dressed to the nines in traditional English garb. You’ll feel like a royal — and very cozy and snug — as you sip on a spot of tea and nibble on crumpets in the Victorian couch near the fireplace. All high tea selections include an endless pot of tea, from the traditional (Earl Grey, English Breakfast) to the more extravagant (like the James Bon tea with chocolate chips and coconut flakes), and come with treats like tea sandwiches and scones and more substantial comfort dishes like chicken pot pie. You’ll be so immersed in all things British you might just walk away speaking the Queen’s English.
Situated in Sonoma’s boutique El Dorado Hotel on the downtown plaza, this restaurant serves up seasonal, farm-to-table cuisine in upscale yet relaxed surroundings. The main dining room is elegant and Wine Country-chic, but the private fireplace lounge is where you’ll want to go for group brunches and intimate gatherings. The refined decor, cozy atmosphere and accommodating service make this a great place for creative cocktails by the fire, such as the Jalapeño Business with chest-warming jalapeño tequila, orange liqueur and lime. Before or after your meal, take a stroll on the Sonoma plaza, which offers holiday cheer in December with festive lights and gift shopping.
A winter cocktail at El Dorado Hotel & Kitchen on the Sonoma Square. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)Sonoma’s downtown plaza in December. (Kent Porter/The Press Democrat)
The Girl & The Fig
This classic Sonoma restaurant has the feeling of a French country townhouse and serves bistro fare with a California twist in a quaint and homey dining room. There are vintage touches throughout: An antique bar greets customers by the entrance; retro light fixtures and colorful artwork decorate the walls. Sink down into a cushioned seat indoors and order Chef Jeremy Zimmerman’s three-course plats du jour (the menu changes every Thursday) with a wine flight (the menu focuses on Rhone-style wines); or dine outdoors under cozy string lights on the secluded patio.
The aroma of pizza and garlic bread wafts from the kitchen, through corridors and greets customers in the stairwell leading up to Old Chicago, located on the second floor in one of downtown Petaluma’s historic brick buildings. But this pizza spot doesn’t just rely on delicious, cheesy deep dish pies in their quest to keep customers satisfied, they take things up a notch with nice decor, romantic lighting and a cozy atmosphere. Candles and chandeliers illuminate the dining area, old black-and-white photos adorn the brick walls and the pizza ovens keep the restaurant pleasantly warm.
The industrial look of this coffee and tea house adds to its simple, rustic charm. A large, red coffee grinding machine takes center stage and consistently churns fresh beans, filling the room with an invigorating coffee aroma. The walls are lined with shelves stacked with loose leaf tea packages and burlap sacks with coffee beans; one wall is designated for comfy couches where you can sit down, sip and relax, read a good book, or listen to the resident piano man playing jaunty tunes. Whether you need a Macchiato pick-me-up, a well-spiced Chai Latte or beans and leaves by the pound, Petaluma Coffee & Tea has you covered with a cozy experience.
Refined yet casual, spacious but also intimate, lively while comfortable — famed restaurateur Jan Rosen’s 256 North does cozy dining in style. There’s a grand piano by the entrance and modern lights illuminate the space. The lounge area couch, bar stools and dining chairs are upholstered in cushiony leather, and brick alcoves offer tucked away spaces for groups or couples. Up to coziness factor by ordering a slice of Rosen’s famous cheesecake, like Frank Sinatra liked to do.
The 256 North burger, Wagyu beef from Snake River Farms, Sierra Nevada white cheddar, grilled Vidalia onions, lettuce, tomatoes on a brioche bun at 256 North in Petaluma. (Alvin Jornada/The Press Democrat)A slice of Jan Rosen’s famous cheesecake which is served at her downtown Petaluma restaurant, 256 North and also exported to 12 US states. (Crissy Pascual/Argus-Courier)
Retrograde Coffee Roasters
Serving breakfast and lunch all day, with all the coffee you can consume, of course, this community-minded cafe is equal parts fun and relaxed. From its small batch coffee roasting and locally sourced ingredients to the abstract artwork on the walls and numerous plants dotted around the sunlit cafe, Retrograde provides a friendly, calm environment to lounge or work in (hint: free Wi-Fi). Sip on a house-made Turmeric Latte and nosh on a flavorful breakfast sandwich made to your liking at this wholesome shop in downtown Sebastopol.
At the Farmhouse Inn in Forestville, guests can stay in cottage rooms equipped with all the Wine Country charm you could fit into a weekend. The inn’s Michelin-starred, white-tablecloth restaurant is housed in a restored farmhouse. It is upscale but cozy and serves Cal-French cuisine in a sophisticated dining room that also manages to feel unpretentious. A marble-ensconced fireplace and an extensive wine list will make you feel warm both on the outside and inside. Order the decadent chocolate soufflé for dessert and you’ll be set for the night.
The restaurant at the Farmhouse Inn. (Charlie Gesell/Sonoma Magazine)
The Farmhand
The Farmhand’s deli and market is a great place for picking up provisions for a hike or a cabin retreat in the woods. It is stocked with locally sourced goods and has a welcoming, laidback atmosphere. Stay for a while, relax and enjoy a piping hot latte, buttermilk waffles or a gourmet panini; there are seats on a cushioned couch by the modern fireplace, at wooden tables in the enclosed rustic veranda or outside on the deck overlooking the Russian River.
15025 River Road, Guerneville, 707-604-7795, thefarmhand.net
Northwood Restaurant
Another cozy spot by the Russian River, Northwood Restaurant serves comfort food in an unpretentious, rustic environment with views of the surrounding golf course dotted with redwood trees. A round, brick fireplace sits in the center of the sizable dining room, keeping patrons warm and snug, and the skylights in the tall, vaulted ceiling provide plenty of natural light. This is a locals’ favorite for hearty American home-cooked meals and drinks around the fire.
Order a clam chowder and snuggle up by the large stone fireplace or belly up to the 300-year-old elm tree wooden bar at this coastal gem at the Bodega Bay Lodge. Or dine outside and take in bay views by the fire pits at Drakes Fireside Lounge. For the ultimate cozy coastal getaway, check in at the lodge and order a Dungeness Crab Benedict (when available) for breakfast and enjoy it on your balcony or patio and then soak in the hot tub, also with bay views.
Pumpkin Spice latte from Plank Coffee in Healdsburg. The latte includes their roasted Pine Mountain espresso, organic pumpkin, cinnamon, ginger, cloves and nutmeg. Served here with whipped cream. (Plank Coffee)
Are you someone who eagerly awaits fall and winter for the spicy, sweet, fragrant, warm holiday drinks that arrive on menus at local restaurants and coffee shops?
To answer your craving for a delicious pumpkin spice latte or other warm and sweet holiday drinks, I set out to find the best sippers in Sonoma County.
I visited eight coffee shops across the county to sample each shop’s most popular or beloved holiday drink and bring you my findings. To be sure, it’s no scientific survey, but a good holiday drink is about more than the ingredients — ambiance and latte art get points, too.
Now for the holiday drink smackdown results:
Plank Coffee, Pumpkin Spice latte, rating: 10/10
Imagine all the best fall flavors in one cup. This latte is lightly sweet with a dash of invigorating spice. It includes organic pumpkin, cinnamon, ginger, cloves, nutmeg, espresso and milk. 175 Dry Creek Road, Healdsburg. $5-$8. For more information: bit.ly/2ZjT3CC
Pumpkin Spice latte from Plank Coffee in Healdsburg. The latte includes their roasted Pine Mountain espresso, organic pumpkin, cinnamon, ginger, cloves and nutmeg. (Plank Coffee)
Cotati Coffee Company, Brown Butter Bourbon Caramel latte, rating: 9/10
Take a sip of this buttery caramel goodness. It includes brown butter and bourbon caramel syrup, espresso and milk. Get it served in a unicorn cup! 8225 Old Redwood Highway, Cotati. $4.75-$5.75. For more information: bit.ly/3oV12yR
Brew Coffee and Beer House, Pumpkin Spice latte, rating: 8/10
This fall classic has actual pumpkin in it. Yes, you read that right. It includes real pumpkin puree, espresso, milk and nutmeg on top. The spacious tented patio is a pleasant place to sip on sunny, or even cloudy, days. 555 Healdsburg Ave., Santa Rosa. $4.25-$6.25. For more information: bit.ly/32vVqUe
Pumpkin pie chai latte with spicy chai, pumpkin pie syrup, espresso, milk and is topped with cinnamon at Crooks Coffee, Santa Rosa. (Mya Constantino)
Crooks Coffee, Pumpkin Pie Chai latte, rating: 8/10
Spicy chai and pumpkin pie? Talk about heaven. The drink includes spicy chai, pumpkin pie syrup, espresso, milk and a sprinkling of cinnamon on top. Check out their take-a-book-leave-a-book library, shelves full of games and local art on the walls. 404c Mendocino Ave., Santa Rosa. $4.50-$5.25. For more information: bit.ly/3r5Uy2M
Taylor Lane, Peppermint Mocha latte, rating: 7.5/10
This latte is the sweetest of the bunch. This holiday classic includes in-house organic peppermint syrup, Tcho dark chocolate, espresso and milk. Enjoy your warm cup on the second floor or outside the shop. 6790 McKinley St., Sebastopol. $5.50-$6.50. For more information: bit.ly/2ZqbAgM
Taylor Lane’s peppermint mocha latte with in-house organic peppermint syrup, Tcho dark chocolate, espresso and milk. (Mya Constantino)
Take a bite into peppermint bark as you sip on this tuxedo latte. It includes dark and white chocolate, vanilla and peppermint and is garnished with whipped cream and homemade peppermint bark. Say hello to the owner’s dogs, Chaz and Lady, when you visit. 101 Golf Course Drive A-3, Rohnert Park. $4.25-$5.10. For more information: bit.ly/3FNU05Y
Tuxedo peppermint latte with dark and white chocolate, vanilla, peppermint and is garnished with whipped cream and homemade peppermint bark at Honey Badger Coffee House, Rohnert Park. (Mya Constantino)
If you’re a mint lover, this one is for you. Lightly sweet, but heavy on the mint. It includes organic cane sugar, mint extract, Tcho dark chocolate, espresso and milk. Explore the vibrant local art inside this quaint shop, too. 130 S. Main St., No. 103, Sebastopol. $5.50-$8. For more information visit: bit.ly/3r36LFv
Avid Coffee, Peppermint Mocha latte, rating: 6/10
Avid’s peppermint mocha includes peppermint syrup, homemade dark chocolate, espresso and milk and is topped with something you’ll only see at the holidays — candy-cane sprinkles. 21 Fourth St., Petaluma. $5-$6. For more information: bit.ly/3p0wNXc
Clockwise from top left, Whole Deep Fried Tilapia, Torre de Mariscos,Pina Rellena, Camarones a la Momia, Molecajete Mar y Tierra and Tacos Dorados de Picadillo from Pezcow in Windsor on Friday, April 1, 2022. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
Damian Zuniga has worked in restaurants since he was 15 — many of them owned by the Diaz family, successful Sonoma County restaurateurs who own Agave, El Gallo Negro, El Faralito and a bottled mole company, among their many entrepreneurial ventures.
Now 32, with three food businesses to his name, Zuniga is hoping to replicate the success of the Diazes with a food empire of his own. He’s part of a new generation of local immigrants who are launching off the shoulders of those who came before them, the immigrant business owners who gave them a start.
“I want to be like them,” said Zuniga, who hails from Guanajuato, Mexico.
Part of that dream of success includes the serious efforts of his extended family, who work in his two Lucha Sabina food trucks and a new restaurant, Pezcow in Windsor.
Camarones a la Momia are shrimp wrapped like a mummy in bacon from Pezcow in Windsor. (John Burgess/The Press Democrat)
With Pezcow, the former location of Tu Mole Madre (owned by brothers Octavio and Pedro Diaz) has been transformed into a bustling commissary kitchen for Zuniga’s mobile kitchens and an impressive restaurant featuring brilliantly executed dishes that make use of the wood-fired oven and the culinary skills of Zuniga’s brother, Luis Zuniga.
The name, Pezcow, Luis explained through a translator, means hillside and sea. It plays off the flavors of local seafood and from local ranches, but with a Latin bent. The whimsical logo — a mermaid-cow blowing a conch — is a visual cue to what Zuniga calls surf-and-turf, or “fresh catch.”
Whatever the exact meaning, there is plenty to explore on the menu, from a ruby-red glass of Campechana ($18) filled with octopus and shrimp ceviche in a quaffable lime-orange tomato juice to Pollo al Horno Con Mole ($22) with a homemade mole negro I’d put up against any other (including the Diaz brothers’ — sorry, not sorry).
The well-appointed dining room, mostly left from Tu Mole Madre, is comfortable with long wooden tables, large hammered-bronze light fixtures that cast a warm yellow glow and an open kitchen with handmade tiles from Oaxaca. (Tu Mole Madre had been sporadically open and closed before the pandemic, but closed in 2020.) Don’t be put off by the strip-mall location. Nearby are Castaneda’s (a Latin grocer with many tasty imported products) and, across the parking lot, El Gallo Negro (for great margaritas).
Prices for entrees at Pezcow range from $20 to $45 for a whole fried fish and other seafood (enough for at least four people). Pizzas and appetizers are $8 to $19.
Overall: These are well-crafted dishes that elevate the flavors of Mexico well beyond simple taqueria fare. The seafood is outstanding, but don’t ignore the chicken mole and other land-based entrees.
Best Bets
Queso Fundido, $12: This dish is best right out of the wood-fired oven, with bubbling melted quesillo cheese and homemade chorizo. It’s truly the chorizo you’ll die for, made with freshly ground pork and a mix of warm adobo spices known only to Chef Luis. It will make a chorizo-lover out of you, because you’ll be hard-pressed to find any better.
Pollo Al Horno Con Mole, $22: A large half-chicken cooked in the wood-fired oven, then slathered with mole negro. It’s hard to capture the magic of mole, but this version has a gentle sweetness, warm baking spices and smoky chiles that meld so harmoniously you’ll be humming a happy tune while you lick the plate.
Molcajete Mariscos, $25: First things first — A molcajete (the volcanic stone bowl and the name of the dish inside it) should never, and I mean never, be anything less than sizzling hot. That’s part of the magic of this stew of shrimp, clams, scallops, octopus and crab legs (with nopales and fried cheese). I look at it as a distant cousin of fondue, mostly because it’s best shared with friends as they dip forks and spoons into the deep bowl and don’t get too worked up if someone sticks their fingers in to fish out a rogue scallop or two.
Campechana, $18: A glass chalice fit for royalty holds piles of octopus and shrimp ceviche swimming in citrus and tomato juices. Chiles add a savory, earthy quality, but little heat. Required.
Pizza Al Pastor, $18: Spit-grilled al pastor is legit (and frankly I’d be glad to eat it plain), tossed over a wood-fired pizza crust and laden with cheese, pineapple, onion and salsa de aguacate. It’s kind of like a Hawaiian pizza, but so darn much better.
Beer and wine are available, along with agua fresca.
8465 Old Redwood Highway, Windsor, open 9 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily. 707-393, 8370. bit.ly/31k9I9X.
Nine years is a pretty long time to wait for your first harvest, but not if you’re a truffle grower in Sonoma County.
Last Wednesday, after pacing through his family’s Geyserville hazelnut orchards with Leo the truffle dog, Seth Angerer finally found a truffle — specifically, a 5.03-ounce Sonoma County black melanosporum.
It’s the first cultivated truffle found in Alexander Valley, according to Angerer’s father and collaborator, Fran Angerer. The family seek out the rare and valuable culinary fungus with their truffle-hunting Lagotto Romagnolo dogs, a specialized breed with a keen sense of smell and a curly-haired face so cute it’s painful.
“We’ve been waiting nine years and eight months, and we haven’t found anything. Every year we get more and more discouraged,” said Fran Angerer, who previously worked with Jackson Family Wines on their truffle properties in Sonoma County.
Sonoma County’s first cultivated black truffles (a species called Périgord truffles) were harvested in 2017 by the Jackson Family Wines team after inoculating hazelnut and oak trees in 2011. (Farmers grow truffles by inoculating the roots of saplings with truffle spores. Years later, they harvest the truffles, hopefully.)
The truffle hunting season typically runs from January to March, so an early truffle in November was a particularly exciting find for the Angerers. The fact that black truffles can command up to $95 per ounce is just as exciting.
Seth Angerer and his dog, Leo. And the black truffle. (Photo: Fran Angerer)The black truffle found by Seth Angerer. (Photo: Fran Angerer)
Upon finding the esteemed fungi, Seth Angerer posted a Facebook video in which he pointed at the still-earthbound truffle with a spade. “It’s a big deal for us,” he said in the video. “We’re waiting for the whole family to show up so we can all (dig it up) together and take it in.”
“You just don’t dig it up,” Fran said by phone. “Seth called me and was shaking. I called my wife and we all hopped in the car.”
Fran’s other son, Nathan, also chimed in. “The feeling is just unbelievable after all this time. We were all crying and laughing and the dogs were going crazy,” he said.
To mark the occasion, the family took the prized truffle to Valette restaurant in Healdsburg, where Chef Dustin Valette prepared a seven-course meal with their truffle as the star of the show.
“It was awesome. We had quite a celebration,” Fran said.
Truffle growing is a long game, typically marked by frustration and disappointment. In the 1970s Henry Trione sparked truffle fever in Sonoma County when he staged the first California Truffle Congress in Santa Rosa with hopes that the oaks in Northern California could be hiding the same delicious fungi as their cousins in France and Italy. And while truffles were found, they weren’t high-quality, or even edible, quashing early enthusiasm. Trione’s passion did, however, spark an ongoing interest in truffle growing here.
That enthusiasm spawned the decade-long dream of growing truffles for the Angerers, who own Angerer Family Farm and Alexander Valley Truffle Co. They’ve have gone at it alone, investing in several hazelnut orchards that are inoculated with the Tuber melanosporum, a prized strain of truffles from Burgundy. They’re also experimenting with white Italian truffles that Fran hopes will come to fruition soon.
“It’s a huge investment to maintain with no product for nine or 10 years,” Fran said. “Every truffle grower goes through a time when you start asking yourself if you’re crazy. You start having a bad attitude going into the hunt, but then all of the sudden, there it is. That’s the truffle experience.”
Sonoma County hotels are helping guests and visitors get into the festive spirit with special events, treats and holiday decor. Click through the above gallery for details.
