Stéphane Saint Louis has already made his mark on the Sonoma County dining scene, from cheffing at Petaluma favorite Della Fattoria and The Shuckery to launching his first restaurant, the recently Michelin-recommended Table Culture Provisions.
But with two young boys in tow, Saint Louis and his wife and business partner Marta Saint Louis are just getting started. Together with co-owner Steven Vargas, who also worked at Della, they open their second Petaluma eatery, Bijou, this month.
Saint Louis promises “bistronomy,” a blend of French cooking technique and Sonoma County seasonal farm-to-table. Bijou’s opening will draw attention for more than just its menu or its pedigree. The restaurant occupies a prime downtown location previously housing Whisper Sisters and then Easy Rider. With Saint Louis moving in, the corner — and Petaluma’s culinary reputation — appear to be in good hands.
Petaluma Roots
I’ve always felt welcome here. When I worked for Kathleen [Weber] at Della, she would introduce me to all of these local purveyors, whether it was the owners of Cowgirl Creamery, or Straus, or Liberty Duck. Even as a sous chef, I had already developed these farmer-to-chef relationships. I continued on, and built a name for myself, a reputation in the community. And Petaluma always felt like home to me.
Full-Circle Moment
I used to come here all the time. I used to hold my kitchen team meetings in this space. During Covid, I would leave The Shuckery, and I would look at this building right across the street, and I’d think, “Man, one day, I think I’m going to get this place.” Six months ago, when I saw the ad come up [for Easy Rider], I didn’t even think twice. I called the broker and I said, “I want it. Take the ad down.”
A Family Affair
We live next to TCP, so my oldest will jump the fence and come to the restaurant and say, “Daddy, can I get some fries,” or “Can I get some steak,” “Can I get some scallops?” My youngest, every time he comes in, he tastes every single sauce I have going, and he gets so excited about it. Marta is taking care of the kids and running the business. And then we can go to the farm, and the boys can play outside and harvest strawberries, or whatever it is. It’s a lifestyle.
Facing the Unknown
Bijou is much more casual, faster-paced, higher-volume. It’s going to be a whole different ballgame. We’re going to have a lot more staff, more variety of guests coming in, a more affordable price point. I am just looking forward to the challenge, and I’m not afraid of it. Whatever challenges that are going to come with this, I’m ready to face them. I live for this.