Light-bodied, chillable red wines have become ubiquitous in Sonoma County, especially during the steamy summer months. Yet despite their sunny reputation, these fresh and friendly wines are also ideal for the Thanksgiving table.
To achieve that oh-so-drinkable style, many winemakers use a fermentation method called carbonic maceration. The technique was popularized by wineries in the Beaujolais region of France, most famously in the form of Beaujolais Nouveau.
Red wines are typically made by crushing grapes in a vat, where yeast co-mingles with juice to kick off fermentation. In contrast, with carbonic maceration, fermentation happens within individual, whole grapes in an oxygen-free environment. This gives the resulting wine a distinctive, playful character.
“It adds a sense of fun — some pop — with candied and ever-present fruit notes,” says Jaam Moynihan, co-founder of Joseph-Jibril winery in Healdsburg. “The technique works excellently with Pinot Noir, Valdiguié, Cabernet Franc, and really, any varietal where you want to emphasize those characteristics.”
That light and fruity profile makes carbonic reds a great match for holiday dishes.
“I love a classic Thanksgiving turkey dinner with all the fixings, but often it can be on the richer side,” says Joseph-Jibril co-founder Bobby Huff. Because carbonic red wine is light on its feet, he adds, “It can act as a nice palate cleanser.”
Erik Miller, the founder of Breaking Bread and Kokomo wineries in Healdsburg, points out that carbonic reds are often lower in alcohol than non-carbonic wines, so they won’t weigh you down during a long afternoon meal.
“Thanksgiving is a day that you’re starting early, and you don’t want anything that’s too big or too heavy,” he says. And thanks to the high acidity and low tannins in carbonic wines, he notes, they’re versatile with a variety of Thanksgiving dishes — from gravy-drizzled turkey to bright cranberry sauce.
Three Carbonic Reds to Try
Breaking Bread – 2023 Cabernet Franc
Mizany Vineyard, Dry Creek Valley $28
This is one of four carbonic red offerings from the Kokomo offshoot, Breaking Bread. Lovely and fruity, with soft tannins, the wine has notes of strawberries and spice. It can easily stand up to heartier dishes, like stuffing and turkey with gravy, yet it won’t steal the show from lighter sides. breakingbreadwines.com
Joseph-Jibril – 2024 carbonic. (red wine)
California $29
A blend of 80% Pinot Noir and 20% Valdiguié, this juicy number charms with elements of bright raspberries, cranberries, and cinnamon spice. Elegant, with subtle tannins on the finish. Winemaker Jaam Moynihan likes to pair this with his mom’s signature zuppa di castagne — a rich chestnut soup. josephjibrilwines.com
Pellegrini-Olivet Lane – 2023 Carbonic Pinot Noir
Russian River Valley $40
This ultra-fruity Pinot Noir is bursting with candied red fruits and flavors of strawberries, raspberries, and cranberries playing on the palate. Tannins are gentle, making the wine a tasty match for the holiday bird. For fans of fizz, Pellegrini also makes a sparkling, carbonic Pinot Noir in a lively Lambrusco style. pellegrinisonoma.com