Chef Reed Palmer can’t escape the obvious question about his new high-profile position as chef de cuisine of the new Folia Bar & Kitchen at Appellation Healdsburg.
Yes, he is the son of celebrity chef Charlie Palmer, and the luxury resort is the second of six culinary-focused properties co-founded by his father and industry veteran Christopher Hunsberger.
At just 27, the younger Palmer manages the daily operations of the 200-plus-seat restaurant, which features a sweeping open kitchen with a live-fire grill at its center. It’s a big job with big responsibilities, and Palmer isn’t short on guidance. His father, along with culinary director Thomas Bellec and executive chef David Intonato, is frequently on-site as the newly opened resort slides into its first month of operation.
But Palmer isn’t here to rest on his father’s reputation. “If anything, I have to prove myself more,” he said as his team prepared for dinner service on a recent Thursday afternoon.
A graduate of the Culinary Institute of America at Hyde Park, Palmer also holds a degree in hospitality management from Cornell University. His culinary journey includes stints in the kitchens of Blue Hill at Stone Barns in New York, Amass in Copenhagen and Ilis in Brooklyn.
Raised in Healdsburg, Palmer chose to learn the ropes elsewhere before returning to the family business. He counts both his father and Matt Orlando, founder of Amass and a former chef de cuisine at Noma, considered one of the world’s best restaurants, as mentors.
Now back in his hometown, wandering through the raised garden beds outside Folia, Palmer maintains he’s still the same Healdsburg High School grad who once bussed tables at his dad’s restaurant.
The place
Appellation Healdsburg is a striking example of country luxury on a grand scale. The resort features 108 guest rooms, two pools, a spa, an event center, classrooms, two bars, Folia restaurant and more than eight acres of landscaped grounds. These include ancient olive trees transplanted from Southern California, fruit trees, culinary gardens and even a small vineyard. Designed by Novato-based EDG Design, the enclosed property is in a class of its own with floor-to-ceiling windows, bespoke furniture and breathtaking views at every turn. The million-dollar sunset view from Andy’s Beeline Rooftop bar is worth experiencing.
The hotel’s layout underscores its culinary focus. Guests walk directly into the restaurant upon arrival, a deliberate gesture that sets the tone for the Appellation experience. From welcome canapés to edible spa botanicals (Meyer lemon, lavender, honey) to hands-on culinary classes, Charlie Palmer has curated an immersive food experience that celebrates Northern California’s agricultural bounty, past and present.
On a private tour, he highlights the specifics of his vision: the citrus trees he has selected for the property, the 150-year-old olive trees, and the baby Sauvignon Blanc vines that are yet to be trellised. Palmer also takes the time to highlight Folia’s open-hearth grill, along with a demonstration kitchen equipped with state-of-the-art audio and video technology. When it comes to the kitchen, however, he’s mostly hands off. Except for the waffle fries, those are all his.
The food
I expected the usual fine dining fare — aged duck, pâté and giant cuts of beef — at Folia. What I didn’t anticipate were the elementary school-style waffle fries. Never one to pass up a good fry, I ordered the fries and aioli with fennel pollen and garlic ($8) as a side dish. I was prepared for hoity-toity thin-cut Bouchon fries. I got Chick-fil-A.
“I like as much caramelization as possible,” said Charlie Palmer, explaining the appeal of waffle fires, which offer extra surface area. Double-fried, they’re pretty extraordinary. They also make an appearance on the lunch menu alongside Reed Palmer’s cheeseburger — a truly memorable burger worth a return visit.
Though the restaurant serves three meals a day, dinner is really what you’re here for. The menu is a three-course prix fixe for $85, so that’s something to keep in mind. There are à la carte sides and snacks available, and a pared-down dinner menu in the bar and lounge.
The seasonal menu feels like a reasonable deal for $85. Like most Charlie Palmer restaurants, the focus is on New American cuisine, highlighting seasonal, locally sourced ingredients. More than lip service, the chefs are truly passionate about using whatever’s fresh from the garden that day.
Start with complimentary housemade bread and a scoop of butter from the basketball-sized mound at the serving station. The brioche is outstanding. If you’re particularly snacky, the ‘Nduja Croquettes are light, crispy bites with a peppercorn kick.
Chef Shane McAnelly’s pasta tasting menu at Palmer’s Dry Creek Kitchen inspired several excellent dishes, with the best being the Creste di gallo Pomodoro, cock’s comb-shaped pasta with crisp guanciale, orange tomato and sweet corn.
The black cod cioppino, with Manila clams, Bay squid, fennel and cranberry beans, has a hint of Sonoma County’s impending fall weather. Warm, rich and satisfying, it uses sustainable black cod from local waters. The olive oil-poached halibut is perfectly tender, served with tiny Japanese turnips, garlic and olives. The roasted duck breast was fine, though not a favorite — I prefer my duck rare with crackling skin. If you’re dining with a friend, there are several entrées for two, including a New York Strip ($35 supplement), whole fish or whole roasted chicken.
Desserts rotate regularly, but a slice of lemon tart with mile-high meringue is a fun way to finish the meal. An extensive wine list will satisfy connoisseurs, complemented by signature cocktails. The Sweet Cerise ($20), with whiskey, pomegranate, ginger and lemon, was particularly impressive.
Overall
As Charlie Palmer’s son, chef Reed Palmer has a lot to live up to. But he’s certainly putting his own spin on dishes that continue the legacy of bringing New American cuisine to the forefront, with an emphasis on honest ingredients, simple cooking techniques and local flair.
Folia Bar & Kitchen, 101 Dovetail Lane, Healdsburg, 707-723-2130, foliabarandkitchen.com. Dinner served from 5-9 p.m. Wednesday to Sunday. Lounge menu available from 11:30 a.m. to 9 p.m. daily.
Andy’s Beeline Rooftop is open from 4-11 p.m. daily by reservation at beelinerooftop.com.