It took Brian Perloff six months to make a good pizza. It took a year to make it great. Now, just six weeks after opening Wonderland Pizzeria in Monte Rio, it is being compared to some of New York City’s best slices.
Around dinnertime last Tuesday, Perloff received a Yelp review from a native New Yorker who compared his pizza to the once-legendary Ray’s: thin slices, a crisp crust and that elusive quality that has long helped put New York pizza at the top of the heap. Though the original Ray’s is long gone and its name remains tangled in controversy, Perloff considered it a win.
“I’m blown away,” he texted.
When the serial entrepreneur began making pizzas a year ago, they were, by his own admission, terrible. Today, he can barely keep up with orders at the fledgling restaurant he runs with partner Kellee Kessler in a quiet west county town known for its beaches, redwood groves and the secretive annual gathering at Bohemian Grove.
The road to Monte Rio
Perloff discovered a passion for pizza a year ago after taking over a tough-and-tumble roadhouse at the Monte Rio crossroads. The space had cycled through a series of short-lived restaurant concepts.
A family-friendly pizzeria, however, seemed to fill a need. Summer visitors and year-round residents alike were looking for something casual and affordable, with a large patio and plenty of beer on tap. After a year of construction, Perloff delivered.
A Southern California native who has lived in Sonoma County for more than two decades, Perloff has worn many hats: Olympic cycling hopeful, coffeehouse owner, snack-food entrepreneur and contractor. He put those building skills to work transforming the former cafe from an eyesore into an 8,000-square-foot gathering place with two dining rooms, two bars and an outdoor deck lined with picnic tables, umbrellas and a bandstand that may soon host larger acts.
Wonderland serves beer, wine and soft drinks only.
“It’s already going beyond what I ever imagined,” said Perloff, who looks far younger than his 60 years and spends much of his time roaming the dining room, greeting friends and neighbors and thanking them for stopping by. “I created this community vibe that I wanted, and it’s taken a life of its own.”
The pizza
Wonderland’s pizza stands out even in a county with no shortage of strong pizzerias. Perloff had help developing the proprietary fermented dough that forms the foundation of every pie. All he will say is that it uses three types of flour and takes four days to make.
“It’s extremely complicated,” he said.
The dough was developed with pizzaiolo and consultant Alastair Hannmann of Pizza Buddha, who also helped Acre Pizza create its recipes. After years studying the interplay of yeast, water and flour, Hannmann, who lives in Hawaii, has become a sought-after consultant for his expertise in dough fermentation.
The pizzas land somewhere between New York and California styles, with a thin, blistered crust and a chewy texture from the fermentation process. Toppings range from the straightforward Championship Cheese, topped with mozzarella and ricotta piped in florets, to the meat-heavy Torr-Carnivore and the vegan Farmer’s Pie.
Before opening May 22, Perloff hosted pizza parties for neighbors to gather feedback. He also stood outside the restaurant handing fresh pizzas to passing motorists.
“I would sit there and give it away, but I told people they had to come back and tell us how they liked it,” he said.
As summer unfolds, he plans to add more pizzas to the menu and host live music on the patio. A line of guitars hangs on the walls, available for anyone who wants to play.
Wonderland is Monte Rio’s version of “Cheers,” where neighbors stop in for a cold beer and everybody knows your name, or at least your favorite topping.
“It’s about community and passion, and you just feel like you’re a part of something,” Perloff said. “And our pizzas are just f-ing good.”
Best bets
The Baxman ($24): Sausage, roasted pineapple, shallots and hot honey make this a standout for fans of Hawaiian-style pizza. Even pineapple skeptics may be won over by the caramelized fruit. The pie is named for longtime Monte Rio fire chief Steve Baxman.
Championship Cheese ($18): Tomato sauce, mozzarella and Pecorino Romano are joined by ricotta, garlic confit and oregano in a pie that balances richness with restraint.
The Torr-Carnivore ($24): Named for Michele Torr, whose family has lived in Monte Rio for more than a century. Pepperoni, sausage, bacon, roasted red peppers and green onions make this one for the meat lovers.
Wings ($13 small, $23 large): Crispy, meaty wings served with Buffalo, barbecue honey or habanero-mango sauce.
Wonderland Fries ($11): Tossed in garlic oil and Parmesan, these fries avoid the harsh bite of raw garlic. They’ll keep the vampires, and maybe any rogue kisses, away.
Ranch: Of course there is housemade ranch, and of course you need it for the pizza “bones,” also known as crusts. The sour cream-forward dip is full of herby goodness.
Kellee’s Choco Chip Cookie ($4): Based on a family recipe passed from Perloff’s sister to Kessler, the cookies combine dark chocolate chunks and sea salt. Ask for one warmed, and probably get a couple, because they’re that good.
The other stuff: There is currently no gluten-free crust. The vegan Farmer’s Pie ($25) comes topped with white sauce, zucchini, cherry tomatoes and vegan cheese. Half-and-half pizzas are available.
Open 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. Tuesday through Sunday and 5-8 p.m. Monday. 20391 Highway 116, Monte Rio. 707-865-5133, instagram.com/wonderland_pizzeria