Food + Drink, Sonoma Restaurants, What's New in Wine Country

Revamped Agriculture Public House Serves up Simple Dishes With Flair

The 1905 landmark property has been reborn as an upscale, gorgeous cabin retreat with a casual but expertly executed restaurant.

After a three-year hiatus, Guerneville’s historic Dawn Ranch resort has reopened, making a flashy entrance with a dramatic, property-wide renovation and a revamped restaurant, Agriculture Public House.

The restaurant has been in operation for more than a decade, and frankly, in its earlier days, it wasn’t very interesting. Dishes spanned staples like ho-hum fish and chips, a skirt steak sandwich, pulled pork ravioli and shrimp flatbread. It was just what you’d expect at a sleepy stopover in a quirky river town populated by bohemian adventurers.

The refreshed Public House menu still reads simply but has more flair, and now, I must say, I’m smitten.

Grilled Mary’s organic chicken breast, for example, gets a boost from yam medallions and cider-roasted Brussels sprouts sprinkled with pepita seeds ($32), while braised pork shoulder comes from the family-owned, heritage pig-focused Mountain View Pork of Turlock and is served with creamy polenta, arugula and the crunchy delight of watermelon radish ($30).

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