Sushi Smackdown

Fighting a serious case of sushi belly* BiteClub lays down the chopsticks and names the winners of 2006 Sumos of Sonoma County Sushi

But before the drumroll, a quick shout out to all of you who weighed in with your picks. I’ll be adding some of your comments into this story soon (a girl can only type so fast). Click here to see the comments from yesterday.

And now, the winners…

Yokozuna (Grand Champion)
Ume Japanese Bistro: The Master
Tucked away in Windsor, Ume is the place that sushi connoisseurs talk about between themselves. The sushi is simple, minimal (not blobbed with wasabi or overly seasoned rice) letting the flavor of the fish express itself and sliced generously without being overdone. Plus-
– Perfectly brewed tea poured as soon as you sit down 
– Hands down, the best Monkfish pate
– Fresh, fresh, fresh-and did I mention fresh (**caveat below)
– Artistic presentation
– Great sake list
– Lots of specials and off-menu delicacies that satisfy a serious sushi-lover
– A careful balance between serious Nigiri/sashimi and wacky everything-but-the-kitchen-sink rolls. (Which can be fun in certain situations, but in no way considered true sushi). 8710 Old Redwood Highway, Windsor, 838.6700

+++++
Ozeki (Serious Sushi)

Yao Kiku: Insiders Choice
The key to Yao Kiku is getting in with the sushi chef. Frankly, I’ve yet to ingratiate myself properly (I think I ordered a California roll, and blew my chances), but regardless, I’ve never had a misstep at this Bennett Valley jewel. 2700 Yulupa Ave, Santa Rosa, 707.578.8180

Hana: Authentic
This one, I’m nominating primarily as a crowd favorite. My two experiences at Hana were less than illuminating (though the foie gras ‘sushi’ was delightful), but too many people I trust have told me that the chef is nothing short of brilliant. So okay, there you go. 101 Golf Course Drive, Rohnert Park, 707.586.0270

Sake’ O: Triple Threat
The Healdsburg outpost of Gary Chu’s empire has incredible sushi, monkfish pate and the Martini prawns that have made Chu a legend in SoCo. I’ll mention O’Sake (2446 Patio Court, Santa Rosa, 707.542.8282 ) here as well, but frankly, the sushi doesn’t even compare. 505 Healdsburg Ave, Healdsburg, 707.433/2669

Sushi Tozai: The Sebastopol Sleeper 
An insider spot that consistently turns out solid sushi. 7531 Healdsburg Ave, Sebastopol, 707.824.9886

+++++
Seki wake (Pretty darned good)

Hiro: Petaluma power sushi
Watching the sushi chefs breakdown fake crab (the little pressed sticks which should never enter any real sushi restaurant) for 10 minutes while they pretty much ignored me didn’t bode well. Which is why Hiro falls short in my list, despite some otherwise good sushi. 107 Petaluma Blvd. North, Petaluma, 707.763.2300

Senju: Wow in Windsor
What makes Senju one of my perennial faves is the incredibly nice staff and, like Ume, the specials off-menu cuts that inspire and intrigue. 8960 Brooks Road South, Windsor, 707.836.1699

+++++
Komu Subi (Just plain fun)

Sakura: Anime explosion
It is quite possible that every inch of this restaurant is covering with something cute, pink, fuzzy or adorable. Or blinking. Which makes it one of my favorite spots on a rainy, crummy day. The sushi is good (though not mind-blowing), reasonably priced, and service is fast enough to get you in and out before your visual cortex, uh, explodes. 300 Coddingtown Center, Santa Rosa; 707.523.1916

Sushi to Dia For: Sauce with that?
A newcomer to SoCo, Sushi to Dia For–isn’t. But props for their creative rolls and sense of fun. Frankly, there’s a little too much creative saucing and showboating for my taste. But, it’s a bustling hot spot that fills the urgent bar crawling sush-cravings in a pinch. 119 4th St, Santa Rosa, 707.576.9309

Boathouse: Sushi Go Round
The main thing I like about Boathouse is the boats, which float to the bar seats with your dinner bobbing along happily. The sushi is pretty average, but hey, having your dinner dock in front of you is sometimes worth the money. 6278 Redwood Dr. Rohnert Park, Rohnert Park, 707.588. 9440

Sushi Hana: Cheap(ish) eatsNo frills sushi. A crowd favorite, yes. Great sushi? Well, it depends how hungry you are. Best bet for gorging yourself senseless on a budget, especially on the ‘cheap’ days. 6930 Burnett, Sebastopol, 707.823.3778

+++++
And the rest

Jo Jo & Café Japan: DowntownersYou said it. I said it. Too much variance in consistency for these to get our votes. While I’ve had good experiences at both, I’ve also had some pretty mediocre ones as well. 645 Fourth St., Santa Rosa, 707.569.8588

Sapporo: The Fix
I’m a little embarrassed to admit that I actually go here pretty often. There’s not much to commend on the sushi. It’s fine, but never exceptional. It’s simply the closest fix near my work. And sometimes you just need a fix. 518 7th St, Santa Rosa, 707.575/0631

+++++
Take Your Chances

Here are several that are yet untried…
Kabuki: Another crowd faveLots of you love this place. Worth a try? Let me know. 17 Petaluma Blvd. North, Petaluma, 707.773.3232

Shiso: Sonoma star?
Newest entry in the town of Sonoma. 522 Broadway, Sonoma, 707.933.9331

U&I: Cheap eats
Frankly, I’ve been a little scared of this place, located in a strip mall in the Sonoma State area, but again, it gets several nods from those of you who love sushi on the cheap. 99 Southwest Blvd., Rohnert Park, 707.794.0410

Shogun: 2350 Midway Drive, Santa Rosa, 707.575.5557 
Nagomi: 8235 Old Redwood Hwy, Cotati, 707.795.9753
Kyoto: No. 5, Padre Town Center, Rohnert Park, 707.584.4204

+++++
*Sushi Belly (def.): The state of uncomfortable fullness after eating $80 worth of sushi. Brought about by rice expansion. Usually goes away within 2-3 hours, allowing sushi eaters to gorge again.

**Okay, I just got taken to task for my comment about “fresh”. Here’s the deal on that. Almost all sushi in the US (with a few exceptions, tuna being one of them) must be frozen at some point to kill parasites. In reality, a majority of fish served in sushi restaurants, has at some point been frozen for varying lengths of time. It’s a matter of economics and seasonality. I don’t have a huge problem with that, as long as the fish has been properly handled, is of exceptional quality to begin with, and…well duh, actually tastes “fresh”…as in not freezer burned or particularly fishy. So, okay, point taken. It’s not exactly “fresh” . But next time, don’t refer to me as Cox. I’ve never even met the guy.

Sumos of Sushi

After several soy-soaked months, BiteClub is preparing the ultimate sushi guide to SoCo.

But first, I want your opinion. What’s the absolute freshest, best, tastiest, most artistic sushi in the region? Who’s the best chef?

This is your big chance, so let me know.

Stay tuned TODAY for the results.

Drop your comments below, or email me directly at biteclub@pressdemo.com.

Chow!

Where does Keller eat?

Quince is apparently one of Thomas Keller’s (French Laundry, Bouchon, Per Se, Ad Hoc, etc.) favorite haunts. Who knew? The celeb chef, along with a rather impressive list of other local gastronomical luminaries spread the love around in a rather clever American express advertisement called “San Francisco Dish”.

Along with video vignettes, the site also offers some rather nice little discounts and “freebies” for local restaurants including The Girl and the Fig, Celadon, Dry Creek Kitchen, etc. Worth checking out if for nothing else than the coupons.

Or, you know, just nerding out to a bunch of chefs talking about food. Which may or may not have sucked up approximately 3 hours of my weekend.

Here’s the link

Santa Trata

Local restaurant sniffers found the newly-opened Santa Trata in record time. In fact, most of us have been watching the spot next to Pho Vietnam like hawks since the short-lived (but well-liked) Real Gyro/Cafe Cabano mysteriously vanished, much to our dolmas and lamb-eating horror.

As of late November, however, the kitchen is back in business, this time Eritrean-style. (Think Reuben in ‘Along Came Polly’)

Shorthanded (if you’re not up on your romantic comedies), Eritrean is a spicy, earthy, stew-ish African cuisine that’s eaten without utensils. Instead beef, lentils, chicken and veggies are scooped up with giant pieces of injera (a plate-sized, tart crepe/pancake).

Did I mention it was spicy? Soul-weepingly. For you heat hounds, however, Santa Trata stays well over on the reasonable side of the Holy-Crap-That’s-Hot Index.

What to eat: Best bets are the spicy beef (tongue-tingling), lentils and spinach. Don’t look for them on the menu, however, because so far, there isn’t one. Rather, a tasty display plate on the counter with the day’s specials. Point to what looks tasty.

Lunch is $8.99 for two specials, plus injera and salad. Eating with your fingers: priceless.

Santa Trata Eritrean Cafe: 711 Stony Point Road, Santa Rosa, 707.575.8792

Stay tuned: Panettone and more next week.

Got something to say: Email me at biteclub@pressdemo.com

Burger, chips & a chef on the move

Best Burger Redux
So, in the advice of a BiteClubber, I headed north to Windsor last night to check out KC’s Downtown Grill for a burger. Here’s my takeaway:

– Best burger in town? Sorry. Not in my book. A solid burger? Absolutely. I got the Blue Eyes, a burger topped with carmelized onions and blue cheese. The nice, soft bun is a winner. The onions and blue cheese were also tasty. But uh…the patty? By all accounts, it appears pressed. See the perfectly shaped edges? I don’t like pressed patties. They tend to be a little drier, and lack the homemade touch. And the homemade touch is what makes a great burger in my book.

– On the plus side, service is extra speedy, and a large TV, fun retro tables and lots to look at on the walls (who can’t get at least 5 minutes of fun out of the ‘Poop Deck’ sign?). A huge variety of food (salads, burgers, pasta, etc.) make it a solid alternative to chain restaurants.

KC’s Downtown Grill: 9501 DuVander Lane, Windsor, 707.838.7800

Chips, ahoy!Aztec chocolate, curry, Island Jerk, chili lime and Asian five spice are the people’s choice picks for Kettle Chips’ Passport to flavor pack. For $20, you get all six flavors, a CD and lots of other party fun. Then, choose your favorite online. I mean, what else are you gonna do on New Years’? Kettle Foods Passport to Flavor

And in chef news: More trouble at COPIA? |Top chef Victor Scargle has left Julia’s Kitchen in search of greener pastures, after some staff cutbacks. Reports say that as of Dec. 1, you’ll find him (along with just about everyone else, it seems) at Cindy Pawlcyn’s Go Fish in St. Helena.

Dierk’s Parkside Cafe, Santa Rosa breakfast institution

Dierk's Parkside restaurant
Dierk’s Parkside restaurant

Dierk's Parkside restaurant
Dierk’s Parkside in Santa Rosa/ Charlie Gesell

There’s literally no room for pretension at Dierk’s Parkside Cafe, a cozy neighborhood restaurant where regulars sip coffee at the bar and chat up the lone waitress buzzing from table to table.
Located just across Santa Rosa Avenue from Las Palmas, it’s a surprising place to find one of Wine Country’s favorite toques, Mark Dierkhising. But over the years, he’s created a morning institution popular with  bed-headed kids, apres-bike groups and in-the-know Wine Country visitors hunched over Chicken Fried Steak, Huevos Rancheros and quite possibly the world’s best hangover cure —the Country Benedict whose magical powers include a warm baguette, scrambled eggs, bacon, mushrooms, oven-dried tomatoes, spinach, hash browns and Hollandaise sauce.
Dierk's Parkside restaurant
Dierk’s Parkside/Charlie Gesell

“This is just stuff I grew up with,” says the Minnesota native, as he dishes up plates in rapid succession. Don’t miss the homemade pull-apart fried bread from his grandma’s recipe book and come early, because there’s almost always a line weaving out the door and into the parking lot on weekends. 404 Santa Rosa Ave., Santa Rosa, (707) 573-5955.
For lunch, Dierkhising and his crew serve up a mean fried chicken sandwich, burger, fish tacos, tuna burger or hot pastrami with fries. Wonderful fries.
See also: Dierk’s Midtown
Dierk’s Parkside Cafe, 404 Santa Rosa Ave., Santa Rosa, 707.573.5955
 

Foodies gone wild

My obsession was so great, I braved San Francisco’s Westfield mall on Black Friday for a Beard Papa cream puff.

Apparently, 70 bizilllion other people had the same obsession, judging by a line that wrapped for miles. I left puffless. But not disappointed.

Since its opening, food geeks (like me, and maybe you, too) have been dumbstruck over the wonderland that is the Westfield Mall. You’ll know us by the look of incredulousness as we stand, blocking all foot traffic, drooling quietly on our holiday sweaters.

What’s the big deal? First off, the food court, which features waaaay-upscale versions of Thai, Japanese, Mexican and burgers. And the famed Slanted Door is set to open a take-out soon. Obviously, this ain’t your usual mall grease-o-rama.

Add to that a huge indoor farm-market/gourmet food store (Bristol Farms). Gently layer upon that an artisinal chocolate shop that could bring you to tears with its preciousness (Cocoa Bella). Plus, a French style bakery , a gawk-inducing fusion Asian restaurant (Straits), a Lark Creek Kitchen spinoff, a luxe sandwich shop (‘wichcraft) and a gourmet Mexican eatery (ie: no chimchangas).

And of course, there are the cream puffs. A recent import from Japan, Beard Papa is a sort of fast-food style bakery serving up light, airy pate a choux filled with vanilla, green tea or chocolate pastry cream. Suffice to say, I was covered in a blanket of powdered sugar, cream and crumbs by the time I left. They’re that good.

So make the excuse that you’re going into the city for some holiday shopping. Just make sure to wipe off all the crumbs before you get home. I won’t tell your secret.

Westfield Mall, 865 Market St., San Francisco

First look at Fourth

Tuesday is the confirmed date (4pm) for Upper Fourth’s opening and BiteClub got a sneak peak at the swank new digs.
The vibe is less hipster lounge, and more of a sleek, uptown jazz bar with plenty of big leather seats, low tables and a promise that the music will be kept low enough to let folks have a conversation without screaming in each other’s ears.

There are two reserved rooms for guests looking for a more intimate atmosphere, with the main lounge large enough to accomodate a decent-sized crowd without having to get uncomfortably up close and personal with other guests.

A massive onyx bar dominates the room, serving cocktails, wine and beer. Lounge snacks (think heavy hors d’oevres) will also be offered (no menu yet).

Oddly enough, co-owners Molly Gallaher and Ivan Richard (both in their 20s) aren’t even their own demographic. The two hope to attract a more sedate 35-50s crowd looking for a mellow, more upscale vibe.

For now the down-tempo music will mostly come through the club’s speakers, though Gallaher says they hope to have some live acoustic guitar or jazz in the near future. There’s also no dance floor, so you’ll have to get your freak on elsewhere. That, or just sit back, chill out and leave the freaking to someone else for a change.

Upper Fourth, 96 Old Courthouse Square, Second Floor.573.0522

New bar for SR?

It’s so tantilizingly close. A new bar in the SR.

Word on the street is that the bar, located above Flavor Bistro in downtown Santa Rosa, may open this month. There were even rumors of Dec. 1, but I still don’t have a Manhattan in my hand, so I’ll hold my breath for another week or so.

The spot is said to be posh and upscale, possibly another Barcode-esque experience. But with a view.

John Beck wrote a great piece in Santa Rosa magazine about the couple planning the bar and their vision for a swank new nightspot. Read it here

Meet you at happy hour. Soon, I hope.