When a friend recently told me he never eats fast food, I couldn’t help the look of shock and horror that came over my face. I called him a liar.

Because in the year 2007 if you have any sort of normal life, hitting the drive-through at 11pm after everything else closes is pretty much unavoidable. Even the most conscious parents eventually succumb to the pleas of Happy Meal-crazed children. Even BiteClub isn’t above scraping together pennies from under the car seat at the end of the month in search of a dirt-cheap meal. And, there’s always the issue of pleasing out-of-town guests who think Outback is the absolute height of gastronomy (especially when it’s your mother-in-law).

Come on. You do it. We all do it. It’s awful, but let’s just admit it and move on. **

Recently, Zagat’s–the little red restaurant guides that are pure gold when it comes to honest reviews–came out with a survey and guide to fast food and chain restaurants around the country. Stuff like McDonald’s, Wendy’s and, yep, Outback. Great, right?

They actually got hammered for it by smug foodies who swore they’d rather turn in their forks than ever eat at Applebees. Funny thing is, I’ll bet there are a whole lot more of you who actually want to know which giant chain has the best burger, the best shake, the crispiest fries and, overall, the healthiest food than where to get the most sustainable foie gras or which completely over-rated restaurant is worth spending $250 on.

Frankly, I find the whole thing brilliant. Because while I usually devote my energy to talking about local restaurants and chefs with noble ideals, sometime a girl just needs to grab a quick bite and get on with it.

So, whatever your socio-political-economic stance, here are a few outtakes you may want to consider on your next Micky D’s run. I mean, if you’re into that kind of thing-

• Wendy’s wins overall for their burgers and generally popularity. (BiteClub is a huge fan of the Frescata sandwiches, though the décor and sometimes wacky clientele at the Santa Rosa Ave. location leave something to be desired)
• Outback Steakhouse: Number one full-service chain (Come on: Who can touch the Bloomin’ Onion?)
• McDonald’s was rated tops for fries and child-friendliness (Only fast food fries I’ll eat, uh, willingly.)
• Dairy Queen has the surveyors’ favorite milkshakes, followed by McDonald’s and Sonic. (Why, oh why don’t we have a Sonic nearby?)
• Find more details here: http://www.zagat.com/promo.aspx?pn=37

Interestingly enough, the survey (Zagat’s asks real people for their opinions) also found that 93% of their readers were very concerned about things like trans-fats and 96% said they’d actually eat MORE fast food if the industry would actually ban them.
Take it for what it’s worth.

And uh, see you at the drive-through.

What’s your take? Evil empire or fact of life? And, what’s your favorite fast food?

**First off, the fact that my friend is Italian and has a wife who is a killer cook gets him off the hook. I also realize there is a rather small contingency of people who staunchly eschew fast food/restaurant chains for a whole myriad of reasons that have all sorts of social and ecological merit. Finally, I admit that most fast food is horrible for you and makes you fat. But sometimes a bag of burgers are a fact of life. Talk to me when you’re a single mom on a budget trying to feed two young children three decent meals a day, seven days a week while working a full-time job.

Seafood lovers might want to think twice before biting into that shrimp, tilapia or catfish. China, the world’s leading seafood supplier, has come under serious scrutiny by the FDA for exporting several types of farm-raised fish and shellfish that have been found to contain significant amounts of carcinogens and contamination.

How do you know if your seafood is from China? Well, you may not. According to the FDA, no current law or regulation requires that fish offered for sale to U.S. consumers be labeled regarding the products’ country of origin. “However, FDA believes that consumers need not be concerned about whether or not the seafood they purchase is from China, because the agency’s import alert will prohibit the entry into U.S. commerce of violative seafood products from China.“

Officially, the Food and Drug Administration has issued an “alert”, though not an outright ban, on farm-raised catfish, basa, shrimp, dace and eel from China. Any shipments of the seafood will have to be proven to be free of drugs and residues not approved in the US.

“We’re taking this strong step because of current and continuing evidence that certain Chinese aquaculture products imported into the United States contain illegal substances that are not permitted in seafood sold in the United States,” said Dr. David Acheson, FDA’s assistant commissioner for food protection. This includes, according to the FDA, unapproved veterinary drugs. “We will accept entries of these products from Chinese firms that demonstrate compliance with our requirements and safety standards.”

Though there have been no reports of illnesses from these imported seafoods, the FDA has concerns that continued long-term exposure could be dangerous.

Here are some statistics you may want to consider:

– 90% of the total US supply of shrimp is imported, 11.5% is from China
– 99% of the total US imports of catfish is from China
– 100% of US supply of basa is imported, 8% of the total US imports of basa is from China

Read more at the FDA FAQ site.

 
Heather,
I thought I would drop you a line and let you know about a new spot in Windsor that is incredible. Maybe you have already heard about Odyssey. It is in the former spot of L’Assiette, kind of hidden away just off the town green, but it’s soul is 1000’s of miles away. It is hip and modern, and shows Fellini films on the wall like Foreign Cinema in SF. It is to Windsor what St. Rose Cafe is to S.R.
We started off mixed olives and rosemary flatbread, $5. I can’t really describe how great it was other than to say it is right out of Italy. Grilled local sardines with fennel and arugula sauce. Awesome!! Seared tuna with fava bean tortelli and white bean puree, could have been a plate from Cyrus!! Pizza Margherita could have right out of Da’ Michele in
Naples. The prices are right too.
Maybe you can tell I am very excited about this place. I just heard about it this morning from two different people and just got back from a late dinner. They will serve until 10 weekdays and 11 on weekends. It reminds me of the hip small bar/restaurants that you see in Italy. The chef, Rudy, worked at Gramercy Tavern in NYC, then moved to Southern Italy after 9/11 and lived/worked there for several years.
They have been open 5 weeks, but will not fly under the radar much longer.
Just Go!!!
Jeff Mall,
Zin Restaurant
BiteClub has heard about Odyssey (from several of you) and made a couple of trips up, only to find it closed. Drat! They’re not open for lunch and are closed on Sunday and Monday. Stay tuned for more details. I’m on my way!

Odyssey, 426 Emily Rose Circle, Windsor, (707) 836.7600. Get directions
 

Okay, it’s time for the ultimate coffee vote-down. Tell BiteClub the spot that you can’t miss in the morning. Who’s got the best beans, the best baristas, the best morning nibbles and the absolute-can’t-miss macchiato? Cast your vote for the best spot in SoCo and we’ll feature the top bets for when you’re jonesing for java.

Leave your comments below, or email me at biteclub@pressdemo.com.

My faves: Can’t miss my non-fat raspberry latte at Holy Roast (490 Mendocino Ave., Santa Rosa. 707.523.3137). But for the best nibbles, I’ll walk a mile any day for an espresso and an ‘everything bagel with butter’ at Grateful Bagel (1015 4th St., Santa Rosa, 527.7530).

Quick update on the status of Anatolia and the space’s new resident, Stout Brothers Pub.

Jeremy Crone, a partner in the new Irish pub and restaurant says that they’ll be working on refurnishing the spot through the summer and are looking at a Sept. 1 opening date. Stay tuned.

Meantime, fans of Moose Jamal’s Mediterranean cafe, Anatolia are wondering just what happened. Jamal, reached at his Cotati restaurant, Cafe Salsa, says that the rent just got too high for the restaurant in downtown SR. Though he promised regulars he’d be re-opening soon, the deal seems to have fallen through, and he’s still looking for another location in Santa Rosa.

Jamal continues to run Cafe Salsa (Cafe Salsa 8230 Old Redwood, Cotati) and is a partner in the Redwood Cafe (8240 Old Redwood Hwy, Cotati, 795.7868).

Meanwhile, if you’ve got an absolute hankering for pitas and hummus, BiteClub recently stopped by the new East West Cafe (2323 Sonoma Ave., Santa Rosa, 707.546.6142). The interior has been transformed from rustic BBQ joint to a bright, bubbling oasis. We tried several dishes, including the hummus and babah ganoush which were reasonably tasty (though crying out for more spice). The chicken schwarma plate, which is a pita stuffed with grilled chicken, hummus, grilled tomatoes and onions, was on the right track, but again–and I fully admit this is a recurring issue I have with ‘healthier’ restaurants–just kind of lacking in the Uumph! department. And here’s the rub: The basil vinagrette dressing on my side salad was incredible, tasty, zingy and alive. So I know flavor is possible. Am I crazy? Taste buds overly stimulated? Or right on track?

Tell me your take on East West

Tons of great stuff this weekend-where to start? You’ll find BiteClub and Co. milling around at least a few of these. Come say hi!

Saturday:
– Matanzas Creek Winery Days of Wine and Lavender: If you love lavender, this is the place to be. Sadly, the event is sold out, so hopefully you already have your tickets. If not, just drive by the winery and breathe deeply.

– Build a Better Burger Fire-Up at COPIA: Console yourself by indulging in all things ground-beef at COPIA today as Burger Judge and cookbook author James McNair answers your every question about how to make a truly spectacular burger. Plus cooking demos and a luncheon. Check out copia.org for more details.

– Check out the Grand Opening of the Peterson Winery tasting room in Healdsburg. With the motto, No Soul-Less wines, Peterson’s place is simple and rustic and his wines, well…see what you think. Chef Dan Lucia pairs appetizers with the new wine releases. 4791 Dry Creek Rd, Bldg #7, Healdsburg, 707-431-7568

Sunday:
– Sonoma-Marin Fair: Okay, call me disappointed, but still hopeful. After pretty much getting shut out of the Ugliest Dog Contest (local and national media were pushed about 15 feet away from the stage by security, but the intrepid Crista persevered!) and finding the “Sustainable Agriculture: Farm to Table Showcase” was a group of about five vendors shoved into a tiny, almost un-navigable hallway (kudos for the idea, but BiteClub certainly hopes the execution will improve “check out Frances Rivetti’s coverage, which was a bit more optomistic), I’m headed BACK to the fair on Sunday with food blogger Meloni Courtaway for some fried twinkies and a trip to the Wine Garden to check out Chris Sawyer’s chat on the Petaluma Gap wines (2:30). Oops. I see a conflict already…

– Also in Petaluma, don’t miss the book-signing and meet-and-greet with my awesome buddy, Heidi Swanson at Copperfield’s Bookstore, 3 pm, 140 Kentucky Street, Petaluma, 707.762.0563. Okay, I won’t pretend to be objective here, but this is one event you don’t want to miss. Heidi’s the author of Super Natural Cooking, a gorgeous cookbook filled with her photography and recipes that incorporate unusual and highly nutritious grains, alternative sugars and lots of fruits and veggies. Forget what you know about natural cooking–Heidi is a hip, amazingly informed author who’ll have you using quinoa, wakame and black turtle beans in no time.

Youngstown, Ohio is not known as a hotbed of culinary culture, unless you really love
pierogi and well, pretty much anything batter-dipped and fried. Not to demean
its myriad other wonderful qualities (vague mob connections, corrupt
congressmen and hearing about the good old days of steel), but as a 23-year-old
foodie stuck on the cops and courts beat for the Youngstown Vindicator (yeah,
seriously), I spent a fair amount of time in search of things like Brie and
Camembert. In glamorous places like Cleveland, Akron and Pittsburgh.

Suffice to say, I love cheese. Enough to drive miles for the
good stuff.

Inspired by local cheese goddess, Laura Werlin’s recent naming of the world’s
best cheeses–The World!–in Aspen,
BiteClub was on a hunt to find all nine here in SoCo. Even the really rare
stuff, like a truffled cheese from the small town of Bertagni, Italy.

Mission
accomplished (mostly). Tucked quietly into a Center Street mini-mall, Doralice
Handal’s Cheese Shop in Healdsburg (423
Center Street, Healdsburg, 707.433.4998) is a
dark, cool cheese sanctuary that hits you with a blast of unmistakably funky
cheese smell when you walk in. Yep. This is the place. Piled high on the
counters and in the refrigerator are dozens of slices–from runny and gooey to
blue, truffled and wine-soaked. I try not to swoon.

Doralice, who’s a bit reserved, opens up when you start talking cheese. She’s
just one of those people who just adores what she does, having cut her teeth in
the restaurant biz and most recently working with the rock star cheese gals at
Cowgirl Creamery.

She blasts through Werlin’s list. Most of the cheeses (or very close facsimiles) are in-store. Fortunately, it’s cheese season, she tells me. Cheese has a season? Apparently goat cheese is at
its prime and many of the other cheeses just happen to be at their best at this
time of year.

Whatever Doralice doesn’t have, she’ll special order in her constant search for new discoveries from around the world–from Healsburg’s Pug’s Leap goat’s milk cheese, to Rogue Creamery’s “Oregon Blue” to
insanely small-production artisan cheeses from France, Italy and Portugal.

All this with, thankfully, no trips to Cleveland.

Grab your cheese basket and get munching. Werlin’s “Best Cheese” list and local availability…

–
Brillat-Savarin: An indulgent French triple-cream Brie.
I ate an entire wedge on the ride back from Hburg and don’t regret it for an
instant. Cheese Shop: In stock, $20lb.

–
La Tur, Caseficio Dell’Alta Langa, Italy: A soft
goat’s milk cheese. Cheese Shop: Doralice suggests the Robbiolo, a cow, goat
& sheep’s milk cheese. $30lb

–
Lincolnshire
Poacher: One of my absolute favorite cheeses, this is a cheddar-style English
cheese that has an intense, sharp flavor like browned butter. Cheese Shop: In
stock, $28lb.

–
Comte: A rare French cheese that has some similar
qualities to Gruyere. Nice for melting. Cheese Shop: Currently out of Comte,
but comes in regularly. Several cave-aged Gruyere’s in stock, $17lb.

–
Formaggio al
Tartufo, Bertagni, Italy: A soft cheese infused with
black truffles. Cheese Shop: Try a Sardinian truffled sheep’s cheese, $30lb

–
Testun al Barolo: Love this cheese that’s aged in
Nebbiolo and Dolcetto grape must, giving it a purple sheen and a little crunch
on top. Cheese Shop: Testun Ubriaco from Verona,
$24lb

–
Queijos Serra de Estrela, Matias, Portugal: A sheep’s
milk cheese with incredible flavor. Cheese Shop: Try Torta La Serena, a similar
cheese from Portugal,
$24lb

–
Cayuga Blue, Lively Run Goat Dairy,
US: A soft, pungent blue from
New York.
Cheese Shop: Doralice recommends one of her favorites, the Bayley Hazen Blue
from Vermont
at $21lb.

If you go: Don’t miss the June Taylor Gravenstein Apple Butter ($11). Made in Berekley, it’s heaven with cheese. Doralice also has some great local Rose wine to pair with your cheese.

Milkshakes. Beer. Together, what could be more American, and more perfect for the first day of summer. In the interest of some serious culinary R&D, BiteClub took on the rather open-eneded recipe from we recently got from Samuel Adams for a Cream Stout beer milkshake:

– One cup ice cream (see results below for optimal pairing)
– One cup milk
– 2 Tbsp sugar (I found this unnecessary)
– 1Tbsp malt powder
– 3 Tbsp Samuel Adams Cream Stout (frankly, using a little more is
fine. You can use any type of beer, but a stouter beer lends a
chocolate & caramel tone that’s especially nice)

Blend and serve.

You see the problem here. What kind of ice cream? BiteClub smelled a trip to the freezer section to find out.

Purchased: Vanilla Haagen-Dazs, Ben & Jerry’s Crème Brulee, chocolate Haagen-Dazs, Hawaiian Lehua honey & sweet cream (a new Reserve flavor from Haagen-Dazs), coffee Haagen-Dazs, and Dulce de Leche Haagen-Dazs.

Now, this whole idea, as you might have read previously, stemmed from an Aspen
luncheon featuring a rather upscale version of the beer milkshake paired
with a buttercream beer cake and beer ice cream. Yeah. After spending a small fortune on ice cream, BiteClub paired the shakes more modest snacks: Kettle Buffalo Bleu chips, Safeway organic pretzels and ball park in-shell peanuts.

With the help of my favorite beverage and snack consultant, Jason, BiteClub and Co. conducted a late-night blind tasting (meaning neither of us knew which flavor we were drinking) and paired each shake with a salty snack.

After 25 minutes at the blender and some very sticky fingers, here are the results of the BiteClub’s Beer Milkshake Taste-Off for your stout-inspired bliss:

A. Vanilla Beer Milkshake: A great, even flavor if not totally exciting. Pairs great with pretzels and VH1.

B. Crème Brulee Beer Milkshake: Thought the caramel and cream might work. Ick. Dead wrong. Waay to sweet. Teeth hurting. Save ice cream for slathering over fresh raspberries.

C. Chocolate Beer Milkshake: A nice bitterness and darkness to contrast the sweetness of the ice cream. Pairs delightfully with Buffalo chips and Barry White.

D. Honey Beer Milkshake: Not terrible for a dessert. Spoon over your partner.

E. Coffee Beer Milkshake: Ding, ding, we have a winner. “This would be damn good in the morning,” reports Jason. Intense and robust, it’s the only milkshake that we could really taste the beer in. Pair with cold pizza and a cigarette. Or, you know, a little Baileys if you’re feeling frisky.

F. Dulce de Leche Beer Milkshake: Dulce de Icky. Again, hoping the caramel flavors would work well. Nope. But after five beer milkshakes, we can’t really promise objectivity.

Best bets: Coffee ice cream is the clear winner here, with chocolate in second and vanilla a distant third. But in the end, BiteClub has to admit that when it comes to beer, ice cream and potato chips, there really is no wrong way about it.

Samuel Adams Cream Stout is available at BevMo, $7.99; all other supplies purchased at Safeway.

Talk about a page turner. I was up half the night
reading the new “House of Mondavi: The Rise and Fall of an American Wine
Dynasty” by Julia Flynn Siler. Unlike many Wine Country bios, the book
reads like a novel, jam-packed with juicy tidbits about the powerful Mondavi
family. But while many have assigned malicious intent to the author, my read
(at least so far) is that Siler lays on plenty of kudos to the family for its
pioneering attitude and driven leader, Robert Mondavi, while presenting the
very human foibles that all of us can identify with.

A quick quote from the book: An aging, slightly
out-of-it Robert sits at the 2004 Auction Napa Valley and sees his Mondavi lot go for far less
than its worth-

“(T)he moment was poignant for the onlookers at the
auction that day who understood the drama playing out in the Mondavi empire. A
lot offered by Napa’s most famous
family was bought at a fire sale price by one of their company’s fiercest
rivals from neighboring Sonoma County
(Jess Jackson). Was the bid symbolic of Jackson’s
rising strength in the industry and Mondavi’s fading glory? Was it a kind
gesture aimed at sparing Robert from further humbling? Or was it a
foreshadowing of what was to come “with Jackson
and other potential predators at that very moment eyeing Mondavi’s many
attractive properties.”

The
book went on sale yesterday, as as of late afternoon, there were still
plenty of copies on sale at the downtown SR Barnes and Noble. Trust me, this is an unauthorized bio you’ll want to read around the pool. Uh, maybe with a nice glass of Mondavi wine?

+++++++

Plus, two quick morning hits-SEA Thai restaurant of Petaluma will
open its Santa Rosa outpost next
Monday, June 25 in the former East West Café spot in Montgomery
Village. BiteClub expects to be first in line.

BiteClub has confirmed that a popular Wine Country bistro is currently in talks
to acquire the former Mixx restaurant space in Santa Rosa’s
Railroad Square. I first heard about the potential sale while in Aspen, chatting with several SoCo chefs. The spot
was apparently of great interest to top toques because of the area’s
booming scene, but rumor has it that the price was pretty steep. Our fingers
are crossed for this deal to go through. More details to come.