UPDATE David Lin stopped by the offices of the Press Democrat today (10/11) to show BiteClub his newly redesigned menu. Chin has made a number of significant changes to the menu–deleting several dishes that also appear on Ume’s menu as well as reordering and renaming some dishes they continue to share. Chin asserts that many of his dishes are inspired by his work with the Japanese staff at Shogun and are classic Asian dishes. Is it enough to convince loyal Ume fans?

A serious sushi smackdown is brewing in SoCo. After BiteClub’s recent write-up of Toyo Sushi Bar and Japanese Bistro in Santa Rosa, the owners of Ume Japanese Bistro in Windsor are taking serious issue with the newcomer’s menu.

Kelly Shu, owner of Ume (winner of BiteClub’s “Best Sushi”), emailed BiteClub the following message over the weekend, along with copies of both her menu (click here) and that of Toyo (click here).

“It was-brought to our attention by some customers that Toyo has an almost identical menu as Ume, down to the font. It’s upsetting to learn that our effort and creation can be blatantly plagiarized. We just wanted to clarify that although the menus are the same, Ume has no association whatsoever with Toyo.“

A side by side comparison of the menus did reveal some rather startling simlarities. As in exactly the same dishes in exactly the same order in several places. The “Favorites” section is listed in exactly the same order from Ankimo to Black and Blue on both menus and even the descriptions and fonts are identical. (I compared the Ume menu with my own copy of the Toyo takeout menu, just for fairness’ sake.)

And while the ubiquity of California rolls, tempura, bento boxes and even “martini prawns” (on both Toyo and Ume’s menu described as Margarita Poppers) I get, it doesn’t take a rocket scientist to see that this case seems to go well beyond a few similarities. Hmmm.

Smelling something not quite right, I called Toyo owner David Lin, who’s been around the Japanese block in Santa Rosa. Both he and wife Lisa, he claims, have worked the local Asian restaurant circuit including Shogun and Senju. Wife Lisa, he tells me, did work at Ume.

But Lin claims Ume’s accusations of plagiarism are misguided. “They make a dragon roll. We make a dragon roll. We’ve worked in the restaurant business for many years. We all have many of the same dishes.” Lin throws a counter-point, saying that he’s been having trouble with sake distributors who say they’ll only work with Ume. “Really, this doesn’t feel good,” says Lin. “We are all Chinese. I don’t know why they don’t help me. I’m in Santa Rosa, they’re in Windsor. We’re in different places.”

For years, many chefs have taken it as a matter of course that departing kitchen staff would likely lift their signature dishes and take them elsewhere. But lifting a dish or two is one thing. Lifting nearly an entire menu, almost word for word, is another. Recently, a NYC chef, Rebecca Charles, threatened to sue one of her former sous-chefs who opened an imitation restaurant, with nearly an identical menu, less than a mile away.

So, is this a case of great minds thinking a like? Or things being a little too close for comfort? Stay tuned.

As a former resident of both New York and Chicago, I’ve purposely laid a bit low on the whole Wine Country pizza debate.

For one thing, the definition of pizza ’round these parts is almost impossible to nail down. Is a salad on top of pizza crust a pizza? Is goat cheese and arugula? And, come on, what’s with the whole wheat crust thing?

The other issue? I’ve been mostly underwhelmed with the cardboard and gluey cheese horrors I’ve frequently found being passed off as pizza. Sorry, but putting spaghetti sauce on a frozen crust ain’t pizza. Yep. I just threw down that glove.

There are some notable exceptions:
– Rosso’s wood-fired pizzas. Fresh mozzarella, garlic, tomatoes-come on.
– NYPie: Solid New York style. But no slices?
– Bistro Don Giovanni: Fig and prosciutto.
– Odyssey: Arugula was never so good on a pizza
– Mombo’s: A slice of pesto never lets me down

So I pose the question to you, BiteClubbers. What’s the best slice of pie in the North Bay? White or red, clams or pepperoni? From New York style to California, Chicago or Sicilian, what rocks our little corner of the world? Is a wood-fired oven a necessity? Am I just crazy? Is there some truly outstanding pizza to be found in Sonoma?

Have at it.

Need somewhere to start? Peter Lowell’s in Sebastopol throws open the doors on Oct. 6 (Saturday) and promises to have some killer pies. Check out my preview. Or, be the first to lend your opinion about this mostly-vegetarian, all-organic newcomer.

In a blue collar neighborhood better known for its furniture warehouses than its cuisine, Toyo Sushi Bar has just been added to an intriguing lineup of ethnic eateries along Piner Road including Red Rose (southern BBQ); Royal China (upscale Chinese) and El Sombrero #2 (dive tacos).

Decidedly white-tablecloth, Toyo’s opening menu features yellowtail collar, quail eggs and monk fish pate (among more straightforward fare). Staking its claim into serious sushi, owners Lisa and David Lin have hired a Japanese chef to handle the sashimi and nigiri crowd while the kitchen cranks out tempura and teriyaki.

Just a few days old, the experienced local restaurateurs already have a handle on things. Presentation of everything from California rolls to simple Bento boxes are camera-ready–adding to carefully-cultivated vibe of the spot.

Worth trying: Toyo does its own version of the ubiquitous martini shrimp poppers (the new Crab Rangoon) served in a margarita glass; Dragon Eggs ($8.75) are quail eggs stuffed into crispy prawns with sweet chili sauce; and David recommends the Black and Blue–a seared piece of Ahi drizzled with “special sauce” (you’re on your own here).

The restaurant also features a broiled yellowtail collar, one of the most succulent parts of the fish, with ponzu sauce and scallions; baby octopus with daikon and seaweed; Saba Shioyaki (salted mackerel), along with family faves like Chicken Katsu (fried chicken Japanese-style); tempura and teriyaki. The lunch bento is a great deal at $11.95, with large portions of teriyaki, rice, a well-crafted California roll, salad and miso.

So here’s where things get serious: The sushi. Rolls run an entire page, with the usual suspects–Californian, Alaskan, Rock & Roll, etc. at the usual prices. The Summer Cooler ($12.95) includes spicy cooked prawns, red snapper, shiso and lemon slices. Honestly, I’ve been burned by too many mayo-and-mango roll disasters, and tend to stick with the simple stuff. The Ankimo ($4.75) is tops, with three small disks of monk fish pate on a shiso leaf. The bistro has a serviceable by-the-glass wine list along with several types of sake, sake cocktails and beers.

Located within the Piner & Marlow Shopping Center, parking spots are usually plentiful. The food is seriously good in such an unassuming Northwest Santa Rosa spot. And hey, who can complain when you can trip-link your Maguro with a massage, milkshake, taco and quick visit to the dentist?

Toyo Japanese Bistro, 3082 Marlow Road (the former Wharf Seafood Bar), Santa Rosa, 707.527.8871.

Chippery closed
From a weekend note to BiteClub: “What happened to the Chippery?!!?!?!?! My husband and I drove all the way across town to Montgomery Village last night to get our favorite burgers ever in all the world (because I fully agree with you that it’s hands down the best burger joint around), and they were CLOSED! Like, forever!!! My husband actually almost started to cry because he was so upset, and he’s been bitching about it all day talking about how he doesn’t know how to live without his Jesse James! Do you have any idea why they closed, or if they plan to re-open elsewhere?”

BiteClubbers noticed a sign in the Santa Rosa burger and chip joint saying that the spot was closed as of September 22. There was no answering machine or disconnection notice as of today, when we called. The website says the site is for sale, and I’m hoping for a return phone call from owner Jason Moore to explain the situation. As one of my absolute favorite burgers (it actually won the Best Buns in Town last year), we’re sorry to see it go.

Meanwhile, click here for BiteClubber’s other favorite burger spots.

Following some recent grumbles about Phyliss’ Giant Burgers, I headed over for another peek this weekend, and ended up cold. Surly service lackluster food won’t be bringing me back anytime soon. It’s too bad, because I loved grabbing a Heavenly Burger on my way to the Valley. Word up to the Marin transplant: That ain’t how we do in SoCo.

Best spot for Sonoma Valley picnic provisions
BiteClub finally got around to stopping into the Skyhawk Village Market this weekend and was mucho impressed with the spot. The small gourmet grocer is stocked with great produce, an impressive cheese counter, and a massive deli section with everything from spring rolls and roasted artichokes to make-your-own sandwiches and a nifty little salad station where you can get a hacked Hoisin chicken salad custom-made. It’s a perfect detour for fall picnic provisions. 5755 Mountain Hawk Dr., Santa Rosa, (707) 537-1954.

Next Iron Chef
In case you missed the recent buzz, the Food Network has announced the candidates for The Next Iron Chef. The show pits eight well-established chefs against each other for a coveted spot on the Iron Chef lineup along with Bobby Flay, Mario Batali, and the rarely seen Masaharu Morimoto and Cat Cora.

Two of the contestants, Chris Costentino (Incanto) and Traci Des Jardins (Jardiniere) are from San Francisco. Frankly, my money’s on Chris who is hands-down one of the most imaginative and talented chefs I’ve met in recent years. Check out his blog, Offal Good. He takes on Mario tonight, Oct. 1 at 8pm.

The bad news: I’d rather see Traci and Chris in the kitchen than hawking watches, shoes and crappy kitchenware, which ahem, has been known to happen to some other Iron Chefs.

UPDATE
Orsi’s closed
Downtown Italian eatery, Orsi’s, has closed. The spot on Fifth St. seems to be cursed since the closing of the popular Cafe Lolo several years ago, with two restaurants since failing in the spot. No word on whether the restaurant will re-open elsewhere. Meanwhile, a change of ownership and possible wine bar in the works at the former Nirvana, just around the block at 420 Mendocino.

A&W closing
Santa Rosa’s frosty rootbeer spot on Armory Drive will be closing on Sunday.

Syrah not for sale
Dozens of worried folks have been calling Syrah owner and chef, Josh Silvers wondering what the change of ownership sign is doing in the window of his popular Railroad Square restaurant. Silvers says not to worry, the restaurant is not for sale. He was required to post the sign after he and his wife changed their sole ownership of the business into a trust for their son. Meanwhile, as the season gets cooler, Silvers is working on a new menu with plenty of tasty fall dishes, including (yum) sweetbreads. The duck and crabcakes, however, will remain as always.

Mixx-ed up
The former Mixx spot has been in flux for months, but rumor has it that the spot has finally been taken over by local restaurateurs who have plans for a high-end Cal-Ital pizza spot. With so many similar concepts opening all around the North Bay, call us non-plussed at the news. Hopefully we heard wrong.

Cuban hopes dashed
Plans for a Sebastopol Cuban restaurant have been back-burnered. We’ve heard that health-issues with the potential owner are halting things. Suffice to say, everyone’s mucho disappointed. We clearly need some interesting ethnic in these parts.
UPDATE BiteClub just heard from Marta Wright, who was working on the proposed restaurant. The longtime owner of Champagne Taste Caterers (and native Cuban) tells me that she has been serving up her “Cuban Chicken” at events for quite some time. But with her busy schedule, she just wasn’t ready for the commitment of a full-time restaurant. She says to stay tuned, however, for some special “Cuban Guateques” she’s hoping to host, featuring music and a whole roast pig.

Tuscany Reborn?
The former Tuscany Restaurant on Cleveland Ave. in Santa Rosa has re-opened as Sonoma Village Ristorante, featuring American and Italian cuisine. And, uh, Mexican. The menu is all over the map, from chile relleno to chicken saltimbocca. With little else to choose from in the area, it’s a passable lunch spot, with hefty salads, burgers and Panini sandwiches. Entrees, however, don’t quite stand up to their $12 to $14 price tags. The restaurant is open for lunch, dinner and breakfast/brunch on the weekend. 3381 Cleveland Ave., Santa Rosa.

Just in time for this weekend’s Taste of Petaluma (this Saturday, Sept. 29 from noon to 4), several new Theater Square (along Petaluma Blvd. south, in downtown Petaluma) restaurants have swung open their doors. Here’s a quick sneak preview of the menus-

Tres Hombres officially opened yesterday. The interior is much more luxe than your standard taco bar restaurant, with cozy booths, lots of wood and an extra long bar for tequila tasting flights. There’s a separate margarita menu, featuring everything from blended fruit sippers to traditional shaken margaritas made with their premium tequilas. The menu ranges from quick bites at the taco bar to Tex-Mex classics (nachos, quesadillas, burritos), to more intriguing entrees like the Mojito Chicken (a marinated chicken breast topped with mint and lim glaze) and Argentine Hangar steak. Expect a casual, but refined vibe at this newcomer. BiteClub was actually pleasantly surprised that the feel was less Chico State (their other outpost is in the bustling party town) and more, well, the carefully cultivated urban feel of Theater Square. They’ll be featuring tastes from the taco bar this weekend.

La Dolce Vita: Also recently opened, this starkly modern wine bar specializes in a number of Petaluma Gap wines along with small-production gems from the rest of California and Italy. The menu stays simple, featuring antipasti (right now an artisan cheese plate); upscale salads and panini. There are likely to be a few changes to the menu as things get ironed out, so we’ll check back seeon. Don’t miss the tantalizing flight and by-the-glass menu. The bar will stay open late on Friday and Saturday nights–a great post-movie destination.

I mentioned the addition of Jennie Low’s last week. The menu is pretty classic, with the usual Chinese-American favorites. However, Low has included some lighter dishes worth trying, in addition to her signature lemon chicken.

I’ve become an Oteao bubble tea addict. Hand-shaken, the mango version is worth the trip alone. They’ll be serving up samples at this weekend’s event. Get more details on other bites around town, maps and ticket info at TasteofPetaluma.org.

Aliens among us?
If you head down to P-town for Taste, don’t miss a stop into Hiro’s for a bottle of Xtreme Alien soda. About as much fun as you can have with a bottle of orange pop, it’s teen-focused screamer created by Hiro (a former Coca-Cola exec) that requires some serious hands-on interaction. The funky glass bottle requires drinkers to punch down a glass marble into the neck, steer clear of the resulting carbon explosion, then carefully guzzle from the correct side of the bottle (where the alien’s eyes are) to get all the soda down. Trust me, your kids will love it even if you don’t get it. Though this interactive bottle style has been around in Asia for years, it’s a surprisingly novel idea in the US, and currently only available in Sonoma County.

BiteClubber Jim asks: Where in Santa Rosa or in the county of Sonoma can I find Monte Cristo sandwiches?

America’s answer to the Croque Monsieur, the batter-dipped Monte Cristo sandwich was a beloved diner staple throughout the 60s and early 70s. But like Shirley Temples, meatloaf and pot roast, it faded into food obscurity as the Age of Sprouts and Tofu dawned.

But oh, the Monte Cristo. For a generation of kids raised on PB&J, Lil’ Smokies and Chef Boyardee this tooth-pick-studded dazzler was about as good as food could get. Little more than a few layers of bread, ham, turkey and Swiss cheese dropped in egg batter, fried to within an inch of its life and sprinkled with powdered sugar it seemed exotic and grown up. Topped with syrup and raspberry preserves was almost more than my little brain could handle. Hey, it was the 70s.

But BiteClub’s not the only one who remembers this sandwich fondly. “It’s just a classic,” says Mike Thibault, chef at Willow Wood Café and Market in Graton. Thibault makes his own version, with challah bread, black forest ham, and a batter of eggs and Haagen Dazs vanilla ice cream for enthusiastic Sunday brunchers. “We don’t mess around with it too much,” he says. Though its not actually fried in a deep fryer, like many of the classics, it’s has become a favorite. “Yeah, it’s really become a monster,” Thibault adds.

Inspired by a Monte Cristo he was once served by a bartender at the venerable Belvedere (they no longer serve the sandwich, sadly), Thibault and BiteClub both agree that aside from nostalgia, the sandwich is a hell of a hangover cure. Sweet, salty, carbo-loaded and fried–it’s a kick start to an otherwise nasty morning.

Mark Stark has also put the classic sandwich on his menu at Monti’s in Santa Rosa’s Montgomery Village. More about the play on the name (his is called the Monti Cristo) than any particular nostalgia, the sandwich made of Westphalian ham, gruyere and sweet onion jam on toasted brioche has been around since the restaurant’s opening.

Wondering where the idea for such a sandwich came from originally? Its history is a bit murky, but some think it may have originated in Los Angeles in the 1940s. It came into the national spotlight when Disney’s Blue Bayou Restaurant opened in 1966, featuring the dish. Check out the recipe.

What’s your food question? Email me at biteclub@pressdemo.com

Can’t get enough? Watch a vide on how to make your own from Ctrl-Alt-Chicken.

My usual beat on the food circuit–new openings and funky food trends–has one very distinct disadvantage: I rarely haunt tried and true restaurants with proven menus. And while bacon on a trapeze and opening nights clearly have cache and appeal, its hard to describe the relief of sitting down at a nearly decade-old spot like San Francisco’s Delfina and just knowing that the food’s going to be spot-on and jitter-free.

Located in San Francisco’s revitalizing Mission district, Delfina has been wowing neighborhood locals, as well as the national food media with its trattoria-style Cal-Italian since 1998. On weekend nights, crowds still overflow onto the sidewalk and into the romantic back patio. You’ll be hard-pressed to get in before 10pm unless you’ve made reservations or are willing to sit at the bar--which frankly I recommend highly. With an up-close and personal view of the kitchen, you can see the kind of serious intensity that makes the food so consistently good here. I mean eye-rolling, pounding-on-the-table and embarrassing your friends kind of good.

The menu changes up daily, but Saturday night’s fresh-stretched mozzarella ($11) was the best I’ve had since Italy, with soft, fresh garden tomatoes and basil oil. Grilled calamari with white bean salad ($9.25) is a house specialty (and almost always on the menu), but don’t miss the chance to nibble on skewered San Joaquin Valley snails ($11) if you have the chance.

Though salads and pastas sound almost impossibly simple (lettuce with radishes, gorgonzola, egg and lemon vinaigrette; bitter greens with pancetta and walnuts; spaghetti with plum tomatoes, garlic and olive oil; spaghetti in squid ink with zucchini and butter), Chef Craig Stoll’s well-known fastidiousness about ingredients raises even the humblest dishes to star-caliber. Simple fries get a sprinkling of fried basil; rosemary pumps up the flavor of un-messed with flatiron steak ($22); roast chicken ($18, and another house specialty that rivals Zuni Café’s) sports a crispy jacket, but stays impossibly moist inside.

Barista-chic is the norm with serving staff, which only adds to the neighborhood vibe. Solid knowledge of the mostly Italian wine list and thoughtful pairing suggestions, however, quickly allay any concerns about uneven service. They’ll also explain menu puzzlers like snail spiedini and suga di pomodorini and without snickering at your abysmal Italian. There’s a solid by-the-glass list with several daily additions on the board for those that like a little beverage diversity with their meal. Corkage is a steep $18.

Save room for dessert. The buttermilk panna cotta ($8) with lemon caramel and raspberries is another house specialty.

Benchmark Italian dining on a bistro budget. And after nearly ten years, only getting better.

Delfina, 3621 18th Street, San Francisco, 415.552.4055.

If you go: SF’s revitalizing Mission area can still be a bit, er, colorful. The blocks around Delfina tend to be bustling with well-heeled diners, but wandering too far off the beaten path can get a little sketchy. Parking can be a real hassle, so leave plenty of time to look for a spot. Cab service is frequent around the restaurant if you want to leave your car elsewhere.

Despite what some of you may think, the life of a food writer isn’t all foie gras and Kobe beef. Not by a long-shot.

Like everybody else, I eat plenty of bad take-out, mega chain burgers, Lean Cuisines and hot dogs.
And during most of those everyday meals, I pretty much shut off my foodie brain and try to get the whole thing over as quickly as possible, dreaming of my next great culinary adventure.

But sandwiches are another thing entirely. I’m a sandwich snob. Not in a prosciutto and sundried tomato way (though I do like those very much), but more in a “Is this roll crunchy? Is this meat overly processed? Is that avocado fresh?” kind of way. I actually have a mental checklist just for mayonnaise (must be slightly sweet, not overly glopped on and in no way resemble my arch nemesis, Miracle Whip).

So you may not be too surprised to know that when it comes to soft rolls and shaved meat, I have some definite preferences. Several big names don’t make my list. Frankly, there are some pitifully over-rated spots around these parts that survive mostly on good will. I also avoid chains whenever possible (you’ll see that I make one notable exception) because of some nasty run-ins with slimy meat and salt overload.

Instead check out some of the locals-only spots where I hang out (frequently), and don’t be too surprised if I’m number 37 to your 38 at the deli counter, ordering a straight-up turkey and cheese or salami and mustard.

Life can’t be all champagne wishes and caviar dreams.

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BiteClub’s All Star Lunch On the Run Sammich Line Up

– Today’s New Favorite: BBQ beef on Dutch Crunch with onions, cheddar and mayo from Sam’s Market on South E and Clark, Santa Rosa. Serious sandwich artistry.

– Absolute best carne asada tortas are at the taco truck outside Joyeria Angelica on Sebastopol Avenue, Santa Rosa.

– Turkey and swiss cheese from Big John’s Food Center in Healdsburg

– Pesto and mozzarella Panini from Santa Rosa’s Fourth St. Deli (corner of Fourth and Mendocino)

– Traverso’s smoked turkey and sundried tomato spread

– Pork cheek at Healdsburg’s Bovolo

– Pearson’s grilled veggie sandwich

– Okay, don’t hate me, but Safeway makes a mean turkey, avocado on a sourdough roll. Slathered with mayo, it’s a little bit of heaven.

Where are your favorite sandwich spots?