Page 593 – Sonoma Magazine

Thai Time | Santa Rosa

May 2011

By biteclub

We are a county in love with Thai food. There now four in the heart of downtown, more than 20 within Santa Rosa city limits, and another 15 or so (by my quick count) in surrounding ‘burbs.

That’s a lot of green curry and Pad Thai.

Despite the already crowded market, Thai Time in downtown Santa Rosa recently opened its doors to a peanut-sauce craving public. Located in the former Golden Dragon location, the space has been transformed — bright natural light coming in the front windows, blazing red walls, crisp tablecloths and new service ware — into a more welcoming eat-in and takeout space.

Having already tested the restaurant waters in Cloverdale, the family-run restaurant has all the major bases covered. Pad Thai, satay with peanut sauce, Drunken Noodles, papaya salad, Thai iced tea, Tom-yum soup and curries are all on the menu. Lunch specials run thrifty $8 and include rice and a salad.

In addition, the restaurant has a number of higher end “Chef’s Creations” for dinner including roasted duck curry ($16), sole with tamarind sauce, Filet mignon ($20), Lamb Kabobs and the gigglishly named Ole’s Fruity Seafood ($22) which includes prawns, scallops and crab with mango, lychee, pineapple and seasonal veggies in a a pumpkin curry sauce. It’s a tasty, if odd treat, mixing seafood with Asian fruits.

Get this: Green curry is a knock-out, along with the Santa Rosa Parade appetizer ($16) that’s a filling plate with 14 mostly fried bites of shrimp, chicken, wontons, spring rolls and satay. The Tweety Basket ($7) has crispy egg noodles with sweet-sour sauce, shallots, cilantro, carrots, mint and nuts. Fortune bags ($7) are wonton purses filled with ground chicken and sweet potatoes. Peanut noodles are a great pick with rice noodles, peanut sauce and steamed broccoli, along with Cashew Chicken that’s sweet and salty.

Skip this: Pad thai, a benchmark for any Thai eatery, missed. Done right, its all about the wok hay, which this didn’t have. More breath, less sauce.

Service is fawning and friendly as owners and staff work to build up a loyal clientele.

Thai Time Asian Bistro, 402 Mendocino Ave, Santa Rosa, 707-526-7777. Open daily for dinner from 5pm. Lunch Monday through Saturday, 11:30 to 3pm.thaitimeasianbistro.com

Summerfield Waldorf School & Farm | Santa Rosa

May 2011

By biteclub

In my happiest daydreams, I am Wendel the rat terrier.

The pouncing pup spends his days patrolling muddy rows of organic vegetables, sniffing at a velvety baby calves, herding naughty chickens, nipping at his master’s heels and bounding through grassy apple orchards at the Summerfield Waldorf School & Farm. Not a bad way to spend the day.

This idyllic wonderland, punctuated by tree swings and ancient oak trees spreading their shady limbs into impromptu forts, is one of Wine Country’s most sought-after educational programs. Using nature as part of it’s curriculum, children from the kindergarten through high school plant, tend, harvest and eat from the private school’s on-site farm.

More than a hobby garden, the two acre complex is headed by full-time farmer Dana Revallo. Each year it produces thousands of pounds of vegetables and fruits, eggs, milk and dried beans that end up in the school’s own lunch program, sold to school families, or at the nearby Sebastopol Whole Foods.

“We’re feeding ourselves and our community,” said Revallo, who is usually accompanied by the feisty Wendel.

Strolling the grounds, Revallo points to a still-muddy patch of land that last year yielded 3,000 pounds of winter squash, 800 pounds of onions, 400 pounds of garlic, corn, spelt used for flour, potatoes and beans. A tractor tills the soil near eighty espaliered apple trees — limbs grown on trellises like grape vines to increase sunlight and ease picking — are blossoming pink and white in the sunlight, and last year yielded 1,500 hundred pounds of organic fruit. Not perfect fruit, mind you, but pesticide-free fruit. “I’m trying to teach people that fruit doesn’t have to look perfect to taste good,” Revallo said.

It’s a collective experiment that engages the students into learning about where food actually comes from — from seed to table. While Revallo chats, young students dump food scraps into the farm’s compost bin (wrinkling their noses and washing empty buckets after wards), then heading back to class. According to Revallo, the school’s third graders are the school’s most avid farmers, taking responsibility for the main farming block, though all grades are involved in helping to maintain the agricultural oasis.

“Digging carrots out of the ground is magical to these kids,” Revallo said.

Pouncing and pawing at a tiny critter scurrying through the growth, Wendel the terrier seems to agree wholeheartedly.

Summerfield Waldorf School & Farm: 655 Willowside Rd, Santa Rosa, 707-575-7194

The Summerfield Waldorf School hosts its annual Farm to Feast event aturday, May 14, 2011 with a top-notch group of chefs and restaurateurs including Traci Des Jardins of Jardiniere, Duskie Estes and John Stewart from Zazu, Cyrus’ Nick Peyton and host of other notable locals. The event raises funds for school scholarships. More details.

Children aged 4-12 can participate in the school’s Summer Farm Camp where they’ll do “chores”, work in the gardens, participate in crafts and help maintain the farm.

Blue Label Becoming Burger Joint?

May 2011

By biteclub

Just five months after opening, dinner service at Blue Label at the Belvedere is being overhauled. En route to buy a pre-loved corduroy sofa and coffee tables for the eclectic Santa Rosa dining room, owner Bill Cordell said he has temporarily closed the nighttime restaurant (the cafe remains open for breakfast and lunch) with plans to reopen by May 20.

“We’re cutting out the fine dining thing and getting back to the burgers I want to do,” said Cordell, who also owns Superburger on Fourth St. in Santa Rosa.

It’ s not like the homespun meatloaf, pies and rabbit stew on the opening menu were exactly sniffy haute cuisine, but favorable critical reviews and an eager public quickly clouded Cordell’s original vision for the restaurant — a chummy burger and brews kind of joint. “This restaurant needs Zeppelin on the turntable,” he said. “And I don’t want people telling me to turn it down. Or ask to put on jazz,” he added.

So, with opening chef Miriam Donaldson (of Humble Pie) and partner Josh Norwitt shifting gears to the run daily breakfast and lunch operations at Cafe Blue Label, Cordell is synching up the evening bar menu downstairs with the restaurant menu upstairs.

Currently, he’s tossing around ideas like a burger topped with duck & hoisin or a Polynesian-inspired burger; a large appetizer menu (Mediterranean meatballs, sweet potato tots, everything-but-the-kitchen-sink potato skins; and possibly a moussaka); while keeping favorites like mashed potatoes, meatloaf, fried chicken and pork chops. “It’s a condiments on the table place,” he said, adding that there will be six specialty beers on tap.

Donaldson, Norwitt and Cordell will continue to day part the space.

Blue Label at the Belvedere and Cafe Blue Label Cafe: 727 Mendocino Ave., Santa Rosa, 542-8705.

Wednesday Night Market report

May 2011

By biteclub

For years, Santa Rosa’s Wednesday night Downtown Market has been an incubator for new food businesses. In it’s 2011 debut, that tradition seems to be continuing.

Though some areas of the sprawling evening market between Mendocino and E St. seemed a bit sparse on opening night, new faces including Seoul Food TaKorea (a Korean Taco bar), Not Your Momma’s Granola and Sonoma Hot Cones were a welcome sight.

Owners at TaKorea said that they’re testing the concept for a fusion of Korean bbq and tacos at the market in hopes of opening a restaurant in Santa Rosa in the near future. The sweet beef nestled inside corn tacos was a definite winner. The most fascinating concept was Sonoma Hot Cones — sweet and savory fillings piled inside crunchy waffle cones.

The pulled pork with coleslaw is stuffed into a savory cone, which makes for a filling meal that’s travel-ready during the market. We were hooked. Other flavors include Spicy Thai green curry spaghetti and meatballs and apple crisp.

Familiar food favorites were also at the market, including Street-Eatz, Harvey’s Mini Donuts, Rosso Pizzeria, Willie Bird Turkey legs and California Thai.

Santi closed?

May 2011

By biteclub

UPDATE: A phone message from a man claiming to be owner Doug Swett confirmed that the restaurant was shuttered. BiteClub has still not been able to reach Swett or Chef Richey for details about the closure.

+++++++

News that Santi restaurant in Fountaingrove has closed is rippling through the food community.

Though the details remain sketchy a sign on the window states that the restaurant is closed due to a fire. But insiders say the staff was let go on Tuesday and many in the restaurant biz knew that the restaurant had been on COD (cash on delivery) status with at least some of its purveyors for several months. Money troubles are suspected.

It’s unfortunate, because the restaurant flourished in Geyserville for more than 10 years, but in 2010 when the restaurant relocated it faced some serious hurdles — a held up liquor license, then a parking lot hubub with disgruntled Fountain Grove neighbors and finally, early this year, the departure of longtime executive chef, Liz Hinman. Hinman’s successor, Doug Richey, took over this year. The young and talented chef has plenty to offer, and will hopefully reappear elsewhere soon.

Food a focus at forthcoming XXV

May 2011

By biteclub

Though XXV Cafe & Lounge in Santa Rosa isn’t slated to open until mid-summer, the menu is well underway.

The still-unfinished space’s Executive Chef John Lyle told BiteClub he’s dreaming of summer strawberries from Nancy Skall’s Middleton Farm for strawberry ice cream and berries he’ll call “The Best Strawberries You’ve Ever Had.” Not to mention the tomatoes from Healsdburg’s Mix Farm or a grilled cheese made with Bellwether Farms’ Carmody cheese.

Currently a top toque at Lisa Hemenway’s Fresh, Lyle will soon be doing double duty at the all-day cafe featuring seasonal, farm-centric soups, salads and sandwiches in Courthouse Square.

What else to look forward to? A back to basics Caesar, Grilled Cheese menu, breads from Petaluma’s Della Fattoria, local wines and beer and plenty of farm-fresh produce.

“It’s not fussy food. It’s what we’re actually eating here in Sonoma,” said Lyle.’ It’s truly the type of food I cook and eat.”

Lyle said owner and interior designer Kendrick Rustad’s plans are for a modern lounge space with luxurious food, art and entertainment space for everything from brunches to movie nights and an upscale gathering spot.

Stay tuned for more details…

Catelli’s Restaurant on DDD

May 2011

By biteclub

Nearly 200 people packed in Catelli’s Restaurant in Geyserville last night as the Italian eatery made it’s television debut on The Food Network’s Diners, Drive-ins and Dives.

“We had a random person who saw the show call within 10 minutes and make a reservation. We’re excited to see what happens,” said Domenica Catelli, who is both chef and owner.

How did it come about? Co-owner (and brother)Nicholas worked for host Guy Fieri for more than a decade as cook, bartender and eventually manager of Johnny Garlic’s and Tex Wasabi’s. “It was really nice of him to consider us, considering we’re neither a diner, drive-in or dive,” Catelli said.

Fieri, who filmed in December, called the Catelli’s family ravioli’s some of the best he’d ever eaten. Rolled paper-thin, Chef Domenica showed viewers that you could even read the paper (which happened to be a Press Democrat) through the dough. Other family recipes on the menu include made to order meatballs sliders, Nonnie’s minestrone, local lamb, burgers and the family’s secret sauce.

If the name sounds familiar, it’s because the Catelli’s have a long Sonoma County history, having debuted in it’s current home in the 1936. Known as “The Rex”, the homestyle Italian eatery endured until the mid-1980s (the family was not involved in a namesake restaurant in Healdsburg). Santi, which relocated to Santa Rosa in 2010. Shortly after the move, Domenica and brother Nicholas re-opened the restaurant after buying the building from their father.

Well-known in the food world for her expertise on healthy and organic cooking, the Catelli’s source locally and organically

“We always dreamed of coming back,” said Domenica.

Catelli’s, 21047 Geyserville Ave., Geyserville, (707) 857-3471

Rosso Mozzarella Bar

May 2011

By biteclub

Rosso Pizzeria and Wine Bar’s John Franchetti is something of a mozzarella guru.

Since opening the restaurant, he’s become legendary for the creamy, freshly pulled cheese served daily at the pizzeria and at various farm stands around the county. He teaches classes at Relish Culinary (see upcoming classes)on the art of curd pulling, as well as making this creamy Italian cheese (which is harder to make than you might think).

In preparation for the opening of the cheese-focused Rosso Pizzeria that will soon open in Petaluma, the Santa Rosa outpost has added Mozzarella Bar to the menu, featuring the cheese in it’s many forms: as the cream-centered burrata, stuffed with goat curd, as stracciatella (shreds of mozzarella) or shaved on bruschette.

Heaven in dairy form.

Rosso Pizzeria + Wine Bar:53 Montgomery Dr, Santa Rosa, 544-3221

WiFi, Wine, & Jazz On The Plaza

May 2011

By biteclub

You know those tools at your local coffee shop, the ones that holler into their iPhones while holding court at that prime table over by the window, and generally behave as if the place is a private office? Well, hopefully I’m not one of them, because, surely, I’m not without sin. The thing of it is, I work out of a home office, and that turns island fever into an occupational hazard; it’s a matter of when, not if, I meander inexorably toward the nearest watering hole for the vaguely self-employed, in search of caffeine and a free WiFi connection, entangled by their gravitational clutch like a planetary body in search of its sun…

I live in Healdsburg, where you can count the freebie hotspots on one hand. Which means, more often than not, when I feel compelled to escape the moronic drone of the talking heads over at CNBC or Fox Business, I end up at the Flying Goat, purveyors of outstanding espresso (which, to the Goat’s undying credit, they serve ristretto by default).

But sometimes, my partners on the East Coast have all gone home, it’s a gorgeous Sunday afternoon in wine country and I’m off the clock, or for whatever set of reasons I’m just plain done, and what I really want is a sip of some tasty wine to wash down my Internet addiction, and that’s when I head down the block to to the Vintage Wine Estates tasting room, home to cozy couches, fast and free WiFi, a particularly smoking-hot Chardonnay from Sonoma Coast Vineyards, and – on the second Sunday of every month – sweet jazz from guys like local guitar wizard, Christian Foley-Beining. In fact, now that I mention it, I’ll be there next Sunday, so come on by and dig it.

Rendez Vous Bistro | Santa Rosa

May 2011

By biteclub

Steak Frites at Rendez Vous Bistro in Santa Rosa

Restaurant redemptions are rarer than a $2 steak. Which makes discovery all the sweeter.

In its first eighteen months, Santa Rosa’s Rendez Vous Bistro (which opened in March of 2009) was the source of significant Net chatter –– some quite unflattering. Despite a major interior revamp, the restaurant publicly struggled with uneven service and an inconsistent kitchen. Owner Nino Rabbaa, who sunk much of his own wealth into the venture, persevered at the central Santa Rosa location bolstered by a convenient location, a large and sunny outdoor space, a vibrant bar scene and a serviceable if not impressive food.

Earlier this year things began to turn around with the hiring of Chef de Cuisine Matthew Karson, a Santa Rosa native (and SRJC culinary grad) who spent time in the haute SF kitchen of Aqua and several local restaurant restaurants before landing at Rendez Vous. Bringing youthful ambition and high-end French technique to Rabbaa’s bistro classics, the two seem to have finally cracked the code. The menu is now approachable enough for workaday lunchers but with enough carefully-tuned details to impress the dining out crowd.

“Like a fine wine, with age we get better,” said Rabbaa, who plans to open a second eatery, a high end burgery in Santa Rosa this summer.

Though there are still missteps (desserts never quite hit the mark and when Karson isn’t in the kitchen, it can show), the restaurant seems to have found solid footing to build on. With a crowded playing field of top-notch French bistros in Sonoma County, the bar is set high. But if Rendez Vous can continue to match friendly service, kitchen talent and well-priced Parisian fare in its highly-trafficked downtown space, BiteClub can honestly say: Restaurant redeemed.

What to Eat
Dip Your Toe: BiteClub’s first foray back was Rendez Vous’ weeknight prix-fixe dinner served Monday through Thursday from 5-9:30. Three solid courses included a classic beef-broth French Onion Soup, meltingly delicious wine-braised Beef Bourguignon with creamed potatoes and haricots verts and a mini Crepe Suzette. Impressively plated and generously portioned, it was a meal that made me rethink the restaurant.

Small Bites: Happy Hour and late night, Rendez Vous serves up bar bites well into the night including truffled pommes frites, a petite tuna tartar, polenta fries, and sliders. Plus, a nifty specialty cocktail menu with gimlets, mojitos, and margaritas from $7 to $9. Sunday through Thursday 3-6pm and 9-12am; Friday and Saturday, 3-6pm, 10pm to 2am.

Go For It: Kobe Beef Steak Frites ($24.25) is a lush strip of Snake River steak, truffled butter and celery root slaw with crispy fries. Liberty Farms Duck Confit is one of the most ambitious and delicious dishes, with crispy skin, white beans and shaved fennel ($18.50); Tuna Tartare ($14.50) has gone through a number of evolutions, including pear, almonds and other flavors, but might best be left to let the fish speak for itself; Pan-Seared Sustainable Salmon ($19.50) shows off artichoke frites, melted leeks and smoked tomato foam (a Karson favorite); Seared Sonoma Foie Gras: Lush, indulgent with dried cherries and watercress, along with a Champagne gastrique ($16.50)

Crepes: Sweet or savory, Rabbaa has definite ideas about how a crepe should be — slightly crispy and not made with buckwheat flour. Loaded with fillings, they’re a slightly more American-friendly version made with white flour. Savories include duck confit with béchamel; ham, Gruyere and spinach with a fried egg, shredded chicken with olive tapenade and mushroom with Mornay and white truffle oil. Sweet Suzette’s are solid, if slightly sweet, but I have to question the “Aurelie” a frozen crepe filled with Oreo cookies and ice cream — mon dieu.

Aioli: I’ve told the story a thousand times, but it bears repeating. On one of the first nights of Rendez Vous opening, I asked for aioli with my fries (notch) and was given a ramekin of olive oil with garlic in it by a confused waiter. Not cool at a French bistro. The restaurant now has three different types of aioli: Plain, basil and white truffle.

Rendez Vous Bistro: 614 4th St., Santa Rosa, 526-7700.

> MORE FRENCH RESTAURANTS