UPDATE: What an amazing event. So many incredible lemon dishes…too many to even taste fully.I look forward to getting some of the recipes to share!
Best in Show: Rosemary Meyer Lemon Tart
Best Sweet: Meyer Lemon Butter Cookies
Best Savory: Moroccan Meyer Lemon Tangine Shortribs
Deep in the heart of citrus season, Meyer lemons — you know, those gourmet lemons we grow here in Northern California that taste like a cross between a mandarin orange and a lemon — hang heavy on trees throughout the county.
What to do? Celebrating the tart bounty, Blue Label at the Belvedere’s Miriam Donaldson hosts the first annual Meyer Lemon Cookoff on Monday, February 21, 2011. Anyone’s eligible to enter, but ACTUAL entries must be in by high noon (727 Mendocino Ave, Santa Rosa). Here are some inspirations from the LA Times — 100 things to do with Meyer Lemons. (Sorry if I wasn’t clear before, but you gotta actually make the recipe and bring the completed entry by for judging).
A bevy of foodie judges (including BiteClub) will pucker up and name the Meyer lemoniest winners in the Sweet, Savory and Best of Show category. And from personal experience, I can tell you that Miriam’s contests are always a rockin’ hoot (check out my daughter’s winning Lunchbox Pie recipe).
Judging begins at 2pm and the party lasts until 4pm. Prizes and street cred to be awarded.
It was late last year, on one of those December days as bright and crisp as a good apple, when I first heard that The New York Times Company was about to be dropped from the S&P 500 like a bad habit, in order to make room for Netflix. Hark! The death of Old Media! The herald angel of New Media sings! gushed the commentator on NPR. Which is all true, of course, and the symbolism of the event – a company that made money by printing hard news since 1851 getting its butt kicked by a company that makes far more money streaming videos – so neatly captures our post-industrial zeitgeist that one can’t help but take notice.
The thing is, date-stamped so late in the decade, that moral strikes me as tedious, and almost certainly past its sell-by date; the real story in media is what happens next. But frankly I’m much more interested in food than media theory, and so it wasn’t until I came across Michael Pollan’s Out of the Kitchen, Onto the Couch that I started to see a reflection of our vintage-2011 American life in this little story of Netflix and the Times, a life considerably more devoted to watching people cook on TV than actually cooking:
The Food Network can now be seen in nearly 100 million American homes and on most nights commands more viewers than any of the cable news channels… But here’s what I don’t get: How is it that we are so eager to watch other people browning beef cubes on screen but so much less eager to brown them ourselves? For the rise of [the celebrity chef] as a figure of cultural consequence has, paradoxically, coincided with the rise of fast food, home-meal replacements and the decline and fall of everyday home cooking…
What is wrong with this picture?
In some ways, the answer to Mr Pollan is, “nothing”; if you don’t think you live a longer, more productive life because of industrialized food production, go try hunting and gathering this weekend, and let me know how it turns out. But that’s hardly the whole answer because, as Mr Pollan argues at length, the costs – to our bodies, our families, our environment, and even our aesthetics – are real, and rising. So what has that got to do with movies and newspapers?
Look, I like movies. I like newspapers. I even like that I can warm up a frozen pizza, when I don’t have time to cook. But I also believe that we’re making some questionable choices about how we spend our time, and that the consequences may be profound. I’m sure we’ve all seen the BLS data in one form or another, but it bears repeating: We’re awake for an average of 15 hours a day. Within that 15 hours – what I would call our lives – our two most time-intensive activities are working (3.5 hours) and watching television (3 hours). No other single category comes close, although we do spend about an hour and a quarter consuming food and drink. Actual food preparation – which includes, rightly or wrongly, microwaving pizza pockets as well as washing the dishes – comes in at a mere 32 minutes, 24 seconds, or about half of an episode of Top Chef. And reading? I suppose it’s telling that reading no longer warrants a line in the survey.
Rustic at Francis Ford Coppola winery in Geyserville
Celebrate the delicious good fortune of living in Wine Country February 21-27 as local chefs to put their best plates forward during Sonoma County Restaurant Week.
Now in its second year, it’s a week long eat-fest with nearly 100 county restaurants participating. Three-course prix fixe menus are set at $19, $29 or $39, with each restaurant choosing it’s own price point.
The dining kicks off on Monday, and there are no tickets or passes required. Just head out for whatever sounds good. There are some tasty deals to be found, along with some ambitious menus from chefs who want to see you come back. Reservations are recommended, especially on busy weekend nights.
For more details and menus check out the Sonoma County Restaurant Week website at sonomacountyrestaurantweek.org. (Note, the site has been timing out and painfully slow most of the day, ugh!)
Here are some spots to check out…I’ll be updating this page throughout the next 10 days or so, adding thoughts, menus, etc.
New at the Table
What’s new? These restaurants have either made a recent Sonoma County debut or have something new to offer (like a new chef in the kitchen). Consider giving them a first look.
Geyserville Rustic, $39:A bit of a haul from Santa Rosa, Francis Ford Coppola’s winery restaurant was well worth the wait. The menu is inspired by family recipes and his travels around the world, and the views are breathtakingly spectacular. On the RW menu, french fried zucchini, the popular chicken mattone, New York strip steak, pizza Sofia and the dreamy chocolate mousse al “Francis Francis’. 300 Via Archimedes, Geyserville, (707) 857-1485
Catelli’s, $19, $29: This longtime Italian restaurant recently took up residence in Geyserville in the former Santi space. The $19 menu features a 10-layer lasagna and sourdough bread pudding; the $29 menu a white-wine, garlic and rosemary chick or grilled tri-tip. 21047 Geyserville Ave, Geyserville, 857-3471.
Blue Label (Jeff Kan Lee/PD)
Santa Rosa Blue Label at the Belvedere, $29:There’s plenty of buzz around this funky comfort food eatery from the former Humble Pie crew. The far-from-stodgy vibe includes a toasty fireplace, record player and buffalo-head mascot. To eat: Meyer lemon & basil salad; soda pop lamb (slow braised shoulder with cheesy grits) or vegetarian-friendly buckwheat crepes and veggies; candied kumquats and vanilla ice cream. 727 Mendocino Ave., Santa Rosa, 542-8705.
Santi, $29: The departure of longtime chef Liza Hinman has put longtime sous Doug Richey in the driver’s seat. The RW lineup includes antipasti, sugo Calabrese with spaghettini, lemon tart. 2097 Stagecoach Rd., Santa Rosa, 528-1549.
Fresh By Lisa Hemenway, $19, $29: Part marketplace, part cafe, local food personality Lisa Hemenway never disappoints. $19 menu: Organic greens; meatloaf and mashed potatoes or pot pie; $29 menu includes baked brie with garlic jalapeno pepper jelly, grilled salmon or skirt steak, lemon pie. 5755 Mountain Hawk Dr., Santa Rosa.
Healdsburg
Cocktails at Spoonbar
SpoonBar, $29: Ultra-mod dining at the h2hotel, Chef Rudy Mihal’s brick chicken with lemon and couscous rarely fails to impress. Don’t miss a cocktail from drink-whiz Scottie Beattie as long as you’re there. Kobe beef shortribs, pork terrine, California sea bass, brick chicken, gnocchi with duck ragout, flourless chocolate torte. 219 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, 433-7222.
Baci Cafe & Wine Bar, $29: Pizzas and straightforward Italian faves quickly made this a local hangout. Arugula salad, veal saltimbocco and tiramisu. 336 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, 433-8111.
Sebastopol French Garden, $39: A new exec chef seems to finally have this Sebastopol sleeper on track. Sunchoke bisque, grilled Creekstone sirloine with roasemary roasted potatoes, riccota gnocchi with black truffle butter, hazelnut cake with chocolate mousse, passion fruit coulis. 8050 Bodega Ave., Sebastopol, 824-2030.
Peter Lowell’s, $19:This sustainable restaurant has a new chef in the kitchen and a more inclusive menu to please veggie and meat lovers alike. Citrus salad with yogurt mint vinaigrette, thin crust Neopolitan pizza, shepherd’s pie with local ground beef, carrots, onions and mashed potatoes, chocolate budino. 7385 Healdsburg Ave, Sebastopol, 829-1077.
Under the Radar
These aren’t your usual suspects. Neighborhood or off-the-beaten path restaurants worth checking out.
Glen Ellen Inn, $19: Artichoke and Stilton ravioli, chocolate mousse; $29 grilled romaine salad, mussels with garlic fries, housemade vanilla sundae. 13670 Arnold Dr., Glen Ellen, 996-6409.
Bruno’s On Fourth, $29:Harry’s clam chowder, wedge salad with applewood smoked bacon; Dungeness crab fettucine, Niman ranch chicken parmesan, meatloaf with mashed potatoes. 1226 Fourth St., Santa Rosa, 569-8222.
Seared Ahi Tuna Won Tons at Charley's
Charlie’s at the Windsor Golf Course, $29: Mostly a clubby, business-lunch sort of spot, there’s clearly some major ambition in the kitchen. Green chile and roasted corn polenta; roasted garlic flatbread with fig jam; honey and lemon brined buttermilk fried chicken, pork chops, gnocchi with Andoille sausage; fried cheesecake, crepes with Grand Marnier strawberry compote. 1320 19th Hole Dr, WIndsor, 838-8802.
Affronti, $19:Tucked off the plaza, this cozy little wine bar is going all out with a three course menu with creative dishes including steamed clams and chorizo; heirloom squash soup; polpettone (kind of like meatloaf) sliders; three cheese lasagna; saffron panna cotta or a sundae with cabernet chocolate sauce. 235 Healdsburg Ave., Suite 105, Healdsburg, 431-1113.
Kenwood Restaurant & Bar, $29: French onion soup; duck spring rolls; cranberry glazed pork tenderloin; beef bourguigon with mashed potatoes; flourless Swiss chocolate cake with raspberry coulis. 9900 Sonoma Hwy, Kenwood, 833-6326.
Village Inn & Restaurant, $19: Tasty choices for a great price include roasted sweet potato bisque; garlic tiger prawns on polenta cake; pinot noir braised beef short ribs. 20822 River Rd, Monte Rio, 865-2304.
And a Few Just Plain Mouthwatering Menus: John Ash & Co, $39: Roasted heirloom beets, fried tuna sashimi, zinfandel braised short ribs with mac and cheese gratin, pan seared black cod, dark chocolate cake with salted caramel buttercream.
Rendez Vous Bistro, $29: Balsamic braised pork belly with seared foie gras, red pepper bisque with Dungeness crabmeat, pan seared escolar, beef Bearnaise, homemade artichoke ravioli, chocolate pot de creme, petit crepe Suzette.
Chinois, $29: Panko prawns with wasabi honey mayo, pork shu mai, lemongrass prawns, five spice short ribs, coconut mango panna cotta.
Bistro 29, $29: Local oyster on the half shell, tart Flamiche with leeks, lobster bisque, beef daube with marble potatoes, local snapper with artichokes, creme caramel with strawberry compote.
+++++
All Restaurants Participating in Restaurant Week, February 21-28, 2011
Bodega Bay
Bay View Restaurant & Lounge, $29
The Duck Club, $39
Geyserville
Rustic Francis’s Fravorites, $39
Center Stage Bar & Grill at River Rock, $19, $29, $39
Catellis Restaurant, $19, $29
Glen Ellen
fig cafe and winebar, $29
Glen Ellen Inn, $19, $29
Guerneville
Applewood Inn, $39
Healdsburg Bear Republic Brewpub, $19
Barndiva, $39
Baci Cafe & Wine Bar, $29
Bistro Ralph, $39
Zin, $29
A Divine Affair, $29
SpoonBar, $29
Affronti Wine Bar & Restaurant, $19
Dry Creek Kitchen, $39
Kenwood
Cafe Citti, $19
Kenwood Restaurant and Bar, $29
Monte Rio
Village Inn & Restaurant, $19
Occidental
Bistro Des Copains, $29
Petaluma
Graffiti, $39
Mary’s Pizza Shack, $19
Le Bistro, $29
Tres Hombres, $19
Tolay at Sheraton Hotel, $39
Cattlemens, $29
Pazzo, $29
Dempsey’s Restaurant & Brewery, $19
Rohnert Park
Mary’s Pizza Shack, $19
Hana Japanese, $29
Bacchus Restaurant & Wine Bar, $29
Santa Rosa
Fresh By LIsa Hemenway, $19, $29
Union Hotel, $19
El Coqui Puerto Rican, $19
La Vera Pizza, $19
Cafe Europe, $19
Cafe Portofino, $29
Bruno’s on Fourth, $29
Jackson’s Bar & Oven, $29
Sea Thai Bistro, $29
Sam’s for Play, $19
Santi, $29
Blue Label at the Belvedere, $29
Legends at the Bennett Valley Golfcourse, $19
Equus, $29
Viola Pastry Boutique and Cafe, $19
Brasserie Restaurant & Lounge, $29
Mary’s Pizza Shack, $19
Nonni’s Ristorante Italiano, $29
Monti’s Rotisserie and Bar, $29
La Gare, $29
Jack and Tony’s Restaurant & Whisky Bar, $29
Checkers Bistro & Wine Bar, $29
Ca Bianca, $29
Cattlemens, $29
Rendez Vous Bistro, $29
Johnny Garlic’s, $29
The Villa, $19
Bistro 29, $29
Nectar Restaurant, $29
John Ash & Co, $39
Zazu Restaurant & Farm, $39
Stark’s Steakhouse, $39
Syrah Bistro, $39
SIzzling Tandoor, $19
Riviera, $29
Sebastopol
Mary’s Pizza Shack, $19
Hopmonk Tavern, $29
Henweigh Cafe, $19
Starlight Wine Bar & Restaurant, $29
Peter Lowell’s, $19
GTO Seafood, $29
French Garden, $39
Pizzavino 707, $19
Sonoma
Della Santina Trattoria, $29
Hopmonk Tavern, $29
Saddles Steakhouse, $19
Mamma Tanino’s Ristorante, $29
LoKal, $39
Epicurean Connection, $19
Mary’s Pizza Shack, $19
Big Three, $119
Sante at the Fairmont, $39
Meritage Martini and Oyster Bar & Grille, $29
Harvest Moon Cafe, $29
Cafe La Haye, $29
Estate, $29
Carneros Bistro and Wine Bar, $39
Girl and the Fig, $29
Valley Ford
Rocker Oysterfeller’s, $29
Windsor
Bistro M, $29
Chinois Asian Bistro, $29
Ume Japanese Bistro, $29
Mary’s Pizza Shack, $19
Charlie’s at Windsor Golf Course, $29
Johnny Garlic’s, $29
Marcus Haizlip, general manager at the new Five Guys Burger and Fries in Santa Rosa takes the order of Alissa De La Riva, Feb. 15, 2011 | Crista Jeremiason, PD
BiteClub winners chow at Five Guys | Crista Jeremiason, PD
Though the night was rainy and cold, five BiteClubbers braved the elements, the hoards and threats of impending indigestion to get the skinny on Five Guys Burgers and Fries, Santa Rosa’s first outpost of this east coast, Obama-favorite.
What we do, we do for you.
At the Five Guys table, a very pregnant Jennifer (to gauge the restaurant’s crave-worthiness); Chef Evan for the culinary worthiness; burger aficionado (and former Fair Food Scrambler) Jason; and Alissa, a woman who once ate burgers for 16 days in a row. Plus BiteClub and BiteClub Jr.
It takes a village to judge a burger, so we put our heads together to come up with a handy guide for all you Five Guys newbies (and oldies)…
What’s the Deal with this Place?
The first of a possible five new Five Guys restaurants in Sonoma County, the chain is spreading like wildfire across the nation (200 are slated to open in 2011). Local owner and Ohio native Craig Gallagher and four other investors leapt at the chance to snap up Sonoma County, one of the last counties in America to have franchises available. Petaluma may have the next opening, along with plans for at least one other Santa Rosa location.
Making your burger | Crista Jeremiason, PD
What To Order
The DC-based company prides itself on its fresh-baked buns, single-sourced fries (you can see the farm they came from on the board) made fresh and personalized burgers, offering up 15 different toppings ranging from mayo and lettuce to jalapenos and grilled mushrooms. Burgers aren’t started until you order, and wait time is typically about 7-8 minutes — hence the peanuts to tide you over. Burgers run a$4.99 for a double and $3.69 for a single. Unlike In N Out, Five Guys offers up split, griddle cooked hot dogs starting at $3.59. Fries are thickly cut and generously served, skin-on ($2.59 small, $4.69 large). Cajun-spiced fries are a best bet and pickles absolutely make the burger.
So, are the burgers as great as fans claim them to be?
Big, messy and squishy describe these burgers. The homemade buns are Wonder bread soft but are prone to disintegration. Things get pretty messy the more toppings you add. Go “All the Way” (an order for all the toppings) and you’ll end up with most of it on your lap, napkins and the foil paper wrapper — though you can sop it up with the fries, like we did. Said Jason, “This is definitely a multiple napkin experience!” Overall, the group was thumbs up on the whole Five Guys vibe, loved the ability to personalize the burgers and proclaimed the fries much better than In-N-Out.
Which speaks to the inevitable comparisons to our favorite Left Coast burger chain.
The Inevitable Comparison
1. No, there’s no secret menu or special sauce
2. Yes, the fries are way better
3. Yes, they have free peanuts and you can throw the shells on the ground
4. Nope, they don’t have milkshakes
5. Yes, their hot dogs totally rock
6. Yes, prices are a bit higher than In N Out. You’ll spend about $10 for a meal here.
7. No, there’s no drive through.
8. Yes, the staff is just as clean-cut and friendly.
The Feast!
BiteClubbers Final Say Jennifer: “The smell really drew me in.” Her plusses: The grilled, split hot dog with cheese. The minus: “The sauce at In & Out is better.” Crave worthiness: Moderate. Would she come back? “Yes.”
Evan: “The fries have sort of a cottage fry quality. They’re definitely bigger and better than In N Out’s soggy shoestrings.” The group unanimously decided, however, to order the fries extra crispy next time. The plusses: The range of condiments is great and I like the ballpark style hot dogs. Culinary worthiness: “I like it, but I’m a soggy burger kind of guy.” Come back? Yes.
Jason: “The buns are just great.” The plusses: Love the fresh jalapenos and pickles. The minus: I like my onions sliced. Burger Brilliance: “The patties don’t have much seasoning. They’re really fresh, but just not seasoned enough.” Come back? Yes.
Alissa: “I would definitely come back for the dog,” which she ordered with cheese, ketchup, mustard, hot sauce and pickles. Return? Yes. Sixteen times? Possible.
Heather: I loved the “All the Way” cheeseburger with crisp bacon and lettuce, grilled onions, mushrooms and chilled mayo and pickles. The burger itself was, frankly, unremarkable, but the soft bun and top-notch toppers (especially the pickle!) made for a memorable eating experience. Minus: I hate well-done burgers, and all their burgers are cooked well-done. Return: BiteClub Jr. insists.
Five Guys Burgers and Fries: 2280 Mendocino Ave., Santa Rosa, Open daily at 11am.
Thanks to all my BiteClub eaters, everyone who entered, PD Photog Crista Jeremiason for the amazing pictures (though I will note that the cool fish eye lens seems to have added a hump back to me…haha) and Five Guys Burgers and Fries!
Frank and Ernie’s is the restaurant that no one and everyone is talking about.
Situated just outside the carefully manicured bubble of Healdsburg’s downtown tourist zone, there’s no glitzy advertising or chef-driven menus to ponder in the window here. There is no website to consult for mission statements, produce pedigrees or artful photography. In fact, there’s no website at all. As night falls, the restaurant’s bare windows magnify the vehicular paparazzi of car headlights in the parking lot. Inside, harried bussers fold napkins in the entry while confused diners look around in vain for a hostess.
Heresy just blocks away, at Frank & Ernie’s there’s an unmistakable feeling that no one here is trying to impress you. And maybe that’s why locals weary of the nearby gastro-circus seem to love it.
Opened in late 2010, Frank and Ernie’s is, at face value, an old school steakhouse owned by a local guy, Ron Palmieri. Named for his father and uncle, the seemingly unremarkable restaurant has risen from the ashes of the old Western Boot. In the kitchen, Chef A. J. Lockwood (formerly of Safari West) turns out slabs of char-broiled sirloin, hangar, New York strip, rib eye, filet mignon, prime rib (Friday through Sunday) along with a couple of silly chest-beaters that top out at 24 ounces. Without a hint of irony, each comes with a baked potato, pilaf or fries; bbq beans and horseradish cream.
The rest of the menu is presented with an equally straight-face: Shrimp Scampi, Pan-Seared Halibut, Caeasar Salad, Onion Rings, Cheeseburgers, French Dip and Mud Pie. The word “classic” is used a lot. Regulars are honest about managing your expectations. “It’s just a locals place,” they say.
Shrimp Scampi at Frank & Ernie's
But here’s where unremarkable becomes something very remarkable. Without pretention or pomp, Frank & Ernie’s effortlessly gets right what so many other restaurants work hard to get completely wrong.
Why? First off, service is well-timed and efficient, even when the servers are up to their elbows in customers and balancing five plates on their arms. “I’ll be right with you,” is a mantra they live up to. The food isn’t life-changing, but without exception satisfying. Okay, the onion straws may be a little life-changing. The prices are exactly in line with the quality of the food: Appetizers running between $5 and $8, entrees around $18 and steaks between $16 and $30. The convivial atmosphere of winemakers, townies, shopkeepers makes for plenty of neighborliness and families are welcome. The wine list is local and refreshingly uninflated.
The result: People just seem to like it here. Says a Yelper, “Just what the doctor ordered – a locals joint. Frank and Ernie’s is exactly what Healdsburg needs.” Bottles of coveted wine sit on tables with nachos and ravioli. The ambient noise is from the bustling kitchen rather than a state of the art sound system. The bar is a promising alternative to the historically divey B&B Saloon, which too many Wine Country bachelorette parties seem to have found lately. Off-duty chefs drop by for Hawaiian short ribs and mercifully few picky tourists seem to find their way here.
Mud Pie at Frank & Ernie's
Exactly what Healdsburg needs. So now that you know about it, do us all a favor and keep it under your hat. Because Frank & Ernie’s is the kind of place insiders already know about. And outsiders don’t need to.
Frank & Ernie’s, 9 Mitchell Lane, Healdsburg, 433-2147. Open for lunch and dinner. Closed Tuesday.
Sometimes, it’s fun to see how much we can do, with how little. I could list the underlying moral imperatives – saving money and time would presumably occupy the penthouse suite – but in the main, I just think it’s plain fun, a sort of Sudoku with pots and pans.
Case in point: How do you feed 3 persnickety kids, using just 3 ingredients, in only 30 minutes? Why 3, 3, and 30? 3 kids, because I get my wife pregnant just by looking at her the wrong way; 3 ingredients in 30 minutes, because seemed a plausible benchmark for the real world; and because I’m capricious, and I say so.
You have a Niman Ranch bacon-wrapped pork chop that you bought at Costco for a bit under $7/lb; a half-full bag of heirloom Japanese rice in the cupboard, available at Safeway for around $8/5lb bag; and the Dwarf Navel Orange tree pictured at left, heavy with fruit the color of life jackets. You get 30 minutes to prepare a coherent plate of food for three young children, one of whom subsists on a diet of nothing but colorless carbohydrates, a range of milk fats, and salt. GO.
T-30. Under the gun, the main thing is triage: What needs to be done now, what can wait, how not to get behind. Generally, this means getting your pans hot – one for the chops, saucepan for the OJ – but if you’re making rice, that better get going, too. Nothing ruins a nice meal of pork chops with rice like no-rice. And turn the oven on.
T-25. Chops sizzle as they hit the pan, in a little butter, with a sprig of rosemary for aromatics. OJ, sugar and vinegar reducing in the saucepan. Rice not to be disturbed. Very little to do all of a sudden, so time to open the wine and get out the plates. (I’d probably serve this with a Viognier to pair with the lighter meat and the bright, fresh flavors of orange and rice wine vinegar).Once they develop a nice crust, turn the chops over, and stir the OJ mixture, just to feel productive (actually it’s to make sure it all incorporates).
T-15. Put the pan with the chops in the oven, checking the internal temperature. (You want to eat it close to 160F, so pull it a bit before then, giving it time to rest and continue cooking off the heat.) Check the consistency and seasoning of the sauce.
T-5. Strain sauce and season and fluff the rice. Just enough time to get it all on the plate and refill that wine glass.
T-0. Dinner: Pork chops, pan-roasted with rosemary from the garden, on a bed of gaijin-style sushi rice, and a drizzle of this nice home-grown Navel orange gastrique that I’ve pasted in over at the right, and which I wish I would have photographed without a cat toy in the background.
As to the recipe, I know a fair bit about eating sushi rice – done properly, which is to say almost never, sushi meshi requires the hand of an artisan and a delicate balance between temperature, texture, and seasoning – but almost nothing about cooking it, which is why I called mine gaijin style and invariably fall back on someone else’s simple recipe; a pan-roasted pork chop is self-explanatory, although I would emphasize the thermometer (well-done is inedible, and rare is dangerous); and the fresh orange gastrique, although it sounds like fancy footwork, is actually one of the quickest, easiest, and healthiest (a thickly textured, glossy sauce with no fat!) of sauces, and about which I drool ecstatic in this post from late last week. Don’t forget the wine!
Many local restaurants are banking on the Sunday supper — a fixed price family-style meal — to bring regulars back again and again for a hearty meal to start (or end) the week of right. From pot roast and meatloaf to prime rib or roast chicken, it’s all about comforting dishes that make us feel like we’re sitting around grandma’s table.
BiteClub’s on the hunt for the perfect Sunday meal, whether it’s one you create at home or one you eat out. Share your faves!
If there’s nothing else we’ve learned over the last few weeks, it’s that the weather in Wine Country is unpredictable and the mercury can be, well, mercurial.
Even if it starts to feel like spring again, there’s an 80 percent chance of needing to snuggle by the fire in February. Because whether there’s a rainy chill settling into your bones or you just want to capture the winter apres-ski vibe, Sonoma County has plenty of spots to cozy up, chow down and let the braised, steamy or sweater-wrapped feeling melt away your mid-winter blues.
Hot Chocolate
The standard-bearer for liquid warmth, it’s impossible not to become a kid again as you sport the inevitable whipped cream mustache and cup icy fingers around a steaming mug of cocoa. One marshmallow or two?
The Peppermint Patty, Warm Puppy Cafe: Sure, there may be fancier cups of hot chocolate in Sonoma County, but you’ll be hard-pressed to find a better one. Pull up a rink-side seat at Snoopy’s Home Ice and wrap your lips around one of these tasty concoctions. For a little added spice, order a Peppermint Patty, a hot chocolate with a splash of peppermint and peppermint sprinkles. Plus, staff are used to tiny tykes and get the temp just right for eager young sippers. 1667 West Steele Lane, Santa Rosa, 546-7147.
Aztec Hot Chocolate, Flying Goat: While coffee is their main game, The Flying Goat makes a mean Aztec Hot Chocolate. Spiced with cinnamon and chili this sweet-hot drink harkens back to chocolate’s Mexican origins as xocoatl, a bitter brew served to kings.10 Fourth St., Santa Rosa, 575.1202; 324 Center St., Healdsburg, 433.3599.
Mexican Hot Chocolate Ice Cream, Screaming Mimi’s: Like the Aztec hot chocolate, this ice cream has some sweet heat, cinnamon and spices to dress up plain old cocoa. 6902 Sebastopol Ave., Sebastopol, 823-5902.
Mexican Hot Chocolate and Savory Hand Pies, Petaluma Pie Shop: What could possibly be more warming on a cold and rainy day than a steaming cup of cocoa and a freshly baked hand-pie filled with mushrooms and cheese? The newly opened Petaluma Pie beckons with warm scent of buttery crusts and spice-dusted fruits. To wash it all down, a freshly-brewed cup of cocoa made from cacao paste, sugar and spice.
Fondue You can learn a lot about a person by sharing a pot of fondue. Do they yield generously, stab blindly or rudely leave behind chunks in the pot? Cheese to chocolate, it’s an exercise in communal communication.
Classic Swiss, Henweigh Cafe: Melted Gruyere and Emmentaler cheese for two with bread cubes and veggies to dip, and pineapple sausage a la carte, $28. 4550 Gravenstein Hwy North, Sebastopol, 829-7500.
Potato Skin “Fondue”, Stark’s Steakhouse: Grab your Lipitor, or you may not make it out of this one alive. A mound of fried, bite-sized potato pieces surround a molten pot of cheese. Topped with bacon. 521 Adams St., Santa Rosa, 546-5100.
Viva Cocolat, Chocolate Fondue: On Friday and Saturday nights, this Petaluma chocolatier offers fondue for two in milk, dark or white with an assortment of delectable dippables including strawberries, bananas, cake, marshmallows and more. Reservations suggested. 110 Petaluma Blvd, North, Petaluma, 778-9888.
A Warm Start Breakfast is the most important meal of the day, and coffee isn’t the best way to get those fires lit.
Polenta Porridge with Brown Sugar, Zazu: Saturday and Sunday brunch at this roadhouse restaurant start your morning right with tummy warmers like hearty polenta (a sort of cornmeal) porridge, freshly made donuts and cornmeal waffles with strawberries and maple cream. Pair with the world’s best affogato, a coffee-drenched dessert with cardamom gelato. 9am to 2:30pm, 3535 Guerneville Road
Santa Rosa, 523-4814.
Jeffrey’s Favorite, Jeffery’s Hillside Cafe: Former John Ash & Co. Chef Jeffrey Madura has switched gears, running a breakfast, brunch and lunchery with some of the best morning munches in Sonoma. Don’t miss his sauteed chicken livers with onions, mushrooms and pancetta, served with creamy chive scrambled eggs and county potatoes. 2901 Fourth St., Santa Rosa, 546-6317.
Fireplaces
Gather round the hearth at these winter warming spots. Cricklewood may be best known for its steaks, but the cozy fireplace lounge is a top pick for grabbing a cocktail (4618 Old Redwood Hwy, Santa Rosa, 527-7768). John Ash & Company’s Front Room Bar and Lounge is a stellar spot for happy hour cocktails, around the stone-cut fireplace. don’t miss Chef Thomas Schmidt’s nacho french fries; cheese burger and veal sausage dogs with housemade ketchup.4350 Barnes Rd., Santa Rosa, 575-7350.
Franco’s Ristorante: We’re huge fans of Franco’s for the home made focaccia bread, wood-fired pizzas and cozy backroom fireplace. This under-the-radar pizza and pasta spot rarely fails when it comes to warming pasta and braised-meat dishes. 505 Mendocino Ave, Santa Rosa, 523-4800.
Valentine’s day, sometime after 3pm, and I’ve got nada. No card, no candy, no flowers, no nothing. OK, that’s not entirely true, because we sloughed the kids off on the ‘rents yesterday, for just long enough to spend a bright and lazy Sunday afternoon canoodling over wine and chocolate, which surely counts for something.
The problem is, I’ve got a long and illustrious rap sheet as something of a Grinch on manufactured holidays, and I’m particularly poor at warm and fuzzy public declarations – had my bride and reverend not stood so close, they might have missed my whispered vows entirely, right along with the rest of our friends and family. And no matter what she says, no matter how completely she accepts my vinegary assessments of poetry and candle light, I know deep down in my toes that something is hoped-for, even if it’s not expected. And that I probably owe her that something, for far too many reasons to bother even mentioning.
So, having no adequate words of my own, and scant time to come up with much else, I’m stealing someone else’s; this one, Mr Stipe, goes out to the one I love (with thanks, for the assist):
[youtube mNBKM5so8tQ]
The chief risk in playing a song for your lover is, of course, that the lyrics may or may not actually say what you think they do, much less convey whatever it is that you meant:
This one goes out to the one I love
This one goes out to the one I’ve left behind
Another prop has occupied my time
This one goes out to the one I love
Fire (she’s comin’ down on her own, now)
Fire (she’s comin’ down on her own, now)
Did he leave her for another? That wouldn’t be very Valentines-ish. Or maybe it’s about his remorse for any moment, every moment, they’ve spent apart? And fire, what’s that about? I’m awful at making sense of these sorts of thing, but here is what I do know: He loves her and her alone, and he sings about it with the sort of voice that makes it feel as if some great fat bastard just sat on your chest. That, and my wife loves Michael Stipe, so I’m going with it.
Happy Valentine’s Day.
(By the way, if this sounds even remotely familiar, my advice is, quit your bitching and man-up, already. And in case you’re tempted to steal a page from my playbook, feel free, but save yourself some angst and check out this short compendium of classic love songs that aren’t.)
You’ll also hear this crowd’s vociferous insistence that the stuff will only be used in small quantities and will not be applied directly to the fruit, in case that makes you feel better; that line of argument did not, however, sway the 54 scientists and chemists who pleaded on the deaf ears of the Bush-era EPA when it conferred its Federal blessing:
Agents like methyl iodide are extraordinarily well-known cancer hazards in the chemical community. Because of methyl iodide’s high volatility and water solubility, broad use of this chemical in agriculture will guarantee substantial releases to air, surface waters, and ground water, and will result in exposures for many people.
I don’t know about you, but words like “guarantee”, “substantial”, and “exposure” make me nervous, at least when we’re talking about deadly poison. Granted, I’m a nervous Jew and prone to over-reaction, but I’ve got company, from American Public Media to The Atlantic, because it only gets worse when you confront the hard data: The legal limits for exposure as set by the DPR are on the order of 1oo times the “safe” levels as determined by the DPR’s own scientists.
Reasonable people might wonder how this all happened, in plain view of otherwise sane strawberry eaters everywhere. As environmental studies professor and blogger Envo explains, much of the blame lies with the process itself, the asymmetric force of the few on the levers of governance, the willful ignorance of DPR director Mary-Ann Warmerdam, and our misguided moral certitude about the sanctity of farmers’ wallets; collectively, they support a regulatory calculus in which the henhouse is beholden entirely to foxes. But the backstory, which you won’t get from the PC Elite, is nearly as troubling, another unintended consequence of our monolithic endorsement of whatever sounds most “green” at the moment; an inconvenient truth perhaps, but the door to MeI was initially flung open, not by chemical companies or farm lobbyists, but by the mandated phaseout of the ozone-depleting pesticide methyl bromide, in accordance with the Clean Air Act and the Montreal Protocol. As the Cornell Extension Toxicology Network explains,
The methyl bromide phaseout is due to action under the Clean Air Act… [The] Clean Air Act does not contain a risk/benefit balancing process that would allow retention of essential or high benefit uses, nor does the listing and phaseout of ozone depleters depend on the availability of alternative products.
In other words, in all our well-meaning myopia, we rushed headlong into a deal with a devil we didn’t know, who – like, say, corn-based ethanol or bailout financing – has now come back to take a super-sized bite out of our strawberry-loving asses.
It’s not that our fully-paid-up government overseers have again failed us – that I cynically accept as the chronic inevitability of life in a bloated nanny state – it’s the brazenness with which they’ve done it, the wanton whoring to special interests at the expense of hard science and the humanity of those they ostensibly serve, that has me so riled. That they’ve done so aided and abetted by the economic illiteracy of the environmentalist agenda just makes me plain batty. [Note: Despite the “emergency” approval, fumigants are not typically applied during the winter months, so there may be a window of time during which either the EPA or Governor Brown can do something. Consider signing either this petition, or this.]
